r.m.s FAQ - part 13 of 18 (11905)
Don_S...@transarc.com
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Part 13
** * How to make custom decals
** (Thanks to Roberto Lionello <lio...@arcetri.astro.it> for
** compliling this)
[Q] Could you give me some general information about making decals with
a computer?
[A] jhe...@gate.net (Jennings Heilig 4/95)
Being as how I do decal art using a computer for a living, let me shed a
little light on this subject matter. First, using the computer is no
different from doing decal layouts the old fashioned way, except it's
much easier, faster, and produces better results. That said, if you have
the ability to visualize what you want to produce and then have the
abilities on the software of your choice (Adobe Illustrator or Macromedia
Freehand in my case), then you can do your own decal art.
That's the easy part. The hard part is defining what you mean by
"decals". Traditionally, the decals that come in kits and about 90% of
aftermarket decals are printed by the silkscreen method. This is known
in printing circles as "spot color". This means that your drawing has to
be constructed just like the actual decal ink. For example, a British
roundel consists of a blue circle with the center punched out, white
behind that, and a red dot in the center. What you have to construct to
do silkscreen art is a blue circle that's hollow in the middle, a white
circle of slightly greater diameter than the *inside* diameter of the
blue circle (so that it lays completely underneath the blue), and then a
red circle in the middle. This is a *very* simple example, but you get
what I mean.
Other methods of printing decals involve what's known as four color
offset, or sometimes a process called "letterpress". Silkscreen decals
are printed on a silkscreen "press" similar to what your local t-shirt
maker uses. Of course, it's much more complex and fine-tuned than that,
but the principle is the same. The four color or letterpress decals are
printed on a traditional printing press with rollers, blankets, etc.,
just like your issue of FineScale Modeler.
All that being said, if want to "do it yourself" you're going to run into
a problem. The problem is that if you spend scads of time doing your
art, you won't be able to get anyone to print it for you unless you want
hundreds (or even thousands) of copies. All hope is not lost however, as
you *can* get "one offs" done by two other methods. The first and best
(and of course, most expensive) is to have custom dry transfers printed.
There are several people who do this type of thing (hello Woody?), one of
whom posts here regularly. The other method is to take your finished
artwork to someone who has a really expensive color copier hooked up to a
PC and have them run clear decal paper thru the copier. Color printers
usually won't work, as they're not designed to print on anything besides
regular paper. The color copier will generally print on decal film, but
most people won't risk voiding their warranty by running decal paper thru
it.
If anyone has any more questions, let me know...
[Q] Can I make custom decals with a graphics program and laser/inkjet printer?
[A] sa...@aol.com (Steve Brooks 3/95)
I read about making decals with clear decal paper and copiers. So, I
decided to try it with my laser printer.
What really got me started is the release of a font for the Air Force in
True Type format. This font is also
available for you Mac users. While looking for all the stuff to make this
project successful, I found that
Walthers make a copier/laser safe decal paper, so I ordered some.
I had a weekend project in progress so this would become the test site for
home made decals. This kit is the
Star Wars AT-AT. I thought it would look better with some decals.
The first step is to decide on what you want to print. I us MS Publisher
to print the decals. I set up one page
with five guide lines from left to right and six from top to bottom. This
allows me to make multiple passes on
one sheet of decal paper by working in one grid at a time and not waste
the decal paper. I work from the bottom
grids to the top grids. This allows the paper to move through the printer
without worrying about the set up.
Next put your graphics in an unused grid and print on plain paper. Check
for size and position on the decal
paper. When it's right print onto the decal paper. If your printer has a
flat path use that method, I do.
The second step is to apply the decals to the model. I cut the decals out
as close to the graphic as possible,
dipped in water and set on the bench to soak. The kit had been prepared
with a gloss coat of gull gray but and
clear coat should work. The area for the decal was wetted with water and
the decal applied. When in position,
the decal was blotted down. I tried Micro set with good results and
Solvoset with better results. There was no
major wrinkles, the ink did not run, and dried smooth.
The final step is the clear overcoat. I used future for the first coat.
The coverage was not even. It seems that
the ink repelled the future and left a blotchy appearance. I next tried
Testors Dulcoat. The results were better
but still not perfect. I expect the second coat will take care of the
problem.
Walthers decal paper comes in two sizes, 8.5x11 ($6.38) and 5x8 ($3.18)
each package has four sheets.
I used a LaserJet 4p to print my decals so test your own decals first.
[A] jgr...@aol.com (JGrease)
I have made decals the following way:
1- I used CorelDraw3 to set up the design I wanted, then printed color
copy onto regular 8.5 x 11 paper.
2- Took print and decal paper (Walthers 8.5 x 11 blank decal sheets) to
copy store with Canon color laser copier. Gave both to clerk, explained
which side of paper was up.
3- Got copies from clerk, paid, used decals on model car. The only catch
is that either the car (or model) is white, or you mount the decal onto
white decal paper then transfer the whole thing to your model.
Its cheap (about .99 for everything I can fit on that page), and it works.
If the copy store clerk sez no, find a place near an art school where they
cater to copying onto different paper types.
[A] stu...@aslvx1.sugar-land.anadrill.slb.com (Michael Stucker 6/95)
I recently made some custom decals on a color copier and thought
I would share my experience with the rest of you.
A couple years ago I picked up a 1/43 Verum diecast Porsche 917-10
Can-Am racer. It came with decals for some privateer
but I wanted to do it as the Penske L&M car that won the 1972
Can-Am championship. But what to do about decals?
About 6 months ago an acquaintance sent me a color copy of the decal
sheet from the UMi 1/24 version of this car. Last month I
finally got around to using it.
I went to a A&E Products (a graphic arts company in Houston)
to have the sheet shot down to 1/43 scale. The reduction factor
used was 56%, the closest they could get, as opposed to a truer
factor of 55.81395%. They used a Canon color copier.
After shooting several copies on paper to get the colors right,
I had them shoot three copies on decal film. The blank decal
sheets I used were from Walther's. Its available from
any decent model train shop. (If its not in stock, they can
order it.) Get the 8.5"x11" not the 6"x9". The copying
machine needs the sheet to be 8.5"x11". The price is $7.98
for 4 sheets.
The colors on the decal sheet are a little transparent and white
prints as clear. I was putting the decals on a white car so this
was not a problem.
Before using the decals I sprayed them with Krylon Workable Fixative
to help hold the toner to the film. (The toner can not be properly
fused to the decal as it is not porous as paper wood be.)
I'm about 85% finished decalling the car and the decals look good.
I have ruined a couple so it is good I shot 3 sets. I'll probably
use up parts of two sets. Be careful not to fold the decals too
sharpely (don't crease them) or the toner will flake off at that
point.
Do not use Solvaset on them. Microset seems to work well in helping
the decal lay down in tough areas. It takes several applications,
though.
Price was $6.35 for three copies. (I think they meant to charge me more,
though.) Someplace like Kinko's probably would have been cheaper but a
graphic artist friend of mine suggested I use A&E.
[A] cob...@aol.com (Pete Harlem 7/95)
Here's another way to make decals on your computer. This way does not
threaten the rollers and other expensive parts in your laser printer:
1) Draw what you want to have on a competant graphics program. For fine
detail vector graphics are best with a laser printer of high resolution,
however, you can do many, many things using a dot matrix printer and
bit-mapped graphics. The larger the decal, the easier it will be.
2) In your drawing program flip the artwork over.
3) Print it onto paper at full size (1/48 or whatever).
4) Use a non water base glue, like rubber cement, to stick the printout to
the back of a colored decal sheet. Obviously, the item you want should be
cut off the paper first to keep the size down.
5) Using scissors, cut along the dotted line, so to speak, and you have
one piece of your decal item.
6) Repeat for each piece you need, you have to do the registration for
complicated decals, but the results can be as good as you are with a pair
of sharp scissors.
Pete Harlem
[Q] Where can I get clear decal sheets?
[A] mark...@aol.com (Mark Cart 4/95)
I think you can get clear decal sheet through:
Super Scale International, Inc. {Formerly Microscale}
2211 Mouton Dr., Carson City, NV 89706
[A] y...@netcom.com (Yves G. Blanchard 6/95)
Airliners America/ATP
3014 Abelia Court
San Jose, Ca 95121
makes decal sheets for use with HP 550C injet printers. You have to
dry the printout immediately with a hair dryer to stop the ink from
forming globs. Then you clearcoat and apply like a normal decal. I paid
$3.00 for an 8 1/2 x 11 sheet (stock AD7208). They have a type of decal
sheet which goes in copying machine too.
If any of you try this product, please share your experience. I am
curious to know if it works with other inkjet printers, such as the Epson
stylus color in 728 x 728 mode.
[A] al...@sp-oae.demon.co.uk (John E Allen 7/95)
I use the Xtradecal clear from Hannants in the UK.
It can be photocopied and laser printed.
Hannants
29-31 Trafalgar Street
Lowestoft
Suffolk
NR32 2AT
Tel: +44 (0)1502 565688
Fax: +44 (0)1502 500521
[Q] When I print my decal ink balls up on large areas! How can I avoid this?
[A] maddm...@aol.com (MaddMat100 6/95)
Get a small amount of pumice powder from the pharmacy, and rub this around
on the decal paper with a small sponge before attempting to print.(Blow
off all of the remaining powder with compressed air... it's an abrasive
that can really mess up your printer if you're not careful) This dulls the
surface enough to give the ink a "tooth" to bite into.
[Q] Water smears ink on my home made decals! How can I avoid this?
[A] maddm...@aol.com (MaddMat100 6/95)
A coat of MicroScale's Superfilm, airbrushed on, stops this.