Painting w/o an airbrush
Chad
Greetings,
Can someone give me some tips on how to paint without using an airbrush? I
feel it is harder without one although I've never started yet. How hard can
it be?
Hopefully, within this week I'll be getting a good model and some tools to
get started.
Chad
EGMcCann
1. Get *good* brushes. Sure, you might get a good (ish) finish with the
nylon Testors things... I have once or twice... but better brushes will
help.
2. Practice, practice, practice - not just in the brushing, but in thinning
and mixing of paint.
3. Let the paint dry fully.
Some folks get *very* nice finishes with brushes as opposed to airbrushes.
I'm not normally *one* of them, but it can be done :)
"Chad" <darks...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:c42r49$2dmfak$1...@ID-134513.news.uni-berlin.de...
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Klm
wrote:
If you are not trying to get an automotive high gloss type finish but
love the heavily used military equipment appearance go for Artists
tube acrylics.
The artists's tube acrylics in particular have just the right kind of
reflectance that is neither too glossy or too matte. It also shrinks
beautifully to stretch-smooth out the brush strokes that would have
been visible had brushed on hobby (eg. Tamiya) acrylics. One tube
should last you just about forever. So at just under $10 per tube
they are a real bargain.
Also stock up on the crafts acrylics from the Dollar Store. These are
best for the primary colors (Black and white, the reds, yellows,
greens and blues); and the browns and earth colors for weathering and
diaromas because they are cheap and perfectly useable.
If the correct shade of military is important to you brush on the
correct Tamiya military colour first and never mind the brush marks.
Then weather with dry brushed white in the raised parts and corners.
With a few models you'll get real good at weathering, including
"muddying" the model.
Apply the decals, touch up with a bit of weathering over the decals.
This can be as simple as lightly wiping a muddy color over the decal.
Once that is done give the whole painted model a coat of Acrylic
Extender (or Acrylic Retarder- same thing) available from the Artists
Supply Shop. Its a clear mousse like gel and one coat of this makes
your model look like a professional job.
I hardly use my airbrushes anymore because brush painting gives a much
more realistic "used" finish the airbrush cannot. My airbrush is used
only when there is a large area to cover or the model has a lot of
unreachable crevices (as in softskin vehicle chassis assemblies.)
Don Stauffer
finish with a brush than to learn to use an airbrush. I applaud those I
know who have acquired this skill. You did not say what type of models
you are working with. If military models, with flat finish, this is
easier. If you are doing car models, it takes a LOT of practice before
you can make a really smooth, yet really glossy finish. Tips by McCann
previously posted are very good, a good start.
--
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
stau...@usfamily.net
webpage- http://www.usfamily.net/web/stauffer
Chad
> reflectance that is neither too glossy or too matte. It also shrinks
> beautifully to stretch-smooth out the brush strokes that would have
> been visible had brushed on hobby (eg. Tamiya) acrylics. One tube
> should last you just about forever. So at just under $10 per tube
> they are a real bargain.
I have no idea what this stuff looks like. Do you have a picture of it?
> Apply the decals, touch up with a bit of weathering over the decals.
> This can be as simple as lightly wiping a muddy color over the decal.
I'd have to wonder with my limited knowledge: Shouldn't this require that we
smooth the surface first before applying the decals? If there were brush
strokes then that means applying decals would result in air pockets
underneath. :/
> Once that is done give the whole painted model a coat of Acrylic
> Extender (or Acrylic Retarder- same thing) available from the Artists
> Supply Shop. Its a clear mousse like gel and one coat of this makes
> your model look like a professional job.
Again, I would like to know what this looks like. Sorry. You're talking to a
newbie here. ;)
Thanks.
Chad
Klm
wrote:
>> The artists's tube acrylics in particular have just the right kind of
>> reflectance that is neither too glossy or too matte. It also shrinks
>> beautifully to stretch-smooth out the brush strokes that would have
>> been visible had brushed on hobby (eg. Tamiya) acrylics. One tube
>> should last you just about forever. So at just under $10 per tube
>> they are a real bargain.
>
>I have no idea what this stuff looks like. Do you have a picture of it?
Go to any artists supply shop and ask for acrylic paint. This is the
ordinary acrylic paint that comes in a 60 ml toothpaste tube. The
three common brands are
Liquitex http://store.artsuppliesdirect.com/liac.html
Stevenson http://www.artpaintonline.com/acr-paints1.html
Golden http://www.goldenpaints.com/products/medsadds/index.php
I started with black and white. Black because the thick artists paint
covered the tire rubber very well and the dried paint actually looks
like rubber. White because Tamiya white is notoriously had to cover a
model satisfactorily without applying several airbrushed coats and
therefore use up the whole bottle for a single area. Also the thick
white artists paint is easy to remove from the brush for the dry brush
technique. Tamiya white would only smear the model and Tamiya dries
too fast on the brush anyway for applying dry brushing techniques.
Look up the URL write-ups on dry brushing techniques.
Then I got bolder and bought the "earth" colors like burnt sienna,
umber, burnt umber, etc. and tried weathering. That gave me the
experience and the incentive to move into artists acrylics.
Since you are a beginner skip the artists tube paints at this learning
stage. Its a lot easier and cheaper to use Crafts Acrylic paints from
the Dollar Store. I can never remember the paint brands and that's
not important anyway.
If you are doing military models, in particular armor, just get the
closest color match in Crafts Acrylics. Because they are dirt cheap
you may find it worthwhile and have the courage to mix your own
colors. Real equipment, with use are never exact color matches
anyway. Paint your model with that and you will get a good feel of
brush painting with acrylics that won't cost you your grocery budget.
>
>> Apply the decals, touch up with a bit of weathering over the decals.
>> This can be as simple as lightly wiping a muddy color over the decal.
>
>I'd have to wonder with my limited knowledge: Shouldn't this require that we
>smooth the surface first before applying the decals? If there were brush
>strokes then that means applying decals would result in air pockets
>underneath. :/
Just go and do it. The brush strokes may look unsightly but should
not affect the application of the decals. Ignore the brush strokes
assuming you have a military model. In fact if you have the eye to
simulate the real thing, you can use the brush strokes to look like
the swirls and scratches accummulated on real equipment in the field.
Buy your brushes from the Dollar Store. A pack of soft brushes is
actually only a dollar. Another dollar will also get you a pack of
stiff brushes to be used for dry brushing.
The only painting I cannot do with a brush is the fine muddy mist on
the lower chassis and the windshield of vehicles. Airbrush that.
The best idea of what a well used armor model should look like get a
book with color paintings and use that as the guide. The artist used
paint storkes to create the illusion of a three dimensional object in
its natural environment. Forget about making a pristine museum
quality model with the exact equipment that comes only with pricey
photoetched parts that will never be seem on the finished model.
I like to imagine my models had been trashed in service. Then I go
on to make dioramas which is a lot more fun.
>
>> Once that is done give the whole painted model a coat of Acrylic
>> Extender (or Acrylic Retarder- same thing) available from the Artists
>> Supply Shop. Its a clear mousse like gel and one coat of this makes
>> your model look like a professional job.
The acrylic retarder is a "must have" for any model painting job. See
Golden Paints line at
http://www.goldenpaints.com/products/medsadds/additives/additives.php
for the retarder. The shops in my city carry only this Golden line
but the other art suppllies brands should have something similar.
Just ask for this Acrylic Retarder at the shop and you can't go wrong.
Slap it, ok brush it on your finished painted model and view the
results. You'll be amazed how it covers up all your brush stoke
mistakes and make the model look good.
You will find that your hobby acrylics and all acrylics mix well with
the retarder (a thin mousse like gel.) It acts as a paint thinner and
the thinned paint adheres well to your model. It won't run like paint
over thinned with water.
One more trick in weathering. Say when your (real) car's paintwork
has a scratch. It looks white and yet has the color of the original
paint that you will never be able to reproduce by mixing with the
original colour. For example scratched red paint will have a white
scratch line with a reddish tinge. Red + white paint = shocking pink.
To reproduce the white scratch with a red tinge effect on your model,
(or when you have overused white drybrush to highlight,) thin the
original color with retarder and brush over the simulated white
scratch or drybrushed white.
>
>Again, I would like to know what this looks like. Sorry. You're talking to a
>newbie here. ;)
>
Go for it. Modelling is fun and one of the few things left in life
that one can complete by oneself on one's own time.
EGMcCann
> I'd have to wonder with my limited knowledge: Shouldn't this require that
we
> smooth the surface first before applying the decals? If there were brush
> strokes then that means applying decals would result in air pockets
> underneath. :/
If you're getting brush strokes, either you're not thinning enough, the
brush needs cleaning, or you're going over the prior coat too soon and
"pulling" it.
AFisherJr
let color coat dry first?
Al Fisher
afis...@aol.com
Klm
Let the color coat dry first. The beauty of cheap Dollar Store
acrylic paints and the better quality artists paint is that they dry
quite quickly. The model can be handled within 10 minutes and painted
over within 15 minutes. The acrylic retarder can be applied over the
model then.
With a bit of practice and experimentation you may even take advantage
of the wet paint to feather edge or blend color shades of the same or
"weather colors" to give better visual effects. This is because
these paints don't run like Hobby acrylics.
I had earlier advised modellers to use artists illustrations as a
guide to painting your model, to get the best ideas for highlighting
features to achieve the 3D effect. Comic books are a good reference
source too. Notice the liberal use of white to represent refelcted
light. I haven't tried to use black to deepen the shadows yet So my
models look like they have been somewhat bleached in strong sunlight
and posed in the open.
If you don't like your work and want to start over just wash the model
in alcohol solvent from the hardware store. Use a stiff brush to
rmove the loosened "skin."
Thinned acrylic retarder can also be use as the adhesive when applying
decals. The decal's plastic gloss and trapped air bubbles will
disappear and the decal will look as if it had been painted on.
Chad
airbrushes?
EGMcCann
Overall single color, or large areas of color? Sure, they can work. Keep the
nozzle clean, and soak the can in warm water beforehand.
"Chad" <darks...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:c4791r$2fi0na$1...@ID-134513.news.uni-berlin.de...
> What's everybody's take on spray paint cans? Is it a better alternative to
> airbrushes?
>
>
Rob Grinberg
RobG
Klm <klm...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0gqc60t51ffva6eqe...@4ax.com...
Modelling is ... one of the few things left in life
Rob Grinberg
rattle-cans. High gloss, smooth finish and a thin coat - good stuff. I've
also used their natural metal aircraft paint range in spraytins, with the
same result as above. Be warned, though - the paint layer dries out very
thin, so the surface needs to be as smooth as possible, or all the scratches
will show up.
RobG
Chad <darks...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:c4791r$2fi0na$1...@ID-134513.news.uni-berlin.de...
Chad
paints yet coz I'm still saving up for the next batch of expenses on this
project. I simploy bought the model, Tamiya cement and a tamiya paintbrush.
I was short on cash so I decided to come back for the paints at a later
time.
I did step one of the every tutorial I read, which resist the urge to
assemble the model without understanding the manual. hehehe...
There's one thing I don't understand on the manual though. It's regarding
the painting of the parts. I saw something like XF-1:1 + XF-2:1. What does
this mean? My first interpretation was to mix it. Is this correct?
"Rob Grinberg" <r_gri...@mackay.net.au> wrote in message
news:40679...@news.chariot.net.au...
Klm
wrote:
>I recently bought a Tamiya 1/24 scale of a Mazda RX7 R1 sports car. No
>paints
You should have clued us in on the type of model you want to paint
from the beginning. You want something high gloss and smooth I
believe.
Again go to the Dollar Store and look for nail polish and fine paint
brushes the girls use to apply cosmetics. Pick a real nice color you
want. Practice using colored nail polish on a piece of scrap plastic.
If clueless bimbos can paint their nails flawlessly so can you (paint
your car model.) The solvent for nail polish is acetone that you can
buy quite cheaply from the hardware store. If required thin your nail
polish until you can brush it on a piece of scrap plastic and be happy
with the result.
This is very IMPORTANT. Acetone dissolves plastic and if nail poilsh
is applied directly on styrene plastic it might turn to goo. So go
buy a can of spray paint undercoat. I like the one that has the
color of red rust. Cover the plastic model throughly with this
undercoat to form a protective coat. Then do your nail polish thing.
Do not glue your clear parts until the painting is done and dry.
Otherwise the acetone solvent fumes will fog them.
Al Superczynski
>You should have clued us in on the type of model you want to paint
>from the beginning. You want something high gloss and smooth I
>believe.
>
>Again go to the Dollar Store and look for nail polish...
While nail polishes can be airbrushed quite successfully they dry
*much* too quickly to hand brush something as large as a 1/24 scale
car body. Spray cans are a viable alternative to airbrushing for car
models. The Tamiya TS series is ideal and should be readily available
to the original poster who is in the Philippines IIRC.
--
Al Superczynski, MFE, IPMS/USA #3795, continuous since 1968
My "From" address is munged - click "Reply To" to respond via email.
Check out my want lists and eBay listings at "Al's Place":
http://www.network54.com/realm/modeleral/
"Build what YOU like, the way YOU want to,
and the critics will flame you every time."
Al Superczynski
wrote:
>There's one thing I don't understand on the manual though. It's regarding
>the painting of the parts. I saw something like XF-1:1 + XF-2:1. What does
>this mean? My first interpretation was to mix it. Is this correct?
Yes, it means to mix those two colors in a one-to-one ratio.
Klm
>
>This is very IMPORTANT. Acetone dissolves plastic and if nail poilsh
>is applied directly on styrene plastic it might turn to goo. So go
>buy a can of spray paint undercoat. I like the one that has the
>color of red rust. Cover the plastic model throughly with this
>undercoat to form a protective coat. Then do your nail polish thing.
>
>Do not glue your clear parts until the painting is done and dry.
>Otherwise the acetone solvent fumes will fog them.
I forgot about this alternative. After spraying on undercoating to
isolate the plastic from unsuitable solvents - acetone or just
ordinary laquer thinner - you can use ordinary spray-can automotive
touch-up paint to paint your model. Since you are a beginner modeller
this automotive touch up paint should get you a pretty good paint job
for the bodywork without too much effort or cost. For painting the
trim, eg black for the rubber tires, use the Dollar Store craft
acrylics.
Chad
> You should have clued us in on the type of model you want to paint
> from the beginning. You want something high gloss and smooth I
> believe.
Actually, I just bought it but I have no plans with it yet as I am still
reading the instructions. I just bought a model to see what I have to expect
from this brand as the local store ONLY sells Tamiya products.
I haven't bought the paints as I am still gathering info on you guys.
I already have my first hand frustrations of the damn thing as I have tried
putting the first two parts together with cement and there are very visible
seams plus the parts don't line up correctly. Sanding and filing, then?
The model had 3 color recommendations. black, vintage red, and a sport
yellow. I'm going for the red but the plastic is black. Does it require that
I have to paint a neutral color first?
Also I have read in the instruction about colors. I saw something like
Chad
Aww! Do I have to paint the tires too?! :( I was under the impression that
the tires is left "as is". Mommy, make it stop! lol!
Klm
wrote:
>> for the bodywork without too much effort or cost. For painting the
>> trim, eg black for the rubber tires, use the Dollar Store craft
>> acrylics.
>
>Aww! Do I have to paint the tires too?! :( I was under the impression that
>the tires is left "as is". Mommy, make it stop! lol!
>
Chad,
What have you spent? $20, $30? I have a feeling that you are playing
us along, aka a troll. If you have so much fear assembling your first
model I suggest you find something else less stressful as a hobby.
Otherwise just go and do it and stop coming back with your whining.
Al Superczynski
wrote:
>Do I have to paint the tires too?! :(
On a model car? Not usually, and certainly not those in a Tamiya
car kit.
Al Superczynski
wrote:
>I already have my first hand frustrations of the damn thing as I have tried
>putting the first two parts together with cement and there are very visible
>seams plus the parts don't line up correctly. Sanding and filing, then?
Are you *sure* you have a Tamiya kit?? Parts fit is rarely an
issue with Tamiya. That said, if they don't fit you get to fix it....
>The model had 3 color recommendations. black, vintage red, and a sport
>yellow. I'm going for the red but the plastic is black. Does it require that
>I have to paint a neutral color first?
Yes. Tamiya's white spray primer would be perfect.
>Also I have read in the instruction about colors. I saw something like
>XF-1:1 + XF-2:1. What does
>this mean? My first interpretation was to mix it. Is this correct?
I answered this yesterday but perhaps my response hasn't shown up
on your news server yet. You are correct - the instructions are
calling for mixing the colors in a one-to-one ratio.
Have you read the newsgroups FAQ yet?
http://www.ninfinger.org/~sven/models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.1.html
Klm
<mode...@deadspam.com> wrote:
>I recently bought a Tamiya 1/24 scale of a Mazda RX7 R1 sports car. No
>paints yet coz I'm still saving up for the next batch of expenses on this
>project. I simploy bought the model, Tamiya cement and a tamiya paintbrush.
>I was short on cash so I decided to come back for the paints at a later
>time.
>
>I did step one of the every tutorial I read, which resist the urge to
>assemble the model without understanding the manual. hehehe...
>I already have my first hand frustrations of the damn thing as I have tried
>putting the first two parts together with cement and there are very visible
>seams plus the parts don't line up correctly. Sanding and filing, then?
> Are you *sure* you have a Tamiya kit?? Parts fit is rarely an
>issue with Tamiya. That said, if they don't fit you get to fix it....
>
Careful Al and all. You (Al) have already spotted where our friend
Chad is heading.
His type usually poses as the eager innocent in a guy things like
hobbies, home repairs, electronics. He comes in with a seemingly
valid problem but provides the barest details and usually a fuzzy
objective that a true innocent seeking a solution would have clearly
stated. Then depending on who bites he will ask the next question
that is slightly off what the main thrust of the replies. He will in
the meantime feed just enough details (eg Tamiya Mazda RX7 R1) that
are true to string you along. At this point he will also drop clues
that he doesn't actually have the item, in this case his "model parts"
do not fit. He totally ignores the earlier solutions to his "lack of
money" for Dollar Store paint supplies cuz that would cut off his fun.
Ask yourself if a guy who is all thumbs, is trying to assemble his
first model and has a budget problem will insist on using only Tamiya
paints? Not only that he is is going to mix the paints as well.
Your antennae should be buzzing out of their sockets by now.
The last time someone like him had a run was a problem on how to save
on his electricity bills. His question was for home installed
auxiliary power supply equipment. He posed as a guy who does computer
animation graphics from his home, spoke very knowledgeably about it,
and has more that $100,000 of computer equipment that he needed to run
24/7 and could't shut them down because it would take hours to restore
his work in progress. His monthly power bill was just over $200 and
he needed to reduce that expense.
Larry D. Farrell
>I already have my first hand frustrations of the damn thing as I have tried
>putting the first two parts together with cement and there are very visible
>seams plus the parts don't line up correctly. Sanding and filing, then?
>
>
Then you have done something wrong. You said earlier that this is a
Tamiya and I have yet to see a Tamiya kit where parts did not line up
correctly.
Chad
Otherwise, stop answering my questions if it's bothering you!
Don't ruin everyone else's mojo just because you THINK you know what's going
on.
I don't live in your paradise! Just because scale models in your area costs
dirt cheap doesn't mean I can afford it here. I'm lucky I even had the
budget to buy one and finally get started.
I guess with that kind of attitude of yours the material of this hobby
really suits you very well - PLASTIC!
Chad
United States!
Chad
"Al Superczynski" <mode...@deadspam.com> wrote in message
news:jgrk60h3b8dv1kjr9...@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 09:26:10 +0800, "Chad" <darks...@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >Do I have to paint the tires too?! :(
>
> On a model car? Not usually, and certainly not those in a Tamiya
> car kit.
> --
I thought so. The tires looked real enough to me.
Chad
> On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 09:13:38 +0800, "Chad" <darks...@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> Are you *sure* you have a Tamiya kit?? Parts fit is rarely an
> issue with Tamiya. That said, if they don't fit you get to fix it....
I guess I should mention that our Tamiya products here are assembled locally
since Tamiya has a factory located at our export zone. The box had a label
on the side saying "Tamiya Germany, Made in Philippines". Sounds ironic,
isn't it? Believe me, my country is not known for excellent quality control.
There's nothing more I can do about that except move on to more advanced
techniques or workarounds.
I've been doing a little practicing (on some scrap plastics) with cements,
brushes and filing (I liked this part. I got the hang of it! ;) ). The
cement I'm particularly amazed since I tried it on a broken cellphone part
and it did fuse them together as what the cement tutorial stated. I'm using
the Tamiya liquid cement. Very sturdy! Not bad for a test, eh? I did some
dry fitting of just the first step (two pieces) then gluing them in place
just so I can get some hands on experience of this. Sad to say I only have
on shot to get this right. I really can't afford to make too many mistakes.
Yes, I know I shouldn't let the perfectionist in me get the better of me.
If you have doubts. I could show you a image file showing the part in
question. The first step was the engine part. Right where the parts joined
up is a circular hole. If I used that hole as a reference point of aligning
the two pieces the sides are out of alignment. If I align the parts using
the edges as the reference the hole gets out of alignment. I went for the
aligning of the hole and decided it would be better if I filed the raised
edges since there really isn't that much of a seam anyway. Please coach me
if my judgement is right or wrong.
The testors workshop video said that thin cement with the brush should be
used to brush over the seams so it fuses them together and melts the seams.
I gave that a shot by applying a thin coat over the seam. I know I'm doing
something wrong. I didn't notice any changes but it's hard to explain if I
don't have a picture to show it for. I'll post it on a site when I finish
taking a snapshot of it. As for now, all I can say is the seams are still
there. :(
So tell me if I'm right on this, should I file them?
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
> I answered this yesterday but perhaps my response hasn't shown up
> on your news server yet. You are correct - the instructions are
> calling for mixing the colors in a one-to-one ratio.
Yes, that's my mistake. I overlooked it. Sorry.
BTW, if you have read another reply to this post, does it require that I
show evidence that I actually own a scale model to ask newbie questions?
Chad
"Larry D. Farrell" <farr...@isu.edu> wrote in message
news:4cf9c5d013027161...@news.teranews.com...
Nope, I'm sure I didn't. Read my other reply to Al on this thread about the
details.
Chad
"Larry D. Farrell" <farr...@isu.edu> wrote in message
news:4cf9c5d013027161...@news.teranews.com...
> Chad wrote:
> Then you have done something wrong. You said earlier that this is a
> Tamiya and I have yet to see a Tamiya kit where parts did not line up
> correctly.
>
Apparently, also, your Tamiya was not "Made in the Philippines". hehehe...
;) You have good quality products, wherever you are now.
Eyeball2002308
>Date: 3/31/2004 2:39 PM Eastern Standard Time
>Message-id: <c4f6r1$2hm6gk$1...@ID-134513.news.uni-berlin.de>
>
>And NO we don't have a frickin Dollar Store here! This is not your beloved
>United States!
>
Mark Schynert
>
> BTW, if you have read another reply to this post, does it require that I
> show evidence that I actually own a scale model to ask newbie questions?
>
photos converted to jpeg format, as well as samples of your blood,
saliva and hair, triplicate fingerprint cards, and, if you claim to
suffer from AMS (advanced modeling syndrome), a completed form HS-1330c
with counter-endorsement by IPMS.
Once all that is verified, we would be happy to consider your questions.
Mark Schynert
Klm
wrote:
>If you are that bitter about your last experience, keep it to yourself.
>Otherwise, stop answering my questions if it's bothering you!
>Don't ruin everyone else's mojo just because you THINK you know what's going
>on.
On the contrary its good fun. Its a game of who first catches on that
there is a game going on. You get to start the game with a trivial
problem and then toss in clues here and there that are inconsistent
with commonsense consequences of any course of action. The mojo as
you put it. Your subsequent posts only confirm this but I'll let
others figure out what they are.
>
Klm
>>Don't ruin everyone else's mojo just because you THINK you know what's going
>>on.
>
>On the contrary its good fun. Its a game of who first catches on that
>there is a game going on. You get to start the game with a trivial
>problem and then toss in clues here and there that are inconsistent
>with commonsense consequences of any course of action. The mojo as
>you put it. Your subsequent posts only confirm this but I'll let
>others figure out what they are.
>>
Yup. Chad is playing a mind game alright. There are so many
inconsistencies that I gave it further thought as I took my evening
walk.
Chad has already proceeded to gluing his model and says he didn't do
a good job of it. He claims to be so clueless that he now needs
instructions in gluing and filing bad-fit parts. That's a kinda late
in the process and really the only way to show how is for someone to
be by his side to actually show the procedure. Furthermore if he is
that clueless there is also no possibility that he can, by
correspondence, correct the gluing mistakes already made to come up
with a close to "perfect" model. By this time even a 8-year old
would have decided to just build the model, warts and all, and use it
as a learning process. Our Chad, on the other hand, has already
planned ahead how to achieve a "knock your eyes out" high gloss
automotive paint job using only a hand brush. No cheating with an
airbrush please. You can't spend more than what you would pay for a
cup of Starbucks coffee either.
Chad
"Eyeball2002308" <eyeball...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040331162031...@mb-m11.aol.com...
My point exactly.
Chad
My, God! I'm glad not everyone is like you! This is not a support group for
the "Miserable Victims of Sexual-molestation-on-the-internet newsgroup". I
believe sharing your experience of someone with a bad electric bill is
totally out of topic.
> Chad has already proceeded to gluing his model and says he didn't do
> a good job of it. He claims to be so clueless that he now needs
> instructions in gluing and filing bad-fit parts. That's a kinda late
If you're asking for pictures to prove that I'm right. I'm sorry. I'd rather
spare you, "the experienced modeler", the humiliation. Plus, I don't owe
you an explanation. You didn't even bother to read my reply to Al about the
situation here. Try and, at least, TRY to be considerate of the fact that
NOT EVERYONE belongs to your part of the planet. That's putting into account
the economic status and average income of a certain area. If you don't know
jack about it, feel free to keep your comments to yourself.
> that clueless there is also no possibility that he can, by
> correspondence, correct the gluing mistakes already made to come up
> with a close to "perfect" model. By this time even a 8-year old
> would have decided to just build the model, warts and all, and use it
> as a learning process. Our Chad, on the other hand, has already
> planned ahead how to achieve a "knock your eyes out" high gloss
> automotive paint job using only a hand brush. No cheating with an
Who said anything about a high gloss on a car? I just said I bought one. I
just asked if it's possible to get a good paint job without an airbrush.
Where did you get that idea? Does putting words in someone else's mouth part
of your forte too? That's along with your "other" hobby of making someone
else look more incompetent than you? Or do you get your kicks from harassing
kids as well? Are you enjoying yourself now?
On the contrary, I have just finished smoothing the part out. To my relief
it doesn't matter if it had some minor seams because after dry fitting the
rest of the parts of the engine (which I did not glue on yet) those exposed
seams won't be visible since they will be covered by outer parts. Sorry, if
I wasn't as lame as you when I started out. When you don't take money for
granted you get to evolve into someone more efficient. I can't help it if
I'm a natural for this. :P~~~~
Klm
wrote:
>> >And NO we don't have a frickin Dollar Store here! This is not your
>beloved
>> >United States!
>> >
>> nobody is perfect :)
>
>My point exactly.
>
A Dollar Store is not a national franchise or brand name. Its a very
successful mom and pop type business that has its equivalent in every
town. At an earlier time they were called Dime Stores, a name that
died cuz there's nothing you can by with a dime these days.
Chad
> On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 09:26:10 +0800, "Chad" <darks...@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >Do I have to paint the tires too?! :(
>
> On a model car? Not usually, and certainly not those in a Tamiya
> car kit.
How about painting it to give a look as if some tire-black was applied to
it?
Chad
>
>
> Yup. Chad is playing a mind game alright. There are so many
> inconsistencies that I gave it further thought as I took my evening
> walk.
My, God! Even when you're taking an evening walk you still couldn't get a
life!
The only one who's playing a mind game here is you.
Save us your HOMO experiences and stop picking on the REAL users of this
group.
Chad
> On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 07:13:07 GMT, Al Superczynski
> <mode...@deadspam.com> wrote:
>
> His type usually poses as the eager innocent in a guy things like
> hobbies, home repairs, electronics. He comes in with a seemingly
> valid problem but provides the barest details and usually a fuzzy
> objective that a true innocent seeking a solution would have clearly
Really? And what do I intend to gain from this aside from attracting
sexually perverted people like you? I'll bet you take pleasure in harassing
others as well. Asking questions without an obvious end to the means hardly
strikes me as enjoyable. It's a waste of my time and money, which I don't
have a lot of.
> The last time someone like him had a run was a problem on how to save
> on his electricity bills. His question was for home installed
> auxiliary power supply equipment. He posed as a guy who does computer
Aww... Just because this guy didn't accept your offer to give him head
doesn't mean you have to go around and spreading lies about him.
Perhaps you should also re-read the RMS faq on what a troll is! The only
person who fits the description is you. I'm not the one looking for
trouble - YOU ARE!
Ron
killfile....PLONK.
Ron
You also have such a lovely chickenshit non-address, don't expect to get
taken with any hint of seriousness.
William H. Shuey
>
> Greetings,
>
> Can someone give me some tips on how to paint without using an airbrush? I
> feel it is harder without one although I've never started yet. How hard can
> it be?
>
> Hopefully, within this week I'll be getting a good model and some tools to
> get started.
>
> Chad
The latest issue of Fine Scale Modeler magazine has an article on just
this subject. Usually good advice in FSM's painting articles.
Bill Shuey
Al Superczynski
wrote:
>How about painting it to give a look as if some tire-black was applied to
>it?
You can paint 'rubber' model car tires with water-based acrylics
but don't even try using enamel - it won't dry.
Al Superczynski
wrote:
>I guess I should mention that our Tamiya products here are assembled locally
>since Tamiya has a factory located at our export zone. The box had a label
>on the side saying "Tamiya Germany, Made in Philippines". Sounds ironic,
>isn't it? Believe me, my country is not known for excellent quality control.
Well, I don't know about manufactured items in the Philippines
but I've been there a couple times. I was *very* impressed with the
quality of some of the handmade solid wood models done there, and your
Jeepneys are artistic marvels...... ;-p
Besides, I doubt that Tamiya would risk its reputation on shoddy
merchandise no matter where it was manufactured.
>I could show you a image file showing the part in question.
Sure email it to me and I'll take a look. My 'reply to' address
is valid.
>...all I can say is the seams are still there. :(
There's *always* a seam when you glue parts together. If it's
not present on the real thing it's up to the modeler to eliminate it.
>So tell me if I'm right on this, should I file them?
Sure, if it will be visible when the model's finished. BTW, you
*have* read the FAQ I referred you to earlier, haven't you?
>...does it require that I show evidence that I actually own a scale model to ask newbie questions?
Not as far as I'm concerned. Even if you don't own a single
model the answers to your questions might be helpful to somebody else.
Al Superczynski
>You (Al) have already spotted where our friend Chad is heading.
I don't have any reason to suspect that he's anything other than
what he appears to be - a rank newbie to modeling who also may be
communicating in other than his first language since Filipino
(Tagalog) and English are both official languages in his country.
BTW, I *do* think that both of you need to chill out.....
EGMcCann
>
> BTW, I *do* think that both of you need to chill out.....
Amen to that.
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.631 / Virus Database: 404 - Release Date: 3/17/2004
Royabulgaf
>beloved
>> >United States!
Well go to your Zlotnik Store or Brightly Colored Pebbles store or whatever it
is you heathen foreigners use for currency. Kim m :+)
Chad
You guys come in here looking for trouble and I'm abusive? Geez, not only am
I attracting sexual old perverts, I'm also attracting loser sadists as well.
Bring it on fools! Two of you ain't enough to take me down!
"Ron" <rwsm...@rcn.com> wrote in message news:406CEA4B...@rcn.com...
Chad
"Mark Schynert" <mas...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:mass22-C9D9CF....@news3.west.earthlink.net...
> [snippage]
> >
> > BTW, if you have read another reply to this post, does it require that I
> > show evidence that I actually own a scale model to ask newbie questions?
> >
> Yes, it's a new homeland security requirement. You will need appropraite
> photos converted to jpeg format, as well as samples of your blood,
> saliva and hair, triplicate fingerprint cards, and, if you claim to
> suffer from AMS (advanced modeling syndrome), a completed form HS-1330c
> with counter-endorsement by IPMS.
I see, I see. Very nice. It's a good thing they didn't ask for a stool
sample as well. LOL.
I should have that ready for you by the end of the week.
Chad
Here's a hint for both of you showponies. Get a life, buttercup!
"Ron" <rwsm...@rcn.com> wrote in message news:406CEA9F...@rcn.com...
Chad
"EGMcCann" <egmc...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:c4jgfk$2k3gee$1...@ID-160738.news.uni-berlin.de...
>
> "Al Superczynski" <mode...@deadspam.com> wrote in message
> news:1v1q60hl0r8uh2iet...@4ax.com...
>
> >
> > BTW, I *do* think that both of you need to chill out.....
>
> Amen to that.
That would be a relief.
Chad
> On Thu, 1 Apr 2004 04:07:09 +0800, "Chad" <darks...@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Well, I don't know about manufactured items in the Philippines
> but I've been there a couple times. I was *very* impressed with the
> quality of some of the handmade solid wood models done there, and your
> Jeepneys are artistic marvels...... ;-p
That's the ones they show to tourists. The real ones are a heap of junk.
They are barely road worthy. They get pulled over a dozen times for
smoke-belching. It bogs down 5 times month.
Believe me when I say this, Al. The filipino is a foreigner in his own
country and the foreigners are at home here. We can't even enter a five-star
hotel looking sporty in shorts and slippers/sandals/rubber shoes like you
guys. We'd be kicked out. Our own kind refuses to serve us with the same
quality of service they'd give you. :(
> Besides, I doubt that Tamiya would risk its reputation on shoddy
> merchandise no matter where it was manufactured.
There's still a thing here called "when the cat's away the mouse will play".
I believe the japanese superiors only come here once a month to check on the
factory.
> Sure email it to me and I'll take a look. My 'reply to' address
> is valid.
I believe there might be no need for it as this step one consists of 4
parts. The first two were the parts in question but the next two covers
those parts so if it were painted it wouldn't be visible coz it's all "way
in" there. ;) Anyway, I'll try to borrow a digicam and have it sent to you.
I didn't glue them yet as it's not yet painted.
> There's *always* a seam when you glue parts together. If it's
> not present on the real thing it's up to the modeler to eliminate it.
Well, the other day, I was practicing on this engine tube part. It was
already preglued together and had visible seems. All I can say is it's hard
to file rounded parts but I managed to get a smooth finish.
I have another question though. Does minor scratches from a file show up
when you paint over them?
> Sure, if it will be visible when the model's finished. BTW, you
> *have* read the FAQ I referred you to earlier, haven't you?
Are you kidding me? It's like a bible to me! heheheh.... I read it very
often.
> Not as far as I'm concerned. Even if you don't own a single
> model the answers to your questions might be helpful to somebody else.
Thanks.
Al Superczynski
wrote:
>The filipino is a foreigner in his own country and the foreigners are at home here.
>We can't even enter a five-star hotel looking sporty in shorts and slippers/sandals/rubber shoes like you
>guys.
'You guys'? Do you mean Americans? How do they tell who's an
American? We're hardly a homogenous people - a lot of us could pass
as Filipino without even trying....
Still, if you want to denigrate your own country I guess that's
your right. God knows there are plenty of Americans with little good
to say of the USA.
>...the other day, I was practicing on this engine tube part. It was
>already preglued together and had visible seems. All I can say is it's hard
>to file rounded parts but I managed to get a smooth finish.
See if you can get a Flexifile. If they're not available in the
Philippines you could make up a substitute from coathangar wire.
http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/misc/tools/flex-files/flexfiles.html
>Does minor scratches from a file show up when you paint over them?
Yes.
e
or in europe, the neon toilet paper store.
Chad
> 'You guys'? Do you mean Americans? How do they tell who's an
> American? We're hardly a homogenous people - a lot of us could pass
> as Filipino without even trying....
Not necessarily American. "White boys" would practically generalize most
westerners. The ones who could pass for Filipino would not get the Filipino
treatment. :P
> Still, if you want to denigrate your own country I guess that's
> your right. God knows there are plenty of Americans with little good
> to say of the USA.
>
Yeah, I know. I used to work for an American boss and he doesn't seem to
happy about the US.
>
> See if you can get a Flexifile. If they're not available in the
> Philippines you could make up a substitute from coathangar wire.
> http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/misc/tools/flex-files/flexfiles.html
I can imagine what you're suggesting. Thanks for the idea. The file is
definitely flat. The round ones would be good. Based on your suggestion
would a rat's tail file do the job?
> >Does minor scratches from a file show up when you paint over them?
>
> Yes.
Ouch! Even the smoothly matted ones? I mean the ones that are not deep just
those fine scratches made by the fine sandpapers. :)
Royabulgaf
>>
>> Yes.
>Ouch! Even the smoothly matted ones? I mean the ones that are not deep just
>those fine scratches made by the fine sandpapers. :)
>
>
Usually, if you get down to about 600 grit sandpaper, you should have no
trouble with scratches showing on matte paint. Kim M
Bill Banaszak
strung between the two prongs. They're great for shaping rounded parts.
Bill Banaszak, MFE
Chad
"Bill Banaszak" <vze3...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:406F8A44...@verizon.net...
> Chad, a Flexifile is a U-shaped metal rod with a strip of sandpaper
> strung between the two prongs. They're great for shaping rounded parts.
>
Yeah, I saw the picture Al gave me. But I had the stupid idea of wrapping
the sandpaper around the the rod. LOL. But you'd have to hand it to my idea.
A round shaped file would make it also easy to shave off excess plastic
without the edge making annoying scratches like the ordinary flat file.
Ideal for rounded parts as well as removing excess plastic from sprues.