M8 thread pitch on honda motorcycles.
ian field
Thanks in advance.
.
wrote:
> Anyone know the thread pitch on Honda M8 bolts?
If you have a metric bolt, just lay a metric scale next to it.
1.0mm is a very common pitch.
Typical pitches are 0.5mm, 0.75mm, 1.0mm, 1.25mm and 1.5mm, from one
thread crest to the next.
ian field
"." <anobl...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:e409621a-dab4-42d3...@r15g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 24, 1:54?pm, "ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com>
wrote:
> Anyone know the thread pitch on Honda M8 bolts?
If you have a metric bolt, just lay a metric scale next to it.
1.0mm is a very common pitch.
-----------------------------
So is 1.25mm - that's what I'm trying to distinguish.
.
wrote:
> "." <anoblew...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> 1.0mm is a very common pitch.
> So is 1.25mm - that's what I'm trying to distinguish.
So the thread spacing of a 1.0mm bolt is 0.0394 inches and the thread
spacing on a 1.25mm bolt is 0.0493 inches.
That's a *very noticeable* difference in thread pitch.
You do have a caliper or a steel scale, don't you?
Jack Hunt
>That's a *very noticeable* difference in thread pitch.
Sure is. About the width of four human hairs.
--
Jack
Dr Ivan D. Reid
wrote in <UqMel.6537$S41...@newsfe04.ams2>:
>> news:e409621a-dab4-42d3...@r15g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
>> On Jan 24, 1:54?pm, "ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>> Anyone know the thread pitch on Honda M8 bolts?
>> If you have a metric bolt, just lay a metric scale next to it.
>> 1.0mm is a very common pitch.
> So is 1.25mm - that's what I'm trying to distinguish.
Well, metric coarse M8 is 1.25, metric fine M8 is 1.0. I'd expect
Honda to use fine on engine parts, but that's just an edjumificated guess...
This is where calipers, thread gauges, or plain rulers cumin handy -- assuming
you've got a sample to test, of course. :-/
--
Ivan Reid, School of Engineering & Design, _____________ CMS Collaboration,
Brunel University. Ivan.Reid@[brunel.ac.uk|cern.ch] Room 40-1-B12, CERN
GSX600F, RG250WD "You Porsche. Me pass!" DoD #484 JKLO#003, 005
WP7# 3000 LC Unit #2368 (tinlc) UKMC#00009 BOTAFOT#16 UKRMMA#7 (Hon)
KotPT -- "for stupidity above and beyond the call of duty".
ian field
"Jack Hunt" <jhu...@tds.net> wrote in message
news:sd6nn4de2684a9d26...@4ax.com...
He's not answering the question because he doesn't know.
ian field
"Dr Ivan D. Reid" <Ivan...@brunel.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:slrngnn6dc.3...@loki.brunel.ac.uk...
> On Sat, 24 Jan 2009 22:16:01 -0000, ian field
> <gangprob...@ntlworld.com>
> wrote in <UqMel.6537$S41...@newsfe04.ams2>:
>>> "." <anobl...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:e409621a-dab4-42d3...@r15g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
>>> On Jan 24, 1:54?pm, "ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>>> Anyone know the thread pitch on Honda M8 bolts?
>
>>> If you have a metric bolt, just lay a metric scale next to it.
>
>>> 1.0mm is a very common pitch.
>
>> So is 1.25mm - that's what I'm trying to distinguish.
>
> Well, metric coarse M8 is 1.25, metric fine M8 is 1.0. I'd expect
> Honda to use fine on engine parts, but that's just an edjumificated
> guess...
> This is where calipers, thread gauges, or plain rulers cumin handy --
> assuming
> you've got a sample to test, of course. :-/
>
That would be my guess too, but I need to be sure before ordering a V-coil
thread repair kit and refill inset pack from a seller who has a £50 minimum
order .
.
wrote:
> That would be my guess too, but I need to be sure before ordering a V-coil
> thread repair kit and refill inset pack from a seller who has a �50 minimum
> order .
Honda *does not* give the thread pitch on their parts fiches, they
just call out the bolt diameter in millimeters, followed by the
length, again in millimeters.
So, you'll need to actually *measure* the thread pitch with an
appropriate gauge or caliper before ordering any parts.
Rob Kleinschmidt
wrote:
> Anyone know the thread pitch on Honda M8 bolts?
Printable metric bolt gauge:
http://www.boltdepot.com/Fastener-Information/Printable-Tools/Metric-Hex-Bolt-Sizes.pdf
The Older Gentleman
> On Jan 24, 3:04?pm, "ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com>
> wrote:
>
> > That would be my guess too, but I need to be sure before ordering a V-coil
> > thread repair kit and refill inset pack from a seller who has a ?50 minimum
> > order .
>
> Honda *does not* give the thread pitch on their parts fiches, they
> just call out the bolt diameter in millimeters, followed by the
> length, again in millimeters.
>
> So, you'll need to actually *measure* the thread pitch with an
> appropriate gauge or caliper before ordering any parts.
Why are you trying to start an argument? Look back to the posting before
Ian's, and you'll see that this was *precisely* the advice that Ian was
referring to.
Advice given by Ivan, who you already seem to have a downer on since he
gently rubbed your face in it with your guff about magnets.
Ian actually quoted it, but you snipped it, and started trying to come
over all self-important with "advice".
Enquiring minds need to ask: why did you snip advice that had been
given, and then re-post it?
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XTZ660 Tenere Honda CB400F SH50
If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it. Workshop manual?
Buy one instead of asking where the free PDFs are
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
Bob Scott
>On Sat, 24 Jan 2009 22:16:01 -0000, ian field <gangprob...@ntlworld.com>
> wrote in <UqMel.6537$S41...@newsfe04.ams2>:
>>> "." <anobl...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:e409621a-dab4-42d3...@r15g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
>>> On Jan 24, 1:54?pm, "ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>>> Anyone know the thread pitch on Honda M8 bolts?
>
>>> If you have a metric bolt, just lay a metric scale next to it.
>
>>> 1.0mm is a very common pitch.
>
>> So is 1.25mm - that's what I'm trying to distinguish.
>
> Well, metric coarse M8 is 1.25, metric fine M8 is 1.0. I'd expect
>Honda to use fine on engine parts, but that's just an edjumificated guess...
>This is where calipers, thread gauges, or plain rulers cumin handy -- assuming
>you've got a sample to test, of course. :-/
>
mounts[1] so I'd assume the M8s are Fine as well.
I know making assumptions is risky but my tub of stainless fasteners are
M8 fine and they fit the bolts from the CB900. Of course, that may just
mean a DPO had used M8 fine bolts instead of M8 coarse but I'd think
not.
Bob
[1] So I've transplanted a couple of them to the Laverda - same size,
same thread, less rusty.
--
Bob Scott
.
Argument Starter) wrote:
> Why are you trying to start an argument?
Why are *you* trying to start an argument?
Is arguing what you live for?
.
> I know making assumptions is risky but my tub of stainless fasteners are
> M8 fine and they fit the bolts from the CB900. Of course, that may just
> mean a DPO had used M8 fine bolts instead of M8 coarse but I'd think
> not.
Using a different thread pitch on *through bolts* isn't an important
issue, but when
an amateur mechanic tries to screw a 1.25 pitch bolt into a 1.00 pitch
blind hole in an aluminum casting, the first threads will get stripped
out.
The Older Gentleman
I'm not trying to start an argument. I asked a question.
And that was: perfectly good advice was given, quoted, and then you
snipped it out and repeated it ab initio, as if it was the first time it
had been suggested.
Why???
(You need to lessen your paranoia, you sad unfulfilled person)
The Older Gentleman
Er, yes, which is presumably one reason why the question was asked
originally. Your point?
Dr Ivan D. Reid
wrote in <b6333505-d87c-4092...@y23g2000pre.googlegroups.com>:
> Using a different thread pitch on *through bolts* isn't an important
> issue
Beg to differ. Motorcycle workshop manuals are full of tables of
tightening torques for all sorts of screw fasteners. Using the right
torque on the wrong pitch can lead either to under-tightened fasteners
or stripped threads.
paul c
...
> The CB900 I'm in the process of TOGing out uses M10 Fine on the engine
> mounts[1] so I'd assume the M8s are Fine as well.
>
> I know making assumptions is risky but my tub of stainless fasteners are
> M8 fine and they fit the bolts from the CB900. Of course, that may just
> mean a DPO had used M8 fine bolts instead of M8 coarse but I'd think
> not.
>
> Bob
Interesting that the M8's would be Fine pitch. Honda Common Service Manual circa 1993 gives 'typical' ISO threads found on Honda vehicles with the M8 at 1.25 mm pitch. I'm curious which parts have 1.0 mm pitch threads.
.
> Interesting that the M8's would be Fine pitch. �Honda Common Service Manual circa 1993 gives 'typical' ISO threads found on Honda vehicles with the M8 at 1.25 mm pitch. �I'm curious which parts have 1.0 mm pitch threads.
The banjo bolts in the brake system *might* have 10mm diameter 1.0mm
pitch threads or 1.25mm pitch threads, and trying to substitute the
wrong thread can be expen$ive.
.
in the Ass) wrote:
> Your point?
That you're a Genuine Pain in the Ass.
ian field
"paul c" <toledob...@oohay.ac> wrote in message
news:Xk0fl.6860$PH1.176@edtnps82...
Only M6 & M7 apparently, I bit the bullet and braved the cold and rain to
get an M8 crankcase bolt from the shed, it fits the M8x1.25 die from my tap
& die set, maybe they start using fine threads from M10 upwards.
ian field
"Rob Kleinschmidt" <Rkleinsc...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:29b84095-4925-493f...@r15g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
Printable metric bolt gauge:
http://www.boltdepot.com/Fastener-Information/Printable-Tools/Metric-Hex-Bolt-Sizes.pdf
Thanks.
.
> Beg to differ. Motorcycle workshop manuals are full of tables of
> tightening torques for all sorts of screw fasteners. Using the right
> torque on the wrong pitch can lead either to under-tightened fasteners
> or stripped threads.
I have *never* seen any reference to thread pitch in torque tables.
The tables only address the diameter and grade of the bolts.
Dr Ivan D. Reid
wrote in <bca3ee73-8f0d-473f...@r15g2000prd.googlegroups.com>:
> On Jan 25, 8:12 am, "Dr Ivan D. Reid" <Ivan.R...@brunel.ac.uk> wrote:
>> Beg to differ. Motorcycle workshop manuals are full of tables of
>> tightening torques for all sorts of screw fasteners. Using the right
>> torque on the wrong pitch can lead either to under-tightened fasteners
>> or stripped threads.
> I have *never* seen any reference to thread pitch in torque tables.
Exactly -- they assume the correct fastener is used.
> The tables only address the diameter and grade of the bolts.
And the usage. Looking at the table in a German manual for the
1992 CB-sevenfifty I find these torques for 8 mm bolts just in the section
on brakes alone: 27 Nm, 31 Nm, 23 Nm, 5.5 Nm, 13 Nm, 18 Nm, and 42 Nm.
Rob Kleinschmidt
wrote:
> "Rob Kleinschmidt" <Rkleinsch1216...@aol.com> wrote in message
>
> news:29b84095-4925-493f...@r15g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
> On Jan 24, 1:54 pm, "ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Anyone know the thread pitch on Honda M8 bolts?
>
> Printable metric bolt gauge:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/dkznex
>
I can also find a pretty good assortment of metric
nuts and bolts at my local Ace Hardware. A buck
or so buys an assortment of nuts to check with.
Jack Hunt
>I have *never* seen any reference to thread pitch in torque tables.
>
>The tables only address the diameter and grade of the bolts.
You will never see a torque table tailored for the idiot who uses mis-matched
fasteners.
Is there a copy of Andy Pugh's Threaded Fastener FAQ online anywhere? I had it
on a website years ago but it's long gone now.
--
Jack
.
> On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 09:26:32 -0800 (PST), "." <anoblew...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >I have *never* seen any reference to thread pitch in torque tables.
> >The tables only address the diameter and grade of the bolts.
>
> You will never see a torque table tailored for the idiot who uses mis-matched
> fasteners.
Hey! Play nice, now!
The Older Gentleman
>
> Is there a copy of Andy Pugh's Threaded Fastener FAQ online anywhere?
Blimey. Has anyone heard anything of AtP?
frijoli
> On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 09:26:32 -0800 (PST), . <anobl...@gmail.com>
> wrote in <bca3ee73-8f0d-473f...@r15g2000prd.googlegroups.com>:
>> On Jan 25, 8:12 am, "Dr Ivan D. Reid" <Ivan.R...@brunel.ac.uk> wrote:
>
>>> Beg to differ. Motorcycle workshop manuals are full of tables of
>>> tightening torques for all sorts of screw fasteners. Using the right
>>> torque on the wrong pitch can lead either to under-tightened fasteners
>>> or stripped threads.
>
>> I have *never* seen any reference to thread pitch in torque tables.
>
> Exactly -- they assume the correct fastener is used.
>
>> The tables only address the diameter and grade of the bolts.
>
> And the usage. Looking at the table in a German manual for the
> 1992 CB-sevenfifty I find these torques for 8 mm bolts just in the section
> on brakes alone: 27 Nm, 31 Nm, 23 Nm, 5.5 Nm, 13 Nm, 18 Nm, and 42 Nm.
>
Torque tables are related to MAINLY, minor diameter of the bolt, bolt
stretch, and material of the bolt or material threaded into. There can
be many torque specs for an M8- 1.25 pitch depending on the material
it's made from and the material it's threaded into.
There is very little difference in torque specs based on thread pitches,
because the root or minor diameter doesn't change much. Which is one
reason why you don't see references to pitch in a generic torque table.
Also generic torque tables list MAXIMUM torque specs based on bolt
strength ALONE. They have nothing to do with applications
Clay
frijoli
> Jack Hunt <jhu...@tds.net> wrote:
>
>> Is there a copy of Andy Pugh's Threaded Fastener FAQ online anywhere?
>
> Blimey. Has anyone heard anything of AtP?
>
frijoli
Bob Scott
>Jack Hunt <jhu...@tds.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Is there a copy of Andy Pugh's Threaded Fastener FAQ online anywhere?
>
>Blimey. Has anyone heard anything of AtP?
>
I'll see if I can find the URL for his FAQ
--
Bob Scott
paul c
> ...
>
> Torque tables are related to MAINLY, minor diameter of the bolt, bolt
> stretch, and material of the bolt or material threaded into. There can
> be many torque specs for an M8- 1.25 pitch depending on the material
> it's made from and the material it's threaded into.
>
> There is very little difference in torque specs based on thread pitches,
> because the root or minor diameter doesn't change much. Which is one
> reason why you don't see references to pitch in a generic torque table.
>
> Also generic torque tables list MAXIMUM torque specs based on bolt
> strength ALONE. They have nothing to do with applications
>
Another factor, sometimes, is the bolt head design. Some heads have serrations underneath and some have an angular undercut of several degrees, but you have to look pretty closely to see it. I think Honda sometimes calls one or the other 'high-tension' bolts.
frijoli
I am familiar with theses, but was under the impression that they were
for SURFACE tension. Hence the High tension designation. Usually
designed into vibration susceptible areas.
It probably effects the torque reading during install.
Clay
paul c
...
>
>> I think Honda sometimes calls one or the other 'high-tension' bolts.
>
>
> I am familiar with theses, but was under the impression that they were
> for SURFACE tension. Hence the High tension designation. Usually
> designed into vibration susceptible areas.
>
> It probably effects the torque reading during install.
Makes sense. I was trying to think of reasons for different torque values for the same size and same stength bolt. I suppose another reason besides the ones given so far might be thickness of the parts. Then there are those bolts that the manuals say to use some grade or other of loc-tite with.
Another question that the original post made me wonder about is kind of hard for me to put precisely, but I'll try: Given that the effect of a threaded fastener in the first place is to multiply the surface areas under tension (eg., one turn of a thread has less surface area than two turns, and so forth), what factors would favour an M8 with 1.00 pitch versus an M8 with 1.25 pitch? I gather both have an 'angle' of about 60 degrees and if the face of the thread were the same 'height' for both, I guess that would mean the 1.00 mm pitch screw/bolt would have more surface area. Or do the 1.25 mm pitch bolts have 'deeper' threads, giving them more surface (but also reducing the core 'thickness' of the bolt)? Just curious about how the engineers go about deciding this.
(Although I don't know much about fasteners, I've often scratched my head when I saw people buy stainless bolts at the hardware store, then use factory torque values to tighten them even though the stainless steel surely has a different strength than, say, a 10.8 grade factory bolt. I suppose it doesn't matter much for parts like valve covers, but for parts that are under big internal pressures or heavy vibration, it seems a bit dumb to me. Maybe there's not much difference between the strength of stainless bolts and typical high-tensile factory bolts and most of the tinkerers who I happen to know seem to create as many other problems as they solve whenever they take something apart, and even more when they put it back together! Personally, if it's not a spark plug hole and if there's room, I prefer to tap to a larger size rather than use one of the insert coil devices, even if that means mixing SAE sizes with metric. I know one daytime Porsche mechanic who refused to use
a heli-coil on his neighbour's outboard without taking the head off first.)
frijoli
> frijoli wrote:
> ...
>>
>>> I think Honda sometimes calls one or the other 'high-tension' bolts.
>>
>>
>> I am familiar with theses, but was under the impression that they were
>> for SURFACE tension. Hence the High tension designation. Usually
>> designed into vibration susceptible areas.
>>
>> It probably effects the torque reading during install.
>
> Makes sense. I was trying to think of reasons for different torque
> values for the same size and same stength bolt. I suppose another
> reason besides the ones given so far might be thickness of the parts.
> Then there are those bolts that the manuals say to use some grade or
> other of loc-tite with.
>
> Another question that the original post made me wonder about is kind of
> hard for me to put precisely, but I'll try: Given that the effect of a
> threaded fastener in the first place is to multiply the surface areas
> under tension (eg., one turn of a thread has less surface area than two
> turns, and so forth), what factors would favour an M8 with 1.00 pitch
> versus an M8 with 1.25 pitch?
is The softer the material, the coarser the thread. Because the coarse
thread has a deeper valley, allowing more material to "bite" into, or
hold onto, as the case may be.
I gather both have an 'angle' of about 60
> degrees and if the face of the thread were the same 'height' for both,
they aren't(see above)
> I guess that would mean the 1.00 mm pitch screw/bolt would have more
> surface area. Or do the 1.25 mm pitch bolts have 'deeper' threads,
> giving them more surface (but also reducing the core 'thickness' of the
> bolt)?
(see above)
Just curious about how the engineers go about deciding this.
Again this relates more to the mating material. Whether that be a nut or
an engine case.
Finer pitch threads allow for more tension with the same torque at
installation. So mating materials and thread pitch are related here as well.
> (Although I don't know much about fasteners, I've often scratched my
> head when I saw people buy stainless bolts at the hardware store, then
> use factory torque values to tighten them even though the stainless
> steel surely has a different strength than, say, a 10.8 grade factory
> bolt. I suppose it doesn't matter much for parts like valve covers, but
> for parts that are under big internal pressures or heavy vibration, it
> seems a bit dumb to me.
If the torque is specified by the mating material, then it probably
doesn't matter in light to medium applications. Head bolts would be a
different story altogether. The torque specs here, and rod bolts and
such are almost always related to full bolt tension.
>Maybe there's not much difference between the strength of stainless bolts and typical high-tensile factory bolts
There most definitely is! Stainless is much less strong than a typical
High grade bolt! In fact Hardware store stainless bolts are low tensile
strength, sometimes as low as a grade two bolt. Typical socket head
screws are grade 8 bolts. Which is two standard grades above a grade 2
hardware store screw. i would never recommend less than grade five on
any motorcycle, or automotive application, and anything related to
suspension, or wheels, or brakes go with grade 8.
> and most of the tinkerers who I happen to know seem to create as many other
> problems as they solve whenever they take something apart, and even more
> when they put it back together! Personally, if it's not a spark plug
> hole and if there's room, I prefer to tap to a larger size rather than
> use one of the insert coil devices, even if that means mixing SAE sizes
> with metric. I know one daytime Porsche mechanic who refused to use a
> heli-coil on his neighbour's outboard without taking the head off first.)
Actually, when you Heli-coil you are going up some in size. One
advantage of a Heli-coils is that you are engaging steel, rather than
twisting your fastener against softer materials like aluminum. You have
essentially one direction of force on the housing, instead of two.
Clay
Dr Ivan D. Reid
wrote in <0XqHbJBA...@bobandaileen.co.uk>:
>>> Is there a copy of Andy Pugh's Threaded Fastener FAQ online anywhere?
>>Blimey. Has anyone heard anything of AtP?
> Yeah, he's alive and well, rides an R1, lives in Essex & works for Ford.
Ah, that's a step up; he was working for Volvo last I saw him, IIRC.
I didn't get along with his R1, tho' -- couldn't adjust the clutch lever to
a comfortable angle.
> I'll see if I can find the URL for his FAQ
--
paul c
> paul c wrote:
>> frijoli wrote:
...
> is The softer the material, the coarser the thread. Because the coarse
> thread has a deeper valley, allowing more material to "bite" into, or
> hold onto, as the case may be.
>
> I gather both have an 'angle' of about 60
>> degrees and if the face of the thread were the same 'height' for both,
>
> they aren't(see above)
Thanks for that and the other comments.
Hank
"." <kRUSTY> wrote in message
news:e409621a-dab4-42d3...@r15g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
> Anyone know the thread pitch on Honda M8 bolts?
If you have a metric bolt, just lay a metric scale next to it.
1.0mm is a very common pitch.
Typical pitches are 0.5mm, 0.75mm, 1.0mm, 1.25mm and 1.5mm, from one
thread crest to the next.
.
> TRANSLATION: "I DON'T" Thanks for nothing again krusty!
Suck my dick, asshole!
Who *could* give a succinct answer to such a vague question as "Anyone
know the thread pitch on Honda M8 bolts?"
To answer a *stupid* question like that, I would have to know what
thread
Honda selected for *every* 8mm bolt on *every* model they ever built.
Instead, I told the lamer how to measure the pitch on the bolt he had
in his possession, and that's what he did, before spending his money
on a thread repair kit.
Hank
dipshit!
Your answer actually DID have a bit of relevance in this case (Tremendous
fucking shock there!) It would have helped a lot to explain how you, as a
particularly dense texan, came to understand a system describing length per
thread vs threads per inch. Amazingly your answer was about 100 lines less
than usual. On new meds???
"." <Rhia...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:5d5a53ae-8d69-4c33...@s24g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
.
> Your answer actually DID have a bit of relevance in this case (Tremendous
> fucking shock there!)
Glad you could swallow it, slime throat.
> It would have helped a lot to explain how you, as a
> particularly dense texan, came to understand a system describing length per
> thread vs threads per inch.
You like cowboys?
I'm not a Texan, I just found the hat. ;-)
> Amazingly your answer was about 100 lines less
> than usual. On new meds???
Naw, I'm just learning to condense my ideas, in order to communicate
with tiny minds.
Hank
(You seem to know quite a lot about deviant sexuality tho, take a wrong turn
in google, did we????)
"." <Rhia...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:0600bbad-0a06-4106...@35g2000pry.googlegroups.com...
.
> Heaven help us if you ever comment a subject you DO know something about.
Hey, I didn't notice *you* trying to answer the lame question about M8
thread pitch on Hondas, all you seem to ever do is snipe at people
trying to help.
Dr Ivan D. Reid
wrote in <2f280e3c-428d-4eca...@f40g2000pri.googlegroups.com>:
> trying to help.
There is no try. Do, or do not.
Hans-Christian Becker
Dr Ivan D. Reid <Ivan...@brunel.ac.uk> wrote:
>On Tue, 27 Jan 2009 12:03:29 -0800 (PST), . <Rhia...@gmail.com>
> wrote in <2f280e3c-428d-4eca...@f40g2000pri.googlegroups.com>:
>
>> trying to help.
>
> There is no try. Do, or do not.
In the words of Homer Simpson: "Remember, Bart: The first step towards
failure is trying."
--
Dr. Hans-Christian Becker
'96 VN750 SM5TLH KG6POK
Uppsala, Sweden
.
> On Tue, 27 Jan 2009 12:03:29 -0800 (PST), . <Rhiann...@gmail.com>
> wrote
> > trying to help.
>
> There is no try. Do, or do not.
Go find Yoda and fellate him.
*You* basically gave the lamer the same answer I did, i.e., *measure*
the frikkin' bolts he has available.
" Well, metric coarse M8 is 1.25, metric fine M8 is 1.0. I'd
expect
Honda to use fine on engine parts, but that's just an edjumificated
guess...
This is where calipers, thread gauges, or plain rulers cumin handy --
assuming
you've got a sample to test, of course."
.
wrote:
> In article <slrngo1gg5.2on.Ivan.R...@loki.brunel.ac.uk>,
> In the words of Homer Simpson: "Remember, Bart: The first step towards
> failure is trying."
Who the fuck *failed*? The lamer did what was suggested, he *measured*
a gawdamned bolt that he had and found the required answer for
himself.
Like I said before, in order to tell the lamer what the thread pitch
was on a 8mm bolt on a Honda motorcycle that he never bothered to
identify, I would have to have worked on every motorcycle Honda ever
made and know what the thread pitch was on every gawdmaned 8mm bolt.
Is that reasonable logic, or do I need a nuclear physicist to clarify
it further?
The Older Gentleman
> *You* basically gave the lamer the same answer I did, i.e., *measure*
> the frikkin' bolts he has available.
Yes, and you snipped that out to make it seem as if yours was the only
such advice.
.
Gentleman) wrote:
> Yes, and you snipped that out to make it seem as if yours was the only
> such advice.
ESAD.
The Older Gentleman
Have you ever thought of being *polite* and *reasonable* to people? I
mean, one reason why you get such a hammering is because you're so
unpleasant to*everyone*.
Ivan - one of the mildest-mannered bods in Creation, utterly superb
chap, cleverer than anyone I've met, and you throw obscenities at him in
reply to a sensible posting he made.
Dr Ivan D. Reid
<totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk>
wrote in <1iugjao.1achcf77lhtfxN%totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk>:
> . <Rhia...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Ivan - one of the mildest-mannered bods in Creation, utterly superb
> chap, cleverer than anyone I've met, and you throw obscenities at him in
> reply to a sensible posting he made.
No, I will not buy your Ténéré -- it has a Gefücktealternatormaschin!
;-)
The Older Gentleman
> On Sun, 1 Feb 2009 11:48:51 +0000, The Older Gentleman
> <totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk>
> wrote in <1iugjao.1achcf77lhtfxN%totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk>:
> > . <Rhia...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Ivan - one of the mildest-mannered bods in Creation, utterly superb
> > chap, cleverer than anyone I've met, and you throw obscenities at him in
> > reply to a sensible posting he made.
>
> No, I will not buy your Ténéré -- it has a Gefücktealternatormaschin!
>
> ;-)
Ja, mein herr.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F SH50
Hans-Christian Becker
><totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk>
> wrote in <1iugjao.1achcf77lhtfxN%totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk>:
>> . <Rhia...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Ivan - one of the mildest-mannered bods in Creation, utterly superb
>> chap, cleverer than anyone I've met, and you throw obscenities at him in
>> reply to a sensible posting he made.
>
> No, I will not buy your Ténéré -- it has a Gefücktealternatormaschin!
But it *did* easy schappen der shpringenverk, blowenfusen unt poppencorken
mit spitzensparken.
The Older Gentleman
Nein! Nein! Keine sparken: das der bloody trouble vas.
Ich ver down der autobahn verriding und sudden der silenz und der
deadlichten and der totaller electrickenfailure.
Und der gemelted wiringbits, und der schmell of der cookedalternator.
Ja.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F SH50
Hans-Christian Becker
The Older Gentleman <totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>Hans-Christian Becker <h...@fki030.fki.uu.se> wrote:
>
>> In article <slrngobpjs.2...@loki.brunel.ac.uk>,
>> Dr Ivan D. Reid <Ivan...@brunel.ac.uk> wrote:
>> >On Sun, 1 Feb 2009 11:48:51 +0000, The Older Gentleman
>> ><totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk>
>> > wrote in <1iugjao.1achcf77lhtfxN%totallyde...@yahoo.co.uk>:
>> >> . <Rhia...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Ivan - one of the mildest-mannered bods in Creation, utterly superb
>> >> chap, cleverer than anyone I've met, and you throw obscenities at him in
>> >> reply to a sensible posting he made.
>> >
>> > No, I will not buy your Ténéré -- it has a Gefücktealternatormaschin!
>>
>> But it *did* easy schappen der shpringenverk, blowenfusen unt poppencorken
>> mit spitzensparken.
>
>Nein! Nein! Keine sparken: das der bloody trouble vas.
>
>Ich ver down der autobahn verriding und sudden der silenz und der
>deadlichten and der totaller electrickenfailure.
>
>Und der gemelted wiringbits, und der schmell of der cookedalternator.
>Ja.
Heh. Great pictures, BTW---it looks like you had a blast despite the breakdown.
The "..., dead bike[r]s" had me worried for some time, though!
>--
>BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F SH50
>If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it. Workshop manual?
>Buy one instead of asking where the free PDFs are
>chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
The Older Gentleman
> BTW---it looks like you had a blast despite the breakdown.
Oh yes, absolutely.
On a technical level, the bike was repairable, relatively easily. But I
absolutely *have* to be in London at 1530 local on 2 February, for one
of those potentially life-changing meetings. I'm sure you know what I
mean.
I could not spend four days in Deggendorf waiting for Yamaha spares. I
could not get the bike back, that distance, economically, on my own. And
the bike was dirt cheap.
Ergo: sell it for whatever you could and take a smaller financial hit.
There are *lots* of bikes out there.
.
Gentleman) wrote:
> I could not spend four days in Deggendorf waiting for Yamaha spares. I
> could not get the bike back, that distance, economically, on my own. And
> the bike was dirt cheap.
> Ergo: sell it for whatever you could and take a smaller financial hit.
> There are *lots* of bikes out there.
And there are NO trucking companies in Germany and nobody knows how to
crate up a broken bike and ship it to you in Sutton for maybe 200
Euros...
Right...
The Older Gentleman
> On Feb 1, 1:30 pm, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
> Gentleman) wrote:
>
> > I could not spend four days in Deggendorf waiting for Yamaha spares. I
> > could not get the bike back, that distance, economically, on my own. And
> > the bike was dirt cheap.
> > Ergo: sell it for whatever you could and take a smaller financial hit.
> > There are *lots* of bikes out there.
>
> And there are NO trucking companies in Germany
Yes, I could have got it home. But it wasn't financially worthwhile. You
haven't thought this through - again. First, this was a weekend. No
chance of doing *anything* for another two nights. So I've got to stop
in Germany for two nights. More expense. Or I get home and arrange it
from London. Not so easy.
>and nobody knows how to
> crate up a broken bike and ship it to you in Sutton for maybe 200
> Euros...
>
That's a firm quote, is it? Or a guess?
Storage charges - the bike's got to be kept somewhere. Transport of the
bike to a trucking company. Or collection.
Even if it could be done for 200 euros, that's still £200. Plus the cost
of repair in the UK. Not financially worthwhile. That starts loading the
cost of what was viewed as a disposable sub-$1000 motorcycle. There is
just no point in throwing money at something like that.
As it is, I cut my liability on the bike to a mere £500. I know that
unemployed lusers like you regard that as a fortune, but it's a sum I
can afford to lose. The alternative: load (easily) another $600 of
recovery and repair costs, plus amazing hassle, onto a sub-$1000 bike.
You really *are* stupid, aren't you?
And besides: my bike, and I can do what I want with it.
Timo Geusch
> . <Rhia...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On Feb 1, 1:30 pm, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
>> Gentleman) wrote:
>>
>> > I could not spend four days in Deggendorf waiting for Yamaha spares. I
>> > could not get the bike back, that distance, economically, on my own. And
>> > the bike was dirt cheap.
>> > Ergo: sell it for whatever you could and take a smaller financial hit.
>> > There are *lots* of bikes out there.
>>
>> And there are NO trucking companies in Germany
>
> Yes, I could have got it home. But it wasn't financially worthwhile. You
> haven't thought this through - again. First, this was a weekend. No
> chance of doing *anything* for another two nights. So I've got to stop
> in Germany for two nights. More expense. Or I get home and arrange it
> from London. Not so easy.
>
>>and nobody knows how to
>> crate up a broken bike and ship it to you in Sutton for maybe 200
>> Euros...
>>
> That's a firm quote, is it? Or a guess?
>
> Storage charges - the bike's got to be kept somewhere. Transport of the
> bike to a trucking company. Or collection.
Of course it's a firm quote from him, given that he seems to be talking
out of his usual orifice.
I happen to know how much it costs to get a partial truck load from
Munich to London using a reliable trucking company, because I've done
that in the past. IIRC the minimum they charge would've been in the
order of half the value of the bike. This would include picking it up
and potential storing it at their premises for a short amount of time
but between that and potentially having to spend a day at home at very
short notice so the bike could be delivered, this is simply
uneconomical.
--
Morini Corsaro 125 | CB450K4 | XL250 Motosport | 900SSD | R1150RT
Laverda SF2 | Harley FXD BOTAFOF #33 TWA#10
The UKRM FAQ: http://www.ukrm.net/faq/index.html
"Je profite du paysage" - Joe Bar
The Older Gentleman
> I happen to know how much it costs to get a partial truck load from
> Munich to London using a reliable trucking company, because I've done
> that in the past. IIRC the minimum they charge would've been in the
> order of half the value of the bike. This would include picking it up
> and potential storing it at their premises for a short amount of time
> but between that and potentially having to spend a day at home at very
> short notice so the bike could be delivered, this is simply
> uneconomical.
Quite. This is what I'm trying to beat into his skull :-)
I'm irritated at losing what had been a good practical bike - who
wouldn't be? But it's bangernomics we're talking here. When a vehicle
regarded as disposable gives up the ghost, you jettison it and move on.
At least it got me *to* the Elefant :-))
S'mee
Gentleman) wrote:
SNIP
> At least it got me *to* the Elefant :-))
At that price...fugeddaboutit. It got you there dinnit? It was
fun eh? Then what the hey...It's like getting up in the morning and
seeing yard full of dead soldiers and realizing the stores are closed
it's a holiday. It got you there, it was fun and hey there will be
more.
At least you didn't shell out $50usd for a 2 year only
DR370...needs an exhaust fab'd from scratch, new clutch (it's beyond
wore out), new cables and head light. I'll make a new seat cover out
of duct tape. 8^)
p.s.primary muffler is a can of beans and the secondary an olive oil
tin 1L. The secret name for insanity is cheap bikes.
--
Keith
.
Gentleman) wrote:
> I'm irritated at losing what had been a good practical bike - who
> wouldn't be? But it's bangernomics we're talking here. When a vehicle
> regarded as disposable gives up the ghost, you jettison it and move on.
Hey, you stupid *cunt*, you don't have a *clue* as to what a brand
loyalty rally is all about.
>
> At least it got me *to* the Elefant :-))
On the *wrong* kind of bike, you *twat*. You needed to be riding a
restored 1957 Zundapp "green elephant" to be brand loyal, not some
modern *Yamaha* you won on an ebay auction.
But, that's what *always* happens to rallies of the True Believers.
They get discovered by the frat boys and suddenly they're in the
middle of "Burning Man" on top of a mountain in the Bavarian Alps,
instead of an annual pilgimage of the faithful.
The Older Gentleman
I love this. Someone who has *no idea* and who has never been there,
telling us what the Elefant Rally should be.
Listen, you sick-shit pervert. It has *nothing* to do with the type of
bike you take. It is not a "brand" rally.
.
Gentleman) wrote:
> I love this. Someone who has *no idea* and who has never been there,
> telling us what the Elefant Rally should be.
And where do *you* think the the Elephant Trek got its name from,
maybe Hannibal crossing the Alps with a herd of elephants?
Timo Geusch
> Listen, you sick-shit pervert. It has *nothing* to do with the type of
> bike you take. It is not a "brand" rally.
But it is, as it requires a certain brand of insanity to even take
part.
The Older Gentleman
You've been trying to Google, and present your findings as pre-gained
knowledge, and you've got it *wrong*.
Again.
Back to your under-age girls.
S'mee
Gentleman) wrote:
> . <Rhiann...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > On Feb 2, 1:33 am, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
> > Gentleman) wrote:
>
> > > I'm irritated at losing what had been a good practical bike - who
> > > wouldn't be? But it's bangernomics we're talking here. When a vehicle
> > > regarded as disposable gives up the ghost, you jettison it and move on.
>
> > Hey, you stupid *cunt*, you don't have a *clue* as to what a brand
> > loyalty rally is all about.
>
> > > At least it got me *to* the Elefant :-))
>
> > On the *wrong* kind of bike, you *twat*. You needed to be riding a
> > restored 1957 Zundapp "green elephant" to be brand loyal, not some
> > modern *Yamaha* you won on an ebay auction.
>
> > But, that's what *always* happens to rallies of the True Believers.
> > They get discovered by the frat boys and suddenly they're in the
> > middle of "Burning Man" on top of a mountain in the Bavarian Alps,
> > instead of an annual pilgimage of the faithful.
>
> I love this. Someone who has *no idea* and who has never been there,
> telling us what the Elefant Rally should be.
>
> Listen, you sick-shit pervert. It has *nothing* to do with the type of
> bike you take. It is not a "brand" rally.
Oh give up...he's no fun when his med keep yo-yoing. Just ignore the
delusional loser for a while. That ought to driver his perverted mind
into quiet a frothing state.
--
Keith
S'mee
wrote:
> totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older Gentleman) writes:
>
> > Listen, you sick-shit pervert. It has *nothing* to do with the type of
> > bike you take. It is not a "brand" rally.
>
> But it is, as it requires a certain brand of insanity to even take
> part.
Touche' so if a crazy american showed up on a custovated T-500...noone
would find it odd?
--
keith
The Older Gentleman
They'd be a bit surprised to see such a modern sporty bike, and one not
attached to a sidecar.
.
> Touche' so if a crazy american showed up on a custovated T-500...noone
> would find it odd?
You've always been "odd", and you always will be "odd".
But at least the admission that you just may be "crazy" is progress.
However, a lunatic is *not* what we're looking for in
rec.motorcycles.tech.
What we *are* looking for is economical approaches to reapiring
motorcycles.
However, that doesn't include making mufflers out of institutional-
sized Campbell's soup cans...
.
Gentleman) wrote:
> You've been trying to Google, and present your findings as pre-gained
> knowledge, and you've got it *wrong*.
So you rode out but flew back, *sans* motorbike, and you're an expert?
I hope you won't wear the ride pin or badge.
Those memorabilia are for riders who *completed* the rally, not for
the failures.
The Older Gentleman
> On Feb 2, 12:08 pm, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
> Gentleman) wrote:
>
> > You've been trying to Google, and present your findings as pre-gained
> > knowledge, and you've got it *wrong*.
>
> So you rode out but flew back, *sans* motorbike, and you're an expert?
No way. But I know more about it than you. You've made yourself look a
fool with every posting in this thread.
>
> I hope you won't wear the ride pin or badge.
How little you know. This isn't like one of your Yank cavalcade things.
>
> Those memorabilia are for riders who *completed* the rally, not for
> the failures.
Says who? I didn't see you there. But then, there weren't any under-age
girls for you to fantasise about.
The Older Gentleman
> What we *are* looking for is economical approaches to reapiring
> motorcycles.
Says who? Read the charter. Like I told you before.
.
Gentleman) wrote:
> Says who? Read the charter. Like I told you before.
Charter, schmarter. Nobody comes into rmt looking to find a limey turd
floating in the punchbowl.
If they wanted limey crap, they would go straight to ukrm.