BajaDesigns DualSport Kit on WR450 Questions
RWC
new WR450...
Almost. There were a couple things that didn't make sense, so I didn't
do them.
First, it says:
"the stator on he electric-start WR's is not powerful enough to charge
the stock battery and run the dual-sport kit at the same time. For this
kit to function properly, the bike's stator must be sent to Baja Designs
for modification. The cost of the service is $30. If this is not done,
the battery will discharge anytime the headlight is turned on
(regardless of bulb size)."
HUH? It came with a 60/55 watt bulb, and they want me to switch it to a
35/35 watt bulb. How the heck is it drawing enough power from a rear
break light (same bulb) and turn signals to use MORE power than stock?
The little LED for high beam? The license plate light? Is that it?
Which leads to the second question. "The stock rectifier/regulator is
not compatible with the motified stator. It must be replaced with the
Baja Designs rectifier/regulator for the battery to charge."
Ok, well, if I didn't change my stator, I don't need to swap regulators...
I guess at worst, my battery will run dead. But, it seemed pretty
extreem to rewind the stator for a brake light, LED (high beam
indicator), and license plate light. It's already an electric start
bike with headlight and tail light.
So, can someone put this in perspective for me? Watts wise or something
I can understand from an electrical draw perspective. They wanted me to
swap in the 35/35 watt bulb from my 60/65 watt factory bulb also (which
I haven't done). ??? HUH?
bob prohaska
> So, can someone put this in perspective for me? Watts wise or something
> I can understand from an electrical draw perspective. They wanted me to
> swap in the 35/35 watt bulb from my 60/65 watt factory bulb also (which
> I haven't done). ??? HUH?
Sounds like somebody did a simple worst-case estimate. The turn
signals filaments draw (IIRC) 21 watts each when they're on. I
believe a DOT-legal brake light is also 21 watts when it's on.
The actual extra draw is less, because the duty cycle on the signals
is only about 50%, but if you're stuck at an intersection, holding
the brakes with the signals on, figure about 40 watts of extra load
on an idling engine. My bikes won't charge at factory idle with the
brakes and blinkers on.
Without knowing more about the OEM-vs-Baja stator/RR it's hard to
guess why they suggest modifying them. Bumping the idle speed up
1-200 rpm is probably sufficient and easy to test. With a rewind
of the stator and a new RR I'd think you could swap in a higher
wattage headlight or add running lights. Otherwise it does not seem
worth the trouble.
bob prohaska
RWC
> In rec.motorcycles.dirt RWC <us...@example.net> wrote:
>
> The actual extra draw is less, because the duty cycle on the signals
> is only about 50%, but if you're stuck at an intersection, holding
> the brakes with the signals on, figure about 40 watts of extra load
> on an idling engine. My bikes won't charge at factory idle with the
> brakes and blinkers on.
I found out on thumpertalk.com that the Baja Designs kit takes the
headlight off the AC side, and puts it on the DC circuit. So, they need
a bit more power on the DC side, and to deal with that, they suggest the
new stator and rectifier.
Putting in LED tail lights and license plate lights will help reduce the
draw, and maybe I can keep the 55/60 watt headlight.
bob prohaska
> I found out on thumpertalk.com that the Baja Designs kit takes the
> headlight off the AC side, and puts it on the DC circuit. So, they need
> a bit more power on the DC side, and to deal with that, they suggest the
> new stator and rectifier.
If it's a single winding alternator it does not make very much difference
whether the headlight is on the AC or DC side of the charging system.
If the bike has a separate AC-only winding for the headlight (like my
'86 Honda tlr200 trials bike) then why not just leave the headlight
wired to the original winding? I don't think DOT rules require that
the headlight have battery backup, only the tail and signals.
> Putting in LED tail lights and license plate lights will help reduce the
> draw, and maybe I can keep the 55/60 watt headlight.
That will help, but not much, they're only 5 W bulbs. LED turn and brake
lights would help much more.
Is there a wiring diagram visible on the Net somewhere?
bob prohaska
RWC
> In rec.motorcycles.dirt RWC <us...@example.net> wrote:
>
> If it's a single winding alternator it does not make very much difference
> whether the headlight is on the AC or DC side of the charging system.
>
> If the bike has a separate AC-only winding for the headlight (like my
> '86 Honda tlr200 trials bike) then why not just leave the headlight
> wired to the original winding? I don't think DOT rules require that
> the headlight have battery backup, only the tail and signals.
Varys from state to state, but I didn't need it. Unfortunately, I
already did everything in the Baja kit (except the stator and
rectifier), as per the instructions, and not sure I could retrace it
backwards. For now, it's daylight and dirt only for my WR, so the
headlight stays off until I finish the Baja Designs program.
If I knew then what I know now, I'd have done it all myself without a
kit. But it's that always the way?
>>Putting in LED tail lights and license plate lights will help reduce the
>>draw, and maybe I can keep the 55/60 watt headlight.
>
> That will help, but not much, they're only 5 W bulbs. LED turn and brake
> lights would help much more.
I didn't think the turn signals pulled that much. But the brake
light/tail light bulb is a combo, so the LED would also, saving on both.
> Is there a wiring diagram visible on the Net somewhere?
on thumpertalk.com, in the WR400+whatever forum, there is a long, long
discussion. Not much fact, but I think they figured it out. (maybe).
I wish I was 100% sure what was going on, but I don't.
Rick Cortese
> In rec.motorcycles.dirt RWC <us...@example.net> wrote:
>
>
>>I found out on thumpertalk.com that the Baja Designs kit takes the
>>headlight off the AC side, and puts it on the DC circuit. So, they need
>>a bit more power on the DC side, and to deal with that, they suggest the
>>new stator and rectifier.
>
>
> If it's a single winding alternator it does not make very much difference
> whether the headlight is on the AC or DC side of the charging system.
>
> If the bike has a separate AC-only winding for the headlight (like my
> '86 Honda tlr200 trials bike) then why not just leave the headlight
> wired to the original winding? I don't think DOT rules require that
> the headlight have battery backup, only the tail and signals.
Just guessing: In California you ~have to be able to have your lights on
with the motor off. Baja Designs probably made their kit to pass states
with that type of legislation.
kent.co...@sbcglobal.net
I was riding my WR down some unfamiliar steep ass shit, following some other moron, goat trail is certainly too steep and sandy to stop on, in the dark, too much rear brake, stall, no lights. Now that's excitement! I don't even know what I missed since I couldn't see. I would have been better off without a light and my eyes were adjusted to the lack of light. Turning that shit off in route was not good.
Which is another good reason to either add a DC lamp (LED low wattage <5W) or change everything to DC via the BD kit. Which YOU already have. BTW the Shorai LiPo batteries are the shit. Light as a feather and lights it up good every time you press the magic button. Plus the operating voltage is 1 to 2 volts higher then Pb /acid so the WR's under-regulated single phase alternator is less likely to cook the battery. The Shorai's really only cost a little more and the weight savings alone is worth the extra cash. They are unbelievably lightweight. And powerful. A good combination of attributes. Affordable, yes, and reliable - so far so good.
The stock WR e-system is not made for everyday freeway commuting or 450-miles a day on the interstate, it is made only for weekend warriors. Use the BD stuff, it is good shit and certainly worth the effort.
the downside is the lights are not quite as bright on a well regulated 12-volt dc system compared to the stock AC (over-driven). A brighter (LED) headlamp(s) with more efficient lenses will overcome this issue with improvement over stock, especially when I stall the damn bike.
I think I'll rewind my own stator, and I'll convert it to be a 3-phase unit.
To the batcave we go.