Rec.Motorcycles Frequently Asked Questions (v2.0), Part 1/6
ravi narayan
Archive-name: motorcycles/faq/part1
Rec-motorcycles-archive-name: faq/part1
Posting-Frequency: monthly (13th of each month)
Last-modified: 1996/03/12
Version: 2.0
URL: http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike/motofaq.html
This is the official rec.motorcycles List of Answers to Frequently Asked
Questions. This FAQ is posted in 6 + 1 parts. It can also be access on the
web at the URL:
http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike/motofaq.html
The creater and original author of this document is Dave Williams.
However, he does not maintain this FAQ anymore. I do. Please send any
comments, updates etc to me: r...@research.att.com and not to Dave.
Motorcycle FAQ Part 1: Terminology and Riding
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Section 0: INDEX
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0. Index
1. Terminology and Trivia
1.1 I've seen some unfamiliar terms while reading the newsgroup.
What do they mean?
1.2 Who the hell is Lance Holst, and why is he a jerk?
1.3 Why doesn't the rec.motorcycle FAQ come out on the first of the
month like most other FAQs?
2. Riding
2.1 I've never ridden before, and I'd like to take a course. Where
can I find one?
2.2 I've never owned a motorcycle before, but I'd like to buy one.
What's a good first bike?
2.3 When I go around corners, should I lean my head with my body or
keep it perpendicular to the road?
2.4 What's proper behavior for a passenger riding pillion?
2.5 What is lane splitting, and why would I want to do it?
2.6 I'd like to ride along with several friends, but I'm afraid we'll
get tangled up or run into each other. Are there any rules for
riding in groups?
3. Countersteering
3.1 What is countersteering, and why would I want to do it?
4. Mechanical
4.1 I pulled a wheelie the other day. Now my steering has a "catch"
in it, the the bike wants to veer to the side.
4.2 My 1978 Suzuki GS750 is supposed to use grade SE oil. All I can
find is SG. Will it work? What about special motorcycle oils like
Golden Spectro?
4.3 Can I use a synthetic oil in my motorcycle's engine?
4.4 I've been looking to buy a [brand and model name not important].
Several people have told me those bikes have troubles with
second gear. How can I tell if this one is OK, and why do they
have this problem?
4.5 My motorcycle seems to use up chains pretty fast. How can I tell
the difference between a good chain and junk chain?
4.6 My engine has a magnetic drain plug. Whenever I change the oil,
it's always covered with tiny metal splinters and spooge. Does
this indicate problems in the engine?
4.7 The front brakes on my bike make a buzzing noise. I've looked all
over and can't see any loose parts. What is it?
4.8 Are drilled or slotted rotors more efficient than solid rotors?
4.9 I have a 1973 Kawasaki Z-1. My owner's manual says it should
run premium leaded fuel. Will it hurt the engine to run
unleaded? The local shop says they need to install hardened
valve seats for $400.
4.10 I've seen ads for light modulators that flash the headlight and
brake light. Are these really useful? Should I buy one?
5. Personal Equipment/Riding Gear
5.1 I'm considering the purchase of a new helmet. The one I have
doesn't feel too good for some reason, even though it's the
right size. How can I tell when a helmet fits right?
5.2 The wind and engine noise from my bike get to me after a while.
Is it safe to wear earplugs when I'm riding?
5.3 What's a good buy for a leather jacket?
5.4 Is there anything that will clean a face-shield and also remove
abrasions so that one can see through it better?
5.5 What kind of abrasion resistance can I expect from various
protective gear?
6. Tires
6.1 I'm having new tires put on my bike. Is there anything I should
watch for?
7. Law
7.1 I'll be vacationing in [some foreign country] and would like to
rent a motorcycle there. Is my [home country] license OK?
8. Other
8.1 I am interested in/just bought a 19xx Yamahondasakiuki CNGSZxx and
I was wondering how good it is and what I should watch out for?
8.2 I'd like to get a bike cover. Where can I get one?
9. SideCars
9.1 I'm interested in adding a sidecar to my bike. What's the deal?
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Section 1: TERMINOLOGY & TRIVIA
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Q1.1 ===> I've seen some unfamiliar terms while reading the newsgroup. What do
they mean?
You think maybe we can read your mind? Well, here are a few commonly-used
terms:
* cager: motorist inside a car or pickup
* Denizens: the kind of people your mother warned you about.
* DoD: I'd tell you, but then I'd have to kill you The DoD FAQ appears in
rec.moto at the beginning of each month.
* endo: what happens when you get too exuberant with a stoppie.
* FOAF story: "friend of a friend" story - usually bogus.
* highside: falling over to the outside of a turn (bad).
* lowside: falling over to the inside of a turn (ditto) *
ma...@os-d.isc-br.com (H. Marc Lewis) adds: "You don't
have to be turning to highside (or lowside). If the bike
is leaning to one side (turning, tankslapper, whatever)
and you fall off on the same side, then it's a lowside. If
the bike violently flips you over center to the other side
(and beyond!) then it's a highside. I've seen and done
both during 7 years of desert racing. The highside is by
far the worst of the two..."
* MSF: Motorcycle Safety Foundation. They teach 'How to Ride' schools,
mandatory in some states.
* spooge: any semiliquid nasty substance.
* squid: someone who rides far outside his abilities, often to the
detriment of himself and his equipment.
* stoppie: a maximum-effort stop where the rear wheel is lifted clear of
the pavement.
* WFO: Wide F***ing Open - the normal throttle position for Denizens,
squids, and unfortunates on 50cc Honda step-throughs.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q1.2 ===> Who the hell is Lance Holst, and why is he a jerk?
That's for us to know and you to find out.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q1.3 ===> Why doesn't the rec.motorcycle FAQ come out on the first of the month
like most other FAQs?
We use the Mayan calendar.
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Section 2: RIDING
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q2.1 ===> I've never ridden before, and I'd like to take a course. Where can I
find one?
In the USA, the Motorcycle Safety Foundation has courses several times a year.
To find the next/nearest course, call 800-447-4700.
Some states may also have their own required courses. Check with your local
DMV.
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Q2.2 ===> I've never owned a motorcycle before, but I'd like to buy one.
What's a good first bike?
Don't let your hormones get the upper hand. Start small. Try to find something
short enough that you can touch the ground with both feet when at rest.
Experienced riders don't care, but it's very comforting when you start out.
Try to find an older, used machine. It doesn't have to be perfect as long as
it's safe. Registration and (particularly!) insurance are cheaper on older or
smaller bikes. If you drop it, you won't feel nearly as bad as you would if it
was a new ZZX700RRR or whatever.
Once you have some miles racked up, you'll be a lot better at deciding what
kind of machine you want to buy. You can sell the old one, trade it in, or keep
it for a spare.
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Q2.3 ===> When I go around corners, should I lean my head with my body or
keep it perpendicular to the road?
Lots of people ride either way. At low speeds it probably doesn't matter. The
fastest racers keep their head level no matter which way they're leaning. Keith
Code's Superbike school also recommends this.
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Q2.4 ===> What's proper behavior for a passenger riding pillion?
ro...@gg.caltech.edu writes:
Here's what I tell passengers:
* Don't think or worry about leaning. Instead...
* Sit close and hug me tight. That way we are essentially a single
unit---and I control the lean for the both of us. [It's particularly
important when carrying a large male; if he's sitting back it's like a
large weight at the end of a spring sticking up from the rear of the bike,
which makes it wobbly and hard to control. I explain this to guys to get
them over the macho, guys- can't-hug-guys thing. I explain this to women
also: since women tend to be lighter and have a low center of gravity,
when a small- to-medium woman sits close & hugs tight, I find almost no
noticeable effect on handling (though there *is* a noticeable effect on my
mood :) ]
* Ignore the things that look like handgrips beside the saddle.
* If you really want to participate, shift your head to look over my inside
shoulder in turns---shifting the ~25 pounds of head+ helmet gives plenty
of contribution to the lean. Otherwise don't worry about it, just pick a
shoulder and stick with it, switch when you get bored.
* Keep your feet on the pegs at all times! Don't put them down when we stop
at a light or anywhere else---I don't want them to get mangled when I
start moving.
* You may want to stand up on your pegs a little when we stop, to keep from
sliding forward on the seat.
* Let me know if you're uncomfortable with freeway speeds or extreme leans
or lane-splitting or whatever. [I try to not to terrify newbies.]
* Open or close your faceshield as makes you happy.
* Enjoy!
The above works for me, riding a standard-style street bike ('83 Nighthawk
650). I imagine things might be different for sport or touring bikes.
[comment: Looks quite complete. Probably the most important thing is not to get
a case of the red ass when hauling a newbie - it can be scary as hell back
there. Also be wary when carrying experienced riders, as they may shift their
weight to "help" you without thinking about it.]
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Q2.5 ===> What is lane splitting, and why would I want to do it?
Lane splitting is when you ride between the lanes of traffic. This is legal in
some states, not forbidden in others, and illegal in still others. It can be an
enormous time-saver when the freeway turns into a parking lot at quitting time.
Some people - including some motorcycle magazine editors - advocate lane
splitting and have done so for years. Others, thinking of how erratic the
average cager is already, prefer not to take the chance of being creamed when
someone changes lanes or opens a door to dump a spittoon.
Some people make a distinction between lane splitting and lane sharing. The
same comments apply.
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Q2.6 ===> I'd like to ride along with several friends, but I'm afraid we'll get
tangled up or run into each other. Are there any rules for riding in groups?
There aren't any formal rules. Some states permit riding side by side, other
states require you ride staggered. Unless you're very familiar with who you're
riding with it's a good idea to ride staggered.
In most states, groups must stop individually for stop signs or red lights.
It's bad practice to ride through a red light even if you're in the middle of
200 riders. Large group rides sometimes have police escort; if so, follow
police signals. Sometimes it's hard to differentiate "blow through this red
light" from "there's a wasp up my sleeve."
Generally, when riding parallel, the bike nearest the shoulder has
right-of-way. It's assumed that the inside bike can crowd the divider and any
oncoming traffic, while the outside bike may be facing a ditch or stepped
shoulder.
When riding staggered, the bike in front normally has the right-of- way. You
can see the guy in front just fine; he has to use his mirrors to see you. By
assuming you can take care of yourself, he doesn't have to worry about
collision if he has to dodge a pothole or armadillo.
Remember, when you're riding in a group, you only have *half* a lane. Worn
pavement or crosswinds can make it difficult to keep your mirrors or bodywork
out of someone else's space.
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...end of part 1
--
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ none-%er #2 ~ ~ ~
ravi narayan | ask me about the rec.motorcycles FAQ | 89 suzuki gs500e
at&t bell labs | the nj-cycles and east mailing lists | 92 ducati 750ss
r...@bell-labs.com_|__ http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi _____|___DoD squid #1 ____
ravi narayan
Archive-name: motorcycles/faq/part2
Rec-motorcycles-archive-name: faq/part2
Posting-Frequency: monthly (13th of each month)
Last-modified: 1996/03/12
Version: 2.0
URL: http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike/motofaq.html
Motorcycle FAQ Part 2: Countersteering and Mechanical
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Section 3: COUNTERSTEERING
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q3.1 ===> What is countersteering, and why would I want to do it?
That's a complex subject. Ed Green (egr...@laser.East.Sun.COM) has submitted a
mini-FAQ on the subject:
How do motorcycles turn?
by Ed Green, a recognized non-expert in the field
A frequent topic of discussion, and the source of much confusion, on
rec.motorcycles concerns the mechanics, and underlying physics, of how
motorcycles turn. It would seem that such a basic maneuver should be well
understood by all motorcyclists. Surprisingly, many experienced riders have no
idea how they turn, they probably never think about it. Many others have very
definite ideas about how they turn, which are likely incorrect. Even among the
elite and erudite Denizens, there is considerable disagreement as to the
mechanics involved with both leaning a motorcycle, and actually turning one.
Outlined here are the four major theories of motorcycle turning which came out
of a recent flame war, er, discussion, on the subject (hopefully presented
somewhat objectively).
To begin with, motorcycles, at greater than parking lot speeds, must lean to
turn. This is part of why they are so fun to ride. The four predominate
theories of turning are evenly divided between leaning and turning, thusly:
1. Leaning (including countersteering)
1. Gyroscopic Precession
2. Steering-induced Roll
2. Turning
1. Camber Thrust
2. Steering Geometry
1. Leaning
Many people assume one leans a motorcycle by shifting body weight. While
it is possible to induce lean in this manner, the quickest, easiest, and
most controllable method of leaning a motorcycle is by counter-steering.
Counter-steering is a technique whereby the rider exerts pressure on the
*inside* handlebar (left for a left- hand turn, right for a right-hand
turn), to lean the motorcycle in the desired direction. This is in effect
steering the motorcycle the "wrong" way, from the point of view of
operating a tricycle, thus the term "counter-steering." THAT it works is
undeniable, and can be proven easily with a short ride. Both the rate of
transitioning to the lean (how quickly the bike leans) and the degree of
the lean (how far over it leans) can be controlled by the rate and degree
of pressure applied to the grip.
HOW counter-steering works is debatable. The two leading theories are
gyroscopic precession and steering-induced roll.
1.1 Gyroscopic Precession
When riding at any appreciable speed, both wheels of the motorcycle
exhibit the properties of a gyroscope. This contributes to the
stability of a moving motorcycle. One such property, called
gyroscopic precession, is that when a lateral force is applied to the
axis of a free spinning gyroscope, the axis moves in a direction 90
degrees from the applied force, in the direction of the spin. For a
motorcycle front wheel, this means that a force applied which
attempts to move the axis on one side of the wheel back, toward the
rear of the bike, will result in an effort by that axis to move up.
Similarly, a force applied to move the hub forward results in a force
trying to push it down. Thus to execute, say, a right hand turn, the
rider pushes on the right grip, seemingly to steer the front wheel to
the left. The forks translate this input to hub of the wheel as a
force pushing forward on the right side of the wheel, and backward on
the left side. Gyroscopic precession will generate a force directed
down on the right side, and up on the left, which forces the bike to
lean to the right.
This gyroscopic business can most easily be demonstrated with a
bicycle. Position the bike in such a way that the front tire is in
the air and can rotate freely, and spin it up to a good speed.
Holding the handlebars, attempt to turn the wheel to the left, by
pushing on the right grip, and pulling on the left. You will feel the
wheel trying to push the whole assembly over to the right.
1.2 Steering-induced Roll
The point of contact between the motorcycle and the road is called
the contact patch, and is that small area of the front and rear tire
beneath the hubs (on level ground) which is resting on the road
surface. All actions which depend on frictional forces between the
tires and the road (such as acceleration, braking, and cornering)
depend on this contact patch, and the contact patch is the point of
application of the frictional forces. As long as one accepts that the
center of mass of the motorcycle+ rider system is somewhere above
this contact patch, then any frictional force which displaces the
tires to the side acts at the point of contact with the road, and
will induce a pivot about the center of mass (with a moment arm of
the distance from the contact patch to the center of mass). This
pivot about the longitudinal axis of the motorcycle is what is
referred to in aviation as roll (when one wing of the plane is higher
than the other).
This steering-induced roll is much easier to visualize than
gyroscopic forces, and is most simply described as "steering the
wheels out from under the bike, to make it lean the other way."
2. Turning
Through one or the other of these techniques, or some combination of the
two, the motorcycle is leaned over by counter-steering. The motorcycle can
also be leaned through weight shift, in which case neither of the above
theories hold. That is only half the answer, however. Once the motorcycle
is leaned, what makes it turn? Assuming for a moment it doesn't just fall
over, why shouldn't it continue leaned over in a straight line until it
runs out of gas? The good folks of rec.motorcycles have been hard at work
on that one, too. The two leading theories for cornering of a leaned-over
bike are camber thrust and steering geometry.
2.1 Camber Thrust
Unlike the tires for cages and bulldozers, motorcycle tires have a
round profile. The diameter of the tire changes from a maximum at the
center (the contact patch if going straight), decreasing to a minimum
at the rim. When the bike (and thus the tire) are leaned over, during
a single revolution of the wheel, the center portion of the tire must
travel further than the part near the edge. This induces what is
called camber thrust, and it forces the tire to trace out an arc in
the direction of the smaller diameter.
Camber thrust can be demonstrated by placing an empty ice cream cone
on its side, on a flat surface, and giving it a push. The cone will
not roll in the direction it was pushed, but will constantly turn
from that path, toward the smaller end.
2.2 Steering Geometry
The steering stem and handlebars of a motorcycle are not positioned
directly above the hub of the front wheel, but are angled back to
varying degrees, referred to as rake. Thus, the weight of the
motorcycle+rider is supported by the front wheel, not straight up and
down, but at an angle which points through to a point ahead of the
contact patch. The distance from that point to the actual contact
patch is called trail. During straight-up and straight-ahead riding,
this has no effect on steering, because the force is transmitted
along the center axis of the motorcycle, which is the same as the
center axis of the front wheel. When leaned over, however, this
configuration causes a force to be applied to the rear part of the
front tire, causing it to lift, turning the wheel into the curve. The
motorcycle then naturally follows the front wheel. This view of
turning is essentially the same as that for other vehicles, using
lean only to counter the centripetal acceleration caused by the
bike's linear momentum.
This aspect of steering geometry can be demonstrated by holding a
bicycle (or motorcycle) upright, with the handlebars and front tire
free to move. Lean the bike to the right, and the front tire will
"fall" (actually, be pushed by the steering geometry) to the right,
and similarly for a lean to the left. Thus, the lean of the
motorcycle, even if initiated by a countersteer, forces the front
tire to point to the inside of the curve, carving out a turn, and the
lean also balances the centripetal force which would otherwise push
the bike over to the outside of the turn.
So, in summary, a motorcycle must lean to turn. The quickest way to lean a
motorcycle is to use counter-steering. Counter- steering leans the motorcycle
through some combination of gyroscopic precession and steering-induced roll.
Once leaned over, the motorcycle turns by some combination of camber thrust and
steering geometry. What is the exact combination of each of these effects in
actually causing leaning and turning? Pick two, three, or all four of them,
come up with your own mix, go find a biker, and argue about it.
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Section 4: MECHANICAL
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Q4.1 ===> I pulled a wheelie the other day. Now my steering has a "catch"
in it, the the bike wants to veer to the side.
You probably notched the steering head bearings. Under a side load (like
whopping the front wheel back on the ground) the races can get dented, balls
flattened, or both. The only fix is to replace the bearings. Taper rollers are
much less susceptible to this sort of damage, and conversion kits are sometimes
available.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q4.2 ===> My 1978 Suzuki GS750 is supposed to use grade SE oil. All I can
find is SG. Will it work? What about special motorcycle oils like Golden
Spectro?
The SE and SG are Service Ratings. SE has been superceded by SG, which is
generally a superior grade of oil. There should be no troubles running SG.
The vendors of the specialty motorcycle oils claim their oils are better than
ordinary automotive oils. That could possibly be true, particularly with regard
to motorcycles using roller bearing cranks. In most cases special motorcycle
oils are probably a waste of money.
Some motorcycles never seem to shift right, usually because they have clutches
that run in oil and automotive oil doesn't always let them properly disengage.
Various rec.moto participants have reported greatly improved shifting and
clutch action with special motorcycle oils. Even expensive oil is cheaper than
a clutch or transmission.
Ed Hackett maintains a detailed FAQ on oil . You can annoy him at
e...@wheeler.wrc.unr.edu.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
...end of part 2
ravi narayan
Archive-name: motorcycles/faq/part3
Rec-motorcycles-archive-name: faq/part3
Posting-Frequency: monthly (13th of each month)
Last-modified: 1996/03/12
Version: 2.0
URL: http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike/motofaq.html
Motorcycle FAQ Part 3: Mechanical
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Section 4: MECHANICAL (contd...)
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Q4.3 ===> Can I use a synthetic oil in my motorcycle's engine?
Motorcycles in general tend to be highly stressed, run hot, are abused when
ridden, and tend to be stored for extended periods. These are virtually
tailor-made circumstances where synthetic oils can shine.
Unfortunately, most modern motorcycles use a "wet" clutch, that is, the clutch
runs in oil. (despite how wacko this sounds, it's true) Some synthetics can
cause your clutch to slip. If you have a wet clutch and really want to try
synthetic oil, give it a try. If your clutch slips you can always drain it and
put regular oil back in.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q4.4 ===> I've been looking to buy a [brand and model name not important].
Several people have told me those bikes have troubles with second gear. How can
I tell if this one is OK, and why do they have this problem?
Second gear problems are the most common of all. They tend to be worse on
high-power machines. Typically, the rider doesn't get the gear all the way into
engagement, and it pops out under hard acceleration. This typically rips metal
off the engagement surfaces, making it that much easier to pop out the next
time. Eventually the machine will pop out of gear under acceleration.
Incorrectly adjusted clutches, careless shifting, and shifting without the
clutch can all cause second gear problems. The fact that you could shift your
dirt bike without the clutch is not relevant; your dirt bike probably doesn't
weigh 550 pounds, run on pavement, and have a fat tire on the back.
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Q4.5 ===> My motorcycle seems to use up chains pretty fast. How can I tell
the difference between a good chain and junk chain?
I wrote an article for Australian Motorcycle News which covered this subject in
detail. I've reproduced it here:
Years ago chains were considered disposable items. I remember scraping up money
for the spring chain and sprocket ritual every year when I was in high school.
Sometimes the chain wouldn't make it through the summer, even with fanatic
oiling. Every T-shirt I owned had an oil stripe down the back on the left, much
to my mother's dissatisfaction. I once had a two-month-old chain on my 175
Kawasaki snap while going 50mph. The broken chain wrapped itself around the
swingarm and locked the rear wheel solid, whereupon the rear wheel decided it
would lead for a while. By some miracle I came to a halt still vertical, but I
have had a paranoid distrust of chain drive ever since.
Now what, might you ask, would cause a chain to break like that? It was
properly lubricated, adjusted, and running on the correct size (new) sprockets.
Chances are that the local motorcycle shop had sold me some ordinary industrial
chain instead of motorcycle chain. Such unscrupulous dealings were far more
common years ago than they are now. A real chain might cost $30 then, but farm
machinery chain sold for a little over a dollar a foot. What's the difference?
In its simplest form, the roller chain consists of side plates, pins, and
rollers. When properly lubricated, this type of chain will perform acceptably
for most engineering purposes. Unfortunately, proper lubrication consists of an
oil fog or bath and freedom from dirt, both conditions unlikely on a
motorcycle. Twenty years ago some machines still came with enclosed chains, but
the enclosed chain died away not because of styling, but because it was a
tearing pain in the arse to service the chain or rear wheel with the bulky (and
oftimes leaky) enclosure in the way.
The oilite-bushed chain assisted the enclosed chain to oblivion. A porous
bushing was pressed into the roller and rode on the pin. This porous bushing
was impregnated with lubricant and would absorb chain lube too. With a moderate
amount of maintenance the bushed chain was satisfactory if not perfect. Since
the mid-1960s all "real" motorcycle chain has been of the bushed type. The
chain that caused my hair-raising ride was likely of the previous type.
In the mid-1970s the "O-ring" chains came into use. These were bushed chains
using O-ring seals to keep the lubricant in and dirt and water out. They
represent the latest word in drive chain design, being reliable, long lasting,
and low-maintenance. Indeed, when run on plastic sprockets, the O-ring chain
may need no other lubrication during its operational lifetime.
Modern motorcycle chains come in two basic types - those which are endless, and
those which use master links. Endless chains came about when engineers realized
that most catastrophic chain failures ocurred at the master link. By
eliminating the master link, reliability could be enhanced. Unfortunately,
endless chains can cause a problem if the sprocket sizes have been changed
much; if it is too long or too short, nothing can be done. Endless chains also
usually require time-consuming removal of the swingarm for replacement.
Motorcycle drive chain contains two kinds of links. Roller links consist of two
side plates, two rollers, and two bushings, all a slip fit over the drive pins.
Pin links consist of two side plates and two drive pins, with the pins being a
tight press fit into the side plates and staked in place for permanence. These
links overlap, rollers on pins, to make the complete chain.
Most chain is made in inch-based sizes, because the standard chain dimensions
were established before much of the industrialized world had adopted the metric
system. The basic chain size is given in terms of pitch, which is the
on-centers distance between the rollers. The roller diameter is standardized at
5/8 of the chain's pitch dimension, so the common 5/8-pitch chain has a roller
diameter of .391 inches. Unfortunately, no such uniformity exists in chain
width, which varies a lot, as does sprocket thickness. Running a chain on
sprockets which are too wide is usually a feat beyond even the most
mechanically disinclined; unfortunately, it is also possible to run a chain on
sprockets which are too narrow. The results of this are not good - the chain
usually runs to one side of the sprocket, concentrating a majority of the load
on one side of the chain, lowering its strength considerably and greatly
increasing both load and wear.
The loads on a chain are astounding. An average large-bore motorcycle in first
gear can easily develop 1500 pounds of pull on the drive chain. The
load-bearing area on the drive pins is about .075 square inches in circular
contact, in reality, much less. The best-case loading for each pin is on the
rough order of 20,000 pounds per square inch! With this kind of load, chain
wear becomes less of a mystery.
The loads imposed by the engine are only part of the stresses inflicted on the
chain. If you watch a motorcycle in motion, you will see that the slack side of
the chain does not simply droop. Instead, it snakes and curves in a wavelike
motion induced by its tendency to try to wrap itself around the sprocket.
Stresses involved can be quite large. This threshing about adds to the relative
motion between the pins and links and wears the chain out faster.
Motorcyclists often refer to "chain stretch." This term is somewhat misleading.
Chains do not actually stretch materially; any load large enough to appreciably
stretch a chain would be as likely to snap it right in half. The stretch
referred to is the growth in overall length of the chain due to wear in its
many moving parts.
The chain's pins pull very hard against the bushing walls and most of the wear
occurs at those contact points. Loads carried by the bushing/roller contact
surfaces are just as large but spread out over so much area that the pressure
at any given point is much less than at the pins. In the normal course of
events a chain's pins will be worn to their service limits long before the
rollers are in any trouble. A chain is ready for replacement when stretch
exceeds 2 to 2.5 percent. On a 5/8-pitch chain, this figures out as about
.0125-.0156" of slack per pin joint. Measuring each joint with a micrometer is
not necessary. For example, a chain measuring 65 inches has reached its service
limit when its length has grown to 66.3 to 66.63 inches.
As the chain wears, the effective pitch between the links becomes greater. The
chain's pitch becomes slightly longer that of its sprockets, causing the
rollers to ride up on the teeth and apply pressure where the sprocket is narrow
and weak. A properly-designed sprocket is designed to engage the chain's
rollers gently, ease them down to the base of each tooth - where the load is
taken - and then disengage smoothly and send the chain away. As the chain rides
up on the teeth, sprocket wear increases dramatically.
It would be nice if the sprocket makers would tell us how much a chain may
stretch before it would no longer fit within the design limits of its the
sprockets. Unfortunately, most sprockets come bulk packed, or, if we are lucky,
they might be blister-packed to prevent them from being beaten up in shipment.
Chain wear can be kept to a minimum by keeping it clean and properly
lubricated. Gasoline, kerosene/paraffin, and cleaning solvent are definite
no-nos for cleaning chain. They can eat the O- ring seals and then hang around
to contaminate the lubricant. Wipe any dirt of sand off with a cloth, then
apply your favorite lube. Specially-formulated chain lubes usually spray on
like a thin oil to better penetrate the crevices and then congeal to better
prevent being thrown off.
Inexpensive non-O-ring sealed chains require much more frequent attention. On
an unlubricated chain the friction between links can cause temperatures to rise
to the point where the links can actually weld themselves together, putting a
permanent kink in the chain.
New chains have a breakin period, and that's when they have special need for
proper lubrication. If their pins are well-oiled the loaded surfaces will be
burnished smooth, leaving them in better condition to resist wear. Without
adequate lubrication the surfaces will scuff and gall, greatly accelerating
wear.
The chain final drive has come to become the mark of the sporting machine. It
is lightweight, mechanically efficient, inexpensive, and compact. Chain
technology is still developing, and it's likely we'll see chain drive used for
a long time.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q4.6 ===> My engine has a magnetic drain plug. Whenever I change the oil,
it's always covered with tiny metal splinters and spooge. Does this indicate
problems in the engine?
Probably not. The magnet's purpose is to attract ferrous spooge. The gooey mess
is tiny iron filings from your cams, cylinder walls, and other wearing
surfaces. It's basically the same sort of gick your oil filter traps. Small
splinters and pinhead-sized chunks are usually pieces of your transmission's
engagement dogs. It's normal to have *some* splinters even on carefully-ridden
machines. A lot of them indicates missed shifts or worn shifter components.
Pinhead-size or larger flakes usually mean the case hardening is coming off the
gears. That's a bad sign.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
...end of part 3
ravi narayan
Archive-name: motorcycles/faq/part4
Rec-motorcycles-archive-name: faq/part4
Posting-Frequency: monthly (13th of each month)
Last-modified: 1996/03/12
Version: 2.0
URL: http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike/motofaq.html
Motorcycle FAQ Part 4: Mechanical and Personal Equipment
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Section 4: MECHANICAL (contd...)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q4.7 ===> The front brakes on my bike make a buzzing noise. I've looked all
over and can't see any loose parts. What is it?
You probably have drilled or slotted rotors. The holes often make a noise as
they move past the pads. Some bikes have floating rotors which can make
intermittent noises. In either case it's nothing to worry about.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q4.8 ===> Are drilled or slotted rotors more efficient than solid rotors?
There are many different reasons rotors are drilled or slotted. Sometimes the
rotors are drilled to lighten them, though your weight savings is probably
negligible. Honda claims the discontinuities help braking in the rain and
provide an escape route for mud or rust.
Fred Puhn's "Brake Handbook" says, "Some rotors have slots or holes machined
into their contact surfaces. These reduce hot-gas and dust particle buildup
between pad and rotor. Although fade caused by gas buildup is less for a disc
brake than for a drum brake, some fade still occurs. This is more prevalent
with large brake pads, because the hot gas has a harder time escaping than with
small pads. Therefore, slots or holes have greater effect in racing, where pads
are large and temperatures are very high."
Newcomb & Spurr's "Braking of Road Vehicles", 1967, tells us the mass of the
rotor is the primary factor for preventing brake fade. When the rotor mass has
absorbed enough heat, the brake will fade. Vented rotors and ducting schemes
will cool the rotor faster, but it takes time; in rapid repeated braking cycles
vented rotors do little better than solid ones.
Carroll Smith's "Prepare To Win", 1975, says "Lately you may have seen discs
with tangential slots milled in the friction surfaces or holes drilled in a
tangential pattern normal to the friction surface. This is an effort to wipe
the "fireband" or boundary layer off the disc before it reaches the point of
contact with the pad and to provide the very hot particles of friction material
worn off with some place to go other than the operating area."
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q4.9 ===> I have a 1973 Kawasaki Z-1. My owner's manual says it should run
premium leaded fuel. Will it hurt the engine to run unleaded? The local shop
says they need to install hardened valve seats for $400.
No. Your Kawasaki already *has* hardened valve seats. Engines with aluminum
cylinder heads must have seat inserts, as aluminum is not a suitable seat
material. Someone is trying to rip you off.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q4.10 ===> I've seen ads for light modulators that flash the headlight
and brake light. Are these really useful? Should I buy one?
In general, no. Many states and municipalities prohibit flashing lights (other
than turn signals) except on authorized emergency vehicles. Check your local
laws before you buy. Even if you're legal at home you still might pick up a
ticket elsewhere.
Flashing lights often infuriate cagers, who will then mess with you. Generally,
the cagers win.
The flashing is also *very* bad for halogen bulbs. Expect your headlight life
to be significantly decreased.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Section 5: PERSONAL EQUIPMENT/RIDING GEAR
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q5.1 ===> I'm considering the purchase of a new helmet. The one I have
doesn't feel too good for some reason, even though it's the right size.
How can I tell when a helmet fits right?
First off, helmet sizes are like shoe sizes - they're only a general guideline.
Don't expect a size 8 to be the same size from two different manufacturers.
Every brand of helmet is shaped differently inside. Of each brand, most models
are also different. The only way to find a properly fitting helmet is to cruise
the local shops and start trying them on. Try ALL of them on, not just the
expensive or pretty ones. Proper fit is more important than gaudy stripes or
fancy certification. A properly fitting DOT-rated helmet is safer than a badly
fitting Snell-rated helmet.
The helmet should fit snugly. It shouldn't clamp your ears like a vise, perch
on top of your head like a ferret wearing a coffee cup, or try to cave in your
forehead. It shouldn't have any loose areas either. As long as the chin bar
doesn't try to move your jaw back to your ears you're OK; in some helmets
you're not *supposed* to be able to touch the chin bar.
Many newer-design helmets have extensive padding in the cheek area. This
padding can cause interference with glasses. You can sometimes get the cloth
liner loose and cut reliefs with a razor blade. You can also pull the liner
loose and add extra foam to adjust the fit in any loose areas. It's not a good
idea to try to cut the styrofoam section away to adjust the fit - find a
different helmet.
Some people get upset at the idea of altering the fit of their helmet. The
decision is up to you.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q5.2 ===> The wind and engine noise from my bike get to me after a
while. Is it safe to wear earplugs when I'm riding?
I've never had a problem. I keep a couple sets of cheap foam plugs in my bike's
storage compartment; when I expect a ride to last more than half an hour or so
I put them in. They lessen the noise a lot without blocking out sirens or
screeching brakes.
In some places it is legal to drive if you're deaf, but not if you are wearing
earplugs. Check your local laws.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q5.3 ===> What's a good buy for a leather jacket?
ro...@gg.caltech.edu writes:
Things to look for in a leather jacket:
* Overall Summary:
o Thick leather is a must. This is what makes the difference between a
motorcycle jacket and a fashion jacket.
* Protection:
o Thick leather: heavy motorcycle leather (not "fashion" weight)
3-3.5oz weight or ~1-1.3mm thickness
o Elbow pads
o Shoulder pads
* Cut & Fit:
o up your back or the sleeves sliding up and leaving a gap at the
wrist.
o Sleeves really long
o Back should feel a little "hunch-backed" when standing upright (more
important on sport bikes than cruisers)
o Try it sitting on the bike.
o Fits closely in the forearms (sleeves zippered)
o Down only to hips if you dislike bunching up that longer touring
gear does.
o Make sure to leave room inside the jacked for sweaters & such.
o Don't buy anything you haven't tried on [conflicts w/ later
suggestions for buying mail order]
* Comfort/Convenience:
o Zipper front
o Flap behind zipper to keep out the cold
o High collar
o Snap-down collar to keep it from slapping your cheek/neck
o Vents (zippered) to let in air during summer; grommets at armpits
o Removable (zip out) lining
o Zippers at wrists to keep sleeves from sliding up (while you're
sliding down the road)
o Lower back support panel for when you fall down.
o Stiff leather won't flap in the wind.
o (Tie a leather thong through hole in zipper tab for easy zipping
w/gloves)
* Durability:
o Full-grain hides are preferred for repeated abrasion resistance, but
split or top grain will probably work the first time you fall down.
o Double-stitching.
* Where to buy cheap:
o Sears surplus outlet
o J.C. Whitney catalog
o Mail-order places (see ads in riding magazines)
o Pawn shops
o Check police stations for Highway Patrol officers wanting to sell
used gear.
(If calling used/pawn/surplus stores: Try to get as much info as possible
over the phone. Give your size, etc. Be sure to say motorcycle jacket,
otherwise they will say "Sure, come on over we've a fur lined brown
leather coat and a pair of disco leather patch pants.")
* Miscellaneous:
o [The MSF course I took emphasized comfort first, protection second
-- being uncomfortable increases the likelihood of an accident, and
it's most important to decrease that likelihood. Next important is
protection, so that if an accident does happen, the damage is
minimized. Discomfort includes too hot, too cold, too wet, too dry.]
o Get a jacket you really like (off the bike too); if you're like a
lot of folks, you'll wear it all the time anyway.
o Don't worry about stiffness; some new jackets need to break in.
o Hein Gericke jackets have it all, if you're willing to pay the
price. Sometimes discounters may have them cheaper than most
dealerships.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
...end of part 4
ravi narayan
Archive-name: motorcycles/faq/part5
Rec-motorcycles-archive-name: faq/part5
Posting-Frequency: monthly (13th of each month)
Last-modified: 1996/03/12
Version: 2.0
URL: http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike/motofaq.html
Motorcycle FAQ Part 5: Gear, Tires, Law and Stuff
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PERSONAL EQUIPMENT/RIDING GEAR
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q5.4 ===> Is there anything that will clean a face-shield and also remove
abrasions so that one can see through it better?
blga...@javelin.sim.es.com (Blaine Gardner) replies:
What you want are Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Plastic Polish and Plastic Cleaner.
They are very mild abrasives meant to remove scratches from plastic. For fine
scratches just use the Polish, for bigger ones start with the Cleaner and
finish with the Polish. The stuff is $5-8 bucks per bottle at most auto or
motorcycle parts stores. Don't choke over the price too much, since both
bottles will probably last you 10 years. The stuff works great on plastic watch
"crystals" and compact discs too.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q5.5 ===> What kind of abrasion resistance can I expect from various
protective gear?
blga...@javelin.sim.es.com (Blaine Gardner) replies:
In the Sept. 1988 issue of Cycle they "road tested" several grades of leather,
nylon and Kevlar. The two tests were dragging the material at 50 mph until it
failed, and running a sample on an abrasion tester until failure.
At 50 mph the results were:
"Natural Armor"
3 oz leather 86' 0"
"Strong Synthetics"
Kevlar 22' 1"
Codura Nylon 18' 3"
"The Rest"
1.75 oz leather 4' 4"
2.25 oz suede 4' 3"
Denim, 2 year old 4' 0.5"
Denim, new 3' 10"
Ballistic Nylon 3' 10"
The results were a bit different on an abrasion tester, but the overall ranking
was 3 oz leather, then the synthetics, and far behind those were denim and thin
leather. Note that the best synthetics are 1/4 as effective as HEAVY leather,
while light weight leather is considerably worse than the synthetics, and far
worse that heavy leather. Of course multiple layers of any material is better
than a single layer.
Another point not covered by the table is that a material with a hard, slick
finish is important because it resists snagging and tearing. The reason that
Cordura nylon did so much better than the thicker Ballistic nylon is that the
coarse weave of the Ballistic caught on a flaw in the road, and tore. The suede
finish leather suffered a similar fate on the road. On the other hand,
Ballistic nylon did much better on the abrasion tester where snagging was not
an issue.
[note from the Keeper: even the most abrasion-resistant clothing won't help if
you're rapidly decelerated by a cage or a tree. A set of leathers won't make
you proof against getting squashed, so be careful out there]
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Section 6: TIRES
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q6.1 ===> I'm having new tires put on my bike. Is there anything I
should watch for?
YES! Make sure the yoyos mounting the tire don't lay the wheel flat on the
floor or let it fall over. This is a good way to bend a $200 brake rotor. Good
dealers also use plastic rim protectors under the tire irons. This keeps from
scarring your expensive polished or painted wheels.
Some motorcycle tires are directional; that is, they are only supposed to
rotate in one direction. Such tires are marked with an arrow. If your tire has
an arrow, make sure it points the right way when you put the wheel back on.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Section 7: LAW
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q7.1 ===> I'll be vacationing in [some foreign country] and would like
to rent a motorcycle there. Is my [home country] license OK?
In normal circumstances, as long as you are legal in your home
country/province/state, you'll be legal elsewhere. There's also an
International Driver's License - check your local licensing or motor vehicle
authority for details.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Section 8: OTHER
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q8.1 ===> I am interested in/just bought a 19xx Yamahondasakiuki
CNGSZxxxx and I was wondering how good it is and what I should watch
out for?
lo...@frodo.Physics.McGill.CA (Loki Jorgenson) replies:
You can do one of two things:
1. Check the anonymous FTP site ftp.physics.mcgill.ca (132.206.9.13) under
~ftp/pub/DoD for reviews for various bikes, as contributed by rec.moto
members. If you don't have ftp access, you can send a request for a
specific bike or the list of available reviews to
rm-re...@physics.mcgill.ca.
2. If your bike hasn't already been reviewed, ask rec.motocycles, collect
the responses, summarize them and forward them to
rm-re...@physics.mcgill.ca.
Also, please feel free to submit your own review of any bike that you have
already ridden. There is a TEMPLATE file available at the ftp site to serve as
a guide for the information structure.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q8.2 ===> I'd like to get a bike cover. Where can I get one?
Look in the magazine ads. Here are some points to consider before buying a
cover:
* Plusses:
o keeps the sun, bird crap, and dust off your bike
o keeps feebos from sitting on it and covering it with drool and
fingerprints
o may protect the bike from gratuitous vandalism
* Minuses:
o cover acts as a giant sail; makes it easier for the wind to tip the
bike over
o dew and rain seep-through will collect under the cover, causing the
bike to rust faster
o covers seem to be popular with thieves, who will sometimes destroy
them trying to get them off
o you have to have some place to put the cover when you take it off.
I use a $8 K-Mart plastic tarp. Two ends are tied to concrete blocks, the other
two ends to chunks of 2x4. When I leave I simply flip the tarp off; when I get
back I flip it back. It keeps the sun off while allowing plenty of air
circulation.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
...end of part 5
ravi narayan
Archive-name: motorcycles/faq/part6
Rec-motorcycles-archive-name: faq/part6
Posting-Frequency: monthly (13th of each month)
Last-modified: 1996/03/12
Version: 2.0
URL: http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike/motofaq.html
Motorcycle FAQ Part 6: SideCars
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Section 9: SIDECARS
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q9.1 ===> I'm interested in adding a sidecar to my bike. What's the deal?
spe...@hailwood.asd.sgi.com (Paul Spencer) says: I posted this once before,
and have been mailing it out to those who ask. I'd love to work on it more, but
my current schedule is a little insane. Have fun. I'll critique the sidecar FAQ
you come up with if I have time. ....paul
sidecars
Having a sidecar is a lot of fun. You can ride all year, you can use it for
errands a lot more, you can carry more people, you can go on much longer trips
with others (since they can sleep in the sidecar). People come up and talk to
you a lot more; they don't have the greasy biker' syndrome.
However: sidecars are _NOT_ motorcycles. They handle very differently. I had
over ten years and over 100,000 miles of riding experience before I got a
sidecar; it wasn't very useful. Be prepared for a totally new experience. You
can get yourself into trouble just as easily as you can on a bike; but you have
many fewer options on getting yourself OUT of trouble.
Unfortunately, many bikes these days are poorly made for attaching a sidecar.
The entire outfit will be very difficult and dangerous to ride. Get expert
advice in this field. (Even if you buy a bike and sidecar as a unit, it may be
set up wrong; I'd say from informal looking around at sidecar rallies that
about 50% of outfits are badly put together, and 20% are downright unsafe).
The idea of having a sidecar that is removable is a poor one; a good sidecar
unit is just that, a unit, which is never taken apart. Many desirable
modifications that make the sidecar unit better - such as reduced trail, and
flat-profile automotive tires - make the bike unrideable as a solo anyway.
The only motorcycle manufacturer who sells sidecars is Harley Davidson. They
are excellent sidecars, and Harleys are ideal for pulling them. Adding a
sidecar to a Honda/Yamaha/Kawasaki/Suzuki /BMW motorcycle will void it's
warranty; it will also make most shops refuse to work on your bike.
Sources of more information:
United Sidecar Association (USCA)
130 S. Michigan Avenue
Villa Park, IL 60181
Regular magazine, books on building a unit, books on riding with a sidecar,
books listing all available sidecars on the market. Also offer training courses
on riding. National and regional rallies.
Hack'd Magazine
P.O. Box 17640
Portland, OR 97217
Monthly magazine. Better mag than the USCA.
California Sidecar
Garden Grove, CA
(800) 824-1523
Wide range of sport and touring sidecars; handling packages.
Motorvation Engineering
3702 Clifton Place
Montrose, CA 91020
(818) 248-9631
Both sport and touring sidecars.
BMW Motorrad of St. Louis / EML USA
4011 Forest Park Blvd.
St. Louis, MO 63108
(314) 531-4010
Sell EML and Ural sidecars, along with a lot of parts for Steibs. Lots of
handling improvement stuff. Great place, lots of free advice.
Hitchhiker Sidecar Company
1665 Cumberland S.E.
London, OH 43140
(614) 852-5373
Only make one touring-oriented sidecar, but it's well liked.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
... end of part6. end of faq.
ravi narayan
Archive-name: motorcycles/net-resources
Rec-motorcycles-archive-name: net-resources
Posting-Frequency: monthly (13th of each month)
Last-modified: 1996/03/12
Version: 2.0
URL: http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike/motofaq.html
Motorcycle FAQ Addenda: Internet Motorcycle Resources
If you wish to list your information in the list below, please respond
to the "Request for Information for Rec.Motorcycles FAQ" post, on
rec.motorcycles, posted each wednesday. If that article is not
available on your news server, you can send in your information to me,
through e-mail (r...@research.att.com) using one of the formats below
(Replying or Following-up to this message will send your response to
me).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Motorycle Sites on the World Wide Web
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
General Purpose Pages:
----------------------
Name of Site: The Motorcycle Home Page
URL: http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike
Contact: Ravi Narayan <r...@research.att.com>
Keywords: Motorcycling, DoD, Info Documents, Archives, Humour,
Picture Index
Description: General purpose site for motorcycling related documents,
Denizens of Doom info, ride info, picture indices,
mailing list archives, forsale ads, index of other motoweb
sites, things like that.
Name of Site: Motorcycle Online
URL: http://www.motorcycle.com
Contact: Brent Plummer, c...@motorcycle.com
Keywords: Motorcycle Online Magazine
Description: "The World's First and Largest All-Digital Motorcycle Magazine."
Covers everything and anything motorcycling. Extensive
archives and completly keyword searchable. The definitive
online motorcycle resource.
Name of Site: Motorcycle Tips & Techniques
URL: http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesdavis/TIPS.html
Contact: James R. Davis <james...@earthlink.net>
Keywords: Safety, Tips, Techniques, Methods, Discussions, Articles
Description: There are dozens of detailed discussions about various
aspects of street riding, touring, preventative
maintenance, and more, including a case study of a
spectacular accident involving a lady Texan rider.
All articles may be used in your not-for-profit
newsletters.
Name of Site: VirtualRally
URL: http://www.VirtualRally.com
Contact: Chase at Rally...@VirtualRally.com
Keywords: motorcycle rally events socialize fun games chat discussion
article magazine homepage links classifieds advertisement ads
Description: An on-line road rally where motorcyclists socialize, play
games, and cruise information on group riding events and
two-wheeled travel.
Personal Home Pages:
--------------------
Name of Site: Robyn Lander's Page
URL: http://www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/moto.html
Contact: Robyn Landers, rbla...@math.uwaterloo.ca
Keywords: Honda V4 Sabre Magna Interceptor
Description: tons of Honda V4 info, plus personal motorcycling stuff
Name of Site: Turbo Mike's MotoMall
URL: http://www.vni.net/~mcl/mtrcycle.htm
Contact: Michael Leonard m...@vni.net
Keywords: motorcycle links business
Description: links to motorcycle businesses and other things
Special Interest/Info Pages:
----------------------------
Name of Site: Don Gibb's Home Page (Ohio MEP Info Book)
URL: http://dgibb-pc.acs.ohio-state.edu/omephtms.htm
Contact: Donald S. Gibb <dg...@lan-services.acs.ohio-state.edu>
Keywords:
Description: The Ohio Motorcyclist Enrichment Program's Information Book
Name of Site: Italian Parts Exchange
URL: http://www.aa.net/~garage/ipe.html
Contact: Robert D. Rice/The Digital Garage email:gar...@piston.com
Keywords: Italian, parts, motorcycles, motorscooters, literature, sale,
wanted, trade, restoration
Description: The Italian Parts Exchange is a forum to bring people
together to buy, sell and trade information, parts,
literature, complete motorcycles and motorscooters and
any other related Italian memorabilia. It is a free service
designed for anyone interested in the restoration or
appreciation of Italian motorcycles and motorscooters;
enthusiast, restorer, collector or distributer.
Name of Site: Julie Holm's newbie reports.
URL: http://osf1.gmu.edu/~jholm/newbieindex.html
Contact: Julie Holm jh...@gmu.edu or ho...@vais.net
Keywords: motorcycle, MSF, education, newbie!
Description: Compilation of the newbie reports posted to rec.moto in
1995. Episodic description of a 39 year old mom of 4
leaning about and loving motorcycleing.
Name of Site: MotoCentral Special Event Site
URL: http://www.azstarnet.com/motocentral/
Contact: Joann...@msn.com
Keywords: Motorcycle; racing; special events
Description: Please head to the World Wide Web to join MotoCentral,
the Motorcycling Forum on The Microsoft Network, as we
cover the Los Angeles Superbike Championship Weekend
and Pomona Half Mile.
Name of Site: Ride for Kids / Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation of the US
URL: http://members.aol.com/Ride4Kids
Contact: Peter Tavernise <pta...@acpub.duke.edu>
Keywords: Ride; Kids; Fundraising; Brain Tumor; Foundation; Pediatric
Description: The Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation of the United States
(PBTFUS) is a non-profit charitable foundation whose
purpose is to find the cause and cure of pediatric
brain tumors through the support of medical laboratory
research. Charity rides in cities accross the US help
raise funds to help kids with brain tumors. All marques
are welcome. See the home page to learn more about how you
can participate.
Name of Site: Sportbike Etc.
URL: http://www.auburn.edu/~smitham/motor.html
Contact: smi...@aub.mindspring.com
Keywords: Suzuki, Bandit, motorcycle, Sportbike, GSX-R
Description: Web site for all people intrested in sprotbikes, There
are links to more cool places, Images of race bikes and
new bikes, along with some cool bandit things.
Name of Site: The Pits
URL: http://www.strath.ac.uk/~nau95219/index.html
Contact: Paul Jakma <paul....@strath.ac.uk>
Keywords: Motorbike Racing Fogarty Doohan Ducati suberbike grand prix
Honda Jamie Robinson Kocinski link links
Description: Anything and everything about bike racing. News and views,
and plenty of links, including a link to a bike racing
bulletin board.
Name of Site: Turbo Motorcycle International Owners Association
URL: http://www.vni.net/~mcl/tbo/tmioa.htm
Contact: Michael Leonard m...@vni.net
Keywords: turbo motorcycle club
Description: Guide to turbo motorcycle association.
Name of Site: VirtualRally
URL: http://www.VirtualRally.com
Contact: Chase at Rally...@VirtualRally.com
Keywords: motorcycle rally events socialize fun games chat discussion
article magazine homepage links classifieds advertisement ads
Description: An on-line road rally where motorcyclists socialize, play
games, and cruise information on group riding events and
two-wheeled travel.
Name of Site: Wyoming Motorcycle Safety Education Program
URL: http://www.coffey.com/~glwidup/wmsp.htm
Contact: Gary Widup (glw...@coffey.com)
Keywords: Motorcycle, safety, Wyoming
Description: Brief overview of program, schedule of classes, and
student requirements
Marque Specific Pages:
----------------------
Name of Site: Balle's GS 850L Home Page
URL: http://www.kom.auc.dk/~balle/gs.html
Contact: Henrik Balle <ba...@kom.auc.dk>
Keywords: Dedicated Suzuki GS 850 L page
Description: Under construction. Will contain own experiences with the
bike, links and what ever I cool stuff I find.
Name of Site: Honda V4 Home Page
URL: http://www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/moto.html
Contact: Robyn Landers, rbla...@math.uwaterloo.ca
Keywords: Honda V4 Sabre Magna Interceptor
Description: tons of Honda V4 info, plus personal motorcycling stuff
Name of Site: Italian Parts Exchange
URL: http://www.aa.net/~garage/ipe.html
Contact: Robert D. Rice/The Digital Garage email:gar...@piston.com
Keywords: Italian, parts, motorcycles, motorscooters, literature, sale,
wanted, trade, restoration
Description: The Italian Parts Exchange is a forum to bring people
together to buy, sell and trade information, parts,
literature, complete motorcycles and motorscooters and
any other related Italian memorabilia. It is a free service
designed for anyone interested in the restoration or
appreciation of Italian motorcycles and motorscooters;
enthusiast, restorer, collector or distributer.
Name of Site: Suzuki RG500 Mailing list home page
URL: http://web.inter.nl.net/users/Rob.Koopman
Contact: rkoo...@inter.nl.net (Rob Koopman)
Keywords: Suzuki, RG500, gamma, 2-stroke, mailing list
Description: Suzuki RG500 Mailing list home page
Name of Site: Yamaha Triples Homepage
URL: http://www.basenji.com/~xs850
Contact: Pete Wargo <pwa...@basenji.com>
Keywords: Yamaha, Triples, xs850, xs750
Description: Home page for fans of Yamaha's 4-stroke triples.
Archives (Pictures, Mailing lists, etc) Sites:
----------------------------------------------
Name of Site: East (RCR) List Archives
URL: http://mars.superlink.net/~ravi/lists/east
Contact: r...@bell-labs.com (ravi narayan)
Keywords: East riders, RCR, east mail
Description: Archives of the list: ea...@big.att.com which is intended for
co-ordinating the Annual Right Coast Ride.
Name of Site: NJ-Cycles List Archive
URL: http://mars.superlink.net/~ravi/lists/nj-cycles
Contact: r...@bell-labs.com (ravi narayan)
Keywords: NJ, List Archive
Description: Archives of the list: nj-c...@big.att.com which is
intended for discussion of motorcycling issues related to
New Jersey (USA).
Name of Site: New York City MC's Winona Mirror
URL: http://www.nylink.org/~manes/winona/
Contact: ma...@magpie.com <Steve Manes>
Keywords: FTP, WWW, Euro Bikes, Harley, Faces
Description: All the material was submitted by rec.moto and
earlier rec.moto.harley people. It contains many old
faces and some good euro bikes. This is the former Winona
server. Steve Manes of NYC took it over two months ago,
two years after the Winona server was terminated.
Club/Association Pages:
-----------------------
Name of Site: Airheads Beemer Club
URL: http://www.vni.net/~mcl/ahs/airheads.htm
Contact: Michael Leonard m...@vni.net
Keywords: airheads bmw boxer motorcycle club
Description: Guide to the Airheads club.
Name of Site: Honda Sport Touring Association
URL: http://members.aol.com/hstawww
Contact: Dennis Sullivan <sull...@winternet.com>
Keywords: Sport Touring
Description: Membership, FAQ, Events, officers, Want ads
Name of Site: Ladies' Bike Club
URL: http://www.compart.fi/~lbc/
Keywords: Finland, motorcycles, moottoripyora
Description: Ladies' Bike Club, LBC, was founded in May
1993 in Porvoo by few actively biking women.
Until then there never had been registered
organisations for female motorcyclists in Finland
Name of Site: Ride for Kids / Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation of the US
URL: http://members.aol.com/Ride4Kids
Contact: Peter Tavernise <pta...@acpub.duke.edu>
Keywords: Ride; Kids; Fundraising; Brain Tumor; Foundation; Pediatric
Description: The Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation of the United States
(PBTFUS) is a non-profit charitable foundation whose
purpose is to find the cause and cure of pediatric
brain tumors through the support of medical laboratory
research. Charity rides in cities accross the US help
raise funds to help kids with brain tumors. All marques
are welcome. See the home page to learn more about how you
can participate.
Name of Site: Turbo Motorcycle International Owners Association
URL: http://www.vni.net/~mcl/tbo/tmioa.htm
Contact: Michael Leonard m...@vni.net
Keywords: turbo motorcycle club
Description: Guide to turbo motorcycle association.
Regional Info Pages:
--------------------
Name of Site: New Jersey Cycles Home Page
URL: http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike/nj/njbikes.html
Contact: Ravi Narayan <r...@research.att.com>
Keywords: New Jersey, nj-cycles, motorcycle info
Description: Cheifly the home page for the nj-cycles mailing list.
Contains information on upcoming rides, dealers,
licensing information, etc.
Name of Site: Mainly Motorcycles
URL: http://www.cybertours.com/mmoto
Contact: Steve Kelley <ske...@cybertours.com>
Keywords: motorcycles, new england, e-zine, events listings
Description: Mainely Motorcycles is the premier on-line information
source for New England motorcyclists.
Name of Site: MC BajaHill
URL: http://www.compart.fi/bajahill
Contact: Santtu Ahonen <s...@spider.compart.fi>
Keywords: Finland, motorcycles, moottoripyora
Description: Virtual machine bike club in Helsinki, information
about Finland, links, storyes, pictures etc
Name of Site: SERIDERS Web site
URL: http://www.dorje.com:8080/mailing-lists/seriders/
Contact: Alan Fleming <al...@netone.com>
Keywords: SERIDERS archive images
Description: SERIDERs web site with articles, images, etc
Name of Site: SMOTO
URL: http://www.compart.fi/smoto/
Keywords: Finland, motorcycles, moottoripyora
description: SMOTO works actively to protect and improve
the motorcyclists' rights in the national
and nowadays also in the international level
Name of Site: Wyoming Motorcycle Safety Education Program
URL: http://www.coffey.com/~glwidup/wmsp.htm
Contact: Gary Widup (glw...@coffey.com)
Keywords: Motorcycle, safety, Wyoming
Description: Brief overview of program, schedule of classes, and
student requirements
Motorcycle E-Zines:
-------------------
Name of Site: Mainly Motorcycles
URL: http://www.cybertours.com/mmoto
Contact: Steve Kelley <ske...@cybertours.com>
Keywords: motorcycles, new england, e-zine, events listings
Description: Mainely Motorcycles is the premier on-line information
source for New England motorcyclists.
Name of Site: Motorcycle Online
URL: http://www.motorcycle.com
Contact: Brent Plummer, c...@motorcycle.com
Keywords: Motorcycle Online Magazine
Description: "The World's First and Largest All-Digital Motorcycle Magazine."
Covers everything and anything motorcycling. Extensive
archives and completly keyword searchable. The definitive
online motorcycle resource.
Name of Site: VirtualRally
URL: http://www.VirtualRally.com
Contact: Chase at Rally...@VirtualRally.com
Keywords: motorcycle rally events socialize fun games chat discussion
article magazine homepage links classifieds advertisement ads
Description: An on-line road rally where motorcyclists socialize, play
games, and cruise information on group riding events and
two-wheeled travel.
Want Ads:
---------
Name of Site: Lightning Enterprises
Contact: Steve Ward <sw...@frank.mtsu.edu>
URL: http://www.algy.com/lightning.html
Keywords: Used Motorcycles Wanted
Description: Paying top dollar for used motorcycles of recent
vintage (1985 or later) to owners in the midwest.
Call toll-free 1-800-347-5358, 9-5 EST. Will send
a representative to buy your machine for cash.
Name of Site: Italian Parts Exchange
URL: http://www.aa.net/~garage/ipe.html
Contact: Robert D. Rice/The Digital Garage email:gar...@piston.com
Keywords: Italian, parts, motorcycles, motorscooters, literature, sale,
wanted, trade, restoration
Description: The Italian Parts Exchange is a forum to bring people
together to buy, sell and trade information, parts,
literature, complete motorcycles and motorscooters and
any other related Italian memorabilia. It is a free service
designed for anyone interested in the restoration or
appreciation of Italian motorcycles and motorscooters;
enthusiast, restorer, collector or distributer.
Name of Site: Motorcycle Home Page Forsale Pages
URL: http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike
Contact: Ravi Narayan <r...@research.att.com>
Keywords: motorcycle buy/sell ads
Description: Put up buy/sell ads for motorcycles.
Name of Site: Motorcycle Online
URL: http://www.motorcycle.com
Contact: Brent Plummer, c...@motorcycle.com
Keywords: Motorcycle Online Magazine
Description: "The World's First and Largest All-Digital Motorcycle Magazine."
Covers everything and anything motorcycling. Extensive
archives and completly keyword searchable. The definitive
online motorcycle resource.
Name of Site: VirtualRally
URL: http://www.VirtualRally.com
Contact: Chase at Rally...@VirtualRally.com
Keywords: motorcycle rally events socialize fun games chat discussion
article magazine homepage links classifieds advertisement ads
Description: An on-line road rally where motorcyclists socialize, play
games, and cruise information on group riding events and
two-wheeled travel.
Motorcycle Manufacturers:
-------------------------
Motorcycle Dealers:
-------------------
Motorcycle Accessories Dealers:
-------------------------------
Name of Site: Z Custom Leathers
URL: http://www.zcustom.com
Contact: Peter Tavernise <pta...@mercury.acpub.duke.edu>
Keywords: leathers, boots, gloves, accessories, manufacturer
Description: Z Custom Leathers website allows you to customize your own
leather suit, gloves or boots, and fax your order back to
the company.
Motorcycle Parts Dealers:
-------------------------
Name of Site: Internet Motorcycle Parts
URL: http://205.162.162.100:443
Contact: Keith Lockliear djte...@www.avicom.net
Keywords: Motorcycle, Parts, Discount
Description: Your Internet Source For Discount Motorcycle Parts
List of Lists (Moto Web Sites Indices):
---------------------------------------
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Usenet Newsgroup: Rec.Motorcycles: Periodic Information Documents
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document Name: Beginner Motorcycle Info Periodic Post
Maintained by: Ravi Narayan
Post Date: 1st of each month
E-Mail: r...@research.att.com
Archive: http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike/docs/beginner.html
Description: Tips and Information for newbie motorcyclists or for those
who are interested in learning how to ride.
Document Name: Honda GB500 FAQ
Maintained By: Alan Fleming
Post Date:
E-Mail: al...@dorje.com
Archive: url: http://www.ionet.net/~jhanna/THUMPER.HTML
anon ftp: ftp.dorje.com/pub/mailing-lists/thumper/
Description: FAQ about the GB500
Document Name: Honda FT500 Ascot FAQ
Maintained by: Alan Fleming
Post Date:
E-Mail: al...@dorje.com
Archive: url: http://www.ionet.net/~jhanna/THUMPER.HTML
anon ftp: ftp.dorje.com/pub/mailing-lists/thumper/
Description: FAQ about the FT500 Ascot
Document Name: HSTA FAQ
Maintained by: Dennis J. Sullivan
Post Date:
E-Mail: sull...@winternet.com
Archive: http://www.winternet.com/~sullivan/hsta.htm
Description: About the Honda Sport Touring Association
Document Name: Rec.Motorcycle FaQ
Maintained by: Ravi Narayan
Post Date: 13th or thereabouts of each month
E-Mail: r...@research.att.com
Archive: http://vger.rutgers.edu/~ravi/bike/motofaq.html
Description: List of Answers to Frequently Asked Questions
on the Usenet newsgroup rec.motorcycles.
Document Name: Ride for Kids Ride Schedule
Maintained by: Peter Tavernise <pta...@acpub.duke.edu>
Post Date: Monthly
E-Mail: pta...@acpub.duke.edu
Archive:
Description: 1996 Ride for Kids National Event Calendar
Document Name: US Rides List
Maintained by: Steve Kelley
Post Date:
E-Mail: ske...@cybertours.com
Archive: http://www.cybertours.com/mmoto
Description: National listing of motorcyle rides, poker runs,
events by state.
Document Name: Yamaha SR500 FAQ
Maintained by: Alan Fleming
Post Date:
E-Mail: al...@dorje.com
Archive: url: http://www.ionet.net/~jhanna/THUMPER.HTML
anon ftp: ftp.dorje.com/pub/mailing-lists/thumper/
Description: FAQ about the SR500
Document Name: Yamaha SRX600 FAQ
Maintained by: Alan Fleming
Post Date:
E-Mail: al...@dorje.com
Archive: url: http://www.ionet.net/~jhanna/THUMPER.HTML
anon ftp: ftp.dorje.com/pub/mailing-lists/thumper/
Description: FAQ about the SRX600
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anonymous/Other FTP Sites on the Internet:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Site Name: THUMPER and SERIDERS Mailing List Archives
Site Address: ftp.dorje.com
Instructions: anonymous ftp (login anonymous, enter e-mail as password)
Admin Contact: Alan Fleming (al...@dorje.com)
Description: mailing lists archives for THUMPER and SERIDERS
Site Name: Motorcyle Online
Site Address: ftp.motorcycle.com
Instructions: log in as anonymous and send your e-mail address as passwd
Admin Contact: Brent Plummer, c...@motorcycle.com
Description: Extensive video archives. Users can submit material in the
/incoming directory.
Site Name: Rec.Moto Archives
Site Address: ftp.cecm.sfu.ca
Instructions: anonymous login is fine.
Admin Contact: r...@ftp.cecm.sfu.ca (Loki Jorgenson)
Description: Various reviews, FAQs, images, etc. in the directory pub/RMR.
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...end of addenda to rec.motorcycles.faq.