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Removing Decals?

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Jeff Bailey

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Jan 12, 2001, 12:41:44 AM1/12/01
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I want to know what everyone recomends for:
1. Removing my stock, chewed up graphics and goo.
2. Cleaning off all that glue goo.
3. How would you put on the new Graphics?
4. Are there any brands you'd recomend ? Factory Effex? One? So Cal? etc...
I want my YZ 400 to look as clean as Buttons factory ride was, so any
advice would be appreciated.
Jeff

NEATVA

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Jan 12, 2001, 9:11:00 AM1/12/01
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Here are a couple of tips for removing the old graphics, and applying new ones.

1) Use a hair dryer to heat up the graphics, This will soften the glue and
allow you to remove them easier. Be careful, I have burned my fingers trying to
pull them off.

2) This will leave a residue of goo on the plastic. You can get adhesive
remover at an auto parts store. Just make sure that it is safe for the plastic.
(try it on a small area first)

3) Make sure the area that you are putting the decals on is super clean. The
number one reason that decal and stickers fail is due to poor adhesion caused
by dirt, oil and grime.

4) Next clean with soap and water, then follow with a degreaser (one that is
safe for the plastic). Then wash again.

5) Just before applying the decal, wipe the area down with rubbing alcohol
(again test first) DO NOT TOUCH the plastic after this. The oils from your
hands can cause decal failure later.

6) Do not use a soapy water mixture to wet the surface to apply the decal. It
will leave a residue and cause early decal failure. If you really want to apply
the decal wet (This allows you to reposition the decal before it sticks to the
plastic) Stop by your local sign shop and ask to buy a small amount of
application fluid This stuff is specially made not to cause glue failures.

7) In order to get your decal exactly where you want it, place it on the
plastic without removing the backing and use a couple of small pieces of tape
to place the decal. Once you have it exactly where you want it. Put a piece of
tape along one edge. Make sure the tape is not going to harm the decal/sticker.
Use this piece of tape like a hinge. Lift the decal, peal the backing and work
the decal down to the surface. Use something that is hard enough to apply
pressure, but will not scratch the decal. For a smaller decal your fingers work
well. Once the decal is applied, remove the tape.

8) Do not wash for at least 24 hours. This will give the glue a a chance to
bond with the plastic

These are not foolproof instructions. But should make it much easier to apply
the decals. I am a sign maker and this system of application works well for me.


Hope this helps

Todd Davis
Todd Davis Designs

>on 1/12/01 Jeff ask....

MLR...@webtv.net

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Jan 12, 2001, 9:46:30 AM1/12/01
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thanks Todd Davis for some damn good advice.
I've seen this stuff in the catalogs called Sticker On and Sticker Off
for this purpose too, but I've never used it.

sandra...@my-deja.com

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Jan 12, 2001, 10:07:17 AM1/12/01
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make sure the graphix u get for the tank are the ones with holes
punched in em as opposed to the ones with slits


Sent via Deja.com
http://www.deja.com/

hy...@my-deja.com

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Jan 12, 2001, 10:07:05 AM1/12/01
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> 1) Use a hair dryer to heat up the graphics, This will soften the
glue and
> allow you to remove them easier. Be careful, I have burned my fingers
trying to
> pull them off.
>
> 2) This will leave a residue of goo on the plastic.

A pressure washer will pull the graphic and the adhesive off very
quickly, especially if they are stock graphics. No burned fingers, no
goo, and no cost for an adhesive remover. If you don't have one, a car
wash should be sufficient. Just get the angle of the spray directed at
a corner of the graphics.


> 6) Do not use a soapy water mixture to wet the surface to apply the
decal. It
> will leave a residue and cause early decal failure.

That's interesting. I used to tint windows and do vinyl graphic stuff
before I went to college....I used soapy water mixture for
everything..I still use it on my own graphics. It must be a coincidence
that I have never had a problem with any type of vinyl adhesive failing
before the vinyl did. Pure luck I guess.

If you really want to apply
> the decal wet (This allows you to reposition the decal before it
sticks to the
> plastic)

I would think this is the ONLY way you want to do it. Try putting a
background on a YZ426 side panel (on the muffler side). I would like to
see someone do it dry and have it come out looking halfway decent.
Apply the vinyl wet. Don't do it dry.

<snip>

Lift the decal, peal the backing and work
> the decal down to the surface. Use something that is hard enough to
apply
> pressure, but will not scratch the decal.

Hmm..a hard rubber squeegee like the kind used for tinting windows is
the way to go. It is easier if you apply a soapy water mixture to the
outside of the vinyl before you start to squeegee.

Steve

Mr. Mac

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Jan 12, 2001, 1:53:41 PM1/12/01
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These are all great tips. I would follow them exactly.

Another tip: Don't try to do all of these in one day. Make it a two or three
day process. This will allow for maximum drying time, etc.

I installed new tank graphics on an XR250R 4 months ago. No problems yet.

Joel "Mr. Mac" Chadwick
96 XR250R

fr...@erols.com

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Jan 13, 2001, 8:23:22 AM1/13/01
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A pressure washer will also destroy any gloss on the plastic if you
get to close. I have destroyed resin chairs finish with a washer, I
would never do this personally if you like the plastics anyway.
Chris

Mike W.

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Jan 13, 2001, 3:15:05 PM1/13/01
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On 12 Jan 2001 14:11:00 GMT, nea...@aol.com (NEATVA) wrote:

>
>2) This will leave a residue of goo on the plastic. You can get adhesive
>remover at an auto parts store. Just make sure that it is safe for the plastic.
>(try it on a small area first)

Just a heads up on this part. I was talking with a guy up in Winchendon MA
I met on a ride. He had an XR too and his tank was badly discolored. He
said it was due to an adhesive remover he applied to it. The kicker was
that he applied it to a part of the tank and nothing happened, so he did
the whole tank. What he said was that the discoloring took place over
quite some time. Watch out for that one.

Mike
Too slow to deserve good graphics

Mike W.
96 XR400
74 CZ250 Enduro
BRC, AMA, NETRA

francisco

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Jan 14, 2001, 6:34:07 AM1/14/01
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"takeoutspam...@hotmail.com" <fr...@erols.com> wrote in message
news:vkl06t8jopsqbjceh...@4ax.com...

> A pressure washer will also destroy any gloss on the plastic if you
> get to close. I have destroyed resin chairs finish with a washer, I
> would never do this personally if you like the plastics anyway

1) The plastics will be covered.
2) The rougher finish will aid bonding.
3) If you get the angle and distance right they come off quite cleanly.

Francisco


Chad Aaland

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Jan 14, 2001, 3:15:55 PM1/14/01
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1. Pull off the nasty stock graphics.
2. Spray on wd-40 and rub off nasty goo.
3. Spray windex on the shrouds/tank and apply graphics. Let sit in sun until
dry. (The windex makes it easier to position the graphics perfectly, it
works good)
4. Get the graphics that look the best to you. Ceet has some graphics with
gripping stuff on them if that's what you're looking for.
-Chad

smashed up 1990 cr125
recently acquired 1999 rm250
rippin' 1999 yz420f (for sale, loaded)
shiny 1984 z50


Chad Aaland

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Jan 14, 2001, 3:17:30 PM1/14/01
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And clean the wd40 off with alcohol before you do the windex
--
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