Tamiya Spray Paint Alternatives?
danrendar
be?
TS-26 - Pure White (Gloss White, Model Master's Classic White?)
TS-39 - Mica Red (?!)
TS-49 - Brilliant Red (Gloss Red?)
TS-21 - Gold (Model Master's Champagne Gold Metallic?)
I've heard things about Krylon/plastikote car lacquers, what
advantages do they offer, what precautions, etc.? I'm mainly using
them for cars.
Also, how long does it take for Tamiya acrylic's to generally cure?
Thanks
Ksu93dlv
Remarkably quickly - Within an hour or so. As for your first question about
spray paint, I'm afraid I can't help you there.
David Roberts
I generally spray the paint into a glass jar, and then spray it through my
airbrush (no thinning required).
This way the paint goes where I want it (onto the model) and in the
quantities (an even coat without drips and runs).
This probably applies to all spray paints, and is only useful advice if you
have access to an airbrush (which you will need anyway if you want to try
using acrylics on car bodies)
The Tamiya spray lacquer itself is nicer for car modeling than the acrylic
paints, harder and less prone to finger marks or wear & tear.
"danrendar" <kai...@home.com> wrote in message
news:e3982dd5.02011...@posting.google.com...
Greg Plummer
although they are dry to the touch in half an hour. If you use Tamiya
clear over another color, you must wait untill the first color fully
cures or the results are not good.
I've used Plastikote and Duplicolor automotive sprays for many paint
jobs. Just use at least a couple of coats of their respective primer
first to protect the plastic(apply it in several light coats). Also
it's a good idea to polish the primer before applying the color coat.
Then apply their clear coat over the color paint and polish that when
dry. The colors available are quite nice and give good results; just
expect to do a lot of polishing as they do not go on glass smooth.
I've never used Krylon - their colors are just a little too wierd.
As to your first question - like any other paint brand it is difficult
to exactly match Tamiya colors as they are, well, Tamiya's colors.
However, Testors gloss white, or any other straight white, will come
pretty darn close to Tamiya's pure white. Tamiya's racing white, by
the way, is noticeably cream colored. Mica Red is a deep pearlesent
red - look around for that. Brilliant red is close to Testors'
Italian red, maybe with a little yellow in it. Testor's regular Gold
is close to Tamiya Gold; Testors champagne gold is too brown, too
translucent, and out of production.
Anyway, I use any color I like when painting street cars - no one can
call it incorrect afterall (it's custom paint!) There are several
companies making exact paint colors (MCW Automotive Finishes for
example) so for making replicas paint choice shouldn't be a problem if
you know the original color. I find making a smooth glossy paint job
and getting the details right is more important than correct color;
this ain't aircraft modeling afterall...;)
HTH, Greg Plummer
danrendar
> Last question first, Tamiya sprays actually take weeks to fully cure,
> although they are dry to the touch in half an hour. If you use Tamiya
> clear over another color, you must wait untill the first color fully
> cures or the results are not good.
Yes, I know this from reading Scale Auto's latest guide on Spray
Painting model car bodies. I was referring to Tamiya Acrylics from the
paint jar, which dry very quickly, but still are susceptible to
fingerprints 24 hours later after application.
> I've used Plastikote and Duplicolor automotive sprays for many paint
> jobs. Just use at least a couple of coats of their respective primer
> first to protect the plastic(apply it in several light coats). Also
> it's a good idea to polish the primer before applying the color coat.
> Then apply their clear coat over the color paint and polish that when
> dry. The colors available are quite nice and give good results; just
> expect to do a lot of polishing as they do not go on glass smooth.
Do you recommend any specific polishing kits/sanding grits? I've only
been able to get 2000 from my local auto store. The article in Scale
Auto uses a polishing kit from 3500-12000 (!).
> I've never used Krylon - their colors are just a little too wierd.
> As to your first question - like any other paint brand it is difficult
> to exactly match Tamiya colors as they are, well, Tamiya's colors.
> However, Testors gloss white, or any other straight white, will come
> pretty darn close to Tamiya's pure white. Tamiya's racing white, by
> the way, is noticeably cream colored. Mica Red is a deep pearlesent
> red - look around for that. Brilliant red is close to Testors'
> Italian red, maybe with a little yellow in it. Testor's regular Gold
> is close to Tamiya Gold; Testors champagne gold is too brown, too
> translucent, and out of production.
Thanks!
> Anyway, I use any color I like when painting street cars - no one can
> call it incorrect afterall (it's custom paint!) There are several
> companies making exact paint colors (MCW Automotive Finishes for
> example) so for making replicas paint choice shouldn't be a problem if
> you know the original color. I find making a smooth glossy paint job
> and getting the details right is more important than correct color;
> this ain't aircraft modeling afterall...;)
> HTH, Greg Plummer
Well, I'm modelling a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VI WRC Version, so correct
color matches are definitely necessary ;). Since none of my local
shops carry Tamiya Sprays, I will have to order them online,then.
Al Superczynski
wrote:
>Tamiya sprays actually take weeks to fully cure,
>although they are dry to the touch in half an hour.
Aren't the TS sprays lacquer based? If so, why would they take
so long to cure?
--
Al Superczynski, MFE, IPMS/USA #3795, continuous since 1968
My "From" address is munged - click "Reply To" to respond via email.
Check out my want and disposal lists at "Al's Place":
http://apollo.up-link.net/~modeleral
"Build what YOU like, the way YOU want to,
and the critics will flame you every time."
Scott Truesdell
kai...@home.com (danrendar) wrote:
> I was referring to Tamiya Acrylics from the
> paint jar, which dry very quickly, but still are susceptible to
> fingerprints 24 hours later after application.
24 hours? 24 days, more often than not.
The thinned and airbrushed Tamiya bottled acrylics take a very long time
to fully cure but when they finally do they are pretty tough and glossy.
I've picked one up weeks later and left indented fingerprints which, a few
hours later, flattened back out! Paint - leave alone for a month - then
detail paint and BMF.
I am experimenting with adding some Createx Bond-All to the Tamiya bottle
acrylics. It is a two-part catalized acrylic thinner. Also, thinning with
a little Future might harden the cure. But I have had good success just
spraying the regularly thinned acrylic, waiting a month, then hitting it
with some good coats of Future, which cures very hard and durable. If you
don't wait a month you may ruin the paint.
> Do you recommend any specific polishing kits/sanding grits? I've only
> been able to get 2000 from my local auto store. The article in Scale
> Auto uses a polishing kit from 3500-12000 (!).
This is the system of cushioned abrasives manufactured by Micro-Surfaces
and retailed by several sources in the hobby and beauty industries. Their
grit scheme is not the same 220 - 320 - 400 - 600 scheme we're used to.
The only scheme I really trust is when they state the grit sizes in
microns. Some industrial supplier catalogs (Airgas, Grainger...) have
conversion charts.
Micro-Mark (http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/) has all the sanding and
polishing stuff you're likely to need. They are not the dead-ass cheapest,
but neither are they a rip-off. Their printed catalog makes a wonderful
coffeetable book! :) While you're at it, pick up the "U"-shaped
FlexiFile with some extra strips.
> Well, I'm modelling a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VI WRC Version, so correct
> color matches are definitely necessary ;).
I commend you in your choice of modelling subjects!
I am just finishing up Groenholm's 2000 WRChampion Peugeot and it is
turning out quite well. I've used BMF on things like fire-extinguisher
straps, fuel cell access ports, and strut shafts. Also, BMF makes very
acceptable quick-n-easy hose clamps.
On deck is Burn's 2001 WRChampion Subaru.
Then there is my quiver of Minis in-process production line. The Tamiya
Minis are more detailed than their WRC cars. Oh... and a LOT smaller!
I wouldn't sweat the exact colors. Any reasonably bright red and untinted
white is really good enough. Way better to be slightly off in color with a
glass-smooth surface than the other way 'round. I think.
--scot
--
Thanks to the spammers, you will need to remove the hot dog in my address to send me email.
Mike Kucaba
caution,however or not all with resin.
--
Mike "KOOKABA " Kucaba
Willow Springs, IL U.S.A.
I thought I remembered that...then I remembered to forget that.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/modelcarbuilder/
"Scott Truesdell" <true...@uci.weener.edu> wrote in message
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