Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss

OT: Cage Brake Service Question

38 views
Skip to first unread message

Datesfat Chicks

unread,
May 30, 2013, 8:14:58 PM5/30/13
to
98 Ford Ranger, quite a few electrical problems that I'm too lazy to
fix.

Brakes felt funny the other day, first thing I did was look at the
BRAKE lamp on the dash to see if there was uneven pressure in the
subsections of the master cylinder. No indicator.

Cycled the ignition key to see if that bulb lit up. It didn't.

Set the parking brake to see if that bulb lit up. It didn't.

Checked the owner's manual to see if that bulb should appear on the
ignition on bulb test. It should.

Brakes are actually fine (it was maybe just my subjective impression
on that particular road).

Clearly, the pressure difference sensor in the master cylinder can't
cause brake malfunction. That isn't a risk.

However, how big of a safety issue is it to not have the instrument
panel indicator working? Is it fair to classify it as a safety item
or not?

If it is, I'll fix it. If not, I won't.

I welcome all paradigms of thought.

I'm leaning in the direction of believing it is a safety issue to not
have the indicator working.

Thanks, DFC

Bill Vanek

unread,
May 30, 2013, 9:02:45 PM5/30/13
to
According to the manual, what else is that indicator for?

Regardless, it's probably a bulb or its socket, so why not just change
it? I mean it's a warning light, and it's for the brakes, so I would
say safety enters into it.

Mark Olson

unread,
May 30, 2013, 9:16:57 PM5/30/13
to
On 5/30/2013 7:14 PM, Datesfat Chicks wrote:

[re: brake warning lamp burnt out]

> I'm leaning in the direction of believing it is a safety issue to not
> have the indicator working.

Well, duh.

Yeah, if you could just stop over-analyzing stuff that everyone else
in the world with a pair of functioning brain cells can figure out
in about 10 nanoseconds, that would be great.

Can it tell you about all possible brake failures? Not by a long shot.
But it can't tell you about ANY possible failures unless it's working.





Datesfat Chicks

unread,
May 30, 2013, 9:44:12 PM5/30/13
to
On Thu, 30 May 2013 20:16:57 -0500, Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid>
wrote:

>On 5/30/2013 7:14 PM, Datesfat Chicks wrote:
>
>[re: brake warning lamp burnt out]
>
>> I'm leaning in the direction of believing it is a safety issue to not
>> have the indicator working.
>
>Well, duh.
>
>Yeah, if you could just stop over-analyzing stuff that everyone else
>in the world with a pair of functioning brain cells can figure out
>in about 10 nanoseconds, that would be great.

Get your panties properly adjusted.

What I was looking for was some sort of an analysis suggesting that
the brake warning wasn't a safety issue. Perhaps there would always
be other symptoms of unequal pressures in the master cylinder, or
there was some other reason the warning light was superfluous. I'm
not finding any evidence that it isn't a safety issue, so it is a
safety issue.

The question was ultimately reasonable. I was looking for some reason
not to spend time and energy fixing it. It looks like I'll be fixing
it. I might get dirty or break a nail or something.

Dean Hoffman

unread,
May 30, 2013, 9:56:17 PM5/30/13
to
On 5/30/13 7:14 PM, Datesfat Chicks wrote:
> 98 Ford Ranger, quite a few electrical problems that I'm too lazy to
> fix.
>
> Brakes felt funny the other day, first thing I did was look at the
> BRAKE lamp on the dash to see if there was uneven pressure in the
> subsections of the master cylinder. No indicator.
>
> Cycled the ignition key to see if that bulb lit up. It didn't.

Some cut due to quotation limits.

> However, how big of a safety issue is it to not have the instrument
> panel indicator working? Is it fair to classify it as a safety item
> or not?
>
> If it is, I'll fix it. If not, I won't.
>
> I welcome all paradigms of thought.
>
> I'm leaning in the direction of believing it is a safety issue to not
> have the indicator working.
>
> Thanks, DFC
>

You could just pretend the Ranger is an antique vehicle that
didn't come with a brake light. I wonder if Harleys have them.
I don't remember when manufacturers started installing brake lights.

Bill Vanek

unread,
May 30, 2013, 10:02:27 PM5/30/13
to
On Thu, 30 May 2013 21:44:12 -0400, Datesfat Chicks
<datesfa...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Perhaps there would always
> be other symptoms of unequal pressures in the master cylinder

There would, like a quintupling of stopping distance when the front
brakes stop working.

Datesfat Chicks

unread,
May 30, 2013, 10:16:39 PM5/30/13
to
You may have misread my post.

My understanding is that there is a switch in the master cylinder that
senses unequal pressures in the two compartments of the master
cylinder.

This switch is different than the brakelight switch?

DFC

Dean Hoffman

unread,
May 30, 2013, 10:21:45 PM5/30/13
to
On 5/30/13 9:16 PM, Datesfat Chicks wrote:
>>
> You may have misread my post.
>
> My understanding is that there is a switch in the master cylinder that
> senses unequal pressures in the two compartments of the master
> cylinder.
>
> This switch is different than the brakelight switch?
>
> DFC
>
>> You could just pretend the Ranger is an antique vehicle that
>> didn't come with a brake light. I wonder if Harleys have them.
>> I don't remember when manufacturers started installing brake lights.
>
I did a lousy job of proofreading my post. Brake warning light is
what I meant to say in the first sentence. Brake warning lights is what
I meant to say in the second sentence.

CS

unread,
May 30, 2013, 11:42:07 PM5/30/13
to
"Datesfat Chicks" wrote in message
news:kiqfq89fsieqtuj4n...@4ax.com...

98 Ford Ranger, quite a few electrical problems that I'm too lazy to
fix.

Brakes felt funny the other day, first thing I did was look at the
BRAKE lamp on the dash to see if there was uneven pressure in the
subsections of the master cylinder. No indicator.

<snip>

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If memory serves, you should have anti-lock brakes. If there's a problem
with the system, the light should come on.

Same goes with burned out brake light.

You probably want it working.

I don't recall whether it's an easy job or not-so-easy. Depending on how
not-so-easy it is, you may want to consider LED replacements, and replace
all of the dash lights at the same time with LEDs.

I got rid of my 97 Ranger when I got some stupid electrical problems, like
the dome light switch in the doors, which are quite literally inside the
doors, requiring a whole lot of expensive drama to repair. I had to wait
about a minute before the dome light shut off on its own. Silly shit.

Otherwise it was a good truck...underpowered for a V6, but it wasn't too
bad.

Anyway, I highly recommend you fix it.

CS

Kevin Bottorff

unread,
May 31, 2013, 10:43:41 AM5/31/13
to
"CS" <dont...@sears.com> wrote in
news:UbmdnZtf15WKgTXM...@supernews.com:

> "Datesfat Chicks" wrote in message
> news:kiqfq89fsieqtuj4n...@4ax.com...
>
> 98 Ford Ranger, quite a few electrical problems that I'm too lazy to
> fix.
>
> Brakes felt funny the other day, first thing I did was look at the
> BRAKE lamp on the dash to see if there was uneven pressure in the
> subsections of the master cylinder. No indicator.
>
> <snip>
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> If memory serves, you should have anti-lock brakes. If there's a
> problem with the system, the light should come on.
>
> Same goes with burned out brake light.
>
> You probably want it working.
>
> I don't recall whether it's an easy job or not-so-easy. Depending on
> how not-so-easy it is, you may want to consider LED replacements, and
> replace all of the dash lights at the same time with LEDs.
>
> I got rid of my 97 Ranger when I got some stupid electrical problems,
> like the dome light switch in the doors, which are quite literally
> inside the doors, requiring a whole lot of expensive drama to repair.

you are makeing something out of nothing. door switch is easy to replace,
no big drama. also many time just soaking the latch with any good
penatrating oil would get it to working as it worked it way down to the
switch.

> I had to wait about a minute before the dome light shut off on its
> own.

uhhh its supposted to do that, had a timer on that circuit.


> Silly shit.
> Otherwise it was a good truck...underpowered for a V6, but it wasn't
> too bad.

ya the 3.0 were a joke. poor milage no power.

>
> Anyway, I highly recommend you fix it.
>
> CS
>
>

98 probably won`t have the optional anti-lock brakes so thankfully you
won`t have to piss with that horrable system.
KB

T.J. Higgins

unread,
May 31, 2013, 10:55:35 AM5/31/13
to
In article <kiqfq89fsieqtuj4n...@4ax.com>, Datesfat Chicks wrote:
>98 Ford Ranger, quite a few electrical problems that I'm too lazy to
>fix.
>
> <snip>
>
>I welcome all paradigms of thought.

If you're still running the original brake fluid after 15 years,
I'd be more worried about that than an idiot light.

--
TJH
tjhiggin.at.hiwaay.dot.net

CS

unread,
May 31, 2013, 4:45:29 PM5/31/13
to
"Kevin Bottorff" wrote in message news:koacut$lv3$1...@news.albasani.net...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Fixing the switch is easy.

Except...

It was not an NO switch screwed into the door frame, like just about every
other car out there.

It was a switch buried in the frame, requiring removal of seats, trim
seatbelt, and whatever else sitting between the switch and the outside
world. The dealer quoted me something like $450 in labor to fix it.

CS

Kevin Bottorff

unread,
May 31, 2013, 6:05:22 PM5/31/13
to
"CS" <dont...@sears.com> wrote in
news:zZOdnWAP1clvljTM...@supernews.com:
I am sorry but the dealer was trying to screw you. it is under the door
latch inside the door. have done many of them. a hour should have covered
it labor wise. KB

Datesfat Chicks

unread,
May 31, 2013, 10:19:36 PM5/31/13
to
On Thu, 30 May 2013 20:42:07 -0700, "CS" <dont...@sears.com> wrote:

>"Datesfat Chicks" wrote in message
>news:kiqfq89fsieqtuj4n...@4ax.com...
>
>98 Ford Ranger, quite a few electrical problems that I'm too lazy to
>fix.
>
>Brakes felt funny the other day, first thing I did was look at the
>BRAKE lamp on the dash to see if there was uneven pressure in the
>subsections of the master cylinder. No indicator.
>
><snip>
>
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>If memory serves, you should have anti-lock brakes. If there's a problem
>with the system, the light should come on.
>
>Same goes with burned out brake light.
>
>You probably want it working.
>
>I don't recall whether it's an easy job or not-so-easy. Depending on how
>not-so-easy it is, you may want to consider LED replacements, and replace
>all of the dash lights at the same time with LEDs.
>

Thanks thanks thanks.

It looks rather hard to get to the lamps in the instrument cluster.
Didn't know there were LED replacements available. Great idea.

>I got rid of my 97 Ranger when I got some stupid electrical problems, like
>the dome light switch in the doors, which are quite literally inside the
>doors, requiring a whole lot of expensive drama to repair. I had to wait
>about a minute before the dome light shut off on its own. Silly shit.

Ah, the mysteries of the universe continue to be revealed on reeky.

I have the same problem with the dome light switches. It gets
entertaining sometimes because the built-in alarm will go off in
reaction to the switch problem(s) after the vehicle has been parked
for a while. One time it interrupted a management meeting ... it was
funny they found me at my desk and asked me to make my truck stop
making noise.

But I looked for the switches and didn't find them immediately ...
you've explained why.

CS

unread,
May 31, 2013, 10:33:44 PM5/31/13
to
"Kevin Bottorff" wrote in message news:kob6r2$emq$1...@news.albasani.net...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Well shit me!

Guess I shouldn't be too surprised. Finding a dealer to screw me has never
been too tough.

Even the Honda dealer try to strap on the Black Mamba. Tried selling me a
fuel injection cleaning and engine flush.

Bastards.

Thanks for the info on the Ranger!

CS

CS

unread,
May 31, 2013, 10:41:47 PM5/31/13
to
"Datesfat Chicks" wrote in message
news:e8miq81t0btihvqfd...@4ax.com...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Check out Kevin Bottoroff's posts. He seems to know more about the door
switches than I.

You should be able to find the LED replacements at a local auto shop.
Otherwise check out www.superbrightleds.com. I've bought from them before.
They're cheap and quick. You can replace pretty much everything except your
headlights with LED's. It gets pricey, and you probably need to upgrade
your relay if you replace your turn signal bulbs*, but the rest can be done
with little trouble. I haven't done it with my vehicles because I'm broke.

I do plan on doing it with my Valkyrie at some point.

*Stay away from load balancers or other bullshit solutions to the
speedy-blinker-issue. Big, expensive resistors are more trouble than
they're worth. A simple electronic relay in place of the thermal/mechanical
relay is best.

CS

High Plains Thumper

unread,
Jun 1, 2013, 7:11:37 AM6/1/13
to
On 05/30/2013 07:44 PM, Datesfat Chicks wrote:

> What I was looking for was some sort of an analysis suggesting that
> the brake warning wasn't a safety issue. Perhaps there would always
> be other symptoms of unequal pressures in the master cylinder, or
> there was some other reason the warning light was superfluous. I'm
> not finding any evidence that it isn't a safety issue, so it is a
> safety issue.

I had an odd situation with my Savage's tail light. For some reason it
wasn't working (stop and tail). Elements in the bulb looked fine, both
of them, they weren't broken or burnt out. I removed the tank and seat,
started checking the wiring, it was fine. Huh? Then I put an Ohm meter
to the bulb elements. Neither had continuity.

Lesson learned: Just because a bulb looks visually good doesn't mean it
is good. I could have spared myself all the time and trouble if I
checked the bulb first. A new bulb fixed the problem.

Have you tested the bulb?

--
HPT
George Hostler
1987 Suzuki LS650 Savage
1971 Honda CB100

Rob Kleinschmidt

unread,
Jun 1, 2013, 3:42:10 PM6/1/13
to
On Saturday, June 1, 2013 4:11:37 AM UTC-7, High Plains Thumper wrote:

> Lesson learned: Just because a bulb looks visually good doesn't mean it
> is good. I could have spared myself all the time and trouble if I
> checked the bulb first. A new bulb fixed the problem.

> Have you tested the bulb?

Second that thought. Better yet, just swap the bulb.
I've been badly fooled by an intermittent bulb in the past.

Mark Olson

unread,
Jun 1, 2013, 5:03:51 PM6/1/13
to
Not to mention that it's false economy to try to reuse instrument
lamp bulbs in your dashboard, given the amount of effort it usually
takes to get in there, and how cheap they are.

If you have to remove the instrument cluster to replace a bulb,
replace all the bulbs while you have it out.


Kevin Bottorff

unread,
Jun 1, 2013, 5:11:08 PM6/1/13
to
"CS" <dont...@sears.com> wrote in
news:G7idnf7dNcwMwDTM...@supernews.com:
if you need to know anything about a ranger just ask, becides working on
them for years, I have 5 of my own. :) KB

Chuck Rhode

unread,
Jun 1, 2013, 7:38:50 PM6/1/13
to
On Sat, 01 Jun 2013 16:03:51 -0500
Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid> wrote:

> If you have to remove the instrument cluster to replace a bulb,
> replace all the bulbs while you have it out.

Plus new ones're brigher.

--
.. Be Seeing You,
.. Chuck Rhode, Sheboygan, WI, USA
.. Weather: http://LacusVeris.com/WX
.. 74° — Wind SSE 12 mph — Sky partly cloudy.

Chuck Rhode

unread,
Jun 1, 2013, 7:39:37 PM6/1/13
to
On Sat, 1 Jun 2013 18:38:50 -0500
Chuck Rhode <CRh...@LacusVeris.com> wrote:

> Plus new ones're brigher.

Yeah, brighter.

High Plains Thumper

unread,
Jun 2, 2013, 5:24:32 PM6/2/13
to
Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
> High Plains Thumper wrote:
>
>> Have you tested the bulb?
>
> Second that thought. Better yet, just swap the bulb. I've been badly
> fooled by an intermittent bulb in the past.

If you got a spare, that's great. I didn't have one on hand.

Twibil

unread,
Jun 2, 2013, 8:34:43 PM6/2/13
to
On Jun 2, 2:24 pm, High Plains Thumper <h...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
> > High Plains Thumper wrote:
>
> >> Have you tested the bulb?
>
> > Second that thought. Better yet, just swap the bulb. I've been badly
> > fooled by an intermittent bulb in the past.
>
> If you got a spare, that's great. I didn't have one on hand.

To pin down the problem you don't have to have
"a spare".

Just swap out the non-working one with one of the
others that you know is functional.

If the replacement bulb works you know the first one
was bad.

High Plains Thumper

unread,
Jun 2, 2013, 9:49:24 PM6/2/13
to
Twibil wrote:

> To pin down the problem you don't have to have "a spare".
>
> Just swap out the non-working one with one of the others that you
> know is functional.
>
> If the replacement bulb works you know the first one was bad.

Mine has only one stop bulb.

Twibil

unread,
Jun 2, 2013, 10:19:13 PM6/2/13
to
On Jun 2, 6:49 pm, High Plains Thumper <h...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> Twibil wrote:
> > To pin down the problem you don't have to have "a spare".
>
> > Just swap out the non-working one with one of the others that you
> > know is functional.
>
> > If the replacement bulb works you know the first one was bad.
>
> Mine has only one stop bulb.

It isn't the same as the turn signal bulbs?

That's a bit unusual these days.

Rob Kleinschmidt

unread,
Jun 2, 2013, 10:44:31 PM6/2/13
to
On Sunday, June 2, 2013 6:49:24 PM UTC-7, High Plains Thumper wrote:
> Twibil wrote:

> > To pin down the problem you don't have to have "a spare".

> > Just swap out the non-working one with one of the others that you
> > know is functional.

> > If the replacement bulb works you know the first one was bad.

> Mine has only one stop bulb.

Seems likely that all the idiot lights on your dash
use the same bulb type and even more likely that they
use bulb types close enough to be interchangeable.

My bike dash uses a 194 or 168 wedge type bulb, both
readily available at Kragen or Pep Boys and cheap enough
that I can spend another buck for a couple spares.

High Plains Thumper

unread,
Jun 3, 2013, 2:54:39 PM6/3/13
to
Twibil wrote:
> High Plains Thumper wrote:
>
>> Mine has only one stop bulb.
>
> It isn't the same as the turn signal bulbs? That's a bit unusual
> these days.

Front, yes, back, no.

Matter of semantics. I know how to use an Ohmmeter, have one available.
Why undo 2 screws when a quick check with a meter does the same?

High Plains Thumper

unread,
Jun 3, 2013, 3:00:03 PM6/3/13
to
Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
> High Plains Thumper wrote:
>
> Seems likely that all the idiot lights on your dash use the same
> bulb type and even more likely that they use bulb types close enough
> to be interchangeable.

Was referring to the 2 element backlight stop bulb.

> My bike dash uses a 194 or 168 wedge type bulb, both readily
> available at Kragen or Pep Boys and cheap enough that I can spend
> another buck for a couple spares.

Carried an extra halogen headlight bulb, until trunk contents shifted
and crushed box, bulb and all. Also seems nothing's safe on a one lunger
bike that vibrates as much as an old Harley frame hard mount engine
Sportster.

Twibil

unread,
Jun 3, 2013, 6:42:21 PM6/3/13
to
On Jun 3, 11:54 am, High Plains Thumper <h...@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> Twibil wrote:
> > High Plains Thumper wrote:
>
> >> Mine has only one stop bulb.
>
> > It isn't the same as the turn signal bulbs? That's a bit unusual
> > these days.
>
> Front, yes, back, no.
>
> Matter of semantics. I know how to use an Ohmmeter, have one available.
> Why undo 2 screws when a quick check with a meter does the same?

Um, the reason I mentioned it is that it would still
have been a lot easier than removing the tank
and the seat to check the wiring: which is how
you said you started out.

Call it a whim, but I always try to do the easiest
diagnostic stuff first and reserve DEFCON 3
for situations where the easy stuff failed to
resolve the problem.

Rob Kleinschmidt

unread,
Jun 4, 2013, 1:04:05 AM6/4/13
to
On Monday, June 3, 2013 12:00:03 PM UTC-7, High Plains Thumper wrote:
> Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
>
> > High Plains Thumper wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Seems likely that all the idiot lights on your dash use the same
>
> > bulb type and even more likely that they use bulb types close enough
>
> > to be interchangeable.
>
>
>
> Was referring to the 2 element backlight stop bulb.

When he talked about a BRAKE light not working, I think
the OP was referring to a wedge bulb idiot light on the
dash.

> Carried an extra halogen headlight bulb, until trunk contents shifted
> and crushed box, bulb and all. Also seems nothing's safe on a one lunger
> bike that vibrates as much as an old Harley frame hard mount engine
> Sportster.

I've run a Trucklites LED tail light for a number of years.
Big square LED light that never burns out and is shock mounted
in a rubber grommet. I beat up my bike on bad dirt roads quite
a bit and it continues to function nicely. The headlight is
rubber mounted from the factory and has also held up well. I
don't worry too much about a dual filament H4 buld anyway, as
most likely, only one filament will fail.

tomorrow

unread,
Jun 4, 2013, 7:05:35 AM6/4/13
to
On May 30, 9:44 pm, Datesfat Chicks <datesfat.chi...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 30 May 2013 20:16:57 -0500, Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid>
> wrote:
>
> >On 5/30/2013 7:14 PM, Datesfat Chicks wrote:
>
> >[re: brake warning lamp burnt out]
>
> >> I'm leaning in the direction of believing it is a safety issue to not
> >> have the indicator working.
>
> >Well, duh.
>
> >Yeah, if you could just stop over-analyzing stuff that everyone else
> >in the world with a pair of functioning brain cells can figure out
> >in about 10 nanoseconds, that would be great.
>
> Get your panties properly adjusted.
>
> What I was looking for was some sort of an analysis suggesting that
> the brake warning wasn't a safety issue.  Perhaps there would always
> be other symptoms of unequal pressures in the master cylinder, or
> there was some other reason the warning light was superfluous.  I'm
> not finding any evidence that it isn't a safety issue, so it is a
> safety issue.
>
> The question was ultimately reasonable.  I was looking for some reason
> not to spend time and energy fixing it.  It looks like I'll be fixing
> it.  I might get dirty or break a nail or something.
>
>
>
> >Can it tell you about all possible brake failures? Not by a long shot.
> >But it can't tell you about ANY possible failures unless it's working.

All I could think while reading this was "Is he the guy that decided
to give up motorcycles? Please say he's the guy who decided to give
up motorcycles!!!"

tomorrow

unread,
Jun 4, 2013, 7:12:34 AM6/4/13
to
On May 31, 10:19 pm, Datesfat Chicks <datesfat.chi...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> >CS- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Heh. My son is a Ford-certified master technician. He left Ford and
started his own independent shp three years ago. He has been working
on my GM trucks for over a decade.

He recommends GM trucks to his clientele.

High Plains Thumper

unread,
Jun 4, 2013, 10:24:15 AM6/4/13
to
Twibil wrote:

> Um, the reason I mentioned it is that it would still have been a lot
> easier than removing the tank and the seat to check the wiring:
> which is how you said you started out.

Hind sight is 20-20, isn't it?

MikeWhy

unread,
Jun 5, 2013, 1:06:43 AM6/5/13
to
On 06/04/2013 07:12 AM, tomorrow wrote:
> He recommends GM trucks to his clientele.

Brand bias? Say it ain't so. That's like so last decade.

tomorrow

unread,
Jun 13, 2013, 12:57:11 PM6/13/13
to
He recommends them when they ask him which truck - in his professional
experience as a certified, expert mechanic - will be likely to spend
less time in the shop.

If you want to call that brand bias, go right ahead. I'd call it a
hard-earned professional opinion based on the result of ten years of
experience working on GM, Ford, and Chrysler trucks.

MikeWhy

unread,
Jun 20, 2013, 9:38:17 PM6/20/13
to
As though one commodity brand of domestically assembled means of medium
duty haulage is clearly superior to the other commodity brands?

I can see how the irony was missed, two weeks removed from a string of
diatribes one of us posted on brand bias in motorcycle discussions.
That's just one of the things that makes usenet so much fun.

(Ten years can be reasonably termed mid-career. Congrats, I think.)

tomorrow

unread,
Jun 21, 2013, 7:42:16 AM6/21/13
to
On Thursday, June 20, 2013 9:38:17 PM UTC-4, MikeWhy wrote:
>
As though one commodity brand of domestically assembled means of medium duty haulage is clearly superior to the other commodity brands? I can see how the irony was missed, two weeks removed from a string of diatribes one of us posted on brand bias in motorcycle discussions. That's just one of the things that makes usenet so much fun.

I don't think I said that my son claims that GM trucks are "clearly superior" to other brands of trucks. I certainly don't. Never have. Never will. If you think it is irony for me to mention that my son responds truthfully and helpfully to his clients who ask him questions based on his professional experience; while I think that people who have never ridden a certain brand of motorcycle nevertheless take every opportunity to bash that brand, then you have a different definition of irony than I do.

That's just one of the things that makes usenet so fun.

MikeWhy

unread,
Jun 23, 2013, 2:51:47 PM6/23/13
to
Someone stop me from extolling the virtues of my LG dishwasher, or
Maytag washer dryer.

tomorrow

unread,
Jun 24, 2013, 7:56:45 AM6/24/13
to
On Sunday, June 23, 2013 2:51:47 PM UTC-4, MikeWhy wrote:
> On 6/21/2013 7:42 AM, tomorrow wrote: > On Thursday, June 20, 2013 9:38:17 PM UTC-4, MikeWhy wrote: >> > As though one commodity brand of domestically assembled means of medium duty haulage is clearly superior to the other commodity brands? I can see how the irony was missed, two weeks removed from a string of diatribes one of us posted on brand bias in motorcycle discussions. That's just one of the things that makes usenet so much fun. > > I don't think I said that my son claims that GM trucks are "clearly superior" to other brands of trucks. I certainly don't. Never have. Never will. If you think it is irony for me to mention that my son responds truthfully and helpfully to his clients who ask him questions based on his professional experience; while I think that people who have never ridden a certain brand of motorcycle nevertheless take every opportunity to bash that brand, then you have a different definition of irony than I do. > > That's just one of the things that makes usenet so fun. > Someone stop me from extolling the virtues of my LG dishwasher, or Maytag washer dryer.

I have a Maytag dishwasher and GE washer and dryer. I love them. They are very reliable and do a good job - although you do have to be careful how much dishwashing detergent that you put in the Maytag dishwasher; if you use the recommended amount, you get a lot of streaking on glasses. Using about half the recommended amount seems to work fine.

How much detergent do you have to use with your LG dishwasher?

MikeWhy

unread,
Jun 24, 2013, 6:49:17 PM6/24/13
to
tomorrow <s4rs...@yahoo.com> Wrote in message:
I dunno. A measure of its success is the wife took full ownership
immediately on delivery. I only know that I have to go out of my
way to even hear it in operation. The two together will have to
suffice as testimony to its superiority.
--




----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://www.piaohong.tk/newsgroup
0 new messages