Best Oils for your bike???
E SHiFT 8
I use Yamalube 2R for my gas and Bel Ray Gear Saver for my tansmission.
How about you??? Please respond with your oppinions on what you think is
the best for your bike.
Thanks
tma...@aol.com
In article <19961216035...@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
Golden Spectro and Mobil1...
TMaxel
*** Merry Christmas to all my friends at R.M.D! ***
EMail -> MAXEL%MTC...@Navistar.com
97 KX 60
*** FS: (2) 95 LEM 50 CR3 ***
94 RM 250
Mike Patrick
I use Maxima Super M for pre-mix and Maxima MTL for the tranny. Nothing
shifts quite as well as this stuff after you ride 'very hard' with it a
time or two. It just starts working smoothly like butter.
Mikeee P
Todd Heemsbergen
esh...@aol.com (E SHiFT 8) wrote:
>I use Yamalube 2R for my gas and Bel Ray Gear Saver for my tansmission.
>How about you??? Please respond with your oppinions on what you think is
>the best for your bike.
>Thanks
I use Yamalube 2R and VP C12 112 Octane race gas in my tank and Golden
Spectro in my gear box.
Todd Heemsbergen
National Sales Manager / Moore O.P. Services
e-mail todds...@usa.pipeline.com
home page http://pwp.usa.pipeline.com/~toddsvette/todd.htm
Keith Ferguson
I have used motul for premix for 2 years and have found nothing better!
auto trans oil in the crank or 10/40 and change every couple rides I saw
team noleen using the auto oil
E SHiFT 8 <esh...@aol.com> wrote in article
<19961216035...@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
Mark Klein
Yamalube 2R at 32:1 and Mobil 1 10w40.
I used ATF in all my YZs to get them to shift.
MX Tuner
High Lord Gomer
mxt...@atl.mindspring.com (Mark Klein) wrote:
>I used ATF in all my YZs to get them to shift.
I tried that, it still didn't work. How many fluid changes before it
makes a difference?
Gomer
95 YZ250 (Old Man)
95 XR100 (Young kid)
96 50SXR (Younger kid)
tma...@aol.com
In article <594k7m$1d...@usenetw1.news.prodigy.com>, ZSS...@prodigy.com
(Mike Patrick) writes:
>Nothing
>shifts quite as well as this stuff after you ride 'very hard' with it a
>time or two. It just starts working smoothly like butter.
>
>
Uh, I thought you were supposed to put butter in after a ride or two???
Bruce Arnold
Ok, I know I am opening up the flood gates, but does anyone have
any suggestions about trans oil for a KTM? Has anyone found an
oil that will allow the clutch to disengage enough to start the
bike in gear, without causing it to slip when it is engaged?
Keeping the oil, and replacing the rest of the bike with a
(insert your favorite jap bike here) isn't an option at this
time :)
-------------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Arnold Honda XR-650L 1993
Gurley, AL (Huntsville area) KTM 250-T/XC 1992
br...@hmi.com Honda XR-100 1992 (wife's)
she...@olypen.com
In article <19961216035...@ladder01.news.aol.com>, esh...@aol.com
(E SHiFT 8) wrote:
> I use Yamalube 2R for my gas and Bel Ray Gear Saver for my tansmission.
> How about you??? Please respond with your oppinions on what you think is
> the best for your bike.
>
> Thanks
Yamalube is blended synthetic/natural, isn't it? Well, that would mean
that BelRay H1R or MC1 would be better because they are pure synthetic.
You can go to some really lean ratios with those pure synthetics, the
leaner the oil ratio, the more fuel/air you get with each piston pump, and
the more horsepower!
-->Reuben
Your Name
That's pretty interesting, because in addition to riding bikes, I fly
model RC airplanes and helicopters, and they say just the opposite,
natural (castor oil) is better because it can take higher temperatures
before breaking down and burning with the fuel (compared to synthetic
blends).
In article <sheffel-17...@annex-t1-4.olypen.com>,
she...@olypen.com says...
Steve Kociolek
> Well, that would mean that BelRay H1R or MC1 would be better because > they are pure synthetic.
Depends on what you are using them for.
> You can go to some really lean ratios with those pure synthetics, the
> leaner the oil ratio, the more fuel/air you get with each piston pump, and the more horsepower!
Well......
Yes, you can go leaner (safely) with synthetics, but it should
be noted that H1R recommends 32:1, and MC1+ recommends 55:1.
As far as leaner ratios giving more horsepower, I have to
disagree. I have never seen a dyno chart showing that, in fact
most dyno runs will show you the opposite. I have seen quite
a few micro-sprint cars (which use highly modified 250cc MX
engines) run as much as 16:1. You see more oil gives you a
better ring-seal, which in turn leads to better and more
consistant compression.
BTW -- I use Maxima Super-M in my gas at 32:1, and Maxima
MTL gear oil in the trans. I have in the past used other
mix oils that have worked as well, but have never used a better
gear lube.
Steve...
-->Reuben
Mike Patrick
Uh, I thought you were supposed to put butter in after a ride or two???
Uh uh... PARKAYYYYYYYY (I guess that would qualify as a sythetic huh?
!)MP
Caribou1
I've always used ATF (the red Dexron stuff). Have you tried a
non-synthetic 10W-30?
--
Caribou 93 Ariens ST-8 Blower "Frosty"
91 True Value Shovel "@!&*ing Snow!"
78 KTM 250 (AHRMA 626) "Katie"
95 KTM 300 MX/C "Sissy"
90 Intruder 1400 "Suzie"
Lynn 96 XR100 "Putt-Putt"
Mark Klein
> As far as leaner ratios giving more horsepower, I have to
> disagree. I have never seen a dyno chart showing that, in fact
> most dyno runs will show you the opposite. I have seen quite
> a few micro-sprint cars (which use highly modified 250cc MX
> engines) run as much as 16:1. You see more oil gives you a
> better ring-seal, which in turn leads to better and more
> consistant compression.
Gee its nice to see someone else say this. I agree 110%!!
MX Tuner
matt hennigar
Your...@somwhere.COM (Your Name) wrote:
I think castor is syntheic and narural is from a oil well out on the
ocean somewhere
then you'd be sayn the same thing!
lol
>
Matt Hennigar Atlantic CMRC#51
Canning, Nova Scotia, Canada
> 1992 CR 250 Rad valve & PS pipe/silencer It rips
> CR's rule
Please send email; Thanks
ROYTK
I've been using Blendzall Ultra and really like it. Mixes easily for a
bean oil blend. I havent had any guming problems (Yamahas have real
teeth) :)
Roytk
97 YZ 80 fast kid
92 KX 60 another fast kid
91 DS 80 (for sale)
90 RT 180 (I know - dumb old fart)
High Lord Gomer
Bruce Arnold <Br...@hmi.com> wrote:
>Ok, I know I am opening up the flood gates, but does anyone have
>any suggestions about trans oil for a KTM? Has anyone found an
>oil that will allow the clutch to disengage enough to start the
>bike in gear, without causing it to slip when it is engaged?
>Keeping the oil, and replacing the rest of the bike with a
>(insert your favorite jap bike here) isn't an option at this
>time :)
KTM Defense Mechanism #349, stop the jokes before they can start.
Damn, I hate that one!
High Lord Gomer
mxt...@atl.mindspring.com (Mark Klein) wrote:
please, Please, PLEASE don't start agreeing with this guy...he'll
become unbearable!
SSmyers102
Bruce Arnold <Br...@hmi.com> wrote:
>Ok, I know I am opening up the flood gates, but does anyone have
>any suggestions about trans oil for a KTM? Has anyone found an
>oil that will allow the clutch to disengage enough to start the
>bike in gear, without causing it to slip when it is engaged?
Bruce, it is really the clutch design that is the problem- the 97 clutches
have new materials and designs and are reported to allow in-gear starting-
I can't really complain about the clutch on my 92 250 KTM. Yes, I can't
start in gear (unless I am yamastarting down a hill) but the clutch is
holding up well- I told my mechanic friend that I was going to put a
clutch into my bike, as I I slip it mercilessly and have been for 3 years,
and he replied "New Clutch ?, what do you think, its a jap bike ?. Ride it
until it starts to slip, then I will tell you about the secret internal
adjustment to get a few more years out of it". I guess I am quite happy
not to have to buy clutches every year . I guess you get a long clutch
life or the ability to start in gear- The Duralube 90 weight probably
doesn't help any , Eh ?
So, maybe if you would like the start-in-gear capability see if the new
clutches fit your bike. The Basket may be different, but possibly not, I
read that the new clutch material was more honda-like. So, you may be able
to replace the plates and get what you need.
I know there have been a times that starting in gear would be a real
help- It is also difficult to find nuetral when the engine is running.
Scott Smyers '74 Penton 125 + 74 Penton 175 + 74 Penton 250
OHIO 82 Suzuki GS650 + 92 KTM 250T/XC +
93 Yamaha XT225 Serow + 74 Hodaka Wombat +
AHRMA 68 Suzuki TT125 Project Bike< :-o
#422
******** I've never met a bike I didn't like**********
Wish AOL had a spellchecker
Bruce Arnold
mxt...@atl.mindspring.com (Mark Klein) wrote:
>
>> As far as leaner ratios giving more horsepower, I have to
>> disagree. I have never seen a dyno chart showing that, in fact
>> most dyno runs will show you the opposite. I have seen quite
>> a few micro-sprint cars (which use highly modified 250cc MX
>> engines) run as much as 16:1. You see more oil gives you a
>> better ring-seal, which in turn leads to better and more
>> consistant compression.
>
>Gee its nice to see someone else say this. I agree 110%!!
>
>
About a year ago, Dirt Bike did an article where they dyno tested a bike for
power and then inspected it for wear while using different fuel/oil ratios.
They found no significant differences in power or wear between 16:1 and 50:1.
tma...@aol.com
In article <598rip$k...@camel5.mindspring.com>,
mny...@colum.mindspring.com (High Lord Gomer) writes:
>>> As far as leaner ratios giving more horsepower, I have to
>>> disagree. I have never seen a dyno chart showing that, in fact
>>> most dyno runs will show you the opposite. I have seen quite
>>> a few micro-sprint cars (which use highly modified 250cc MX
>>> engines) run as much as 16:1. You see more oil gives you a
>>> better ring-seal, which in turn leads to better and more
>>> consistant compression.
>
>>Gee its nice to see someone else say this. I agree 110%!!
>
>
Wait a minute guys... I understood from discussions out here that a
richer mixture would actually lean out your engine. In other words, a
mixture of 16:1 (thats real rich) would lean out your jetting because of
the thickness of the fuel.
I understand there would be more oil in the cyl, but I would think that
the engine would be running real lean too.
Steve Kociolek
tma...@aol.com wrote:
>
> Wait a minute guys... I understood from discussions out here that a
> richer mixture would actually lean out your engine. In other words, a
> mixture of 16:1 (thats real rich) would lean out your jetting because of
> the thickness of the fuel.
>
> I understand there would be more oil in the cyl, but I would think that
> the engine would be running real lean too.
>
> TMaxel
True, more oil in the mix will create a leaner gas:air ratio, and will
most likely(mandatory if you ride a KTM!) require some modest jetting
changes.
But that was not what the original post was about. I was merely stating
that the gentleman who said that less oil/more gas in the mix would
give you more power was incorrect.
>
> *** Merry Christmas to all my friends at R.M.D! ***
>
And to all a good bike!
STEVE...
tma...@aol.com
In article <596800$8...@camel1.mindspring.com>,
mny...@colum.mindspring.com (High Lord Gomer) writes:
>>I used ATF in all my YZs to get them to shift.
>
>I tried that, it still didn't work. How many fluid changes before it
>makes a difference?
>
>
You know, I was waiting for someone to say that they tried ATF in a Yamer
and it started shifting on its own...
TMaxel
*** Merry Christmas to all my friends at R.M.D! ***
EMail -> MAXEL%MTC...@Navistar.com
tma...@aol.com
In article <596kjg$t...@parlor.hiwaay.net>, Bruce Arnold <Br...@hmi.com>
writes:
> Has anyone found an
>oil that will allow the clutch to disengage enough to start the
>bike in gear, without causing it to slip when it is engaged?
Bruce,
I would try a 50/50 mix of Yamalube (due to the fact that Yams don't shift
well) and WD40. :-)
Hey, you asked for it.
Rob Shafer
Bruce Arnold wrote:
>
> Ok, I know I am opening up the flood gates, but does anyone have
> oil that will allow the clutch to disengage enough to start the
> bike in gear, without causing it to slip when it is engaged?
>
> (insert your favorite jap bike here) isn't an option at this
> time :)
I know some guys that use Automatic transmission oil in their gear
boxes...this seems a little scary to me. This type of oil was never
designed for the shear strength needed for gears. About the only gears
in a Auto transmission are the reverse planitary set.
It's great for high temp and clutches! My Husaberg has the same problem
your KTM has...
in fact, I've never shifted from 1st or 2nd gear, Heck any gear for
that matter, into neutral with the engine running except if I'm
rolling. Good thing neutral is a low performance gear! Maybe this is
why KTM bought husaberg...they were affraid some of that awesome clutch
technology would leak out to other manufacturers.:-)
(Extra room left for RMD constructive comments)
--
Rob
Robert K.
Bruce Arnold <Br...@hmi.com> wrote:
>Ok, I know I am opening up the flood gates, but does anyone have
>any suggestions about trans oil for a KTM? Has anyone found an
>oil that will allow the clutch to disengage enough to start the
>bike in gear, without causing it to slip when it is engaged?
>Keeping the oil, and replacing the rest of the bike with a
>(insert your favorite jap bike here) isn't an option at this
>time :)
I have had good results with Maxima MTL in my KTM.I can kick it over
fine in gear, when I have the strength!('91 500!) You might give it a
try.
Merry Christmas. Robert K.
Rob Shafer
Steve Kociolek wrote:
> As far as leaner ratios giving more horsepower, I have to
> disagree. I have never seen a dyno chart showing that, infact
> most dyno runs will show you the opposite. I have seen quite
> a few micro-sprint cars (which use highly modified 250cc MX
> engines) run as much as 16:1. You see more oil gives you a
> better ring-seal, which in turn leads to better and more
> consistant compression.
>
How true Steve, we are talking about an air fuel ratio and not an air
oil ratio when we jet our engines. The oil just goes along for the
ride. If you want to run more oil in your fuel/oil mixture you need to
jet accordingly so the air fuel ratio stays correct.
--
Rob
Gary Moman
tma...@aol.com wrote in article
<19961218183...@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> mny...@colum.mindspring.com (High Lord Gomer) writes:
>
<snip>
> >>> micro-sprint cars (which use highly modified 250cc MX
> >>> engines) run as much as 16:1. You see more oil gives you a
> >>> better ring-seal, which in turn leads to better and more
> >>> consistant compression.
> >
> >>Gee its nice to see someone else say this. I agree 110%!!
> >
>
> Wait a minute guys... I understood from discussions out here that a
> richer mixture would actually lean out your engine. In other words, a
> mixture of 16:1 (thats real rich) would lean out your jetting because of
> the thickness of the fuel.
>
> I understand there would be more oil in the cyl, but I would think that
> the engine would be running real lean too.
>
> TMaxel
>
Troy, I'm thinking the confusion here is about whether jetting is changed or
not when the oil mix ratio is changed. More oil around the rings probably
gives better sealing as stated, but the actual fuel/air ratio required may be
more OR less due to improper initial jetting. If your bike was running a
little fat, adding oil would both lower the fuel quantity and put more oil on
the cylinder wall for the approaching ring(s). Leaner fuel mix, richer oil
mix, both probably good in this one case. Life expectancy might then go up,
but only if the oil wasn't adhesive enough to stay in place in the first
place. Anyone ever noticed the difference between oils when rinsing the oil
residue out of your mix-rite with gas? 927 and the like certainly seem more
difficult to clean. I like to apply that thought to my cylinder wall. On
the other side, I'm not convinced that the fuel viscosity would change all
that much as oil was added. The dilution ratio changes considerably from the
oils standpoint but not that much from the fuels perspective, having a rather
small effect on required jet size. Probably one size or less for the whole
span by my math.
Any other thoughts out there guys??? I mean besides such ilk as the effects
of ring land clearances and ring lip round off versus lube polymer shear
strength on sealing.
Gary M
Las Vegas
acss...@acs.eku.edu
In article <596r26$k...@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>, Your...@somwhere.COM (Your Name) writes:
> That's pretty interesting, because in addition to riding bikes, I fly
> model RC airplanes and helicopters, and they say just the opposite,
> natural (castor oil) is better because it can take higher temperatures
> before breaking down and burning with the fuel (compared to synthetic
> blends).
This is completely opposite to everything I have heard/read/learned
about synthetic vs standard engine oils. My truck has about 100K miles
on it. I use Mobil 1 synthetic and change the oil and filter about every
10K-13K miles. The engine never uses more than 1 quart of oil in that
interval and usually it's about 1/2 quart. Using 1 quart or less of oil
in 10K-13K miles is not bad at all... in any truck new or used. Some of
these oil change intervals included some pretty heavy towing (for a
small truck). I am a beleiver in synthetic oils for autos, boats and
trucks. It seems to be working fine in my '86 XR200R as well. My '81
XR250R seems to be burning it though (it's only been in for 2 days of
riding) and I'm going to try regular oil for one change to see if it
makes any difference. I have heard that cycles will sometimes burn
synthetic oils at a heavy rate. I don't know if this is true or not.
Dudley Cornman
Systems Programmer
Academic Computing Services - EKU
ACSS...@ACS.EKU.EDU
http://www.act.eku.edu/cornman/homepage.ssi
Caribou1
Steve Kociolek wrote:
>
> tma...@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Wait a minute guys... I understood from discussions out here that a
> > richer mixture would actually lean out your engine. In other words, a
> > mixture of 16:1 (thats real rich) would lean out your jetting because of
> > the thickness of the fuel.
> >
> > I understand there would be more oil in the cyl, but I would think that
> > the engine would be running real lean too.
> >
> > TMaxel
>
> most likely(mandatory if you ride a KTM!) require some modest jetting
> changes.
>
> But that was not what the original post was about. I was merely stating
> that the gentleman who said that less oil/more gas in the mix would
> give you more power was incorrect.
>
> >
> >
>
> STEVE...
I found that a 50:1 oil to gas mix straightened my jetting right out. ;)
Bruce Arnold
mny...@colum.mindspring.com (High Lord Gomer) wrote:
>Bruce Arnold <Br...@hmi.com> wrote:
>
>>Ok, I know I am opening up the flood gates, but does anyone have
>>any suggestions about trans oil for a KTM? Has anyone found an
>>oil that will allow the clutch to disengage enough to start the
>>bike in gear, without causing it to slip when it is engaged?
>
>>Keeping the oil, and replacing the rest of the bike with a
>>(insert your favorite jap bike here) isn't an option at this
>>time :)
>
>Damn, I hate that one!
>
>Gomer
I started to reply that it just shows that I am a quick learner, but then I
wouldn't have bought the KTM would I? KTM Defense Mechanism #714, make the
joke yourself before anyone else has a chance.
Bruce
Bruce Arnold
Rob Shafer <rsh...@concentric.net> wrote:
>Bruce Arnold wrote:
>>
>> Ok, I know I am opening up the flood gates, but does anyone have
>> any suggestions about trans oil for a KTM? Has anyone found an
>> oil that will allow the clutch to disengage enough to start the
>> bike in gear, without causing it to slip when it is engaged?
>>
>> Keeping the oil, and replacing the rest of the bike with a
>> (insert your favorite jap bike here) isn't an option at this
>> time :)
>
(snip)
>My Husaberg has the same problem your KTM has...
>in fact, I've never shifted from 1st or 2nd gear, Heck any gear for
>that matter, into neutral with the engine running except if I'm
>rolling. Good thing neutral is a low performance gear!
Actually that would be an improvement for my XR-L. Evidently, some bozo
decided that street bike engines should have a neutral that is real easy to
find. As a result, the bike almost always goes into neutral when making a
panic downshift to 1st on a big hill.
>Maybe this is
>why KTM bought husaberg...they were affraid some of that awesome clutch
>technology would leak out to other manufacturers.:-)
>
>(Extra room left for RMD constructive comments)
That, and they probably wanted to enhance their reputation for being so
reliable :) Actually, I think that someone finally made a more awsome bike
than a KTM, so they solved the problem by buying them.
Bruce
Mark Klein
>Any other thoughts out there guys??? I mean besides such ilk as the effects
>of ring land clearances and ring lip round off versus lube polymer shear
>strength on sealing.
I can't get any clearer than what you just said. Pretty much sums it
up in my book.
MX Tuner
Mark Klein
>trucks. It seems to be working fine in my '86 XR200R as well. My '81
>XR250R seems to be burning it though (it's only been in for 2 days of
>riding) and I'm going to try regular oil for one change to see if it
>makes any difference. I have heard that cycles will sometimes burn
>synthetic oils at a heavy rate. I don't know if this is true or not.
Sometimes in a car which is burning oil, we will put in a higher
weight oil to slow the consumption. It can make a big difference. If
you're using some of the thinner weight Mobil 1, that may be why.
MX Tuner
Mark Klein
>Does this guy know this news group or what?! 8-)
I think hes been here before....
>I know some guys that use Automatic transmission oil in their gear
>boxes...this seems a little scary to me. This type of oil was never
>designed for the shear strength needed for gears. About the only gears
>in a Auto transmission are the reverse planitary set.
You don't think the planetary gear set pulling a full sized auto has
at least as much shear as a motorcycle gear set? Think again.
>(Extra room left for RMD constructive comments)
Thank you.
MX Tuner
Caribou1
Gary Moman wrote:
>
> Troy, I'm thinking the confusion here is about whether jetting is changed or
> not when the oil mix ratio is changed. More oil around the rings probably
> gives better sealing as stated, but the actual fuel/air ratio required may be
> more OR less due to improper initial jetting. If your bike was running a
> little fat, adding oil would both lower the fuel quantity and put more oil on
> the cylinder wall for the approaching ring(s). Leaner fuel mix, richer oil
> mix, both probably good in this one case. Life expectancy might then go up,
> but only if the oil wasn't adhesive enough to stay in place in the first
> place. Anyone ever noticed the difference between oils when rinsing the oil
> residue out of your mix-rite with gas? 927 and the like certainly seem more
> difficult to clean. I like to apply that thought to my cylinder wall. On
> the other side, I'm not convinced that the fuel viscosity would change all
> that much as oil was added. The dilution ratio changes considerably from the
> oils standpoint but not that much from the fuels perspective, having a rather
> small effect on required jet size. Probably one size or less for the whole
> span by my math.
>
> of ring land clearances and ring lip round off versus lube polymer shear
> strength on sealing.
>
> Las Vegas
I agree with you Gary, for the following reasons:
1) The liquid mixture density does not change substantially by adding more oil,
therfore there is no substantial change to the liquid flow through the jets.
2) Oil burns. Just like gasoline. It has a lower rate of energy conversion
which technically reduces the potential power output of the motor if more oil is
present in the mixture. Its density is close to that of gasoline too.
3) Inside the cylinder, the mixture is in a vapor state (except KTM's) and as
such acts more like a gas than a liquid and will do little in terms of sealing.
4) During the period of the compression stroke, (1/60 second @ 3600 RPM) little
of the charge will have sufficient time at the pressures involved to have any
substantial leakage past the rings. Flowing gases like flowing liquids generate
turbulance which limits the leakage rate as well.
5) If any power increase can be measured, it is more likely due to reduced
friction between the piston and cylider wall.
6) Because Gary lives in Vegas where its warm and if I'm nice maybe he'll send me
some warm weather so I can ride.
Rob Shafer
Mark Klein wrote:
>
> >Does this guy know this news group or what?! 8-)
> I think hes been here before....
> >I know some guys that use Automatic transmission oil in their gear
> >boxes...this seems a little scary to me. This type of oil was never
> >designed for the shear strength needed for gears. About the only gears
> >in a Auto transmission are the reverse planitary set.
> You don't think the planetary gear set pulling a full sized auto has
> at least as much shear as a motorcycle gear set? Think again.
>
No, you can't make me think if I don't want too! :-) I would dare say
that a car with an automatic trans driven around in reverse for..oh say,
100,000 miles might have Gone through a few sets of reverse gears.
>(Extra room left for RMD constructive comments)
> Thank you.
Your wlecome.
>
> MX Tuner
--
Rob
Impulse
Bruce Arnold wrote:
>
> mxt...@atl.mindspring.com (Mark Klein) wrote:
> >
> >> As far as leaner ratios giving more horsepower, I have to
> >> disagree. I have never seen a dyno chart showing that, in fact
> >> most dyno runs will show you the opposite. I have seen quite
> >> engines) run as much as 16:1. You see more oil gives you a
> >> better ring-seal, which in turn leads to better and more
> >> consistant compression.
> >
> >Gee its nice to see someone else say this. I agree 110%!!
> >
> >
>
> About a year ago, Dirt Bike did an article where they dyno tested a bike for
> power and then inspected it for wear while using different fuel/oil ratios.
> They found no significant differences in power or wear between 16:1 and 50:1.
No offense Bruce, but I would trust Dirt Bikes opinions and methods
about as much as letting Hilliary Clinton do my accounting.
richard...
Impulse
tma...@aol.com wrote:
>
> In article <598rip$k...@camel5.mindspring.com>,
> Wait a minute guys... I understood from discussions out here that a
> richer mixture would actually lean out your engine.
There is nothing more richer than a 100% richard...
Boink!
richard...
ATVDSOT
In article <32BB33...@path1.uchsc.edu>, Impulse
<cyto...@path1.uchsc.edu> wrote:
> No offense Bruce, but I would trust Dirt Bikes opinions and methods
> about as much as letting Hilliary Clinton do my accounting.
And exactly what do you base that opinion on?
- Don
--
"If you always or never agree with me, I can't respect you" - Don Williams
Charlie Daubitz
fast...@soho.ios.com (ATVDSOT) wrote:
>- Don
most here base their opinions on their own expierences
Have you ever tried to jet your bike with the jets the magazines
reccomend. It never works ( like they would know your elevation,
ambient temp, mods, oil ratio and all the other things that make it
rich or lean ) but in their tests they always say what jet they had
to change to to make the bike run better but it will never work for
you. There's too much stuff they don't say. like, who's putting in
the most adds that month and why their stuff is just what you need to
buy. It's all so much BS
Todd Heemsbergen
cd1...@airmail.net (Charlie Daubitz) wrote:
>fast...@soho.ios.com (ATVDSOT) wrote:
>>- Don
You echo my opinions on this matter. I think that since Roger
DeCoster has been with the magazine they should call it Rogers Bike.
Tire test. What's best of course the tires Roger uses. Bike test
last year, Suzuki.
Roger seems to have an opinion on everything (he's almost as bad as me
:-)
Todd Heemsbergen
National Sales Manager / Moore O.P. Services
e-mail todds...@usa.pipeline.com
home page http://pwp.usa.pipeline.com/~toddsvette/todd.htm
Gary Moman
Caribou1 wrote in article ...
Wow! Comments from both you and MX Stupor. In agreement no less! I having
a little trouble with this kind of depth from a guy with snow blower jetting
problems. :-)
Somebody must like you, the weather shifted last night and the prevailing
wind is from the south, headed your way. Subsequently things have warmed up
here considerably. (Balmy 60s.) Hope some of it makes it your way. Much
better than that cold stuff you sent down last week. Brrrr.
BTW: To the best of my knowledge the reason rings leak is rounding, which is
particularly bad in 2-smokes due to the short skirt and loose clearance
specs. I agree with the speed phenomenon reducing leakage, but apparently
that is countered by the combustion pressure (800 PSI typical). That combined
with the higher pressure density near the rings due to the air volume being
compressed towards one end of the chamber by the oncoming piston. (Air
doesn't like being moved.) New rings have a nice sharp edge, while old ones
seem to suffer from the socially embarrassing "wedgie" effect. Actually, too
much oil on the wall will cause the same affect, overloading the ring and
causing it to hydroplane and leak, reducing compression pressure. The
combustion pressure then completely blows out the oil layer and causes
pumping loss. (Hence the need for an oil scraper ring on 4 strokes.) Do you
think anybody will actually read this?? After all we have been chastised of
late for "bandwidth" wastage. :~)
Can you get Frosty to throw that white stuff in piles, kinda like doubles or
something? If you worked the driveway just right maybe you could get a whoop
section going.
Gary M
Balmy Las Vegas
97 CR500 + Marzocchi/Ohlins ( KTM role model! )
Caribou1
I agree about the other stuff. Great choice of legs.
Merry Christmas, Gary!