Panhead Electronic Fuel Injection
Garrett
Fuel Injection for this bike. I have a Mallory dual fire electronic
ignition to be installed and was wondering if there is an EFI system
that is compatible with a kick start Panhead. Before I started the
overhaul, I had an S&S carb., before that a Rivera SU. It has dual
plug STD heads, but the engine was still very, very hard to start when
cold. At that time it had a Spyke single fire ignition with Crane dual
coils which was total shit. Very weak spark and useless to start the
engine when cold. I'm convinced the Spyke igniion was the culprit. I
gave it to a friend and owner of the local motorcyle shop and he had
the same results with it on his Panhead. I'm 58 yrs. old and need for
my old Pan to start within at least 30 kicks when cold. The engine has
a 4 1/2 inch stroke, 3 5/8 cylinders. all S&S. A Sun active balancing
system machined into the flywheels. Andrews B cam, S&S cast pistons
and approx. 8 to 1 comp. ratio. 93 inches. Thanks for any input and
advice.
Garrett Fulton
Nasty
Hey! What the fuck is this motorcycle shit doing in here?
Kuda
When you've got a problem kick starting a pan, something is wrong with
the bike. Period. And fuel injection ain't gonna fix it. You've got
one of several problems: timing is wrong (my best guess), intake leak
(usually the manifold, but sometimes the head nipples), mis-adjusted
pushrods (too tight, usually), or bad plugs/plug wires. Wires and
plugs are easy to check/replace, I'd do that first just to make sure
you're on steady ground. Check/gap the plugs correctly, then warm it
up good and set the timing dead nuts with a strobe light. If that
doesn't fix it, move on to the intake manifold. STD dual plug heads
usually come with late model o-ring intake nipples, so that's where
I'd start. If you can pressure test 'em, do that. Just make/buy an
adapter to bolt on the intake (in place of the carb), run it up to
12-15psi, and start spraying soapy water around the seals. ANY
bubbles is bad news, even little tiny ones. Take your time and work
slowly, it needs to be 100% air tight. If you can't pressure test it,
your only other option is to just assume the seals are bad and replace
'em. Don't over torque the clamps, either, they're not supposed to
support the carb, they're just supposed to squeeze the seals enough to
fill the space between the intake manifold and the heads (you should
always have an external carb support for that purpose). If you get
through all that and it's not any easier to start, come back and we'll
work from there...
-Kuda
Bob La Londe
"Garrett" <lbfu...@alltel.net> wrote in message
news:9064ed02-b356-45b3...@w40g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
Presure relief for kicking?
--
Bob La Londe
Fishing Arizona & The Colorado River
Fishing Forums & Contests
http://www.YumaBassMan.com
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
nunya
"Kuda" <fxd...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:9803a0dc-bda0-460e...@s6g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
<snipperoo>
> When you've got a problem kick starting a pan, something is wrong with
> the bike. Period. And fuel injection ain't gonna fix it. You've got
> one of several problems:
>
> -Kuda
*word*
folks have been kickstarting pans for decades. i have several friends whose
always start on the first or second kick unless it is really cold then it
takes three. if your wrench says there is not something else wrong then
find a new wrench.
michael