Tank sealer KBS -V- POR 15
FR
Are they comperable? I have used Kreem in the past. But never again.
I am hoping for a harder more durable long term fix.
Bets regards,
frp
Rob Kleinschmidt
I had pretty good luck with POR-15 but eventually
got the tank welded a couple years later when
a hairline crack finally re-opened. For a crack
near a mount bracket, welding was a better fix.
I had minor problems with a POR-15 buildup on
the inside of the petcocks and I had to open
them out a little so I could slide the petcock
and filter back in.
When it was draining, I'd left a cut open soda
can under the petcock to catch the last drips.
When I came back a while later, the POR-15 had
apparantly eaten into the aluminum can and
run off, making a small mess to clean up. It
seems to react strongly with aluminum.
If I were doing the job again, I might also
consider welding, brazing, soldering, a two
part epoxy or "red slosh" aircraft compound.
POR-15 would still be on my candidates list
though.
Albertus Cornelis
<03b59501-1f1f-4c6c...@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups.com>,
Rob Kleinschmidt <Rkleinsc...@aol.com> wrote:
I used tankcure, its clear and it closed little holes, have a look here
http://www.tankcure.com/
--
Groeten Bert.
Mark Olson
I have never used POR-15 but I have used Kreem more than once. I
used KBS on the last tank I sealed. KBS seems extremely tough,
where I spilled it on my rollaround cabinet, nothing has taken it
off, so far. For best results with any tank sealant, you still
have to do all the normal de-rusting and cleaning steps. You also
have to rig up some sort of blower to make sure the coating dries
completely (3-4 days is recommended!) before you use it.
I would use KBS again.
--
'07 FJ13AW '99 EX250-F13
OMF #7
Pip Luscher
I haven't but a mate has recently used POR 15. So far, so good. Hard
work (or just good exercise) shaking the tank for the recommended
time, apparently.
--
-Pip
Ian Singer
> If I were doing the job again, I might also
> consider welding, brazing, soldering, a two
> part epoxy or "red slosh" aircraft compound.
> POR-15 would still be on my candidates list
> though.
I tried the following on my tank after sanding the paint off and
enlarging the pinholes slightly. All failed.
JB Weld
muffler putty
body filler cream
two part epoxy putty that dries like steel, can be sanded and will cure
under water.
Ian Singer
--
=========================================================================
See my homepage at http://www.iansinger.com
hosted on http://www.1and1.com/?k_id=10623894
All genealogy is stored in TMG from http://www.whollygenes.com
Charts and searching using TNG from http://www.tngsitebuilding.com
I am near Toronto Canada, can I tell where you are from your reply?
=========================================================================
Mark Olson
> Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
>
>> If I were doing the job again, I might also
>> consider welding, brazing, soldering, a two
>> part epoxy or "red slosh" aircraft compound.
>> POR-15 would still be on my candidates list
>> though.
>
>
> I tried the following on my tank after sanding the paint off and
> enlarging the pinholes slightly. All failed.
> JB Weld
> muffler putty
> body filler cream
> two part epoxy putty that dries like steel, can be sanded and will cure
> under water.
You might have also tried house paint, mayonnaise mixed with
yeast, fish scales and beeswax, etc.
Thank you for eliminating those four possible sealants from the list of
possibilities. Did you ever consider using a product that is actually
made specifically for sealing pinholes in gas tanks, such as Kreem,
POR-15, KBS, or any of the other gas tank sealants that are specially
formulated to be impervious to gasoline and alcohol?
--
'07 FJR13AW '99 EX250-F13
OMF #7
Ian Singer
> Did you ever consider using a product that is actually
> made specifically for sealing pinholes in gas tanks, such as Kreem,
> POR-15, KBS, or any of the other gas tank sealants that are specially
> formulated to be impervious to gasoline and alcohol?
Yes I tried the epoxy putty that was specifically meant as a gas tank
sealer and it did not work. Thats why I tried the other options.
George
"FR" <4bo...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:U6WdnYx6eZXXX9_V...@earthlink.com...
Mark Olson
> Mark Olson wrote:
>
>> Did you ever consider using a product that is actually
>> made specifically for sealing pinholes in gas tanks, such as Kreem,
>> POR-15, KBS, or any of the other gas tank sealants that are specially
>> formulated to be impervious to gasoline and alcohol?
>
> Yes I tried the epoxy putty that was specifically meant as a gas tank
> sealer and it did not work. Thats why I tried the other options.
Are you talking about the stuff that comes in a two-part stick
similar to modeling clay, that you mix together? If so, that is
nothing like the products I mentioned and I am not surprised
it didn't fix your problem. Kreem, POR-15, KBS and all other
gas tank sealants of that type are a liquid coating that covers
the entire inside surface of the tank. If you properly de-rust
and prep the tank, they cannot fail to work.
CB...@webtv.net
MAIN thing with Por-15 is DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY !
between steps.Take your time doing each step to make sure you'll get a
good bond on the sealer.The sealer WILL seal small pin hole leaks.
DO NOT GET THE SEALER WHERE YOU DON'T WANT IT! I use a pistol
style hair dryer that I taped a toilet paper roll to the
gun end.This allows the dryer to sit on an angle and dry the tank.If you
try to put the nozzle straight into the tank,the dryer will shut off as
it will over heat.I probably over do the drying (a day each between
steps) but Por-15 says 1 drop of water will make the sealant
ineffective.YOU CAN'T STATIC DRY A TANK NO MATTER HOW LONG YOU LEAVE IT
SIT!
DRY DRY DRY DRY DR DRY DRY between steps! I didn't think 1 pint
was enough for the
7 1/2 gallon Concours tank (IT WAS) so I ordered the quart.Had A LOT
left over.I use a steel wood stove that had slight rust on the top to
heat my house.Didn't prep it just used a cloth to wipe the rust off and
used the sealer to coat the top of the stove.It has been through 5
heating seasons and is like brand new. I realize that's not the regular
use but hey it worked.
If it dries on anything you WON'T get it off without destroying
whatever it's on.
Don't forget to DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY between steps. I have NEVER
heard of anyone having the Por-15 peel off (Don't know how
it could) so it's MUCH BETTER than kreem.To many horror stories about
kreem.
Jack Hunt
>To many horror stories about kreem.
If you followed the DRY DRY DRY and CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN instructions with Kreem,
you'd be just as happy with it for sealing tanks. One speck of rust left in the
tank or one drop of water left in the tank will lead to a horror story with any
sealant.
Kreem probably wouldn't work very well on a wood heater, though. ;-)
--
Jack
Rick Cortese
> Mark Olson wrote:
>
>> Did you ever consider using a product that is actually
>> made specifically for sealing pinholes in gas tanks, such as Kreem,
>> POR-15, KBS, or any of the other gas tank sealants that are specially
>> formulated to be impervious to gasoline and alcohol?
>
>
> Yes I tried the epoxy putty that was specifically meant as a gas tank
> sealer and it did not work. Thats why I tried the other options.
>
> Ian Singer
>
>
Seriously: As long as you are at it, try soldering too. Get a nice
propane torch, flux, solder suitable for steel like that made for
radiators, and have at it.
You may want to practice on a piece of sheet metal != a tank. You have
to clean/sand a much larger area and heat the work piece maybe 1"-2"
away from where you will actually make the repair to keep the surface
from oxidizing so the solder will stick.
I prefer to use an Oxy/acetlyene torch so I can deliberately run it too
rich and this keeps the clean part from oxidizing. You can do it with a
propane torch, you just have to keep the flame from the work area, kind
of like
Where you apply the heat. Where you folow solder. Hole
**** xxxxxxx OOOOO
As the solder melts and covers the metal, you can move the flame towards
the hole, but you never actually apply the flame there. If anything, you
circle around the hole giving it a wide berth and flow solder to the center.
Rick
Ian Singer
> Are you talking about the stuff that comes in a two-part stick
> similar to modeling clay, that you mix together?
Yes, that is what I tried. My Suzuki had pinholes and a small crack that
was about 1/4" long at the back end of the tank.
Ian Singer
> Seriously: As long as you are at it, try soldering too. Get a nice
> propane torch, flux, solder suitable for steel like that made for
> radiators, and have at it.
Only if you can be sure that there are ZERO fumes in the tank. Flushing
it out with water, and leaving in the sun to dry for a week, is not good
enough.
Ian Singer
> Try " Red Coat " http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html
Not to be used with gasoline containing more than 5% methanol. In the
US E85 gas has 15% alcohol. In Canada 10% Methanol is standard.
The suggest using MEK to absorb moisture first and then letting it air
dry. MEK is very dangerous, is directly absorbed through the skin and
should not be disposed of that way.
Mark Olson
> George wrote:
>
>> Try " Red Coat " http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html
>
>
> Not to be used with gasoline containing more than 5% methanol. In the
> US E85 gas has 15% alcohol. In Canada 10% Methanol is standard.
No, E85 is 85 percent ethanol/15 percent gasoline. In many US states the
normal unleaded gasoline is E10, or 10 percent ethanol/gasoline mixture.
I don't know for sure, but I *strongly* suspect you are mistaken about
Canada using 10 percent methanol in gasoline. Methanol is more problematic
to automotive fuel systems than ethanol, and 10% methanol would cause a
lot of problems in non-flex fuel vehicles.
> The suggest using MEK to absorb moisture first and then letting it air
> dry. MEK is very dangerous, is directly absorbed through the skin and
> should not be disposed of that way.
What, by letting it air dry? As long as you are working in a well
ventilated outdoor space there's no problem whatsoever. I would not
use any significant quantity of MEK indoors without some serious
ventilation and PPE.
Rob Kleinschmidt
> Don't forget to DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY between steps. I have NEVER
> heard of anyone having the Por-15 peel off (Don't know how
> it could) so it's MUCH BETTER than kreem.To many horror stories about
> kreem.
IIRC, I used a hunk of sink drain fastened to the end
of my heat gun to dry the tank. This arrangement
kept the heat gun back from the flow of hot air which
vented out of the tank around the sides of the pipe.
I used 1/2" sheet metal screws in the tank during
the phosphoric acid shaking and cleaning step.
Rob Kleinschmidt
> Mark Olson wrote:
> > Are you talking about the stuff that comes in a two-part stick
> > similar to modeling clay, that you mix together?
>
> Yes, that is what I tried. My Suzuki had pinholes and a small crack that
> was about 1/4" long at the back end of the tank.
I don't think there's any permanent fix for cracks other than
welding or maybe brazing. Whatever caused the crack will
keep flexing it until it opens again.
Ted Mittelstaedt
"Ian Singer" <ians...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:6aikb1F...@mid.individual.net...
> Rick Cortese wrote:
>
> > Seriously: As long as you are at it, try soldering too. Get a nice
> > propane torch, flux, solder suitable for steel like that made for
> > radiators, and have at it.
>
> Only if you can be sure that there are ZERO fumes in the tank. Flushing
> it out with water, and leaving in the sun to dry for a week, is not good
> enough.
>
Isn't the usual trick putting dry ice into the tank?
Ted
Ian Singer
> Isn't the usual trick putting dry ice into the tank?
>
That would drastically reduce the temp in the area to be
soldered/brazed/welded and make it very hard to apply enough heat.
It would do nothing to reduce gasoline fumes so how does it eliminate
the risk of explosion? Are you suggesting that as it sublimated to
carbon dioxide it would totally fill the tank with it, and that it's
vapours are heavier than gasoline, so that the gas fumes would be
displaced out the top of the tank?
Ian Singer
ethanol and not methanol. Also I was told by one gas station that their
super grade contains none. So Red Coat would be OK if you can handle the
risks and disposal of the MEK.
Rob Kleinschmidt
> Ted Mittelstaedt wrote:
> > Isn't the usual trick putting dry ice into the tank?
>
> That would drastically reduce the temp in the area to be
> soldered/brazed/welded and make it very hard to apply enough heat.
> It would do nothing to reduce gasoline fumes so how does it eliminate
> the risk of explosion? Are you suggesting that as it sublimated to
> carbon dioxide it would totally fill the tank with it, and that it's
> vapours are heavier than gasoline, so that the gas fumes would be
> displaced out the top of the tank?
I've heard of dry ice and car exhaust. You might start
out with water and lye. Soldering with an electric iron
wouldn't involve a flame. Welding I took to somebody
who does lots of tanks.
Even the very experienced welder I bring other work
to said he didn't feel comfortable doing tanks because
of residual fumes. The guy who did the work made
me clean it multiple times because he didn't think it
was totally fume free.
Dr Ivan D. Reid
<Rkleinsc...@aol.com>
> Even the very experienced welder I bring other work
> to said he didn't feel comfortable doing tanks because
> of residual fumes. The guy who did the work made
> me clean it multiple times because he didn't think it
> was totally fume free.
You can go too far. When I was welding 200 l drums together to
make navigation beacons, there'd be a 500 ml or so pool of fuel left in
the drum after I'd hatcheted the top off. So I'd strike an arc in the
middle of the pool and let it burn off. Admittedly that was Special
Antarctic Blend diesel.
--
Ivan Reid, School of Engineering & Design, _____________ CMS Collaboration,
Brunel University. Ivan.Reid@[brunel.ac.uk|cern.ch] Room 40-1-B12, CERN
GSX600F, RG250WD "You Porsche. Me pass!" DoD #484 JKLO#003, 005
WP7# 3000 LC Unit #2368 (tinlc) UKMC#00009 BOTAFOT#16 UKRMMA#7 (Hon)
KotPT -- "for stupidity above and beyond the call of duty".
Rick Cortese
Just me but I use either a cheap Harbor Freight heat gun or a hair
dryer. I did melt the Harbor Freight heat gun which makes several
statements about their quality, my short attention span, and how hot and
dry it gets the tank. Heat gun still works but the melted and charred
plastic is not very reassuring.
Rick
Rob Kleinschmidt
> On Wed, 4 Jun 2008 10:30:29 -0700 (PDT), Rob Kleinschmidt
>
> > Even the very experienced welder I bring other work
> > to said he didn't feel comfortable doing tanks because
> > of residual fumes. The guy who did the work made
> > me clean it multiple times because he didn't think it
> > was totally fume free.
>
> You can go too far. When I was welding 200 l drums together to
> make navigation beacons, there'd be a 500 ml or so pool of fuel left in
> the drum after I'd hatcheted the top off. So I'd strike an arc in the
> middle of the pool and let it burn off. Admittedly that was Special
> Antarctic Blend diesel.
Big difference between gasoline and diesel.
I was worrying specifically about gasoline.
Gasoline fumes can definitely be explosive.
I don't think the same is true of diesel fumes.
Dr Ivan D. Reid
<Rkleinsc...@aol.com>
Especially at not many degrees above 0 C in the dieso shed.
But, to get an explosion you need something near a stoichiometric
ratio, normally given as 14.7:1 for air:octane. So, in a 20 l tank you
need about 1.27 l of octane vapour (air's average density being around
14.7 g/mole -- 14.4 to be exact). That's about .0567 mole of octane at
(CH3-6CH2-CH3 = C8H18 = 114g/mole) -> 6.5 g of octane, or about 5 ml.
If you've rinsed and dried the tank, there's no way there's 5 ml of
petrol left in the tank, so very little risk of explosion.
Rob Kleinschmidt
> On Wed, 4 Jun 2008 12:28:12 -0700 (PDT), Rob Kleinschmidt
> wrote in <c4074c93-cb46-420e-8fe7-49fe2ad75...@k30g2000hse.googlegroups.com>:
> > Gasoline fumes can definitely be explosive.
> > I don't think the same is true of diesel fumes.
>
> Especially at not many degrees above 0 C in the dieso shed.
>
> But, to get an explosion you need something near a stoichiometric
> ratio, normally given as 14.7:1 for air:octane. So, in a 20 l tank you
> need about 1.27 l of octane vapour (air's average density being around
> 14.7 g/mole -- 14.4 to be exact). That's about .0567 mole of octane at
> (CH3-6CH2-CH3 = C8H18 = 114g/mole) -> 6.5 g of octane, or about 5 ml.
> If you've rinsed and dried the tank, there's no way there's 5 ml of
> petrol left in the tank, so very little risk of explosion.
I've seen gasoline fume explosions in open air so
I don't think you need an exact stoichiometric mix
throughout the entire tank. Loads of anecdotal
stuff too, FWIW.
In the case I observed, a local bozo was attempting
to light a brush pile using gasoline. It first refused to
catch at all, then suddenly went off with a large
BOOM, as the vapor cloud above the pile ignited.
Diesel is what he should have used.
Best of luck in your experiments though. Video would
be much appreciated, however they turn out.
The Older Gentleman
Drain tank thoroughly. Hang the tank on a car exhaust, with the pipe
poking in through the filler hole. Or rig a hose or something. Run for
15-20 minutes.
Job done.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50 Yamaha XT600E
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
Rob Kleinschmidt
> Just me but I use either a cheap Harbor Freight heat gun or a hair
> dryer. I did melt the Harbor Freight heat gun which makes several
> statements about their quality, my short attention span, and how hot and
> dry it gets the tank. Heat gun still works but the melted and charred
> plastic is not very reassuring.
Stick a hunk of pipe on the heat gun
to extend the length of the pipe that
it's blowing through. This gets the
gun back out of the way of the returning
hot air coming back out of the tank.
A hunk of sink drain pipe worked well on
mine.
Jack Hunt
>For an explosion you need fuel and oxygen. The dry ice would presumably
>displace the oxygen in the tank with carbon dioxide, though that's a bit
>of a gamble.
A hose from the exhaust pipe of some running vehicle stuck into the fuel inlet
port will displace any oxygen, help dry the contents, and warm the whole thing
up. If you get an explosion that way, your other vehicle is running very, very
rich and you should immediately stop working on the gas tank and figure out why
your vehicle is getting gallons per mile instead of miles per gallon.
--
Jack
Eiron
> On Wed, 4 Jun 2008 12:28:12 -0700 (PDT), Rob Kleinschmidt
> <Rkleinsc...@aol.com>
> wrote in <c4074c93-cb46-420e...@k30g2000hse.googlegroups.com>:
>> On Jun 4, 10:47 am, "Dr Ivan D. Reid" <Ivan.R...@brunel.ac.uk> wrote:
>
>>> You can go too far. When I was welding 200 l drums together to
>>> make navigation beacons, there'd be a 500 ml or so pool of fuel left in
>>> the drum after I'd hatcheted the top off. So I'd strike an arc in the
>>> middle of the pool and let it burn off. Admittedly that was Special
>>> Antarctic Blend diesel.
>
>> Big difference between gasoline and diesel.
>> I was worrying specifically about gasoline.
>> Gasoline fumes can definitely be explosive.
>> I don't think the same is true of diesel fumes.
>
> Especially at not many degrees above 0 C in the dieso shed.
>
> But, to get an explosion you need something near a stoichiometric
> ratio, normally given as 14.7:1 for air:octane. So, in a 20 l tank you
> need about 1.27 l of octane vapour (air's average density being around
> 14.7 g/mole -- 14.4 to be exact). That's about .0567 mole of octane at
> (CH3-6CH2-CH3 = C8H18 = 114g/mole) -> 6.5 g of octane, or about 5 ml.
> If you've rinsed and dried the tank, there's no way there's 5 ml of
> petrol left in the tank, so very little risk of explosion.
The stoichiometric ratio for petrol is 14.7:1 by weight.
So you mean there's no way there's 2.3ml of petrol left....
--
Eiron.
Ted Mittelstaedt
> Ted Mittelstaedt wrote:
>
> > Isn't the usual trick putting dry ice into the tank?
> >
> That would drastically reduce the temp in the area to be
> soldered/brazed/welded and make it very hard to apply enough heat.
You don't fill the tank. You just put enough in there to fill
the tank with CO2 The idea is to displace the oxygen. With no
oxygen in the tank, the gas fumes cannot explode even if they are in there.
> It would do nothing to reduce gasoline fumes so how does it eliminate
> the risk of explosion? Are you suggesting that as it sublimated to
> carbon dioxide it would totally fill the tank with it, and that it's
> vapours are heavier than gasoline, so that the gas fumes would be
> displaced out the top of the tank?
All that's needed is for the oxygen to be displaced.
Ted
Jeff
news:newscache$lmw22k$p8a1$1...@news.ipinc.net:
Maybe a little simplistic, but if you turn the tank upside down and fill it
with helium wouldn't that displace BOTH the heavier oxygen and gas fumes
out of the tank?
Beryl
A tip I remember reading from waaay back is to fill a tank with sand.
That won't displace every gasoline fume and molecule of O2, but maybe
enough of them.
Aren't there explode-proof fuel tanks that are filled with empty
honeycomb cells, dividing up the vapor space while maintaining the
liquid capacity? I think so.
Sand might work much the same way, as a barrier to flame travel through
the tank. And the loose fill would absorb the force of any little pop.
But I'm not ever going to weld a used gas tank.
platypus
OFFS. It's petrol, not plutonium. Empty the thing and let it dry. That
petrol smell is just a smell, not roiling clouds of high explosive. If
you're really worried, poke the torch in through the filler neck before you
start.
S'mee
> >>news:newscache$lmw22k$p8a1$1...@news.ipinc.net:
>
> >>> "Ian Singer" <iansin...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
Oh sure tell him the easy and smart way to do it...
--
Keith
SpamTrapSeeSig
<e56c9c33-a559-4c48...@f24g2000prh.googlegroups.com>,
S'mee <steven...@hotmail.com> writes
>Oh sure tell him the easy and smart way to do it...
Spoilsport. I was waiting for:
"but it's quite possible to arc weld underwater. They do it all the time
in the North Sea..."
Regards,
Simonm.
--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU http://www.eurofaq.freeuk.com/
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TDi'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/
Beryl
I've also heard of tanks blowing up after they'd sat dry for a year.
"Empty the thing and let it dry" is hilarious. :)
Rob Kleinschmidt
> I've also heard of tanks blowing up after they'd sat dry for a year.
> "Empty the thing and let it dry" is hilarious. :)
Some amount of fuel trapped in the tank sludge
perhaps ? In any case, I talked to two experienced
welders, one who did the job and one who didn't
feel comfortable with it. Both were profoundly
cautious about tank fumes.
One recommendation I'd heard was to pipe a
car exhaust into the tank to displace the air.
Beryl
I don't know where the fuel hides. I wouldn't even weld a muffler any
more without thinking it through. I was holding up the end of a tailpipe
once while a coworker welded near the muffler a few feet away. Soon
enough there was a flash and a BANG!, my face was charred around one eye
and a pair of eyelashes and eyebrow were burned off. But of course,
OFFS, it was just an exhaust pipe, that wouldn't happen.
Ian Singer
> "but it's quite possible to arc weld underwater. They do it all the time
> in the North Sea..."
If I send you my tank will you do that in your swimming pool? Watch for
the chlorine boiling off though as its poisonous.
Beryl
> In uk.rec.motorcycles.classic Beryl <flyingt...@chillybits.org> wrote:
>
>> I don't know where the fuel hides. I wouldn't even weld a muffler any
>> more without thinking it through. I was holding up the end of a tailpipe
>> once while a coworker welded near the muffler a few feet away. Soon
>> enough there was a flash and a BANG!, my face was charred around one eye
>> and a pair of eyelashes and eyebrow were burned off. But of course,
>> OFFS, it was just an exhaust pipe, that wouldn't happen.
>
> I can't otherwise see how the explosion could have had such an interesting
> effect.
I was not /that/ clever. But I was watching "upstream" toward the guy
welding. And later on, I accidentally ran over his foot with a hard
tired forklift, so everything worked out.
> Could it have been caused by the ignition of carbon dust? Robert Ballard
> in his account of the loss of the Lusitania in 1915 theorized that the ship
> suffered two explosions; one from the initial torpedo strike and a second
> moments later from igniting coal dust in the ship's engine room.
Grain silos explode too. I stuffed an empty CO2 cartridge with
matchheads once, then fired it from a piece of water pipe like a
bazooka. The burn didn't go whoooosh like I expected.
Rob Kleinschmidt
> I stuffed an empty CO2 cartridge with
> matchheads once, then fired it from a piece of water pipe like a
> bazooka. The burn didn't go whoooosh like I expected.
As kids, we used to do this. Never figured out
where they were landing, but it was always
quite satisfying watching them take off.
S'mee
> Thus spake Jack Hunt (jhun...@tds.net) unto the assembled multitudes:
>
> > A hose from the exhaust pipe of some running vehicle stuck into the fuel
> > inlet port will displace any oxygen, help dry the contents, and warm the
> > whole thing up. If you get an explosion that way, your other vehicle is
> > running very, very rich and you should immediately stop working on the gas
>
> I'd like to meet the guy who continues working on his gas tank *after* an
> explosion...
Hello my name is Keith and in my misspent youth I once had a tank
explosion with a plastic fuel tank that had fuel residue in it. Fuel
was an ethanol/nitromethane (35% iirc) and castor blend. singed the
hair off my leg and that was about it. When doing things like that
I've since learned the benefits of wearing jeans or long pants when
doing these things. 8^) Survival is a given, surviving without
embarassing hair loss or "interesting burns" a given. Or to qoute
Marion Morrison "Stupid hurts"
--
Keith
sweller
> I used some Unibond epoxy-based plastic repair goo to fix a leak in the
> fuel tank on my lawnmower, and it appears to be working just
> fine. But I wouldn't recommend it for a bike tank...
I've used Chemical Metal (a two part epoxy) to fix big holes (the size of
a 5p) in the Guzzi tank.
I've also used it on pin holes. About 15 years ago I sloshed some 3M
petrol proof glue around inside the tank. Can't remember the name of the
glue and I can't seem to find it out now.
Anyway, all the above worked/still works.
--
Simon