Best sprocket ratio for XR 400?
Clay A. Ghann
My new XR400 came with sprockets of 15/45 (ratio of 3:1). Had my old
XR350 set up with 13/42 (ratio of 3.23:1). Want my first gear on the
400 to be a SLOOW crawling gear. Feels like it's geared pretty tall
right out of the box, so thinking of going to a 14 on the front.
Is it better to go down on the front sprocket or up on the back? Or
does it matter? I've heard changing 1 tooth on the front is about equal
to changing 3 teeth on the bcak. Is one any better than the other?
High Lord Gomer
Dredwolf dropped to a 14 on the front of his and still had plenty of
top end to stay in front of me on dirt roads at close to WFO. I had
even gone up a tooth on my front sprocket to get more top end and less
uncontrolled burst on the bottom.
As fas as changing sprockets...when you go smaller on the front, each
link must rotate more to make it around the sprocket. I don't know if
it makes a noticable diffference, but carried to the extreme, each
pivot would have to rotate 90 degrees on a 4 tooth sprocket. On the
back, if you go to a larger sprocket, you might have to slide the
wheel back to make sure the sprocket/chain don't rub the guide below
the swingarm.
I keep 3 sprockets for mine, 1 stock for MX, 1 1 tooth larger for tree
killing, and 1 1 tooth smaller for indoors. It's alot easier to
change the front sprocket and you don't have to shorten/add links to
the chain when swapping.
P.S. Leave it stock so you can walk off and leave Fredwolf in the open
areas of the Pelion Enduro! Oops, I guess you *have* to go now!
Gomer
95 YZ250 (Old Man)
95 XR100 (Young kid)
96 50SXR (Younger kid)
dred...@aol.com
Dropped to a 14 on the front myself, liked the results. Yes, dropping one
tooth in front is same as going up 3 teeth in rear. I intend to get a
couple of other rear sprockets and play with the ratios until I come up
with what works best for enduro, HS, etc. I feel that 14/45 is still a
touch too high, going to try a 47 rear next. Trying to arrive at the best
compromise can be a difficult process. Good luck!
Dredwolf
John W. Peeler aka Dredwolf
Two Harleys(garage chairs and clothes racks)
1996 KinqQuad (Rain!!??! I'm still going riding!!)
1997 XR400R (I could get hurt doing this..Isn't that great!?!)
Nitrous Oxide
dred...@aol.com wrote:
>
> Dropped to a 14 on the front myself, liked the results. Yes, dropping one
> tooth in front is same as going up 3 teeth in rear. I intend to get a
> couple of other rear sprockets and play with the ratios until I come up
> with what works best for enduro, HS, etc. I feel that 14/45 is still a
> touch too high, going to try a 47 rear next. Trying to arrive at the best
> compromise can be a difficult process. Good luck!
Here's a bit snipped from mail to someone else but may provide more fuel
for the pot. Some of the gearing stuff is for my interest for road work
and using Super Motard wheels:
15/45 gives a top speed of 73mph assuming max power at 7,100 RPM and
that is max revs for useful calcs.
Top speed at this RPM in 1st is 26 and the gaps thro the gears changing
at 7,100 in mph are 11,11,12 and 13 to give an idea of spacing at this
final drive ratio.
15/42 gives top speed of 78 and 1st max is 28
15/40 gives 82 and 29
If it'll rev more and has the power to do so it'll give on 15/45 -
1.03mph (2 dec places)/100rpm in top
15/42 - 1.01/100
15/40 - 1.15/100
15/40 I found too high for hill starts off road and had to slip the
clutch a wee bit. 15/42 gave a nice compromise and 15/45 seems fine for
most enduro nadgery stuff. The Yanks seem to run 15/47 so it's all down
to what suits, chain runs and the altered (if you can notice - I can't
but the sums say so) anti squat suspension effect of differing sprocket
sizes. Calcs are based on a rear tyre rolling circ of 85 inches but that
varies due to tyre growth/wear but is relatively marginal.
Now all ya gotta do is watch the speedo and divide by 1.6 to figure if
this is all porkies or your the speedo is optimistic :)
>
> Dredwolf
>
> John W. Peeler aka Dredwolf
> Two Harleys(garage chairs and clothes racks)
> 1996 KinqQuad (Rain!!??! I'm still going riding!!)
> 1997 XR400R (I could get hurt doing this..Isn't that great!?!)
--
* Gilera Saturno * Honda XR400R *
Posting email is a real domain and anti Spam tactic but will bounce.
Real reply Email is: jo...@motorcycle.co.uk
Nitrous Oxide
High Lord Gomer wrote:
>
> "Clay A. Ghann" <crick...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >My new XR400 came with sprockets of 15/45 (ratio of 3:1). Had my old
> >XR350 set up with 13/42 (ratio of 3.23:1). Want my first gear on the
> >400 to be a SLOOW crawling gear. Feels like it's geared pretty tall
> >right out of the box, so thinking of going to a 14 on the front.
>
> >Is it better to go down on the front sprocket or up on the back? Or
> >does it matter? I've heard changing 1 tooth on the front is about equal
> >to changing 3 teeth on the bcak. Is one any better than the other?
In answer to Clay's question, here's what John Robinson of Performance
Bikes in UK basicallys says (taken from his book):
Larger sprockets will be heavier and will have greater inertia. The
smallest practical size for a chain to revolve around is 13Teeth.
Changing the sprocket size even even if the sprocket is altered to keep
the same ratio alters the force in the chain and the angle of the chain
line. (anti-squat suspension). If the torque at the gearbox output shaft
is T then the force in the chain will be T/tg. Therefore the larger the
gearbox sprocket the smaller the force in the chain. The centrifugal
force - which tends to lift the chain off the sprocket - increases in
proportion to the radius of the sprocket and to its rotational speed
squared.
Whilst e.g. ratios of say 39/13, 42/14, 45/15 will all give exactly the
same gear ratio there will be other differences which will make one pair
more suitable than others depending on the use to which the machine is
put (whether the most important factor is clearance, chain strength,
unsprung weight or the effect of the chainline force on the suspension)
Ends quote.
Margiinal stufff this but important to understand effects I guess.
dred...@aol.com
In article <5dhvrj$2...@camel0.mindspring.com>,
mny...@colum.mindspring.com (High Lord Gomer) writes:
>As fas as changing sprockets...when you go smaller on the front, each
>link must rotate more to make it around the sprocket. I don't know if
>it makes a noticable diffference, but carried to the extreme, each
>pivot would have to rotate 90 degrees on a 4 tooth sprocket. On the
>back, if you go to a larger sprocket, you might have to slide the
>wheel back to make sure the sprocket/chain don't rub the guide below
>the swingarm.
Good point Gomer, I read somewhere that the above mentioned effect
accelerates chain wear. I am going to have to go up a tooth or two in the
rear, was still too high for the Long Cane HS, but I will plan on staying
with 14/45 for enduros with any long dirt road sections. Gomer, are you
going to the Sandlapper Enduro? I'm in the planning stages already...
Dredwolf
BTW, kinda like the "Fredwolf" :)
High Lord Gomer
dred...@aol.com wrote:
>>As fas as changing sprockets...when you go smaller on the front, each
>>link must rotate more to make it around the sprocket. I don't know if
>>it makes a noticable diffference, but carried to the extreme, each
>>pivot would have to rotate 90 degrees on a 4 tooth sprocket. On the
>>back, if you go to a larger sprocket, you might have to slide the
>>wheel back to make sure the sprocket/chain don't rub the guide below
>>the swingarm.
>Good point Gomer, I read somewhere that the above mentioned effect
>accelerates chain wear. I am going to have to go up a tooth or two in the
>rear, was still too high for the Long Cane HS, but I will plan on staying
>with 14/45 for enduros with any long dirt road sections. Gomer, are you
>going to the Sandlapper Enduro? I'm in the planning stages already...
>Dredwolf
>BTW, kinda like the "Fredwolf" :)
Yep, we're going. Danny will do the Saturday thing again, too. If we
rib him enough, Clay Ghann, AKA CricketMan, AKA SandSlinger might join
us.
Brett Miller - N7OLQ
I put a 14 in the front last summer and I have been quite happy
with it. Two considerations for changing the front and not the
rear: 1)weight, 2) PRICE!
--
Brett Miller - N7OLQ
Intel Corp.
American Fork, UT
brett_...@ccm.ut.intel.com
Clay A. Ghann <crick...@earthlink.net> wrote in article
<32FBFE...@earthlink.net>...
> My new XR400 came with sprockets of 15/45 (ratio of 3:1). Had my
old
> XR350 set up with 13/42 (ratio of 3.23:1). Want my first gear on
the
> 400 to be a SLOOW crawling gear. Feels like it's geared pretty
tall
> right out of the box, so thinking of going to a 14 on the front.
>
> Is it better to go down on the front sprocket or up on the back?
Or
> does it matter? I've heard changing 1 tooth on the front is
about equal
> to changing 3 teeth on the bcak. Is one any better than the
other?
>
> CAG
> crick...@earthlink.net
>
Bruce Arnold
> Is it better to go down on the front sprocket or up on the back? Or
> does it matter? I've heard changing 1 tooth on the front is about equal
> to changing 3 teeth on the bcak. Is one any better than the other?
Here's my 1/2 cents worth on the subject.
A 'smaller front/same rear' sprocket combo puts more stress on the chain
than a 'same front/larger rear' arrangement. Also, the chain has to make
a tighter bend on a smaller sprocket which is bound to increase wear. I
have no idea how much these two things effect chain/sprocket life. Also,
you can get smaller increments in the increase/reduction in the gear ratio
through the rear sprocket than you can with the front, since 1 tooth on the
rear is equal to about 1/3 tooth on the front.
On the other hand, it is easy to change your gearing with the front
sprocket, and in many cases you won't have to even break the chain. On my
XR-650, I can change from a 15T to a 14T in about 10 minutes. Simply
loosen the chain, remove and replace the sprocket, and re-adjust the chain.
This is really handy on a dual-sport bike. For example, I once rode over
200 miles on the road to get to Loretta Lynn's, and then changed my
sprocket for trail riding while my buddies took a smoke break. I tend to
be lazy, and don't have a lot of spare money, so this is the method that I
prefer.
--
Bruce Arnold Honda XR-650L 1993
Gruley, AL (Hunstville area) KTM 250-T/XC 1992
br...@hmi.com Honda XR-100 1992
High Lord Gomer
"Bruce Arnold" <br...@hmi.com> wrote:
>I tend to
>be lazy, and don't have a lot of spare money, so this is the method that I
>prefer.
This will come back to haunt you, oh large friend!
dred...@aol.com
In article <01bc1788$96324800$cbe7...@brucea.hmi.com>, "Bruce Arnold"
<br...@hmi.com> writes:
>A 'smaller front/same rear' sprocket combo puts more stress on the chain
>than a 'same front/larger rear' arrangement. Also, the chain has to
make
>a tighter bend on a smaller sprocket which is bound to increase wear. I
>have no idea how much these two things effect chain/sprocket life.
Also,
>you can get smaller increments in the increase/reduction in the gear
ratio
>through the rear sprocket than you can with the front, since 1 tooth on
the
>rear is equal to about 1/3 tooth on the front.
I have to agree with you, Bruce. On my 400, the drop to 14/45 gearing
accelerated wear to the point of being noticeable. Now, it may be that
the stock rear on the 400 is of low quality, and I know for certain that
the tensile strength for the stock DID chain is not as high as a Regina or
RK chain. As my budget allows, I plan on replacing the stock chain with
one of higher tensile strength,and geting a replacement 45 for the rear,
along with one or two more options for the rear. Sprocket Specialists
makes so many different options for the rear, you actually have to think
about it. Hot Slots, Titan Tough, Reversible, Quick-Change, etc. I
ordered a Titan Tough and an RK o-ring chain from a friend who is a
dealer, and plan to order either a 48 or 49 rear also. Be interesting to
see what has to be done to make the 49 tooth clear the chain guide.
Dredwolf
dred...@aol.com
In article <5dn2ue$i...@camel1.mindspring.com>,
mny...@colum.mindspring.com (High Lord Gomer) writes:
>Yep, we're going. Danny will do the Saturday thing again, too. If we
>rib him enough, Clay Ghann, AKA CricketMan, AKA SandSlinger might join
>us.
>
>Gomer
>95 YZ250 (Old Man)
>95 XR100 (Young kid)
>96 50SXR (Younger kid)
>
>
All Right!!!! Let's Do it!!! Better check with MX Tiller, according to
the flyer, there will be a bike inspection. Don't know what you may need
to do to the Yamahopper. As to motivation for Clay, how's this. If he
brings a camcorder, he will be almost guaranteed the $10,000 prize from
"America's Funniest Home Videos" by simply filming my antics/ tree
attacks. What other motivation is needed? Either that or put me up for
"Stupid Human Tricks" on Letterman. I am looking forward to March 2 ! (I
must be out of my mind...)
High Lord Gomer
dred...@aol.com wrote:
>All Right!!!! Let's Do it!!! Better check with MX Tiller
I think he's going to Mikeee's so they can blow up some WD40 cans and
rejet his YZ1100.
>according to
>the flyer, there will be a bike inspection. Don't know what you may need
>to do to the Yamahopper.
They advertised the same thing for Sumter, but I'm going to call and
verify that they only do that (advertise the inspection) for legal
reasons.
>As to motivation for Clay, how's this. If he
>brings a camcorder, he will be almost guaranteed the $10,000 prize from
>"America's Funniest Home Videos" by simply filming my antics/ tree
>attacks.
They'd have to have a 2 hour special to do it justice.
>What other motivation is needed? Either that or put me up for
>"Stupid Human Tricks" on Letterman.
On Letterman, you'd have to perform live...and I know you never the
two trees the same.
>I am looking forward to March 2 ! (I must be out of my mind...)
There was never any question about that!
>John W. Peeler aka Dredwolf
Come on, get it right....it's John W. Tree Peeler
Clay A. Ghann
High Lord Gomer wrote re: Sandlapper enduro:
> Yep, we're going. Danny will do the Saturday thing again, too. If we
> rib him enough, Clay Ghann, AKA CricketMan, AKA SandSlinger might join
> us.
>
Yes, I'm still here, just been busy taking Advil after last Sunday's
ride with Gomer in the "Sand Pits From Hell" (actually it was a
blast!). If the old muscles are workable by Mar 2 I MIGHT give it a
whirl.
On a serious note, ever since last Sun's ride my hands have been trying
to go numb on me occaisionally. In particular, the thumb and 1st 3
fingers on my left hand. I broke that wrist in high school (got slung
off the hood of Larry Mize's car - any golf fans?). Have had some
trouble with that wrist ever since, and the fact that I hadn't ridden
hard in 10 years, and gave it hell on Sunday surely didn't help. At
night I wake up several times with my left hand almost completely numb.
Goes away when I work my fingers, but has made me worry a tad. Perhaps
carpal tunnel syndrome??
CAG
Jan Nordlund
Hej!
I have some similar problems with numb hands after hard riding and
especially after riding on hard or frozen grounds.
The problems usually diappears after a week but it is probably due to what
in sweden i
Mark Klein
>Goes away when I work my fingers, but has made me worry a tad. Perhaps
>carpal tunnel syndrome??
Thats what it sounds like to me. You might try angling your handlebars
up some and see if it changes your symptoms. Or go to the doctor and
have him tell you to stay off those damn things!
MX Tuner
High Lord Gomer
spam...@nospam.org wrote:
>In article <330072...@earthlink.net> crick...@earthlink.net writes:
>>On a serious note, ever since last Sun's ride my hands have been trying
>>to go numb on me occaisionally. In particular, the thumb and 1st 3
>>fingers on my left hand. I broke that wrist in high school (got slung
>>off the hood of Larry Mize's car - any golf fans?). Have had some
>>trouble with that wrist ever since, and the fact that I hadn't ridden
>>hard in 10 years, and gave it hell on Sunday surely didn't help. At
>>night I wake up several times with my left hand almost completely numb.
>>Goes away when I work my fingers, but has made me worry a tad. Perhaps
>>carpal tunnel syndrome??
>It sounds like it. I find that lots of riding aggravates my beginning
>CTS. I'm still at the stage where my hands and fingers tingle rather
>then going totally numb. My left is worse and I've broken that wrist
>twice. Vitamin B helps (gonna go take some when I finish this post) as
>does correct posture & wrist position at the computer. If it gets
>really bad, there's physical therapy. Don't wait until its unbearable
>to try PT (especially if your medical ins covers it). My girlfriend did
>and wound up going through a year of pain that could have been avoided.
>I have had wrist problems flare up after riding other people's bikes with
>the levers in the wrong position for me. If the levers are rotated
>up too far I get wrist pains. Not riding for a while makes it worse
>when I do ride. The heavy clutch on my Ducati street bike
>doesn't help either.
Oh no...please don't tell me it was the 5 minutes on the Yama-vibrator
that did it. Besides, my levers are low to *make* me get up over the
bars. (and I thought you were joking about your hands before :( ) I
really need to watch my mouth, first that kid that broke both collar
bones, a few ribs, and a ruptured spleen and I'm asking him how much
he wants for his wrecked bike, and now Clay who, after he tells me his
hands are numb, gets the warm and sincere advice, "Maybe you should
let your wife do that for you."
From this day forward I shall preface all post-ride comments with,
"Stop me if you're seriously injured, but did you hear the one
about..."
Robert W Current
Can a XR400 be geared in anyway to make freeway cruising (60-70mph)
possable without excessive strain?
If so... What would the best ratio be?
And... Would a one sprocket switch (front OR rear) be possable with
minimal tools in a short amount of time to get a good tight trail riding
gear ratio?
acss...@acs.eku.edu
In article <5dr0ap$kcm$1...@nntp2.ba.best.com>, spam...@nospam.org writes:
> I have had wrist problems flare up after riding other people's bikes with
> the levers in the wrong position for me. If the levers are rotated
> up too far I get wrist pains. Not riding for a while makes it worse
> when I do ride. The heavy clutch on my Ducati street bike
> doesn't help either.
This is exactly what I found. I had my hands go completely numb after
riding 3 days in a row and they stayed numb off and on for 3 more
days. They went numb again the next weekend. I was begining to think I
would have to stop riding. Just for the hell of it, I rotated my bars
back just slightly and rotated my levers way under. They were probably
about level with the grips before. These two changes along with a
concious effort to grip as lightly as possible have made all the
difference. I was probably gripping too tightly before. I have ridden a
couple times since with only a slight tiring in the hands at the end of
the day. No real numbness. I have a 4 day weekend coming up and hope to
ride at least 3 of them. We'll see how that goes.
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
acss...@acs.eku.edu
In article <19970209051...@ladder01.news.aol.com>, dred...@aol.com writes:
> Dropped to a 14 on the front myself, liked the results. Yes, dropping one
> tooth in front is same as going up 3 teeth in rear. I intend to get a
> couple of other rear sprockets and play with the ratios until I come up
> with what works best for enduro, HS, etc. I feel that 14/45 is still a
> touch too high, going to try a 47 rear next. Trying to arrive at the best
> compromise can be a difficult process. Good luck!
>
>
> John W. Peeler aka Dredwolf
> 1996 KinqQuad (Rain!!??! I'm still going riding!!)
> 1997 XR400R (I could get hurt doing this..Isn't that great!?!)
I have a a friend that is geared 13/50. He toyed with the idea of going
back to 14 on the front and he may still try it yet. But he is fairly
satisfied with 13/50 for hill climbing and trail riding at 30-40
something mph. We don't attempt any speed records. The bike was very
hard to ride with the 15/45 stock gears. I don't really understand why
Honda chose to gear it that high.
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
Nitrous Oxide
acss...@acs.eku.edu wrote:
<snip>
> I have a a friend that is geared 13/50. He toyed with the idea of going
> back to 14 on the front and he may still try it yet. But he is fairly
> satisfied with 13/50 for hill climbing and trail riding at 30-40
> something mph. We don't attempt any speed records. The bike was very
> hard to ride with the 15/45 stock gears. I don't really understand why
> Honda chose to gear it that high.
Aussie comes with 15/40 and UK same as you. I guess it is all down to
what terrain you ride.
Out of interest from ealrier post:
15/45 gives a top speed of 73mph assuming max power at 7,100 RPM and
that is max revs for useful calcs.
Top speed at this RPM in 1st is 26 and the gaps thro the gears changing
at 7,100 in mph are 11,11,12 and 13 to give an idea of spacing at this
final drive ratio.
15/42 gives top speed of 78 and 1st max is 28
15/40 gives 82 and 29
If it'll rev more and has the power to do so it'll give on 15/45 -
1.03mph (2 dec places)/100rpm in top
15/42 - 1.01/100
15/40 - 1.15/100
>
> dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
Nitrous Oxide
Robert W Current wrote:
>
> Can a XR400 be geared in anyway to make freeway cruising (60-70mph)
> possable without excessive strain?
>
> If so... What would the best ratio be?
15/45 gives a top speed of 73mph assuming max power at 7,100 RPM and
that is max revs for useful calcs.
Top speed at this RPM in 1st is 26 and the gaps thro the gears changing
at 7,100 in mph are 11,11,12 and 13 to give an idea of spacing at this
final drive ratio.
15/42 gives top speed of 78 and 1st max is 28
15/40 gives 82 and 29
If it'll rev more and has the power to do so it'll give on 15/45 -
1.03mph (2 dec places)/100rpm in top
15/42 - 1.01/100
15/40 - 1.15/100
>
> And... Would a one sprocket switch (front OR rear) be possable with
> minimal tools in a short amount of time to get a good tight trail riding
> gear ratio?
--
Clay A. Ghann
High Lord Gomer wrote:
> Oh no...please don't tell me it was the 5 minutes on the Yama-vibrator
> that did it. Besides, my levers are low to *make* me get up over the
> bars. (and I thought you were joking about your hands before :( ) I
> really need to watch my mouth, first that kid that broke both collar
> bones, a few ribs, and a ruptured spleen and I'm asking him how much
> he wants for his wrecked bike, and now Clay who, after he tells me his
> hands are numb, gets the warm and sincere advice, "Maybe you should
> let your wife do that for you."
>
> From this day forward I shall preface all post-ride comments with,
> "Stop me if you're seriously injured, but did you hear the one
> about..."
>
> Gomer
> 95 YZ250 (Old Man)
> 95 XR100 (Young kid)
> 96 50SXR (Younger kid)
No worries, mate. I'm a big boy, have pretty thick skin - I can take a
joke.
Hands seem to be getting better now. Last night it wasn't as bad. Fine
all during the day when hands are moving, seems to bother me most at
night while sleeping.
And don't worry, it wasn't the Yammie - really couldn't feel anything on
while riding it - (the motor was running, wasn't it?).
CAG
PS: Were you really so tactless as to ask kid that broke both collar
bones, a few ribs, and had a ruptured spleen if he wanted to sell his
bike?
(PSS: how much did he want for it, and in what condition?)
Bruce Arnold
Someone at somewhere wrote:
> >Goes away when I work my fingers, but has made me worry a tad. Perhaps
> >carpal tunnel syndrome??
I don't get to go on many long trail rides, but when I do, I have this
problem - probably because my wrist and arms are out of shape. Here is
what I have found to help.
Setup your bars and controls so that your wrist are as straight as
possible. You especially need to make sure you wrist do not bend
backwards. Also, I have found that using one of those squeeze-type hand
exercisers has helped. I keep one on my desk at work so that I remember to
use it. Don't get one that too hard to squeeze. Also, try steering the
bike by pushing on the bars, rather than pulling on them. Pulling requires
a stronger grip. (Pushing has the added bonus of making you more likely to
ride with your head over the bars where it belongs.
Bruce (I am not a Doctor) Arnold
High Lord Gomer
"Clay A. Ghann" <crick...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> Oh no...please don't tell me it was the 5 minutes on the Yama-vibrator
>> that did it. Besides, my levers are low to *make* me get up over the
>> bars. (and I thought you were joking about your hands before :( ) I
>> really need to watch my mouth, first that kid that broke both collar
>> bones, a few ribs, and a ruptured spleen and I'm asking him how much
>> he wants for his wrecked bike, and now Clay who, after he tells me his
>> hands are numb, gets the warm and sincere advice, "Maybe you should
>> let your wife do that for you."
>>
>> From this day forward I shall preface all post-ride comments with,
>> "Stop me if you're seriously injured, but did you hear the one
>> about..."
>No worries, mate. I'm a big boy, have pretty thick skin - I can take a
>joke.
>Hands seem to be getting better now. Last night it wasn't as bad. Fine
>all during the day when hands are moving, seems to bother me most at
>night while sleeping.
>And don't worry, it wasn't the Yammie - really couldn't feel anything on
>while riding it - (the motor was running, wasn't it?).
You don't think that front wheel *magically* levitated, do you? :)
>PS: Were you really so tactless as to ask kid that broke both collar
>bones, a few ribs, and had a ruptured spleen if he wanted to sell his
>bike?
At the time we didn't know he was seriously hurt. I was just joking
with him to keep him from getting too upset. He is doing better and
will be riding again as soon as he can sneek out without his mother
catching him.
>(PSS: how much did he want for it, and in what condition?)
At the time he was giving it away, which was just over fair market
value. It was a WOPUS KDX200 with the rear shock from a Banshee.
altavoz
Subject:
Re: Best sprocket ratio for XR 400?
Date:
Sat, 08 Feb 1997 13:35:58 GMT
From:
mny...@colum.mindspring.com (High Lord Gomer)
Organization:
MindSpring Enterprises, Inc.
Newsgroups:
rec.motorcycles.dirt
References:
1
"Clay A. Ghann" <crick...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>My new XR400 came with sprockets of 15/45 (ratio of 3:1). Had my old
>XR350 set up with 13/42 (ratio of 3.23:1). Want my first gear on the
>400 to be a SLOOW crawling gear. Feels like it's geared pretty tall
>right out of the box, so thinking of going to a 14 on the front.
>Is it better to go down on the front sprocket or up on the back? Or
>does it matter? I've heard changing 1 tooth on the front is about equal
>to changing 3 teeth on the bcak. Is one any better than the other?
Dredwolf dropped to a 14 on the front of his and still had plenty of
top end to stay in front of me on dirt roads at close to WFO. I had
even gone up a tooth on my front sprocket to get more top end and less
uncontrolled burst on the bottom.
As fas as changing sprockets...when you go smaller on the front, each
link must rotate more to make it around the sprocket. I don't know if
it makes a noticable diffference, but carried to the extreme, each
pivot would have to rotate 90 degrees on a 4 tooth sprocket. On the
back, if you go to a larger sprocket, you might have to slide the
wheel back to make sure the sprocket/chain don't rub the guide below
the swingarm.
I keep 3 sprockets for mine, 1 stock for MX, 1 1 tooth larger for tree
killing, and 1 1 tooth smaller for indoors. It's alot easier to
change the front sprocket and you don't have to shorten/add links to
the chain when swapping.
P.S. Leave it stock so you can walk off and leave Fredwolf in the open
areas of the Pelion Enduro! Oops, I guess you *have* to go now!
Gomer
95 YZ250 (Old Man)
95 XR100 (Young kid)
96 50SXR (Younger kid)
altavoz: How about cogging . The smaller front sprok' will cause
higher pulsations in the tranny . Im not talking a doubling , but
it is significant . What i'd love to see is a 6 spd with a really
tall 6 th ! ( no , dont like the granny gear idea ) . Most bikes
cant pull max rpm in top gear w/ std gearing .
It's just for noise reduction . Yep , you're right , its
a lot easier changing front .
BTW i do electrics/electronics .
XL500S (old man) ...u could not sell me an air cooled 2 stroke !
______End of text from altavoz___________
acss...@acs.eku.edu
In article <3301D2...@nospam.org.uk>, Nitrous Oxide <jo...@nospam.org.uk> writes:
>> And... Would a one sprocket switch (front OR rear) be possable with
>> minimal tools in a short amount of time to get a good tight trail riding
>> gear ratio?
You would want to do a front only switch. The rear is too much of a pain
to be switching back and forth all the time. Plus a decent ratio switch
with the rear only might require a change in chain length whereas a
front change probably wouldn't. You might want to put a 48 or 50 on the
rear, then experiment with 13, 14, 15 on the front to see what you can
get away with without having to alter the chain. If you could run 13/48
and 15/48 on the same chain or 13/50 and 15/50 on the same chain you
would have considerably different ratios by only changing the front,
pluss the option of sticking in a 14 as a compromise gear.
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
acss...@acs.eku.edu
In article <32FBFE...@earthlink.net>, "Clay A. Ghann" <crick...@earthlink.net> writes:
> My new XR400 came with sprockets of 15/45 (ratio of 3:1). Had my old
> XR350 set up with 13/42 (ratio of 3.23:1). Want my first gear on the
> 400 to be a SLOOW crawling gear. Feels like it's geared pretty tall
> right out of the box, so thinking of going to a 14 on the front.
>
> Is it better to go down on the front sprocket or up on the back? Or
> does it matter? I've heard changing 1 tooth on the front is about equal
> to changing 3 teeth on the bcak. Is one any better than the other?
A friend went to 13/50 (3.84:1). That's the equivalent of about 11 teeth
(6 up front and 5 in back). He says it may geared just a little low...
for him. You might try about a 9 tooth change. For a 14 up front you are
talking about a 51 on the rear and for a 13 up front you are talking
about a 48 on the rear.
Want a 15 up front... 54 on the rear. Probably requires some guide mods
and a much longer chain.
When it comes to gearing you just have to experiment some to find what
works for you. Hope this gives you a good starting place.
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
dred...@aol.com
>P.S. Leave it stock so you can walk off and leave Fredwolf in the open
>areas of the Pelion Enduro! Oops, I guess you *have* to go now!
>
>
Don't need anyone to leave me. I can do it all by myself....
dred...@aol.com
>(Pushing has the added bonus of making you more likely to
>ride with your head over the bars where it belongs.
>
>
I never had a problem with keeping my head over my bars, it was keeping the rest of me from being over the bars that caused my troubles.
Dredwolf (Official RMD Helmet Tester)
acss...@acs.eku.edu
> dealer, and plan to order either a 48 or 49 rear also. Be interesting to
> see what has to be done to make the 49 tooth clear the chain guide.>
I beleive a friend put a 50 on a 400 without modification (other than
lengthening the chain to account for the larger sprocket) and I know I
have a 50 on my 600 which is very similar.
Dudley Cornman
Systems Programmer
Academic Computing Services - EKU
ACSS...@ACS.EKU.EDU
http://www.act.eku.edu/cornman/homepage.ssi
Adventurer
Spamhater.
I've have the same problem with my hands going numb while riding.
If feeling returns quickly after letting the grips go and repositioning
the arm, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I get the feeling back
almost instantly when I drop my hand to my side. I guess I relieve the
pressure on some nerve or get the blood to flow back into my hand after
having a "DEATH" grip on the handlebars. Might try adjusting the
handlebars forward or backward and holding your elbows up.
Good luck
Jimbo
djone...@aol.com
I have had the same problem since I dislocated my left shoulder hang gliding. I can ride about 45 minutes then numbness sets in. The first time it happened I didn't realize it was numb, took my hand off the grip for some reason, when I went to grab the bar again it was like my arm was somewhere else. I missed the grip completely. If it goes numb I have to let go and lower my arm and shake til feeling returns. Strangely enough if I ride long enough I don't experience the numbing any longer..go figure!
DJones
djone...@aol.com
Caribou1
Adventurer wrote:
>
> Spamhater.
> I've have the same problem with my hands going numb while riding.
> If feeling returns quickly after letting the grips go and repositioning
> the arm, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I get the feeling back
> almost instantly when I drop my hand to my side. I guess I relieve the
> pressure on some nerve or get the blood to flow back into my hand after
> having a "DEATH" grip on the handlebars. Might try adjusting the
> handlebars forward or backward and holding your elbows up.
> Good luck
> Jimbo
Try relaxing your grip when you can, and keep your elbows up more. Sometimes
changing grips can fix that too.
--
Caribou 93 Ariens ST-8 Blower "Frosty"
91 True Value Shovel "@!&*ing Snow!"
78 KTM 250 (AHRMA 626) "Katie"
95 KTM 300 MX/C "Sissy"
94 KTM 550 MX/C "Cupcake"
90 Intruder 1400 "Suzie"
Lynn 96 XR100 "Putt-Putt"