Leaking top end gasket on 1983 Honda XL 250 R
Ron
the top rocker arm cam cover....I checked with my local Honda dealer and
they told me it had no gasket and that I would have to use sealant....no
wonder it is leaking....has anyone else had this problem?...and if
so...could you share some insight in the best sealant to use....thank you in
advance.
Ron
Mike Corey
the Honda shop doesn't have it, the same stuff with a different name can
be found at other dealers. Yamabond at a Yamaha dealer, etc. Use it
conservatively.
Do not, I repeat DO NOT use RTV Silicon. That stuff tends glob up and
block off very important oil flow passages. I know this from a bad
experience.
Actually, save yourself the trouble and all the work and sell me the
bike! ;-)
Tiago Rocha
that's a great bike. Are yours the version with two carburetors? I had
a buddy with a 84, one carburetor. Tons of fun! I remember tearing
that bike apart hundreds of times. I believe that yes, there is a
paper gasket... You can make it with thin gasket paper - or use liquid
gasket. Any parts shop should have it.
-- T
googleg...@yahoo.com
I'm not 100% sure about a 1983, but I think the dealer is wrong. I
think it does use a gasket. My 1988 XR250R uses a metal gasket. The
paper aftermarket ones are known to leak. You might get online and try
to find a parts diagram to see what you can find. Bikebandit.com and
many other sites have the diagrams available for free.
Good luck,
Craig
spamT...@yahoo.com
Bikebandit linkee:
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/honda-motorcycle-xl250r-1983/o/m9696
Dave
Ron
Thank you everyone for the quick response.
Ron Major
Ron
of the cylinder.....now what do I do?....can they be welded up then drilled
and tapped? or should I try using a helicoil?
Ron Major
Ron
HardWorkingDog
<DaGdnagM38zAB5rX...@posted.srtcommunications>,
"Ron" <majo...@hotmail.com> wrote:
Never done this myself, but I believe a better repair can be made
using a time-sert thread repair kit. timesert.com
It uses a full threaded insert rather than a coil, as long as you've
got the thickness of material for a wider over-drill.
--
Charles
'99 YZ250
Mike W.
I've been tempted to upgrade to the timesert. I hear good things. I can
also say that the butter-soft heads of both my KZ1000P's are brimming with
Helicoils with no complaints at all. One thing I like about Helicoils is
that if I screw it up, as I have done before, it's not a huge pushup to
repair it.
As for RTV, I have to disagree with the previous poster about the material
itself tending to break away and fatally clog an oil galley. Gasket-forming
material is known to do this when applied in a ham-fisted way but when used
in line with best practices, it works well.
Good luck.
Mike
--
Mike W.
96 XR400
70 CT70
71 KG 100 (Hodaka-powered)
99 KZ1000P (training)
99 KZ1000P (rider)
00 Beta Rev-3
john
imperfections on their cylinder heads (mating surface not walls) it's a
industrial strength JB weld type thing. you should be able to clean out the
hole fill it with the devcon plastic steel, then drill & tap as needed. if
you don't mind pulling the engine ever time you need to look at the head,
then you could just devcon a stud in the hole and use a nut on the top to
secure the head....
Of course the preferred method is to cut/drill/grind out the impurities of
the metal... acid wash it to remove stray iron then weld it up and drill &
tap...
"Ron" <majo...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:IMydnZYbGdfiBJrX...@posted.srtcommunications...
Mike Baxter
wrote:
I think a Heli Coil will work just fine. The benefit is that Heli
Coil kits are available at most good hardware stores.
Mike Baxter
Volker Bartheld
>>Never done this myself, but I believe a better repair can be made
>>using a time-sert thread repair kit. timesert.com
> I've been tempted to upgrade to the timesert. I hear good things.
Absolutely second that. Repaired the stripped threads at my YZ426F's lower
shock mount (soft aluminum) with a T-Sert. Worked like a charm, rock-solid.
Use some construction glue (tightest loctite you can find) when screwing
the insert in so it won't come lose under any circumstances.
Cheers,
Volker
--
@: I N F O at B A R T H E L D dot N E T
3W: www.bartheld.net
Tiago Rocha
> Hi!
>
> >>Never done this myself, but I believe a better repair can be made
> >>using a time-sert thread repair kit. timesert.com
> > I've been tempted to upgrade to the timesert. I hear good things.
>
> Absolutely second that. Repaired the stripped threads at my YZ426F's lower
> shock mount (soft aluminum) with a T-Sert. Worked like a charm, rock-solid.
> Use some construction glue (tightest loctite you can find) when screwing
> the insert in so it won't come lose under any circumstances.
remember: motorcycle screws are thin and if you look at a head/engine
cover whatever, you'll notice that there are lots of screws. Those two
facts means that you don't have to tighten the screws really tight, or
"one turn before snapping the bolt", as my friends say it. Finger
tight + 3/4 turn is often more than enough... Ditch the torque wrench,
it does more harm than good on these small bolts...
good luck!
on a semi-unrelated note, I got myself a bench grinder last saturday
(65USD, 3450rpm, 220v, two grinding wheels, one coarser than other,
black and decker brand). I never owned one. Wow, I'm trully impressed.
Up to now, I salvaged a handful of screwdrivers with broken tips (I
knew I should have kept them), my mechanic's knife is sharper than the
shaving blade I used this morning and my grass trimming scissor is
sharper than when it was new, it was almost a pleasure trimming the
grass yesterday. Also I managed to destroy assorted metal bits I had
at home, while making lots of sparks. Nice toy!
-- T