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faded paint and decals

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Al Lembo

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Jan 29, 1996, 3:00:00 AM1/29/96
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I tried some of the suggestions stated in a recent thread for fading
paint on a new Hellcat and it came out very nice. Now, what does one
do about putting "factory fresh" decals on this weathered surface? I
assume that the way to handle this would be to spray the decals with
something that will lighten them before application. Are there any
traps here? Is there anything that shouldn't be used? I'm thinking
along the lines of Polly-S or Floquil dust.
__

Al Lembo
all...@unix.asb.com

"Having more fun than one person should be allowed to have"


JimMaas

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Jan 29, 1996, 3:00:00 AM1/29/96
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For fading, try using Poly-scale clear gloss, thinned, with just a little
white in it. Just thinning white won't work, because it'll be _too_ thin.
But if you use "tinted" clear, it'll work. Before you lighten the
decals, though, remember to trim the carrier film right up to the insignia
outline - otherwise you'll get a faded 'border'

Don Stauffer

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Jan 29, 1996, 3:00:00 AM1/29/96
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In article <310ceb6a...@news2.new-york.net>, all...@unix.asb.com
(Al Lembo) says:
>
>I tried some of the suggestions stated in a recent thread for fading
>paint on a new Hellcat and it came out very nice. Now, what does one
>do about putting "factory fresh" decals on this weathered surface? I
>assume that the way to handle this would be to spray the decals with
>something that will lighten them before application. Are there any
>traps here? Is there anything that shouldn't be used? I'm thinking
>along the lines of Polly-S or Floquil dust.
>__
>
>Al Lembo
>all...@unix.asb.com

Put the decals on BEFORE you spray the weathered paint. In other words,
first paint and decal model so that it looks new. THEN overspray with
greyed or white paint. Do this very thin. The decals will then look
faded, to a degree matching the paint. The weathering effects should be
the last thing you do.

Don Stauffer in Minneapolis
stau...@htc.honeywell.com

Mark Cart

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Jan 30, 1996, 3:00:00 AM1/30/96
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Could the decals be *naturally* faded, perhaps by leaving them in a sealed
baggy on a sunny window-sill? That way, one wouldn't have to worry about
getting some overspray on the decals that didn't match them...

Just a thought.

Mark

A.Svennevik

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Jan 30, 1996, 3:00:00 AM1/30/96
to
all...@unix.asb.com (Al Lembo) wrote:
>I tried some of the suggestions stated in a recent thread for fading
>paint on a new Hellcat and it came out very nice. Now, what does one
>do about putting "factory fresh" decals on this weathered surface? I
>assume that the way to handle this would be to spray the decals with
>something that will lighten them before application. Are there any
>traps here? Is there anything that shouldn't be used? I'm thinking
>along the lines of Polly-S or Floquil dust.

Some years ago I built a desert camo Bf109F. I sprayed it in various shades
of tan to give it a weathered finish. I then applied gloss varnish, then
decals, then matt varnish. This results in factory fresh markings on a
weathered aircraft. I had considered spraying the decals before
application but decided against this for a number of reasons, mainly how
does one ensure that the weathering on the decals 'fits' the waethering of
the aircraft?

What I did was to rub findly ground pastels, mainly white, into the matt
varnish over the decals using a Q-tip/cotton bud. Work from the middle of
the decal out. Be very careful at the edges. Most decals are thick enough to
have a noticable step between the edge and the model. If too much pastel
chalk catches here it looks like the decal has been drybrushed, i.e. a
distinct outline is visible. Fortunately the pastel chalk can be cleaned with
water, at least in most cases.

Anders


Al Lembo

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Jan 31, 1996, 3:00:00 AM1/31/96
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stau...@htc.honeywell.com (Don Stauffer) wrote:

>In article <310ceb6a...@news2.new-york.net>, all...@unix.asb.com
>(Al Lembo) says:
>>

>>I tried some of the suggestions stated in a recent thread for fading
>>paint on a new Hellcat and it came out very nice. Now, what does one
>>do about putting "factory fresh" decals on this weathered surface? I
>>assume that the way to handle this would be to spray the decals with
>>something that will lighten them before application. Are there any
>>traps here? Is there anything that shouldn't be used? I'm thinking
>>along the lines of Polly-S or Floquil dust.

>>__
>>
>>Al Lembo
>>all...@unix.asb.com
>
>Put the decals on BEFORE you spray the weathered paint. In other words,
>first paint and decal model so that it looks new. THEN overspray with
>greyed or white paint. Do this very thin. The decals will then look
>faded, to a degree matching the paint. The weathering effects should be
>the last thing you do.
>
>Don Stauffer in Minneapolis
>stau...@htc.honeywell.com

the technique that I used precludes this. The technique I used was to
paint the model and then spray lightened paint between the panel
lines. This causes the panel lines to remain darker...the effect is
very good and is easier than it sounds. What remains however is the
issue of how to fade the decals. Your method is what I had done in
the past. So far, this new technique, for me, appears more like a
weathered surface.

Al Lembo

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Jan 31, 1996, 3:00:00 AM1/31/96
to
"A.Svennevik" <ebc...@ebc.ericsson.se> wrote:

>
>Some years ago I built a desert camo Bf109F. I sprayed it in various shades
>of tan to give it a weathered finish. I then applied gloss varnish, then
>decals, then matt varnish. This results in factory fresh markings on a
>weathered aircraft. I had considered spraying the decals before
>application but decided against this for a number of reasons, mainly how
>does one ensure that the weathering on the decals 'fits' the waethering of
>the aircraft?
>
>What I did was to rub findly ground pastels, mainly white, into the matt
>varnish over the decals using a Q-tip/cotton bud. Work from the middle of
>the decal out. Be very careful at the edges. Most decals are thick enough to
>have a noticable step between the edge and the model. If too much pastel
>chalk catches here it looks like the decal has been drybrushed, i.e. a
>distinct outline is visible. Fortunately the pastel chalk can be cleaned with
>water, at least in most cases.

this sounds like the way to go. I'll try it...after all you can wash
it off if you mess up.

Rafael Rodriguez

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Jan 31, 1996, 3:00:00 AM1/31/96
to
all...@unix.asb.com (Al Lembo) wrote:
>I tried some of the suggestions stated in a recent thread for fading
>paint on a new Hellcat and it came out very nice. Now, what does one
>do about putting "factory fresh" decals on this weathered surface?

Al,

What I normally do is to fade the paint AFTER I apply the decals and a
coat of clear coat over the whole aircraft. The clear coat gives the same
shining (or lack of it) to both decals and paint, then the fading is
applied over both decals and paint and the effect is terrific. Since the
fading is uniform over both decals and paint it enhances the "painted on"
look of these.

Regards,
Rafael


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