Thanks,
Chuck
beautiful XR400, that won't run
Ps. I'm 6 feet 4 and a half tall and weigh 210 pounds, so I can really get
'over' the bike to kick it into life - I can imagine the XR400 is a much harder
work for smaller riders (my brother-in-law can never get his going, so I end up
starting it for him). Cue flames from 'shorties' out there! :-)
Steve Phelan.
-- Since it was starting well and now it's not anymore, something in the
equation has changed. If your carb circuits are still clean, then look
elsewhere. Is the temperature a factor. My DR350 had to be leaned over until
the carb overflowed out the hoses before it started in cold weather. This put
a fresh charge of gas in the float bowl. The gas in the float bowl would lose
enough of the "high end vapors" out the carburetor vents (through
evaporation) while travelling to a ride or race. Other than that...The
valves should be adjusted occassionally or they will tighten up and leak some
of the compression. This could definitely cause hard starting. The schedule
for the DR on valve adjustment was; After the first 6 hours of operation and
then every 60 hours of running time after that.
Jim Cook - Wudsracer
Gas Gas EC 250
Team Cheesy Poof
http://www.off-road.com/vendor/dirtbike/smack.html
-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own
>My XR 400 is five months old and has been getting progressively hard to
>start.
<snip>
My XR250 is hard to start in the cold, or I should say *was* hard to
start.
Did this condition start with the cold weather?
My routine: Bump up the idle with the adjuster about a turn or so.
(That seems to be the secret) Then full choke, comp release in,
throttle full open, kick through about 10 strokes. Choke to half,
throttle closed, kick. If it doesn't fire after a couple of kicks I
repeat the above routine. After it fires I may have to modulate
between full and half choke for 30 seconds or so to keep it running.
As soon as possible I put the choke to off and let it run at the high
idle, while I put my gear on, until it the cylinder is warm. Readjust
the idle and shut it down, it's good to go from here on out......
Another thing to check would be valve adjustment, if they have
tightened up enough to decrease you compression it will be hard to
start. Also put in a fresh plug.
>Chuck
>beautiful XR400, that won't run
DJ
Email: djo...@cyberhighway.net
Home of the "The Very Unofficial RMD Page"
http://www.cyberhighway.net/~djones/
dirt...@arkansas.net wrote in message <76rspq$1tv$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>...
>> Chuck Cook wrote:
>>
>> > My XR 400 is five months old and has been getting progressively hard to
>> > start. Yesterday I gave up after about 100 kicks. Why is this thing
such a
>> > beast to start? I go riding with a friend who has an old IT350 and it
fires
>> > right up. I have about 200 miles on my bike and fuel stabilizer in the
tank
>> > and start it every two weeks. I guess I will take it to the dealer to
have
>> > them check it out under warranty.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > Chuck
>> > beautiful XR400, that won't run
>>
>>
>
>
>My XR 400 is five months old and has been getting progressively hard to
>start. Yesterday I gave up after about 100 kicks
Chuck,
Has the Air Temperature been getting progressively colder also?
XR's can be a bit difficult to start if not jetted correctly. It is possible
that it is jetted lean for this time of the year. Take a look at Honda's
Temperature and Altitude Correction Chart. On my XR250R basically
every 18 degrees I rejet. I simple task.
Vince
98 XR250R
Adjust the valves. Turn up the idle knob then start.
Jay
> My XR250 is hard to start in the cold, or I should say *was* hard to
> start.
Whoa, whoa, whoa, here. What do you mean "WAS"? Has old skinny DJ got
a new bike? Huh? Huh?
Andre
Old, Fat, and Gassy
and still on the ol' XR250
>djones wrote:
>
><snip>
>
>> My XR250 is hard to start in the cold, or I should say *was* hard to
>> start.
>
>Whoa, whoa, whoa, here. What do you mean "WAS"? Has old skinny DJ got
>a new bike? Huh? Huh?
No I just figured out how to start the SOB in the winter temps....
>
>Andre
>and still on the ol' XR250
Me too....
I start the bike on the trailer so that it stable and easy to kick over.
I rotate the idle adjuster 1 full turn to high idle, put the choke on full,
pull in the compression release and kick it 10 times. I then kick it hard
with the choke on, the throttle off and it usually starts in 1 - 3 kicks.
I also let it warm up while I put my gear on, then set the idle to the
proper speed. I like it a little fast.
Wayne 96 XR400
XRLOVER wrote in message <19990105222510...@ng-fc1.aol.com>...
>I experienced hard starting when cold until I started leaning it over
before I
>start it. I just lean it over til the handlebar almost touches the ground,
>just for a second. I haven't had any problems since I started doing this.
Simple procedure. Lean the bike (to the right) over until the bars are just
off the ground. As soon as gas starts spewing from the overflow tube, call
a construction company to drive over with a crane. Once the crane gets
there, use it to lift the goddamned thing back up then......RIDE.
Jay
'98 XR400 (257# dry and standing, 2570# when tipped over)
It is good to rememeber that 4 strokes have accelarator pumps. If a friend
is ridding a four stroke and he ridding well, next time you stop do the
following.
Get you helmet on and bike started first. Casually idle over to him. Then
grap this thottle and give it a couple of quick turns thus flooding his
bike. (This works real well on a mates WR400) He will be so exhausted from
starting this bike he will ride like shit the rest of the day. Be ready for
some form of revenge.
Mark Van Echteld
Melbounre Austrailia
Volvo200
> It is good to rememeber that 4 strokes have accelarator pumps.
> (This works real well on a mates WR400)
Works pretty much only on the wr and yz400. Most of the 4strokes in the US
market (XR, KLX) don't have accelerator pumps.
Uwe Hale - 89 YZ250WR, 99 GasGas EC200
Thanks to: Team LCS, www.lcsracing.com
Smackover MotorSports, www.off-road.com/vendor/dirtbike/smack.html
2) Kick it thru a few times with the compression release on.
3) Kick with full choke and roll the throttle on at end of kick, not
during kick as is most peoples habit.
4) If the above fails to start in 5 kicks, I shut the gas off, drain
carb via bolt in btm of float bowl, turn gas back on and start over.
I suspect the float level may be set high since my bike sputters after
real rough whoops or after a jump. After properly setting the float
level, my bike might be easier to start and less prone to flooding.
On Mon, 04 Jan 1999 20:59:11 GMT, "Chuck Cook"
<thec...@reno.quik.com> wrote:
>My XR 400 is five months old and has been getting progressively hard to
>start. Yesterday I gave up after about 100 kicks. Why is this thing such a
>beast to start? I go riding with a friend who has an old IT350 and it fires
>right up. I have about 200 miles on my bike and fuel stabilizer in the tank
>and start it every two weeks. I guess I will take it to the dealer to have
>them check it out under warranty.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chuck
>beautiful XR400, that won't run
>
>
Riv...@sideways.trees.ouch
I was wondered why the guys on the XR400 just looked at me stupid.
Didn't the XR250/350 Dual Carb model (late 1980s) have a accelarator pump?
or an I going mad? No don't answer that I think I known the answer for some
time now.
Mark Van Echteld
Volvo200
>i have an xr600 and asked honda dealer and they told me that they all start
>different and you jkust have to find the best way to start
I put together the top end of an 82 xr500. Got to ride it some before
giving it back, i found out torque will kick your ass...but it just
liked the choke three quarters of the way on and one or two good
boots. Start hot with one boot and no choke. Finding that majic when
cold was hard though, had some sessions booting that thing till I
figured it out. Having a good working ignition ground helps too.<G>
dave dude
96yz250
Remove "nospam" from e-mail for reply
> Mark Van Echteld :
> > It is good to rememeber that 4 strokes have accelarator pumps.
> > (This works real well on a mates WR400)Works pretty much only on the wr and
> yz400. Most of the 4strokes in the USmarket (XR, KLX) don't have accelerator
> pumps.
Absolutely - no accel pump - it is amazing how fast myths spread since yamaha
did the smart thing by doing the same thing so many car carb have had almost
since day one.
If all bike carbs had accel pumps why in the world would any one kick with the
comp in 4 or 5 times when the could just prime the motor with gas with the
throttle? Unless they wanted to strenghten their right leg only...
I have a 94 xrl 250. It has an auto comp so I cant control that I have to
start with less comp.
I noticed with the spark plug out of the motor but still in the boot that kick
speed makes a huge difference as far as spark goes. A slow but steady kick
produces NO VISIBLE SPARK. Kick 2x faster you get an ok spark. Kick at full
speed (with a nice snap) you get a blazing set of sparks that you can see and
hear (and I have a new FULLY 100% charged battery - else at ~ 11 volts and
under the best spark is more that cut in 1/2).
My motor is small (compared to 400cc xr) that it is easy to kick so I often
just start kicking full speed. Now and then in warm weather it will start
first kick.
My '85 honda 200X 4 stroke trike is a diff storry. In good days it start 1st
kick more offten that not which is amazing even after sitting 30 days plus in
the barn. It usually takes around 5-10 kicks. However, I learned by looking
at the plug it floods easily. and after 2-4 kicks you must back off from full
to 1/2 choke. and 5 kicks plus (and or you start to smell gas) no choke and it
can and will start with no choke even if it is 0 degrees or colder out. I ran
it this past weekend at night in the snow.
If my xrl250 really wont kick start I roll it down a hill on the street or
backyard. If it wont even try start then I look further. In the fall I
eliminated the on/off sw (I just use the ign key now). The sw was faulty it
would work then fail. No wonder I would turn it off in the dirt then try to
start it and would say it is as if it is turned off - because it was due to the
bad on/off sw.
4 stroke starting is an art. It also helps if you are like my friend who is 6-3
and weighs almost 300lbs. He can pound a xr400 starter same way and adult can
pound a worn out 80cc 2 stroke motor. He started my xr250L after it was laid
over in the rain with a battery that held less than 2 volts! But some times
even 4 strokes have a temper and even the bester kicker cant start 'em - that
is why I love electric start - you don't see people crank starting cars
anymore.
<mass snip>
> But some times
>even 4 strokes have a temper and even the bester kicker cant start 'em - that
>is why I love electric start - you don't see people crank starting cars
>anymore.
Reminds me of a Renault Dauphine I used to own in the late 60s. The
jack handle doubled as a engine crank. Stuck it through a hole in the
bodywork and into the end of the crankshaft pulley. It actually
worked.
>> Uwe Hale -
Paulc wrote in message <369B8A5A...@snet.net>...
>even 4 strokes have a temper and even the bester kicker cant start 'em -
that
>is why I love electric start - you don't see people crank starting cars
>anymore.
Except at the drag races, or go-kart races. You've also got certain
airplanes, lawnmowers, etc. Electric start adds weight. Everything's a
compromise.
--
The only crank I ever turned was on a 1941 International dump truck with a flat
head 6 Dimond Reo Motor. I never got it to start that way - always needed to use
the foot pedal and manual choke.
The other was a 1936 Dodge Brothers Sedan - same story.
The last is current - my fathers' ~ 1956 John Deere 420T - w/ wide front end.
That is coming back in the spring with a fresh motor - maybe I'll try it - If I
can find the crank.
pac.
djo...@cyberhighway.nospam.net wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Jan 1999 12:46:02 -0500, Paulc <mrb...@snet.net> wrote:
>
> <mass snip>
>
> Reminds me of a Renault Dauphine I used to own in the late 60s. The
> jack handle doubled as a engine crank. Stuck it through a hole in the
> bodywork and into the end of the crankshaft pulley. It actually
> worked.
I have a '53 Case DC-10 tractor that we needed to start that way for a
long time, until someone finally got a new 6V battery. With its 258" 4
cyl engine (David Brown) that has a 5 1/2" stroke, it was no easy task!
It has an impulse coupled magneto so that you can crank it 1/4 turn at a
time. The other is our woodsplitter, all custom built, must be around
1968 or so with a V4 Wisconsin air cooled engine. It also has an
impulse mag but is smaller and easier to crank, but the V4 configuration
has compression strokes that aren't anywhere near even so its an
adventure trying not to get your wrist broken if it kicks back at you.
Birken