My 1979 XL185 speedo was doing something between a squeal and a buzz.
Light oil on the needle's bearing cured it, but the metal speedo housing
was crimped together, and the formerly smooth seam is now wrinkled and
ugly. It all fits inside an even uglier squeaky plastic box, so that
didn't matter in my case. Since the tripmeter reset knob was also
snapped off, I replaced the whole horrid instrument with something nicer.
>I've got a 1984 Wing with a speedometer that starts squealing very load when
>I go faster than 40 mph when the air temp drops below 50 degrees .
I had a 1983 Magna with the same problem. I fixed it by removing the odometer
reset button and squirting it full of WD-40. Use the flexible tube that comes
with the spray can.
--
Jack
I just opened a speedo to fix the tripmeter reset.
Took two tries to get it back together right and I
botched the seam a little too. Got it straightened
out and got out the worst of the scars.
The second time, I glued the nut holding the trip
meter cover to the face of the instrument so I
could line up the reset pushrod with the hole in
the face. I then screwed the rubber cover and
tube it sits on back into the nut after it was
reassembled.
To reseal the crimp, I layed the instrument face
down on a plank and pushed down the crimp with
a heavy metal bolt. A little masking tape on the
surface of the crimp ring might have helped too.
That's the sort of neat semi-bodge solution that always appeals to me
;-)
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street Triple
Suzuki TS250ER GN250 Damn, back to six bikes!
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
That could never work for more than a block or two, it's far to simple
and doesn't require special tools.
Last time I saw someone try this it worked great until the next morning,
when he found that the inside of the glass (plastic) had fogged with the
solvent and the speedo was unreadable.
--
Dave
ex Motorcycle Maintenance Workshop
http://tinyurl.com/4mhaw
gee and I was just pointing out the erronious mentality that assumes
you ALWAYS have to have special tools... 8^(
>Last time I saw someone try this it worked great until the next morning,
>when he found that the inside of the glass (plastic) had fogged with the
>solvent and the speedo was unreadable.
I had a puddle of solvent rolling around in the bottom of the glass for a while,
it eventually leaked out or evaporated but it never fogged. Maybe he used a
different kind of solvent that wasn't friendly to plastic? Looking back, I may
have used an industrial lubricant called 12-34, which is very similar to WD-40
but may have a very different chemical composition. It was somewhere between
1995 and 2000 when I did that. I may have forgotten a few details but it did
work with no complications.
Those plastic lenses were known for sun-fogging anyway, solvent or no. They can
be brought back to usefulness with the application of a little plastic polishing
compound and a lot of patience. I even know a person who replaced his lenses
with either glass or new plastic and he posted a how-to guide. I can find it
for you if you're really interested.
My "fix" lasted for two more years until I got a bigger bike and sold that one.
As far as I know, it's still working.
--
Jack
WD-40 is a very poor long term lubricant - it's mostly some anti-rust
nasty held in an alcohol solution. Most of the lubricating effect
is in the alcohol base which quicky evaporates.
Still, you've identified the problem so now try spraying in some real
light oil.
Beware of spraying onto the speedo face.
Greg.P.
NZ
I would guess a speedo mechanism should ideally be dis-assembled and
then have some kind of lubricant applied, maybe silicone-based or maybe
white grease, not sure. Just drifting the thread a bit- in winter, when
I sometimes go weeks without riding anything bigger, I keep my little
old 70cc Honda Passport on the deck, with an awning above but wind, rain
and snow still blow on it. Sometimes when the wind or snow persists
more than a day or two I put a bike cover over it with a trouble light
underneath to try to catch a little condensation. Temps here rarely go
below -5C (about 20F I guess) and I don't worry much about bad road
conditions with such a small light two-wheeler, except of course for
black ice, for me the only civic danger besides cagers that comes close
is wet autumn leaves on cobble/brick streets. One thing that seems to
help keep the chrome rims, spokes, header, muffler and other shiny bits
from rusting is a light coat of WD40. I don't worry about getting it on
the tires since there's not much danger with a scoot that has a top
speed of only about 45 mph. Maybe there is a better coating for this
purpose but but the WD40 suits my budget. I guess I could put lots of
wax on by hand but it's not a show bike and the WD40 is quick and easy
to get into crevices.
A few times I've found it helped remove very light rust stains from
painted bodywork. Some people I know shoot it in locks but I think
graphite is better for that, except maybe when one is trying to free a
frozen lock. Others use it to clean electrical contacts but I think
contact cleaner is better for cleaning if rust isn't involved, it's
fixed 'broken' blinkers/flashers a couple of times without any
dis-assembly.
When I want to remove rust I dis-assemble and dip the parts in a
commercial non-toxic product that is safe to wash down the drain.
Just a few winter thoughts, maybe there are better ideas.
Now be carefull of that WD40, it has a varnish componenet that often
will cause the item to seize up again later, and worse.
Sit the bottom end of the speedo in sewing machine type oil to lube
the felt washer in there. If you want to open up the speedo, cut the
crimp ring with a demel disc tool at its bottom, and pull the ring
apart, it will clip back in position and can be glued in place. So I
am told.
And would your 84 Wing be a naked model by any chance?
JohnR - 76 GL 1000 Yellow Bird - in Cold Old England.
> If you want to open up the speedo, cut the
> crimp ring with a demel disc tool at its bottom, and pull the ring
> apart, it will clip back in position and can be glued in place. So I
> am told.
On my beemer, I was able to pry up the crimp, then
slide the can opener blade of my swiss army knife
around the ring, pop the ring off, operate on the speedo,
reseat the ring and fold the crimp back over again.
Dunno why they make 'em like that. It's almost as if
they were deliberately trying to make it difficult for
owners to operate on. :-)
> Dunno why they make 'em like that. It's almost as if
> they were deliberately trying to make it difficult for
> owners to operate on. :-)
Who has ever seen a speedometer that was designed to be repairable by
the owner?
Are there even any companies that repair automotive instruments at
all?
Whoosh.
> Are there even any companies that repair automotive instruments at
> all?
Yes.