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Turpenoid and oil washes

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Jeff_from_Canada

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Apr 9, 2006, 11:31:01 PM4/9/06
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I got the Floyd Werner Master Class Clinic DVD for the Hasegawa
BF109-G6 and he
uses Turpenoid for his oil washes. I have been just using regular
thinner (white
spirits) for my washes until now but I always did them over the top of
a Humbrol
gloss coat. Of course when I tried to use thinner without a barrier
over the
top of the RLM66 Model Master enamel in my 109 cockpit the thinner
reacted with the enamel and it looked like crap.

So I bought an FW-190-A4 kit to practice on and I also bought a can of
Turpenoid
at the local artist supply store. This stuff is called 'Turpenoid
Natural' in a green can
made by Weber in Philadelphia. I got it home and went to do a wash and
I was not
a happy camper. This stuff seems extremely viscous and it would not
flow
at all after mixing with the oils and put on to the model.

Are there different kinds of turpenoid? Did I get a bum batch or
something? The stuff
Floyd is using looks as thin as water .

Francis X. Kranick, Jr.

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Apr 9, 2006, 11:43:34 PM4/9/06
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Jeff_from_Canada wrote:
(snip)

>
> Are there different kinds of turpenoid? Did I get a bum batch or
> something? The stuff
> Floyd is using looks as thin as water .
>

Indeed, Weber makes 'turpenoid', plain-jane turpenoid in a white and
blue can. I made the same mistake by asking my wife to pick up a can
while at Michael's. She got me the same product you have; I seem to
recall that 'naturel' or however it's spelled is a brush conditioner.
It's definately not what you want to use as a wash base...
Look for the regular stuff - it's water clear and has no scent. It
works great just as Floyd uses it. I just got the DVD's yesterday and
have yet to go through them but the ones playing at MosquitoCON were
neat to see.


Frank Kranick

Jeff_from_Canada

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Apr 9, 2006, 11:51:42 PM4/9/06
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That's good to know thanks! thought I was losing it there =8-)

The DVD's are great. I can't play the last 4 chapters of disk 3 on my
laptop
for some reason. The disk plays fine on my wife's laptop though so
I don't think there's a problem with the media.

The DVD was the first time I had seen pre-shading. I tried it on the
FW-190
and it does have a neat effect. A lot more subtle than the stark panel
lines
that you see when using a wash.

Now if I could just get the fine tip/needle on my Badger 150 to work
predictably
the world would be my oyster =8-)

Kevin(Bluey)

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Apr 10, 2006, 12:31:26 AM4/10/06
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I use artists turpentine made by Art Spectrum for washes ,has a bit of
an odour ,and not as aggressive as the regular hardware store
turpentine, which I use for cleaning brushes and my airbrush .

It will still attack the enamel paints if you don't have an acrylic coat.
--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."

blu...@westnet.com.au

Jeff_from_Canada

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Apr 10, 2006, 12:36:11 AM4/10/06
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That makes sense. I was surprised when Floyd ran the wash over the
enamel without a
barrier, but on further reading here on RMS it seems Turpenoid is the
way to go. Otherwise
for something like a cockpit you're going through a 4 phase project
(paint, gloss,wash,flat)

Andy Irving

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Apr 10, 2006, 10:22:08 AM4/10/06
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I bought some and had the same problen,I bought it in an Artist supply
store, figured they would know what i wanted.mine also is quite thick,
I'll try Francis's suggestion and use it up as a bruh cleaner
Regards

Andy (in Toronto)

Ron Smith

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Apr 10, 2006, 12:40:52 PM4/10/06
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You want the Turpenoid in the blue & white can, odorless Turpenoid
turpentine substitute. The 16 ounce can has part number 1683.
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