Need Suggestions on how to change tires
Steve
On 18 Apr 1997 00:40:00 GMT, "Chris Aycock"
<chris...@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>Okay, now I feel stupid. When I was a kid and rode dirt bikes, changing
>tires seemed to be fairly easy. Well, after deciding that I would get some
>practice in case of a flat by changing my own tire, I discovered that I
>could not pull the tire over the rim with 9.5" tire levers. I quit as I
>was afraid I would bend the rim. I am going to carry the wheel to the
>dealer this weekend and get him to change it. Any good sources or tips on
>changing tires?(especially on the trail)
>
Living in rock country repairing flats on the trail is a necessary
skill. Otherwise you spend the rest of the day being heckled by your
buddies. Likewise, you must be able to do it quickly, while being
made fun of and having sticks and rocks hurled your way.
Rule number one: stay away from any of that flat goop you put in the
tires. It doesn't work and it makes it impossible to patch.
While on the trail you don't have to remove the rim from the bike.
Turn off the gas and flop the bike over on its side. Remove the valve
stem and let all the air out of the tire. Loosen the rim lock until
the nut is most of the way out. Break the bead by stepping on the
side wall of the tire. While kneeling on the tire to keep the bead in
the center of the rim, begin levering the tire from the rim. Start
away from the rim lock and work your way around to it. You will have
to push in on the rimlock while working the tire out. I use an 8"
tire iron and a screwdriver on the trail. Use the tire iron to lever
and the screwdriver to hold the removed portion of the tire. Once the
one bead is completely out you can pull out the tube. Locate the
hole/pinch and use a patch kit with rubber glue as the directions
indicate. I generally set the thing on fire for 2 seconds then smack
the patch on. Works first time, everytime. You will get burned.
Stuff the tube back in, curse a bit while trying to get the valve stem
back in the hole. Reinstall the valve stem. I like to put a smidgen
of air in the tube so I have a better feel for where the tube is in
that all important last 3" of the bead install. Tuck the tire behind
the rim lock first and start from there. The important thing is to
keep the installed part of the tire pushed in toward the center of
the rim. This allows you the slack necessary to get the tire on.
Start levering the bead back on, using caution not to pinch the tube
when you lever the iron over. For about 2/3 of the way around you
will be able to get your finger in and verify where the tube is. If
you don't go all the way over (i.e. allow the point of the iron to
contact the rim) your chances of pinching are diminished. Take only
3" bites at a time. Check that the bead is not sitting on the tube at
any point. Use a CO2 cartridge to refill the tube. I like the
threaded ones better than the moto pump because they are quicker. A
rear tire will require two. I generally over inflate to seat the bead
and then bleed out the excess. Check the air pressure. A $6 0-20 psi
gauge weighs nothing and is worth the money. Retighten the rim lock.
I can do this in 6 minutes during a race with an adrenalin rush and 10
minutes while being verbally abused and pelted.
I have found the best non-Tech Tube solution is double tubing. For
flat protection nothing beats it. Take an old heavy duty tube (don't
cheap out $18 sounds like a lot for a tube until you are changing a
flat mid-race) and cut out the valve stem. Slice the tube along what
would be the line drawn by playing connect the dots with the spoke
nipples. Take your new $22 tube and fill it with air so it just holds
its shape. You don't want to start expanding the tube. Wrap the
sliced tube around the new tube and adjust it for the best fit. Get
some *good* stretchy kind PVC electrical tape ( 3M not K-mart ) and
spiral wrap the tube tube on. I use a pitch of about 2.5". Let the
air out of the tube and install as usual. I have been amazed at the
stuff you can hit. Mid race I hit a sharp rock so hard I heard the
rim jangle. For the next mile I kept waiting for the handling to
deteriorate, didn't happen.
Your hero and sensei
Steve Jamison
aged CRE250 pilot
Chris Aycock
MX Tuner
>I have found the best non-Tech Tube solution is double tubing.
>Your hero and sensei
>Steve Jamison
I'llbet you're even kinda handy around the house!
MX Tuner
David Wilson
I believe that Steve has it correct. You should note his important
comment "The important thing is to keep the installed part of the tire
pushed in toward the center of the rim". Also, water from your water
bottle can be used to lube the tire. IMHO This is usually what causes
people to have problems. For a second I thought that Steve was a "Old
Time Desert Rider" ,i.e., from the early '60's, but I guess not. In the
late 60', before foam tube, and other flat protection, Baja and
California Desert racers, especially top rated Triumph Baja racers used
"Double Tubes" in their race machines. God knows, that somthing that
weighs 350 Lbs, has 60 HP, goes over 100MPH on dirt, used the crummy
tires from the 60' and had only 4 inches of rear suspension travel
needed the added protection. However, the double tubing that I am
thinking of is to install two good tubes. What you do is use two brand
new, never inflated tubes. First, put on one side of the tire. Next,
fold the first tube so that it lays flat on the inside of the rim, then
install the second tube on top of the first tube. Of course, you need a
second valve stem hole. Then, finish the installation of the tire. Make
sure you mark the valve stems as to which tube is on the inside. Inflate
the Outside tube. When the first tube goes flat, you just inflate the
second tube. The second tube has the added protection of the first, now
flat tube. Hey, its all that could be done in the 60'.
David Wilson
Started riding when top Desert riders rode 650cc Triumphs.
Gml...@scvnet.com
Longer tire levers are helpful, not that you need more force, but that
the longer ones are more controllable and safer to use. The hooked end
is for removing tires, the straight end for installing them.
Lubricate the beads well. Dish soap/water is good, and some use WD-40
which seems to work well, not being slippary after it dries.
Make sure that the tire is completely deflated (valve out of stem) and
that the rim lock nuts are completely backed off (to the end of their
studs). You should be able to push the rim locks in the full length of
their studs.
At home, it helps to have a wheel stand to support the wheel by the
spokes. I use a 13 inch car wheel with a length of garden hose split
and put over the edge of the rim to protect the spokes. On the trail
you'll have to improvise.
Push the rim locks in, and press the bead of the tire into the valley in
the center of the rim (having the wheel on a stand makes this much
easier) Keep the bead in the center as you lever one portion of it over
the the rim. Start at the valve stem. Once you get it started, you can
work your way around till it's off.
If the bead is stubborn, check to make sure that it is as much in the
drop center as possible, that it is properly lubricated, and that both
rim locks are pushed in.
George
--
Note: Return address altered to deflect junk e-mail.
Delete the leading "G" in the address when replying.
Chris Aycock
Thaks for all of the great advice. I used all of the info on the repost
and things went *much* better. This would be a great FAQ topic if not
already included.
Mike Sleep
Chris Aycock wrote:
>
> Okay, now I feel stupid. When I was a kid and rode dirt bikes, changing
> tires seemed to be fairly easy. Well, after deciding that I would get some
> practice in case of a flat by changing my own tire, I discovered that I
> could not pull the tire over the rim with 9.5" tire levers. I quit as I
> was afraid I would bend the rim. I am going to carry the wheel to the
> dealer this weekend and get him to change it. Any good sources or tips on
> changing tires?(especially on the trail)
I've changed many tires myself, and realize now that it is not worth it.
Pay the guy the extra $8.00 so you don't end up popping the new tube and
spending $8.00 for another.
----------------------------------------------
Mike's XR Page
http://www.nidlink.com/~mikesleep/xrpage.html
mike...@nidlink.com
----------------------------------------------
MX Tuner
>I've changed many tires myself, and realize now that it is not worth it.
>Pay the guy the extra $8.00 so you don't end up popping the new tube and
>spending $8.00 for another.
I do 'em for guys for $10, all day long, if I could. Ten bucks for ten
minutes work. I pinch about one tube every five years.
MX Tuner
Steve
On Sat, 19 Apr 1997 20:35:50 -0700, Mike Sleep <mike...@netw.com>
wrote:
>
>Chris Aycock wrote:
>>
>> Okay, now I feel stupid. When I was a kid and rode dirt bikes, changing
>> tires seemed to be fairly easy. Well, after deciding that I would get some
>> practice in case of a flat by changing my own tire, I discovered that I
>> could not pull the tire over the rim with 9.5" tire levers. I quit as I
>> was afraid I would bend the rim. I am going to carry the wheel to the
>> dealer this weekend and get him to change it. Any good sources or tips on
>> changing tires?(especially on the trail)
>
>I've changed many tires myself, and realize now that it is not worth it.
>Pay the guy the extra $8.00 so you don't end up popping the new tube and
>spending $8.00 for another.
>----------------------------------------------
I should start charging $20 for all the tires I repair on the trail.
Learn how to do it. It's not a money thing, its a competence thing.
aged CRE250 rider
Steve
On Sun, 20 Apr 1997 18:29:59 GMT, mxt...@atl.mindspring.com (MX
Tuner) wrote:
>I do 'em for guys for $10, all day long
>
>MX Tuner
>
er, is there something we should know?
aged sunken CRE250 pilot
details at 11:00
\
Bryan Croteau
Steve wrote:
>
> On Sun, 20 Apr 1997 18:29:59 GMT, mxt...@atl.mindspring.com (MX
> Tuner) wrote:
>
> >I do 'em for guys for $10, all day long
> >
> >MX Tuner
> >
Is there any particular tool you use? in all seriousness, i've tried 3
times to put a front/rear tire on.. i always manage to slice a hole in
the tube.. hmm.. costs me 25-30$ to get them put on at a local shop..
--
-Bryan
92YZ 125 (Wheeeeeeee!)
MX Tuner
>>I do 'em for guys for $10, all day long
>>MX Tuner
>er, is there something we should know?
>aged sunken CRE250 pilot
And I'll do 'em for girls FREE!!
MX Tuner
MX Tuner
>Is there any particular tool you use?
Yup. Tire irons. Best invention since the Popiel Pocket Fisherman.
Those and proper lubrication.
Gomer, don't say it!!
MX Tuner
Steve
I'm not a big fan of lube because it stays on the tire when you are
done. On bigger bore bikes you may spin the tire regardless of rim
locks. Leave the tire to bake in the sun on the driveway for an hour
instead.
the aged one
Kenneth Murphy
MX Tuner (mxt...@atl.mindspring.com) wrote:
: I do 'em for guys for $10, all day long, if I could. Ten bucks for ten
: minutes work. I pinch about one tube every five years.
I <knock wood> haven't pinched a tube since I started leaving about
2-3 pounds of air in them when remounting the tire. Leave just enough
to have in inflated. I just air it up a couple of times to "settle"
the tube, then put the stem back in. YMMV.
: MX Tuner
--
O aka Ken Murphy (kmur...@ford.com) Owner/Operator: 94YZ250
<M>erfMan Supported by: Jen, Erin, Acerbis, DNA Racing, Boysen, Twin Air,
_/ \_ FMF, Sprocket Specialists, and Slavens Racing
Disclaimer: Don't even pretend you thought I spoke for the Ford Motor Company
Benjamin Cristi
It's EASIER than you think. First get a long (16" at least) tire iron in
addition to your short one. Skip this step, and your either really good,
or you'll be hating life.
1. deflate and loosen rim lock bolt
2. break the bead on both sides
3. place tire on suitable container (milk crate will do)
4. remove tire starting at valve stem. Force the rest of the tire
towards the center of the rim (where the spokes join the rim). This
provides more slack and is IMPORTANT to making this easy.
5. The rest (removal) is easy.
Installation
1. Don't install the tire from the sprocket side (unless you really want
to).
2. Begin with the rim tape (big rubber band) over the rim lock, with the
rim lock nut on loose.
3. Push the rim lock away from the rim and insert the tire.
4. Force the rest of the tire on with your hands. WD40 helps. I've heard
that soapy water works too. tire irons may be req'd on rear tires.
5. dust inner tube with talc(baby powder) to prevent snagging and
insert.
6. spray remaining edge of tire with wd40 or whatever.
7. force tire on rim. I begin opposite the valve stem. When you get to
the rim lock, push it away from the rim so the tire can fit under it.
When you've got about half the tire on, push it towards the center of
the rim, like before, to create more slack in the tire.
8. Don't poke the tube when using tire irons to get the last bit of tire
on.
Steve
On Tue, 22 Apr 1997 14:57:05 -0600, Eric Poulson <sl...@cc.usu.edu>
wrote:
>Speaking of tire changes and rim locks, what does everyone think of
>drilling holes in the sides of the rim and using short screws into the
>bead instead? It seems like it would be easier, better for ballance,
>plenty of spin resistance, and only minimal weakening of the rim.
>
>Eric Poulson sl...@cc.usu.edu
Sorry Eric but that's pretty silly.
Steve
Eric Poulson
High Lord Gomer
>>Is there any particular tool you use?
>Yup. Tire irons. Best invention since the Popiel Pocket Fisherman.
>Those and proper lubrication.
>
>Gomer, don't say it!!
It's no fun when you say that! Besides, the guy with the "e"
handwritten on the side of his Honda already beat me to it.
Gomer
95 YZ250 (Old man)
95 XR100 (Young kid)
96 50SXR (Younger kid)
80 CX500 (Project Toy)
MX Tuner
>Sorry Eric but that's pretty silly.
Yeah. If there were a problem with rim locks, I could see it. Rim
locks work too well.
MX Tuner
Pete
Actually, this was a common practice, 20 years ago.
William Poling
Another tip I just remembered last night when I put on a pair of new
Dunlops, cold tires are stiff and hard to work with. Always make sure the
tire is warm before you start. Also I've never tried WD-40 until last
night, it worked much better than soap and less mess. Does anybody know if
it has any adverse effects on the rubber?
Bill Poling
'94 KDX 200 (beginning reassembly!)
jeff dunham
Mike Sleep <mike...@netw.com> wrote in article <33598F...@netw.com>...
> Chris Aycock wrote:
> >
> > Okay, now I feel stupid. When I was a kid and rode dirt bikes,
changing
> > tires seemed to be fairly easy. Well, after deciding that I would get
some
> > practice in case of a flat by changing my own tire, I discovered that I
> > could not pull the tire over the rim with 9.5" tire levers. I quit as
I
> > was afraid I would bend the rim. I am going to carry the wheel to the
> > dealer this weekend and get him to change it. Any good sources or tips
on
> > changing tires?(especially on the trail)
>
I posted the following about six or seven months back. Hope this
helps.
Jeff
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------
I guess I qualify as an ISDE wannabe...
I can change a tire in five minutes and that includes removing and
replacing the wheel from the bike. I do have the rim lock moved
to near the valve stem to ease things a bit and the XR does have
quick release wheels (relatively speaking).
An outline of how I go about it is below. I think the most important
thing is to do things a step at a time and to do them "deliberately".
Tools
-----
- Craftsman 12mm ratcheting box end wrench.
- 24mm/26mm box end wrench with the 26mm end cut off (rear axle bolt)
- three motion pro tire irons (medium size)
- Fantastik or 409 Spray Cleaner.
- Soft Rubber Mat to lay the tire on.
- Mechanix work gloves.
- 10 gallon air tank
- Low pressure tire guage
Preparation of new tire.
------------------------
- Cover new tube and inside of tire with talcum powder. This makes
tube
slide around inside of tire a little (a good thing).
- Place new tube in tire and inflate with enough air so that it will
hold it's shape.
- My trusty assistant (my wife) will spray the bead down with 409
right before I am going to mount the tire. (ISDE rules state that
noone else can touch the bike except to fuel and check oil)
Dismount old tire.
------------------
- Remove wheel from bike and place on rubber mat. Place with disc
up to protect it from damage.
- Loosen rim lock with 12mm ratcheting box end wrench.
- Remove valve core.
- Spray down bead with 409.
- Kneel on tire opposite the rim lock and hold the bead down in rim
with your knees.
- Place one tire iron on each side of the rim lock and start
removing tire (the 409 makes it come off pretty easy).
- Stand the tire up and remove tube from old tire.
- Fold tire over the top of rim and use a tire iron plus
your entire body weight to "peel it off the rim".
Mount new tire
--------------
- Spray down bead on both sides with 409.
- Slip tire onto rim placing one bead over the rim lock and also
slip the valve core stem into it's mounting hole.
- Put "silly little bolt" on valve stem (hand tighten just enough to
keep it from slipping back into the rim).
- Use tire irons to mount "first half of tire" onto rim.
- Slide tire around so that valve stem is at 90 degrees to rim.
- Starting opposite the rim lock kneel on the tire and start working
it on with the tire irons. TO AVOID PINCHING THE TUBE DO NOT TAKE
THE TIRE IRONS PAST HORIZONTAL TO THE RIM WHEN MOUNTING THE TIRE.
- Keep your weight on your knees forcing the tire down into the rim
opposite the rim lock.
- When you get to slipping the tire on near the rim lock push on the
rim
lock bolt to ensure that the bead of the tire slips between the rim
lock and the rim itself.
- Air the tire up to fifty pounds to seat the bead of the tire.
- Set air pressure (typically 12-15 psi depending on conditions).
- Tighten rim lock and put tire back on bike.
jeff dunham
1995 XR300R
Glenn Mayor
"William Poling" <wpo...@earthlink.net> wrote:
Last weekend I heard of putting the tire in your vehicle with the
windows up for an hour or so to heat it up. Or put it in a truck bed
in the sun if you have a black bedliner.
Glenn
Charlie and Helen Franklin
Kenneth Murphy wrote:
>
> MX Tuner (mxt...@atl.mindspring.com) wrote:
>
> : I do 'em for guys for $10, all day long, if I could. Ten bucks for ten
> : minutes work. I pinch about one tube every five years.
>
> I <knock wood> haven't pinched a tube since I started leaving about
> 2-3 pounds of air in them when remounting the tire. Leave just enough
> to have in inflated. I just air it up a couple of times to "settle"
> the tube, then put the stem back in. YMMV.
>
I think this is the most crucial part of the process.
The other thing i do is put the last bead back on without useing tyre
irons, by just walking around the tyre, and useing my weight.
I haven't found a tyre I cant put on this way....yet.
it doen't mean there wont be one.
Charlie
Gordon Eastman
In article <01bc50ed$9a78f1e0$318d2293@ntpro>, "jeff dunham"
<jdu...@wv.mentorg.com> wrote:
[detailed 5 minute ISDE tire changing technique]
Sounds pretty much like my garage technique. But it takes me half an hour
and 2 beer...
--
Gordon Eastman eas...@nortel.ca
Nortel (613) 763-2464
nospam-caribou1
Add bandaids and earplugs for the neighborhood kids...
--
Caribou 78 KTM 250 (AHRMA 626) "Katie"
95 KTM 300 MX/C "Sissy"
94 KTM 550 MX/C "Cupcake"
90 Intruder 1400 "Suzie"
Lynn 96 XR100 "Putt-Putt"
Kenneth Murphy
Glenn Mayor (gma...@erols.com) wrote:
: "William Poling" <wpo...@earthlink.net> wrote:
: Last weekend I heard of putting the tire in your vehicle with the
: windows up for an hour or so to heat it up. Or put it in a truck bed
: in the sun if you have a black bedliner.
Just open the hood and lay it on top of the engine. Assuming the engine
is warm, this works better than anything else I've ever tried. Except
maybe the 10K BTU bullet heater I use to heat the garage on these cold
Colo nights. ;)
: Glenn
K hunwick
From: nj...@webspan.net (Steve):
>the aged one
Why do I get the feeling somebody just had a birthday?
the infirm and feeblminded one
acss...@acs.eku.edu
In article <5jik9o$1v...@eccws1.dearborn.ford.com>, kmur...@chip1.uucp (Kenneth Murphy) writes:
> MX Tuner (mxt...@atl.mindspring.com) wrote:
>
> : I do 'em for guys for $10, all day long, if I could. Ten bucks for ten
> : minutes work. I pinch about one tube every five years.
>
> I <knock wood> haven't pinched a tube since I started leaving about
> 2-3 pounds of air in them when remounting the tire. Leave just enough
> to have in inflated. I just air it up a couple of times to "settle"
> the tube, then put the stem back in. YMMV.
>
I have a couple manuals that show putting a lightly inflated tube in the
tire then installing the rim. Does anyone really do it that way?
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
Steve
On 25 Apr 97 07:28:33 -0500, acss...@acs.eku.edu wrote:
>I have a couple manuals that show putting a lightly inflated tube in the
>tire then installing the rim. Does anyone really do it that way?
>
>dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
>
I guess so, if you mean put one bead in, install the *lightly*
inflated tube, then put in the other bead.
Stevie wonderlust
MX Tuner
>I have a couple manuals that show putting a lightly inflated tube in the
>tire then installing the rim. Does anyone really do it that way?
Each and every time.
MX Tuner
acss...@acs.eku.edu
Maybe I'll have to try that next time. I have always put one side of the
tire on, inserted the tube, then the other side of the tire.
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
Kenneth Murphy
: I have a couple manuals that show putting a lightly inflated tube in the
: tire then installing the rim. Does anyone really do it that way?
I don't. I think that'd be a real hassle. Give it try though and see if
it works better. I just have my own way of doing things and I know which
ones work and I don't mess with them. :)
: dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
--
O aka Ken Murphy (kmur...@ford.com) Owner/Operator: 94YZ250
<M>erfMan Supported by: Jen, Erin, Acerbis, DNA Racing, Boyesen, Twin Air,
Kenneth Murphy
MX Tuner (mxt...@atl.mindspring.com) wrote:
: >I have a couple manuals that show putting a lightly inflated tube in the
: >tire then installing the rim. Does anyone really do it that way?
: Each and every time.
Maybe I just read this wrong, so:
With the tire completely off the rim, you install the puffy tube? Then
put the rim in?
I've never tried it this way. I'll install one side, insert and settle
the tube, then install the other side. Should I try it the "new" way?
: MX Tuner
acss...@acs.eku.edu
In article <3369243...@news.webspan.net>, nj...@webspan.net (Steve) writes:
> On 25 Apr 97 07:28:33 -0500, acss...@acs.eku.edu wrote:
>
>
>>I have a couple manuals that show putting a lightly inflated tube in the
>>tire then installing the rim. Does anyone really do it that way?
>>
>>
> I guess so, if you mean put one bead in, install the *lightly*
> inflated tube, then put in the other bead.
> Stevie wonderlust
>
No, I mean put the tube in the tire, then mount the first side on the
rim, then the second.
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
Steve
On 2 May 1997 14:23:12 GMT, kmur...@chip1.uucp (Kenneth Murphy)
wrote:
>
>MX Tuner (mxt...@atl.mindspring.com) wrote:
>
>
>: >I have a couple manuals that show putting a lightly inflated tube in the
>: >tire then installing the rim. Does anyone really do it that way?
>
>: Each and every time.
>
>Maybe I just read this wrong, so:
>
>With the tire completely off the rim, you install the puffy tube? Then
>put the rim in?
>
>I've never tried it this way. I'll install one side, insert and settle
>the tube, then install the other side. Should I try it the "new" way?
Sure, why not try to pinch the tube twice as much. : )
(kinda like putting two bullets in the gun.)
Steve
Glenn Mayor
mxt...@atl.mindspring.com (MX Tuner) wrote:
>
>
>>I have a couple manuals that show putting a lightly inflated tube in the
>>tire then installing the rim. Does anyone really do it that way?
>
>Each and every time.
>
>MX Tuner
>
>
I watched the guy from "Bump Sticks" (a local suspension and repair
shop) change some tires and he used hand cleaner for a lubricant to
get the tire on the rim. It was cleaner and worked better then
dishwashing soap and wd40 that I used.
Glenn
bowman
Kenneth Murphy wrote:
>
> With the tire completely off the rim, you install the puffy tube? Then
> put the rim in?
> I've never tried it this way. I'll install one side, insert and settle
> the tube, then install the other side. Should I try it the "new" way?
depending on the tire and wheel dimensions, it can be a pita to get
the stem through the hole and correctly aligned.
MX Tuner
>>>I have a couple manuals that show putting a lightly inflated tube in the
>>>tire then installing the rim. Does anyone really do it that way?
>>>
>> I guess so, if you mean put one bead in, install the *lightly*
>> inflated tube, then put in the other bead.
>>
>No, I mean put the tube in the tire, then mount the first side on the
>rim, then the second.
No way. Sorry, I thought you meant put one side of the tire on the rim
and then slightly inflate the tube before you put it in the tire. Like
Steve said, gives you twice the opportunity to pinch the tube.
MX Tuner
James Ray Crenshaw
Steve <nj...@webspan.net> wrote in article
<3369243...@news.webspan.net>...
> On 25 Apr 97 07:28:33 -0500, acss...@acs.eku.edu wrote:
>
>
> >I have a couple manuals that show putting a lightly inflated tube in the
> >tire then installing the rim. Does anyone really do it that way?
Well guys: When I went to work at the Yamaha shop in the spring of 1970
(cough, hack, choke, wheeze...) the owner wouldn't let me use tire tools to
put the tire back on the rim. Once it came off, the tire tools went back in
the box. Don't get caught disobeying. He made me stand on the tire/rim
combo & bonk it on with a HUGE rubber hammer. Yes it was aggravating, but
yes it could be done. Popeye arms if you had to do two back-to-back :-)
MickeyMotoMan;
Ray Crenshaw
Kenneth Murphy
MX Tuner (mxt...@atl.mindspring.com) wrote:
[snippety]
: No way. Sorry, I thought you meant put one side of the tire on the rim
: and then slightly inflate the tube before you put it in the tire. Like
: Steve said, gives you twice the opportunity to pinch the tube.
Whew! I thought I was missing something important. ;) FWIW, I do it a
little diff though. I put the tube in the 1/2 installed tire, *then*
air it up a couple of times to let it settle, then re-install the valve
stem leaving about 3-4 lbs of air in the tire.
Jason Blenkhorn
I've watched the experianced 'guns' use this method at tyre changing comps we
sometimes have at national enduros. They all used the method of placing the
litly inflated tube in the tyre before putting on the rim. The fastest time to
put the tyre & tube on the rim, then remove it, was 69 seconds! It was a 18"
rear (with rim lock), & a old (& manuable) knobby. Done correctly it is next to
imposible to pinch the tube, as it is protected by the tyre walls - ie the
levels never come in contact with the tube. I've tried it a few times - its
hard work and takes practice. If I'm in hurry, I seem to return to one bead on
, tube, then the other bead method.
Jase
In article <3369243...@news.webspan.net>, nj...@webspan.net says...
>
>
>On 25 Apr 97 07:28:33 -0500, acss...@acs.eku.edu wrote:
>
>
>>I have a couple manuals that show putting a lightly inflated tube in the
>>tire then installing the rim. Does anyone really do it that way?
>>
>>dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
>>
>I guess so, if you mean put one bead in, install the *lightly*
>inflated tube, then put in the other bead.
>Stevie wonderlust
>
acss...@acs.eku.edu
In article <5kkosv$45...@eccws1.dearborn.ford.com>, kmur...@chip1.uucp (Kenneth Murphy) writes:
> MX Tuner (mxt...@atl.mindspring.com) wrote:
>
> [snippety]
>
> : No way. Sorry, I thought you meant put one side of the tire on the rim
> : and then slightly inflate the tube before you put it in the tire. Like
> : Steve said, gives you twice the opportunity to pinch the tube.
That was my thought too. Why do they recommend that method in the
manuals?
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
sTeVe?
On 12 May 97 08:06:19 -0500, acss...@acs.eku.edu wrote:
>In article <5kkosv$45...@eccws1.dearborn.ford.com>, kmur...@chip1.uucp (Kenneth Murphy) writes:
>> MX Tuner (mxt...@atl.mindspring.com) wrote:
>>
>> [snippety]
>>
>> : No way. Sorry, I thought you meant put one side of the tire on the rim
>> : and then slightly inflate the tube before you put it in the tire. Like
>> : Steve said, gives you twice the opportunity to pinch the tube.
>
>That was my thought too. Why do they recommend that method in the
>manuals?
>
To sell more tubes!
Steve
Gary M
On 5 May 1997 13:55:43 GMT, kmur...@chip1.uucp (Kenneth Murphy)
wrote:
>MX Tuner (mxt...@atl.mindspring.com) wrote:
>
>[snippety]
>
>: No way. Sorry, I thought you meant put one side of the tire on the rim
>: and then slightly inflate the tube before you put it in the tire. Like
>: Steve said, gives you twice the opportunity to pinch the tube.
>
>Whew! I thought I was missing something important. ;) FWIW, I do it a
>little diff though. I put the tube in the 1/2 installed tire, *then*
>air it up a couple of times to let it settle, then re-install the valve
>stem leaving about 3-4 lbs of air in the tire.
>
>: MX Tuner
>
>
>--
> O aka Ken Murphy (kmur...@ford.com) Owner/Operator: 94YZ250
> <M>erfMan Supported by: Jen, Erin, Acerbis, DNA Racing, Boyesen, Twin Air,
> _/ \_ FMF, Sprocket Specialists, and Slavens Racing
>Disclaimer: Don't even pretend you thought I spoke for the Ford Motor Company
BTW, have either of you tried sliding the rim "entirely" inside the
tire then putting the tube in. I've found I can put the tube in
before or after, and getting the stem in place is always easy. Dual
rim locks on a heavy ply tire are a cinch and it's really easy to get
the tube positioned without wrinkles or stressed areas. The only
difficult part is getting the rim started into the tire, but a little
applied "technique" solves this.
Gary M
Las Vegas
SBroon
Tire tip:
I always work one bead of the tire on, then put a little air the tube to
give it shape before stuffing in the tube. If your tube has folds in it,
this can cause unexpected flats months later (trust me). This also helps
get the stem in the right place so you don't have to try and pull it
around later.
Steve B
TFS
sTeVe?
On Tue, 13 May 1997 02:34:36 GMT, gmo...@wizard.com (Gary M) wrote:
>BTW, have either of you tried sliding the rim "entirely" inside the
>tire then putting the tube in. I've found I can put the tube in
>before or after, and getting the stem in place is always easy. Dual
>rim locks on a heavy ply tire are a cinch and it's really easy to get
>the tube positioned without wrinkles or stressed areas. The only
>difficult part is getting the rim started into the tire, but a little
>applied "technique" solves this.
>
>Gary M
>Las Vegas
Er, Gary, can you enlighten me a little on this one? I have no clue
how you can get a tube into a tire that is completely mounted on the
rim.
Steve
acss...@acs.eku.edu
Me either, I have a hard enouigh time with it half mounted. If it can be
done it would sure prevent pinched rims though.
What about those $100 foam inserts? Are they junk or pretty good (for
trail riding)?
Has anyone tried having a tube foam filled? Should be way less than
$100.
I have wondered too about those fun noodles we use at the pool and lake?
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
Cltemp01
Changing tires:
I've been changing tires for years and have hated it everytime! Finally I
was at a friends moto shop and watch the mechanic do it. It was the best
thing I never thought of. He put bearing grease around the inside of the
tire to allow it to slip on to the rim with no effort. In addition it
allows the tire to seat properly when you put air in it and ride it. I
suggest you put half the air in it and chug around the yard once. It will
seat with no problem with the grease. Then put the rest of the air in it.
many people ask if the tire will slip with the grease.. Actually with the
tire/wheel locks, it doesn't. And the grease goes away after a few good
rides.
Good luck... Moto on
Chris The KTM LOVIN Man
Louisville, Kentucky (ROOST ON)
1990 KTM 350 EXC - Easy Rider Caddy Style
clte...@aol.com
Ghost Rider
Often wondered about that grease chris, good point about the tire-rim
lock, although i have never had a problem with the tire seating, just
have to over fill about 20 lbs, and let it back out.
Ghost Rider
Ghost Rider
96'KX 125
Chris Nayes
Cltemp01 wrote:
>
> Changing tires:
>
> I've been changing tires for years and have hated it everytime! Finally I
> was at a friends moto shop and watch the mechanic do it. It was the best
> thing I never thought of. He put bearing grease around the inside of the
> tire to allow it to slip on to the rim with no effort. In addition it
> allows the tire to seat properly when you put air in it and ride it. I
> suggest you put half the air in it and chug around the yard once. It will
> seat with no problem with the grease. Then put the rest of the air in it.
> many people ask if the tire will slip with the grease.. Actually with the
> tire/wheel locks, it doesn't. And the grease goes away after a few good
> rides.
I'm not sure if somebody else has already posted this solution but I use
dishwashing soap with just a little bit of water. This gets things real
slick
slimmy so the tire go right on. I just had to put a front and rear on
the
other day. Worked like a charm.
--
Chris Nayes Email: chr...@sgi.com
SGI - Seattle, WA Phone: (206)649-5614
sTeVe?
On 14 May 97 10:58:58 -0500, acss...@acs.eku.edu wrote:
>What about those $100 foam inserts? Are they junk or pretty good (for
>trail riding)?
>
>Has anyone tried having a tube foam filled? Should be way less than
>$100.
>
>I have wondered too about those fun noodles we use at the pool and lake?
>
>dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
The *only* way to get any life out of the Tech Tubes is to remove them
after each race. I used a front one once and got six trail rides out
of it but only because I left it in. When you reinsert the Tech Tube
you have to re-lube it. That lube is $10 for a 1 lb container I
think. IMHO double tubing is the way to go.
Steve
aged CRE275 pilot
MX Tuner
>BTW, have either of you tried sliding the rim "entirely" inside the
>tire then putting the tube in. I've found I can put the tube in
>before or after, and getting the stem in place is always easy. Dual
>rim locks on a heavy ply tire are a cinch and it's really easy to get
>the tube positioned without wrinkles or stressed areas. The only
>difficult part is getting the rim started into the tire, but a little
>applied "technique" solves this.
Hmmmmm. I've got a front and rear to mount (don't say it, Gomer)
sitting out in the garage. May have to give it a try.
MX Tuner
Ghost Rider
On Thu, 15 May 1997 11:39:34 GMT, mny...@mindspring.com (High Lord
Gomer) wrote:
>On Thu, 15 May 1997 02:44:55 GMT, mxt...@atl.mindspring.com (MX
>Tuner) wrote:
>
>>Hmmmmm. I've got a front and rear to mount (don't say it, Gomer)
>>sitting out in the garage. May have to give it a try.
>
>Sorry, but inquiring minds want to know...are you going to mount the
>front and back at the *same* time?
>
>Gomer
Gomer some times i wonder about you..............
Gary M
I forgot to mention that it's best to use a little lube on the inner
lip of the bead before sliding the rim into the tire. (Gomer
inspired, naturally.)
I usually start from a standing position, inserting the rim from the
right side, lock section first. The locks kinda serve as pivot or
anchor points if needed. A single tire iron at the bottom on the left
side opens the lower part of the tire and serves as a guide while
presure on the top of the rim pushes it down into the tire. A couple
of well placed attacks with another iron and it pops into place.
The whole procedure is sorta like the reverse of removing a tire by
peeling it off the rim with your hand. For mounting up heavy desert
tires with thick tubes this is the only way to go. I NEVER skin a
knuckle or pinch a tube anymore. Some implementers may have to
account for the brew factor, your results may vary.
Gary M
Las Vegas
MX Tuner
>>Sorry, but inquiring minds want to know...are you going to mount the
>>front and back at the *same* time?
Depends on how the wife feels the previous night.
>Gomer some times i wonder about you..............
>Ghost Rider
Heck, I wonder about him ALL the time!
MX Tuner
acss...@acs.eku.edu
In article <337a59e7...@news.webspan.net>, xspa...@webspan.net (sTeVe?) writes:
>
> The *only* way to get any life out of the Tech Tubes is to remove them
> after each race. I used a front one once and got six trail rides out
> of it but only because I left it in. When you reinsert the Tech Tube
> you have to re-lube it. That lube is $10 for a 1 lb container I
> think. IMHO double tubing is the way to go.
>
I'm still curious about foam filling a normal tube. Maybe I'll just try
it and see what happens. I need to check with the tractor place here in
town that does it and see if they can simulate the feel of 8-10 psi and
how huch that stuff weighs. It might be heavy... which has plusses and
minuses. How heavey is too heavy?
How do you seat a tire around one of the Tech Tubes?
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu
High Lord Gomer
>Hmmmmm. I've got a front and rear to mount (don't say it, Gomer)
>sitting out in the garage. May have to give it a try.
Sorry, but inquiring minds want to know...are you going to mount the
front and back at the *same* time?
Gomer
95 YZ250 (Old man)
95 XR100 (Young kid)
96 50SXR (Younger kid)
80 CX500 (Half my age and in much better shape)
78 KD175 (We can rebuild it)
78 KE175 (We can use some of these parts)
James Ray Crenshaw
> was at a friends moto shop and watch the mechanic do it. It was the best
> thing I never thought of. He put bearing grease around the inside of the
> tire to allow it to slip on to the rim with no effort. In addition it
Chris: Bearing grease (or anything petroleum based) is NOT the thing to
use to seat tires... though as often as dirt tires are changed it may not
matter. The grease is NG (the Japanese term meaning Not Good!) for tire and
tube rubber. It will deteriorate them. Also means your rim-locks better be
perfect. Spin-O-Rama time!
Ray in SC
Kenneth Murphy
Richard Wendlandt (wend...@primenet.com) wrote:
: xspa...@webspan.net (sTeVe?) wrote:
: >you have to re-lube it. That lube is $10 for a 1 lb container I
: >think. IMHO double tubing is the way to go.
: >Steve
: >aged CRE275 pilot
: O.K. here's a stupid question, whats double tubing?
Putting two tubes in one tire and airing each up 1/2 way.
Question for Steve: Do you do this? I've thought about it, but thought
the added weight would be a distraction. Also, since I've been religous
about running 14psi, and checking it just before race time, I've not had
a flat in 4 years. <knocking wood>
sTeVe?
On 16 May 1997 13:43:29 GMT, kmur...@chip1.uucp (Kenneth Murphy)
wrote:
>Richard Wendlandt (wend...@primenet.com) wrote:
>: xspa...@webspan.net (sTeVe?) wrote:
>
>: >you have to re-lube it. That lube is $10 for a 1 lb container I
>: >think. IMHO double tubing is the way to go.
>
>: >Steve
>: >aged CRE275 pilot
>
>: O.K. here's a stupid question, whats double tubing?
>
>Putting two tubes in one tire and airing each up 1/2 way.
>
>Question for Steve: Do you do this? I've thought about it, but thought
>the added weight would be a distraction. Also, since I've been religous
>about running 14psi, and checking it just before race time, I've not had
>a flat in 4 years. <knocking wood>
I split open "bad" quality tube and wrap the new tube in it. Then I
run 14 psi front and 12 psi rear. I can give details on the procedure
if anyone would like.
Steve
aged CRE275 pilot
Ghost Rider
On 16 May 1997 13:43:29 GMT, kmur...@chip1.uucp (Kenneth Murphy)
wrote:
>Richard Wendlandt (wend...@primenet.com) wrote:
>: xspa...@webspan.net (sTeVe?) wrote:
>
>: >you have to re-lube it. That lube is $10 for a 1 lb container I
>: >think. IMHO double tubing is the way to go.
>
>: >Steve
>: >aged CRE275 pilot
>
>: O.K. here's a stupid question, whats double tubing?
>
>Putting two tubes in one tire and airing each up 1/2 way.
>
>Question for Steve: Do you do this? I've thought about it, but thought
>the added weight would be a distraction. Also, since I've been religous
>about running 14psi, and checking it just before race time, I've not had
>a flat in 4 years. <knocking wood>
>
>
>
Additional stupid questions:
Where does the extra valve stem go in the dual tube tire? wouldn't
that make for a greater chance of puncture with the extra stem running
around in side?? Don' t tell me you drill another hole in the rim for
it???
How would you air the other tube up??
Gml...@scvnet.com
Ghost Rider wrote:
>
> On 16 May 1997 13:43:29 GMT, kmur...@chip1.uucp (Kenneth Murphy)
> wrote:
>
> >Richard Wendlandt (wend...@primenet.com) wrote:
> >: xspa...@webspan.net (sTeVe?) wrote:
<stuff about foam inserts, double tubing, etc. snipped.
Why not just run a regular tube and treat it with Slime? I've been
running this stuff for years and the only time I have to dismount a tire
is when I replace it.
A bottle to treat both tires of a dirt bike runs about $11 or so.
George Lyle
--
Note: Return address altered to deflect junk e-mail.
Delete the leading "G" in the address when replying.
Gml...@scvnet.com
I used to think this about petroleum-based lubes, but our local MC-only
tire shop uses....gasp....WD-40!
I questioned the fellow about this (a bit too strongly, in retrospect)
and he said that the solvent in WD-40 evaporates quickly and the bit of
oil in the stuff won't hurt the tire or tube.
Later, when confronted with a particularly tough bead, I tried it, and
found that what he said was entirely true. Another advantage is that it
won't corrode the rim like water-based lubes.
MX Tuner
>>Question for Steve: Do you do this? I've thought about it, but thought
>>the added weight would be a distraction. Also, since I've been religous
>>about running 14psi, and checking it just before race time, I've not had
>>a flat in 4 years. <knocking wood>
I use the Metzeler Heavy Duty tubes. I ordered them and when I picked
them up, the guy hands me a bag about as big as a full grocery bag.
I said "Whats this?".
He said "Your tubes".
I said " I only wanted one of each".
He said " Thats all you're getting".
Oh.
They are HUGE and weigh a ton. I run absolutely no more than 12 psi
front or rear in rocky conditions and down to 8 psi in mud. I've had
one flat in about the last five years. And that was before the HD
tubes.
Not enough traction at 14 psi.
MX Tuner
sTeVe?
On Fri, 16 May 1997 22:21:04 -0700, Gml...@scvnet.com wrote:
>Why not just run a regular tube and treat it with Slime? I've been
>running this stuff for years and the only time I have to dismount a tire
>is when I replace it.
>
>A bottle to treat both tires of a dirt bike runs about $11 or so.
>
>George Lyle
If you have ever tried a trail side repair on a tube with slime you
would know. If the hole is too big for the slime to fill, the tube is
garbage. You cannot patch it as the goop contaminates the patch.
Steve
aged CRE275 pilot
Kenneth Murphy
MX Tuner (mxt...@atl.mindspring.com) wrote:
: I use the Metzeler Heavy Duty tubes. I ordered them and when I picked
: them up, the guy hands me a bag about as big as a full grocery bag.
Re: Those damn Bridgestone tubes. Has anyone else had the "rattles" from
these? I've had 3 now. It sounds like the inside is de-laminating or
something. I had one actually spring 1000's of little leaks. It just kind
of oozed air. Weird.
: Not enough traction at 14 psi.
I may give it a try, but I'm satisfied at 14 psi. I'll sacrifice a little
traction to ensure a race finish.
: MX Tuner
Hack-Man
Chris Nayes wrote:
> I'm not sure if somebody else has already posted this solution but I use
> dishwashing soap with just a little bit of water.
C'mon guys. Are we forgetting about one of the main uses of that
wonderful, do-it-all lubricant - WD-40. That's what I use.
Scott
Bruce Arnold
snip... stuff about foam tire inserts.
>Also, since I've been religous
> about running 14psi, and checking it just before race time, I've not had
> a flat in 4 years. <knocking wood>
--
> O aka Ken Murphy (kmur...@ford.com) Owner/Operator:
94YZ250
I agree 100%. I ride in a lot of rocks and since I learned to keep 14-lbs
of air in my tires, I have not had a single flat. I rode a dual sport
event several years ago with a lot of sharp-edged rocks. My buddies ran
10-12 lbs, I ran 15. They both gots flats, but I didn't.
Norman P. Dunnagan
On 15 May 1997 21:40:48 GMT, "James Ray Crenshaw"
<tbi...@greenwood.net> wrote:
>
>
>> was at a friends moto shop and watch the mechanic do it. It was the best
>> thing I never thought of. He put bearing grease around the inside of the
>> tire to allow it to slip on to the rim with no effort. In addition it
>
> Chris: Bearing grease (or anything petroleum based) is NOT the thing to
>use to seat tires... though as often as dirt tires are changed it may not
>matter. The grease is NG (the Japanese term meaning Not Good!) for tire and
>tube rubber. It will deteriorate them. Also means your rim-locks better be
>perfect. Spin-O-Rama time!
>
>Ray in SC
Fascinating how Malcom Smith could change a tire in four
minutes.
Norm
'95 YZ125
www.intersurf.com/~norm/index.htm
Cltemp01
Deteriorate?
If any man or woman or beast would let the tires rot on their dirt bike,
they deserve to let bearing greese rot them.
Personally, I am lucky to have tires on for 4 months....
Kingndi
I have had excellent luck with my tires by doing the following:
New bike/rim? 2 wraps of duct tape around the inside the rim over the
spoke nipples. Protects the tube from "internal" punctures.
After removing old tire, clean off the rim. A lot of crap gets inside
tires.
Run under a sink or hose without getting water near the hub.
Buy Metzler heavy-duty tubes. They are awesome. And tough to beat.
And pretty expensive, but worth it.
Unpack the tube, and unfold it. With a 12mm deep socket, tighten the
nut at the base of the stem but do it gently. If it is not a hex nut, put
a
hex nut on it from the old tube. Some tubes come with circular nuts with
knurling on them. They can be hard to remove later--trash em. Take off
the
cap. I buy little 4 packs of metal valve caps with valve removal tools
built
in. I run at least one tire with the cap for valve removal (if need be) on
the
trail.
Now for the magic: spray the entire tube with Armorall. Rub it in with
your
hands. Yuck. JUST DO IT! Hang it on the handlebars and let it sit while
you pick up your new tire and spray the bead area of your tire without
getting
any on the knobs. Look for directional arrows and make sure they rotate
the right way on the bike. Not all tires have directional arrows. Spray
the inside
of the tire with Armorall also!
Rear Tires:
Important and SMART!: With Armorall on the tire bead, it is usually easy
to
get one side of the tire on the rim just by pressing or stepping on the
tire,
using the rim lock as the "first grip" or lever as mentioned in another
response
to this thread. The smart part is to push the tire on to the rim with the
spocket-side down on the ground (on a couple of towels!!). Your hands
will
thank you later, as you don't have to worry about cut up knuckles when
that
side of the tire is already mounted before you even pick up a tire iron!
Front Tires:
Start the tire on either side, but I like to pop in the side with the disk
last. It's handy to use the disk as a tire iron "lock" while working your
way around
the tire. Gently though. Don't scratch or bang too hard on the disk.
Both Tires:
Now that you've got one side of your tire on the rim, grab the slimy tube
and, if you'll notice, tubes come flattened exactly as they should be
installed
in your tire. Stand the tire up on the floor and locate the valve stem
hole
in the rim. Rotate the tire so that the hole is at 12 o'clock. Grab the
tube
near the valve, and shove the rubber inside the tire so that the valve is
pointed down and lined up with the hole in the rim. Push the valve into
the
hole from the inside.
It may help on some tires to pry up on the bead of the side of the tire
that is already mounted directly across from your fingers holding the
valve. This can
hurt a little, but will get even the stiffest tires to yield and allow you
to stick the
valve stem in the rim hole.
Put the nut on, and run it down a bunch, but don't tighten it up yet. More
magic:
push the tube in, actually, it's more like guide the tube in the tire so
it lays down flat in the tire. Now run your fingers over the edge of the
tube/rim area, pushing the tube down into the tire and away from the area
where the tire irons will contact
the rim. The slickness of the Armorall makes this kind of
placement/installation
possible. It also prevents the tube from being pinched, or puntured by
tire irons.
The surfaces are slippery enough to slide out from under the tire or tire
iron.
Make sure the tube rides all the way over the rim lock and away from it's
edge.
You are ready to mount the remaining side of the tire. Start by using
little
tire irons.(if you've got big and little ones--The big ones {18"!! from
NAPA
Auto Parts} are bitchen for the final grips, but save them for the major
work
at the end of the job) Start at the rim lock and tuck the tire in the rim
on both
sides of the rim lock. Work your way around, never inserting a tire iron
any
further into the tire than you have to. If you tucked the tube in right
you
probably won't have any problems, but it takes good strength to get the
last
section to pop in.
Now more Magic: For 18" to 21" tires, fill the tire to 40 lbs. Watch the
tire pop
onto the bead perfectly on both sides of the tire and some of the Armorall
ooze out! Unscrew the valve out of the valve stem and let all the air
rush out. Screw
the valve back in and fill to the desired pressure. I like 14 lbs. in CA.
and 12
lbs in IL, KY, and TN. unless in rocks. Add air in rocky terrain. Put the
cap
on and you're ready to rip. Smaller tires? Use discretion. I have no
experience
with smaller tires. 40 lbs may be too much for smaller tires. On some
TerraFlex (HUGE!) tires, I have inflated to 60 lbs. (Careful!) to get the
beads
seated.
Tighten the nuts on the valve stem and the rim lock.
Your tire is now more than tough. The tube is riding in a bath of
lubricant,
which actually lets everything run cooler for weeks of hard riding. Less
friction
is being generated. I often see some of the Armorall still on the tube
when
I change a worn-out tire. The tubes are definitely re-usable, but I have
better
peace of mind on the trail if I replace the tubes no less than once for 2
tires.
This seems like a lot of work, but it is economical and worth it in the
long run.
It's not a bad idea to "tune" your spokes--hell, you've got the wheel in
your
hands--tighten any loose ones.
I'd rather do a lot of preparation in my shop, rather than lose quality
riding
time by having to stop and make repairs on the trail so I take my time and
it
always pays off.
One more thing----you probably DON'T want to ride your bike on the street
to "test" the tires. Your tires are bound to be slippery on pavement, save
it
for the dirt. Have fun.
Regards,
Steve Ritchie
Gary M
On 14 May 1997 08:07:44 EDT, xspa...@webspan.net (sTeVe?) wrote:
>On Tue, 13 May 1997 02:34:36 GMT, gmo...@wizard.com (Gary M) wrote:
>
>
>>BTW, have either of you tried sliding the rim "entirely" inside the
>>tire then putting the tube in. I've found I can put the tube in
>>before or after, and getting the stem in place is always easy. Dual
>>rim locks on a heavy ply tire are a cinch and it's really easy to get
>>the tube positioned without wrinkles or stressed areas. The only
>>difficult part is getting the rim started into the tire, but a little
>>applied "technique" solves this.
>>
>>Gary M
>>Las Vegas
>
>Er, Gary, can you enlighten me a little on this one? I have no clue
>how you can get a tube into a tire that is completely mounted on the
>rim.
>
>Steve
>
Sorry if I not making myself clear. This one is a little tough
without some handwaving and a bit of sign language. For every one's
sake I'll try to clarify. Now to set the scene.
Imagine a fully mounted tire. With the wheel on the ground remove the
first side in the normal way, with the bead ending up on the outside
of the rim. Now flip the tire over and "repeat" the process. Both
beads are now on the "outside" of their respective rim. The rim is
fully inside the tire. Now standing the wheel causes the rim to drop
down into the tire, exposing tube, vavle stem, rim locks, etc, by
merely rotating the assembly and maybe bumping it on the ground to
settle the rim. Tire removal is by standing astride the wheel,
pushing the rubber over one side of the rim and downward while pulling
the top of the rim the opposite way, being careful of the rimlock
positions. The tire will simply peel off. I normally leave the tube
in for this.
Remounting the tire is basically just the opposite, with the only hard
part being to get the rim started into the tire. This is where some
"technique" come in. I always place the rim completely back inside
the tire and then install the tube and or rimlocks. Usually I leave
the locks in and the tube out. I worry about pinching the tube
otherwise. Starting the tube is easy with that two inch gap between
tire and rim. At this point you normally have the valve stem in place
with the rest of the tube hanging out. Working the tube all the way
around the rim seems hard at first. The beads are on the outside of
the rim and its hard to spread them far enough to insert the tube. The
answer is to just rotate the wheel about 20 degrees and settle the rim
again. One side of the tube will fold over the rim as the rim
subsides into the tire and the other part of the tube will be easy to
insert into the newly exposed area. Repeat to go all the way around.
After getting the tube in place I go around again so I can inspect the
tube for kinks and position the stem.
This technique isn't always the fastest but it works with stiff
sidewall tires, heavy tubes, multiple rim locks, guarantees there are
no kinks in the tube, and no skinned knuckles. I haven't elaborated
on the "technique" for starting the rim back into the tire but that's
for another day.
Any questions?
There will be a test!
Gary M
Las Vegas
Ghost Rider
Thanks gary, i will try it that way....
MX Tuner
>Thanks gary, i will try it that way....
Jeff,
You can delete all but the pertinent part of a post you are replying
to. This saves bandwidth and looks sooooo much nicer when you reply.
See how nice this looks instead of reposting all 87 lines to say
"Thanks, Gary".
Just a suggestion.
MX Tuner
sTeVe?
On Thu, 22 May 1997 23:06:57 GMT, rc...@city-online.com (Ghost Rider)
wrote:
>>on the "technique" for starting the rim back into the tire but that's
>>for another day.
>>
>>Any questions?
>>There will be a test!
>>
>>Gary M
>>Las Vegas
>
>
>Thanks gary, i will try it that way....
>
>
>Ghost Rider
>96'KX 125
Thanks Mr. Rider for a full repost, I missed the original. It sounds
wacky but I'll give it a twirl.
Steve
sTeVe?
On Fri, 23 May 1997 06:15:43 GMT, mxt...@atl.mindspring.com (MX
Tuner) wrote:
< sniveling snipped about saving bandwidth>
>Just a suggestion.
>
>MX Tuner
Mmmm. .. .. . . mayhaps. I wouldn't mind seeing enough of the post to
get the gist. My ISP is pretty good about the ng's. Occasionally I
miss one due to a heavy hand with the delete button or a missed post.
If there is enough info to spark my interest I can always Yahoo search
the Usenet posts for the originals.
Steve
>
MX Tuner
>Mmmm. .. .. . . mayhaps. I wouldn't mind seeing enough of the post to
>get the gist.
Exactly my point. Enough to get the "gist" would be fine. But we see
100% of every post being replied to. This COULD be trimmed without a
repost losing meaning.
MX Tuner
acss...@acs.eku.edu
In article <337D40...@scvnet.com>, Gml...@scvnet.com writes:
> Ghost Rider wrote:
>>
>> On 16 May 1997 13:43:29 GMT, kmur...@chip1.uucp (Kenneth Murphy)
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Richard Wendlandt (wend...@primenet.com) wrote:
>> >: xspa...@webspan.net (sTeVe?) wrote:
>
> <stuff about foam inserts, double tubing, etc. snipped.
>
> running this stuff for years and the only time I have to dismount a tire
> is when I replace it.
>
> A bottle to treat both tires of a dirt bike runs about $11 or so.
>
I think I stared this particular phase of this thread. What was probably
not obvious was my motive for asking about airless tires be it foam
filled, $100 inserts, etc. About the only time I ever get a flat is when
"I" change the tire. I pinch about 1 out of every 3 tubes. My motive was
to eliminate this problem, have a flat proof tire, and not have it feel
like a rock. Slime really doesn't get it done. I't rather wait until I
had a small leak and then add the slime or fix-a-flat or whatever than
to put it in to start with.
dsc - acss...@acs.eku.edu