Help removing sportster sprocket
Daryl E. Doan
sporster. Unfortunately I can't get the sprocket nut off.
I've tried WD-40, liquid wrench, a propane torch, and animal
sacrifices to God -- but to no avail. I estimate that I've
put at least 300-350 lbs torque on the thing. Is this normal?
Do I need to start working out at the gym? Any suggestions?
And yes, I *am* turning it the right way.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Daryl Doan
do...@eniac.seas.upenn.edu
Adis Israngkura
: I'm replacing the stock front sprocket for my 91 chain drive
: sporster. Unfortunately I can't get the sprocket nut off.
Hi Daryl
I just removed mine not long ago and it was from a 93 Softail. I
take it that you are referring to the compensating sprocket inside the
primary chain unit. All I did was to use a power impact wrench I rented
for $20 and it came right off. I tried to turn it by hand but it did not
work because I already had the wheels off so I could not lock it. The
front compensating sprocket has to normal right turn threads unlike the
mainshaft nut inside the clutch which had the left hand threads. I also
removed that mainshaft nut the same way by just reversing the power inpact
wrench.
Adis
Daryl E. Doan
: Daryl E. Doan (do...@eniac.seas.upenn.edu) wrote:
: : I'm replacing the stock front sprocket for my 91 chain drive
: : sporster. Unfortunately I can't get the sprocket nut off.
: Hi Daryl
: I just removed mine not long ago and it was from a 93 Softail. I
: take it that you are referring to the compensating sprocket inside the
: primary chain unit. All I did was to use a power impact wrench I rented
: for $20 and it came right off.
: Adis
Actually I was referring to the front sprocket for the *rear*
chain. An impact wrench will be my last resort -- I guess
I was wondering if there was any chance of doing it by hand
and saving the 20 bucks.
Thanks
Daryl
David DeCoster
Well, they do make a special tool for this thing. It costs about $25.
Before I had this tool I used to 1) make sure you got the lock washer
ears bent back. 2) Used a hammer and a punch or chisel on the flat of
the nut to beat it off. A chisel will give you more leverage but you will
have to replace the nut when you are done.
This tool looks like a mushroom. Its got a long hollow shank and the
wide end is flat and looks like a real shallow socket. The whole thing
slips over the mainshaft of the tranny and then over the nut. You got
to leave your rear drive chain on. An impact wrench will work much
better than the breaker bar that comes with it. You can get this nifty
tool from you friendly HD dealer or go to an independent shop and
get one from Drag Specialties. If you get this thing you will have a
lot of new friends.
--
Davey D
For those who understand, NO explanation
is needed, for those who don't understand,
NO explanation will be given!
Ron Orr
: sporster. Unfortunately I can't get the sprocket nut off.
I had the same problem with a '92 sportster. I rented a 3/4" drive rachet
wrench and a 1 7/8" socket. After blocking the rear wheel to keep the bike
from rolling backwards (the front sprocket of the drive belt is reverse
threaded) the nut came loose after I sat on the bike to get leverage. Maybe
putting on that Locktite 271 was not such a good idea after all....
honey wagon music
the old one off.. the screww turns and turns but nothing happens...
i looked in the manual and it should just thread right in there. anyone
have any ideas?
thanks
keith
elect...@camins.camosun.bc.ca
my friend's '90 has a tiny socket head screw used as a locking device next to
the nut, did you remove it (assuming you have one on yours) ???
Hugh Hinskens, 77 XL, 73 NOR 750, 66 TRI "Daytona", 70 TRI TR25W
Daryl E. Doan
Yeah I removed it, you can't get at the nut otherwise. I guess
I lack the bodyweight/armstrength to get the nut off with just
a ratchet and a bar. I going for the impact wrench today. I realized
after my post that this question was kind of silly, but I
was hoping for a reply like "Yeah I tried this once, you
definitely will (or will not) get it off with an ordinary ratchet."
Daryl
Jeff Faist x2283
: : the nut, did you remove it (assuming you have one on yours) ???
:
: : Hugh Hinskens, 77 XL, 73 NOR 750, 66 TRI "Daytona", 70 TRI TR25W
:
: Yeah I removed it, you can't get at the nut otherwise. I guess
: I lack the bodyweight/armstrength to get the nut off with just
: a ratchet and a bar. I going for the impact wrench today. I realized
: after my post that this question was kind of silly, but I
: was hoping for a reply like "Yeah I tried this once, you
: definitely will (or will not) get it off with an ordinary ratchet."
:
:
: Daryl
:
I changed my front sprocket and had no problems at all getting it off.
Has it been removed before? if so did they lock tight it maybe.?
Guess I've been lucky on my bike.
I have the tiny socket head screw used as a locking device next to the nut as well.
I did locktight (blue stuff) that when I put it back on.
Jeff
[][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][] /
[ Jeffrey W. Faist ] \ / /
[ Timberline Tape Division, StorageTek ] \\\' , / //
[ Logical: Jeff_...@stortek.com ] \\\//, _/ //,
[ Audible: (303) 673-2283 ] \_-//' / //<,
[ Physical: StorageTek ] \ /// <//`
[ 2270 S. 88th St, M.S. 0224, ] / >> \\\`__/_
[ Louisville, CO 80028-0224 ] /,)-^>> _\` \\\
[ FAX : (303)-673-7694 ] (/ \\ //\\
[ ] // _//\\\\
[][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][] ((` ((
Daryl E. Doan
: I changed my front sprocket and had no problems at all getting it off.
: Has it been removed before? if so did they lock tight it maybe.?
: Guess I've been lucky on my bike.
: I have the tiny socket head screw used as a locking device next to the nut as well.
: I did locktight (blue stuff) that when I put it back on.
: Jeff
In my repair manual they recomend loctite 271 (red) for the nut
itself (if memory serves). Since the nut is torqued to a max
of only 150 lbs I'm assuming that they loctite it from the
factory.
In any case, it doesn't matter anymore 'cause I wheeled the
bike down to the local auto repair shop and gave the guy $5
to knock the nut off with his air wrench. No problem.
Should have thought of that a long time ago.
Thanks for the replies
Daryl
Chris BeHanna
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Ack! If you're going to use Loctite on an application like that,
use 242 (the blue stuff)!!!
271 (the red stuff) is for interior engine bolts (rod bolts, for
example) that you don't want coming apart on their own no-way, no-how. You
have to heat the parts with a torch to make 271 give up.
Then there's the green stuff, which is intended for stuff that NEVER
gets disassembled.
--
Chris BeHanna DoD# 114 KotSTA Ed Green 1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
beh...@syl.nj.nec.com Fan Club #004 1991 ZX-11 - Zexy
kore wa NEC no iken dewa arimasen. FOLMA #17 1973 RD350A - seized
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs. 1987 EX500 - the RaceBike
Chris BeHanna
:>Jeff Faist x2283 (fa...@stortek.com) wrote:
:>
:>: I changed my front sprocket and had no problems at all getting it off.
:>: Has it been removed before? if so did they lock tight it maybe.?
:>: Guess I've been lucky on my bike.
:>: I have the tiny socket head screw used as a locking device next to the nut as well.
:>: I did locktight (blue stuff) that when I put it back on.
:>: Jeff
:> In my repair manual they recomend loctite 271 (red) for the nut
:> itself (if memory serves). Since the nut is torqued to a max
:> of only 150 lbs I'm assuming that they loctite it from the
:> factory.
I think your memory is faulty. Why on earth would they use 271 on
the nut itself if they're already putting a setscrew in there and loctiting
THAT?
:> In any case, it doesn't matter anymore 'cause I wheeled the
:> bike down to the local auto repair shop and gave the guy $5
:> to knock the nut off with his air wrench. No problem.
:> Should have thought of that a long time ago.
That's how I got my compensating sprocket nut off when I redid
Red's primary, except the gas station guy did it for free. ;-)
Seth Zirin
Chris BeHanna <beh...@syl.nj.nec.com> wrote:
> Ack! If you're going to use Loctite on an application like that,
>use 242 (the blue stuff)!!!
>
> 271 (the red stuff) is for interior engine bolts (rod bolts, for
>example) that you don't want coming apart on their own no-way, no-how. You
>have to heat the parts with a torch to make 271 give up.
>
> Then there's the green stuff, which is intended for stuff that NEVER
>gets disassembled.
What is the correct Loctite to use when attaching a timer rotor
to the end of the camshaft? The service manual says to use
Loctite "Lock and Seal" but I've never heard of it. What is
this stuff?
--
Seth Zirin
s...@mare.att.com
Chris BeHanna
:>In article <2tinf3$9...@newsserver.nj.nec.com>,
I don't know what it is. Here is the Loctite data that I have:
(Message bike:3)
Return-Path: list...@thumper.lerc.nasa.gov
To: ra...@thumper.lerc.nasa.gov, duc...@myrddin.imat.com
Subject: Loctite Retaining Compounds
Date: Wed, 18 May 1994 11:43:10 -0700
From: Mike Lee - Team Banana Racing <mi...@ichips.intel.com>
Sender: owner...@thumper.lerc.nasa.gov
Reply-To: ra...@thumper.lerc.nasa.gov
Precedence: Bulk
This might be of sufficient general interest to all:
(fwd from hotrod mail list)
Loctite Retaining Compounds
- ---------------------------
Notes:
+ The gap fills are all *maximum*. According to the guy at Loctite when I
asked these very questions some time ago, the optimum gap is between 0.001"
and 0.002" (0.002 to 0.004 diametral) for any of theses adhesives.
+ This table refers to the *retaining compunds*, not *threadlock compunds*
+ The viscosity "Low/Med./High" is from the descriptions for each product
+ The '660' is referred to as 'Quick Metal', considered a non-running product
+ If you're using another brand (is there any other ? :) you're on your own.
+ Cure Speed assumes no accelerator is used. Activators/accelerators may
improve the gap filling capabilities slightly as well as ensuring proper/
faster curing respectively. If you need to accelerate it, talk to your
dealer; I don't have any specific numbers.
+ Primers are useful on inactive surfaces such as aluminum, black oxide,
stainless steel and thermoset plastics
+ Remember... *CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN* !!!
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Compound No. 609 620 635 640 642 660 675 680
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Color Green Green Green Green Green Silver Green Green
*Maximum*
Gap Fill 0.005" 0.015" 0.010" 0.007" 0.012" 0.020" 0.005" 0.015"
(Diametral)
Viscosity V.Low High High Med. Med. !!!! Low Med.
(cP) 125 7000 2000 600 500 1200000 125 1250
Shear (psi) 3000 3000 4000 3000 3500 3000 3000 4000
Temp Range(F)
Low -65 -65 -65 -65 -65 -65 -65 -65
High 300 450 300 400 350 300 300 300
Cure Speed
Fixture (Min) 10 30 60 60 5 10 20 10
Full (Hrs) 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 24
Primer T or N T T T T or N N T T
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Uses:
609: spindle bearings, lip seals, bearing races
620: engine cylinder liners, heat exchanger tubes
635: gears, pulleys, fans, collars, rotors, sprockets, cams and flywheels
to shafts.
640: bushings and sleeves, rotors to shafts
642: bushings in manual transmissions
660: worn shafts, worn housings, worn end bells, bearing spinouts,
wallowed keyways, wallowed splines
675: oil impregnated bushings, drill bushings
680: gears, wheels, pulleys, cams, collars, flywheels, sprockets, and rotors
to shafts, replacement bearings in worn housings or on worn shafts.