Goldemine Grading System (Part 1)
BackTrac45
INFORMATION SOURCE: GOLDMINE MAGAZINE
In Compiling this Q & A, the following people have
participated with vital information....
Susan Murray (NOD International Records)cyt...@ix.netcom.com
Fred Walker (Vinylonly) viny...@aol.com
Paula Major (Paula's House of Music) doow...@HUB.ofthe.NET (Paula),
Goldmine Grading System is copyrighted by Krause Ent and Goldmine.
Ammendments Copyright 1996 by Weldon T. Toms (Tim)
Any additional insight can be forwarded to
Tim at back...@aol.com for future updates
if needed. Grades listed will not be altered
or modified. The following grades defined
are those as listed with Goldmine magazine.
This is not to say that other grading systems
are not viable. This is the most mainstream
system used as compared to others that
are not. It is to be used only as a reference but
to keep in mind, that when grading, anyone
can choose alternative means to grading records,
as long as they can define the terms the use without
confusion.
FAQ: Compiled August 16th, 1996
========================================================
Goldmine Grading System Defined:Questions & Answers
========================================================
Questions in this section:
Q1: What is the Goldmine Grading System ?
Q2: How can I grade my own vinyl based on these grades?
========================================================
Answers:
Q1: What is the Goldmine Grading System ?
A1: The Goldmine Grading System was 1st created in the
early years of record collecting. These grades were
established from various other resources pertaining to
collecting (for example coin, book, comics, and card collecting)
Goldmine Magazine first published a grading scale in
1974. It has undergone changes through out the years, yet
has for the most part remained the same.
Remember! Two people may not come up with the same
grade for the same record. One person may feel a record
is MINT and another may say NM (Near Mint). After reading
the next part of this answer, perhaps you will be able to
identify each grade with out too much confusion, and
allow yourself to grade more conservitively (fairly).
Grade Scale with definitions of each grade:
==================================================
Q2: How can I grade my own vinyl based on these grades?
A2: Below is the grade scale and what you should look
for when assessing a grade for each record you have.
--------------------------------------------------------------
MINT or M : Perfect! A mint record should look like it has just
left the manufacturer, with NO flaws what so ever. It should
look as though it had never been handled.
No scuffs or scratches, blotches or stains. No stickers
address labels, writing on the covers or labels. No tears
or seam splits. No wear to the cover or record period!
Age of the record has nothing to do with it. A MINT record
from 1949 should look like a MINT record from 1996.
The number one complaint from collectors about grading
over the years, have been the deteriorating standards
that dealers and private sellers have had when grading.
It is only natural for most people to turn to the "MINT" grade
and read "highest prices" listed in price guides. Since most
price guides have a high and low price range, the assumed
grade most often is NOT mint, but near mint (NM).
MINT COVERS: Simply put, a mint cover should appear to have
never had a record inside it. No wear to the corners or
any marrs on the face or back of the cover. EP jackets
and 45 single picture sleeves also apply to this rule.
The record inside can cause an impression (rounded
shape in the face of the cover/sleeve) Many dealers
or sellers feel that the artwork (the ink) has to be worn
or starting to rub off, before there is any ring wear.
NOPE!! Mint means perfect and nothing else!
SPECIAL NOTE: It has been brought to my attention
that because stickers may involve promo and special
track listings that were applied from the factory, it
is still not a standard practice. Promo stickers and
large white programming labels (on the bottom of
the covers) are considered a turn off. Therefore
even these stickers would lower the grade from
a MINT status to perhaps only EX.
For stickers that show special announcements,
such as "Featuring the hit song...etc", were not
applied to all the commercail releases. Some
earlier copies may not have the sticker since the
song in question had not even charted yet.
It was to advertise the whole LP and draw
attention to the buyer. Some stickers are worth
money! That means they actually have value.
Most companies applied the stickers to the shrinkwrap
and thus, one should save these items, but if applied
to the covers, lower the covers grade. If you wish
to place value on the sticker (most are anywhere
from 50 cents to $2.00) then do so but make mention
of the sticker being on the cover to potential buyers!
MINT VINYL: This should be very simple to define.
A mint record should look perfect, as described
earlier. Any defect from the factory pressing, such
as bubbles or pits in the vinyl are not acceptable!
Even if they do not cause any problem when played.
It should, as we said, be a perfect pressing. Records
often were packaged by hand and the simple placing
of the record into a paper sleeve can caused minor
scuffs. Probably very insignificant, but they are flaws
as never the less. For this reason, it is impossible to
call a sealed record mint, thus any sealed record that
is sold, should be sold only with the gaurantee that
it is assumed to be unplayed.
Sealed records have sold for more than the high end
of price guides. If you are selling sealed records,
be advised that many collectors shy away from them.
A sight unseen record is hard to sell. A sealed record
is even harder to sell.
-----------------------------------------------------------
NEAR MINT or NM: Sometimes dealers use M- (Mint Minus)grade.
You may need to ask the dealer if he/she uses the
M- grade the same way as NM. They should mean the
same thing however many people have had used
several confusing grades all based around the Mint
status. We define NM and or M- as being almost mint.
This grade should be, for the most part, the most
widely used grade for records that appear virtually flawless.
Virtually flawless records are not perfect. A very minor
scuff and very little else can appear on the vinyl. This will
most likely have occured during packaging, or removing the
record from the inner sleeve but had been handled with
extreme care. It should play without any noise over the
flaw. The flaw should be very hard to see. If a scuff
covers more than a few tracks yet can be seen, it will
not be NM, however it may come very close. Use strong
judgment when evaluating the vinyls condition.
NEAR MINT COVERS: The cover should look as close to
perfect with only minor signs of wear and or age.
Minor impressions to the cover (due to the outer
edge of the vinyl resting inside) may be acceptable,
however the artwork should be as close to perfect as can be.
--------------------------------------------------------------
EXCELENT or EX or VG++: This is truly a
Goldmine defined grade, however it is becoming
more and more mainstream among collectors and
sellers. It is also a very conservitive grade for
those who don't want to grade NM, for fear they
may overgrade the record and cover. In which
case it is very acceptable yet should not command
the highest price based on NM value. Only NM
records or better are considered collectable and
WILL command top dollar. Anything less, the prices
drop dramatically. However many very rare
(collectble) items can command very close to NM
value, simply because NM copies may not even exist.
This will be explained under a different topic...
FAQ: How to value your collection based on grade
(future updates forthcoming)
EX VINYL: An excelent (EX or VG++) condition for vinyl will
allow minor scuffs which are visable but only
slightly. There may be more than a few, so be careful
not call a record that has wear to more than 15% of the surface.
The wear should be minimal and of course should play mint!
Any scratches that can be felt with your fingernail can NOT be
called scuffs. Scuffs lay on top of the grooves. If any
break in the grooves are felt, they ARE scratches. And most
often, they will be heard when played (soft clicks or even loud
pops). Once again, no scratches can make this grade!
EX COVER: Artwork should still be as close to perfect as can be.
Some impression to the cover (minor outer ring wear) but
no ink wear! Some slight creases to the corners, but not
wrinkled and obtrusive to the eye. The corners can show
white (where the artwork pasted slick was) meaning, slight wear.
No seam splits or writing on the cover or taped repairs can make
this grade. If you don't think a cover is NM than call it EX
or less. There will be obvious reactions to the EX grade.
But if you use a EX grade and price a bit lower, your risk
of overgrade will be reduced dramatically. You will also
make more people happy, rather than trying to call it NM.
______________________________________________________________
VERY GOOD PLUS or VG+: What does this mean? Some people
will call a less than NM record VG+ and skip the EX grade.
Goldmine defines it as Excelent (EX), yet commands only 50%
of the value (for most records). It can easily be defined
as 2 ways. VG+ should be the next grade below a NM
value when grading 45 singles. EX can be used for EP's.
45 singles have only 2 songs and EP's (7" by the way)
can have anywhere from 3, 4, 6 and 8 (seldomly found) songs
on the record. With 45 singles one side may be NM and
the other side may not. If the flip side is not NM but still plays
well (or great, no noise), VG+ is a conservitive grade.
Very few 45's should be called EX unless they are of rarities.
Use carfull judgement when buying and selling them with this grade!
-------------------------------------------------------------------
VG+ VINYL: Now for LP's (the big ones <G>).
VG+ will show wear, surface scuffs,(or spriral scuffs that
came from turn table platters or jukeboxes for 45 singles)
and some very light scratches. Surface scuffs are
caused from blunt (not sharp) objects. Often the minor
scuffs are caused from inner sleeves. The vinyl should
still have a great luster, but the flaws will be noticable
to the naked eye. Sometimes holding the record up to
a very bright light, you will see many tiny lines across
the surface. If the flaws don't cause any surface noise,
the vinyl can make the VG+ grade. Most (but not all) VG+ records
should still play like a NM record. But because the vinyl
has more than 15% (yet less than 30%) wear to the
surface, it can make this grade. Remember, the record
still should look as though it was handled with extreme
care. Sometimes people find records that have no scuffs
that are visable, yet a careless needle scratch causes
a break in the grooves. Play the record. If there is any
obtrusive clicks or pops, which cause the the song
to be less than enjoyable, it may not even be VG+!
Scratches are not acceptable to a serious collector in any
way. If you call a record 95% NM but note the record
as having 1 track with a bad scratch, many will only
consider it as VG (explained next). You should seldom
call a record "A Strong VG, plays mostly VG+". It does
not explain the overall condition well enough. Use
this very cautiously when grading.
--------------------------------------------------------------
VG+ COVERS: Now that we defined the EX grade,
a few extra flaws will make this grade.
A virtually clean cover, but may have small writing on it.
(Magic marker in big letters will not cut it. They are an
eye soar, so be weary of overgrading).
The artwork should look clean with slightly more aging.
The back of the cover usually gives away the age of the
cover. Flat white paper will be somewhat yellow yet no
stains or mildew from water damage. Some minor
wear to the seams or spine, but no tears or holes popping
through. The corners will be slightly dog eared yet no
crackly bends, defacing the artwork. In essence, a VG+
cover should have no more than 3 flaws mentioned.
If all apply, it is less than VG+. (see next grade below)
______________________________________________________________
VERY GOOD or VG: The Very Good Grade does not mean
Very good at all. At least not in the visuall sense. A Very Good
(VG) record will appear well played but still have some
luster. The vinyl may be faded, slightly grayish, yet appears
to have been handled as carefully as it could have been helped.
Records that get continueous playing time will start to deteriorate.
More and more surface scuffs and scratches, and audible
sound defects WILL be heard. They should not overpower the
dynamics of the music. With VG records, the surface noise
will be minor crackle or a slight hiss, but should only be heard
in between tracks or in low musical passages.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
With Jazz and Classical recordings, the music can become
very low to the point where no music is even heard. If any
crackle, tics, clicks or pops are heard, these records will have
very little value to a serious collector! Classical and Jazz is
seldom wanted if they are in less than VG+ condition. It is
wise to play these records (as should all records) when
evaluating grades. Some classical records may look VG+ or
even NM, however play less than than perfect. Beware
of overgrading these. They are difficult to grade and conservitive
grading is a must with them.
Also equally as important. Most dealers truly will not have
a lot of time playing every single LP they sell. It just is
impossible. However when records have questionalble flaws,
the record should be tested at least where the flaw occurs
in the playing surface. Visually noting the flaw may not
be good enough. If the record skips, you will have made
a mistake and the value would thus be less.
------------------------------------------------------------------
VG COVERS: VG covers will look worn, used. There may be
some seam splitting (but not completely seperated!). There
will be some ring wear, where the ink has begun to wear
off. Giving the cover a look of snow falling. If the artwork
looks snowy all over, it is less than VG condition. There
may be some writing on the cover (still not Large letters in Magic
marker).
It will look aged, and more yellowish due to contaminations
in the air (sometimes looking like cigarette smoke). Still it
should be decent. If damaged beyond any formadible beauty,
it will not make this grade. VG should at least still have
some attractive life to it, and not have taped seams or
water damage to it. If you decide to tape repair a cover,
to prevent further damage, use clear scotch tape and place
it on so that it is not obtrusive to the eye. If only a small
split, only tape the split. Don't run tape across the entire spine
or seams. Too much tape means too little interest. Use as
little as possible. If the split is minor, it is best to just leave
it alone. Note the flaw and go from there with the grade.
______________________________________________________________
GOOD or G (including the G+ and VG- grades)
A good record will look very well played, dull, grayish
and possibly abused. However a Good record should still
play. It will have distracting surface noise. Such as crackle
that is continuous or some hiss. Will also have some loss of
dynamics caused from grooves being worn. It should play without
any skips or any obtrusively loud pops or repeated clicks, caused
by deep scratches. If you can't enjoy the record, it
is not no longer even good. Good means that it will play
with some form of decency, so one can still enjoy the music
even though you can still hear noise caused from the wear.
NOTE: Rock and Roll records generally play loud. G condition
records for them will be the most likely thing that will still sell well.
Jazz and Classical and easy listening in G condition are almost
worthless to a collector, since the musical passages often get very
low and surface noise is too distracting to the listener. Also check
on 45 singles for the length of time. Records that play longer than
3 minutes, may not be as dynamic and thus any where will be
heard more than the music (overpower the dynamics). Use
conservitive judgement when grading these types of singles.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
GOOD COVER: a Good cover will have just about everything wrong with
it. It will have seam splits (possibley taped repaired, but only
with scotch tape. No duct tape or masking tape repairs. these
are big turn offs. May have magic marker writing on the cover
but still if they are in huge letters, it is a big turn off.
In essence, the cover will looked trashed, but some artwork
will still be noticed. If the artwork is worn, it is POOR and the
cover is worthless. Huge tears or gouges in the cover will also
make the cover POOR. Be carefull about sealed records, that
have been water damaged. Mildew still can get inside and
cause great damage to the cover, and the disc. Use common
sense and you will save yourself from an overgrade.
NOTE:Sealed records that have water damage should be opened.
Otherwise you will be in trouble later on when the cardboard
starts to deteriorate inside the shrinkwrap. Attempt to dry the
covers using a hair dryer (be sure to remove the record first!)
G+ and VG-: This is seprate from the above. Many records
that appear in VG condition often play less than very good.
Goldmine defines them as better than Good, but less than
Very Good. The value should not increase more than the value
of a Good record. Meaning they all should be priced somewhere
within the same guideline (most often it is 10 to 15% for Good,
and only 15% for Good Plus (G+) and Very Good Minus (VG-).
With a G+ record, it will look just as the described condition for
Good, yet may play better than it looks. Dynamics for are usually
good enough to overpower the surface noise. Same for VG-,
However VG- and G+ are of the same value. It is more of a visually
and audiblely combined grade. There should be no large price
increase for these records. Price them like G records and you
should not have a problem.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
FAIR, POOR: The easiest way to define this is if does not
meet the lowest grade above (GOOD), it is trash. It is worthless.
Unless it is so rare, it won't sellable at all. It is ok to throw
them away or give them to someone who just wants to have them.
It won't be playable for the most part, and so they are not
much good hanging onto them. Very few poor records are collectable.
Some rare colored vinyl or picture discs are ok, and can still be
nice to have, but they won't be good enough to play again.
_____________________________________________________________________
SPECIAL NOTE ABOUT VINYL QAULITY:
Many people will buy reissues of past oldies. The era
in which the vinyl is pressed makes a big difference to
the way it will last ans how ell it will sound for years
to come. Original 50's and 60's used qaulity materials
to produce LP's. Smaller labels used less than great vinyl.
A good pressing is often identified by it's thickness. Also
the depth of the grooves. These will generally be better
for the person who seeks qaulity originals. There is still
the question as to the use of styrene. These are more
brittle and damaged easily when played on poor equipment.
Finding good playing styrene can only be found by playing
them. Some styrene will play better than others.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Quick rundown in abbreviated Grading System
MINT
NM
EX or VG++
VG+
VG
G (with minor exceptions to G+ and VG-)
F and P (Trash)
GRADES THAT DON"T EXSIST: Be weary of these grades!
M+ : They are trying to say the record is better than MINT!
No such animal. If you see this grade, avoid the record
like the plague. Mint is the highest grade anything can
ever be. And 99 out of 100 times the record won't even
be mint! Man is not perfect! So how can a man-made
product be better than perfect? Answer: Impossible.
NM- : Near Mint Minus. Just another way of trying to get
top book value for a record that is less than NM.
If a seller uses this grade, ask what it means (thoroughly)
as opposed to the NM or M- grade. It's your dollar and
if they are selling it as less than NM yet for top dollar,
you may be out of luck trying to convince them that it
was an overgrade on their part. If a record is slightly
less than NM, then use EX or VG++.
EX+: If you read the above the same rule holds true here.
No such thing as EX+. It is just another confusing grade
that does not have any defined level of agreement among
collectors. People who use this grade don't want to lose
money on there collectables. By upping the grade, means
upping the price. Just be fair. Use conservitive grades
When you grade a record, put yourself in the shoes of
the potential buyer. Would you want to get a record with
this grade and discovery some overlooked flaws?
If you sell a record for big $$$ be prepared for criticism.
People will examine the record with more than just a quick
glance once they receive it. Overgrading will only make
you look bad. And too many unhappy customers, means
very few repeats (or perhaps no customers in the long run).
VG+++: Come on, 2 plus marks are enough! No such animal!
G++ : Ok so I use it once in a blue moon. But at least
I describe the way the record plays, to a tee!
The price does not go up. The grade is just a good
selling point. Realistically though it does not exsist.
Use it seldomly if ever.
=============================================================
Copyrighted 1996 by Weldon T. Toms and Goldmine Magazine (Krause Ent.)
You have permission to download, transmit or post to other WWW sites.
You may print for personal reference, but only if left in
it's original entirety. No part can be changed without
express written permission from W.T. Toms.
A copy of this can also be found once week posted
to the follwing news groups (usenet reader required)
rec.muisc.collecting.vinyl
or
rec.music.marketplace.vinyl
Please refer to Paula's FAQ to retrieve it.
Thank you
=================================================================
Back-Trac Records
http://back-trac.com
Vinyl News http://users.aol.com/vinylnews/private/vnews.htm
Handguide To Record Collecting (100% free info).
BackTrac45
INFORMATION SOURCE: GOLDMINE MAGAZINE
rec.muisc.collecting.vinyl
or
rec.music.marketplace.vinyl
BackTrac45
INFORMATION SOURCE: GOLDMINE MAGAZINE
In Compiling this information the following people have participated with
vital information....
Susan Murray (NOD International Records)cyt...@ix.netcom.com
Fred Walker (Vinylonly) viny...@aol.com
Paula Major (Paula's House of Music) doow...@houseofmusic.com (Paula),
...And of course myself
Tim Toms (Back-Trac Records)backt...@aol.com (remove 45 to reply)
Copyright 1996 by Weldon T. Toms (Tim) & Goldmine Magazine (Krause Ent. Pub.)
The following grades defined are derived from the system used by
Goldmine magazine. This is not to say that other grading systems
are not viable. The grades defined here are among the mainstream.
They are not to be confused with any other system. It is to be used
only as a reference but to keep in mind, that when grading, anyone
can choose alternative grading systems for records as long as they
can define the terms they use without confusion.
FAQ: Compiled August 16th, 1996 (Ammended June 24th 1998)
========================================================
Goldmine Grading System Defined:Questions & Answers
========================================================
Questions in this section:
Q1: What is the Goldmine Grading System ?
Q2: How can I grade my own vinyl based on these grades?
========================================================
Answers:
Q1: What is the Goldmine Grading System ?
A1: The Goldmine Grading System was 1st created in the early years
of record collecting. These grades were established from various
other resources pertaining to collecting (for example coin, book,
comics, and card collecting). Goldmine Magazine first published
a grading scale in 1974. It has undergone changes through out the
years, yet has for the most part remained the same.
*** Remember! Two people may not come up with the same grade for
the same record. One person may feel a record is MINT and another
may say NM (Near Mint). After reading the next part of this answer,
perhaps you will be able to identify each grade with out too much
confusion, and allow yourself to grade more conservatively (fairly).
Grade Scale with definitions of each grade:
==================================================
Q2: How can I grade my own vinyl based on these grades?
A2: Below is the grade scale and what you should look
for when assessing a grade for each record you have.
--------------------------------------------------------------
MINT or M : Perfect! A mint record should look like it has just left the
manufacturer, with NO flaws what so ever. It should look as though it had
never been handled. No scuffs or scratches, blotches or stains. No stickers,
address labels, writing on the covers or the labels. No tears or seam splits.
No wear to the cover or record period! Age of the record has nothing to do
with it. A MINT record from 1949 should look like a MINT record from 1998.
The number one complaint from collectors about grading over the years,
have been the deteriorating standards that dealers and private sellers have
had when grading. It is only natural for most people to turn to the "MINT"
grade and read "highest prices" listed in price guides. Since most price
guides have a high and low price range, the assumed grade most often is NOT
mint, but near mint (NM).
*** Okay, but how can I honestly grade a record MINT??? ***
MINT COVERS: Simply put, a mint cover should appear to have never had a
record inside it. No wear to the corners or any mars on the face or back
of the cover. EP jackets (for 7 inch extended plays) and 45 single picture
sleeves also apply to this rule. The record inside can cause an impression
(a round shape in the face of the cover/sleeve) Many dealers or sellers feel
that the artwork (the ink) has to be worn or starting to rub off, before
there is any ring wear. NOPE!! Mint means perfect and nothing else!
**NOTE: Anytime a person calls anything MINT, you should expect a perfect,
visually flawless item. We should actually use the term PERFECT, rather
than the term MINT. Probably no one would ever use this grade. PERFECT is
to say that man (who is not perfect) can produce a perfect item. No way!
MINT is already abused in the open market and many people would be
disappointed when they find some flaw to cause it to be an overgrade.
My feelings are NOTHING is perfect and to call anything MINT, is purely "Hype".
***2ND SPECIAL NOTE: It has been brought to my attention that because
stickers may involve promo and special track listings that were applied
from the factory, it is still not a standard practice. Promo stickers and
large white programming labels (on the bottom of the covers) are considered
a turn off. Therefore even these stickers would lower the grade from
a MINT status to perhaps only VG+ to EX. For stickers that show special
announcements,
such as "Featuring the hit song...etc.", were not applied to all the commercial
releases. Some earlier copies may not have the sticker since the song in
question had not even charted yet. It was to advertise the whole LP and draw
attention to the buyer. Some stickers are worth money! That means they actually
have value. Most companies applied the stickers to the shrinkwrap and thus,
one should save these items, but if applied to the covers, NM or EX is the best
way to grade these covers. If you wish to place value on the sticker (most are
anywhere from 25 cents to $2.00) then do so but make mention of the sticker
being on the cover to potential buyers! Many people want sticker free covers!
MINT VINYL: This should be very simple to define (said with tongue in cheek).
A mint record should look perfect, as described earlier. Any defect from the
factory pressing, such as bubbles or pits in the vinyl is not acceptable!
Even if they do not cause any problem when played. It should, as we said,
be a perfect pressing. Records are ALL packaged by hand and the simple
placing of the record into a paper sleeve, may cause minor scuffs. Probably
very insignificant, but they are flaws never the less. For this reason,
it is impossible to call a sealed record "Mint", thus any sealed record that
is sold, should be sold only with the guarantee that it is assumed to be
never played. Unplayed records will always play better the 1st time unless
of course a flaw occured during the pressing of the record. IT HAPPENS A LOT!
A sealed record cannot be inspected for flaws in the vinyl's grooves, so it not
wise to call a sealed record MINT....EVER!
Sealed records have sold for more than the high end of price guides. If you
are selling sealed records, be advised that many collectors shy away from them.
A sight unseen record (through mail order) is hard to sell. A sealed record
is even harder to sell. If you sell a sealed record and the customer finds
flaws (such as paper scuffs or defected vinyl) you won't be able to claim
that the damage was caused by them, or that they swapped a good pressing with
a bad pressing. If you sell sealed records, you will have problems with some
people, so be alert to those claims of overgrading sealed items!
-----------------------------------------------------------
NEAR MINT or NM: Sometimes dealers use M- (Mint Minus)grade. You may need to
ask the dealer if he/she uses the M- grade the same way as NM. They should
mean the same thing however many people have had used several confusing grades
all based around the Mint grade. We define NM and M- as being almost mint.
This grade should be, for the most part, the most widely used grade for records
that appear virtually flawless. Virtually flawless records are not perfect.
As we mentioned above, no record truly will be perfect, cover or the disc.
A very minor scuff and very little else can appear on the vinyl. This will
most likely have occurred during packaging, or removing the record from the
inner sleeve but had been handled with extreme care. It should play without
any noise over the flaw. The flaw should be very hard to see. If a scuff
covers more than a few tracks yet can be seen, it will not be NM, however
it may come very close. You should always use strong judgment when evaluating
the vinyl's condition. Any blemish, no matter how small, prevents records
from being MINT (Or our PERFECT grade).
NEAR MINT COVERS: The cover should look as close to perfect with only minor
signs of wear and or age. Minor impressions to the cover (due to the outer
edge of the vinyl resting inside) may be acceptable, however the artwork
should be as close to perfect as can be. No scuffs, lite scratching or stains.
Be cautious when grading covers. It is harder to grade a cover than a record.
Artwork is important to many collectors. If age or signs of repetitive
handling
are visable to the naked eye, then start looking for the next lowest grade that
meets the criteria for the covers condition.
--------------------------------------------------------------
EXCELLENT or EX or VG++: This is truly NOT a Goldmine defined grade, however
it is becoming more and more mainstream among collectors and sellers. It is
also a very conservative grade for those who don't want to grade NM, for fear
they may overgrade the record and cover (remember, buyers are ever so picky!).
In which case it is a very acceptable grade yet should not command the highest
price based on NM value. To put it simply, when collectable records are
concerned, there are only 2 collecting grades. NM being "Collectors Condition"
and everything less than NM is not. We are not saying EX records won't have
any value, they just should not be sold for the highest end of book value.
EX records will play just like NM or MINT, meaning no audible noise will
be heard during the play. They should sound better than they look.
Many very rare (collectable) items can command very close to NM value, simply
because NM copies may not even exist.
This will be explained under a different topic...
FAQ: How to value your collection based on grade (part 2)
EX VINYL: An excellent (EX or VG++) grade for vinyl will allow minor scuffs
which are visible but only slightly. There may be more than a few, so be
careful
not call a record that has wear to more than 15% of the surface. The wear
should
be minimal and of course should play mint! Any scratches that can be felt with
your fingernail can NOT be called scuffs. Scuffs rest on top of the grooves.
If there are any break in the grooves that can be felt, they ARE scratches. And
most
often, they will be heard when played (soft clicks or even loud pops).
Once again, "No scratches can make this grade!" Only a few minor paper scuffs
and that's about it. The play should be as close to perfect as well!
EX COVER: Artwork should still be as close to perfect as can be. Some
impression
to the cover (minor outer ring wear) but no ink wear! Some slight creases to
the
corners but no wrinkles. The corners can show white
(where the artwork pasted slick was) meaning, slight wear. No seam splits or
writing on the cover or taped repairs can make this grade. If you don't think
a cover is NM than call it EX or less. There will be obvious reactions to the
EX
grade but if you use the EX grade and price a bit lower, your risk of overgrade
will be reduced dramatically. You will also make more people happy, rather than
trying to call it NM.
______________________________________________________________
VERY GOOD PLUS or VG+: What does this mean? Some people will call a less than
NM
record VG+ and skip the EX grade. Goldmine defines it as Excellent (EX), yet
commands only 50% of the value (for most records). It can easily be defined
as 2 ways. VG+ should be the next grade below a NM value when grading 45
singles.
EX can be used for EP's. 45 singles have only 2 songs and EP's (7" by the way)
can have anywhere from 3, 4, 6 and 8 (seldomly found) songs on the record.
With 45 singles, one side might be NM and the other side may not. If the flip
side
is not NM but still plays well (or great, no noise), VG+ is a conservative
grade.
Very few 45's should be called EX unless they are of rarities. This means you
can allow a valuable item to be worth a bit more than just calling it VG+.
Perhaps the buyer will think a VG+ is EX and you can under sell yourself.
Use some careful judgment when buying and selling them with this grade!
VG+ VINYL: Now for LP's (the big ones <G>). VG+ will show wear, surface scuffs,
(or spiral scuffs that came from turn table platters or jukeboxes for 45
singles)
and some very light scratches. Surface scuffs are caused from blunt (not sharp)
objects. Often the minor scuffs are caused from inner sleeves. The vinyl should
still have a great luster, but the flaws will be noticeable to the naked eye.
Sometimes holding the record up to a very bright light, you will see many tiny
lines across the surface. If the flaws don't cause any surface noise, the vinyl
can still make the VG+ grade. Most (but not all) VG+ records should still play
like a NM record. Because the vinyl has more than 15% (yet but no more than
30%)
visible wear to the surface, it can still make this grade. Remember, the record
still should
look as though it was handled with extreme care. Sometimes people find records
that have no scuffs that are visible, yet a careless needle scratch causes
a break in the grooves. Play the record. Any obtrusive clicks or pops, which
cause the song to be less than enjoyable, may not even be VG+. Be cautious!
Scratches are not acceptable to a serious collector in any way. If you call
a record 95% NM but note the record as having 1 track with a bad scratch,
many will only consider it as VG (explained next). "A Strong VG, plays mostly
VG+."
May be a more appropriate solution to records that play mostly well with only 1
or 2 flaws.
Remember the more conservative you are about the visual and audio part of the
grade, the better chance you will NOT have complaints from those who buy from
you.
Be honest. If you were buying that record, what grade would you say it was?
There are many serious collectors in this market and they won't hesitate to
call
your grading lousy if you place a VG+ grade on a record that plays less than
great.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------
VG+ COVERS: Now that we defined the EX grade, a few extra flaws will make this
grade. A virtually clean cover, but may have small writing on it. [Magic marker
written in big letters] will not cut it. They are an eye soar, so be weary of
overgrading).
The artwork should look clean with slightly more aging. The back of the cover
usually gives away the age of the cover. Flat white paper will be somewhat
yellow
yet no stains or mildew from water damage. Some minor wear to the seams or
spine,
but no tears or holes that pop through. The corners will be slightly dog ear,
yet no
crackling bends that deface the artwork. In essence, a VG+ cover should have no
more than 3 flaws mentioned. If all apply, it is less than VG+. (see next grade
below)
VERY GOOD or VG: This grade has become the much lesser demanded item. A lot
of people feel that a VG record is a record that is good enough. They are
not really going to look very well, but they should STILL play very well.
There will almost always be some surface noise when they are played. The
Dynamics should still be excellent, overpowering the surface noise. A VG record
will appear to have been played a lot but will still have some luster. The
vinyl may be
faded, slightly greyish, because of surface scuffs, which often happens to
records that are played and left out of jackets. Still they should appear to
have been handled as carefully as it could have been helped. Records that get
continuous playing time will always start to deteriorate. Records that get
less play are easily evident since they almost always look as though they were
played only a few times and then packed away for decades. More and more surface
scuffs and scratches, and audible sound defects WILL be heard. They should not
overpower the dynamics of the music. With VG records, the surface noise
should be only some minor crackle or a slight hiss, but should only be heard in
between
tracks or in low musical passages. If crackle or pops and clicks are heard
more than
the music, then it would difficult to call it Very Good, right?
IMPORTANT NOTE:
With Jazz and Classical recordings, the music can become very low to the
point where no music is even heard. If any crackle, ticks, clicks or pops are
heard, these records will have very little value to a serious collector!
Classical and Jazz is seldom wanted, if they are in less than VG+ condition.
It is wise to play these records (as should all records) when evaluating
grades.
Some classical records may look VG+ or even NM, however play less than
perfect. Beware of overgrading these.
They are difficult to grade and conservative grading is a must with them.
Also equally as important. Most dealers truly will not have much time to
play every single LP they sell. It just is impossible. However when records
have questionable flaws, the record should be tested at least where the flaw
occurs in the playing surface. Visually noting the flaw may not be good enough.
If the record skips, you will have made a mistake and the value would thus be
much less. A Classical LP in VG condition often will only be worth 10% of the
NM book value. If they are even wanted.
------------------------------------------------------------------
VG COVERS: VG covers will look worn, used. There may be some seam splitting
(but not completely separated!). There will be some ring wear, where the ink
has begun to wear off. Giving the cover an appearance similar to snow falling.
If the artwork looks snowy all over, it is less than VG condition. There may be
some writing on the cover (still, no Large letters in magic marker). It will
look
aged and more yellowish, caused from contaminates in the air (sometimes looking
like
cigarette smoke). Still it should be decent. If damaged beyond any formidable
beauty, it will not make this grade. VG should at least still have some
attractive life to it, and not have taped seams or water damage to it.
If you decide to tape repair a cover, to prevent further damage, use clear
acid free, scotch tape and place it on so that it is not obtrusive to the eye.
If only a small split, only tape the area that is split. Don't run tape across
the entire
spine or seams. Too much tape means too little interest. Use as little as
possible. If the split is minor, it is best to just leave it alone.
Note the flaws and go from there with the grade. Place the record in a
polyvinyl
bag or rice paper sleeve and then behind the cover (outside of jacket but
behind it).
______________________________________________________________
GOOD or G (including the G+ and VG- grades)
A good record will look very well played, dull, greyish and possibly abused.
However a Good record should still play. It will have distracting surface
noise. Such as crackle that is continuous, or some hiss. They will also have
some
loss of dynamics caused from grooves being worn. It should play without
any skips or any obtrusively loud pops or repeated clicks, caused by deep
scratches. If you can't enjoy the record, it is no longer even good.
Good means that it will play with some form of decency, so one can still
enjoy the music even though you can still hear noise caused from the wear.
NOTE: Rock and Roll records generally play loud. G condition records for
them will be the most likely thing that will still sell well. Jazz and
Classical
and easy listening in G condition are almost worthless to a collector, since
the musical passages often get very low and surface noise is too distracting
to the listener. Also check on 45 singles for the length of time. Records that
play longer than 3 minutes, may not be as dynamic and thus any wear will be
heard more than the music (overpower the dynamics). Use conservative judgment
when grading these types of singles. Check the times as well as the condition.
If a 45 rpm record plays longer than 3 minutes, then test play it. Make your
decision
on the grade from how it plays.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
GOOD COVER: a Good cover will have just about everything wrong with it. It will
have seam splits [possibly taped repaired, but only with scotch tape]. No duct
tape or masking tape repairs. These are big turn offs. They may even have magic
marker
writing on the cover but still if they are in huge letters, it is a big turn
off.
In essence, the cover will look virtually trashed, but some artwork will still
be noticed. If the artwork is worn, it is POOR and the cover is worthless.
Huge tears or gouges in the cover will also make the cover POOR. Be careful
about sealed records, that have been water damaged. Mildew still can get inside
and cause great damage to the cover, and the disc. Use common sense and you
will
save yourself from an overgrade.
***NOTE:Sealed records that have water damage should be opened.
Otherwise you will be in trouble later on when the cardboard
starts to deteriorate inside the shrinkwrap. Attempt to dry the
covers using a hair dryer (being sure to remove the record first!)
G+ and VG-: This is separate from the above. Many records that appear in VG
condition often play less than very good. Goldmine defines them as better
than Good, but less than Very Good. The value should not increase more than
the value of a Good record. Meaning they all should be priced somewhere within
the same guideline (most often it is 10 to 15% for Good, and only 15% for Good
Plus (G+) and Very Good Minus (VG-).
With a G+ record, it will look just as the described condition for Good, yet
may play better than it looks. Dynamics are usually good enough to
overpower the surface noise. Same for VG-, However VG- and G+ is of the same
value. It is more of a visually and audibly combined grade. There should be
no large price increase for these records. Price them like G records and you
should not have a problem. Many Jukebox owners will welcome G+ and VG-
graded 45s since they are cheap yet still decent enough to enjoy.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
FAIR, POOR: The easiest way to define this. If it does not meet the lowest
grade above (GOOD), it is trash. It is worthless. Unless it is so rare, it
won't sell at all. It is OK to throw them away or give them to someone
who just wants to have them. It won't be playable for the most part, and so
they are not much good hanging onto them. Very few poor records are
collectable.
Some rare colored vinyl or picture discs are OK, and can still be attractive to
have,
but they won't be good enough to play again.
_____________________________________________________________________
SPECIAL NOTE ABOUT VINYL QUALITY:
Many people will purchase reissues of past oldies. The era in which the vinyl
is
pressed makes a big difference to the way it will last and how it will sound
for years to come. Original 50's and early 60's used quality materials to
produce LPs. Smaller labels used less than great vinyl. A good pressing is
often identified by it's thickness. Also the depth of the grooves. These will
generally be better for the person who seeks quality originals. There is still
the question as to the use of styrene. These are more brittle and damaged
easily
when played on poor equipment. Finding good playing styrene can only be found
by
playing them. Some styrene will play better than others.
Styrene was used in all decades (late 50's up to the late 80's). Recycled
vinyl was used in the mid 70's up to the late 80's as well. Poor vinyl meant
less playing time for these items. Finding them NM is a problem. Many 45 issues
can be found, brand new, with hairline cracks and greyish discoloring. They
may play decent but unless you find them flawless and play perfect, don't
overgrade them!
Beware of imports from countries such as Taiwan and Korea. Although the
vinyl appears thick (almost too thick), the sound mastering and plate mastering
are inferior. They sound as bad as bootlegs, since they were massed produced
using less than superior technology. They also were placed in paper sleeves
that looked cheesy. Some may sound better than others, but beyond that, they
are not very collectable. They are more of a conversation piece rather than
a valid piece of sound recording. Collectors often just pick them up for
the novelty factor, not because they expect them to play good.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Quick rundown in abbreviated Grading System
MINT (PERFECT)
NM
EX or VG++
VG+
VG
G (with minor exceptions to G+ and VG-)
F and P (Trash)
GRADES THAT DON'T EXIST: Be weary of these grades!
GEM MINT: Good Rockin' Tonight uses this grade. They are
a big auction house and of course they got so big, they decided
to create their own grading system. Then they also have Mint.
Go figure. What can be better than Mint?
M+ : They are trying to say the record is better than MINT!
No such animal. If you see this grade, avoid the record
like the plague. Mint grades, are the highest any record could
ever be. And 999 out of 1000 times the record won't even
be mint! Man is not perfect! So how can a man-made
product be better than perfect? Answer: Impossible.
NM- : Near Mint Minus. Just another way of trying to get
top book value for a record that is less than NM.
If a seller uses this grade, ask them what it means (thoroughly)
as opposed to the NM or M- grade. It's your dollar and
if they are selling it as less than NM yet for top dollar,
you may be out of luck trying to convince them that it
was an overgrade on their part. If a record is slightly
less than NM, then use EX or VG++.
EX+: If you have read the above, the same rule holds true here.
No such thing as EX+. It is just another confusing grade
that does not have any defined level of agreement among
collectors. People who use this grade don't want to lose
money on their collectibles. By upping the grade, means
upping the price. Just be fair. Use conservative grades
when you grade a record. Place yourself in the shoes of
the potential buyer. Would you want to get a record with
this grade and discovery some overlooked flaws?
If you sell a record for big $$$ be prepared for criticism.
People will examine the record with more than just a quick
glance once they receive it. Overgrading will only make
you look bad. And too many unhappy customers can mean
very few repeats (or perhaps no customers in the long run).
VG+++: Come on! 2 plus marks are enough! No such animal!
G++ : Ok, so I use it once in a blue moon. But at least
I describe the way the record plays, to a tee!
The price does not go up. The grade is just a good
selling point. Realistically though, it does not exist.
Use it seldomly if ever.
END OF TOPIC (See part 2)
+++++++++++++=============================================================
Copyrighted 1996 by Weldon T. Toms & Goldmine Magazine (Krause Ent. Pub.)
You have permission to download, transmit or post this to other WWW sites.
You may print for personal reference, but only if left in its original
entirety.
No part can be changed without express written permission from W.T. Toms.
Thank you
=============================================================
Back-Trac Records
http://back-trac.com
Vinyl News http://users.aol.com/vinylnews/private/vnews.htm
Handguide To Record Collecting (100% free info).
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In Compiling this Q & A, the following people have
participated with vital information....
Susan Murray (NOD International Records)cyt...@ix.netcom.com
Fred Walker (Vinylonly) viny...@aol.com
Paula Major (Paula's House of Music) doow...@HUB.ofthe.NET (Paula),
Goldmine Grading System is copyrighted by Krause Ent and Goldmine.
Ammendments Copyright 1996 by Weldon T. Toms (Tim)
Any additional insight can be forwarded to
Tim at backt...@aol.com for future updates (remove 45 to reply)
rec.muisc.collecting.vinyl
or
rec.music.marketplace.vinyl
Back-Trac Records
http://back-trac.com
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BackTrac45
rec.muisc.collecting.vinyl
or
rec.music.marketplace.vinyl
Back-Trac Records
BackTrac45
In Compiling this information the following people have participated with
vital information....
Susan Murray (NOD International Records)cyt...@ix.netcom.com
Fred Walker (Vinylonly) viny...@aol.com
Paula Major (Paula's House of Music) doow...@houseofmusic.com (Paula),
...And of course myself
Tim Toms (Back-Trac Records)backt...@aol.com (remove 45 to reply)
Copyright 1996 by Weldon T. Toms (Tim) & Goldmine Magazine (Krause Ent. Pub.)
The following grades defined are derived from the system used by
Goldmine Magazine. This is not to say that other grading systems
are less viable. The grades defined here are among the mainstream.
Thank you
=============================================================
Back-Trac Records
http://back-trac.com
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