Anyone know how to make a home-made Clutch Holding Tool (to Change the basket).
Scoob@doo
My clutch basket is a bit notched so I purchased a Hinson basket but I
don't have a clutch holding tool to hold it to get the bolt off. I've
never done this before and don't plan on doing it again so I'd hate to
break down and purchase the tool and I don't know anyone I can borrow
one from.
Anyone have a trick to hold the basket besides buying a specialized
tool?
Thank you!
Jim
dsc-ky
I've heard you can take a fiber and steel and weld then together, add
a handle...
I guess you could make something like this too..
Sc...@doo.net
Thanks for the reply. That holder is exactly what I've seen offered
on various sites and I doubt I can replicate it. I can't believe that
everyone who buys a new basket purchases this tool for a one-time
install. RMD always seems to have guys who have cool tips and tricks:
a bit of PVC above your fork spring to increase stiffness rather than
buy a new sproing, when serviceing your shock, after taking off the
curclip, pump air into the valve to pull it out to get to the bladder,
etc. All ya gotta do with the clutch is get it to stop turning...
There has to be a way to do so with a bit on ingenuity...
Anyone???
Thanks again!
fran...123
<Sc...@Doo.net> wrote in message
news:ricbj510ev53bute8...@4ax.com...
What have you tried? Can't you just put it in gear and stick a rod through
a hole in the sprocket (so you don't bend spokes). Or just apply the rear
brake. If you find a fold over washer in there don't leverage off anything
which might snap in the process of refolding it.
Dean H
> On Fri, 25 Dec 2009 17:08:05 -0800 (PST), dsc-ky
>
>
>
>
>
> <Dudley.Corn...@eku.edu> wrote:
> >On Dec 25, 6:28 pm, Scoob@Doo,net wrote:
> >> Hello!
>
> >> My clutch basket is a bit notched so I purchased a Hinson basket but I
> >> don't have a clutch holding tool to hold it to get the bolt off. I've
> >> never done this before and don't plan on doing it again so I'd hate to
> >> break down and purchase the tool and I don't know anyone I can borrow
> >> one from.
>
> >> Anyone have a trick to hold the basket besides buying a specialized
> >> tool?
>
> >> Thank you!
>
> >> Jim
>
> >I've heard you can take a fiber and steel and weld then together, add
> >a handle...
>
> >I guess you could make something like this too..
>
>
> Thanks for the reply. That holder is exactly what I've seen offered
> on various sites and I doubt I can replicate it. I can't believe that
> everyone who buys a new basket purchases this tool for a one-time
> install. RMD always seems to have guys who have cool tips and tricks:
> a bit of PVC above your fork spring to increase stiffness rather than
> buy a new sproing, when serviceing your shock, after taking off the
> curclip, pump air into the valve to pull it out to get to the bladder,
> etc. All ya gotta do with the clutch is get it to stop turning...
> There has to be a way to do so with a bit on ingenuity...
>
> Anyone???
You should NOT do the thing that has worked for me because you can
cause damage and really ruin your day. You should NOT use a wedge of
soft plastic like a signmaker's squeegee to jam hte gear teath and
hold it that way. I have a squeegee with deep tooth marks from a
clutch basket. This worked great but you should NOT do it because it
can cause damage.
You should really NOT do it that way. I would like to have that nifty
tool or a good substitute.
I have some welding clamp style vice grips, for lack of a better
descriptor. I could see modifying those to act like the pictured tool
maybe without losing the original function. Note the back side of that
tool appears to have pins which would work on some flywheels. Sweet.
Dean H
nice spelling .
the gear teeth...
The $30 delivered tool is cheap insurance. It's the wait for the tool
that would kill me.
You know, because I'm so punctual and productive...
jebus.
Happy Kwannzaa Boxing Day, eh?
sturd
> Anyone have a trick to hold the basket besides buying a specialized
> tool?
Air wrench on the nut, gloved hand on the basket. That's how I
do it. Wrench spins fast/hard enough a tool has never been required.
If you want a tool for the inner basket, take an old steel plate and
weld
on a 6-8 inch long piece of rod. I've never found that necessary
with the above technique.
Go fast. Take chances.
Mike S.
Dean H
BTDT.
That does work, but you still need a holder to properly torque it back
on, yes?
Whelan - '02 200exc (x2) & '04 MTD 38
> a hole in the sprocket (so you don't bend spokes). Or just apply the rear
> brake.
Yeppers, I use a 3/8" breaker bar, through the rear rotor and
sprocket, above (below?) the swingarm to use the swingarm to stop the
bar's rotation, and hit the nut with an air impact. Works every time.
Well, every time I remember to put the switch on the air impact to
spin the socket in the correct direction.
-Yo
fran...123
"Dean H" <dfh...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:7e887853-3ecc-487e...@k17g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
***************************************
Am I missing something here? First you take out all the springs or if a
diaphragm spring do what you must to remove that. Once you pull the springs
wedging the primary drive won't hold the nut I am envisioning. None of my
stuff can you get to the nut without removing the springs and pressure
plate. Some of my stuff has a snap ring instead of a nut. As for wedging
the gears like you would want to do if removing the gear on the crank, I am
not going to look for the manuals but I am pretty sure a CR500 (Honda)
manual calls for a little nylon like block designed to wedge those and
another manual suggested stuffing a shop rag in there. Perhaps a third
manual uses the clutch lock up tool and the rear brake. But that one is
primary chain. If you fuse or somehow attach an inner and outer plate
together wedging the primary gears should hold what you want.
Whelan - '02 200exc (x2) & '04 MTD 38
Mike Baxter
There are several methods, but I have used 2.
1. Use a soft piece of metal (a penny) to jam the gear you had to move
to the Hinson basket.
2. tie the basket with nylon cord to each clutch cover bolt
Good luck,
Mike Baxter
sturd
> BTDT.
> That does work, but you still need a holder to properly torque it back
> on, yes?
Nope, wrench and gloved hand that direction too. Mind
you, I always use a new lock washer and bend it up.
Sc...@doo.net
>>curclip, pump air into the valve to pull it out to get to the bladder,
>>etc. All ya gotta do with the clutch is get it to stop turning...
>>There has to be a way to do so with a bit on ingenuity...
>>
>>Anyone???
>>
>>Thanks again!
>
>There are several methods, but I have used 2.
>
>1. Use a soft piece of metal (a penny) to jam the gear you had to move
>to the Hinson basket.
>
>2. tie the basket with nylon cord to each clutch cover bolt
>
>Good luck,
>
>Mike Baxter
Mr Baxter!
I like your second alternative! Great idea! Thanks buddy!!!!!
Sc...@doo.net
Thank you! I did do a google newsgroup search before asking but
didn't come up with anything. I guess I'm as computer illiterate as I
am mechanically dis-inclined!!! :-)
I appreciate the help from all!!!!!!
Sc...@doo.net
'04 MTD 38" <yo...@sisna.com> wrote:
Ahhh! Genius! I wanted to ride so I put the bike back together while
I get a bit of advice on how to approach this. Thanks for the tip!!!!
I did try putting the bike in gear but my service manual had me take
the brake lever off to get to the clutch so it didnt' occur to me to
use the brake....
Sc...@doo.net
Hustlin' Hank
I agree. That's the way I do it too. Easy, fast. I put it back on with
a little "blirp" from the 3/8" air ratchet. Fold up the tab and it's
done. Haven't had any problems yet.
Hank
JayC
> to the Hinson basket.
Last time I pulled a clutch, I just jammed in a rag to stop the
primary gear then hit it with an impact wrench. No chance of damage
there...
JayC
I am Tosk
says...
> >> Hello!
> >>
> >> My clutch basket is a bit notched so I purchased a Hinson basket but I
> >> never done this before and don't plan on doing it again so I'd hate to
> >> break down and purchase the tool and I don't know anyone I can borrow
> >> one from.
> >>
> >> Anyone have a trick to hold the basket besides buying a specialized
> >> tool?
> >>
> >> Thank you!
> >>
> >> Jim
> >
> >I've heard you can take a fiber and steel and weld then together, add
> >a handle...
> >
> >I guess you could make something like this too..
> >
> >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/K-L-CLUTCH-HOLDING-TOOL-HONDA-SUZUKI-KAWASAKI-YAMAHA_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4148e37e3dQQitemZ280395742781QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools
>
>
> Thanks for the reply. That holder is exactly what I've seen offered
> on various sites and I doubt I can replicate it. I can't believe that
> everyone who buys a new basket purchases this tool for a one-time
> install. RMD always seems to have guys who have cool tips and tricks:
> a bit of PVC above your fork spring to increase stiffness rather than
> buy a new sproing, when serviceing your shock, after taking off the
> curclip, pump air into the valve to pull it out to get to the bladder,
> etc. All ya gotta do with the clutch is get it to stop turning...
> There has to be a way to do so with a bit on ingenuity...
>
> Anyone???
>
> Thanks again!
Well, I am new at this but if you are changing out the basket anyway,
why not hold it with a screwdriver or something. What 'cha gonna' do,
notch it? ;) Anyway, I have just used a hammer and a wench. I put the
bike in gear and put a wrench on the nut. Then smack the other end of
the wrench with a hammer or bigger wrench to break the nut. I did a few
clutches this season, and didn't buy any special tools.
Rowdy Mouse Racing, whack those nuts!
Tiago
> Well, I am new at this but if you are changing out the basket anyway,
> why not hold it with a screwdriver or something. What 'cha gonna' do,
> notch it? ;)
break it. That metal is very weak, it doesn't stand much force...
Besides, where are you going to support the screwdriver? On the case?
On a gear shaft within the engine? You might damage the part you are
holding the screwdriver against...
I always used the combo 6th gear + rear brake, never had a problem...
This method was also used, with great success, to remove the magneto
bolt...
Now, if you have the wheel off or for some reason the clutch is not
connected to the counter sprocket (engine partially disassembled), the
idea of jamming a coin between gears is an option. I've used that with
success too... :)
I've come to the conclusion that few special tools are really needed.
Some ingenuity and inventiveness and you can adapt anything to do the
job. Magneto exctracting tools (for Hondas, at least), for instance,
are simple long bolts that you can purchase at any hardware store for
cents...
-- T
Wudsracer
***********************************************************
*************************************************************
I use Mike's method. It has worked so well that I never got around
to purchasing the proper tool. Except, I re-use the old washer,
bending it in another place than the original.
I've always tried to avoid using the transmission as a "back-up". It
seems to me like unnecessary wear on the bearings and gear faces.
Today, while helping MXPhlipper remove the countershaft sprocket
retaining nut (27mm), I found that Kawasaki has a history of highly
overtorqing them. I wouldn't let him use the gearbox to help hold the
shaft still. I used a large screwdriver through an unused hole in the
rear sprocket and heavily padded the swingarm where they contacted
during the operation. I sprayed it with my best industrial penetrating
oil. ($14 a can, that I keep hidden from general view, so it won't be
used for WD40.)
My inexpensive 1/2" drive air impact wrench would not budge it.
After moderately heating the nut, it still wouldn't budge with my air
impact.
I put a four foot cheater pipe on my 1/2" drive breaker bar and had
Phil step on the rear brake pedal to help the screwdriver's plight.
The Sprocket sheared the 3/8" diameter screwdriver clean in two.
I then called the local tire shop, and asked them if I could use
their "large truck wheel" air impact. It spun the nut off like it was
only hand tight. "Ppftt." (That's the sound and duration of the noise
it made. :)
I figure that I applied over 300 ft/lbs of torque to that "installed
at the Kawasaki factory during assembly" 27mm nut with the cheater
pipe. I know it took a very stout air impact to break it loose.
That's insane torque level for a sprocket retaining nut. I'm amazed
that the threads took that much load.
Anyhow... We got it off.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Good Riding,
Jim
Wudsracer/Jim Cook
Smackover Racing
'06 Gas Gas DE300
'82 Husqvarna XC250
Team LAGNAF
Volker Bartheld
> My inexpensive 1/2" drive air impact wrench would not budge it.
> After moderately heating the nut, it still wouldn't budge with my air
> impact.
> I put a four foot cheater pipe on my 1/2" drive breaker bar and had
> Phil step on the rear brake pedal to help the screwdriver's plight.
> The Sprocket sheared the 3/8" diameter screwdriver clean in two.
> I then called the local tire shop, and asked them if I could use
> their "large truck wheel" air impact. It spun the nut off like it was
> only hand tight. "Ppftt." (That's the sound and duration of the noise
> it made. :)
Jupp. There are those impact wrenches and there are others. BTDT, just
recently. I had a some shop mechanics change the front wheel bearings of my
Audi A3. Why do I remember? Well, changed from summer to winter tires
recently. At least tried to - with 75% success. The remaining wheel - you
guess it - was tightened at the shop. Rememer: Aluminum wheel, between
80-100Nm are required.
Tried a wheel spider. Tried wheel spider with cheater pipe. It just bent
(the spider), still no cake. Tried neighbours air impact wrench, first with
6 Bar, then 10. Ratatatatatatatatata - nothing.
Gave the wheel-bolt with my 2kg hammer (no electrical motor available) a
few good smacks - hopeless. This was happening at -10�C in front of my
garage. I figured, that heat was the key to success.
Drove to a friends house, he has a lifting plattform - and a heater. Took
the Steinel hot air gun and heated the bolt to about 150�C - it sizzled
when touching it with a wet finger. Smacked it again, ratatatatatatatatata,
cheater pipe, the whole story. Nothing.
End of day one.
Next day, I arrived at the shop in a pretty disgruntled mood. Sure, only
the pros hove pro-tools and since I'm not a pro, its no wonder I failed
removing the wheel-bolts. So they thought.
The cracked a pipe. The blasted an impact wrench nut. The rounded the
wheel-bolt. They welded on a nut three times and shared it off. The ruined
the mouth of the WIG-welder.
They were clueless.
About 2hrs later, the master craftsman/foreman showed up, after having
heard the sounds of our fruitless attempts. He told us to bounce the
bolt(s) REALLY hard. Well, really hard meant to take the big fucking hammer
(some 10kg beast) and - using a hardened steel extension - smack the bolt
like you mean it. There were sparks flying and there went my hopes that the
(new) wheel bearing will hold up for quite some time.
After the procedure, the head of the bolt looked like a mushroom. This was
intended because the foreman now thrashed on another size 17 not with the
exact same mallet. Form-locking. With a 2m extension (four feet or so), two
mechanics were bouncing on the pipe and another guy was keeping the nut
from shearing off.
This finally did the trick. The stubborn bolt was barely oxidized. No clue
why it was stuck so tight. And, yes: I was knocked down about so much
violence.
Hell, at least the donated five new wheel-bolts and allowed me to change
the wheels using their lifter. Well, after I threatened becoming an axe
murderer when they were going to send me off in the coldness of
bavarian-siberia again.
So - that was my christmas story. I hope, you appreciated it.
Moral: Always clean the heads of the bolts (especially if the have a cone-
or bullet-type mating surface) and don't use the impact wrench for
fastening screws - unless you know what you're doing...
> Anyhow... We got it off.
>
> Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
>
> Good Riding,
My words.
Cheers (mulled wine),
Volker
--
@: I N F O at B A R T H E L D dot N E T
3W: www.bartheld.net
sturd
[tales of stuck bolts/.nuts deleted]
The fact that they were still tight and not stripped
implies that they may have been designed to be
tightened that tight. Maybe.
In both cases though, assembly lube (never-seize
or equivalent) should always be used. Does not
apply to inside your transmission case of course.
The lube insures adequate torque is achieved
during tightening and increases chances you'll
be able to get it apart.
Not much you can do about factory (shop)
assembly except take everything apart when
you get it home and do it over.
Volker Bartheld
> Volker Bartheld and Wudsracer tell:
> [tales of stuck bolts/.nuts deleted]
> The fact that they were still tight and not stripped
> implies that they may have been designed to be
> tightened that tight.
8.8 can stand a lot of abuse if it comes in a ~M10 fine thread... I found
that you need to be VERY inventive, if you really want to blunder when it
comes to servicing cars or bikes. There are all kinds of little notches or
protrusions that fit in grooves etc., different size/lenght bolts that fit
nowhere else or special flanged nuts that simply can't be installed
elsewhere. So you need to be a "Pro" and have "Pro"-Toolz to force getting
that stuff mounted incorrectly when it refuses to fit so persistently...
;-)
> In both cases though, assembly lube (never-seize
> or equivalent) should always be used. Does not
> apply to inside your transmission case of course.
Sure. That's what I always do - even if the "Pros" recommend against using
any sort of grease on wheel bolts. I dunno why, never ever had a wheel bolt
come off.
> The lube insures adequate torque is achieved during tightening and
> increases chances you'll be able to get it apart.
Second that!
> Not much you can do about factory (shop) assembly except take everything
> apart when you get it home and do it over.
Exactly what I did when I got my Suzuki RMZ450. It turned out that
everything was greased OK - not overwhelmingly thorough but at least
sufficiently. No dry spots. I added the most amount at the stearing head
bearing(s) and the Pro-Lever bearings. The wheels had bearings that were
sealed to both sides (2RS-type, plus additional dust seals) - unlike the
YZ426F that was completely open there.
Cheers,
sturd
> > The lube insures adequate torque is achieved during tightening and
> > increases chances you'll be able to get it apart.
>
> Second that!
Actually, I mis-spoke there. It's adequate preload you need and lube
insures that X torque = Y preload. Preload is what holds bolted
joints
together, not torque. Torque is the means to get the preload.
HellSickle
> Hello!
>
> My clutch basket is a bit notched so I purchased a Hinson basket but I
> never done this before and don't plan on doing it again so I'd hate to
> break down and purchase the tool and I don't know anyone I can borrow
> one from.
>
> Anyone have a trick to hold the basket besides buying a specialized
> tool?
Well, it's a specialized tool, but not so specialized that it won't
work on just about any bike out there.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/gear_jammer_gear_locking_tool/
Before I had this tool, I would fold some copper & jam it between the
gears. The gear jammer from Motion Pro is very slick. It has a
magnet to help hold it in place.
-Jeff-