I've heard horror stories about the aluminum models bending/breaking in
busting digits...or sliding rearward and busting wrists. So I thought about
the Acerbis Rally II's, which are tough plastic with aluminum mounting kits.
I've also been directed the way of Tusk D-Flex handguards, people like em...
So what do you guys recommend? I'm buying something today online, just need
to decide which. If I dump my bike, I just dont want to bend the crap out of
the lever/perch, in additon to hand protection.
Thanks!
--
Cory - Fenton, Michigan
92 Honda CR125
04 Kawasaki KLX-300R (Apr 2nd)
www.AlwaysJeepin.com
>Going on a 2004 Kawisaki KLX300R.
>
>I've heard horror stories about the aluminum models bending/breaking in
>busting digits...or sliding rearward and busting wrists. So I thought about
>the Acerbis Rally II's, which are tough plastic with aluminum mounting kits.
>
>I've also been directed the way of Tusk D-Flex handguards, people like em...
>
>So what do you guys recommend? I'm buying something today online, just need
>to decide which. If I dump my bike, I just dont want to bend the crap out of
>the lever/perch, in additon to hand protection.
>
>Thanks!
The plastic hand guards are a wast of money. Get yourself a good set
of aluminum hand guards. I prefer the Enduro Engineering/Moose hand
guards mainly because they come with good inner bar mounts.
Mike Baxter
Aluminum bark busters with plastic hand gaurds. If you hit a tree with
plastic only, the handgaurd can and will give way and you'll have smashed
digits and bent levers. I have yet to hit a tree hard enough with my AL
hangaurds to bust anything but my pride. I wouldn't have anything else for
woods/trail riding.
--
- Jeff
- 02 KTM200exc
- 99 WKX250
- ........................ then again, what do I know.
> The plastic hand guards are a wast of money. Get yourself a good set
> of aluminum hand guards. I prefer the Enduro Engineering/Moose hand
> guards mainly because they come with good inner bar mounts.
I second the Enduro Engineering vote. The protectors themselves are all the
same (I make my own now), but the EE inner mount is the only one I've used
to date that stays put on ProTaper bars. On a standard bar, however,
anything will work.
Jay
Agreed. And, if you hit a tree hard enough with an aluminum bark buster
enough to bend it back to "trap" your hand or fingers or whatever like these
horror stories claim, I submit your hand is probably going to be the LEAST
of your injuries. There'll be probably at least two or three in the
life-threatening category the doctors will be worried about before they even
consider a broken finger or three.
--
Andrew D. Waddell
PML Online Support Rep
www.publicmissiles.com
"-jc" <Spam...@DieSpammers.com> wrote in message
news:c4f4b8$mhi$1...@heap.juniper.net...
> Agreed. And, if you hit a tree hard enough with an aluminum bark buster
> enough to bend it back to "trap" your hand or fingers or whatever like these
> horror stories claim, I submit your hand is probably going to be the LEAST
> of your injuries. There'll be probably at least two or three in the
> life-threatening category the doctors will be worried about before they even
> consider a broken finger or three.
FWIW, I watched a friend of mine break his hand on his bark buster in the
DE enduro. He tried to jump a creek and came up a short hitting the far
bank with his front wheel. His hand came off the bar and he punched the
barkbuster and broke a couple of bones in the back of his hand.
He then rode his bike 'til it blew up and finished the race on my bike
after I ran out of energy.
Anyway, I've personally seen it happen.
I still run aluminum bark busters. I figure it's a matter of playing the
percentages. I know that without them I'd have broken a few fingers at
WUDI after I started to get tired.
Craig
>Going on a 2004 Kawisaki KLX300R.
>
>I've heard horror stories about the aluminum models bending/breaking in
>busting digits...or sliding rearward and busting wrists. So I thought about
>the Acerbis Rally II's, which are tough plastic with aluminum mounting kits.
>
>I've also been directed the way of Tusk D-Flex handguards, people like em...
>
>So what do you guys recommend? I'm buying something today online, just need
>to decide which. If I dump my bike, I just dont want to bend the crap out of
>the lever/perch, in additon to hand protection.
The plastic guards are ok for protection from roost and small
branches but will rarely make it threw one drop on a hard surface.
If you don't want to replace your levers and risk a shortened ride,
get the real thing (Bark busters or similar metal type) not the
plastic Rally II's. You'll be thanking all of us if you do. Right
after the first time you drop that 300lb KLX.
MurMan
>
>Thanks!
All plastic guards are useless...
The Acerbis guards that are plastic around aluminum work pretty well.
You do have to work a bit at keeping them tight. I suspect that any
handguard that mounts only to the handle bars is subject to move if
the impact is hard enough.
That said, the better ones will stay put in all but the worst crashes.
A mount system that ties the guard to the tripple clamps may help
prevent/limit rotation.
I think the broken wrist issue is usually the rider being thrown over
the bars, not letting go and getting caught in the guards... not the
guards rotating around to get the rider.
Some people run the bark busters too high. Set them as low as you can...
>Going on a 2004 Kawisaki KLX300R.
>
>I've heard horror stories about the aluminum models bending/breaking in
>busting digits...or sliding rearward and busting wrists. So I thought about
>the Acerbis Rally II's, which are tough plastic with aluminum mounting kits.
>
>I've also been directed the way of Tusk D-Flex handguards, people like em...
>
>So what do you guys recommend? I'm buying something today online, just need
>to decide which. If I dump my bike, I just dont want to bend the crap out of
>the lever/perch, in additon to hand protection.
>
>Thanks!
Cory,
The EE barkbusters will take a hit better than anything else.
If you get a chance, look at mine sometimes. <G> If you bend them
with a fall on the rocks, you can often pick up a rock and bend them
back out of the way.
The Acerbis Ralley Pro sets are prone to rotating under impact.
The all plastic guards will also flex inward under an impact and
then rebound off the trees. That can cause a serious vector change.
The alminum guards will actually "bust" the bark off the trees, which
further deadens the impact and somewhat lubricates the barkbuster on
it's passage by the tree.
When mounting the hadnguards, rotate them slightly downward. They
have a tendency to take impacts from an upward angle. They stay put
better when angled slightly downward. (maybe 5 degrees)
Good luck and good ridin'!
Jim
(On Deb's Computer.I'm dirtb...@sbcglobal.net)
"99 Gas Gas EC274 (Sweet Baby)
Team LAGNAF
www.smackovermotorsports.com
Third. Assuming they are clamped/tightened properly, if you hit
something hard enough to bend, break or significantly rotate them, you
will have bigger problems ahead of you.
James
00CR250
--
Cory - Fenton, Michigan
04 Kawasaki KLX-300R (Saturday)
92 Honda CR125 (For Sale)
www.AlwaysJeepin.com
"Cory S." <co...@alwaysjeepin.com> wrote in message
news:106m3n0...@corp.supernews.com...