Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss

What's the professional way of removing the belly/back plate?

196 views
Skip to first unread message

tho x. bui

unread,
Aug 10, 2007, 9:03:37 PM8/10/07
to
My amateur way is

1. use a sharp knife to score the varnish at the glue joint
2. apply heat with a small heating blanket to the whole plate for about
1/2 hour on the 'high' setting.
3. push in with a thin bladed sharp knife while simultaneously pray to
all the Gods that I have ever read/heard of that: (a) I don't destroy
anything beyond casual touch-up, and (b) don't slice off my precious
untalented musical fingers.
4. Work all the way around, continuing the praying procedure of step 3.

It works for the few times I tried the process, but my heart skip a beat
every time the glue goes 'snap.' That's every other inch for anyone who
has never done it. Needless to say, I would never, ever work on an
instrument that cost more than 100$!

What do the professional repair/restoration guys (jack H., et al) do?

Tho

Peter Schug

unread,
Aug 10, 2007, 10:43:31 PM8/10/07
to
in article JV7vi.79447$TW6....@newsfe06.phx, tho x. bui at
bla...@thoxbui.com wrote on 8/10/07 9:03 PM:

> What do the professional repair/restoration guys (jack H., et al) do?Right
>
> Tho
>
Right after I put my fiddle together (the first time) I discovered a need to
remove the top. I posted a message and got back advice from a long time
professional to just do it dry and ignore any noises.

My fiddle (freshly glued) sounded like the end of the world as I worked a
palette knife around the edges, but the top came off more or less perfectly
except for a few spinters here and there.

The other bit of advice I got is NEVER take the top and back off at the same
time unless I glue a sheet of cardboard onto whichever side I took off
first.

I only did it once, and the noise was impressive, but it is a contraption
designed for making noise so that is not surprising. It took me less than a
half an hour but I did start the opening with heat and moisture.

My palette knife goes from about 100th of an inch to about 1/16th in
thickness and averages about 1/2 inch wide.

One thing I definitly learned is why you glue the top on with very thin hide
glue!

Pete

Craig W

unread,
Aug 14, 2007, 10:51:49 PM8/14/07
to
I don't like using a sharp blade for this task as it will increase the
chance of cutting some wood instead of popping the old glue. I have a
thin blade but it isn't sharp. Just a word of caution that was given to
me in a workshop - don't start removing a plate at a C bout corner
because it my crack or break off. I've had good luck starting in the
middle of the lower bout and working toward the C bout.

Jack H.

unread,
Aug 16, 2007, 1:18:51 PM8/16/07
to

I generally look for an open seam to begin.
Using my openeing knife ( more of a wedge than a sharp edge although
it is sharper than a butterknife.
try to work from the inside out at the corners using your other hand
to apply counter pressure at the corners and to help controll the
blade so it does not slip.
if there is no open seal I have a cut off piece of a bass bar stock
that is padded ( 2.5 cm 1 cm adn as long as is comfortable ) I use
that and a hammer at gentle setting to shock open a seam. do it at the
lower bout where you are still in the same grain direction Use the
other hand to provide counterforce to you do not break anything.
The sound is interesting... CRACK.
You get used to it. so stop worrying.
Customers have heart attacks when they hear that. they get confused by
the casual face of the restorer!
THen they do not want to see what you are doing to their instrument
further.

at the upper and lower block work from the inside out.
sometimes some water from a syringe can get it all started.

Do not worry too much about the slivers.
They get glued on imediately!!! have some glue, small clamps and small
pieces of perspecs ready.

I would not use the heating pad, I have seen some varnished soften
under heat.

http://asmallapple.net/~violins/forums/
is a link to a violin forum with areas for makers/restorers both
amateur and pro and also musicians.

Hope this helps.
Jack Havivi
Havivi Violins
Israel

Peter Schug

unread,
Aug 16, 2007, 8:24:43 PM8/16/07
to
Havivi!

I bought my first viola da gamba strings (25 - 30 years ago) at a place
called Havivi violins on 57th St. NYC. Any relation?

Pete

in article 1187284731....@57g2000hsv.googlegroups.com, Jack H. at
jac...@gmail.com wrote on 8/16/07 1:18 PM:

Jack H.

unread,
Aug 17, 2007, 2:00:58 AM8/17/07
to
On Aug 17, 2:24 am, Peter Schug <PeteSc...@att.net> wrote:
> Havivi!
>
> I bought my first viola da gamba strings (25 - 30 years ago) at a place
> called Havivi violins on 57th St. NYC. Any relation?


Yeah that was my father's shop.
He passed away a few years ago at the age of 91 and a half.


I still have a bunch of gamba strings somewhere, let me know if you
need any.


Jack

Carl Witthoft

unread,
Aug 17, 2007, 3:54:16 PM8/17/07
to
In article <JV7vi.79447$TW6....@newsfe06.phx>,

"tho x. bui" <bla...@thoxbui.com> wrote:

Sounds about right for opening an iPOD :-)
(I tried once -- took 30 minutes of trying and cursing. Did succeed, no
cuts, no damage to me or the iPOD)

--
Team EM to the rescue! mailto:ca...@Team-EM.com http://www.team-em.com

Peter Schug

unread,
Aug 17, 2007, 6:42:30 PM8/17/07
to
in article 1187330458....@r29g2000hsg.googlegroups.com, Jack H. at
jac...@gmail.com wrote on 8/17/07 2:00 AM:

I recently got a gamba, but it is easier to get strings locally.

57th street is no longer a mecca for string players that it was back then. I
am sorry to hear about your father, but 91 is a pretty respectable age.

I guess the world of string players/dealers/enthusiasts is pretty small.

Your name brought back fond memories of starting out with something new and
exciting. Wendy Gillespie directed me to your father's shop and all these
years later I bought my gamba from her.

Pete

BestStudentViolins.com

unread,
Aug 18, 2007, 12:28:19 PM8/18/07
to
Sounds scary to me; you could always run over it with a bicycle.

Don't laugh; when I was at Rice they leant me a 30K Vuillaume and I
rode my bike to school, and fell off the bike at one point. But the
instrument was not damaged, luckily for me.


tho x. bui

unread,
Aug 20, 2007, 12:21:31 AM8/20/07
to
Jack H. wrote:
> On Aug 11, 3:03 am, "tho x. bui" <bla...@thoxbui.com> wrote:
>>My amateur way is
>>[snip]...

>>It works for the few times I tried the process, but my heart skip a beat
>>every time the glue goes 'snap.' That's every other inch for anyone who
>>has never done it...

>>What do the professional repair/restoration guys (jack H., et al) do?
>
> [snip]

> if there is no open seal I have a cut off piece of a bass bar stock
> that is padded ( 2.5 cm 1 cm adn as long as is comfortable ) I use
> that and a hammer at gentle setting to shock open a seam. do it at the
> lower bout where you are still in the same grain direction Use the
> other hand to provide counterforce to you do not break anything.
> The sound is interesting... CRACK.
> You get used to it. so stop worrying.

Thanks for the tips, jack; and thanks to all who replied.
I've built many instruments, but don't have a lot of opportunity (nor
desire) to do repairs. They are such different skills. Maybe one of
these days I'll be able to "get used to it."

Maybe I should buy an ebay special and practice taking it apart...

Tho

Peter Schug

unread,
Aug 20, 2007, 10:46:43 PM8/20/07
to
in article cF8yi.85843$kK1....@newsfe14.phx, tho x. bui at
bla...@thoxbui.com wrote on 8/20/07 12:21 AM:

Might be glued with epoxy! ; )

Pete

0 new messages