Sheared bolt on XR
Jason McCabe
overtorqued one of the nuts because the bolt just sheared off. It's one of
the four bolts that holds on the axle retainer piece. I read in an old post
that you can buy a new stud and replace just the stud, but does anyone know
how this is done? I mean, is the part threaded? If so, what keeps it from
spinning when you torque down the nut?
Thanks,
Jason
Jay C
news:IJjl9.37003$Fw2.7...@twister.austin.rr.com...
The fork studs are threaded on both sides. Pinch bolt torque is 9 ft-lbs,
which is roughly finger tight plus a tad. The stud is held in the fork with
red loctite.
Taking out the broken stud is the hard part - some have successfully used
vice-grips. I couldn't get vice-grips to hold without stripping - lots of
resistance until the loctite lets go. I ended up using a monkey wrench -
the monkey wrench cam-locks on the stud and worked great. The stud will
unscrew counter-clockwise like normal.
Use two nuts to put the new stud in. Use one to lock the other on one side
of the stud, then screw the other end of the stud into the fork like a bolt.
Don't forget to use loctite when installing the new stud. Also, buy
yourself an inch-pound torque wrench so you don't break all the rest of the
studs (or your oil-filter cover bolts for that matter) - Husky (from Home
Depot) makes a nice 3/8" drive one for <$50.
Jay
Mike W.
I remember that thread too.. I think it involved heat.
Might be able to find it on Google if you do a search on "stud" and "XR"
and wade through all the stuff about me:)
Mike
--
Mike W.
96 XR400
74 CZ250 Enduro
BRC, AMA, NETRA, NOHVCC, NRA
Suburban trail-riding best practices:
http://www.crocker.com/~mwilliams/Suburban.htm
MXOldtimer
>I remember that thread too.. I think it involved heat.
>
>Might be able to find it on Google if you do a search on "stud" and "XR"
>and wade through all the stuff about me:)
>
>Mike
>
Would the electric motor work on a frozen fork stud as well ?
Doug
Mike W.
Doug.... an electric motor works on anything... silly.
plat4
Jason I have had this problem on my 85 XR 600. The posts are threaded on
both sides. If I remember correctly there is a small place between the threads
on each post that is non-threaded but it is narrow. Tighten the posts by hand
first when installing them. Then take a needle nose pliers and further tighten
the post from the non threaded section.It should be tight enough after that.
From my experience with this I have found that it does not have to be that
tight because the tension put on the posts from the nuts keeps things honest.
Do not worry about tightening the posts so much or else you may strip them ,
and they are real easy to strip because they are made if aluminum. And locktite
is not necessary but if you want to go ahead and use it. I replaced those same
posts on my XR back in *1990* and they never became lose , no locktite either,
and I ride in some real awful conditions which includes rocks at higher speeds
than many would imagine riding a 300 lb bike through. The parts you speak of
are NOT meant to be very tight at all so be careful.
Manos
Hoyt McKagen
> Do not worry about tightening the posts so much or else you may strip them ,
> and they are real easy to strip because they are made if aluminum.
Nope, the studs are steel. They can also be tightened with a pair of nuts
locked onto them. They should be firmly snugged up but not gorilla'd.
> The parts you speak of
> are NOT meant to be very tight at all so be careful.
These studs if 8 mm shank size, should have 15 ft-lb on their nuts. No
less.
Regards,
Hoyt McKagen
Belfab CNC - http://www.freeyellow.com/members/belfab/belfab.html
Best MC Repair - http://www.freeyellow.com/members/batwings/best.html
Camping/Caving - http://www.freeyellow.com/members/batwings/caving.html
Many people confuse merely breathing in and out, with living
plat4
I've snapped two of these because of *minor* over-tightening and after
looking at the studs when broken in half, I discovered that they are made of an
extremely lightweight metal . I'd bet money that they are not made of steel. I
don't know about the ones on the 200 but the ones on my 600 are no way made of
steel.
They can also be tightened with a pair of nuts
>locked onto them. They should be firmly snugged up but not gorilla'd.
>
>> The parts you speak of
>> are NOT meant to be very tight at all so be careful.
>
>These studs if 8 mm shank size, should have 15 ft-lb on their nuts. No
>less.
Nope , according to the official Honda shop manual, the torque
values for those nuts are 4-7 ft. lbs.
Manos
Jay C
>
> These studs if 8 mm shank size, should have 15 ft-lb on their nuts. No
> less.
I believe they are 6mm - the pinch nuts are 10mm. 9ft-lb spec.
Jay
David Jones
wrote:
15 ft-lbs on those buttery studs and they will all be laying on the
floor...
>Jay
David - '02 KTM200 EXC
djo...@LSidaho.com
http://www.motosports-boise.com/rmd
Joe Dowd
> > less.
>
> I believe they are 6mm - the pinch nuts are 10mm. 9ft-lb spec.
>
> Jay
I use my inch-lb torque wrench for these and have learned to be very,
very careful with the 6mm bolts/nuts.
For example, the bolts holding the cap over the oil filter can't take
109 in-lbs, 85-90 tops.
-The Professor
Hoyt McKagen
>
>
> 15 ft-lbs on those buttery studs and they will all be laying on the
> floor...
Think what you like, but usually axle-cap studs are 8 mm, and 8 mm studs
can take 15 ft-lbs. If you don't believe this, I'm ready to bet.
Jay C
> > floor...
>
> Think what you like, but usually axle-cap studs are 8 mm, and 8 mm studs
> can take 15 ft-lbs. If you don't believe this, I'm ready to bet.
Hoyt,
The XRs use 6mm studs... soft buttery 6mm studs.
Jay
plat4
>> floor...
>
>Think what you like, but usually axle-cap studs are 8 mm, and 8 mm studs
>can take 15 ft-lbs. If you don't believe this, I'm ready to bet.
>
>Regards,
>
>Hoyt McKagen
According to the the official Honda Shop manual for my XR 600R, the
torque values for the nuts you speak of are between 4-7 Ft. lbs. 15 FT. lbs
will snap the posts like pretzels. I know, I have done it already.
Manos
Jay C
> According to the the official Honda Shop manual for my XR 600R,
the
> torque values for the nuts you speak of are between 4-7 Ft. lbs. 15 FT.
lbs
> will snap the posts like pretzels. I know, I have done it already.
I think, if you look again, that you will see that the units of the specs
that you are referring to are in Newton-meters. Divide this number by
0.7375 for foot-lbs. Spec in the XR400 manual is 9 ft-lbs.
Jay
plat4
10-14 NM
OR
4-7 FT lbs.( 1.0-1.4 kg-m)
From The Official Honda Shop Manual for my 85 XR 600R.
Manos
>Jay
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Jeff Deeney
: Think what you like, but usually axle-cap studs are 8 mm, and 8 mm studs
: can take 15 ft-lbs. If you don't believe this, I'm ready to bet.
The XR studs are 6mm. They use a 10mm nut. Your number is probably
correct for an 8mm stud. The head bolts are 8mm and can take a lot of
torque.
If you look at the forces on the XR axle clamp bolts, they are very
small. The bolts only hold the axle into the concave fork notch. This
notch takes all of the shear loading off the bolts.
-Jeffrey Deeney- DoD#0498 NCTR UTMA BRC COHVCO AMA
'99 ATK 260LQ-Stink Wheels '94 XR650L-DreamSickle
We don't stop riding because we get old, we get old because we stop riding.