Bark Busters?
CrashTestDummy
Jim assures me that I could really benefit from Bark Busters
(aluminum hand gaurds). I've been hesitant to install any, but I
realize he's probably right. They'll probably save me at least one or
two pair of handlebars each year, not to mention levers and perches.
In talking to Jim I discovered that he favors the Enduro
Engineering models. And I was kinda looking at the Maier Deluxe Woods
Pro models myself. I know we've had this discussion before, but what
do the rest of you use? My setup is 7/8" MSR Dominator (aluminum)
handlebars with crossbar. I don't remember what bend.
It's not that I don't trust Mr. Cook, I certainly do. And I value
his experience. I'm just curious is all. Thanks.
CrashTestDummy - '85 RM-250
f.j.bradf...@verizon.net
Dave_S...@msn.com
I think they both would work fine. I use the least expensive Acerbis
Rally guards that have the little optional wing attached on top.
Granted the ones with aluminum are stronger but I've never had a
problem or broke a lever using the all plastic guards, plus they cost
less and I'm a cheap-ass. I think the ones to stay away from are the
type the motocrosser use that attach only at one point usually with the
pivot screw on your levers. This style is kinda wimpy and will fold up
on your hand.
-Dave-
scrape
Moose - plain vanilla. Around $40.00. Another $12-15 or thereabouts
for the bar ends if you want to remove the guards without putting new
grips on all the time.
Doesn't matter what bend. They're one size fits all unless you cut
your bars down to like 22" like RiderX's GG.
If money was no object, I'd definately go with the Cycras.
oldfart
tree limbs and mother earth it will only benefit you. OF
Mike Baxter
<f.j.bradf...@verizon.net> wrote:
I use the Enduro Engineering/Moose aluminum hand guards myself.
Mike Baxter --------------- "All GasGas, All The Time"
2005 GasGas EC300, 2000 GasGas EC300, 1997 GasGas JXT270
optaylor
OP
"CrashTestDummy" <f.j.bradf...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:r1d992hlqe61fs504...@4ax.com...
roost4u
It's been my experience that it doesen't matter which ones you get. Your
going to have to bend the shit out of them to make the fit your bike.
--
Rick
2000KX250
Watch out for the mantis attack!!!
Wudsracer
These are the ones I spoke with you about on the phone.
http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDetail.do?prodFamilyId=9533&navTitle=Control&webCatId=12&webTypeId=69&navType=type
The least expensive handguards that i have found offered. Plus, they
are solid aluminum, to protect your fingers & levers/perches from
falls in the rocks. They look much like the EE barkbusters.
The least I could take for the EE barkbusters WAS $37.
**********************************************
>On Sun, 18 Jun 2006 02:09:02 GMT, CrashTestDummy <f.j.bradf...@verizon.net> wrote:
CrashTestDummy
<dirtbike...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>Fred,
> These are the ones I spoke with you about on the phone.
>http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDetail.do?prodFamilyId=9533&navTitle=Control&webCatId=12&webTypeId=69&navType=type
>
>The least expensive handguards that i have found offered. Plus, they
>are solid aluminum, to protect your fingers & levers/perches from
>falls in the rocks. They look much like the EE barkbusters.
Okay Jim, you've sold me on these. Do they require an adapter for
aluminum bars? The ad isn't really clear on that. Let me know the
total and I'll get payment on it's way sometime this week. Thanks :-)
Jeff Deeney
perches that are saved.
-Jeff Deeney- ©2005 DoD#0498 NCTR UTMA BRC COHVCO AMA
jldeeney@c om c ast d ot net '99 ATK 260LQ-Stink Wheels '94
XR650L-HellSickle
We don't stop riding because we get old, we get old because we stop riding.
Tiago Rocha
Jeff Deeney wrote:
> Don't leave home without them. They will pay for themselves in levers &
> perches that are saved.
plus, if you hit a tree, they will protect your fingers from being
chopped off by the lever.
Gilbert Bates
<f.j.bradf...@verizon.net> wrote:
There were these Summers Racing Components on my KTM when I bought it
used. They have a triple clamp mounting bracket. Look at the white
busters and you can see the bracket.
These are great if your bars are a little cluttered and you don't have
much room for a clamp on the bars. My pro-tapers are cut down 1.5" on
each side with a Pacemaker 3 computer in the middle, thumb switch for
the computer on the left, and the placement of both brake and clutch
master cylinders closer to center on the bars make things a little
cramped for anything else in there.
Yosef - '02 200exc & '04 MTD 38 (my quad)
These appear to be copies of the 909's I run.
I no longer run just plain aluminum due to an experience I had in Idaho
a number of years ago where I was cruising along in 3rd gear on a
side-hill and the cut-off root from an uphill stump impacted the
handguard shooting me off the side of the trail.
Upon examination of the cut-off root end, I figured if it'd been 1/2
higher, it would have cleared the hand guard and impacted my hand. The
next day I replaced my EE handguards with the 909's which appear
identical to the Tusk D-Flex handguards.
IM (not so) HO if you're going to have a plastic guard on the aluminum
bar it ought to be impact-resistant enough to take a hard hit and
deflect said hit.
I recommend the Tusk units as I paid ~$100 for my 909's and the Tusk
units appear identical.
-Wellen
H@somethingorother.com Tim H
news:1150722902.7...@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com...
Jeff Deeney wrote:
> Don't leave home without them. They will pay for themselves in levers &
> perches that are saved.
plus, if you hit a tree, they will protect your fingers from being
chopped off by the lever.
True story: Way back in the day, early 80's, maybe late 70's, one of our
crusty old northwest enduro guys, (who wasn't old that far back, but was
probably plenty crusty) smacked his barkbuster-less hand on a tree about 10
or 15 miles into a local enduro. At the end of the day, after finishing the
rest of a typically tough northwest enduro, he pulled his gloves off, taking
the end of his little finger with one of them. Basically said, "Wow, no
wonder my hand hurt."
Even he started using barkbusters after that.
Tim H
Barkbuster convert
IdaSpode
I wasn't there, but a friend (Terry Liebel) told me of a guy he was
riding with, no handguards, in a simple, slow speed fall-over against
some rock, ground the end of his little finger off, down to about
where the nail starts.
Ouch...
>Tim H
>Barkbuster convert
Can I hear a Hallelujah for Brother Timothy?
DJ
JayC
> (aluminum hand gaurds). I've been hesitant to install any, but I
> realize he's probably right. They'll probably save me at least one or
> two pair of handlebars each year, not to mention levers and perches.
>
> In talking to Jim I discovered that he favors the Enduro
> Engineering models. And I was kinda looking at the Maier Deluxe Woods
I won't even ride a bike before mounting Bark Busters on it. It's not
the hand protection as much as lever and control protection, though I
have punched a whole bunch of trees with my guards. Broken levers
simply don't happen with BB's installed. Some folks complain that
there is a danger of getting your hand caught in them while flying over
the bars, but I've never actually seen or heard of a case of this. In
any case, mount your barkbusters with a slight downward pitch - roughly
parallel with your levers.
Plastic guards are a waste of time - fine for MXers, but useless in the
woods. Enduro Engineering has the great inner bar mounts - definately
best for pro-tapers. With 7/8" bars, it probably doesn't matter too
much. I think I bought Maier barkbusters once - they are the cheapest
out there. If memory serves, the guards themselves are same as
everyone else, but the inner mounts stink. It is worth it to spend a
few bucks extra to get nice inner mounts, and bar-end mounts that have
a metal cam, as opposed to squishing a piece of rubber hose.
The guard itself has to be precision-bent to fit your individual
mounting case and bar bend. I use a vice and yank the guards into
shape. The guard bending part is a huge pain in the ass - plan on
spending a half day. If you get lucky, you'll have it in 5 minutes, if
not, who knows...?
Another couple of hints - drill/cut the end of your throttle tube
completely out (don't chop it off, just open the end all the way), then
sand smooth so there are no edges or burrs. Mount the throttle with at
least 1/8" of bar showing. The bark buster is flush with the end of
the bar, and you don't want your throttle tube getting hung up on it.
Cut the throttle grip 1/8" shorter than the tube to eliminate the
chance of the grip hitting the guard or bar. Glue and safety wire the
grip well - water will be driven under it since the end is cut off.
When I mount the throttle side guard, I put a fender washer that is
roughly the same diameter as my throttle tube between the bar and
guard. This helps block goo from getting forced under the throttle
tube when I drop the bike into mud.
Personally, I make my own bark busters out of a piece of 1" flat stock.
I can punch through a car door with one of those ;).
Jay
CrashTestDummy
I almost forgot to reply to this... thanks Jay. I bought some
ProGrip 791s and whacked the ends off. I removed my throttle tube and
cut the end cap off. I sanded it flat on the bench belt sander, and
then deburred the edges by hand. I gotta get some kinda of grip
adhesive tomorrow and then I'll install the grips, safety wire, and
remount the throttle assembly. I'll also see if I can find (or
modifiy) a fender washer as you suggest.
In the meantime, I placed an order this evening with an outfit
called "Cycle Buy" in Coburg, OR. for a pair of Enduro Engineering
hand gaurds (standard 7/8" silver)... $43.95 shipped.
Once those are installed it'll be time to fab the kickstand bracket
and maybe a skid plate. Then it'll pretty much be ready to load into
OP's trailer :-)
CrashTestDummy - '85 RM-250
f.j.bradf...@verizon.net