tamiya paint question
Brian B Chin
hulls, etc., paint removes itself when over-painting. This happens even when
applying second coat on thoroughly dry first layer. Does Tamiya paint act as
it's own paint remover?
jo...@thornton3966.freeserve.co.uk
I've had similar problems. I've managed to avoid stripping layers of
fresh paint by being careful not to overbrush, although occasionally it
still happens. On dry layers I've succeeded by giving the model a coat
of Future before adding the second coat.
I'd be interested to learn of any better methods.
Mechanical Menace
news:1164498091.8...@14g2000cws.googlegroups.com:
Use other paints!!
I've had the same thing happen too.
First thought it was the surface was not degreased enough, then more
thoroughly shaked/stirred the paints, used different thinners, nothing
helped, it still stripped itself.
Since then I use Pactra Acrylics (I have a very old stash of them and it
is running out) But it paints like a paint should.
Anybody know if Pactra still makes it?
I use Tamiya paints ONLY for airbrushing, for which it is VERY good.
HTH
Cheers,
Dennis
Count DeMoney
Mad-Modeller
But they may not be the same thing. Since RPM (Testors' parent) got
control of Pactra, the formulas may have changed.
Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
Brian B Chin
extensively handbrushing them on most of my projects (large surfaces) for
years and never noticed any problems. Then this year I used them on the
simplest of jobs, and the problem now is reality. I have since removed all
Tamiya paints from my shelf and will use only Testor and Polyscale acrylics
exclusively.
Count DeMoney
brushes well. You can watch Micro Mark also. They stock Pactra and
will throw out a sale or free freight once in a while.
Art Murray
the old Aeromaster acrylics (which were all essentially the same formula, I
believe) brush paint very well. Use water to thin as you go.
"Brian B Chin" <hd...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:um3ah.3445$tM1....@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
Jim Bright
that I don't like their paint for brushing or air brushing. Where I find
other acrylic paints perform better I would put them all in the category of
"third world paints". They are very useful in painting small irregular
surfaces, like figures, where surface quality is not noticeable. Acrylic
paints have high surface tension, even when extended, and have to be applied
heavily to cover well. They also start to cure rapidly and the cure is not
reversible so getting good blending with a brush on a large flat surface is
a real crap shoot. Acrylics can do quite well when airbrushing if you are
doing matt or flat finishes. Acceptable results are very subjective and what
looks great to one may look really bad to another. I find that the best way
to evaluate your finish is to take a photo of it in the same perspective as
the prototype and then compare.
J. Bright
"Art Murray" <artm...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:yvLah.12719$SV4....@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
Gernot Hassenpflug
Jim> I like the Tamiya clear colors for painting light bulbs and
Jim> lenses. Beyond that I don't like their paint for brushing or
Jim> air brushing. Where I find other acrylic paints perform
Jim> better I would put them all in the category of "third world
Jim> paints". They are very useful in painting small irregular
Jim> surfaces, like figures, where surface quality is not
Jim> noticeable. Acrylic paints have high surface tension, even
Jim> when extended, and have to be applied heavily to cover
Jim> well. They also start to cure rapidly and the cure is not
Jim> reversible so getting good blending with a brush on a large
Jim> flat surface is a real crap shoot. Acrylics can do quite well
Jim> when airbrushing if you are doing matt or flat
Jim> finishes. Acceptable results are very subjective and what
Jim> looks great to one may look really bad to another. I find
Jim> that the best way to evaluate your finish is to take a photo
Jim> of it in the same perspective as the prototype and then
Jim> compare.
Jim, IIRC the clear colors are all enamels (oil-based, thinnable with
turpentine). Quite different from the (water-based) acrylics you next
mention. I don't believe "3rd world paints" is fair, although there
was a time when I cursed water-based acrlyics from Gunze. It is
probably true that the water-based acrylics are better for
air-brushing than hand-brushing, I agree there. From a technique point
of view I suggest NOT to apply heavy coats, but to apply progressive
coatings to get required coverage OVER A BASE COAT. This should
improve things a lot. I'm still in love with enamels since I grew up
with Humbrol, and enthusiastically received Xtracolor.
In general, the laquer-based acrylics seem to be much much better than
water-based from an adhesion and drying point - but are much more
dangerous to your health. I will recommend Gunze lacquer-based
acrlyics any day (that's the Mr. Color label).
Jim> "Art Murray" <artm...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
Jim> news:yvLah.12719$SV4....@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
>> Tamiya and Gunze acrylics do not brush paint well. Polly
>> Scale, Polly S and the old Aeromaster acrylics (which were all
>> essentially the same formula, I believe) brush paint very well.
>> Use water to thin as you go.
Who the heck posted first here??? Regarding Japanese water-based
acrylics (Gunze and Tamiya) I suggest not using water, but the company
thinning agents instead (either one is fine for both). Less bubbles,
better mixing and adhesion - but the problems I experienced could be
due to the quality of the water I was having to use.
>> "Brian B Chin" <hd...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:um3ah.3445$tM1....@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>>> Using Tamiya acrylic paints by handbrushing over large
>>> surfaces, ie. wings, hulls, etc., paint removes itself when
>>> over-painting. This happens even when applying second coat on
>>> thoroughly dry first layer. Does Tamiya paint act as it's own
>>> paint remover?
I'm not sure, but adhesion is definitely less solid than laquer-based
acrylics and enamels. It may also depend on what you are thinning it
with. Water-based acrylics can rub off easily, and should be sealed if
possible (using enamel to seal will allow water-based or lacquer-based
acrylic or oil-based enamel to go over in a second coat, camouflage,
or what have you).
--
G Hassenpflug /* IJN & JMSDF */
Brian B Chin
acrylics and Testor PolyScale are lacquer based acrylics? Seems the Tamiya
paints have the odor and the Tester paints do not.
Jim Bright
safer to breath than a solvent based paint. You need the same ventilation
and breathing protection for all types of paints as they are probably
equally dangerous -- even if you can't smell them.
J. Bright
"Brian B Chin" <hd...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:ZHRah.4330$tM1....@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
Jim Bright
> Jim, IIRC the clear colors are all enamels (oil-based, thinnable with
> turpentine). Quite different from the (water-based) acrylics you next
> mention. I don't believe "3rd world paints" is fair, although there
> was a time when I cursed water-based acrlyics from Gunze.
I just rechecked my stash of Tamyia paints including the clear colors and
they still are miscible with water even though they are a few years old.
Maybe the formula has been changed in recent years. And I agree -- the term
3rd world paints is not right --5th world would probably be much better.
J. Bright
Gernot Hassenpflug
Jim> No! the acrylic category is all water base. That fact does
Jim> not make them safer to breath than a solvent based paint. You
Jim> need the same ventilation and breathing protection for all
Jim> types of paints as they are probably equally dangerous --
Jim> even if you can't smell them.
Hmm, I have here two categories: water-based acrylics, and
lacquer-based acrylics. The former is mixable with water, which is
safe, even if the paint itself contains poisons. Painting indoors does
not lead to any residual smell although as you point out the poison in
the paint is still there. The latter however is mixed with lacquer
thinner, which smells A LOT and is poisonous in addition to what is in
the paints.
So, what do you call the lacquer-based acrylics?
Jim> "Brian B Chin" <hd...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
Jim> news:ZHRah.4330$tM1....@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>> From health standpoint, please clarify: Tamiya and Gunze are
>> water-based acrylics and Testor PolyScale are lacquer based
>> acrylics? Seems the Tamiya paints have the odor and the Tester
>> paints do not.
>>
--
Gernot Hassenpflug
>> Jim, IIRC the clear colors are all enamels (oil-based,
>> thinnable with turpentine). Quite different from the
>> (water-based) acrylics you next mention. I don't believe "3rd
>> world paints" is fair, although there was a time when I cursed
>> water-based acrlyics from Gunze.
Jim> I just rechecked my stash of Tamyia paints including the
Jim> clear colors and they still are miscible with water even
Jim> though they are a few years old. Maybe the formula has been
Jim> changed in recent years. And I agree -- the term 3rd world
Jim> paints is not right --5th world would probably be much
Jim> better.
You're probably using 5th world paints then, from decades back. My
clear (e.g. X-27 clear red) are all labelled "enamel". Tamiya produces
the enamels in rather narrow square-section 10ml glass jars. If you're
into paint comparisons, I suggest you give those enamels a whirl and
see how you like them. As for lacquer-based acryls, I really like the
Gunze Mr. Color. Quick drying, thin layers with coverage, asy to
clean.
John McGrail
> You're probably using 5th world paints then, from decades back. My
> clear (e.g. X-27 clear red) are all labelled "enamel". Tamiya produces
> the enamels in rather narrow square-section 10ml glass jars.
Just to be clear (ha!), Tamiya clear paints are produced in both enamel
and acrylic. They even have clears available in their lacquer spray line.
--
rat...@food.skaterat.net
All foods should be removed to reply
Gernot Hassenpflug
>>
>> You're probably using 5th world paints then, from decades
>> back. My clear (e.g. X-27 clear red) are all labelled
>> "enamel". Tamiya produces the enamels in rather narrow
>> square-section 10ml glass jars.
John> Just to be clear (ha!), Tamiya clear paints are produced in
John> both enamel and acrylic. They even have clears available in
John> their lacquer spray line.
Haha, the thlot plickens, eh :-)
Mechanical Menace
news:1164640506.6...@j72g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
> I am not sure what if any changes testors made to Pactra but it still
> brushes well. You can watch Micro Mark also. They stock Pactra and
> will throw out a sale or free freight once in a while.
>
OK, thanks all.
I'll take a look at tower hobbies and Micro Mark.
Cheers,
Dennis