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Quick Review: Tamiya 1/350 DD445 Fletcher

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Jennings Heilig

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Aug 16, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/16/96
to

Just got the Tamiya Fletcher in 1/350 (yippee!), and although I'm not
a big ship modeler (although I do model big ships...), I was pretty
jazzed when I found out that Tamiya had seen fit to do something less
than two feet long for a change.
This kit is very typical of the previous high quality Tamiya 1/350
ship offerings. Same level of detail, same great moldings, and same
overall accuracy. I'm not an expert on Fletchers (or anything else
for that matter), so I can't comment on the specific details as
they've molded them, but it sure looks like a Fletcher to me. It's
molded (this time around) as an early round bridge ship, but the
entire bridge structure is molded on a separate sprue, telling me that
a square bridge ship is coming in the future. Also, if you look
carefully, there is a split in the mold admidships, which tells me
that they may well have an aft hull mold allowing them to do a Gearing
at some later date (oh *please* do a Gearing!). Since the Gearings
had twin rudders, they would have to do a new aft end (14 scale feet
longer) to do them. This is the first 1/350 ship I've seen which
attempts (with raised detail) to represent the hull plating lines.
Nice touch.
If you're a ship modeler and you've seen other Tamiya 1/350 kits,
there's not much else to say about this one. Imagine the USS Missouri
shrunk down and that's pretty much what you get. The small decal
sheet has hull numbers (white only) for DD's 445 through 448, and
these are typical rather thick waxy type Tamiya decals. Easy enough
to replace the solid white numbers with some from an aircraft sheet
though. You also get two flags (both 50 star, btw, thus useless for
WWII subjects). Painting instructions are given (with only Tamiya
paint numbers of course) for the early dapple camouflage applied to
the class, and for the later Ms.22 scheme. I don't have a lot of
reference on the Fletchers, so I'm not sure what the actual colors
were for the dapple camo. Any experts??
Gold Medal Models is working feverishly on an early war and a late war
brass set for this model, and by the time they dock in the U.S.
(sorry, a little Navy humor there), the Gold Medal sets should be
available.

Jennings Heilig

mont...@usit.net

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Aug 16, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/16/96
to

Jennings Heilig <jhe...@gate.net> wrote:

>Just got the Tamiya Fletcher in 1/350 (yippee!), and although I'm not
>a big ship modeler (although I do model big ships...), I was pretty
>jazzed when I found out that Tamiya had seen fit to do something less
>than two feet long for a change.

Didn't know that they were out yet. Great news though!

>This kit is very typical of the previous high quality Tamiya 1/350
>ship offerings. Same level of detail, same great moldings, and same
>overall accuracy. I'm not an expert on Fletchers (or anything else
>for that matter), so I can't comment on the specific details as
>they've molded them, but it sure looks like a Fletcher to me.

If it's the same as the one they had in Va. Beach, one of the
incorrect details, if it is to be done as a WW2 unit, is the non skid
walkways molded onto the decks. In the photos I've seen of WW2 units,
none of them had these. Standard procedure for making nonskid,
according to SHIPS-2, was to mix sand into the 20-B paint. But there
may be data that proves this wrong.

>It's molded (this time around) as an early round bridge ship, but the
>entire bridge structure is molded on a separate sprue, telling me that
>a square bridge ship is coming in the future. Also, if you look
>carefully, there is a split in the mold admidships, which tells me
>that they may well have an aft hull mold allowing them to do a Gearing
>at some later date (oh *please* do a Gearing!). Since the Gearings
>had twin rudders, they would have to do a new aft end (14 scale feet
>longer) to do them.

Gearings and Sumners also were wider than the Fletchers by about a
foot, so they would probably do another mold for a different hull.

> Painting instructions are given (with only Tamiya
>paint numbers of course) for the early dapple camouflage applied to
>the class, and for the later Ms.22 scheme. I don't have a lot of
>reference on the Fletchers, so I'm not sure what the actual colors
>were for the dapple camo. Any experts??

Colors were as follows:

Ms 12 (late '42 to mid '43) - Sea Blue 5-S, Ocean Grey 5-O, and

Haze Grey 5-H

Ms 22 (late '43) - Navy Blue 5-N, Ocean Grey 5-O
Ms 31 (late '43) - Dull Black BK, Ocean Grey 5-O, Haze Grey 5-H
Ms 31a " - 2-color - 5-N, 5-H
3-color - 5-N, 5-O, 5-H
Ms 32 (late '43) - 2-color - BK, 5-L
3-color - BK, 5-O, 5-L
Ms 33 (late '43) - 2-color - 5-O, 5-L
3-color - 5-N, 5-H, and Pale Grey 5-P

A more comprehensive description is in the ship building FAQ.

>Gold Medal Models is working feverishly on an early war and a late war
>brass set for this model, and by the time they dock in the U.S.
>(sorry, a little Navy humor there), the Gold Medal sets should be
>available.

Also, if these hit the market prior to the release of this set, I
believe that Tom's Modelworks has a DE set that will provide most of
the necessary stuff for this. At $38.00 a copy, it's a needed,
affordable addition to the fleet!


REDBOZO6 sends

"No doubt about it, I've got to get another hat!"
Bullwinkle J. Moose


Lee Griffin

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Aug 16, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/16/96
to

mont...@usit.net wrote:

snip


> Gearings and Sumners also were wider than the Fletchers by about a
>foot, so they would probably do another mold for a different hull.

more snip


I'm not a ship guy, but in 1/350 scale, what does a foot come out to
in scale? I don't mean to be contentious, but I don't think a kit man-
ufacturer is going to mold a whole new hull to account for one foot
in 1/350 scale; just an opinion. No flame intended. Other thoughts?

Regards,

Lee

Jennings Heilig

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Aug 16, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/16/96
to Lee Griffin

According to the Naval Institute Press book on the Sumners and Gear-
ings, the entire Fletcher/Sumner/Gearing family were the same beam
(width). There were individual variations depending on who, when and
where the ship was built. The basic hull, apart from the 14"
lengthening of the Gearings, was the same.

Jennings

Jennings Heilig

unread,
Aug 17, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/17/96
to mont...@usit.net

Thanks for the Fletcher camo information. I seriously doubt that if
they do a Sumner or Gearing they'd bother with making the hull any
wider. Do the math....12 inches in 1/350 scale is only .87mm (.04").
You could shave that much off with a couple of swipes of sandpaper.

Cheers,

Jennings

Mike Settle

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Aug 17, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/17/96
to Lee Griffin

Well, we do have to be concerned about those with anal-powered
flashlights and sphincter calibrated micrometers. :) :)

Mike Settle
--
(Our problems are mostly behind us. What we have to do now is fight the
solutions. --Anon. )

James Corley

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Aug 17, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/17/96
to

In <321467...@gate.net> Jennings Heilig <jhe...@gate.net> writes:
>
>Just got the Tamiya Fletcher in 1/350 (yippee!),


Jennings.....you left out the most important detail.....


CAN WE AFFORD IT?????

or, how much moolah will it set us back when we buy it anyway?!

Burl Burlingame

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Aug 17, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/17/96
to

Tom's Modelworks already has a brass sheet out for this model. Tom
measured the Tamiya booth example at the IPMS nats and modified his
parts accordingly, and repackaged them with the changes. Quick work!

Jennings Heilig

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Aug 17, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/17/96
to James Corley

James Corley wrote:
>

> Jennings.....you left out the most important detail.....
>
> CAN WE AFFORD IT?????
>
> or, how much moolah will it set us back when we buy it anyway?!

I think the U.S. retail is set to be about $38 or so. I got it from
Japan for $24 plus postage. Scott Hards, how much are you charging
for them??

Jennings


PS: The answer to your question is: YES!

pl...@phoenix.net

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Aug 17, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/17/96
to

In article <321467...@gate.net>, <jhe...@gate.net> writes:

The possibly-mythical Jennings Heilig said:

> Painting instructions are given (with only Tamiya
> paint numbers of course) for the early dapple camouflage applied to
> the class, and for the later Ms.22 scheme. I don't have a lot of
> reference on the Fletchers, so I'm not sure what the actual colors
> were for the dapple camo. Any experts??

The Floating Drydock publication "United States Navy Camouflage 1
of the WW2 Era" has details on USN painting schemes for the
entire period. It mentions which colors went to make up each scheme,
but the colors are only names - no FS references.

They also have a color card showing the purple-blue greys used
for most USN ships: pale gray, light gray, haze gray, ocean gray,
navy gray (sic, I think they meant blue), and deck blue.

Given that, and a desired scheme e.g. Ms 33/whatever, you should
be able to come up with approximate equivalents in your favorite
brand of paint. For example, I use Testor's MM 36375 as my
equivalent for modern haze gray. Works for me.

I only wish I could get something as close for RN and KM ships.
My Tamiya Prince of Wales is nicely done up as of late 1941, but
I'd like better info for Tirpitz, Yamato, Jean Bart, ... (Yes, David,
I know, Krylon gray primer...)

For another for instance, I used Testor's intermediate blue and
grey 36237 to do my USS Washington in 1942 Ms 12 mod. Note
that it is _not_ USS North Carolina, sorry Jennings, but if you wish
for North Carolina and I wish for South Dakota maybe we'll both
get lucky... :-)

-- Allan Plumb (adp...@barrios.com works best for incoming)


James Corley

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Aug 17, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/17/96
to

To further support/deny this, here is some specific data from said
source:

All dimensions in feet-inches

Class LOA LWL Beam Draft(Max)
Fletcher (DD445) 376-6 369-0 39-8 15-0
Sumner (DD692) 376-6 369-0 40-10 15-8
Gearing (DD710) 390-6 383-0 40-10 18-6

The extreme beam of the later classes was to allow for slightly better
handling characteristics. This difference is 1' 4". In 1/350 scale this
difference is 0.0038' or 0.0457" or 1.1611mm. I don't think even Mr
Tamiya will be willing to spend any money for this small of a
difference. And I dare any judge to get a micrometer out to measure
this.


For me, the difference is enough to igonre, but I suppose an exacting
modeller could go the the trouble of putting a .60mm strip along the
inside of the hull to get the beam closer to exact!

MBishop446

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Aug 18, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/18/96
to

Guys,
Did anyone bother to look at the blank doors on the deck level stations?
Did Anyone look at the 40mm gun. Piss poor if you must know the truth.
This kit is just as good as what Tamyia has already done some ten years
ago on the other 1/350 scale kits. Seeing what they have done with the
Armor and A/C releases why couldn't they put the some level of detail on
the ship kits? I have already made my money from my line of DD445
class ships. If I can put the detail on the kit why can't Tamiya?

I don't buy the response that the detail can't be done after seeing the
F-4 kit.

BTW I made the change that would make a DD445 into a DD710. I made a
completly new hull. I would expect nothing less.

Mike
TURKEY TROTS TO WATER GG FROM CINCPAC ACTION COM THIRD FLEET INFO CTF 77 X
WHERE IS RPT WHERE IS TASK FORCE THIRTY-FOUR RR THE WORLD WONDERS.

Jennings Heilig

unread,
Aug 18, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/18/96
to MBishop446

MBishop446 wrote:
>
> Guys,
> Did anyone bother to look at the blank doors on the deck level stations?
> Did Anyone look at the 40mm gun. Piss poor if you must know the truth.
> This kit is just as good as what Tamyia has already done some ten years
> ago on the other 1/350 scale kits. Seeing what they have done with the
> Armor and A/C releases why couldn't they put the some level of detail on
> the ship kits?

Because I suspect that if they had gone all the way and done the full
treatment the kit would have cost twice what it does. This falls into
the same category as why we "need" (relative term) resin cockpits and
wheels for everything aircraft-wise and separate track links and a ton
of photo-etching and cast brass (or whatever) for all the armor kits.
I'd much rather see a good basic kit to which you can add the extras
than no kit at all, and I suspect that just about every ship modeler
would agree with me.



> BTW I made the change that would make a DD445 into a DD710. I made a
> completly new hull. I would expect nothing less.

Why pour money down a black hole? If the difference is so small (and
we're talking about .03" here on the beam) that no one without a 10x
loupe and a micrometer could see it, why not just do what's necessary
to get a decent looking model out of it. I seriously doubt that
anyone would be able to look at a model on a contest table and tell me
whether it was .03" wider or narrower than it should be - I don't care
*how* anal-retentive they are.

Just my $.02 worth. I, for one, am very happy with the new Tamiya
release, whether or not they ever do a Gearing.

Jennings

mont...@usit.net

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Aug 18, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/18/96
to

Mike Settle <war...@interpath.com> wrote:

>> I'm not a ship guy, but in 1/350 scale, what does a foot come out to
>> in scale? I don't mean to be contentious, but I don't think a kit man-
>> ufacturer is going to mold a whole new hull to account for one foot
>> in 1/350 scale; just an opinion. No flame intended. Other thoughts?
>>

>Well, we do have to be concerned about those with anal-powered
>flashlights and sphincter calibrated micrometers. :) :)

As many of the posts from the aircraft and armor guys have previously
pointed out about the new kits in their fields, so shall the
established ship builders do about the first new injection kit in
7(?) years to hit the shelves? If production of these classes of
ships do occur (rumor says the next could be a Nimitz, Essex, or
Kongo), it'll be the people who have the most to lose who will start
the whining, not builders. We'll just add the necessary width to the
sides to make it to scale, and find a new way to spend the $60+ we
just saved.


mont...@usit.net

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Aug 19, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/19/96
to

mbish...@aol.com (MBishop446) wrote:

>Guys,
>Did anyone bother to look at the blank doors on the deck level stations?
>Did Anyone look at the 40mm gun. Piss poor if you must know the truth.
>This kit is just as good as what Tamyia has already done some ten years
>ago on the other 1/350 scale kits. Seeing what they have done with the
>Armor and A/C releases why couldn't they put the some level of detail on

>the ship kits? I have already made my money from my line of DD445
>class ships. If I can put the detail on the kit why can't Tamiya?

>I don't buy the response that the detail can't be done after seeing the
>F-4 kit.

>BTW I made the change that would make a DD445 into a DD710. I made a


>completly new hull. I would expect nothing less.

>Mike


>TURKEY TROTS TO WATER GG FROM CINCPAC ACTION COM THIRD FLEET INFO CTF 77 X
>WHERE IS RPT WHERE IS TASK FORCE THIRTY-FOUR RR THE WORLD WONDERS.

Jennings, I rest


mont...@usit.net

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Aug 19, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/19/96
to

pl...@phoenix.net wrote:

> that it is _not_ USS North Carolina, sorry Jennings, but if you wish
> for North Carolina and I wish for South Dakota maybe we'll both
> get lucky... :-)

I've heard these two are on a list of to dos for one of the resin
companies within the next year.

James Corley

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Aug 19, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/19/96
to

In <4v7s2n$2...@newsbf02.news.aol.com> mbish...@aol.com (MBishop446)
writes:
>
>Guys,
>Did anyone bother to look at the blank doors on the deck level
stations?
>Did Anyone look at the 40mm gun. Piss poor if you must know the
truth.
>This kit is just as good as what Tamyia has already done some ten
years
>ago on the other 1/350 scale kits. Seeing what they have done with
the
>Armor and A/C releases why couldn't they put the some level of detail
on
>the ship kits? I have already made my money from my line of
DD445
>class ships. If I can put the detail on the kit why can't Tamiya?
>
>I don't buy the response that the detail can't be done after seeing
the
>F-4 kit.
>
>BTW I made the change that would make a DD445 into a DD710. I made a
>completly new hull. I would expect nothing less.

But Mike, can I get yours for $38, or can I get any replacement parts
from you. If you answer to this, it will be the first time you've ever
bothered to reply to my posts AND emails.

James Corley

unread,
Aug 19, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/19/96
to

In <3217A8...@gate.net> Jennings Heilig <jhe...@gate.net> writes:

> Because I suspect that if they had gone all the way and done the
full
>treatment the kit would have cost twice what it does. This falls into

>the same category as why we "need" (relative term) resin cockpits

[snip]

Yeah, I can get about 4 Tamiya Fletchers for the cost of one of Mike's.
Even if it is inaccurate, by his standards, maybe he is missing the
boat by not issuing his **excellent** photoetch from his Fletcher kit.
ditto for the Kingfisher conversion he has.


>whether it was .03" wider or narrower than it should be - I don't care

>*how* anal-retentive they are.
>
>Just my $.02 worth. I, for one, am very happy with the new Tamiya
>release, whether or not they ever do a Gearing.


I'll be happy when they finally get to Atlanta.....we ain't seen them
yet, was to be here Thursday, but nothing showed up. :(

James

-D.WELLS

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Aug 19, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/19/96
to

In article <NEWTNews.23885....@dialinxx.phoenix.net>,

<pl...@phoenix.net> wrote:
>
>In article <321467...@gate.net>, <jhe...@gate.net> writes:
>
> The possibly-mythical Jennings Heilig said:
>
>> Painting instructions are given (with only Tamiya
>> paint numbers of course) for the early dapple camouflage applied to
>> the class, and for the later Ms.22 scheme. I don't have a lot of
>> reference on the Fletchers, so I'm not sure what the actual colors
>> were for the dapple camo. Any experts??
>
> The Floating Drydock publication "United States Navy Camouflage 1
> of the WW2 Era" has details on USN painting schemes for the
> entire period. It mentions which colors went to make up each scheme,
> but the colors are only names - no FS references.

> They also have a color card showing the purple-blue greys used
> for most USN ships: pale gray, light gray, haze gray, ocean gray,
> navy gray (sic, I think they meant blue), and deck blue.

> Given that, and a desired scheme e.g. Ms 33/whatever, you should
> be able to come up with approximate equivalents in your favorite
> brand of paint. For example, I use Testor's MM 36375 as my
> equivalent for modern haze gray. Works for me.

Polly Scale has some US naval colors out now. Even around here, where
Floquil Marine Colors are rare, this stuff is available. They've got
a CORRECT (looks right to me, anyway) haze grey!! (no anti-fouling oxide
yet...) The bottles list the old Navy designations, such as 5-0, and the
Navy name for the color. The bottle lists an approximate FS number too.

> I only wish I could get something as close for RN and KM ships.
> My Tamiya Prince of Wales is nicely done up as of late 1941, but
> I'd like better info for Tirpitz, Yamato, Jean Bart, ... (Yes, David,
> I know, Krylon gray primer...)

Works great for Japanese ships. I suspect that it's similar to British
Home Fleet dark grey, too.

> For another for instance, I used Testor's intermediate blue and
> grey 36237 to do my USS Washington in 1942 Ms 12 mod. Note

> that it is _not_ USS North Carolina, sorry Jennings, but if you wish
> for North Carolina and I wish for South Dakota maybe we'll both
> get lucky... :-)

If somebody's smart, they'll do both, reusing lots of parts. Just about
all the guns could be reused. (unless they wanted to do a REALLY early
NC with the 1.1" guns) I've considered doing a 1/570 South Dakota with
a scratchbuilt hull, and other parts from a Revell North Carolina. Too
many other scratchbuild projects in front of it, though.

David R. Wells

"There seems to be something wrong | David R. Wells
with our bloody ships today" | AT&T (formerly Bell Labs) Holmdel, NJ
Adm. D. Beatty, May 31, 1916 | Email: drw...@hogpa.ho.att.com

DISCLAIMER: I don't speak for AT&T, and they don't speak for me.

GRBroman

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Aug 19, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/19/96
to

In article <4v7s2n$2...@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, mbish...@aol.com
(MBishop446) writes:

> I have already made my money from my line of DD445
>class ships. If I can put the detail on the kit why can't Tamiya?
>
>

Mike, I expect that Tamiya could have put more detail into the Fletcher
class, but then they would have cost as much as your kits do. :) I prefer
a good, inexpensive kit which I can add detail to. I mean no disrespect,
I love your stuff and I have purcheased a few, but the Tamiya ships will
fit into my budget much better. For that I can live with less detail.
Glen

MBishop446

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Aug 19, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/19/96
to

Why do a few of you think think that I'm crying about this kit. I will
release our brass kit for the Tamiya kit in a few weeks. I'm still going
to offer our kit for sale as well. My kit will be for the folks who want
a kit that can be built out of the box and be an award winner. True the
Tamiya kit costs less. True you will HAVE to buy brass for the kit. True
you will have to add the doors to your kit. The big difference in the two
kits is---- Our kit all the detail is done for you. Time is money as they
say. How much is your time worth. Our kit OOTB blows away the Tamiya
kit. But as I said I will release our brass set for the Tamiya kit too.

mont...@usit.net

unread,
Aug 20, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/20/96
to

mbish...@aol.com (MBishop446) wrote:

>Why do a few of you think think that I'm crying about this kit. I will
>release our brass kit for the Tamiya kit in a few weeks. I'm still going
>to offer our kit for sale as well. My kit will be for the folks who want
>a kit that can be built out of the box and be an award winner. True the
>Tamiya kit costs less. True you will HAVE to buy brass for the kit. True
>you will have to add the doors to your kit. The big difference in the two
>kits is---- Our kit all the detail is done for you. Time is money as they
>say. How much is your time worth. Our kit OOTB blows away the Tamiya
>kit. But as I said I will release our brass set for the Tamiya kit too.

Of course, with the proper research materials, even that pathetic
excuse for a kit that Tamiya's produced, using the grossly inaccurate
brass parts other manufacturers have made available, might just allow
you to be able to create an award winner, but who'd want a Fletcher
that you'd have to put work into. Let's face it, there's only one
"true" Fletcher kit out there on the market, so let's all write to
Tamiya and tell them not to release this kit, since nobody on this
side of the pond will purchase such a sub-standard product. Thank you
for setting all of us straight!

Sanartjam

unread,
Aug 20, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/20/96
to

On the subject of the new 1/350 Tamiya Fletcher, I talked to Bill Gruner
of Pacific Front Hobbies today and he says he has gotten some in. I'm
looking forward to seeing it, to say the least. I understand that Loren
Perry of Gold Medal Models is working on a photetched brass set for this
kit, and I also understand you can use one of the sets from Tom's
Modelworks.

The 1/700 Tamiya Fletcher is also out, but I haven't seen it yet. Hope
Tamiya starts doing a lot more warships in 1/350 and 1/700. Does anyone
know anything solid on what's up next?

For a much more esoteric subject, Bill Gruner says he has also gotten in
the 1/400 Mirage kit of the Polish World War II destroyer Grom. There are
now a lot of ship kits in that scale, especially with the Heller and Tauro
kits and some new cruiser kits in resin from the Czech manufacturer Samek.
I hope the rumor about Loren Perry doing a new 1/400 set of brass for
those kits is true.

Bill Guner's web site is not back up yet, but he asked me to pass on that
he can be reached at (206) 821-2564 or at 11804 NE 138th St., Kirkland WA
98034. His fax is (206) 821-9034, and I think his e-mail address is
pacf...@accessone.com.
I'm new to the Net, and it's great to see ship modelers out there.


Art Nicholson

Byron Bond

unread,
Aug 20, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/20/96
to

There is an excellent Squadron book - Fletchers in Action, and
Floquil/Polly Scale makes EXACT paint matches to all USN WWII colors in
both Floquil and acrylic formulas.

Byron


Painting instructions are given (with only Tamiya
> paint numbers of course) for the early dapple camouflage applied to
> the class, and for the later Ms.22 scheme. I don't have a lot of
> reference on the Fletchers, so I'm not sure what the actual colors
> were for the dapple camo. Any experts??

> Gold Medal Models is working feverishly on an early war and a late war
> brass set for this model, and by the time they dock in the U.S.
> (sorry, a little Navy humor there), the Gold Medal sets should be
> available.
>

> Jennings Heilig

pl...@phoenix.net

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Aug 20, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/20/96
to

In article <4v8ibh$1...@news.usit.net>, <mont...@usit.net> writes:



> mbish...@aol.com (MBishop446) wrote:
> >Guys,
> >Did anyone bother to look at the blank doors on the deck level stations?
> >Did Anyone look at the 40mm gun. Piss poor if you must know the truth.

> Jennings, I rest

Yah. I like BWN's kits. I have their Perry and Burke class kits (someday
I may even build them rather than stare at them :-). I will probably buy a
Gambier Bay for a friend, and I may even weaken for a Hornet when it
comes out. Maybe even a SoDak if it's out faster than the competition.

But... I want a good model with no glaring screwups that's easy to build.
And, cost effectiveness. The BWN kits have better detail than Tamiya,
but not, in most cases, enough to justify the extra $$$ _to_me_. Your
mileage may vary. I've got enough $$$ to buy anything I want, but that
doesn't mean I want to spend hundreds extra for a better 40mm gun.

Sheesh.

-- Allan Plumb (adp...@barrios.com is better)

(a 1/350 scale Littorio or Kongo, now, ...)


mont...@usit.net

unread,
Aug 21, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/21/96
to

Byron Bond <Bo...@Pfizer.com> wrote:

>There is an excellent Squadron book - Fletchers in Action, and
>Floquil/Polly Scale makes EXACT paint matches to all USN WWII colors in
>both Floquil and acrylic formulas.

>Byron

Hate to play color police here, but these colors are not exact
matches. First, they are supposed to be scale adjusted. Second, the
lighter colors have too much grey in them for a blue-based paint.
Third, there isn't any actual undeteiorated samples for them to be
matched to. This is not to say that these colors aren't the closest
to being correct that there is, since they are, and I'd highly
recommend them for use on that period of ship. However, using the
word exact to describe a set of colors long ago extinct is a little
too strong of a word.

James Corley

unread,
Aug 21, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/21/96
to

In <321A23...@Pfizer.com> Byron Bond <Bo...@Pfizer.com> writes:
>
>There is an excellent Squadron book - Fletchers in Action, and
>Floquil/Polly Scale makes EXACT paint matches to all USN WWII colors
in
>both Floquil and acrylic formulas.
>
>Byron
>
>

Yeah, but the kit we got at AAA yesterday was a 1/700 Tamiya Fletcher.
;(

When are the big'uns getting here?!

Shane Weier

unread,
Aug 23, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/23/96
to

MBishop446 wrote:
>
> My kit will be for the folks who want
> a kit that can be built out of the box and be an award winner. True the
> Tamiya kit costs less. True you will HAVE to buy brass for the kit. True
> you will have to add the doors to your kit. The big difference in the two
> kits is---- Our kit all the detail is done for you. Time is money as they
> say. How much is your time worth. Our kit OOTB blows away the Tamiya
> kit. But as I said I will release our brass set for the Tamiya kit too.
>
> Mike

Hot Damn !!

What a deal. Now what I really need from my hobby is someone to sell the kits to me
built up, weathered, entered in the IPMS Nats and prize pre-collected for me. NOT.

Maybe I actually like to make my own - and the time spent is money alright - paid
to me in pleasure and stress relief.

Shane

** BOB SIGMAN ***

unread,
Aug 23, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/23/96
to

I picked up a new paperback (magazine size) book last week
called: "The Painters Guide to World War Two Naval Camouflage", by
Patrick Hreachmack. It is published by Clash of Arms Publishers, so as
you might guess it is for 1/2400, 1/1200, up to 1/700 ships. While
not a substitute for the Floating Drydock books, it covers, the US, Brit
and Commonwealth, German, Italian, Japanese, Dutch, Polish, and Russian
Navies. It gives a description of the colors with matches to Floquil,
Humbrol,and MM paint lines. Notes on deck colors, aircraft colors, and
other tid bits are covered. As an example, Japanese ships colors depended
on the shipyard where they were built or repaired.
There are of course a lot of side views of camouflage schemes.
On the down side, since it is written for war gamers it covers lots
of schemes for ships not produced in plastic (3 pages of Tribal class
destryers) and omits popular plastic ships (Rodney, P of W,....). It
also notes FAA a/c as gray on top, which in that scale I guess XDSG and Slate
gray would look like ...gray. OTOH, the last 4 pages contain an extensive
list of references. At, $18.95 it isn't cheap, but it a good starter book.
Bob Sigman

--
*** BOB SIGMAN ***
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
uucp: ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!ae241bs
Internet: ae2...@prism.gatech.edu

Shane Weier

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Aug 23, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/23/96
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Paolo Pizzi

unread,
Aug 30, 1996, 3:00:00 AM8/30/96
to

James Corley wrote:
>
> In <321467...@gate.net> Jennings Heilig <jhe...@gate.net> writes:
> >
> >Just got the Tamiya Fletcher in 1/350 (yippee!),
>
> Jennings.....you left out the most important detail.....
>
> CAN WE AFFORD IT?????
>
> or, how much moolah will it set us back when we buy it anyway?!

$38

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