Lighter clutch pull on XR-80?
Steve in CO
Just made the latest addition to our dirt bike family - an '84 XR-80 for my
son. It's the first non-Yamaha bike in the family, but since nobody but
Honda has figured out there is a market for small cc four strokes yet, it'll
have to do. ;-)
Anyway, my son is not quite 9 and not real big, so the bike is bordering on
too big for him. His feet barely touch the ground, but I figure at the rate
he's growing, it won't be long before it's just right.
We started riding lessons the other day, and he's doing real good except the
clutch is a little too hard for him to pull. His hand gets sore quickly so
he tries to use both hands to pull it in - even while he's moving! Not a
terribly safe practice for a beginner.
I know he's gonna have to do some muscle building, but in the mean time, is
there anything I can do to make the clutch a little easier and avoid him
getting discouraged right away? Has anyone ever tried adding a helper spring
to the actuator arm or anything? Would the constant tension on the clutch
arm cause excessive wear?
Also, the "brake side" number plate (side cover, side panel - whatever you
want to call it) is missing and the rear fender is cracked. Can anyone
suggest a good mail order or online supplier of OEM style plastic at a
decent price?
Thanks in advance,
---Steve in CO
'86 TT-350
Uwe Hale
> I know he's gonna have to do some muscle building, but in the mean time, is
> there anything I can do to make the clutch a little easier and avoid him
> getting discouraged right away?
Start by replacing the clutch cable. If it's still hard it might need a new
clutch. At least new plates and maybe a new hub and basket if it's notched
bad. If the cable doesn't help, you'll have to take the clutch apart and see
what is worn.
> Has anyone ever tried adding a helper spring
> to the actuator arm or anything?
Not if they have any sense.
> Would the constant tension on the clutch
> arm cause excessive wear?
Yes, it would be like riding the clutch all the time.
Uwe Hale - 89 YZ250WR, 99 GasGas EC200
Thanks to: Team LCS, www.lcsracing.com
Smackover MotorSports, www.off-road.com/vendor/dirtbike/smack.html
L. Andre Ming
Hi Steve...
I think a "helper" spring would not be good for the clutch release
mechanism, as well as the plates themselves.
From the description of your bike, can I assume it's a used bike?
That so... I wonder if the biggest problem is simply a shot clutch
cable? An 80 shouldn't have that tough of a pull. Something's stiff.
First thing I'd suspect is the cable. It's amazing what a new cable can
do to for reducing clutch pull. Might want to try there. (Yes, there are
"easy pull" attachments that can be affixed... but I'd still suspect a
rusty/dirty/shot clutch cable.
Any others got any ideas?
Andre
Old, Fat, and Gassy
Bill Gearhart
surprisingly
inexpensive. You might try installing a longer lever to help the clutch, if he
can reach it
that is (longer lever). He only needs to use the clutch for starting and
stoping.
Regards
BillGear
Steve in CO wrote:
> Hey all!
>
> Just made the latest addition to our dirt bike family - an '84 XR-80 for my
> son. It's the first non-Yamaha bike in the family, but since nobody but
> Honda has figured out there is a market for small cc four strokes yet, it'll
> have to do. ;-)
>
> Anyway, my son is not quite 9 and not real big, so the bike is bordering on
> too big for him. His feet barely touch the ground, but I figure at the rate
> he's growing, it won't be long before it's just right.
>
> We started riding lessons the other day, and he's doing real good except the
> clutch is a little too hard for him to pull. His hand gets sore quickly so
> he tries to use both hands to pull it in - even while he's moving! Not a
> terribly safe practice for a beginner.
>
> I know he's gonna have to do some muscle building, but in the mean time, is
> there anything I can do to make the clutch a little easier and avoid him
> getting discouraged right away? Has anyone ever tried adding a helper spring
> to the actuator arm or anything? Would the constant tension on the clutch
> arm cause excessive wear?
>
Kenneth Murphy
: Hey all!
<snip>
: I know he's gonna have to do some muscle building, but in the mean time, is
: there anything I can do to make the clutch a little easier and avoid him
: getting discouraged right away? Has anyone ever tried adding a helper spring
: to the actuator arm or anything? Would the constant tension on the clutch
: arm cause excessive wear?
Steve, is the cable in good shape? Not kinked, and properly lubed? If not,
replace the cable. If it's in good shape, go get a cable luber. Hose the
inside of the cable with contact cleaner until it's clear running out the
bottom. Follow that up with a spritz of WD40 or Triflow. It should be
much easier.
<snip>
: Thanks in advance,
: ---Steve in CO
You're in Elizabeth, right? (faulty memory)
: '86 TT-350
--- Happiness is a dead bike thief ---
O aka Ken Murphy (kmur...@ford.com) Owner/Operator: 98YZ250
<M>erfman Thanks to: Jen, Erin, Apex Sports, DNA Racing, FMF Racing,
_/ \_ Boyesen/Twin Air, Sprocket Specialists and Works Connection
Disclaimer: Don't even pretend you thought I spoke for Visteon
Steve in CO
new
>clutch. At least new plates and maybe a new hub and basket if it's notched
>bad. If the cable doesn't help, you'll have to take the clutch apart and
see
>what is worn.
The cable looks fairly new, although whoever installed it botched the job
and kinked it a little right near the pivot ball in the lever. They broke a
couple strands right at the end, so I was thinking of replacing it anyway. I
did drag out my old "lube injector" (does anybody still use these?) and
sprayed some lithium lubricant in to the cables. Didn't help noticably on
the clutch, but it did seem to free up the brake a little.
I wasn't aware worn clutch plates could cause excessive lever pull. I hope
that's not the case, I wasn't planning to do any major work to this thing
right away. The clutch action seems fine to me. For an adult it's a light
pull, it's just the little guy that thinks it's too tough. It works smoothly
and doesn't slip at all even with both of us on it. (Hey, I had to give him
first hand experience, right?)
>> Has anyone ever tried adding a helper spring
>> to the actuator arm or anything?
>
>Not if they have any sense.
Answers that.
Thanks.
Steve in CO
Yes, definately. Couldn't bear to pay nearly as much for an 80 as I did for
my 350 back in '86.
>That so... I wonder if the biggest problem is simply a shot clutch
>cable?
Perhaps. Like I said in my response to Uwe Hale, it's not particularly stiff
to an adult, just an 8 year old. I pull the cable off the lever and
actuator, and it seems to slide ok, but it's hard to judge without tension
on it. I'll probably pick up a new cable next time I head over to the
dealer.
Steve in CO
surprisingly
>inexpensive.
They're closed on Sunday and Monday so I haven't gotten hold of them yet. I
assumed they'd be sky-high. (Yamaha always is) I plan to give em a call
later today. That's encouraging though.
>You might try installing a longer lever to help the clutch, if he can reach
it
>that is (longer lever).
Something to try. I'll see what kind of levers I can find.
MX Tuner
>The cable looks fairly new, although whoever installed it botched the job
>and kinked it a little right near the pivot ball in the lever. They broke a
>couple strands right at the end, so I was thinking of replacing it anyway.
Definitely.
>I did drag out my old "lube injector" (does anybody still use these?)
Absolutely.
>and sprayed some lithium lubricant in to the cables.
Lithium lubricant is good for killing roaches. Like Murph said, use
WD-40 or better yet, Tri-Flow (available at Wal-Mart).
>Didn't help noticably on
>the clutch, but it did seem to free up the brake a little.
Wait until you try it with the Tri-Flow.
>I wasn't aware worn clutch plates could cause excessive lever pull. I hope
>that's not the case,
Really it's more of a case of the basket an/or hub getting notched. I
doubt if the 80 has too much of a problem since it is relatively
underpowered.
MX Tuner
Steve in CO
Seems to be the consensus. Thanks.
>You're in Elizabeth, right? (faulty memory)
Good memory, actually. :-)
Kenneth Murphy
: "Steve in CO" <sy...@plinet.com> wrote:
: >The cable looks fairly new, although whoever installed it botched the job
: >and kinked it a little right near the pivot ball in the lever. They broke a
: >couple strands right at the end, so I was thinking of replacing it anyway.
: Definitely.
Yeppers! If you have a couple of frayed end cables, they'll bind up in
the housing and make life miserable for said clutch user.
: >I did drag out my old "lube injector" (does anybody still use these?)
: Absolutely.
Me too.
: Lithium lubricant is good for killing roaches. Like Murph said, use
: WD-40 or better yet, Tri-Flow (available at Wal-Mart).
You need to use something very light. Most "lubricants" simply
attract dirt and cause the cable to gum up faster. I've heard of
folks using chain wax, but that seems to me to just be a recipe
for disaster, or at least, gummy cables.
Uwe Hale
Steve in CO wrote in message <74jfs6$2s7$1...@remarQ.com>...
>The cable looks fairly new,
Hard to tell unless you cut it apart.
>I wasn't aware worn clutch plates could cause excessive lever pull. I
Thin plates could let the clutch arm on the motor and the cable work at less
than a 90 degree angle.
You're right about the notches. They shouldn't affect clutch pull. They
can affect how the clutch works, usually causing drag.
tman
goes inbetween the clutch cable and the lever. It reduces the
pressure it takes to pull the clutch lever. I think that might help
the little tike pull the clutch---------------Tory
On Tue, 8 Dec 1998 09:15:14 -0700, "Steve in CO" <sy...@plinet.com>
wrote:
>>Steve, is the cable in good shape? Not kinked, and properly lubed?
Ryan Gibson
it's the cable, because it does snap back quickly, unlike my front break
which is slow both ways...Definately gonna have to replace that. But is
there any way to release some of that tension on MY clutch or is that
standard for a 250?
--
"When I'm feeling down, I like to whistle. It make the neighbor's
dog run to the end of his chain and gag himself"
Steve in CO
suppliers now.
Uwe Hale
> >Steve, is the cable in good shape? Not kinked, and properly lubed?
>
> Seems to be the consensus. Thanks.
>
I forgot. Check around and see if anyone makes softer clutch springs for it.
D.J. or Sandy Petrou
Just got a salvage "81" to give my sone for xmas. I am looking at plasitc
as we speak. Have your dealer look at their Parts Unlimited Catalog and use
this info.
Off Road Cat.
Desc. page part# price
R fender 311 M13501 19.95
Side panel 312 not shown hmmmmmmm
set
F fender 310 not shown try85-95 #M13504 21.95
I'm having an easier time with my 81.
Good luck
D.J. Petrou
Polaris/Suzuki of Nashville
Bill Gearhart
think, this may help some...
MX Tuner wrote:
> "Steve in CO" <sy...@plinet.com> wrote:
>
> >The cable looks fairly new, although whoever installed it botched the job
> >and kinked it a little right near the pivot ball in the lever. They broke a
> >couple strands right at the end, so I was thinking of replacing it anyway.
>
> Definitely.
>
> >I did drag out my old "lube injector" (does anybody still use these?)
>
> Absolutely.
>
> >and sprayed some lithium lubricant in to the cables.
>
> Lithium lubricant is good for killing roaches. Like Murph said, use
> WD-40 or better yet, Tri-Flow (available at Wal-Mart).
>
MX Tuner
>Isn't the clutch adjustable on the XR's. Small bolt/locking nut arrangement i
>think, this may help some...
Yeah but that adjustment is more for freeplay than clutch pull effort.
>> >I wasn't aware worn clutch plates could cause excessive lever pull. I hope
>> >that's not the case,
>> Really it's more of a case of the basket an/or hub getting notched. I
>> doubt if the 80 has too much of a problem since it is relatively
>> underpowered.
And looking back at this, it looks to say what it wasn't meant to
(does that make sense?). The notched clutch components won't increase
the pull effort either but will give other clutch problems (i.e.
clutch drag).
MX Tuner
Kenneth Murphy
: suppliers now.
Holy poop on a stick! $80 for an XR80 *clutch* *cable*? What year,
lemme know and I'll check around too.
: ---Steve in CO
Steve in CO
cable was only $11.
The cable doesn't seem bad at all considering the last one I bought (about 20
years ago for my '74 MX-80) was about $7. Factoring for inflation, the price
actually went down. :-)
$80 for a hunk of plastic seems excessive though. Tried a couple salvage yards.
No luck yet.
---Steve in CO
'86 TT-350
Kenneth Murphy wrote in message <74s8q4$ac...@eccws1.dearborn.ford.com>...
nob...@nowhere.com
http://www.motionpro.com/clutch cables for $7.99 (part no. C5537, fits
79-97 XR-80 and 85-97 XR-100)
On 11 Dec 1998 23:11:00 GMT, kmur...@chip1.uucp (Kenneth Murphy)
wrote:
>Steve in CO (sy...@plinet.com) wrote:
>: Yikes! Just got a price of ~$80 from Honda. I'm checking the used parts
>: suppliers now.
>
>Holy poop on a stick! $80 for an XR80 *clutch* *cable*? What year,
>lemme know and I'll check around too.
>
>: ---Steve in CO
>