Masking Acrylic Paint
Randy Hester
paints becasue the local hooby shop had a good color selection for
German planes. I keep having a problem with the paint peeling off
after I've masked off an area and then remove the masking tape. Is
there any way to keep this from happening? I scrubed down the model
prior to painting so it should not be due to mold release compounds.
Thanks in advance for any answers.
Regards,
Randy Hester
Ron Smith
Ron Smith
Rama Lama Whome Nawnotme
Temple of the Chartreaux, Hitchcockwise of the Pustule of Political
Sillyness
Maker of the Mysterious Black Boxes and Bender of the Sacred Tron Guides
Wayne C. Morris
> I'm new to aribrushing and started using Testors Modle Master Acryl
> paints becasue the local hooby shop had a good color selection for
> German planes. I keep having a problem with the paint peeling off
> after I've masked off an area and then remove the masking tape. Is
> there any way to keep this from happening? I scrubed down the model
> prior to painting so it should not be due to mold release compounds.
How long are you allowing the paint to dry before you put masking tape
on it? It takes at least a couple of days, possibly up to a week, for
the paint to 'cure' completely and reach full strength.
What kind of masking tape are you using? Some tapes are too sticky.
Try looking for drafting tape (looks a lot like masking tape, but is
less sticky), or masking tapes that are sold for use with plastic
models, or Post-It Notes, or Scotch Removable Transparent Tape, or
Parafilm.
If you can't find a less-sticky masking tape, reduce the stickiness of
your tape by first sticking it to your arm or hand, then transfer it to
the model.
fuknu...@my-deja.com
heres how you do it, don't keep the masking tape on for more than a
split second longer than u need to, take it off pronto! Use tamiya
masking tape or tape u first stick to your hand, takes some stick out
of it!>
--
BY PRESIDENTIAL DIRECTIVE
FUKNUCKLES
WHEN I SAY JUMP YOU DON'T ASK WHY, ONLY HOW HIGH
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
E McCann
> I'm new to aribrushing and started using Testors Modle Master Acryl
> paints becasue the local hooby shop had a good color selection for
> German planes. I keep having a problem with the paint peeling off
> after I've masked off an area and then remove the masking tape. Is
> there any way to keep this from happening? I scrubed down the model
> prior to painting so it should not be due to mold release compounds.
> Thanks in advance for any answers.
Outside of using a lower tack masking tape, there's not much I can think
of. I have the same problem, too - so I use it for large, single color
areas, and freehand camo (no masking outside of windows needed.) It's the
only annoyance I've found in some otherwise nice paints.
>
> Regards,
> Randy Hester
>
>
-E McCann
emc...@iag.net
Technical support - the postal workers of the next millenium.
Art Murray
> I'm new to aribrushing and started using Testors Modle Master Acryl
> paints becasue the local hooby shop had a good color selection for
> German planes. I keep having a problem with the paint peeling off
> after I've masked off an area and then remove the masking tape. Is
> there any way to keep this from happening? I scrubed down the model
> prior to painting so it should not be due to mold release compounds.
> Thanks in advance for any answers.
>
> Regards,
> Randy Hester
Use *drafting* tape as opposed to masking tape. It has less tack.
Art
Michael Hanlon
Tamiya masking tape. The paint lifted. I switched to drafting tape. The
paint lifted. The Acryl had been drying for a week. While I like the paint
this problem severely limits its uses. Oh well, back to PollyScale.
Mike Hanlon
Art Murray <amu...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:375710AD...@mindspring.com...
C.R. Krieger
>I'm new to aribrushing and started using Testors Modle Master Acryl
>paints becasue the local hooby shop had a good color selection for
>German planes. I keep having a problem with the paint peeling off
>after I've masked off an area and then remove the masking tape. Is
>there any way to keep this from happening? I scrubed down the model
>prior to painting so it should not be due to mold release compounds.
>Thanks in advance for any answers.
Are you sanding or priming the area first? If you're shooting paint
onto a nice, shiny, smooth plastic surface, it's no wonder it comes
off, acrylic or not.
I always at least scuff the surface with 600-1000 grit paper before
painting. And I've used acrylics for years.
--
C.R. Krieger
"Ignore 'em, m'dear; they're beneath your dignity." - W.C. Fields
Reply to warp1 at lakefield dot net
Rama Lama Dingh Dongh²
news:7j7lr0$9go$1...@news.inc.net...
> Are you sanding or priming the area first? If you're shooting paint
> onto a nice, shiny, smooth plastic surface, it's no wonder it comes
> off, acrylic or not.
>
> I always at least scuff the surface with 600-1000 grit paper before
> painting. And I've used acrylics for years.
> --
> C.R. Krieger
> "Ignore 'em, m'dear; they're beneath your dignity." - W.C. Fields
> Reply to warp1 at lakefield dot net
C.R.'s Right! Give the paint a real good "Bite" into the plastic. But Prior
to that, and right after the kit is opened, I wash the parts panels in the
dishwasher! Double strength Cascade®. Use a mesh plastic screen over the
pump though. Then it's time to really scrub the parts with a toothbrush and
Ivory® liquid. Then rinse. De-ionized water is my choice. I assembly the
model and then use 600-1000 grit wet or dry to give that rascal some tooth.
Toothbrush the cousin again, using Ivory® liquid, rinse and let dry. Shoot
it with a primer, I use an Acrylic flat white, and let it dry completely.
Apply the Acrylic paint. I've had zero problems with paint lifting under
Tamiya masking tape whatsoever.
Casey
Rama Lama Dingh Dongh²
Temple of the Dense Piney Woods
Lord of the Dense
Kirche Katy
per...@my-deja.com
right soap is VERY important. The first model I built in 15 years was
washed with a dish soap that had a hand oil additive in it. I had
problems with the Acryl paint beading up and then staying on. Now wash
the model in Sunlight dish soap (original formula) and haven't had a
problem since.
For masking, I've been using drafting tape, scotch tape (usually only on
bare plastic), low tack scotch tape (usually leaves a residue) and
liquid mask (usually only on bare plastic also). I'm currently trying
Parafilm M, so we'll see how that works out. :-)
Percy
In article
<A7FB1AE028B36850.460D6692...@library-proxy.airnew
s.net>,
ran...@ticnet.com (Randy Hester) wrote:
> I'm new to aribrushing and started using Testors Modle Master Acryl
> paints becasue the local hooby shop had a good color selection for
> German planes. I keep having a problem with the paint peeling off
> after I've masked off an area and then remove the masking tape. Is
> there any way to keep this from happening? I scrubed down the model
> prior to painting so it should not be due to mold release compounds.
> Thanks in advance for any answers.
>
> Regards,
> Randy Hester
Victor Duniec
Vic
-One who never washes his models
tro...@my-deja.com
Rub the aircraft down with a clean cloth moistened with a little
rubbing alcohol. Let it dry.
Rough up the surface a little with steel wool or a ScotchBrite pad.
If you do these things and use a low tack masking material such as
drafting tape or Parafilm, you shouldn't need to prime the surface.
I believe that the Testor Acryls and PollyScale paints are exactly the
same formulation. One should work about as well as the other.
The Testor Acryl GLOSS paints are notorious for not adhering well. I've
found that in the case of a gloss Acryl, priming with a good enamel
based primer helps a great deal.
The best water based Acrylic will not adhere as well as an oil-based
enamel.
Paolo Pizzi
>
> I'm new to aribrushing and started using Testors Modle Master Acryl
> paints becasue the local hooby shop had a good color selection for
> German planes. I keep having a problem with the paint peeling off
> after I've masked off an area and then remove the masking tape. Is
> there any way to keep this from happening? I scrubed down the model
> prior to painting so it should not be due to mold release compounds.
> Thanks in advance for any answers.
Use a primer before spraying acrylics and the paint will have
something to grip on.
Paolo Pizzi
>
> When painting an AM Yak-1, I had the same lifting problem. I started wih
> Tamiya masking tape. The paint lifted. I switched to drafting tape. The
> paint lifted. The Acryl had been drying for a week. While I like the paint
> this problem severely limits its uses. Oh well, back to PollyScale.
The problem is not the tape but what's underneath the paint.
If there is only bare plastic, chances of peeling are high.
Always use a primer before spraying acrylics. The best IMHO is
Gunze's Mr. Surfacer 1000, possibly thinned with enamel thinner
if panel lines are very petite.
Randy Hester
scrubbing down the plastic with dish soap, roughing up the surface
with scotchbrite, priming the surface with enamel, and switch to
Tamiya masking tape. If that doen't work I'll try to use only single
color paint schemes :)
Regards,
Randy Hester
Ron Smith
Paolo Pizzi wrote:
> The problem is not the tape but what's underneath the paint.
> If there is only bare plastic, chances of peeling are high.
> Always use a primer before spraying acrylics. The best IMHO is
> Gunze's Mr. Surfacer 1000, possibly thinned with enamel thinner
> if panel lines are very petite.
I *never* prime and I spray almost exclusively acrylics. No adhesion
problems here.
Peter Nebelung
<timee...@earthlink.net> wrote:
snip
>The problem is not the tape but what's underneath the paint.
>If there is only bare plastic, chances of peeling are high.
>Always use a primer before spraying acrylics. The best IMHO is
>Gunze's Mr. Surfacer 1000, possibly thinned with enamel thinner
>if panel lines are very petite.
Hey Paulo; isn't Mr Surfacer a lacquer based primer? I've been
thinning it for several years with lacquer thinner with no ill
effects.
Peter
Paolo Pizzi
> I *never* prime and I spray almost exclusively acrylics. No adhesion
> problems here.
Well, you'll never have to rough up the surface if you use a primer.
That's pretty much the same amount of work.
Paolo Pizzi
> Hey Paulo; isn't Mr Surfacer a lacquer based primer? I've been
> thinning it for several years with lacquer thinner with no ill
> effects.
I think you can use any type except acrylic thinners.
Gunze's own Mr. Color Thinner works perfectly.
William H. Shuey
>
> On Sat, 05 Jun 1999 06:15:39 -0700, Paolo Pizzi
> <timee...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> snip
> >The problem is not the tape but what's underneath the paint.
> >If there is only bare plastic, chances of peeling are high.
> >Always use a primer before spraying acrylics. The best IMHO is
> >Gunze's Mr. Surfacer 1000, possibly thinned with enamel thinner
> >if panel lines are very petite.
>
> thinning it for several years with lacquer thinner with no ill
> effects.
>
Interesting thought! My favorite primer for years has been Pactra Flat
White thinned with laquer thinner. Pactra was gobbled up by Testor's and
I bought all the Pactra paints I could find, but I'm just about out of
the flat white and flat grey.
The laquer thinner gave the paint some "bite" and virtually
anything I painted over it could be masked and sprayed over. Only limit
to this method was if I wanted to do a natural metal finish. For that
there is no escaping it, you need a glossy undercoat. I have tried a
couple of things but I haven't found one that has the same surface grab
as the flat paint thinned with laquer thinner.
Bill Shuey
Ron Smith
surface unless I do a rescribe and thus alots of sanding. You flat out
don't have to do anything special for most acrylics, at least I
don't.........maybe I get lucky and buy only the bottles with no
adhesion/masking/spraying problems? If you have any doubts about my
oaint jobs, Al Cherer was in the shop today and may have seen the F4-G,
Me-262, P-39, Albatros DVa or Mossie in the display cases or the FJ1
Fury on the front table or the B-25B hanging in the back room. Joe
hegeuds works there and can vouch for them and Sunil Gupta has seen my
work at meetings and Model Classic......ask any of them if there appears
to be a problem on my models.....the only one any of them have seen that
got special treatment prior to painting would be the NMF F-84G.
Ron Smith
E McCann
> Michael Hanlon wrote:
> >
> > When painting an AM Yak-1, I had the same lifting problem. I started wih
> > Tamiya masking tape. The paint lifted. I switched to drafting tape. The
> > paint lifted. The Acryl had been drying for a week. While I like the paint
> > this problem severely limits its uses. Oh well, back to PollyScale.
>
> The problem is not the tape but what's underneath the paint.
> If there is only bare plastic, chances of peeling are high.
> Always use a primer before spraying acrylics. The best IMHO is
The thing is, we've seen a lot of this specifically about MM Acryl paints.
I haven't had this sort of problem with Gunze Sangyo sprayed straight from
the bottle.
I'll buy that MM Acryl may need priming. No argument. Now if I could only
*FIND* Mr. Surfacer. (Or maybe MM's own primer, though I've only seen it
in a spraycan.)
Michael Hanlon
and Aeromaster. None has ever lifted like Acryl did. Also, I was using
Tamiya masking tape which is better than drafting tape. After the Tamiya
masking tape lifted the paint, I tried drafting tape. Same story, lifted
the paint like crazy.
I haven't tried priming a model before using Acryl, but since it isn't
necesssary for PollyScale or any of the other acrylics, I don't see the
point of going through an extra step just to use a paint that might lift
anyway.
Mike Hanlon (Lazy Modeler)
E McCann <emc...@iag.net> wrote in message
news:Pine.GSO.3.96.990605...@shell.iag.net...
Dudley
Michael Hanlon <mha...@megsinet.net> wrote in article
<jTl63.185$sH4...@news.megsinet.net>...
> I have used acrylics almost exclusively. Tamiya, Pactra, Gunze,
PollyScale,
> and Aeromaster. None has ever lifted like Acryl did. Also, I was using
> Tamiya masking tape which is better than drafting tape. After the Tamiya
> masking tape lifted the paint, I tried drafting tape. Same story,
lifted
> the paint like crazy.
>
> I haven't tried priming a model before using Acryl, but since it isn't
> necesssary for PollyScale or any of the other acrylics, I don't see the
> point of going through an extra step just to use a paint that might lift
> anyway.
>
> Mike Hanlon (Lazy Modeler)
I'm very disappointed in MM Acryl right now. I have had some lifting
problems but tonight I nearly had my P-51 trashed and if I was building for
competition it would be over. I'm Building Petie 2 w/ SnJ finish. Well I
painted the nose blue last week and tonight I went to put the exhaust
manifolds in and scratched the paint. No problem just a quick mask w/
parafilm and I'll do a touch up. I did the quick touch up and when I lifted
the film it took a good chunk of the blue nose with it. I've now repainted
and it looks ok but not as nice as it did. I may trash this stuff and go
to Polly S (I know people have said it's the same stuff but I'm not sure
now.) Anyway I'm am NOT HAPPY!
Dudley
Ticked Off in North Idaho
Bruce Burden
: Now if I could only *FIND* Mr. Surfacer.
:
Mr. Surfacer is imported by Marco Polo. Any hobby shop
that carries Hasagawa should be able to order Mr. Surfacer.
Otherwise, M&Models (see their ad in Fine Scale Modeler)
carry Mr. Surfacer, as I am sure others do.
Bruce
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
"I like bad!" Bruce Burden Austin, TX.
- Thuganlitha
The Power and the Prophet
Robert Don Hughes
Bruce Burden
:
: I may trash this stuff and go to Polly S
:
I didn't wash or primer the wheels on my 1/72 Hasagawa
scout car, painted it with Polly Scale Scale Black, and about
a week later ungently peeled the masking tape off (store bought
masking tape, nothing special). I didn't have any problems
with lifting, I am happy to say.
Paolo Pizzi
> I haven't tried priming a model before using Acryl, but since it isn't
> necesssary for PollyScale or any of the other acrylics, I don't see the
> point of going through an extra step just to use a paint that might lift
> anyway.
Well, apart from offering a better grip to the paint, the main point
of priming is to spot surface imperfections and seams that may appear
OK but in fact are still be visible once the model is primed. In that
case you just fix the problem and re-prime locally until the seam
disappears. I'd really hate to discover such a problem after I've
painted the model...
Another good point for priming is to cover all surfaces with a light,
neutral color. Especially important if the plastic is black, yellow
or other weird colors. Of course if the plastic is black and you're
painting a night fighter, a white primer would not be as desirable. <g>
Paolo Pizzi
> I may trash this stuff and go to Polly S (I know people have said
> it's the same stuff but I'm not sure now.) Anyway I'm am NOT HAPPY!
Acryl is definitely NOT the same as Polly Scale.
For start, it smells VERY different and the texture is different.
Try handbrushing on a piece of scrap plastic with Acryl and
Polly Scale. No matter how good is your handbrushing, Acryl always
leaves brush marks, Polly Scale doesn't. Can't be the same stuff.
Now, if you mean the old, discountinued Polly S, maybe. I've never
liked it.
ArSeeEn
>surface unless I do a rescribe and thus alots of sanding.
I have to second Ron's comment, and take it further.
I've been using acrylics since the early eighties, and I've never done any
suface prep short of a cursory wipe-down with alcohol just prior to squirting
paint. I've never had an adhesion problem, even with the old Polly-S! I do
try to use low-tack masking agents where possible--Post-it notes, lo-tack
drafting tape, wet paper, etc.
I understand that 3M is now marketing correction tape with the same lo-tack
adhesive used on Post-it notes--try office supply stores, I haven't really
looked yet.
Even further, I have never had an acrylic paint job crack on me either--Maybe I
don't use Tamiya Color enough.....
The only "solvent"-based paint I use is Floquil Old Silver for NMF......
HTH, and good luck!
Ralph Nardone
IPMS(USA) 33984
Doctor, General, President, and Dictator-For-Life, IPMS/Flight 19
"Here's the everlasting rub : neither am I good nor bad.
I'd give up my halo for a horn and the horn for the hat I once had."
--- Ian Anderson
Bruce Burden
: or other weird colors. Of course if the plastic is black and you're
: painting a night fighter, a white primer would not be as desirable. <g>
:
I don't think I would want a white primer. I have found
few things hide flaws better than white plastic. Now I realize
most white plastic is shiney, and white primer is flat, but
I perfer a light gray primer.
However, you still have to look for problems to see them...
David Redmond
>Michael Hanlon wrote:
>>
>> When painting an AM Yak-1, I had the same lifting problem. I started wih
>> Tamiya masking tape. The paint lifted. I switched to drafting tape. The
>> paint lifted. The Acryl had been drying for a week. While I like the paint
>> this problem severely limits its uses. Oh well, back to PollyScale.
>
>The problem is not the tape but what's underneath the paint.
>If there is only bare plastic, chances of peeling are high.
>Always use a primer before spraying acrylics. The best IMHO is
>Gunze's Mr. Surfacer 1000, possibly thinned with enamel thinner
>if panel lines are very petite.
>
While scale modellers might not find the color selection they like in
Badger modelFlex I have to say that this is one paint on which I have
NEVER had a lift off problem with masking tape after painting direct
on plastic. Colors are mainly for model railroad, but people might
want to try it out.
Opinions expressed herein are my own and may not represent those of my employer.
TCampbell3
I'm also new to airbrushing and have been using Tamiya acrylics.
I primed the model with standard automotive primer (with excellent results) and
then sprayed the acrylic (thinned with denatured alcohol).
I have masked over this within a few hours using Tamiya masking tape (6mm wide)
for the edges and then going with Scotch "Magic" tape from there on. I haven't
had any problems as yet.
I know that doesn't help you directly, but that's what's been working for me.
Regards,
Tim