Recently I noticed one rebuilder reccomending moly based.
Anybody have any opinions on this ?
My own totally unscientific take on this, is I am starting to
favor a high quality grease with some Moly added. I used to believe
in the Honda Moly 60% Paste but if it's too dry it doesn't seem
to work as well as a grease which tends to flow a little better.
http://www.hondapartsworld.com/moly60paste.aspx
http://www.lubriplate.com/pdf/pds/3_21%203000%20Series.pdf
Been a long time since I rode and maintained a Beemer, but I'd
be inclined to use a moly grease. Its load-bearing capcity is greater
than lithium grease. That's why it's specified for use in ball
joints, universal joints, etc.
grease is grease.
--
Claude Hopper :)
? ? ¥
Moly is sold as car wheel bearing grease in the UK
HTH.
I use Honda Moly 60 for splines, and this generally seems
to be accepted as a good spline lubricant.
What I'm actually worrying about is a grease gun type
lube for an aftermarket driveshaft with zerk fittings.
This is the place I've been using Mobil1 synthetic grease
and where Bruno, legendary driveshaft rebuilder,
seems to be recommending a moly based grease.
>>
>> Anybody have any opinions on this ?
>
>
> grease is grease.
>
Not really an opinion on the subject, but a true statement of little value.
The best grease to use is one that meets better than the minimum specs
of the bearing and is the most readily available.
Clay
Believe it or not, I found an article on EP grease on Wikipedia the
other day. Lithium grease is based on a lithium soap and petroleum,
where 'regular' grease is a calcium based soap and petroleum. There are
other types of grease too, but those seem to be the usual ones used
here.
'Moly', or molybdenum di-sulfide is a 'dry lubricant' additive, not
really a kind of grease. When metal to metal contact happens due to
high loads, the moly lubricates and takes the wear - at least up to a
point. Graphite is sometimes also used,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grease_(lubricant)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide
Also IIRC, moly was widely used during WWII in Allied aircraft engines.
If the oil supply was lost it gave more time for the engine to run
before it totally siezed.
Glad to hear you used a moly grease, it's the right stuff.
Mark
> 'Moly', or molybdenum di-sulfide is a 'dry lubricant' additive, not
> really a kind of grease. When metal to metal contact happens due to
> high loads, the moly lubricates and takes the wear - at least up to a
> point. Graphite is sometimes also used,
I would go for the moly grease, but graphite poses a special problem.
It can actually *cause* wear, if the oil that it is suspended in
departs the area
you're trying to lubricate.
Actually graphite grease has the best friction resistance.
Sorry, meant to also say that moly is preferred, but it got lost in the
edits.
If a grease says EP on it, but not moly, I *suspect* that it's got
graphite in it. For the relatively minor cost difference, why not use
the best, especially if that's what's called for.
Mark
> If a grease says EP on it, but not moly, I *suspect* that it's got
> graphite in it. �For the relatively minor cost difference, why not use
> the best, especially if that's what's called for.
Back in the late 1970's, there was a *black* motor oil called "Arco
Graphite".
Owners found out the hard way what happens to engine parts when coated
with graphite without an oil to keep it moving around.
My problem with Arco Graphite came when the crankcase breather
system got plugged up and the graphite bearing oil vapors came out the
dipstick tube.
It was aimed at the backside of the alternator wire harness plug where
I couldn't see it, and it shorted out the field circuit so the battery
was always dead...
I replaced two voltage regulators and the alternator before I figured
out that
the Arco Graphite was causing the problem...
I had a car with cool stainless braided hoses. One of the hose came
loose from the holder and slid up against the alternator fan causing a
leak. I realized when the car burnt to the ground that gasoline was
causing the problem. Nasty stuff!
Apparently the plugged breather was the culprit?
Clay
oh really...gee you hear all sorts of BS from old krusty every day. I
must have been imagining it when I used to use spray on graphite
lubricants for load bearing sliding parts. Yep straight graphite isn't
a lubricant...you lying sack of slime.
--
Keith
Its common to see "Lubricate with graphite" stamped on brass padlocks.
> Its common to see "Lubricate with graphite" stamped on brass padlocks.
Problem is, what is the purity of the graphite?
I could show you where a vein of graphite is sandwiched between layers
of
sedimentary rocks in Little Tujunga canyon...
Graphite is naturally found in combination with much harder minerals,
such as quartz and silica, and it's very hard to separate the grit
from the graphite.
The very soft graphite actually "marks" the grit. But there are
processes for
refining graphite.
Lubricating a lock with low-grit graphite isn't going to hurt it, but
running an
engine with low-grit graphite after the carrier oil is gone will grind
metal away.
Fact is LOCKS have that written on them for a completely different
reason. If oil in an open environment didn't hold dirt, AND didn't get
"thick" in cold weather it would say 7IO here. :)
Ask a locksmith.
Graphite can be used as a lubricant, but is NOT a GOOD lubricant. Hell
water can be, and is used a lubricant in some applications, but I
wouldn't use it in an engine. or my wheel bearings.
Clay
Found a tube of RedLine CV 2 synthetic moly grease
that I plan on using.
Dood stuff. Doesn't fit into a grease gun.
If it's grease it can be packed into a grease gun. How to you think it
got into grease guns before the grease cartrdiges became available?
Grease fairies?
p.s. loaded more grease guns manually than most people have with
cartridges.
--
Keith
I wouldn't be real optimistic about good results
trying to squeeze moly paste through a zerk fitting.
Great stuff for splines. Doesn't seem real appropriate
for needle bearings.
> > Its common to see "Lubricate with graphite" stamped on brass padlocks.
>
> Problem is, what is the purity of the graphite?
Oh, so now it's not just 'graphite' that causes problems, bit 'a
particular type of graphite'.
Right.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XTZ660 Tenere Honda CB400F CB250N SH50
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
I was under the impression that lithium based grease were developed for high
temp applications. Things like wheel bearings with red hot disc brakes next
door. So it should work fine in most applications. Only problem I have ever
heard is it is more moisture sensitive then other greases so it should not
be used in exposed applications like chassis fittings. Anything internal,
behind oil seals, or rubber boots should be fine.
I am a fan of moly based lubes. A true believer as it were. Anything with
moly is better then anything w/o. Thing is if standard lube is good for say
200k miles then does it really make sense to use something that would get
300k miles wear? Specific to the problem the grease will get contaminated as
seals will wear out a long time before the grease wears out.
Rick
I said GREASE not pate. Come on keep up, you're the smart one and I'm
the underpaid comedy relief.
--
Keith
> I said GREASE not pate. Come on keep up, you're the smart one and I'm
> the < totally amateur > comedy relief.
There. I fixed it for you.
Proving once again o' senile pervert that you can't fix a damn
thing...and if that's funny my real name is Richard Millhouse Nixon.
--
Keith
Come on...he is the most mechanicly incompetetant personality here. I
mean good grief he doesn't even change much less BELIEVE you need to
change brake fluid.
--
Keith
> > Problem is, what is the purity of the graphite?
>
> Oh, so now it's not just 'graphite' that causes problems, bit 'a
> particular type of graphite'.
Well *look it up*, ya putz.
Graphite can be found in in combination with various other unwanted
minerals such as quartz and silica and graphite *ore* may have to be
refined six times to reach the purity that is needed for it to be used
in a colloidal solution.
SO now you are backpeddling and trying to justify your stupidity and
lack of intelligence by claiming the choice of which type of graphite
matters more than graphite in general?
Damn you are a pathetic loser.
--
Keith
If you re-read the post I was responding to, he
was suggesting Honda moly paste, which is a
fine product for splines but totally inappropriate
for a zerk/grease guns/u-joint problem.
>
> SO now you are backpeddling and trying to justify your stupidity and
> lack of intelligence by claiming the choice of which type of graphite
> matters more than graphite in general?
Indeed he is.
> SO now you are backpeddling
This is a technical newsgroup intended to exchange technical
information,
it's not a bicycle.
> and trying to justify your stupidity and
> lack of intelligence by claiming the choice of which type of graphite
> matters more than graphite in general?
The naive user of lubricants containing graphite in a colloidal
suspension or
in a soapy binder may have no concept that graphite has varying levels
of
purity and that it can contain silica that will actually cause wear.
Arco stopped making its own Arco Graphite product decades ago when it
caused engine wear.
The US Air Force also prohibits using graphite lubricants on its
planes and missiles because it causes corrosion when in contact with
aluminum parts.
>
> Damn you are a pathetic loser.
And you, sirrah, are a pustulent pimple on a baboon's striped ass.
You keep saying that, so why do you post so much irrelevant invective
and obscenity on it?
It's always in response to you and your catamite S'mee trashing the
group.
If you stop trashing every message, I won't have to stoop to your
level
of discourse.
> If you stop trashing every message, I won't have to stoop to your
> level of discourse.
Sad, sad. You really are a horrible human being, aren't you? Lost your
job, nobody to share your life with, nothing to do except blame others
for the failure of your life, nothing to say except an endless stream
of petty invective and obscenity....... Hohum.
Wrong. You were the lone turd in this punch bowl, and now you've
spawned
S'mee to pollute it.
*Sigh*
I rest my case.
(Got anything else to add about camshaft bearings, while you're here?)
> *Sigh*
>
> I rest my case.
Just drop it. You failed the bar exam, much to the disappointment of
your father. You're not a barrister, so give up the courtroom drama.
> On Dec 1, 9:06?am, "Giant Turd in the Punchbowl"
Ah! And he morphs again....