KDX Flywheel Removal

[Robert H. Yang]

Hi,

Well I got the KDX's front end aligned properly. Thanks for all the
advice, guys. It was less a crooked bike and more a crooked rider... Oh,
my aching back.

Anyhow, among other repairs to the bike, I'm going to be replacing the
magneto stator. I figure if I can get hold of a "gear holder" (special
Kawasaki tool) to hold the flywheel in place (as I'm also installing a clutch
kit - the old plates are fucked), then I ought to be able to remove the
flywheel bolt and use a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off.

My question is, can you use one of those generic pullers like out
of the back of the Dennis Kirk catalog, or do you have to use the Kaw tool ?
The special tool costs $20 more.

Rob
--
Rob Yang (Pittsburgh, PA, U.S.A) RY...@DRYCAS.CLUB.CC.CMU.EDU
Systems Engineer - AEG Automation Systems Corp.
'92 CBR600F2 (Hon) AMA 642916 DoD 0593 FSSNOC 1721 '87 KDX200 (Moose)

[Mark Engel]

In article <1993Feb9.2...@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu> ry...@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu writes:
>Hi,
>
> Well I got the KDX's front end aligned properly. Thanks for all the
>advice, guys. It was less a crooked bike and more a crooked rider... Oh,
>my aching back.
>
> Anyhow, among other repairs to the bike, I'm going to be replacing the
>magneto stator. I figure if I can get hold of a "gear holder" (special
>Kawasaki tool) to hold the flywheel in place (as I'm also installing a clutch
>kit - the old plates are fucked), then I ought to be able to remove the
>flywheel bolt and use a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off.
>
> My question is, can you use one of those generic pullers like out
>of the back of the Dennis Kirk catalog, or do you have to use the Kaw tool ?
>The special tool costs $20 more.
>
>Rob

Rob,

The flywheel has no holes in it on the sides for a generic puller
to grab. The indentations on the sides just don't have enough
'cut' in them to bite on. If your generic puller can get behind
the flywheel, it will probably work. I bought an aftermarket
Kawi puller for about ten bucks.....

You don't need the 'gear holder' special tool. Spend your money
on the flywheel puller. Whenever removing the clutch basket or
flywheel, you have two options on the KDX. 1) Rotate the engine
to bottom dead center and shove a CLEAN NYLON rope into the spark
plug hole until the cavity is full (I've never done this, but
know folks that do it all the time). 2) Insert a piece of wood
into the gears (main crank gear & clutch basket gear) and loosen.
The later one I do all the time, but make sure its hardwood......

try it, it works
Mark Engel

[Ken Murphy]

Robert H. Yang (ry...@drycas.club.cc.cmu.edu) wrote:
: Hi,

: Anyhow, among other repairs to the bike, I'm going to be replacing the

: magneto stator. I figure if I can get hold of a "gear holder" (special

Just put the scoot in 5th gear and have someone else hold the brake.
The puller will make life easier.

: Rob
: --

Good Luck
MerfMan

[Russel Wardman]

> know folks that do it all the time). 2) Insert a piece of wood
> into the gears (main crank gear & clutch basket gear) and loosen.

Or put it in gear and use the back brake. If I'm doing engine work, I
loosen the flywheel bolt, clutch bolt and coutershaft nut (where applicable)
before removing the engine, so I can use the back brake this way.

Of course, now that I have air-tools it doesn't much matter.
--
** Russell Wardman ** 78 TT-500 (for sale) **
** 613-723-6500 ** 84 Turbo 750 KAWASAKI (for sale) **
** Ottawa Ont. Canada ** 90 KX 500 KAWASAKI **
** (rwar...@gandalf.ca) ** **

[W. Brett Segrest]

Hey I might be of some help. You could take your bike to a local Kaw shop and
get them to remove the flywheel for about 4 bucks or you can get a generic from
Dennis Kirk. I would highly recommend that you not use a jaw puller, instead use
a puller made for remove that type flywheel. Jaw pullers can damage other parts when
pulling the flywhell off.

-Brett

[Robert H. Yang]

In article <1993Feb12.1...@news.duc.auburn.edu>, seg...@eng.auburn.edu (W. Brett Segrest) writes:
> Hey I might be of some help. You could take your bike to a local Kaw shop and

This is indeed the correct answer, or at least the one I chose.
The rear brake trick did work for the main clutch bolt, but not for the
flywheel. I figure it'll cost about $75 to get the Kaw tools, or I
could just spend $25 at my fave Kaw shop and have them do the work.
As soon as the parts come in...

Ah, to ride the trails again... But on doctor's orders, the bike
is still for sale.

Rob
--
Rob Yang (Pittsburgh, PA, U.S.A) RY...@DRYCAS.CLUB.CC.CMU.EDU
Systems Engineer - AEG Automation Systems Corp.

'92 CBR600F2 (Hon) AMA 642916 DoD 0593 FSSNOC 1721 '87 KDX200 (For Sale)

[George Couyant]

In Article <1993Feb10.1...@den.mmc.com>, men...@den.mmc.com (Mark Engel) writes:

> on the flywheel puller. Whenever removing the clutch basket or
> flywheel, you have two options on the KDX. 1) Rotate the engine
> to bottom dead center and shove a CLEAN NYLON rope into the spark
> plug hole until the cavity is full (I've never done this, but
> know folks that do it all the time). 2) Insert a piece of wood
> into the gears (main crank gear & clutch basket gear) and loosen.
> The later one I do all the time, but make sure its hardwood......
>
> try it, it works
> Mark Engel

I've often tried a piece of hardwood jamming the primary gear to
the next gear (balancer, clutch,..water pump...NO NO JUST JOKING
about the water pump gear...), but it always gets eaten when you
wind on say 100 ft lb onto the primary nut. Instead, try jamming a
copper coin. It doesn't damage the gear faces, but it does make a
mess of the coin. It's also a much more positive lock.

Cheers
George C.

--
,--_|\ George Couyant email cou...@convex.com
/ \ Senior Systems Engineer Ph 61 3 823-6216
\_/--\*/ Convex Computer Pty Limited Fax 61 3 823-6254
'
86 TT600,90 KX500,88 KX250,85 CR250,86 CR500, oh yea, and the kids 92 PW50.