Also. Does any one know where I can get rebuild/performance parts for RD200,
RD350, and RD400 bikes.
Duh, aren't RD's 2-stroke/reed valve?
You need a dial indicator (metric) and some way to tell when the points are
open/closed. Some use a device called a buzz-box, I have just laid the plugs
across the cylinders and listen for the spark to pop.
Clean the points first with 240 sandpaper and contact cleaner. Set the gap to
.012" for best top end performance. Lube the point cam with distributor lube
grease. Install the dial indicator into the spark plug hole, turn the bolt on
the end of the left side crank until the left cylinder is at TDC (dial
indicator in left side). Set the dial inicator to 0.0, with the key on, rotate
to crank clockwise until the dial indicator reads 3.0mm before TDC. Slowly
rotate the crank until it is near 2.0mm for the 350, or 2.4mm for the 400. The
spark should occur in this area. If not, adjust the timing until is does.
Repeat for the right side. It is important that the difference in timing
between the two cylinders be within 0.2mm for smooth operation.
If you have trouble understanding these instructions, I would seriously
consider having an experienced shop do the work, because if you botch it up, it
is a real quick way to seize or hole your pistons.
Somebody say hi to Doug at MOTO CARERRA, I used to write articles for his news
letter and haven't spoken to him in a while.
Dale Alexander
Just wandering through and thought I would answer a plea for help...
How has your project turned out? Please answer back to DAlex...@aol.com to
keep it off the list.
Dale Alexander
Dale Alexander
IMHO, for stock use, the answer is no. Use a timing light.
The last 2-stroke street bike I owned (a Suzuki GT550) made a huge deal out
of using a dial indicator and degree wheel to set timing. I found this
technique to be a complete and total PITA. Eventually I started timing it
with a timing light, just like I used on my Honda 4-strokes. It was easy
and I'm convinced I was able to set timing more accurately this way.
I have heard other people say that the timing marks on the crank aren't
accurate enough. If you feel that way, I'd check them one-time with a dial
indicator and then scribe accurate marks for use of a timing light.
If the bike has points, timing is going to wander a little over time. So
even if better accuracy were possible through using a dial indicator and
degree wheel, this utmost accurancy wouldn't last that long anyway.
- Mark
As to the timing, it seems like there is a spec that uses the distance before top dead center, as measured through the spark plug hole. A timing light makes the most sense but if you don't have one think about the following formula:
Advance distance = A
Degrees before TDC = D
Stroke = S
A = 1/2 S (1 - cos D)
I think the spark plug is in the center of the head and pointing straight down on the piston, which would also be a requirement for this to work. I've had several RD350s but I sold my last one about 20 years ago, so I could be wrong. Good luck with your project.
Dale (no not that one)
H8isabeaut wrote:
I was told I would need a degree wheel and a dial indicator to set the timing
on one of these beasts. Is that true?
Also. Does any one know where I can get rebuild/performance parts for RD200,
RD350, and RD400 bikes.
I guess you need one or the other but I don't think both. I used to time my
old R5B (predecessor to the RD350) which had the same engine except for the
reed valves and 6th speed in the tranny, by using a dial indicator screwed into
the spark plug hole and a "buzz box" continuity tester. I still remember the
specification - 2 mm before top dead center. If you are using a degree wheel
the spec will of course be in degrees rather than piston travel.
The R5s had contact point ignition but I can't remember if Yamaha upgraded to
electronic ignition with the introduction of the RD series or if that came
later.
Jeff Bertrand
Ventura, CA
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