Gas Gas 200 EC, idle problem
Denis Crespe
I bought a brand new GG 200 EC last Friday and it does not idle well. I
strongly screwed the idle adjusting screw and I first got a correct idle at
neutral.
But as soon as I shift into first gear, the engine stalls. If I screw again
(I have to remove the spring for that), I got a decent idle into all gears.
Does anybody who owns a Gas Gas 200 EC has to do this? Will this solution
endure?
Thank you,
Denis
KTM Crasher
"Denis Crespe" <a...@a.com> wrote in message
news:big96t$2se$1...@news.tiscali.fr...
> Hi guys,
>
> I bought a brand new GG 200 EC last Friday and it does not idle well. I
> strongly screwed the idle adjusting screw and I first got a correct idle
at
> neutral.
> But as soon as I shift into first gear, the engine stalls. If I screw
again
> (I have to remove the spring for that), I got a decent idle into all
gears.
Back the idle adjustment screw back out to where it was when you first
started. Does the bike start easily with the choke on? If you leave the
choke on will the bike idle then? Could be a plugged pilot jet or improperly
set float.
>
> Does anybody who owns a Gas Gas 200 EC has to do this? Will this solution
> endure?
>
> Thank you,
> Denis
>
Ed M
Mike Baldwin
Has your dealer been asked to help with the problem?
Give KEVIN at BALDY'S a call at 517-663-5851
To see the awesome potential of the GasGas EC200 goto WWW.BALDYS.COM
and check out the Team BALDY section
Best Regards Always
Mike - BALDY'S
Wudsracer
Mike is right. Kevin and Mike have a really good shop in Michigan,
and have developed some really neat stuff for the Gas Gas bikes. (They
have ALWAYS helped me when I needed assistance for a customer.)
Dennis,
You have two problems:
1.jetting
2. abundant clutch drag.
1. you have screwed the throttle stop screw in far enough to get the
carb off the idle circuit by raising the needle.
The easy fix for this is the jetting kit developed by Les Tinius of
LT Racing. (same guy who just did the job on Opie's "Banana" RMX)
The problem is that the stock KX series jet needle is too rich, and
GasGas uses a pilot jet that is too lean, in order to compensate. At
$35 the kit is sort of expensive, unless you figure in all the time
you will save in getting it correct by yourself. Many of my customers
have told me that it was the best (most cost effective) performance
(power) modification that they have done to their GG bikes.
Les has different combinations (specific kits) for different models
and years. We stock the all.
The key ingredient of the LTR Jetting Kit is the much leaner needle,
with a larger pilot jet to match it. It also includes a main jet. If
you want another opinion, go to the message board of my web site and
ask other GasGas riders (who have spent the money) what they think of
the kits. The link is on the home page at the bottom of the menu on
the left. It is called "Talking Smack".
2. Your clutch is dragging. The dealer should have bled the clutch
during set-up.
Since the bleeder screw is on top of the clutch caliper (slave
cylinder), bleed it first like normal. (Pump the lever, hold it in,
loosen the bleeder fitting (under the little rubber cap), watch for
bubbles in the fluid coming out, tighten the bleeder, and let go of
the lever.
If after doing this, it still isn't working properly, reverse bleed
the clutch by pumping clean dot4 brake fluid into the caliper through
the bleeder and up through the hose to the master cylinder. ( I either
use Motul RBF 600, Spectro SX 600, or Motul 5.1 brake fluid. It is not
a Magura unit, and doesn't use the Magura's required mineral oil for
fluid. I usually use the 600, because it is also what I use in my
brakes, because of it's 600 F boiling temperature.)
Another thing to look for, is that the adjuster screw on the clutch
lever isn't screwed in too far (or that it is screwed in far enough).
This actually will increase clutch drag. Adjust it for free play at
the pivot, much like you would with a cable activated clutch, with
about 1/8" at the pivot.
I bleed the air off my clutch caliper at least every two months, and
exchange the fluid at least once per year. It makes a huge
difference.
A recent thread on the "Enduro" forum of "Talking Smack" concerned
starting in gear for hare scrambles, and how to reduce clutch drag to
make it start in gear easier. Several very good no-cost ideas were
presented.
If I can help you with information on your bike, or anything else,
just let me know.
You have a very fine bike. Congratulations!
Jim
Wudsracer
'99 Gas Gas EC 274
Team LAGNAF
SMACKOVER Racing
www.smackovermotorsports.com
"We Only Ride on Days That End in Y"
Denis Crespe
shipping cost would be too important.
How about replacing the pilot jet only ?
Thanks,
Denis
"Wudsracer" <dirt...@arkansas.net> a écrit dans le message de news:
n2iokvc4pcsk0d6r5...@4ax.com...
Wudsracer
I ship overseas by Global Priority Mail. It is approximately $17 to
$20 USD to Europe. Where do you live?
e-mail me. My "reply to" is correct.
Jim
PymerOne
neutral?
Grtz, P1
Denis Crespe
"PymerOne" <pyme...@planet.nl> a écrit dans le message de news:
bilt3i$nob$1...@reader10.wxs.nl...
PymerOne
> Well, I clutch, still idling, then I switch into 1st, and it stalls.
Dear Denis,
this sounds like the clutch does not release properly (it drags).
Have you tried to feel the difference between pushing your bike when in
neutral and when in 1st gear (engine off)?
Wudsracer's post is wright on the mark, poor carb settings make an engine
stall e-z-r.
The jetting needs to be looked into by a pro, judging by your posts you're
not comfortable with doing that yourself.
While your at the bikeshop, ask the techie if a different gearboxoil might
help....
Grtz, P1