Ship Modeling FAQ, Part 01/18 (Contents, where to find FAQ: 12K)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part01
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, January 3 1997 00:00:00 GMT
Last-modified: 18 November 1996
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 01) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The set of FAQs is, quite frankly, oriented toward access using a
"World Wide Web Browser" (e.g, Netscape, Mosaic, Internet Explorer,
etc.); reading it with such a tool you'll find "links" to other sites
of interest.
{ A note about the addresses presented. When I show:
http://www.seaways.com/faq/faqind.html
...that is interpreted as:
http:// www.seaways.com /faq/faqind.html
^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
| | |_ the path to the file
| |__ the Internet address
|___ the method - in this case, HTTP
....these are shown in this way so that people viewing this FAQ
using a World Wide Web browser -such as Netscape or Mosaic- can
simply click on these addresses to go there.
NOTE: I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
regular basis. Thus, I may not know if they "disappear". If
you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
please send me Email at: mailto:ko...@aimnet.com ; I'll check it
out and delete the reference if it's really gone. Thanks.
}
Disclaimer: My personal experience is with traditional, static wooden
ship models. Thus the answers below lean toward that aspect. PLEASE
feel free to provide me with information on other aspects (e.g.,
plastic ship models, etc.).
NOTE: New material each month is flagged with the string "*NEW*".
CONTENTS
========
(FAQ Part 01):
Table of Contents
0. Where is the FAQ?
Contributers
(FAQ Part 02):
PREPARATION
1. I don't have the patience to build a ship model (?)
2. Where do I get started in making rc model boats?
3. What is a good beginner's model kit to start with?
4. Whats the difference between "bread-and-butter", plank-on-
bulkhead, and plank-on-frame construction?
5. What's the difference between Beginner, intermediate, or
advanced Kits?
6. What experience have other modelers had with the European kits?
7. What tools do I need to get started?
(FAQ Part 03):
8. What scale should I use?
9. How does one change the scale of plans?
10. What woods are recommended?
11. Is CA glue reliable?
THE HULL
12. How do I scratch-build a modern hull?
(FAQ Part 04):
13. How do I bend wood for a ship model?
14. How do I use paper templates to check the hull shape?
15. How do I cutting the bevel(s) on a bulkhead/frame of a model?
16. What is accurizing?
17. How do I Clean up Ship Decks?
(FAQ Part 05):
18. How do you drill the mast holes in a solid-hull ship model?
DETAILS
19. I'm looking for a source of sheet copper for plating a model?
20. How is the copper applied?
21. How do I make small, inexpensive cast plastic fittings?
(FAQ Part 06):
22. Has anybody got a recipe for chemical blackener? (To blacken
brass and other metals)
23. Does anyone have any experience and/or tips on how to use slide
cover glass to make windows?
24. How does one work with "real" scale rivets?
25. What is "lead sickness"?
PAINTING
26. Should models be painted or left natural wood?
27. What colors are appropriate for 16th-17th century ships?
28. I painted the (Cutty Sark) hull and found that the Testors paint
is difficult to use and not see brushmarks. Any advice?
(FAQ Part 07):
29. Am modeling a Fletcher and need up to date colors etc.?
30. What colors to use on the Revell(?) PT-109?
31. What are the correct USN Camouflage Measures?
32. How do you paint and mask camouflage detail?
33. How do I translate Tamiya color numbers to Model Master #?
34. How do I make a realistic calm sea for a scene?
35. Where can I get 1/72 scale coast guard decals?
(FAQ Part 08):
RIGGING
36. What can be used for fine rigging line?
37. How does one assemble rigging?
38. How do I install ratlines?
39. Do ratlines extend beyond the futtock shrouds to the lubbers
hole? Is the futtock shroud tied directly to the main shroud?
40. Why do I have more lines than points to belay them to?
41. How can rigging line be made to hang naturally?
42. How do I eliminate the fuzz on model rigging?
43. How do I build small blocks for model sailing ships?
44. What do I use for sails?
(FAQ Part 09):
45. What is the best material for sails?
OTHER STUFF...
46. What is meant by "Museum Quality" ship models?
47. How do I clean a model?
48. Where can I find plans for the Frigate (HMS) Rose?
49. How do I get a ship model appraised (for insurance purposes)?
50. I'am looking for info or suggestings on model subs?
51. Why do {your choice} cost so much?
(FAQ Part 10):
52. How big should a case be?
53. When should I use "English" or "Metric" measurements?
(FAQ Part 11):
100. Are there any ship modeling clubs?
(FAQ Part 12 & 13):
(FAQ Part 12):
101. Where can I find... ?
101-A. RECOMMENDED BEGINNER KITS
101-B: KITS, FITTINGS, ETC.
101-C. TOOLS
(FAQ Part 13):
101-D. LUMBER & OTHER MATERIALS
101-E. MISCELLANEOUS
101-F. SHIP MODEL and MARITIME DEALERS, APPRAISERS, BUILDERS,
CONSERVERS
(FAQ Part 14):
102. Where can I find information... ?
102-A: BOOK COMPANIES
102-B. MAGAZINES & PUBLICATIONS
102-C. PLANS
102-D. SOURCES FOR PHOTOGRAPHS
102-E. GENERAL
102-F. INSTITUTIONS
(FAQ Part 15):
103. What are some good books... ?
(FAQ Part 16):
104. What's available on the Internet?
(FAQ Parts 176 & 18):
105. What's available on the WWW?
(The latter six questions have disjoint numbering so I won't have to
renumber frequently.)
###############################################
0. Where is the FAQ?
A: The FAQ is posted at the beginning of each month. It goes to
news:rec.models.scale. The FAQs also go to news:news.answers
and news:rec.answers, which most sites tend to keep around for
a while. They are archived at (access via FTP):
ftp://ftp.uu.net/usenet/news.answers/ship-models-faq (.ZIP files)
-or at-:
ftp://mirrors.aol.com/pub/rtfm/usenet/rec.models.scale
-or at-:
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.models.scale (.ZIP files)
-- or via WWW at:
http://www.seaways.com/faq/faqind.html
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/ship-models-faq/
Alternative FTP sites (these tend to be old copies) are:
Europe: ftp://ftp.uni-paderborn.de/pub/FAQ/rec.models.scale
ftp://ftp.Germany.EU.net/pub/newsarchive/news.answers/ship-models-faq
ftp://ftp.sunet.se/pub/usenet/rec.models.scale
-- or via WWW at:
http://www.cs.ruu.nl/wais/html/na-dir/ship-models-faq/.html
Asia: ftp://ftp.hk.super.net/mirror/faqs/ship-models-faq
E-MAIL:
------
If you do not have http or anonymous ftp access, RTFM.MIT.EDU can send
the FAQ to you via email. Send e-mail to:
mailto:MAIL-...@RTFM.MIT.EDU
...subject ignored, and the body containing:
HELP
...for instructions.
CONTRIBUTERS
============
The following people have contributed to this FAQ:
Seth Adams mailto:ada...@popalex1.linknet.net
John Berg mailto:p00...@psilink.com
Mike Bishop mailto:mbish...@aol.com
William Blakely
David Blanchard mailto:ja...@midcoast.com
John Beaderstadt mailto:be...@together.net
William E. Boebert mailto:boe...@swcp.com
Denis Bohm http://www.gremlins.com
Byron Bond mailto:Bo...@Pfizer.com
John Bonnett
Bill Boyd mailto:wc...@ghgcorp.com
John Buehler mailto:joh...@microsoft.com
Thomas Burkman Sr. mailto:BWF...@prodigy.com
Burl Burlingame
Phil Campbell mailto:pcam...@netside.com
Monica Chaban mailto:SR...@AIS.UCLA.EDU
Bev Clark
Anita Cohen-Williams mailto:an...@POP.LOOP.COM
Graham Collins mailto:c...@ViaNet.on.ca
Derek Conlon mailto:der...@infobahnos.com
David Cooper
James Corley mailto:jdco...@ix.netcom.com
Chuck Cowman mailto:nn...@bcstec.ca.boeing.com
Simon Craven mailto:scle...@aol.com
Bob Cunningham mailto:rcun...@cswnet.com
Paul Darrah mailto:pd...@dlep1.itg.ti.com
Kerry David mailto:knd...@indirect.com
Thomas Dean mailto:tom....@sympatico.ca
Brett W. Denner mailto:denn...@lfwc.lockheed.com
Tom Dougherty mailto:Ive...@aol.com
Ken Duffey mailto:K.Du...@ncs.nerc.ac.uk
Jim Eagle mailto:ea...@castle.net
Sten Ekedahl mailto:rt...@mn.medstroms.se
Dale Elhardt mailto:la...@aol.com
Clayton A. Feldman mailto:clay...@best.com
Rick Fortenberry mailto:wha...@aol.com
Steve Gallacci
Ron Ginger mailto:gin...@pcm.ultranet.com
Ron Giuntini
Robert Godfrey mailto:rgod...@sound.net
J. Gordon mailto:jgord...@aol.com
J. J. Gordon Jr. mailto:ma...@ix.netcom.com
"GRN BERET" mailto:grnb...@aol.com
Phil Gustafson mailto:ph...@rahul.net
David C Graf mailto:graf...@gold.tc.umn.edu
Kurt Greiner (Seaphoto) mailto:SeaP...@gnn.com
W. Hannan mailto:WHann...@aol.com
Paul & Victoria Heisner
Greg Herbert, D.V.M. mailto:gir...@erols.com
Hovard Houen mailto:ho...@sn.no
John Huggins
Kerry L. Jang mailto:kj...@unixg.ubc.ca
Dan Johnston mailto:Dan.Jo...@nrc.ca
Stanley Kempner mailto:st...@icanect.net
Steve Kennedy
Olaf Kievit
John O. Kopf mailto:ko...@aimnet.com
V.L. Kraut
Kevin Lambie mailto:ke...@gwnsys.ca
Ben Langford mailto:ben...@erols.com
Mark Lardas mailto:MLa...@ptxecrc.com
Pete Law mailto:ll...@iu.net
Michael Long mailto:ML...@UConnVM.UConn.Edu
David Loseke
Abe Lynn
Andrew Madison mailto:mad...@nexen.com
Dave Mainwaring mailto:mainw...@cybercom.net
Graham Mansell mailto:cv...@FreeNet.Carleton.CA
Bob Marek mailto:bo...@loc3.tandem.com
Eugene S. Martin mailto:KGP...@prodigy.com
Mickey Martelle mailto:mm...@vivanet.com
Dana L. McCalip mailto:dmcc...@synet.net
Raymond J. Mehlberger mailto:rese...@dhinternet.com
Charles Metz mailto:c-m...@uchicago.edu
Bill Michaels
mailto:bill...@tiac.net
Gary Newman mailto:BNT...@prodigy.com
William Nichols
Peng F. Mok mailto:pm...@nyquist.ee.ualberta.ca
Dan Pariser mailto:Ship...@aol.com
Fred Petillo mailto:FR...@MACC.WISC.EDU
J.L. Pickstock mailto:J.L.Pi...@lut.ac.uk
Allan "battleships!" Plumb
Tim Philp
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Marc Raiff mailto:mra...@worldnet.att.net
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Joseph W. Reyna mailto:re...@nosc.mil
Jim Roberts mailto:SSBNd...@aol.com
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Martin Sagara
SALT 6 mailto:sa...@aol.com
Staale Sannerud mailto:sst...@oslonett.no
Bob Santos mailto:San...@aol.com
Don Schmidt mailto:Don_S...@transarc.com
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Dave Seuferling
Cookie Sewell mailto:amp...@aol.com
Bob Sigman mailto:ae2...@prism.gatech.edu
Jack Silvia mailto:Jsi...@aol.com
Mark Shannon mailto:shin...@ix.netcom.com
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Bob Steinbrunn mailto:Tbm...@aol.com
Dan Sullivan
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Aaron Taylor
George Wallace
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Jon Warneke (REDBOZO6) mailto:mont...@usit.net
David R. Wells
Mark S. Wheeler mailto:ma...@waterw.com
Michael A. Wolf mailto:da_w...@digital.net
Dave Wilke mailto:dave...@netcom.com
Paul Wilson
Woody Vondracek mailto:cor...@nando.net
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part11
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, January 3 1997 00:00:00 GMT
Last-modified: 18 November 1996
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 11) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
100. Are there any ship modeling clubs?
List last updated 3 March 1996. (Note: entries sorted by ZIP code)
***(Also look in the back of Scale Ship Modeler Magazine. They have a
large listing of the more prominant ship modeling clubs in Canada and
the USA. -- contributed by: mailto:dav...@cml.com)
USS Constitution Model Shipwright Guild of New England Massachusetts
Meetings: 1st Tuesday of the Month
Contact: Robert D. Laslocky
16A Mayberry Dr.
Westborough, MA 01581-1342
mailto:74562...@compuserve.com
Cape Ann Ship Modelers' Guild Massachusetts
Meetings: 2nd Monday of each month, 7:30 pm
Contact: Secretary, Cape Ann Ship Modelers' Guild, Inc.
R57 Washington St.
Gloucester, MA 01930
The Marine Modelers Club of New England Massachusetts
Contact: Dean Jernstrom
838 Pond St.
Franklin, MA 02038 (508) 520-0340
Jamaica Pond Modelers' Club Massachusetts
Meetings: Saturdays, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m.
Contact: Joe Perez
P. O. Box 222
Jamaica Plain, MA 02130
Downeast Shipmodeler's Guild Maine
Contact: David Blanchard
87 Pearl St.
Camden, ME 04843-1921 (207) 236-6468
mailto:ja...@midcoast.com
Connecticut Marine Model Society Connecticut
Meetings: 2nd Friday of each month at 8:00 p.m., in Maxie Hall,
Room 103 at the University of New Haven, New Haven, CT
Contact: Richard Alexander
15 Ferryview Dr.
Gales Ferry, CT 06335 (203) 464-7462
South Orange Seaport Society New Jersey
Contact: John Gill
5 Mead St.
South Orange, NJ 07079 (201) 770-1784
Philadelphia Ship Model Society Pennsylvania
Contact: Richard M. Austin
21 Lafferty Dr.
Cherry Hill, NJ 08002
Garden State Model Boaters New Jersey
Contact: Dave Kammerer
371 Euclid Ave.
Managsquam, NJ 08736
Ship Lore and Model Club New York
Meetings: 2nd Monday of each month
Contact: Norman Brouwer
South Street Seaport Museum
207 Front Street
New York NY 10038
The Ship Model Society of Northern New Jersey New Jersey
Meetings: 4th Tuesday of each month, Millburn Public Library
Contact: Dan Pariser
75 Livingston St. #10A
Brooklyn, NY 11201 (718) 855-1720
Model Shipcraft Guild of New York New York
Meetings: 3rd Tuesday of each month, 7:30-10:30 p.m., Battery
Park Building (next to Staten Island Ferry Slip in
Manhattan)
Contact: John Mango
2012 60th St.
Brooklyn, NY 11204
-or- George D'Elia (201) 332-5631
Long Island Ship Model Society New York
Meetings: 2nd Wednesday of each Month at 8 p.m.
Contact: Hal Bosche
90 North Ocean Avenue
Islip, NY 11751
Catskill Scale Model Shipwrights New York
Contact: Joe Callejo
408 A Spillway Road
West Hurley, NY 12491
Buffalo Model Powerboat Club New York
Contact: Karl Kalb
2960 Pearce Road
North Tonawanda, NY 14120 (716) 731-9717
Task Force 50 Pennsylvania
Contact: Thomas Fooler
RD #6, Box 56
York, PA 17404 (717) 792-1831
Valley Forge Ship Model Society Pennsylvania
Contact: Ernest Morris
R.D. #4, Box 82
Spring City Road,
Phoenixville, PA 19460-1848 (215) 948-8107
Friends of the Schooner Model Society *NEW*
http://www.netcharts.com/schooner/
Contact: Commodore:
Melvin A. Conant
P.O. Box 181
Lusby, MD 20657 weekdays: (202) 289-8970
weekends: (410) 326-6835
Maryland Attack Group Maryland
Purpose: Model boating (Mainly R/C combat with the IR/CWCC format)
Contact: Martin Hayes,
1113 Crestview Dr.,
Annapolis, MD 21401
St. Michaels Model Boat Club *NEW* Maryland
http://www.netcharts.com/st.michaels/
Contact: Commodore :
Robert L. Roberts
P.O. Box 781
Easton, Md. 21601 (410) 822-0943
Washington Ship Model Society Virginia
Meetings: 2nd Tuesday of each month
Contact: Gene Larson
9223 Presidential Drive
Alexandria, VA
22309
Historical Minatures Modeling Club Virginia
Contact: Brian Starkes
601 Bond Av.
Chesapeake, VA 23323 (804) 487-3951
Hampton Roads Ship Model Society Virginia
Meetings: 20:00 hours, 2nd Friday of each month
Contact: Alan Frazer
108-G Indian Summer Drive
Yorktown, VA 23693-1034
Carolina Maritime Society North Carolina
Meetings: Last Saturday of each month at 2 pm in the North Carolina
Maritime Museum
Contact: North Carolina Maritime Museum
315 Front Street
Beaufort, NC 28516-2125 (919) 728-7317
Jacksonville Ship Model Club Florida
Meetings: 2nd Tuesday of each month
Contact: Jacksonville Maritime Museum
1015 Museum Drive, Unit 2
Jacksonville, FL 32207
North Palm Beach County Model Club Florida
Contact: Dan Seaman
119 Brookhaven Ct.
Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33418 (407) 622-8358
Tampa Bay Ship Model Society Florida
Meetings: 7:00 p.m., 4th Tuesday of each month in the Bayonet Point
Community Center in Tampa, Florida.
Contact: Walker Roberts
Box 4148
Tampa, FL 33677 (813) 875-3422
Old Frigates Ship Modelers Florida
Meetings: 1st Thursday of each month
Contact: (352) 854-7713; -or- (352) 854-8147
The Southwest Florida Shipmodeler's Guild. Florida
Meetings: Every 4th Thursday at 2PM at The Golden Gate Community
Center, Naples, FL
Contact: John Weliver, 6552 Highland Pines Cir.
Ft. Myers, FL 33912 (941) 561 5777
*NEW* -or- mailto:JCW...@aol.com
Suncoast Ship Model Society of Spring Hill Florida
Meetings: 7:00 pm at Week Wuchse Acres Senior Citizen Club
Contact: Neil A. Brothers
9096 Jena Rd.
Spring Hill, FL 34608 (352) 686-8640
Maritime Modelers Inc. Kentucky
Meetings: Every 2nd Thursday, Covington Fire Fighters Building
Howell Ave. and 23rd St, Covington KY 7 p.m.
Contact: Maritime Modelers Inc.
63 Linet
Highland Heights, KY 41076
Columbus Santa Maria Model Ship Builders Guild Ohio
Contact: Columbus Santa Maria Model Ship Builders Guild
c/o Richard J. Lott
4567 Westport Road, Apt. 3
Columbus, OH 43228 (614) 279-3459
Society of Model Shipcrafters of Great Lakes Historical Society Ohio
Contact: Bill Halen
4038 Ridge Rd. #4
Brooklyn, OH 44144 (216) 351-6632
The Admirals Indiana
Meetings: 2nd Thursday of each month, 6:30 pm, at Nora Public
Library, 8625 Guilford Avenue, Indianapolis, IN 46143
Contact: Earl L. Cotton (317) 888-8575
Midwest Model Shipwrights Illinois
Meetings: 3rd Wednesday of each month
Contact: The Ship Chandler
518 E. Northwest Highway
Mt. Prospect, IL 60056
North Shore Deadeyes Illinois
Meetings: 1st Tesday of each month
Contact: Raymond Kartasuk
10 Ashfield Ct.
Lincolnshire, IL 60069 (847) 821-0110
Nautical Research and Ship Model Society Illinois
Meetings: 2nd Saturday of each month, @ 7:30 pm at the Rich Port
YMCA at Ogden Avenue at LaGrange Road, LaGrange, Il
Contact: Dana McCalip
6849 S. Keeler Ave.
Chicago, IL 60629 mailto:dmcc...@g30.synet.net
Gateway Model Ship Crafters Missouri
Meetings: At the Rock Road Library one Monday evening each month,
September through May.
Contact: Irwin Kuehling
541 Beuford Dr.
St. Louis, MO 63122-1413 (314) 644-3905
Kansas City Square Riggers Missouri
Contact: Paul Gagne
13604 Bennington St.
Grandview, MO 64030-3212 (816) 765-3977
Tulsa Ship Modeler's Society Oklahoma
Contact: Dan Allis
1631 East 31st St.
Tulsa, OK 74105-2100 (918) 747-6286
Houston Model Yacht Club Texas
Meetings: weekly; they have scale R/C regattas and race 12M and
36/600 yachts.
Contact: Commodore Ted Cooper
1003 Country Club Dr.
Houston, TX 77469 (713) 342-1658
Rocky Mountain Shipwrights Colorado
Meetings: 2nd Saturday of each month (9:30-noon) at Castlewood
Public Library in Englewood, CO
Contact: Bruce Bollenbach
8046 Lee Ct.
Arvada, CO 80005 (303) 424-8578
-or- Dr. Bob Roberts (719) 481-2449
Maritime Modelers California
Contact: Maritime Modelers
2554 Lincoln Blvd, Suite 215
Marina Del Ray, CA 90291
Ship Modelers' Association California
Meetings: 3rd Wednesday of each month, 7 pm, Backs Community Blg.,
201 N. Bradford, Placentia, CA
Contact: Bill Russell
19705 S. Moorshire Dr.
Cerritos, CA 90703
San Diego Ship Modelers' Guild California
Meetings: 3rd Thursday, 3:00 p.m., Bark STAR OF INDIA
Contact: SDSMG, c/o San Diego Maritime Museum
1306 North Harbor Drive
San Diego, CA 92101
Ventura County Maritime Museum Model Guld California
Meetings: 3rd Tuesday of the month at 7:00 pm
Contact: Clare Hess, VCMM Model Guild,
2731 South Victoria Ave.,
Oxnard, CA 93035
(805) 684-3673 (eve. and weekends)
South Bay Model Shipwrights California
Meetings: 3rd Friday of Each Month, at the Stamford Linear
Accelerator
Contact: Jean Eckert
1623 Ben Roe Dr.
Los Altos, CA 94024 (415) 964-0561
=or= http://home.earthlink.net/free/gswiercz1/webdocs/sbms.html.
Diablo Model Boat Club California
Contact: Bill Vanderslick
Diablo Model Boat Club
411 Melinda Court
Pittsburg, CA 94585-3424 (510) 458-4745
Metro Marine Modelers Ontario, Canada
Contact: Dan Sinstead
General Delivery
18 Reid St.
Bobcaygeo
Ontario, Canada K0M 1A0
Provincial Marine 1812 Ontario, Canada
Meetings: 3rd Thursday of each month (except Jun/Jul/Aug) at:
HMCS York, 695 Lakeshore Blvd, West Toronto, Ont., Canada
Contact: Al Griffiths
57 Thicket Rd.
Etobicoke
Ontario, Canada M9C 2C4
Winnipeg Model Boat Club Manitoba, Canada
Contact: Bob Russell (204) 775-9887
Saskatoon Model Boat Club Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Contact: Peter Lambe *NEW*
mailto:la...@sk.sympatico.ca
Alberta Ship Model Society Alberta, Canada
Meetings: 2nd Tuesday of each month, 7 pm, NMSC NUNSUCH,
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Contact: Alan Thain
5 Gilmore Ave.
Sherwood Park
Alberta, Canada T8A 2X7
The Kelowna Model Boat Club British Columbia, Canada
Contact: Joh H. Harland
448 Avery Rd.
RR #4 S2C16
Kelowna BC V1Y 7R3 (604) 764-7364
Victoria Model Shipbuilding Society British Columbia, Canada
Meetings: Second Thursday of each month; In Summer, at large model
pond; in Winter, at Royal Oak Scout Hall.
Contact: Box 45083
Mayfair Postal Outlet
Victoria, BC, Canada V8Z 7G9
North Western Model Shipwright's Association England
Meetings: Saturdays at 11:00 am at Edge Hill Cottage, Chorley
Contact: H. R. Snape, Chairman
10 Wendover Rd.
Carleton
Poulton-le-Fylde, England FY6 7PT
The Scale Sailing Association England
Contact: The Scale Sailing Association
14 Palace Road
Crouch End
London N8 8QJ
England
Society for Nautical Research England
*NEW* (Publishes "Mariner's Mirror"; membership US $50)
Contact: Membership Secretary is:
M P J Garvey FCA
Stowell House
New Pond Hill
Cross in Hand
Heathfield
East Sussex TN21 0LX
England
NAUTICAL SOCIETIES
==================
Nautical Research Guild (U. S.) $30.00 membership
Publishes the quarterly journal Nautical Research Journal
Contact: Nautical Research Guild
19 Pleasant Street
Everett, MA 02149 (617) 389-2505
Scale Ship Modeler's Association
Clubs interested in becoming members should contact:
Matt O'Neill, SSMA Club Director
1880 Emmanual Church Rdd
Huntington, Maryland 20639
International R/C Warship Combat Club *NEW*
http://www.netcharts.com/warship
Contact: Treasurer:
Ronny Hunt
2611 Stratford Drive
Greensboro, NC 27408
Ships-In-Bottles Association Of America California
Contact: Don Hubbard
P. O. Box 180550
Coronado, CA 92178-0550
The SubCommittee
http://www.wolfsong.com/SubCommittee/
Deals with submarines of all nations and all eras, including
Science Fiction.
Contact: Lester E. Hopper, Membership Chairman
3530 Mimosa Court
New Orleans, LA 70131-8305 (504) 392-8937 FAX
Society for Nautical Research
Publishes the quarterly journal The Nariner's Mirror
Contact: Hon. Secretary Derek G. Law, Librarian
King's College London, University of London
Strand
London WC2 2LS
England
Nautical Archaeology Society
Publishes the quarterly journal International journal of Nautical
Archaeology and Underwater Exploration in association with
Academic press.
Contact: Institute of Archaeology
Gordon Square
London WC1H OPY
England
Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau
German. Publishes the quarterly journal Das Logbuch.
Foreningen Allmogebatar
Swedish. Publishes the quarterly journal Trabiten.
Klubb Maritim
Swedish. Publishes the journal Batologen six times per year.
Kontaktudvalget for dansk maritim historie- og samfundsforskning
Danish. Publishes the anual yearbook Martim Kontakt.
Marinehistorisk Selskab
Danish. Publishes the quarterly journal Marinehistorisk Tidskrift.
Contact: Marinehistorisk Selskab, Overgaden oven Vandet 58,
DK-1415 K&oslas; benhaven K, Denmark
Marinarkeologiska Samfundet
Swedish. Publishes the quarterly journal Marinarkeologisk Tidskift.
Sjo Samfundet
Swedish. Publishes the annual yearbook Forum Navale.
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part10
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, January 3 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 10) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
52. As I prepare for the final rigging on my Thermopylae, I begin
to wonder about a display case. Are there any rules-of-thumb
regarding how much larger than a model's maximum dimensions a
case should be? Certainly too large a case would swallow a
model, but I would imagine one would not want to crowd a model
in a small case. (Bill Boyd)
A: My case-maker tells me "the case should be in proportion to
the model". He's a bit vague on this, but when I get a case
from him, I find he's left about an inch on each end of the
model, an inch on each side, and about two inches on the top.
Just to add something, I asked him for a formula to determine
the cost of a case, maybe something likes L + W + H x some $
figure. I got a similarly vague answer, something like "Well,
it depends..." :) Case-makers can be as persnickety as we
shipmodelers. (Rick Fortenberry)
***I have found that about 1.5"on each dimension of the ship
is fine. By that I mean right and left, front and back, top.
If the main spar is 13" wide the case would be 16" wide.
I no longer put my ships in cases and have gotten rid of the
cases I had. They are cumbersome, take up too much room, and
preclude really viewing the model. With the feather duster
and vaccuums I have, the ships are perfectly clean and dust
free. It takes very little effort or time to keep them that
way.
Try it, you can always put a case around the model.
(Stan Kempner)
***Case maker George M. creations, who advertise in Ships in
Scale, recommends 2 inches of clearance all around (length,
width, and height) your model in his nicely done brochure. He
offers custom-built as well as standard size cases in red oak
and mahogany. He, and several other case makers do have a
standard formula for determining case pricing. Measuring case
length, plus width, plus height yields a number of Unit Inches,
times so much per unit inch (depending on material of your
choice) equals price.
Addendum to case pricing: I had a red oak case made by
George M. Creations which I was very happy with. I thought
two inches clearance all around was excessive and would yield
a case which would overpower the model visually as well as
being more expensive. I settled on one inch clearance, and I
have to be VERY careful when casing and uncasing the model.
The case is heavy and has a propensity for swinging into yards
and rigging. (Bob Steinbrunn)
***I have done a lot of looking at this particular thing. What
I look for is to be able to see the entire craft if you are a
little to the side of the case. I concluded that a case about
3" longer on each end is adequate. So if model is 30", make
the case 36". The front is the same but not as much. I use a
case about 2 to 2-1/2" on each side wider. Model ( say the
main yard, is 10 inches. Make the case 15" wide. I have made
many cases and most models look fairly good in these
restrictions. (Ben Langford)
***I find that about 1 inch between the model and the case on
ALL sides is about right. However, I find that the model
looks beter if there is a 2 inch gap at the bow...it gives the
impression that the model has somewhere to "go". (John O. Kopf)
53. I think a brief discussion of "English vs. Metric" system of
*NEW* measurement and the trade offs for each as it is pertains to
ship modelers and other modelers in general is appropriate to
this forum. (Dana L. McCalip)
A: The metric system was invented in France in the 1790's as part
of the "New Age" thinking that swept France in the wake of the
Revolution. Tallyrand was instrumental in providing the impetus
to develop a new system, but it was actually the brainchild of
the French Academy of Sciences. The basic premise was to make
the standard unit of measurement, the meter, equal to one ten-
millionth of the distance from the North Pole to the Equator
along a meridian that bisected Paris. Only problem was, they
goofed up the calculation. The result is that the meter doesn't
really represent anything, and is just as arbitrary a unit as
the English foot. Thanks to the precision of modern science,
and the tenacity of those dedicated to validating the metric
system, the meter is currently defined as 1,650,763.73
wavelengths of the orange-red line of the spectrum of krypton-
86 measured in a vacuum. . . . (riiigghhtttt. . .). The new
system was implemented in the 1790's, but when Napoleon came to
power, he threw it out and restored the old system. It wasn't
until 1840 or so that the metric system was reinstated.
What makes the metric system so attractive to the world in
general is its base 10 foundation. This appeals to almost
anyone who has had 8, 10 or 12 or more years of mathematical
education in a base ten system. In actuality, for those
individuals who are learning a system of measurement for the
first time, namely your average 6 or 7 year old, this
educational foundation of base ten math doesn't exist, so the
metric system is actually no easier for them to learn from
scratch than an arbitrary "customary" system such as English.
In fact, some studies have shown that many children have
difficulty grasping the concept of decimals, so, in fact,
metric may actually be harder for children to grasp than a
completely arbitrary system would be.
The metric system works just as well as any other in the every
day world of business and technology, but it is really no more
accurate than any other established and defined system.
(Although many technologies and businesses still refuse to
convert. My company just landed a large contract to provide
valves to the European Space Agency for their laboratory module
for the International Space Station. It is our fourth Space
Station contract. We were literally the only company in the
world that could provide the product and performance required,
within the cost/delivery window. The irony is that the ESA is
going to get its valves designed, engineered and manufactured
to the English system of measurement) Yet, for some strange
reason, people think that it is more accurate, just because it
appears to be more "logical". The fact is, the accuracy of any
system of measurement depends on how precisely its basic units
are defined and standardized, NOT what their mathematical
relationship is to each other. You could devise a system of
measurement based on the length of the standard eggplant. As
long as you defined and standardized that unit precisely enough,
it would be as "accurate" as any other system.
However, metric is not as well suited to scale modeling as is
the English system, particularly where the beginning modeler is
concerned.
Consider: The smallest usable metric division that can be
printed on a scale or ruler is one millimeter. This equals
roughly 3/64" (.046"). The next smaller division would be 1/10
of a millimeter, or .0046", less than five one-thousandths of
an inch. It would literally be impossible to print divisions
this small on a ruler and even if you could, who the hell could
differentiate them well enough to make an accurate measurement
mark? Yet, anyone who works in modeling scales of 1/4"=1' (or
1:50) or smaller knows that it is frequently necessary to
measure and mark distances in the range of 32's or 64's of an
inch (1/3 to 2/3 of a millimeter). In the English system, a
modeler can take measurements in this size range with a good
old inexpensive ruler. In the metric system you need a
(relatively) more expensive metric caliper to do the same,
because standard units in this range don't exist.
Most of the modelers on this list are building or are going to
build models of British, American and/or Canadian vessels of
whatever era. The prototypes of these models were all designed,
"engineered" (as applicable) and built to the standard English
system of measurement (French, Danish, Swedish and Spanish ships
of the 18th Century and earlier were all built on different
systems of measurements based on their own standard "foot," all
of which varied). Many of the full-sized dimensions in these
vessels are fractionalized to begin with. By first scaling these
dimensions down and then attempting to convert them to metric,
you are creating a mess of minute fractionalized units and/or
strings of decimal numbers which simply cannot be measured in
the metric system with any degree of accuracy. (Remember, I
said that ANY system is just as accurate as any other as long
as the standards of the system are well maintained and sharply
defined.) The minute you start converting from one to another,
you are throwing your accuracy away. You simply cannot find a
common denominator for apples and oranges. The corresponding
values and relationships become muddied, and you make mistakes.
In my years of association with Model Shipways and later Model
Expo, I have had the opportunity to open up and study literally
hundreds of European ship model kits. Most of these kits were
"based" on plans of English and American prototypes. The one
nearly universal feature of these kits was (and no doubt still
is) the inaccuracy and inconsistency of their plans. This
remarkably consistent problem is due to the fact that the
original plans and dimensions, laid down in the English system
of measurement were scaled down and converted to metric (or
vice versa) by the manufacturer, for production in metric. Due
to the problems stated above, this caused inevitable
inaccuracies to be manufactured into these kits and their plans.
In several cases where I analyzed kits thoroughly, I actually
found consistently repeated mathematical mistakes in certain
plan/part dimensions.
I'm not saying, don't ever build a model in metric. I know
that many modelers successfully build and enjoy European kits
almost exclusively. What I am saying is, don't invite trouble
by mixing one system with another by trying to convert back and
forth; for beginners, do yourselves a favor and make your
learning experience a little easier and more pleasant by
sticking with English System measurement, at least to start
with.
BTW, I have built models in metric, though I try to avoid it
if at all possible! (Jim Roberts)
***I agree with your comments. However, let us be certain to
impress on the list members who are new to modeling that they
should pick EITHER metric or English measurements for a project.
If there is anything out there which can screw up an already
mysterious (as seen by the eyes of a newcomer to ship modeling)
undertaking, it is trying to wend back and forth between metric
and English. With the exception of Dana's observation concerning
the availability of ready-made parts, it really doesn't matter
which you use. But only use one method per project!!! Beware,
beginner, thou hast been warned!
This comment was and is directed to the BEGINNING modeler. As
the beginner develops his or her skills the ability to rapidly
flip-flop between the two measurement systems will be attained.
I would be most surprised if you experienced modelers could NOT
interchange at will. Let us all remember that in addition to
helping one another, our mission here (as I see it) is to help
train the novice. (Mickey Martelle)
***I personally think all you guys (and gals if there are any)
are making a mountain out of a molehill regarding metrics and
English. Both are units of measurement. There may be a slight
difference between a metric part and English, but it is very
close in the scales we deal in. I put both English inches and
millimeter units on my plans, so the US guys can use inches,
and the overseas guys can use millimeters. Its more of a
familiarity with one system vs. the other.
With models, what I have seen is equivalents that are really
not equivalent. I am currently working on a project done in
Italy, and the Italian firm gives basically millimeters.
However, they have also given equivalents in inches. For
example, they wanted certain parts cut from 1mm thick wood.
They said this is 3/64" in inches. Well, thats not exactly true
because 3/64" is 1.19 millimeters. But does it really make a
difference? Use 1mm wood cut in Europe or 3/64" cut in the US
and at a small scale the difference is hardly noticable. Am I
making myself clear? I f not I would like to hear more from
those interested, and be more specific. The last few messages I
read were too general. This one I am responding to is an
example. "Stick to one system. Why? I often use inches and
millimeters on a project. Sometimes I find it easier to divide
things or measure things in millimeters than inches. I relate
to full scale sizes better in inches, but I am talking about
the process of model building. I think everyone who is involved
in technical stuff like model building should be able to work
and interchange either system. If you can't you are just not
doing your homework. (Ben Langford)
***I have been following the English/Metric scale discussion
with interest. All of the contributors have had valuable things
to say, and I have only two small things to add.
1. I have a 6" steel rule from Model Expo with both English
and Metric scales. The first 5 cm of the Metric scale are
graduated in 1/2 mm increments, which is more than small
enough for most woodworking purposes, since I always cut a
little long and then sand or file to fit. I do not know
if it is still available.
2. When working in 1/2", 1/4" or 1/8" scale, I use metric ruler
divisions to approximate full size English units. While
this sounds a little screwy, it works quite well. This is
because of the close approximation between the scale (1:24
for instance) and the ratio of English to metric units
(1:25.4).
For example, if a cap rail is 4" wide, full size, it will be
4/48" or 1/12" in 1/4" scale. This is a measurement which does
not appear on any ruler.
However, at the same scale, 1mm is almost exactly equal to 2"
( 1.8912" precisely), so I measure 2 mm and I have my 4" actual
dimension. I do not do this when building in 3/16" or 3/8"
scales, since the divisions on the ruler match full sized actual
dimensions. For small details or ropework I use calipers, as
has been suggested by others. (Dan Pariser)
***I probably am talking too much, but to "train the novice" is
not to say avoid something. If the novice does not deal with
metrics and English, how the hell will they ever learn anything.
Let's tell them how to deal with the subject, not to avoid it.
Most novices are model builder novices, but they are not
idiots. Some are probably as old as we are and with a lot more
technical skills. Do not assume that a novice model builder is
some dumb s-o-b kid. (Ben Langford)
Final notes: If you build a model for display or sale, always sign it
in a hidden or at least non-obvious location. Never sell yourself
short. Log your hours building. Never charge less than 3xCurrent
minimum wage per hour plus materials. If your work is quality, it will
sell at those prices, and usually at a premium. If your work doesn't
meet standards (retail, decorative or museum) you will never sell
regularly. Document sources and techniques on everything you build for
(possible) sale or "prestigeous" display. Good Luck (RAlcorn824)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part07
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, January 3 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 07) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
29. Am modeling a Fletcher (Revell 1/305) and was wondering if
anyone could offer some up to date colors, FS numbers, etc.?
A: Floquil has come out with a series of WWII marine paints that
match USN colors:
a. Navy Blue 5-N - (Floquil) 818598 \
b. Ocean Gray 5-O - 818596 |
c. Weather Deck Blue 20-B 818600 |
d. Haze Grey 5-H 818594 | - these are the Floquil
e. Deck House Blue 818704 | part nos.
f. Pale Blue 5-P 818590 |
g. Light Grey 5-L 818592 /
Tom Walkowiak runs The Floating Drydock, a model
shop/reference house (?). He has a vast library of photos of
USN vessels, and can provide 8" x 10" glossies for given hull
numbers and time periods. He also sells U.S. Navy Camouflage
& Markings for $7.99, which lists all the camouflage patterns
used by the USN during WWII. His address is:
The Floating Drydock
c/o General Delivery
Kresgeville, PA 18333
I have his U.S. Navy Camouflage & Markings book. The book is
a fair compendium of everything one would wish to know about
U.S. Navy Camouflage & Markings in WW II. However, if your
worried about ABSOLUTE ACCURACY, you need to determine which of
the hundreds of Fletchers you'll be doing - the camouflage
patterns vary. In fact, The Floating Drydock also sells (for
a few bucks, I think) a list of most USN WWII vessels with the
camouflage measures that each had during the war. The Floating
Drydock sells camouflage sheets for most measures and ship
classes. (Rob Robinson)
***I have both, along with their color chipset. The C&M book
is very useful for things you don't think about until you get
there like the horizontal colors, both decks and undersides of
whatever. Highly recommended, and I only wish there was
something like it for other navies.
BTW, the list of USN vessels/measures is only for those in
measures 31/32/33, not 21 or 22. And they don't mention the
time period. Since ships seemed to change colors like new
dresses, ...
Per the aforementioned "USN Camouflage 1 of the WW2 Era" from
Floating Drydock:
- "After [1946-47] almost all vessels adopted Measure 13,
solid haze gray (5-H) as peacetime paint", until the next set
of regulations came out.
- After March 1953, use either Measure 27 (same as 13, above)
or 17 (also known as 14) which uses Ocean Grey vice Haze Grey.
For both these measures, "all steel decks and all other
horizontal steel surfaces exposed to aerial observation shall
be painted either smooth dark gray deck type A or non-skid
dark gray deck type B. All overheads and the undersides of
all other external horizontal surfaces shall be painted glossy
or base white".
In other words, just like a modern ship, except for details of
the color shades and masting. (Allan "battleships!" Plumb)
***Try Alan Raven's "Fletcher-Class Destroyers", available from
the Naval Institute. There're four different camo schemes
sketched, which show Port and starboard views, deck views, and
sections showing mount & superstructure faces.
{mailto:00jeg...@bsuvc.bsu.edu}
***Two good refs: Flush Decks & Four Pipes (a classic, now in
2nd edition, and probably available from USNI, Annapolis, MD)
and "The Destroyer Campbeltown", by Al Ross, one of the
"Anatomy of the Ship" series from Conway Maritime Press /
United States Naval Institute (depends on which continent you
call home).
BTW, new and very excellent reference volume on Gearing/Sumner
class DD's just publiched by USNI. Author is Bob Sumrall, one
of the curators at the USNA Museum. Expensive book, but
Nothing Else Even Comes Close!!! Lots of excellent photos,
drawings, including color renditions. My Dad (departed now
nearly 30 years) was Propulsion Systems Engineer for members of
the class built by consolidated - I have lots of original
white-lines on the ships. Sumrall's book is as good as, if not
better, than having *all* the original documentation, because
he goes into as-built, as-employed details. (RAIcorn824)
***I was struck by how dark gray all the ships were. In most
color photos, US warships seem to be painted light to medium
gray. The color I saw was much darker. Floquil produces a
line of Naval Colors and a close match seems to be Floquil
818652 Battleship Gray FS1640 (yes, 4 digits). (Martin Sagara)
***Nope, the right color is "haze gray", H-5. It probably looked
darker because the weather in Norfolk is usually pretty lousy.
Go to San Diego and you'll have a confirmation of what I'm
saying. (Paolo Pizzi)
***Paolo is right..haze gray is very light, and to my eye, has
no blue tones in it. I served on a San Diego Spruance, and a
color photo of me conning it under the Golden Gate bridge is
right in front of me...the haze gray is slightly darker than
the radome grey, but definately not a medium gray.
Besides, the same color on a model or miniature will look
darker, so go with the H-5 Haze Grey. I do not recommend the
Battleship gray - way too dark. (Byron Bond)
30. What colors to use on the Revell(?) PT-109?
A: I purchased the Bluejacket 1/48 scale wood model of PT109. It
blows the Revell Model away but still your kit is pretty
accurate. My plans have excellent information about paint.
If you are painting the boat from when it was manufactured to
before JFK took command you would paint it as follows:
1. Deck and all upper surfaces: Dark Gray 5D. This can be
duplicated with Floquil 818646 "Navy Dark Gray".
2. Hull: Navy Gray (a). This can be duplicated with Floquil
818650 "Navy Light Gray".
3. Below Water Line: Coperoid. This can be duplicated using
Floquil Boxcar Red 110074.
If you are painting the boat after JFK took command you would
paint it "MTB Green". This can be duplicated by mixing 4 parts
Ocean Green (5-OG) Floquil 818606 to 1 part Navy Green (5-NG)
Floquil 818608. The Bottom was "Coperoyd" and can be duplicated
using Floquil Boxcar Red 110074 (Railroad Color). (David Waples)
***You are absolutely right so here is a repeat of the e-mail I
sent to Scott.
The colour was a Military Green, from the colour photo's I 've
seen it could anything from a Forest Green to an Olive drab.
Take into account the effect of Sun, salt water, paint variations
and the quality of the photos I don't think anyone could say
"that's wrong".
P.T. 109 was nicknamed "JFK" which was usually painted on the
for'rd deckhouse below the spray screen. 109 did not carry the
large pennant number on the bows, but small numbers appeared on
the front of the wheelhouse, the .50 cal mounts and around the
base of the 20mm mount.
Recommended reading is U.S. P.T. Boats of WWII by Frank. D.
Johnson. Which has 2 excellent photo's of 109 lashed to the
deck of a Transport. and seems to show she was green before
shipment to the Pacific. (J.L. Pickstock)
31. ***The following section is contributed by Jon Warneke:
USN Camouflage Measures
The U.S. Navy of WWII developed numerous camouflage measures
for its ships. These were numbered from 1 to 33. These
measures were contained in a manual known as SHIPS-2,
distrubuted by the Bureau of Construction and Repair (BuC&R),
USN.
1. SHIPS-2 was first distributed in January 1941, containing
Measures 1 through 9. The colors used for these measures
are as follows:
Light Grey 5-L (replaced Standard Navy Grey of the prewar
period)
Ocean Grey 5-O
Dark Grey 5-D
Black #82
White 5-U
All of these colors were mixed from base colors of white
and black, forming greys of varying hues. The measures which
used these colors are as follows:
Measure (Ms) 1: Dark Grey System. All vertical surfaces
Dark Grey 5-D below the funnel tops, Light Grey 5-L above the
funnel tops.
Ms 2: Graded System. All superstructure parts 5-L, hull
graded with 5-L the top band, 5-O the middle band, and 5-d on
the bottom band. Each band is to be of equal width.
Ms 3: Light Grey System. All vertical surfaces Light Grey
5-L.
Ms 4: Black System. All vertical surfaces Black #82.
Ms 5: Painted Bow Wave. To be used with Ms. 1, 2 or 3, but
not Ms. 4. Upper edge of the wave is to be painted in 5-U,
and the body of the wave in either dark blue or 5-D
Ms. 6 through 8 were to use paint to made a ship look like
another (i.e. a Omaha-class CL look like a four stack DD)
with the color of the deception to be the opposite of the
general color of the ship (i.e. the ship painted in 5-D would
use 5-L for the deception).
Ms 9: Black System for Subs. Paint the entire area above
the waterline black.
2. SHIPS-2 was revised in September 1941 after testing found
that blues were more effective in camoflauge than were the
greys of the Jan. 1941 edition. The new colors were as
follows:
Haze Grey 5-H
Ocean Grey 5-O (not the same as above)
Sea Blue 5-S
Deck Blue 20-B
Black #82
White 5-U
The colors were mixed from 5-U and tinting material known as
5-TM (Author's note: I am unaware of any references
available to the modeler of the actual tint of either 5-TM or
20-TM, which was used for making Deck Blue). The measures
which were authorized under the Sept. 1941 edition are as
follows:
Ms 1 through 8: Discontinued
Ms 9: Same as above
Ms 11: Sea Blue System. All verticle surfaces Sea Blue 5-S
Ms 12: Graded System. Paint hull 5-S to the level of the
main deck (Carriers to the level of the hangar deck). Paint
superstructure to the tops of the funnels Ocean Grey 5-O.
Above the funnels Haze Grey 5-H.
Ms 13: Haze Grey System. All verticle surfaces Haze Grey
5-H.
Ms 14: Ocean Grey System. All verticle surfaces Ocean
Grey 5-O.
In all measures except Ms. 9, the decks were to be painted
in Deck Blue 20-B.
3. In June, 1942, SHIPS-2 was again revised, and new colors
were introduced, using the same ingredients as the Sept 1941
edition. The colors authorized were:
Thayer Blue 5-B
Haze Grey 5-H (not the same tint as above)
Ocean Grey 5-O (not the same tint as above)
Navy Blue 5-N
Deck Blue 20-B
Black #82
White 5-U
The measures authorized under this edition are as follows:
Ms 9: Black System for Subs. Same as above
Ms 10: Gray System for Subs. Paint all surfaces above
waterline 5-O
Ms 11 and 12: Discontinued
Ms 13: Haze Grey System. Same as above
Ms 14: Ocean Grey System. Same as above
Ms 16: Thayer System. For use in arctic regions. All
vertical surfaces White 5-U with patterns of Thayer Blue 5-B.
Ms 21: Navy Blue System. Paint all vertical surfaces Navy
Blue 5-N.
Ms 22: Graded System. 5-N from the waterline to an
imaginary line parallel to the waterline which runs through
the deepest part of the main deck, 5-O from this point up.
4. In March, 1943, SHIPS-2 was again revised, and new colors
were introduced again. The colors authorized were:
Pale Gray 5-P FS 35526
Light Gray 5-L FS 36320
Haze Gray 5-H FS 35237
Ocean Gray 5-O FS 35164
Navy Blue 5-N FS 35044
Deck Blue 20-B FS 35042
Dull Black BK FS 37040
(The FS numbers are estimates based on the author's
comparison of color chips to FS chips. The new Floquil Marine
colors provide the builder with accurate representations of
these colors.)
The Measures which used these colors are as follows:
Ms 21: Navy Blue System. Same as above
Ms 22: Graded System. Same as above
Ms 23: Light Grey System. Paint all vertical surfaces
light grey, and paint the undersides of all overhangs White
5-U.
Ms 31: Dark Pattern System. Paint all vertical surfaces
with patterns of 5-H, 5-O, and BK.
Ms 31a: Dark Pattern System. Same as Ms. 31, except that
5-N replaces BK.
2 color schemes used 5-H and 5-N
3 color schemes used 5-H, 5-O, and 5-N
Ms 32: Medium Pattern System. Paint all vertical surfaces
with patterns of:
2 color schemes used 5-L and BK
3 color schemes used 5-L, 5-O, and BK
Ms 33: Light Pattern System. Paint all vertical surfaces
with patterns of:
2 color schemes used 5-L and 5-O
3 color schemes used 5-P, 5-H, and 5-N
Measures 31, 31a, 32, and 33 were used with various geometric
patterns that were assigned design numbers reflecting the
pattern and what type of ship they were created for. Thus
"Measure 32/18d" would use the colors of Measure 32, be
geometric design number 18, and have been designed for a
destroyer ("d"). Decks were to be painted in 20-B, but many
Ms. 31 and 32 designs also had patterns of 20-B and 5-O on
the decks.
Also authorized under this edition were green colors for use
on ships. These colors corresponded with the blue colors
and were:
Pale Green 5-PG
Light Green 5-LG
Haze Green 5-HG
Ocean Green 5-OG
Navy Green 5-NG
Deck Green 20-G
These colors can also be found in the Floquil Line of Marine
Paints. The greens were interchangable with the blues in the
measures, but were mostly used on amphibious force units and
coastal forces.
5. Upon the end of the war, most of the dazzle measures were
discontinued, and those ships were repainted in Ms. 13. Other
ships in Ms. 21 and Ms. 22 remained in those mesures until
about 1947 or 1948 when they were also repainted in Ms. 13.
***I cannot give you FS numbers (The colors were of a type that
don't fit the FS well) but I can give you some info.
Deck Blue 20-B Stain is of the same color as Deck Blue 21-B --
Well Matched by Humbrol's #79 Blue-Grey or available in
Floquil's new Military series.
Navy Blue 5-N, Ocean Gray 5-O, and Haze Gray 5-H are all
available in Floquil's series, or can be mixed. I've used the
mixes I got from a Scale Models series, which are given here
with new Humbol designators.
--Navy Blue: 2 Parts #104 Oxford Blue to 1 Part #176 Neutral
Grey/Lt. Grey
--For Ocean and Haze Gray, mix a stock of 2 Parts #104, 1 Part
#67 Tank Grey, and 1 Part #34 Matt White.
--Ocean Grey 5-O: 1 Part of Stock + 1 Part #34.
--Haze Grey 5-H: 1 Part of Stock + 4 Parts #34.
I use disposable Polyethylene transfer pipettes as droppers,
which I buy from a scientific supply house in my area. I mix
in the bottles Testors sells five in a package.
Colors you didn't mention are:
--Sea Blue 5-S (and Blue Flight Deck Stain #250): Mix 1 Part
Navy Blue 5-N to 1 Part Ocean Gray 5-O is the best look I've
gotten.
--Markings Stain Gray 251: Same as Ocean Gray
--Light Gray 5-L: 1 Part of Stock + 10 Parts #34
--Pale Gray 5-P: 1 Part of Stock + 25 Parts #34
Sea Blue was a prediscesor of Navy Blue. CV-2 Lexington was
in this color when sunk, the CV-5 Yorktown's lower hull was
still painted in it at Midway, and so forth. It was starting
to be replaced by a darker color in the Atlantic even before
Pearl Harbor, the darker color becoming Navy Blue 5-B officially
in June 1942.
The lighter flight deck stain was introduced in October 1941.
The Markings stain was used with it in solid lines, but often
Chrome Yellow (FS 13538 - use 33538 for scale) was used in
blocks, giving the dashed look familiar in photos. Later in
the war you will have to look carefully, since Chrome Yellow,
White, and 251 stain were all used on the carriers' flight
decks for the markings.
Light and Pale Grays were used in the dazzle camouflages of
the 1943-44 period, along with Dull Black, Navy Blue, Ocean
Gray, and Haze Gray.
All of these colors would fade rapidly, and be hard to paint
back on the hull regularly. For fading effects, the blue hue
was lost fairly quickly, leaving a lighter, grayer tone. The
black faded to a medium gray over about 6 months, though it
stayed the darkest color in the camouflage, just to give a
point for relativity. (Mark Shannon)
***Modern USN ships, in peacetime, are Haze Gray on hull and
superstructure vertical surfaces. Decks are Deck Gray (what
else!), which is slightly darker and tends to have a little bit
of blue in it, but fades quickly to a gray not much different
than Haze Gray.
Note that there is a 'non-skid' coating on the <metal> decks
where foot traffic is expected which is a very dark gray (not
quite black) when new, but fades within a couple of months to a
dark gray - but still noticably darker than the metal deck gray.
Generally, all main deck have this non-skid, except the f'ocsle
area forward of the breakwater. Superstructure decks are painted
metal (deck gray), with 36"-48" wide non-skid paths between
ladders and doors.
All masts and equipment above the funnels, and the funnel caps
themselves are flat black. There are specific exceptions for
radomes (usually left in a light or gull gray) and some
parabolic fire control radars. (Byron Bond)
***According to "The Painters Guide to WW2 Naval Camouflage",
U.S: All horizontal surfaces (metal) were to be painted in Deck
Blue (20-B). Carrier decks were stained 20-B since stains could
provide color while retaining the non-skid feature of fir decks.
Striping was a stain which matched Ocean Gray (5-O).
Japan: Flight decks on carriers and other vessels were initially
in natural wood tan...usually faded to light gray. During 1942,
wood flight deck planking was replaced by a reddish brown
compound material (Floquil #303367 US Earth Red, and 303126
Panzer Red Brown are close). Deck markings: elevators gray,
sometimes outlined in yellow. Aft ramp had alternating red/white
stripes running across ship, circle as aiming point for landing
planes.
Comments: The book has more detail, although it is somewhat
generic. Japanese carriers had green islands on occasion. And I
thought the US had mahogony decks too. I wondered what happened
to all of thos Douglas firs. (Bob Sigman)
32. How do you paint and mask camouflage detail?
Okay: How do you do it? I can see that once I assemble my
1/350 DD, BB, and CVE and add all the details, adding the
camouflage measures will be very difficult. How do you mask
fine photo-etched details without breaking them? Is it
necessary to cave in and use a brush (which will reach around
some of the obstructions)? I am a new air-brush user trying to
plan ahead, and I'm darned if I can see how it's done. I want
to add three- and four-colored 1944 camouflage measures to a
Fletcher DD and a Casablanca CVE but I cannot see how to do it
without marring the result, either by over-spray or by pre-
spraying sub-assemblies and then "touching up" after final
assembly. Please, a few hints for a newbie from some of the
more experienced hands? (Rob Robinson)
***I don't do modern warships myself, being more the sailing
man-of-war fan, but from what I have read in magazines, etc. on
the subject, I guess that the best thing to do is to complete
the basic structure of your model (hull, funnel, superstructure,
gun turrets and so on) and camouflage it *before* adding all
the fancy detail.
Of course, this leaves you with the problem of painting the
fancy details...:) (Staale Sannerud)
***Pretty easy, you paint the "fancy details" with a fine brush
after you've airbrushed the rest. (Paolo Pizzi)
33. This section was provided by Seth Adams.
Here is some information I received from Testor as to paint
conversions for a Tamiya 1/350 USS New Jersey (modern). I am
sure that the same colors can be used for other US warships.
Tamiya Number Name Model Master #
X-10 Gun Metal 1795
X-13 Metallic Blue Closest: 2701, 2702, 2703
XF-1 Flat Black 1749
XF-2 Flat White 1768
XF-7 Flat Red 1705
XF-10 Flat Brown 1701
XF-19 Sky Grey 1728 Light Ghost Grey
XF-24 Dark Grey 1741 Dark Ghost Grey
XF-50 Field Blue No close match
XF-53 Neutral Grey 1725
XF-55 Deck Tan 1742 Dark Tan
XF-56 Metallic Grey 2711 Anthracite Grey Met. or 2712
Graphite
Metallic
XF-63 German Grey No close match
XF-66 Light Grey 1732
34. I'd like to mount a pair of models on a mahogany base under
plexiglass. But the real sticker here is how can I simulate/
duplicate the wake(s) that two ships puttering at 30 knots
through calm seas would generate? (Michael Wolf)
A: Not really answering your direct request (but that never seems
to stop other posters !!) I simulated the calm see on a 1:700
scale model of the Tamiya HMS King George V using cellophane.
I wanted to depict her at anchor, with an awning over the
fantail and ships boats scurrying about.
I took a suitable baseboard and roughly painted it in gloss
sea blue. Before the paint dried I got some thin blue cellophane
from an art shop and crumpled it up into a tight ball. Then I
unwrapped and pressed it down onto the blue paint.
As I couldn't get rid of the creases, I was left with air
bubbles between the cellophane and the paint, so that I had a
dark blue colour where the cellophane stuck to the paint and
lighter colours where the bubbles were. The effect was most
realistic and looked just like deep water with the creases in
the cellophane acting as a slight swell.
I suppose you could then add the wake using coloured gel or
something. (Ken Duffey)
***Artist's acrylic gel medium is the best I've ever seen for
water. I tried resin once, it got so damn hot chemically curing
that it melted my ship model. The gel medium is cool, no
problem. There have been at least 2 articles, in past issues of
FSM, I think on using this stuff. So go find your issues and
read. I won't tie up the net with how to use it.
(Raymond J. Mehlberger)
***Most people use acrylic gel and it works fine with larger
scales (1/350 and up) but IMHO it's too coarse for 1/700. I
used very successfully alluminum foil (you have to make it into
a ball and then spread it on the base you want to use, wood
preferably) painted with dark blue and medium green (both
glossy) sprayed at the same time from two airbrushes (spray
cans would do the same I guess...) To create wakes use ordinary
(white) toothpaste, possibly the cheapest crap you can get for
less than a dollar from Pic'n Save or similar stores.
(Paolo Pizzi)
***I've seen some fantastic dioramas done by Ken Hart of
submarines. Ken uses something called "water glass", which is
the wavy stuff you can get at art supply shops and glass shops.
He actually "glues" it to the base with a thick coat of blue-
green paint, after an initial coat of paint (Both coats on the
bottom side). After gluing the waterline ships to the glass,
he depicts wakes by using 2-part epoxy, which conducts light
and looks remarkably like a ship's wake. He spreads the epoxy
"wake" with a toothpick. See FSM's "Modelling the Second World
War" for Ken's submarine harbor scene. Although the subs are
not "underway", it illustrates how realistic this approach
looks. (Tom Dougherty)
***Try using acrylic gesso. Found at art supply stores, it is
similar to acrylic gel, only gesso is pigmented, it is like
really thick paint. It has a mayonaisse consistency. There is
a dark greenish blue color that should be adequate for the base
color. Just put it on thick with a large brush, and work it
into wave and wake shapes, then stiple it with the brush to
remove brush streaks. After it dries, drybrush it in the usual
manner. Very easy and effective in 1/700 scale. (J. Gordon)
***That works, but I was in the local art supply chain
yesterday and found a new line (or they just started to carry
it!) of Liquitex products:
Liquitex Texture Gels
The line is an assortment of modelling-type mediums. I bought
4....Black Lava(7108), Resin Sand(6608), Natural Sand(6508),
and Blended Fibers(6708). There were several others, 7 or 8
total with other textures. I paid $6.55 each for an 8oz tub.
I haven't had the chance to do anything with them yet, but the
texture on the sample card was amazing. The Black Lava would
make great rocks, etc. for land diaramas, esp. for Pacific
island beaches. I plan to use the Blended Fibers to make
bow/stern wakes. The Natural Sand will make a good prop wash in
the wake as it is very rough and looks 'bubbly' on the sample.
The Resin Sand will make good waves and general water. These
products are water clean-up, but is "water resistant when dry"
meaning you can use the acrylic paints to detail the water's
colors once the base coat is done. (James Corley)
35. Where can I get 1/72 scale coast guard decals? I'm building an
hh-60.
A: Superscale #109 carries US Coast Guard markings for the HC-130,
HU-16 and HH-3F. You may be able to adapt these markings for
the HH-60 (if it's not the most recent paint scheme you're
looking for). (Abe Lynn)
***A generic set of Coast Guard markings are available on
Super Scale sheet No. 72-109. Hope this helps.
{mailto:pbo...@kalmbach.com}
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part09
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, January 3 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 09) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
45. What is the best material for sails?
A: The traditional source of sail material ("Drafting Linen") is
now almost unobtainable (replaced by drafting mylar). It was
a very fine fabric, but tended to yellow after a few years (I
have a model that has become dark brown.) A fabric sold by
some of the hoby suppliers as "Balloon Cloth" is really just a
fine canvas, and unsuitable for most work. (John Kopf)
***The following material was provided by William E. Boebert,
Historian, U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group:
Finding authentic cotton sailcloth for our vintage pond boats
has been a problem since the formation of the Vintage Model
Yacht Group. Bill Bithell, the 80-something years young builder
and sailmaker, used the last of his 1939 bolt of cloth to make
twenty sets of sails for the boats that showed up at the 100th
anniversary regatta of the Marblehead Model Yacht Club in 1994.
(But there were scraps to use to match possible "hits"). After
that the search was on, in the US and overseas, and led me and
the other Group Historian (Charley Williamson) on a merry chase
through mills, defunct suppliers, the Smithsonian, ant the
American Museum of Textile History. Finally, a message to this
list triggered a web search which lead to a supplier in, of all
places, Annapolis Maryland. This person also has some material
which may be of interest to the scale crowd. But first ....
A couple of messages have mentioned "balloon cloth." Herewith
the official description, from an airplane maintenance textbook
of 1940:
"Balloon fabric is used in several applications in aircraft
such as pliable backings for package racks, hat racks, etc.
Light cotton gauze, woven tightly and with great precision, is
run through a rubber mill; the crude rubber is squeezed
throught he pores of the cloth and sheeted on both sides. The
rubber is then vulcanized. The threads per inch in warp and
filling vary from 120 to 140 .. the weight of two-ply balloon
cloth is generally 11 ounces per square yard."
Obviously, what we wanted was the material before the
rubberizing process. Not only was this cotton tightly woven,
but it was also made from "long staple" cotton. This is a
special breed of cotton with unusually long fibers. Varieties
are called Egyptian, Sea Island or Pima cotton.
Two things that are *not* balloon cloth: Grade A Aircraft
fabric, which is long staple cotton woven 88 threads per inch
and subject to a strict FAA certification process (and extinct),
and the stuff from Model Shipways I got from Dromedary, which
is about 60 threads per inch.
In the course of our search we turned up a suppliers catalog
with swatches: the material varied from 82 to 126 threads per
inch and 2 to 6 oz per square yard. We got aced out of the last
of mill's run of "down cambric" (a glossary of cotton cloth
terms is at the end of this message). This is a lightweight
cotton cloth used for down pillows and comforters -- the tight
weave is needed to keep the feathers from poking through.
Well, after another bunch of adventures we located some down
cambric in the UK, which was awkward to purchase but at least
available. Then a message to this list mentioned swiss pima
batiste. Did a web search, and got a hit on Kiyo Designs of
Annapolis (http://www.kiyoinc.com/fabric.html). After a bit of
conversation and exchange of samples, Nancy Hoyt (who runs the
place and *really* knows her stuff) found the following
candidates:
Poplin, 150x70 threads per inch, natural
Broadcloth, 150x90, natural (which looks like the stuff for us)
Batiste, 100x100, white
Lawn, 150x150, white
Everything runs about seven bucks a yard (45" wide) except for
the lawn, which is thirteen (same width). All would be suitable
for scale work, being at least twice as fine woven as the Model
Shipways material, fine enough to be translucent. The lawn, in
particular, looks pretty good for furled sails -- it's very fine
and tightly woven. The batiste is a more open weave and would
look good for sails in older boats.
Nancy did a fair amount of digging to find this stuff for us,
and I hope that this message doesn't trigger an avalanche of
one yard orders which would be more trouble for her than it's
worth. The best thing would be if one of the suppliers who are
on this list would buy a bunch and resell it.
Appendix:
Definitions lifted from The Internet Centre for Canadian
Fashion and Design - The Textile Dictionary
(http://www.ntg-inter.com/ICCF&D/cotton.htm)
* Batiste
Fibre: Cotton, also rayon and wool.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Named after Jean Baptiste, a French linen
weaver. Light weight, soft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles
nainsook, but finer. It belongs to the lawn family; almost
transparent. It is made of tightly twisted, combed yarns and
mercerized finish. Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In
a heavier weight, it is used for foundation garments and
linings in a plain, figured, striped, or flowered design.
Considered similar to nainsook but finer and lighter in
weight. Now usually made of 100% polyester distinguished by
slubs in filling direction.
* Broadcloth
Fibre: Cotton and silk, and rayon. Very different than wool
broadcloth.
Weave: Plain weave and in most cotton broadcloths made with a
very fine crosswise rib weave.
Characteristics: Originally indicated a cloth woven on a wide
loom. Very closely woven and in cotton, made from either
carded or combed yarns. The filling is heavier and has less
twist. It is finer than poplin when made with a crosswise rib
and it is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread count
ranges from high quality 144 x 6 count down to 80 x 60. Has a
smooth finish. May be bleached, dyed, or printed; also is
often mercerized. Wears very well. If not of a high quality
or treated it wrinkles very badly. Finest quality made from
Egyptian or combed pima cotton - also sea island.
Uses: Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in
plain colours, blouses, summer wear of all kinds.
* Cambric
Fibre: Cotton, also linen.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Soft, closely woven, light. Either bleached
or piece dyed. Highly mercerized, lint free. Calendered on
the right side with a slight gloss. Lower qualities have a
smooth bright finish. Similar to batiste but is stiffer and
fewer slubs. Launders very well. Has good body, sews and
finishes well. Originally made in Cambria, France of linen
and used for Church embroidery and table linens.
Uses: Handkerchiefs, underwear, slips, nightgowns, children's
dresses, aprons, shirts and blouses.
* Lawn
Fibre: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Word derived from Laon, a city in France,
where linen lawn was manufactured extensively. Light weight,
sheer, soft, washable. It is crispier than voile but not as
crisp as organdy. Made with fine high count yarns, silky
feel. Made with either carded or combed yarns. Comes in white
or may be dyed or printed. When made with combed yarns with a
soft feel and slight lustre it is called nainsook.
Uses: Underwear, dresses, blouses, night wear, curtains,
lingerie, collars, cuffs, infant wear, shirtings,
handkerchiefs.
* Poplin
Fibre: Cotton, wool, and other textile fibres.
Weave: Crosswise rib. The filling is cylindrical. Two or
three times as many warp as weft per inch.
Characteristics: Has a more pronounced filling effect than
broadcloth. It is mercerized and has quite a high lustre. It
may be bleached, or dyed (usually vat dyes are used) or
printed. Heavy poplin is given a water-repellent finish for
outdoor use. Originally made with silk warp and a heavier
wool filling. Some also mildew-proof, fire-retardant, and
some given a suede finish. American cotton broadcloth
shirting is known as poplin in Great Britain.
Uses: Sportswear of all kinds, shirts, boy's suits, uniforms,
draperies, blouses, dresses.
* Sailcloth
Fibre: Cotton, linen, nylon.
Weave: Plain, some made with a crosswise rib.
Characteristics: A strong canvas or duck. The weights vary,
but most often the count is around 148 x 60. Able to
withstand the elements (rain, wind and snow). Sailcloth for
clothing is sold frequently and is much lighter weight than
used for sails.
Uses: Sails, awnings, and all kinds of sportswear for men,
women, and children.
OTHER STUFF...
==============
46. What is meant by "Museum Quality" ship models?
A. This topic has been discussed regularly in the Journal of the
Nautical Research Guild.
Edward P. Von der Porten, former director of the Army, Navy,
and Coast Guard Museum near San Francisco says "A museum
quality ship model is whatever a museum director accepts for a
museum collection". In general, the model (or artifact) must be
able to convey part of a carefully thought out STORY to a
thoroughly analyzed AUDIENCE. If the exhibit concerns ship
"crafts", sailor-built models, half-models, and ships in bottles
may have a role, even if inaccurate.
In a diorama (for example, in the 2-MILE section of Omaha Beach
to be displayed aboard the Jeremial O'Brian, using 1:1200
models), a uniform scale is important (for this example, detail
is not).
On the other hand, Dana M. Wegner reports that the standards
used by the U. S. Navy and Smithsonian have been relatively
unchanged since 1945:
o It is reasonable for a model to last 100 years before
deterioration becomes visible. Resistance to actions of
temperature, humidity, and light is essential...some recently
developed model-building materials and techniques should be
avoided until sufficient time has passed to properly evaluate
their longevity...It is advised that fiberglass resins,
styrene, expanding foams, casting resins, and cyanoacrylate
glues be avoided when other materials can possibly be used.
o 'Workmanship shall be in accordance, in every respect, with
the best model-building practices. Hulls shall be smooth,
fair, and symmetrical; without blemishes, sap pockets, or tool
marks, and shall be scraped and sand-papered to smooth surface.
Machined parts shall bear no tool marks. Castings shall
contain no visible mold marks.'
o Any item with any SCALE dimension of 1/8" or greater must be
reproduced...work must be consistent [no super-detailing of
one part of the model contrasting with lesser levels of detail
elsewhere].
o A great deal is specified about acceptable and required
materials (e.g., 'Propellers should be cast in bronze...
Plastic propellers are not permitted').
o 'Painting of models shall receive careful attention...All
parts of the model shall have a surface treatment representing
the actual vessel if reduced in scale...models shall be spray
painted with opaque lacquer. Paint shall be applied thinly
and evenly so that fine detail will not be obliterated. The
use of metallic paints such as silver or gold is discouraged.
The use of white enamel or natural varnish is not permitted'...
'Wooden parts shall be sufficiently filled and primed so that
when rubbed down, the wood grain is not visible.'
{ The full set of specifications can be found in: Department
of Ship Model Scales and Service. Ship Model Classification
Guidelines [Mystic, Connecticut: Mystic Seaport Museum Stores,
1983] It was also published in part in Ships in Scale 6-34
(March/April 1989)} -- what this all boils down to is that the
purpose of a ship model is to support a coat of paint of the
correct SHAPE! (John Kopf)
*** Write the Mystic Seaport museum. Their definitions are
pretty close to universal, from my experience. By the way,
they also sell your ship models "if" they meet the standards.
Basically, Kit bilt, kit modified,, kit-bashed and completely
scratch. Restrictions also on materials, adhesives, etc. It's
worth the stamp for the information. check your local library
for the mailing address. "directory of American Museums") --
(RAlcorn824)
47. I have a 24-inch wood scale model of a Baltimore clipper that
has accumulated a layer of dust, etc, over the past three
years. Is there any way to clean this (full rigged) model.
One way I was told was to immerse the model in warm soapy
water, then in warm rinse water. However, I have used non-
waterproof glue in building this model. Any one out there have
alternative suggestions? Thanks {mailto:radi...@aol.com}
A: NO NO! Don't immerse it! There are three main regions you
need to clean, and each requires a different technique.
1) Hull. This is usually not the worst anyway, but a damp (not
wet, damp) rag with just a drop of soap is fine here.
2) Decks, Deckhouses. If you have an airbrush, use it with
just the jet of air. Simultaneously, sweep surfaces VERY
carefully with soft camel hair brush.
3) Rigging. Use airbrush as above. Only very reluctantly, use
a small brush for any really stubborn pieces of lint or dust.
But be even more careful than for deck areas.
If you do not have an airbrush, go to a photo store and buy
one of those cans of compressed air used to clean negatives
before printing. (Don Stauffer)
***I have been watching conservators working on ship models in
the museum I work at. They use one of the cheapest cleaning
fluids available - saliva. Basically, you use a cotton swab on
the end of a toothpick (Q-tip), roll it on your tongue and wipe
the model gently. It takes a while, but you will find it works
amazingly well. It also will prevent water from destroying
your wooden model that may (probably will) happen if you
immerse it in water. I would say that a few hours of
saliva/cotton swabs would be well worth the effort if the model
is valued by you and I bet it is.
These are my views and not the museums. {mailto:acol...@mi.net}
***I would be concerned that the enzymes in the saliva might
eventually do harm to organic materials...remember the 5th
grade science demonstration where we were each handed a cracker
and told to chew it up and then hold it in our mouth for 5
minutes? The enzymes started turning the starch into sugar.
Might not the same thing hold for cellulose (perhaps working
slower)? (John Kopf)
***The enzymes in the saliva break down relatively quickly.
When you use this technique, you only use a "very" thin layer
of saliva. (I'd hate to see a big old greener on the ship).
The saliva dries in a matter of seconds and leaves only minute
quantities of enzymes. The enzymes themselves only attack
starch molecules and convert the starch to simple sugars.
Saliva should not pose any harm to wood if used in application
I described earlier. As long as the paint is not water based,
(or used starch) there should be no damage.
Interesting comment though. I might see what our conservator
has to say about about a lot of expectorate on a wooden ship
model. {mailto:acol...@mi.net}
***Just a reminder: Few if any animals have cellulose. Both
bovines and termites depend on microorganisms in their gut to
turn cellulose into simple sugars. The likely problem with
using saliva instead of water (deionized or distilled) is that
a dried mucous film may make the next layer of dust cling a bit
more tenaciously and tap water (like the hard water here in KY)
may leave a mineral haze. {mailto:sir...@iglou.com}
48. Where can I find plans for the Frigate (HMS) Rose?
A: There was some interest expressed a few days ago in using the
modern reconstruction of the eighteenth century English frigate
"Rose" as a subject for shipmodeling. My caution is that since
the Rose is a reconstruction rather than a replica (that is,
a general rather than an exact copy), she is not a good subject
for modeling. It would be better to go back to the builders
original research materials, starting with the British Admiralty
plans of 1756, obtainable from the National Maritime Museum at
Greenwich.
For a very interesting article on the building of the
reconstruction, see "HMS Rose and Providence, Some Lessons
Learned the Hard Way", by John Fitzhugh Millar, in "Seaways",
Vol. II, No. 5, Sept-Oct 1991. You can find out about the
modern ship (or even book passage!) at:
HMS Rose Foundation (203) 335-1433
One Bostwick Ave
Bridgeport CT 06605
***On the net, try: http://www.synergy.net/homeport.html .
(Clayton A. Feldman)
49. How do I get a ship model appraised (for insurance purposes)?
("The Gallery" in Galveston buys and sells only ship models.
The director was the only person I had success locating that
appeared to be able to make an appraisal and issue a certificate
that an insurance company would honor. They appear to be a
reputable outfit and have advertised for quite some time in
"Seaway's Ships in Scale" magazine. IF he is qualified to
perform this duty via photos, I would rather spend $50 and know
my ship is insured than not. I was hoping to hear from others
who may have references for other appraisers and their
respective fees, etc. Although I have never had a model stolen,
I have had plastic models destroyed in moves. The government
only paid the cost of buying a new model, not for the time and
other expenses involved, which is understandable.)
A: Most appraisers are NOT familiar with ship models! As a result,
their "Appraisals" must be taken with a grain of salt. There
are specialists who can do a good job, but they're hard to find.
Several are listed in the FAQ, and if they are not conveniently
located they may be able to steer you to someone in your area.
The fee for an appraisal varies, but is frequently some
percentage of the appraised value. (John Kopf)
*** Tricky question, because it's not a heavily populated field.
I would suggest more or less in order the following:
1) curator(s) of the nearest maritime or naval museum.
2) curators of other such museums.
3) Southeby's or other international auction houses. ((Expect
to pay a bill around 10% or the appraised value))
4) Owners/operators of specialty shops in the area
(particularly if you live or sell in a maritime area like
Annapolis, Baltimore, Boston, Charlestown, ...San
Francisco, etc.) If there is a 'port' or 'maritime museum'
nearby, someone has experience selling models.
5) A bank located near a port or historic port area - offer
them one as a 'visual enhancement' to their lobby, etc.,
and find out what the traffic will bear. (RAlcorn824)
50. I'am looking for a tried and true sub plans, preferably, but
will accept any info or suggestings on model subs. All info
will be appreciated.
A. OK, model subs... As with everything else, depends on what
you're after. There are very few polystyrene kits of US WWII
subs (Revell Lionfish) and several 1:700 scale modern subs of
both US and Soviet (Russian) build. There are a few
polystyrene kits of WWII U-boats, type VII and XXII. Both of
these are available with internal components that are displayed
through cutouts in one side. In resin, MB (Blue Water) makes a
series of kits including WWII Gato class, S boat, and a number
of modern subs (SSN, SSBN and Russian Kilo diesel boat).
Supposedly, Tom's Model Works is going to release a resin of
WWII diesels that can be built as Gato, Balao or Guppy versions.
Also a rerelease of the Nautilus (SSN-571), in polystryrene.
If you want to do your own through plans or get a really
large size hull (1:96), contact the Floating Drydock in
Kresgeville, Pa. They stock plans for a large selection of
subs and fiber glass hulls (not cheap) for building your own
WWII diesel boat. (Tom Dougherty)
>>>When it dives below water, and you can't see it, what do you
do? Just drive around under water, not kowing where the sub is
or what it is doing, until you decide to surface again?
***This is one of the two most often asked questions about R/C
submarining, the other being "How does it receive radio signals
below the surface?". First, depending upon the clarity of the
water you can easily see the sub at periscope depth (one reason
why we usually have raised scopes), and even lower depths close
in to shore. If you go under too deep then you either surface
(if it's an "active ballast" boat) or you "plane" it to the
surface using either bow or stern planes. In either case, if
the sub stays down too long you want to "blow" ballast, or if
it's a dynamic diver, just stop the motor and let the positive
ballast bring it to the surface.
Second, depending upon the chemical composition of the water,
the boat will receive signals down to as much as ten feet below
the surface if it's fresh water, and 3-5 feet it it's salt
water or chlorinated pool water. (Kerry David)
51. Why do [your choice] cost so much?
A: This is an interesting question, for it illustrates the trade
offs inherent when your modeling efforts become a business. I
have had some limited exposure with this (I have done some
pattern work for The Scale Shipyard in the past) - and the time
spent on a master is extrordinary. For the last 3 nights I
have been working on a 1/16" 5" twin gun mount. When it is
finished I will have about 9 hours into the pattern. Will it
be perfect? No, I am leaving off some detail that would be
tedious and even more time consuming to put on (rivets, etc)
simplifying other detail (hinges for doors) and only indicate
where other detail goes if the modeler cares to add it (grab
rails). Why? There is a couple of curves here. One is that
adding complexity to a part shortens mold life when dealing
with RTV rubber. Little pieces degrade over time, and it does
not take long for the mold to be useless. My time to build
masters is limited, and the law of diminishing returns applies
here. Lastly, economics plays a part - there is a finite
amount that most modelers will pay for a certain part.
(The really sad thing is when someone puts hours into making
a part, and a modeler buys one and copies it for his models,
or worse, for his friends. It is only through multiple unit
sales that companies can hope to realize a profit - thus keep
is business - thus produce new stuff. I have been told by
several small casting companies how frustrating it is when a
modeler orders, essentially, one of everything, and then is
never heard from again.)
I hope that the Enterprise kit does well. Chances are even
at that price level he is not planning to retire soon on the
profits. 8-) It remains to be seen what the demand for such
a kit will be. Ultimately modelers have control over the
quality of kits coming out. By supporting ambitious projects
such as this you assure more will follow. If they do not do
well then we must settle for less detailed, simpler kits at a
lesser price.
Aside from the fact that I believe it just about impossible
to 'rip off' someone in the course of a hobby - after all, it
is not a neccesity, just a pastime, and if prices go too high
you can choose another - you have a very simple alternative;
scratchbuild.
When making a pattern I start with a chunk of acrylic, shape
it with metal working machines, finish it with wood working
machines and hand tools to a 2000 grit finish, detail the part
using a combination of brass and plastic pieces, individually
made, and then ship it to the manufacuturer for production. If
you feel that the finished item is worth it, then purchase it.
If you think prices are too high, then make the items yourself
and then market them at a lesser price - that too is what the
free market is all about. (Kurt Greiner)
****Not to mention the most overlooked fact of all: If a
modeler really wants to build a $1000 ship kit, rather than just
"acquire" it, the number of dollars per hour of entertainment
is probably cheaper than renting a movie on video. A kit of
this magnitude would likely take at least 500 hours to
complete to a reasonable standard, probably more. That seems
to be pretty cheap fun if you ask me. (Hawk137)
***The price of the kit is not an issue. Most of BWN's
products are out of my range, so my only experience is seeing
them at displays of BWN and other vendors at shows. If the
market will support the costs of BWN's products, then so be it.
Hopefully, the escalating costs of unique ships is not a
trend, but if it is, then all of us must be doing quite well.
I understand that R&D, as well as labor and production, are
expensive propositions in today's market, and a business has
the right to make a profit.
As to the assertion that "everyone wants something for
nothing", this is not true, IMHO. Modelers want high quality
kits at fair and reasonable prices. Some may consider $950 a
fair and reasonable price, and others may not, but this
determination is in the opinion of the modeler, and not the
producer. The criticism of the price should have been
expected, and a reasonable response should have been formed
long before all of this transpired. All of this is in the
past though, and hindsight is 20/20, so I agree with the main
point of RBartolacc in that we should all get back to the
hobby. (REDBOZO6)
***'Twould be great to have more kits available of ships,
boats, and other things that make their way upon the oceans!
Blue Water is OK (no offense intended) but maybe too expensive
for many of us. As I've posted before, I have reached the
point where I absolutely refuse to purchase Japanese (Tamiya,
Fujimi, Hasegawa, Aokii, SkyWave, etc., kits because of
comments I've read about 'charging as much as the market will
bear.'
What *is* the cost of having injection mold masters made?
After all, for any model, someone along the way has to make a
master (or steal parts!). Perhaps. if we as ship modelers want
access to new kits, maybe this is the time to get together and
develop and market our own - at cost or close to it! We want
the models, and I'm sure we can generate a list of preferences
quickly. Let's get some sort of list generated, talk among
ourselves, make the masters, and do it!
things to consider:
Scales: 1:700. 1:350. 1:192 (or 1:200), etc.
Mixed media; resin + aftermarket details; injected moldings;
wood with plastic/pewter/Britannia details, etc.
Most of us tend to model warships. I would personally like to
have access to a *good* Liberty or Victory or T2 or even C1 in
1:350. Other 'wants' include vessels from the transition
(U.S.Navy) from sail to steam, particularly 1865-1905 period.
We're not a big market, face it! Possibly, if we cooperate,
we can do one heck of a lot more for each other than any *major*
kit manufacturer would ever attempt. Any Ideas? (RAIcorn824)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part14
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, January 3 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 14) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###################################################
102. Where can I find information... ?
A. There are a number of research sources available.
NOTE: This list is provided by the Nautical Research Guild.
This list is provided as a service to model builders, and the
listing of the businesses does not infer an endorsement of the
products or service by the Nautical Research Guild. Specific
references can be obtained by applying directly to the business.
Contents of this section:
BOOK COMPANIES
MAGAZINES & PUBLICATIONS
PLANS
SOURCES FOR PHOTOGRAPHS
GENERAL
INSTITUTIONS
BOOK COMPANIES
--------------
Antheil Booksellers
2177 Isabelle Court
N. Bellmore, NY 11710
Anthony J. Simmonds 011-44-81-853-1727
23 Nelson Road 44-081-858-4422
Greenwich, London SE10 9JB 44-081-312-6632
England
(antiquarian, new and used books on all aspects of naval and
maritime history)
Antiquarian Archive 415-949-1593
379 State Street
Los ALtos, CA 94022
(Used books, search services)
Armchair Sailor Bookstore
Lee's Warf
Newport, RI 02840
(New and used general maritime)
Bill Corkhill 203-445-0883
21 Country Club Road
Grotton, CT 06340
The Bookstore 800-331-BOOK
Mystic Seaport Museum Store
Mystic, CT 06355
(New and used books)
Centaur Forge Ltd. 414-763-9175
117 North Spring Street 414-763-8350 (FAX)
P.O. Box 340
Burlington, WI 53105-0340
(The company sells blacksmiths & horseshoers' supplies, but the
catalog contians an extensive list of books, some of which --
on topics such as casting, metalworking, engraving, etc. -- may
be of interest -- catalog $5.00)
Coastal Forces
136 West Broadway
Bangor, ME 04401
(Books & plans)
Columbia Trading Company 508-362-8966
504 Main Street (Rt. 6A)
West Barnstable, MA 02668
(Large selection of out-of-print books from stock of 10,000
books) Catalog - Free
Connecticut River Books 203-873-8881
Goodspeed Landing
East Hadam, CT 06423
(Used and rare books)
Contact Market Research Corporation 792-256-4913
9030 West Sahara Avenue #408 702-256-7297
Las Vegas, NE 89117
(book, "HMS Victory - How to Build A Masterpiece in 1:96 Scale")
Cornell Maritime Press 410-758-2478
P.O. Box 456
Centreville, MD 21617
(New books on contemporary maritime)
Crawfords Nautical Books 703-534-8521
5520 North 16th Street
Arlington, VA 22205
Cross Hill Books
P.O. Box 798
Brunswick, ME 04011
Hallenbook 518-392-4526
County Route 9 518-392-4557 (Fax)
P.O. Box 357
Chatham, New York 12037
(Books and videos)
J. Tuttle 608-238-SAIL
1806 Laurel Crest
Madison, WI 53705
(Out-of-print and Rare Books about the Sea, Ship & Sailor)
Jean Boudriot Publications 011-44-1892-852445
Ashley Lodge 011-44-1892-853344 FAX
Rotherfield, East Sussex TN6 3QX, England
(New & facsimily reproductions on European sail)
Edward R. Hamilton
Falls Village, CT 06031-5000
(Some used maritime books)
Edward J. Lefkowitz, Inc. 508-997-6839
Box 630 (508-996-6407 Fax)
Fairhaven MA 02719
(Ships & the sea: rare, antiquarian & select reference books)
Linsey Publications Inc. 815-935-5353
P.O. Box 538 Email: mailto:QBC...@prodigy.com
Bradley, IL 60915-0538
(Specializes in reprints of "unusual technical books of
exceptionally high quality revealing skills and secret
processes almost forgotten." -- free catalog)
Naval Institute Press 800-233-8764
2062 Generals' Highway, Preble Hall
Anapolis, MD 21401-6780
(numerous books, discount to members)
Nimbus Publishing 1-800-646-2879
3731 MacKintosh Street
P.O. Box 9301, Station "A"
Halifax, Nova Scotia B3K 5N5
(A number of people have recommended their book on "Bluenose
II, Saga of the Great Fishing Schooners" by L.B. Jenson.
Price: $19.95)
Pier Books (Dave & Sandy Roach) 914-268-5845
P. O. Box 5 mailto:ro...@ldeo.columbia.edu
Piermont, NY 10968
(Excellent selection of used & new ship modeling & nautical
books; knowledgable)
Phoenix Publications, Inc. 414-377-7888
P. O. Box 128
Cedarburg, WI 53012
(Publishers of ship modeling books)
Brochure - free
Plaza Books 707-996-8474 *NEW*
40 W. Spain
Sonoma CA 95476
(ocasionally has maritime books)
Rocky Mountain Shipyard 970-434-0703
590 Ronlin St. mailto:rlno...@iti2.net
Grand Junction, CO 81504-5570
(books & plans; new books from several publishers, including
Naval Institute Press, Conway, Jean Boudriot, Dover,
International Marine, Phoenix, Pictorial Histories, Mystic
Seaport, and Brown, Son & Ferguson. Stock plans from and/or
by: David MacGregor, Portia Takakjian, Edward Neubauer, Alan
Bates, John Fryant, William Crothers, Computer Lofting, Al
Ross, Edward Wiswesser, Robert McCandliss, Vanguard Model
Marine, plus plans for R/C combat (1:144 scale). )
catalog is $4.00
St. Andrews Books 803-772-4551
Tom & Jill Bettendorf
P. O. Box 210756
Columbus, SC 29221
(used books)
catalog (77 p.) - $3.00
Ten Pound Island Book Co. 508-283-5299
76 Langsford St. mailto:tenp...@world.std.com
Gloucester, MA 01930 http://www.abaa-booknet.com/usa/ten.pound/
(books, marine art, antiques & instruments, logbooks, maps
and charts) -- catalog - free (and now on-line too.)
The Kings Market Bookshop (Robert Wayne) 303-447-0234
mailto:Robert...@kingsmarket.com
(Finder service/bookstore "I have never known him to not come
up with a book, and his prices are quite reasonable. Nautical
books are one of his specialties.")
W. Wiegand & Co.
Box 563
Glastonbury, CT 06033
(Out-of-print Maritime Books -- free catalog)
Catalog - free
Wisconsin Maritime Museum Mariner's Gift Shoppe 414-684-0218
75 Maritime Drive 414-684-0219 (Fax)
Manitowoc, WI 54220
(write for book list)
MAGAZINES & PUBLICATIONS
------------------------
American Boat Modeler (R.C.)
P.O.Box 427
Mount Morris, IL 61054
The American Neptune
The Peabody Museum of Salam
161 Essex Street, East India Square
Salem, MA 01970
(Academic)
Fine Scale Modeler
Kalmbach Publishing Co.
P.O. Box 1612
Waukesha, WI 53187
(Mainly plastic -- $19.95)
The Flag Bulletin 617-729-9410
The Flag Research Center 617-721-4817 (FAX)
P.O. Box 580
Winchester, MA 01980
(bi-monthly journal on flag research; offer asistance to identify
or locate a particular flag)
Live Steam
P.O.Box 169
Traverse City, MI 49685
(Steam Engines, including full-size and model steam boats).
Marine Modelling
Traplet House, Severn Drive
Upton-on-Severn, Worcestershire WR8 0JL
England
The Mariner's Mirror
Derek G. Law, MA Dip.Lib., FLA
Hon. Secretary, The Society for Nautical Research
Librarian, King's College London
University of London, Strand, London WC2R 2LS
England
(Academic)
Model Ship Builder
Phoenix Publications, Inc. 414-377-7888
P. O. Box 128
Cedarburg, WI 53012
Subscription - 1 year (6 issues): $23; 2 years: $43
Model Shipwright
Conway Maritime Press Ltd.
101 Fleet Street 33 John Street
London EC4Y 1DE London WC1N 2AT
England
(English Quarterly)
Subscription - available through The Dromedary; 1 year: $36.00
Nautical Collector 703-550-6609
P.O. Box 16734
Alexandria, VA 22302
(Collectables & maritime history)
Nautical Research Journal
152 Brayton Rd.
Brighton, Mass. 02135-3049
Subscription - 1 year (4 issues): $25; all subscriptions begin
in January.
Plastic Ship Modeler (Dan Jones)
PO Box 2183
Arvada, CO 80001-2183
(Primarily geared to resin builders, but the articles are of
interest to any warship fans - Quarterly; $15.00 US/$20.00
overseas per year.)
Radio Control Boat Modeler
P.O. Box 443
Mount Morris, IL 61054-9858
Scale Ship Modeler
P. O. Box 16149 818-760-8983
No. Hollywood, CA 91606
(mostly modern & RC)
Subscription - 1 year: $26.50
Sea History
National Maritime Historical Society
P.O. Box 68
Peekskill, NY 10566
(Nautical Heritage - $30.00)
Seaways - Ships in Scale 408-978-5657
Seaways Publishing, Inc. mailto:clay...@seaways.com (publisher)
2271 Constitution Dr. mailto:four.winds%b...@wasatch.com (office)
San Jose, CA 95124
Subscription - 1 year: $24.95; 2 years: $46.50
The Egregious Steamboat Journal, Inc. 502-778-6784
Steamboat Masters & Associates, Inc. (Jack E. Custer)
P.O. Box 3046
Louisville, KY 40201-3046
(Bi-monthly)
Subscription - 1 year: $20.00
SubCommittee
Colonel Lester E. Hopper, AUS(Ret)
SubCommittee Membership Chairman
3530 Mimosa Count
New Orleans, LA 70131-8305
RC Submarines - Subscription: $26.00.
U.S. Boat & Ship Modeler
898 W. 16th Street
Newport Beach, CA 92663
Warship International
5905 Reinwood Drive
Toledo, OH 43613
Wooden Boat 207-359-4651
P.O. Box 78
Brooklin, ME 04616
(Full size boats)
Le Chasse Maree
Scop Le Chasse-Mar'ee
Abri du Marin
B P 159
F-29171 Douarnenez Cedex
FRANCE
(the French journal on traditional watercraft)
PLANS
-----
Americal Merchant Marine Museum
Kings Point, NY 11024
(Photos)
Capt. Pete Culler's Plans, George "S" Kelley 508-775-2679
20 Lookout Lane
Hyannis, MA 02601
(Schooners, contemporary designs)
Cartographic & Arch. Br. (NNSC)
National Archives
Washington, DC 20408
(Naval Plans prior to 1945)
Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum
St. Michaels, MD 21662
(Plans of local boats)
Commander (NSES-09B21)
NavalSea Systems Command
Department of the Navy
Washington, DC 20362-5101
(Naval Plans after 1945)
Computer Lofting
470 Hillcrest Pl. #5
Friday Harbor, WA 98250
(Computer generated plans)
details - SASE
Capt. Pete Culler's Plans 508-775-2679
George "S" Kelley
20 Lookout Lane
Hyannis, MA 02601
(101 traditional designs)
price list - $1.00
Dossin Museum
100 Strand on Belle Isle
Detroit, MI 48207.
(This museum has a variety of plans for different type Great
Lakes vessels. They respond promptly to inquiries.)
John Fryant Plans Service
6508 Dorset Drive
Alexandria, Va. 22310-3018
(Model builders plans for riverboats, tugs, bargs and ferries.
Illustrated catalog & price list available listing plans for
thirty five vessels. Price $4.00 U. S.& Canada; $5.00 overseas.)
Floating Drydock mailto:dry...@postoffice.ptd.net
c/o General Delivery http://www.usbusiness.com/drydock/
Kresgeville, PA 18333 (Tom Walkowiak) 610-381-2004 FAX
(Plans photos & books, mainly warships of WWII; catalog $4.50)
Eric A. R. Ronnberg, Jr.
P.O. Box 410
Rockport, MA 01966-0410
(Boston Pilot Scooner HESPER of 1884)
Essex Shipbuilding Museum
28 Main Street
Box 277
Essex, MA 01929
(Plans for Schooner EVELINE M. GOULART, 1:48, $20.00;
P&S +$3.50)
Great Lakes Historical Society
480 Main St.
Vermillion, OH 44089
(Plans and photos of great lakes shipping)
Harold M. Hahn
1212 Gordon Rd.
Lyndhurst, Ohio 44124
(Plans of a number of Colonial-period ships, drawn by Hahn for
modelers -- Send (business size) SASE for price lists.)
Hart Nautical Collections 617-253-5942
The MIT Museum
265 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, MA 02139
(General archival plans)
Mariners Museum
Newport News, VA. 23606
(Photos, a few plans)
The Mariners' Museum Research Library 804-596-2222
100 Museum Drive 804-591-7310 FAX
Newport News, Virginia 23606-3759 mailto:tmm...@infi.net
http://www.mariner.org/mariner
(There is a $10.00 (US dollars) charge for all Library research
requests. There is a minimum Chris-Craft research fee of $15.00
(US dollars). )
Maryland Silver Company 410-647-9634
P.O. Box 6220
Anapolis, MD 21401
188 p. Catalog - $9.00; Product & Price list - $4.50;
Civil War Maps Catalog - $2.50
Mosquito Boat Hobbies 619-949-9814
Bob Sattler
7173 Locust Ave
Hesperia, CA 92345
(PT Boats)
Mystic Seaport
Mystic, CT 06355
(Plans, photos)
National Maritime Museum Association
Bldg. 275, Crissy Field, Presidio of SF
San Francisco, CA 94129
(plans: Steam Schooner WAPAMA 1:96 $20; Scow Schooner ALMA
1:48 $16; monterey fishing boat WETTON 1:12 $16; + $4
shipping (US), $8 overseas)
New Jersey Historical Society
230 Broadway
Newark, NJ 07104
(Collection of plans for oyster boats of S. New Jersey)
Peabody Museum
East Indoa Square
Salem, MA 01970
(Photos)
Philadelphia Maritime Muesum
321 Chestnut St.
Philadelphia, PA 19106
(Photos)
Public Record Office 0181-876-3444
Kew 0181-878-8905 (FAX)
Richmond
Surrey TW9 4DU
England
Steamship Historical Socciety Collection
University of Baltimore Library
1420 Maryland Ave.
Baltimore, MD 21201
(Photos)
Thousand Islands Shipyard Museum
350 Mary St.
Clayton, NY 13624
(Plans for St. Lawrence Skiffs)
Musee de la Marine (33)-1-45533170
Palais de Chaillot (33)-1-47274967 FAX
17 place du Trocadero (33)-1-47550383 (documentation service)
75116 PARIS
France
(The national maratime museum of France; plans available,
including a number of plans designed for ship modelers)
This (French Navy) organisation of "Musee de la Marine" is in charge of
3 or 4 smaller museums in France like in Brest (Britanny):
Musee de la Marine (33)-98221239
Chateau Prefecture Maritime (33)-98433054 FAX
29200 BREST
Beside of this a French "Mystic Sea Port" (much smaller) is in Britanny at:
Port Musee (33)-98926520
place Enfer (33)-98920541 FAX
29100 DOUARNENEZ
Interesting stuff can be found at Marseille (Cote d'Azur) which was a
Greek emporium founded some 2500 years ago. The best is to contact
Mairie (Direction des Musees) (33)-91562838
2 rue Charite (33)-91906301 FAX
13002 MARSEILLE
The Plan Shop (02) 81 2820
64 Victoria Rd, -or- 008 232 705
Drummoyne, (02) 81 3565 (FAX)
Sydney, NSW 2047
AUSTRALIA
(They are actually an arcitectual establishment (houses & the
like), but they order ship plans in from the U.K. (delivery to
anywhere in Australia). The owner aparently has a model ship
interest. )
P. Young
P.O. Box 1228
Lebec, CA 93243
(WWII Subs)
Repla-tech International
P. O. Box 461000, Cole Branch
Los Angeles, CA 90046-4146
(Plans - mostly modern navy - ask for Scale Ship catalog)
Catalog - $3.00
Smithsonian Institution
Division of Transportation, Room 5010, -or- Division of Naval History,
National Musuem of American History room 4017
Washington, DC 20560
Ship Plans
Maritime Collections
NMAH-5010/Mrc 628
Smithsonian Institution
Washington, DC 20560
(ask for The Maritime Administration Collection of Ship Plans
(1939-1970) I think it is $5.00)
Taubman Plans Service International 201-435-5205
11 College Dr., Box 4G 201-985-0438 FAX
Jersey City, N. J. 07305
Very complete plan service, books, research info., MAP plans
- Catalog - $6.50 + $3.50 1st class or $2.00 3rd class shipping;
also has Wiswesser catalog of Warships, Liners, and Merchant
marine for an additional $1.00. Inquiries - send SASE.
Vanguard Model Marine
P.O. Box 708, Station B
Ottawa, Ontario K1P
Canada
Western River Workboats 606-836-1431
1010 Turley Avenue
Flatwoods, KY 41139
(Plans and videos for Inland River Pushboats and Barges
-- Catalog $4.00)
Wisconsin Maritime Museum 414-684-0218
75 Maritime Drive 414-684-0219 (Fax)
Manitowoc, WI 54220
(write for plan list of 19th & 20th century Great Lakes vessels;
plans are typically $7.00 per sheet)
SOURCES FOR PHOTOGRAPHS
-----------------------
*****Liners
Liner Graphics
P.O.Box 29083
Portland, OR 97229-9083
*****Steamboats
Rock Hill Steamboats
Box 402
Louisville, KY 402?
Ralph R. Dupai
Univ of Wisconsin
LaCross Area Res.
Center Murphy-Murphy Library
LaCross, WI 54601
Public Library of Cincinnati & Hamilton County
800 Vine St.
Cincinnati, OH 45202-2791
*****Tugboats
Tugboat Photo & Research
2861 Bardy Road
Santa Rosa, CA 95494
*****Naval
U. S. Naval Institute
Library & Photographic Service
Annapolis, MD 21401
National Archives & Record Service (GSA)
Still Pictures Branch
Washington, DC 20408
L. C. Van Ginderen
Korte Dykstraat 3
2008 Antwerpen, Belgium
INRO
Warships International
1729 Lois Court
Toledo, OH 43613
Real War Photos
P.O.Box 728-S
Hammond, IN 46320
SeaPhoto mailto:SeaP...@aol.com
1145 Oakwood dr.
Millbrae, CA 94030
(photographs taken on board US Navy and other vessels for the
purpose of modeler's documentation. A catalog is $ 5 US /
$ 8 overseas.)
GENERAL
-------
University Microfilms: The UMI InfoStore can do document delivery
for many different items, both in and outside of their collection.
A sample of the types of materials they cover: books, journal articles,
newspaper articles. conference proceedings, government reports,
dissertations, technical reports, NTIS reports, translations, and
manuscripts. Their motto appears to be, "If it exists, we'll find it!".
From inside their collection (i.e. if they have it), you can get 24
hour standard service or 4 hour rush service (by fax). UMI maintains a
copyright clearance center, so all fees are paid.
From outside their collection, the standard service will locate the
document and send it be first class mail within 2-5 working days from
the day the order is received. Next Day service is possible if the
order is received by 1:30 pm EST, and the item will be shipped by Fed
Ex or fax. If a delay happens, the InfoStore will alert you to the
problem. Same Day service is also available if the request is received
by 1:30pm EST.
The InfoStore's prices are as follows:
UMI Collection
Base Rate: $9.00 (first 10 pages, $.25 per page beyond 10)
Copyright Fee: $2.00 (standard charge, some may be higher)
Turnaround time: next-day
Delivery: first-class mail - free; fax - $5.00;
overnight - $11.00; Ariel - free (Fax - $5 in US and Canada;
elsewhere $15.00. $1.00 per page after first ten pages.
Extended Collection
Base Rate: $12.00
Copyright fee: varies
Turnaround time: 2-5 days
Delivery: first-class mail - free; fax - $5.00;
overnight - $11.00; Ariel - free
To find out more, visit their web page at:
http://www.umi.com/infostore , or call them at 1-800-248-0360.
Their e-mail address for orders is: mailto:ord...@infostore.com .
(Anita Cohen-Williams)
INSTITUTIONS
------------
Caution: in most cases, these are staffed by archivists and librarians,
sometimes with little actual knowledge of the collection.
Be as explicit as possible when making requests -- "tell me
about Clipper Ships" will get you nowhere, whereas "do you
have any information on the Clipper ship 'Rainbow'" is MUCH
more likely to get some sort of response.
Also, these institutions have been hard-hit by the
government "down-sizing", expect LONG delays in responses!
(The majority of the following sources are taken from "Naval History
Resources in Washington DC", by Dana M. Wegner, Western Ship Model
Conference, 23 March, 1996.)
Ships Plans
Most existing USN ships' plans 1776-1949, gun plans, maps, and
patent drawings:
o U.S. National Archives
Cartographic Archives (NNSC)
Washington, DC 20408
(301) 713-7040
{mailing address; documents are located at the National
Archive II, 8601 Adelphi Road, College Park, MD 20740-6001}
The only source for ships' plans within the Navy for ships built
after 1949:
o Director of Congressional and Public Affairs
Naval Sea Systems Command
Washington, DC 20362
(703) 602-1575 (703) 602-4982 FAX
Plans of some USN ships 1776 to about 1917, full sized copies
of Howard I. Chappelle plans (catalog available):
o Division of Armed Forces History
Museum of American History
Smithsonian Institution
Washington, DC 20560
(202) 357-2250
Plans for USN small boats:
o Small Boats published periodically by BuShips and NAVSEA
since about 1910.
o The book, Standard Boat Designs for the U.S. Navy, 1900
Reprint by Elliot Press, 1995/96
Plans for USN small boats and coastal craft:
o Naval Sea Combat Systems
Engineering Stations
835 Philpotts Road
Norfolk, VA 23513
(804) 444-9160
Plans of regional and commercial ships including Liberty,
Victory, and MarAd vessels (catalogs available):
o Division of Water Transportation
Museum of American History
Smithsonial Institution
Washington, DC 20560
(202) 357-2025 (202) 357-4356 FAX
Plans for commercial ships:
o National Maritime Museum Association
Bldg. 275, Crissy Field, Presidio of SF
San Francisco, CA 94129
(415) 556-3002 FAX (415) 556-1624
mailto:SAFR_Marit...@nps.gov
o Essex Shipbuilding Museum
28 Main Street
Box 277
Essex, MA 01929
Records
For pension records, steamship inspection reports, census
records, historic motion pictures, etc.:
o U.S. National Archives
Washington, DC 20408
(202) 501-5400
{mailing address; some documents may be located at the
National Archive IIor regional archives nationwide}
Military service records before 1917, agency correspondence,
official reports, etc.:
o U.S. National Archives
Military Records Branch
Washington, DC 20408
(202) 501-5385
Military service records after 1917. You must be related to the
person. Write only:
o National Personnel Records Center
9700 Page Avenue
St Louis, MO 63132
Photos and Prints
Ships, people, and places, 1776 to about 1949:
o Naval Historical Center
Photographic Branch
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374-5060
(202) 433-2765 (202( 433-3593 FAX
o U..S. Naval Academy Museum
118 Maryland Avenue
Annapolis, MD 21402
(410) 293-2108 (410) 269-7940 FAX
{Not a Federal agency}
USN ship, 1945 to present:
o Naval Imaging Command
Washington, DC 20362
Ships, yards, etc.
o U.S. National Archives
Still Picture Branch (NNSP)
Washington, DC 20408
(310) 713-6800
{mailing address; documents are located at the National
Archive II, 8601 Adelphi Road, College Park, MD 20740-6001}
Ships:
o The Library of Congress
Washington, DC 20540
Historical Data
Histories of every U.S. Naval ship until publication date:
o Dictionary of American Naval FIghting Ships, 9 volumes,
published by the Government Printing Office 1959-1991
Ships histories after Dictionary (above):
o Naval Historical Center
Ship's History Branch
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374
(202) 433-3643 (202) 433-3593 FAX
U.S. Navy deck logs:
o Naval Historical Center
Deck Log Section
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374-5060
(202) 433-0824
All unclasified USN log books (index available):
o National Archives
Military Records Branch (NNR1)
Washington, DC 20408
(202) 523-5385
Navy classified operational records post WWII:
o Naval Historical Center
Operational Archives Branch
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374-5060
(202) 433-3224
Navy cruise books:
o Naval Historical Center
Navy Department Library
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374-5060
(202) 433-4133
Interlibrary Loan
o The Navy Library
Washington Navy Yard
Washington, DC 20374
o The Library of Congress
Washington, DC 20540
Individual ships/ship types
o National Liberty Ship Memorial
(supports the liberty ship SS Jeremial O'Brian)
415-441-3101
Other Sources
o Maritime Archaeology and Historical Society
PO Box 44382
L'enfant Plaza
Washington, DC. 20026
o Lake Champlain Maritime Museum
RR#3 Box 4092
Vergennes, VT 05491
(802)475-2022
o Society for Historical Archaeology
P.O. Box 30446
Tuscon, AZ 85751-0446
o Star of India maritime museum in San Diego
(mailto:in...@sdmaritime.com)
Other Countries
Belgium
o Nationa Scheepvaartmuseum
Steenplein 1
Antwerp, Belgium
Canada
o Marine Muesum of the Great Lakes at Kingston
55 Ontario Street
Kingston, Ontario K7L 2Y2
Canada
(Plans and photos)
o B.C. Museum Association
514 Goverment St.
Victoria, B.C.
V8V 4X4
Canada
o Public Archives of Canada
Map COllection
295 Wellington
Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0N3
Canada
(Plans and photos)
Denmark
o Rigsarkivet
Rigsdagsgarden 9
1218 Kobenhaven K (the "o" is actually "o" + "/")
Denmark
England
o National Maritime Muesum
London SE10 9NF
England
(Plans and photos)
o Liverpool Maritime Museum
Albert Dock
LIVERPOOL, L3 4BB., UK.,
telephone 051 207 0001.
o Science Museum
Exhibition Road
South Kensington
London SW7 2DD
o The Boat Museum
Dockyard Road, Ellesmere Port
South Wirral, Cheshire L65 4EF
Phone: (0151) 355 5017
Fax: (0151) 3554079
Open: Daily in the summer; closed Thurs & Fridays in
winter
Displays: A big dock complex at ends of the Shropshire
Union & Manchester Ship Canals was restored
from dereliction. It is now a museum with a
collection of over 50 inland waterway boats,
with little coracles, barges, narrow-boats,
ice-boats, tugs & dredgers.
o National Waterways Museum
Llantony Warehouse
The Docks, Gloucester GL1 2EH
Phone: (01452) 318054
Fax: (01452) 318075
Open: daily
Displays: Models, engines & machinery, hands-on exhibits,
illustrate 200 year history of inland waterways.
Historic craft at quayside. Boat trips, horse-
wagon tours, crafts displays, cargo handling &
storage. AV shows. Shop. British Waterways
Archives.
o The Glasgow City Archivist
Strathclyde Regional Archives
City Chambers
Glasgow G2 1DL
Scotland
o Museum of Transport
25 Albert Dr.
Glasgow G41 2PE
Scotland
France:
o Musee de la Marine
Palais de Chaillot
Place due Trocadero
F75016 Paris France
Germany
o Bundesarchiv
Wiesentalstrasse
7800 Freiburg
Germany
Italy:
o Ministero della Marina Militare
Ufficio Propaganda e Informazione
Lungotevere Arnaldo Da Brescia
00100 Roma (Italy)
o Marina Militre
Museo Storical Navale
30122 Castella
2148 Venezia, Italy
Holland
o Rijksmuseum Nederlandse Schepvaart Museum
Department of Ship Draughts
Kattenburgerpleing 1
1018 KK Amsterdam
The Netherlands
Norway
o Norsk Sjofartsmuseum
Bygdoynesvn 37
Oslow 2, Norway
(plans and photos)
Spain:
o Museo Naval
C/Montalban #2
28071 Madrid Spain. FAX 5231850. Telephone 3795299
o Disputacion Provincial de Barcelona
Museo Maritimo
Barcelona
Spain
Sweden
o Staten Sjohistorisk Museum
Djurgardsbruunsvagen 24
11527 Stockholm
Sweden
(plans and photos)
o Military Records Office
Krigsarkivet
Box 80038 S-104 50
Stockholm
Sweden
(Naval plans)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part08
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, January 3 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 08) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
RIGGING
=======
36. What can be used for fine rigging line?
A: Traditionally, linen thread has been proven in use for hundreds
of years.
***I went through the same thing and finally found *the* answer:
nylon monofiliment fishing line. Use 1lb test and drag it across
the top of a permanent ink marker to blacken it, then attach
it w/super glue. You get the tension, it won't pull loose (well,
not easily) and it looks *great*! (Alexander Ishii):
Mono fishing line is available in different colors, including
"black" (no real need for using the permanent marker).
Generally, however, the various colors are more expensive than
regular fishing line; particularly, if the color is only
available as "tippet" material (a particular kind of fishing
line).
***You can also use fine wire. One source I've found locally
(silicon valley) is a "pulse transformer"...these use copper
wire .005 (more or less). They are frequently encapsulated in
epoxy, but the shell can be broken off and the wire salvaged.
I've not used it, but I understand that tungsten wire is made
for light-bulbs in sizes down to .0005 inch! I also understand
that it is dangerous to work with, because it is so strong that
the possibility of amputation is very real! The ultimate in
"paper cuts". Anyway, one might be able to get a couple of
feet of this from a light-bulb manufacturer and try using it.
Of course, how do you CUT it? (John Kopf)
***Yesterday I went to a fly fishing store to get some rigging
material. They carry a product called "Tippet line" or something
like that. Its a monofilament and you can get it in various
widths. I bought two spools; one was .003" (8X) and the other
.005" (6X). The spools at the place I went (Kaufman's Streamborn
in Seattle) cost US$3.75 each and carry 30 meters of line per
spool. In other words: enough.
I wandered around the store some to see what other things might
be good. I found lead wire of various diameters there also. I
bought two spools of that; one .01" the other .02" for US$1.50
each.
Check out your local resources or Kaufman's has a mail order
service. You can call them at 1(800)442-4359 or FAX (503)
684-7025. (Stephen Tontoni)
***There is not one supplier of ship model rigging line that
sells appropriately sized line for ratlines; it is all too
heavy! The only source I have found for ratline material are
the shops that cater to the fly fishing folks that tie their
own lures. There is a thread on the market that is composed of
a synthetic fibre that comes in varying diameters down to .004.
It also comes in a variety of colours inclusive of black and
ecru. The brand name to ask for is UNI-THREAD. It makes great
looking ratlines and is pre-waxed.
Over the years there has been much discussion about the use of
silk thread for the rigging of ship models. It was always the
same old story; it will rot, decompose or deteriorate. Until I
found out about this new UNI-THREAD, I had been using silk fly
tyers thread for ratlines. This is about 35 years of dead
serious and active ship modeling! Not once did I ever have a
problem with fibre deterioration! If you have an opportunity
to pick up some fine silk thread for ratlines and seizings,
don't hestitate, It will serve you well. (Dana McCalip)
37. How does one assemble rigging?
A: Normally, one does the "standing rigging" (that which holds up
the masts, etc.) FIRST, and then the "running rigging" (that
which works the sails -- these lines are the ones with PULLEYS).
Because of the complexity of the rigging, it's best to start at
the bottom and center and work your way up and out...if you put
the outer lines on first, then you have to work THROUGH them to
reach the inner lines.
When possible, it's best to apply as much rigging to a mast on
the workbench BEFORE actually mounting it on the model, and
then finishing it off. "helping hands" are useful for such
tasks as putting strops around blocks, but not much help when
working on the model itself. A couple of hemostats (I find mine
at the local flea market) are useful, but I tend to use them
most to attach to the end of a line as a weight to keep it
straight while working on it. Tweezers are also useful, and
a couple of other tools you can make yourself out of knitting
needles and dowels for handles:
take a needle, mash one end flat, and file a V in the end --
useful to PUSH ropes; Take another, mash the end, and drill a
small hole through it -- useful to thread a line through the
hole to work a line through the rigging; Take a third, flatten
the end, and file a hook on one side -- useful to PULL a line
through the rigging.
***Some of the best little tools I have ever used on boat
rigging came from my mom's sewing basket! Needle threaders are
invaluable for threading the rigging through eyelets. A good
pair of tweezers is a help, but the best kind are the
"reversable" tweezers, the kind that apply pressure when you
are NOT gripping them. Great for guiding tricky threads.
Finally, a good pair of manicuring scissors for the fine
cutting and clipping needed. I have a pair with points so tiny
on them that it is hard to see the cutline they make.
(Aaron Taylor)
38. How do I install ratlines?
A: My current practice is to install the masts without the yards
but including any masthead platforms. After installing the
shrouds in a prototypical manner, I use the "smallest" gauge
needle I can lay my hands on to sew the ratlines through the
shrouds. In any reasonable scale the prototypical knots will
be virtually invisible if you are using appropriately sized
thread. After the tedious sewing job is done I brush a semi-
gloss black enamel to simulate the tarred seizing of the
shrouds. This also cements the ratlines into place permanently,
so make any needed adjustments before reaching for the
paintbrush!
Stretching the thread and soaking it with a thin wash of white
glue and letting it dry will stiffen it, which may be an
advantage (but real ratlines were NOT straight -- they hung in
curves between the shrouds). (John Bonnett)
***Here are some things I have picked up over the years.
Most shroud/ratline jigs, or preformed shroud/ratline sets,
don't really work all that well. It is very hard to get uniform
tension when installing them. Go for true, independent shrouds
and ratlines.
Get a book on rigging - several books on model ships in my
local library have sections on rigging.
Tools -
Several sets of tweezers, including; long set, and
"normally closed" ones.
A hook. Something like a crochet hook (I make my own
out of coat hanger wire, pound the end flat and file
in the hook).
A fork, about same length as hook, made same way.
Both hook and fork should be six to eight inches long.
Work sessions. Do not work too long at any one time, even
when more experienced. If I have not been doing ship rigging
for awhile, I limit myself to 1/2 hour sessions. Never more
than one hour at a time.
Simplify rigging. For a novice, concentrate on standing
rigging. If you are not going to be adding sails, the ship
would appear as in port, or at anchor for an extended period.
One can then omit much of the running rigging. If you do a
fair job at the standing rigging, adding just a minimal running
rigging can result in a very nice looking model.
One problem on plastic models is that you cannot put as much
tension as you might like on lines. So getting EVEN tension is
important. HOWEVER, if you look at photos of sailing ships in
their day, only navy ships were all square and nice. Masts
were really askew on many merchant ships. So if your masts
look more like corkscrews, just claim it is prototypical.
(Don Stauffer)
39. Do ratlines extend beyond the futtock shrouds to the lubbers
hole? Is the futtock shroud tied directly to the main shroud?
A: Futtock shrouds are terminated at lower ends in a variety of
ways, depending on which mast, and how large a ship. For
larger masts they usually were NOT tied to shrouds of mast
below. (Don Stauffer)
40. Why do I have more lines than points to belay them? (Ben
Langford)
A. The lack belaying plans on late 18th and early 19th century
vessels has always been a puzzler.
On small vessels does a line really have to belay to a pin?
What about cleats, especially shroud cleats. About 10 years
ago my wife and took a holiday up on Georgian Bay and visited
Penetanguishene, Ontario. There they have a privately run
historical tourist attraction called the The Historic Naval and
Military Establishment. This, on the site of the old Royal
Naval Base and Military Headquarters for HM Forces during the
latter part of the 18th Century. On the site was an old
building which house a treasure trove of artifacts consisting
of ships rigging gear, tools, etc. all of the period. There
were dozens of shroud cleats on hand and partially hewn bitt
heads. All acceptable substitutes for belaying pins.
Some years ago Chapelle and I were discussing belaying points
on small vessels such as schooners and the like and he indicated
that at times it was not uncommon to take a line around the base
of a deadeye. As long as it would hold and could easily be let
go was his only criteria.
As far as more than one line to a single pin I have always
heard that that is entirely OK and the rule I have been
following is related lines are OK for a commmon pin. That is
to say a bunt line and a clew line for the same sail could be
put on the same pin. It stands to reason when the buntline was
let go, the clew would be also. (Dana L. McCalip)
***Another belaying site in this era- at least in the smaller
vessels I have been interested in, is the shroud-lashed pin rail
secured above the deadeyes at about chest height. A very fine
depiction of this format can be found in Merritt A. Edson, Jr.'s
three panel drawing "A Rigging Plan for the Shoreham Cutter, c.
1765, published in "Seaways' Ships in Scale", Volume 4, Number
2, March-April, 1993, on page 73. (Clayton A. Feldman)
***RE: schooners. I just finished restoring a model of a 1930's
schooner yacht. I went crazy trying to figure out the belaying
points for this relatively simple vessel. Chapelle says one
thing (primarily about fishing schooners), and other references,
like Edson's book about the Bluenose, said something else. No
reference I could find (and my library is admittedly incomplete),
had a clear explanation or even generic plan for belaying points.
I even looked at kit plans (such as, for a Revenue Cutter and a
Baltimore Clipper), and they were hard to figure out, incomplete,
or conflicted with what other plans said. I'm sure part of my
problem was that I was looking at references for different
periods and for different types of schooners...but I was
desparate!
Some old full-rigged ship models I have repaired clearly have
some lines "attached" to the shrouds.
Boy, it sure would be nice to have some clear plans for each
basic kind of vessel...at least for schooners and ships. Couldn't
some basic rules of thumb and a generic plan for each type be
presented? (David Blanchard)
***On the Star of India, launched 1863, an iron hulled bark, we
only doubled the bunt lines on a single pin. Shroud cleats, deck
cleats, etc.. were only used for temporary belaying such as
cargo handling or re rigging. I also researched and built a
model of her ,circa 1910, and the rig was almost the same. When
she was launched, she was a full rigged ship, and even then
didn't double up lines. From '89 to '93, I sailed three times
and never encountered a reason to double up lines. When Turner's
Bounty was in San Diego, we were asked to bend on a new foresail
(her crew didn't know how) and they had many lines doubled on
belaying pins. It was a nightmare trying to work that way and we
were tied to the dock. I don't see how they sailed that way. In
an emergency, the only thing to do would be to cut the lines, and
then control would be gone. (Bob Cunningham)
***James Lees' book, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of
War 1625-1860 says that belaying pins in shroud racks dates back
to about 1745 on small ships but was not seen on larger vessels
until the end of the 18th century.
Steel's, "Elements of Masting, Rigging and Sail Making" 1794
edition mentions wood and iron belaying pins and the use of
shroud racks but does not mention the size of ships they were
used in. An interesting note is that Steel describes iron
belaying pins as being tapered from the middle towards each end
and driven into boards, called racks. Taken literally, this
sounds like a different shape then what we are used to seeing.
(This is my own comment)
Keep in mind that all of this refers to English practice and
one is left in the dark about American or continental European
practice. It might be almost safe to assume that American
practice could be somewhat similar, given no other information
being available. (Dana McCalip)
***Course sheets are held as far outboard as possible. In many
cases, there is a relief in the bulwark just to accomadate the
lead of the sheet. It was held as far aft as possible. It's
unlikely that a course sheet would be belayed at either fife
rail. (Jim Eagle)
***When I mentioned pins I meant to include both pins and cleats.
Sometimes there is not enough of either one. I also get puzzled
with ships that have cleats on one mast and a fife rail on the
other, yet the two masts have basically the same rigs aloft.
With these inconsistencies there is absolutely no way you can
belay lines in the same location at the two masts. (Ben Langford)
***I'm no expert on period ship rigging, but I am an ex-USCG
Barque EAGLE sailor.
I can understand how difficult it would be to bend on a new sail
with lines doubled up on pins. That operation, however, is
somewhat unusual, and doesn't directly relate to day-to-day sail
handling operations. EAGLE has a pin for every line, but in a
pinch, we could have gotten by with some lines doubled up, such
as the buntlines on the royals, t'gallants, and topsails.
Obviously, certain lines (halyards, lifts, sheets) would need
their own pins to be accessible during normal and emergency
operations. Tending the bunts and clewlines while setting sail,
for example, is a fairly simple task. All you need to do is
ensure that the lines run freely, and don't foul in the blocks.
When setting the royal or t'gallant for example, one person
would handle the 3 lines on the port pinrail (bunt,bunt,clew)
and another would handle the stbd side. This freed up everyone
else to help on the halyard, where they were needed when trying
to set the sail with just the 10-12 man watch section.
So, while modern practice does not necessarily mean anything
when looking at period ships, I do believe that certain lines
could have been doubled up on pins and still handled safely.
(Bill Michaels)
***A very interesting thing I ran across when doing the Bluenose.
Gloucester schooners had shroud bars with pins which gave them
plenty of pins to belay. The Bluenose did not use shroud bars at
all, so they really restricted themselves. Luckily I found
enough pins in the pin rails with some doubeling up.
The problem with a generic plan is that you may illustrate it
with enough pins, then when you do your ship which has less pins
you are stuck again. There are some plans around in books and
NRG that give you a general idea. NRG shop notes has the
Constitution and I think a whaler. For fishing schooners you
have Chapelle, so there are those, but as I said I still get
lost on a particular ship. Out of necessity I have to belay a
line where it probably should not go, but what do you do when
all the other pins are used up. I try to juggle back and forth
but this changing drives you crazy.
I made a mistake. I meant to say topsail sheets. They do come
down to the fife rail or could go outboard. The point I was
trying to make is that if you belay the sheets on the forward
cross bar at foremast, and then must belay to the side rail at
main since there is no forward rail, then you have a difference
in the location at fore and main masts.
(Ben Langford)
***According to RC Anderson in "Seventeenth Century Rigging", he
shows as typical at least until the early eighteenth century, as
many as three lines on a pin (e.g. spritsail topsail sheet, spt
tops'l clueline, spt buntline). There were also cleats & kevels
(sometimes lashed to the yards). (Dale Elhardt)
***I participated in the partial re-rigging of the Lettie G.
Howard, a Glocester fishing schooner now at South Street Seaport
Museum in New York City, back in the lates 60's. I don't recall
that we had any difficulty finding adequate belay points for her
even though she did not have pin rails on the shrouds.
(Fred Petillo)
41. How can rigging line be made to hang naturally?
A: Try washing the thread in warm soapy water, rinse it out, and
hang up to dry with a weight on the end so it doesn't develop a
lot of kinks. This will remove any "sizing" that makes the line
stiff. The alternative is "spinning" your own rope from fine
threads -- this is a lot of work but results in very "limp"
rope. If neither of these work, you may also be able to mix up
white glue and water with a drop of detergent (as a wetting
agent), soak the thread, and while still wet apply it to the
model; then let it dry in place using a piece of scrap as a
"form" to give it it's shape.
42. Does anyone have any really good ways to get the fuzz on model
rigging (silk, nylon or cotton) to lay down and smooth out
without varnishing the threads so they become stiff and shiny?
(Robert Godfrey)
A: The traditional method is to draw the lines through a lump of
beeswax; this will bond all of the fibers to the line.
On the other hand, if you're talking about lines ALREADY on a
model, that IS a problem. You might want to try dissolving
some beeswax in turpentine, and paint it on the lines.
Beeswax can be found in fabric / sewing stores - used to
smooth and lubricate sewing thread. (John Kopf)
***Your friendly neighborhood notions shop (i.e. Jo-Ann
Fabrics, So-Fro, or any others of that ilk, to include Wal-Mart)
sell a bee's-wax applicator just for waxing thread. It takes
off the fuzz, gives it a semigloss shine rather than a bright
shine, and leaves the thread pliable and fuzzless. They run
less than two bucks. (Cookie Sewell {mailto:amp...@aol.com})
***The conventional way is to run the line across the edge of
a beeswax block, For very bad line, run the line *quickly*
through a candle *flame*, then do the wax treatment.
(Clayton A. Feldman, MD)
***How about pulling the threads across a wax candle and then
running them between thumb & finger?
(Simon Craven)
You could try Armor All or a like product. It has worked for
me when cleaning up older uncased models. (J. J. Gordon Jr.)
***You can also find wax at any store selling fly fishing
equipment. It is also used for waxing the thread when tying
fishing flies. (Sten Ekedahl)
***Well, what about "painting" each line with a diluted
solution of white glue? This should "harden" any fuzzballs to
the point where they'd be easier to trim, and any shininess
could be defeated with dullcoat. (John Beaderstadt)
***Thanks for the several responses and good ideas. As John
Kopf observed, I was talking about rigging already on a model,
which, as he says, is quite a different matter and more
difficult problem indeed. For example, I don't know about the
burning off fuzz with a candle flame on the rigging of a
finished model, although the idea sounds good if one were
compelled to use fuzzy line so bad beeswax wouldn't smooth it
down. (Robert Godfrey)
43. Could someone 'in the know' give me advice on how to build small
blocks for model sailing ships? I'm talking about blocks about
1/16 - 3/32 inch in size. What's the recommended technique, what
type of wood is best, etc?
A. Get a long piece of strip stock the same cross section as your
block should look. For instance, if you want a block to be
3/32 high and 1/16 wide as viewed looking straight through the
hole then get a piece of 3/32 x 1/16 x 12 strip stock (or cut
your own!). Round the edges of the strip with sand paper.
Drill the correct number of holes into the stock from the end.
Drill only deep enough to cover the depth of a couple of block.
This will insure that the hole(s) run true. If you try to do
too deep the holes will wander off center.
Now for each block (I usually do 3 - 5 at a time) make a score
around the strip stock to create the groove for stroping the
block. What you are doing is working down the strip stock
creating a few blocks at a time. It is easier to work with
them on the strip.
Now cut each block out seperately and round with sand paper.
Finish with stroping of your choice.
v v v grooves around strip for strops
------------------------------
! ! ! |
==!===!===!== < hole
! ! ! |
-----------------------------
^ ^ ^ cut here when grooves are cut
This is a very simple method but it works for me. If you can
get the hole to run true you can mass produce a number of
blocks at a time this way.
Boxwood is a nice wood to work with but I have has success with
basswood using this method. You need a fine grain so the wood
won't splinter when you drill the hole. (David Loseke)
***Personaly, I cheated and bought the ones for my model of
HMS Victory from Model EXPO. They list single sheaves down
to 3/32. I found that 1/8 was the right size for a 1/98 scale.
(George Wallace)
44: In the past I have left sails off my scale ship models because
I have yet to find a suitable material to make them out of.
If anybody has any suggestions, I would appreciate hearing
them. (Chuck Cowman)
A: A traditional material is "drafting linen"; fine linen cloth
'sized' with starch...just wash the Heck out of it and iron it
flat.
Unfortunately, it's almost impossible to find these days,
having been replaced by drafting mylar. (John Kopf)
***We static modeling type use drafting linen. Should just be
perfect at pond scales. The sizing needs to be scraped off
after boiling, though. The linen can be lightly spray-starched,
cut into bolt-wide cloths and sewed together full-size fashion.
It's great stuff. (Clayton A. Feldman, MD)
***On really small scale ships Tissue paper that you find in
shoe boxes can work well if your really careful. You fix them
to yardarm jig, turn on a fan, and set with a clear lacquer.
In larger scales I've used fine linen hankys with some sucess.
These can also be set on a yardarm jig.
{mailto:star...@tir.com}
***I think I just found a solution to this very problem. In my
case it was a set of sails for a RC schooner. I couldn't get
the sails right. I used a tight weave cotton, pure white.
Then to get the ribbing I traced the lines I wanted with a
pencil and sewed along them. Then I dyed the lot with some
stale coffee to get the right color. They really look great.
The only part I'm not satisfied with are the edge seams which I
did with a hem stitch. When I find a way around that, they'll
be perfect, but for now I will say that they look really good.
There is also a guy in rec.models.rc.water who makes sails for
people...you can look him up. (David Shein)
***You forgot to tell what scale your sailing ships are; that
makes a lot of difference. For actual pond sailing models
(about 30") of Gloucester fishing schooners I have had good
success with some plastic cut from shopping bags - not the
opaque white or colored stuff but there are some made from a
transluscent (not transparent) sort of gray, tough plastic that
is quite thin. The nice part is that you can use cement rather
than sewing. I lay a bolt rope around the edge and cement a
folded over hem leaving cringles at the corners. Such sails can
be reefed when desired, are light, do not absorb water and
avoid making the boat top heavy.
For ships in bottles, of course, nose tissues work well, can
be stained with tea, stiffened a bit with thinned shellac, and
can be drawn upon.
Unless you are working on a very large scale I expect it would
be hard to find a fabric with fine enough weave and then sew it
finely enough to avoid getting out of scale. (Albert P. Rauber)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part13
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, January 3 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 13) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
101. Where can I find... ?
(This part is a continuation of part 12)
101-D. LUMBER & OTHER MATERIALS
------------------------
Ace Resin (John Nitka) 602-886-8051
7481 E. 30th Street
Tucson, AZ 85710
"At this year's IPMS Nationals, I ran across a vendor which
seemed to have a very good product - both the RTV rubber and
the resin. The rubber I have been getting (Dow-Corning 3110,
I think) seems to be similar to theirs, but the resin seems a
whole lot better than anything else that I have worked with.
John Roll"
A.D.M. Model Supplies
P.O.Box 162491
Altamonte Springs, FL 32716-2491.
(Ultra Pro-Shape is a plastic material, which can be used
fir carving, turning, ewtc. A small sample of Ultra Pro-Shape
and a brochure can be had for <I think> $3.50)
A&M Wood Specialty, Inc. 519-653-9322
358 Eagle Street North 519-653-3441 FAX
P.O. Box 32040 800-447-9344 Orders ONLY
Cambridge, Ontario N3H 5M2
Canada
(They carry an extensive line of all kinds of woods including
boxwood (Castello and English), pear (swiss and domestic),
ebony, lignum vitae, cherry, holly, etc. They publish a
quarterly inventory sheet.)
Alumilite Corp. 616-342-1259
225 Parsons Street 616-342-1299 FAX
Kalamazoo, MI 49007
(Casting products, low viscosity resins; new product:
$PINcaster-9, machine for casting parts in plastic and
low-temperature metals)
Ambroid (Manuel Usle) 802-885-9244
P.O. Box 38 802-885-9223 FAX
Springfield, VT 05156
(They make other things besides model airplane glue, for which
they are best known.)
American Art Clay Co.
4717 W. 16th Street
Indianapolis, IN 46222
("Brush'n Leaf" liquid metal finishes)
American Science & Surplus 847-982-0870
3605 Howard Street 800-934-0722 FAX
Skokie, IL 60076 http://www.sciplus.com
(Mica sheets - for windows, etc.; LOTS of other stuff too.)
Artistry in Veneers, Inc. 908-668-1430
450 Oak Tree Ave.
South Plainfield, NJ 07080
(Veneers, including Pear, Ebony, etc. Catalog $1.50)
Auto-Etch
P.O.Box 12921-A
Philadelphia, PA 19108
(Home etching system)
Badger Air-Brush
9128 W. Belmont Avenue
Franklyn Park, IL 60131
(Well-known name in air-brushes)
Balsa USA 906-863-6421
P.O. Box 164 906-863-5878 FAX
Marinette, WI 54143
(High quality CA glues...lower allergy symptoms)
Belmont Metals, Inc. 719-342-4900
Attn: Phil Karmel
330 Belmont Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11207
(Britannia metal $12 + in bulk)
Berea Hardwoods (Warehouse) 216-234-7949
6367 Eastland Rd.
Cleveland OH
- or -
Berea Hardwoods (Office) 216-243-4452
125 Jacqueline Drive,
Berea OH 44017
(specializing in unusual woods, but also a good source for
more mundane species. The proprietor is fun to talk to.)
Circuit Board Supplies, Inc. 708-595-7570
820 Maple Lane
Bensonville, IL 60106
(Copper foil in bulk)
Cindy's Stiches 708-368-5183
1449 Glencoe Avenue
Highland Park, Il 60035
(Linen thread for lacemakers -- and rigging.)
Clotilde 800-772-2891
2 Sewsmart Way
B8031
Stevens Point, WI 54481-8031
(source for silk thread)
Constantine 800-223-8087
2050 Eastchester Road
Bronx, NY 10461
(Specialty wood for crafts)
Craft Woods 800-468-7070
2101 Greenspring Drive
P.O. Box 527
Timonium, MD 21093
(Carving woods, tools, books, etc. -- free catalog)
Deknatel
Queen's Village
New York, 11429
(Supplies braided surgical silk (non-sterile). Available in
spools pf 25 yards or 100 yards in black or white. '7-0'
measures as .003" and '6-0' measures as .0045".)
Eager Plastics 312-927-3483
3701 South Halstead
Chicago, IL 60609
(Casting materials, resins, RTV, etc.)
Edmond Scientific Co.
101 East Gloucester Pike
Barrington, NJ 08007-1380
(Gears, motors, etc.)
Evergreen Scale Models
12808 N.E. 125th Way
Kirkland, WA 98034
(Plastic material, sheet, formed shapes)
Flagship Models
2204 Summer Way Lane
Edmond, OK 73013
(1:700 photoetched warship fittings)
Floquil-Polly S Color Corp. 518-843-3610
4715 State Hwy 30
Amsterdam, NY 12010-9204
(Model ship scale colors; they will send you catalog and
order form if you give them a call.)
FOTOCUT 315-662-3356
F. Hultberg
Box 120
Erieville, NY 13061
(Photo etching from your camera ready copy)
Fowler's Miniatures in Wood 916-478-8919
18175 Blue Tent School Rd.
Nevada City, CA 95959
(A dollhouse supplier, but also carries a variety of woods.
Can also do custom milling of your timber. Free wood price
list.)
Gold Medal Models
Route 2
Box 3104
Lopez, WA 98261
(1/350 to 1/700 photoetch sets for WWII and modern ships)
Gilmor Wood Co. 503-274-1271
2211 N.W. St. Helens Road 503-274-9839 (Fax)
Portland OR 97210
(large variety of unusual woods, such as 16/4 pear, etc.)
GLOBEX (Mike Redman) 510-568-1851
6836 Outlook Ave. 510-521-5409 (Fax)
Oakland, CA 94605
(specializing in laser cutting to your plans! Has the
capability of digitizing from the plans, scaling the resulting
CAM drawings, and cutting the parts for whatever you want --
bulkhead, Hahn system, or dockyard! Also has kits consisting
of ALL parts laser cut for Hahn system, or major parts along
with wood for you to cut. Also does laser cutting for other kit
suppliers.)
H-R Products
P.O. Box 67
McHenry, IL 60051
(Manufacturer of cast naval fittings)
K&S Engineering 312-586-8556
6917 W. 59th Street
Chicago, IL 60638
(Sheet & formed metal shapes, drills, taps, dies -- Catalog
$1.00)
Kiyo Design (Nancy Hoyt) 410-280-1942
11 Annapolis St.
Annapolis MD
(Potential model sailmaking material, both all natural and
mixed natural/synthetic, which looks like just the thing for
us -- up to about 200 threads per inch. Ask for "down cambric"
or "swiss pima batiste")
Lace Place De Belgique 407-368-0808
800 S.W. 17th St.
Boca Raton, Fla. 33486
(Linen thread for lacemakers -- and rigging.)
The Lacemaker 206-486-0940
23732-G Bothell Hwy. SE
Bothell, Ga 98021
(Linen thread for lacemakers -- and rigging.)
The Lumberyard (Dave Stevens) 216-526-2173
6908 Stadium Dr.
Brecksville, OH 44141
(Pre- and custom-cut hardwoods - pre-cut framing timbers for
HAHN models)
Details - SASE; Catalog $2.00
Metal Buyers Mart 708-628-8620
N15 W22218 Watertown Rd. 1-708-628-8747 FAX
Unit #3
Waukesha, WI 53186
(This source has an excellent variety of brass rod in numerous
shapes and cross sections as well as nickle silver along with
many others. They also carry phosphor bronze sheet which makes
into great scrapers for shaving wood. The catalog is $3.00 and
contains a glossary and table concerning the various metals and
what they can be used for. Pricing is reasonable and is
configured for small purchases.)
Nancy's Notions, Ltd. 800-833-0690
P.O. Box 683
Beaver Dam, WI 53916-0683
(source for silk thread)
Newark 800-736-6783
6473 Ruch Road
P.O. Box 27030
Lehigh Valley, PA 18002-0730
(source for silk thread)
Northeastern Scale Models, Inc. 508-688-6019
P. O. Box 727SE
Metheun, Mass. 01844
(Laid-up decking, shaped lumber - 1/4 & 1/2 round, double-bead,
stripwood)
Catalog - $1.00
Pelican Wire Co., Inc 813-597-8555
6266 Taylor Road
Naples, FL 33942
(Nichrome wire for laying up wire rope)
Phoenix Model Co. 904-754-8522
(all types of models, some non-main-line manufacturers, 15-25%
sales)
Plastruct 800-666-7015
1020 S. Wallace Place
City of Industry, CA 91748
(Sheet and shaped plastic)
Photofabrication Engineering Inc.
500 Fortune Drive
Milford, MA
(They do a nice job and generally supply in 18" x 24" sheets.
As a general rule, if you send them the artwork, it will cost
about $250 for the first sheet (set up fees, art fees, etc.);
after that, sheets are about $30. -- Al Ross)
Precision Scale Model Engineering 508-478-3148
33 Harding Street
Milford, MA 01757
(Tools, gears)
Roman Barzana 813-882-4925 (6:30-10 p.m. EST)
8102 N. Sheldon Rd. #1308
Tampa FL 33615
(Fine woods for the serious artist)
Robin's Bobbins 404-374-6916
Rt 1 Box 1736
Mineral Bluff, Ga 30559
(Linen thread for lacemakers -- and rigging.)
The Scale Shipyard (Lee Upshaw) 310-428-5027
5866 Orange Ave. # 3 mailto:Scals...@aol.com
Long Beach, CA 90805
(Makes fiberglass hulls for both the Gato & Balao class subs of
WW II in 1/8"=1', 1/4"=1' and 1:72 scales. These are hulls with
the fiberglass conning tower, cast resin dive planes and cast
metal guns and fittings, alot of scratch building is required
to build these and they are for the more advanced modeler but
plenty of novices have built these, they have good accuracy and
the 2 larger boats are suitable for R/C. It should be noted that
these are not kits. Their 1996 submarine only catalog is now
available for $3.00. The full catolog of the surface ships in
these same scales is available for $6.00.)
Small Parts Inc. 800-423-9009
13980 N.W. 58th Court 303-558-1255 (catalog)
P.O. Box 4650 303-557-7955 (service)
Miami Lakes, FL 33014-0650
(Gears, shapes, parts, screen, etc.)
Special Shapes Co.
P.O. Box 487
Romeoville, IL 60441
(Small brass structural shaoes -- catalog $1.00)
Ron Stetkewicz, minaturist 518-622-8311
HCR-1 Box 61B
Cairo, NY 12413
(Photo etching from your camera ready copy)
Stock Drive Products 516-328-3300
2101 Jerico Turnpike
Box 5416
New Hyde Park, NY 11042
(Belt drives for R/C)
Testor Corporation (Nancy Rainwater) 815-962-6654
620 BuckBee Street 815-962-7401 FAX
Rockford, IL 61104
(Model piants, airbrushes)
Van Dyke's Restorers 605-796-4425
4th Ave & 6th St. 1-800-843-3320 (orders only)
PO Box 278
Woonsocket, SD 57385
(primarily house/furniture restoration supplies, but some
odd item hard to find elsewhere -- such as MICA...useful for
model ports, windows, etc.)
Von Huene Workshop, Inc. 617-232-6288
65 Boylston Street
Brookline, MA 02146
(Boxwood! $3.oo/pound, $45 minimum, + postage. This is a maker
of musical instruments, such as recorders; this wood is of
excellent quality, but consists of pieces he can't use - off
cuts, slabs, pieces with knots and splits; still a great source
- our club bought 40+ lbs and resold individual pieces to
members at $.20/oz.)
Warner Woods West 310-326-5177 (eve. & wkends)
2083 Reynosa Drive
P. O. Box 5173
Torrance, CA 90510
(Dommestic & Imported woods, pre- & custom cuts - single, double
triple blocks. Also has taken over the line of linen thread
formerly provided by Unicorn Books and Crafts. Details - SASE)
101-E. MISCELLANEOUS
-------------
AMW 207-633-3698
P.O. Box 384
East Boothbay, ME 04544-0348
(Custom display cases)
BK Engraving Co. 617-451-1483
373 Washington Street
Boston, MA 02108
(Brass nameplates engraved to order)
Eclectic Products, Inc 1-800-767-4667
(Information on contact cement (!) )
Conservation Products Company 702-331-0582
1165 Marietta Way
P.O.Box 2884
Sparks, Nevada 83131
(products for conservators (e.g, antiques, books, etc.); some
are useful for cleaning ship models.)
Gbishop 510-820-1986
Geoffrey Bishop
P.O. Box 874
Danville CA 94526
(Resin "dollhouse" architectural castings, but some of them can
provide sources for carved ornimental mouldings - catalog $2.00)
George M. Creations
Crane Rd. Rd 12
Carmel, NY 10512
(Museum Quality Display Cases - Free Brochure)
H&B Precision Card Models 703-281-0813
2026 Spring Branch Dr. 703-281-0813 (FAX)
Vienna, Virginia 22181-2973
(Paper model kits of ships, planes, cars, gliders, space shuttle
and dinosaurs -- catalog: $5.00 with $5.00 coupon)
H. B. Rusk Company 316-552-7381
1279 S. Minnesota
Wichita, KS 67211
(Custom oak display cases)
Hotchkiss Manufacturing 800-444-5005
484 Pleasant Valley Road 503-476-4418 (in OR)
Merlin, OR 97532 http://www.chatlink.com/~hotchkiss
mailto:hotc...@chatlink.com
("Case Clear", cleans and glazes glass and plexiglass)
HY-TECH 301-916-2280
P. O. Box 111
Odenten, MD 21113-0111
(Fail safes, automatic light controls, water detectors,
automatic circuit breakers and voltage regulators)
Itty Bitty Builder 510-947-1572
Larry Herman
405 Kirby Court
Walnut Creek, CA 94598
(Doll house stuff, scales 1:12, 1:24, 1:48; some of the latter
might be useful for ship modeling)
J. A. Gates, Cabinet Maker 207-967-2405
P. O. Box 272
Cape Porpoise, ME 04014
(Museum quality hand rubbed cherry cases. Beautifully finished
and reasonably priced. Satisfaction guaranteed)
Jim Campbell, Artist 408-453-6173
335 W. Rosemary St.
San Jose, CA 95110
Microbrush Corporation (Mark Phillips, VP) 813-572-8444
4505 131st Avenue North #8 813-573-1028 (FAX)
Clearwater, FL 34622
(bendable applicators/brushes for reaching those hard-to-reach
places)
Rick S. Fortenberry, Owner (508) 385-4019
Cape Cod Scale Watercraft mailto:Wha...@aol.com
Construction & Restoration of Fine Watercraft Models
1335 Route 134 -POB 1459
http://www.mywebpage.com/mwps1/cntrys1/usa/ma/eastden/5686.htm
East Dennis MA 02641-1459
("Construction & Restoration of Fine Watercraft Models")
Graham K. Salt + 44-329-239561
6 Flamingo Court
Fareham, Hampshire PO16 8PQ England
(Research Historian - Maritime/Military Commissions Accepted)
Stitkewicz Chemical Milling 518-622-8311
HCR 1
Box 61B
Cairo, NY 12413
(Small jobs, Production Jobs, Prototypes)
Treasure Beach Co. (Kathryn St. Amant) 310-473-1137
P.O. Box 10263 310-473-1197 FAX
Marina Del Rey, CA 90292 mailto:capt...@AOL.com
2412 Federal Avenue
Los Angelesm CA 90064
(Kathy (the owner), creates bronze, brass, silver (even gold)
castings of cannons, figureheads (she has a really neat lion)
stern, gallery, and porthole carvings, not to mention "little
people".)
United States Naval Institute 800-233-USNI
Customer Service 410-224-2406 (FAX)
Operations Center
2062 Generals Highway
Annapolis MD 21401
(best selection of naval books, discounts for members)
101-F. SHIP MODEL and MARITIME DEALERS, APPRAISERS, BUILDERS, CONSERVERS
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The Admiralty Model Gallery 409-766-1777
Harbor House #28, Pier 21
Galveston, TX 77550
(Models, gifts, restorations)
All Hands On Deck 212-748-8668
Model Shipbuilding- Restorations & Repair
at The Maritime Crafts Center
South Street Seaport Museum
New York, NY 10038
Atten: Gregory J. Williams
(Build from scratch or kit scale model ships. All Hands On
Deck also builds ships-in-bottles, scale musical instruments,
and dioramas. Also repair or restore damaged models.)
Altec Plasstics, Inv. 617-269-1400
116 B Street 617-269-8484 (FAX)
Boston, MA 02127
(Acrylic displays and custom model cases)
ALNAVCO 804-442-2323
Box 9
Belle have, VA 23306
(1:1200 w1 metal warships)
American Marine Model Gallery 508-745-5777
R. Michael Wall, Director 508-745-5778 (FAX)
12-IN Derby Square mailto:wall...@aol.com
Salem, MA 01970
(Since 1975: Offering an extensive selection of fully
documented, investment grade, one of a kind ship models, by
the world's finest marine model artists. Each model is
constructed to museum quality standards. Restorations,
Appraisals, Display cases, Lighting and Custom built models.
Fully Illustrated Catalog $10.00 US, $15.00 overseas)
Ancient Mariner, Inc.
238 15th Street #13
Atlanta, GA 30309
(Antiques)
Andrew Jacobson Marine Antiques 508-468-6276
P.O. Box 2155
South Hamilton, MA 01982
("Americana . Ship Models . Out-of-print Books . Paintings .
Catalogs at Whim . Vintage Photos")
Antiques of the Sea (by appt.) 310-592-1752
16811 Pacific Coast Hwy
Sunset Beach, CA 90742-0023
Arrangements, Inc., Marine Division 914-238-1300
P.O. Box 126
Mt. Kisco, NY 10549
(Models)
Bill Thomte T/A, St Michaels 410-745-3080
P.O. Box 299
St. Michaels, MD 21663
(Nautical antiques)
David Air (by appt.) 212-925-7867
8 Beach Street
New York, NY 10013
(Model & marine art & artifacts)
Dockyard Ship Model Gallery 315-824-2462
P. O. Box 303
Hamilton, NY 13346
(Museum quality investment grade ship models)
John Johnson's Steel Navy Models 512-839-2134
2310 Lambros
Midland, MI 48642
("Contract models of 20th century ships costom built for the
discriminating collector. Specializing in USN Warships.
For an illustrated brochure send $2.00")
International Marine 800-822-8158
Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17294-0840
(books, videos, etc.) free catalog
Lannan Ship Models 617-451-3650
58 Thayer St.
Boston, MA 02118
("Ship Models Wanted")
The Military Bookman 212-348-1280
29 East 93rd Street
New York, NY 10128
Mystic Maritime Gallery 203-572-8524
Mystic Seaport Museum Stores, Inc.
Mystic, CT 06355
Rob Napier 508-462-6970
62 Marlboro Street
Newburyport, MA 01950-3130
(full- & half-hull ship models; model conservation and consultation)
North Star Gallery 212-794-4277
1120 Lexington Ave at 78th St.
New York, NY 10021
(Models)
Oliphant & Co. 212-439-0007
790 Madison Ave
New York, NY 10021
(Marine arts)
John Pignatelli 310-548-7618
Artist in Residence
L. A. Maritime Museum
Berth 84
San Pedro, CA 90731
(Hand custom crafted ship models built, restored, molds made)
Port & Starboard 207-781-4214
67 Johnson Road
Falmouth, ME 04105
(Antiques & art)
Preston 516-477-1990
Main Street Warf
Greenport, LI, NY 11944
(Dealer, nautical items)
Safe Harbor (Frank A. Wolz) 602-998-8982
5722 E. Corrine Dr.
Scottsdale, AZ 85254
(Model display cases)
Sara Conklin, ISA 415-467-6249
239 Sierra Pt. Rd.
Brisbane, CA 94005-1664
(Ship model appraiser)
Seacraft Classics 800-356-1987
7850 E. Evans Road, Suite 109
Scottsdale, AZ 85260
(Models -- free catalog)
Seafarer Ltd. 609-652-9491
Rt 9, Lily Lake
Oceanville, NJ 08231
(Free brochure, $3.00 for list)
Showcase Model Company
P.O. Box 470
State College, PA 16804-0470
Shuttleworth
P.O.Box 231
West Covina, CA 91792
(Maritime ephemera, models art & antiques)
Tall Ships (Fred E. Tournier) 303-922-9882
Master Model Shipwright
1435 S. Fenton
Lakewood, CO 80226
(Custom-built models, appraisals, repairs)
West Sea Co. 619-296-5356
2495 Congress Street
San Diago, CA 92110
(Nautical antiques and art -- free catalog)
Frank Wilhite 909-865-1238
Ship Model Commissions, restoration & Repairs
(no address)
(Frank has also been doing quite a lot more model repairs
-- lots of people are using him as a source & reference...)
Vallejo 714-642-7945
1610 West Coast Hwy
Newport Beach, CA 92663
(Art & antiques)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part16
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, January 3 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 16) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###################################################
104. What's available on the internet?
A. LOTS!
What's available depends on what "access methods" you have
available.
NOTE: I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
regular basis. Thus, I may not know if they "disappear". If
you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
please send me Email at: mailto:ko...@aimnet.com ; I'll check
it out and delete the reference if it's really gone. Thanks.
NOTE: See part 01 for the interpretation of these addresses.
LIST SERVERS
############
These are available via Email; they're essentially newsgroups for Email:
Seaways Publishing, Inc., publishers of "Seaways' Ships in Scale"
magazine, is pleased to sponsor this shipmodeling and nautical research
list, "seaways-shipmodeling-list", in hopes of bringing together the
talents and resources of shipmodelers and researchers of vessels of all
eras and types.
They intend to discuss materials and sources, construction hints and
tools and anything else of interest to list members, as long as it
relates collecting information on ships and boats and to building
models of them. They'll talk about static models and R/C, wood and
plastic, sail and power, surface and below. It should be both useful
and fun!
On the research side of things they will be developing a multi-specialty
forum, bringing together the talents and resources of nautical and
maritime historians, shipmodelers, nautical archaeologists, marine
artists, archivists, museum specialists, full-size replica designers
and builders and all others interested in the design, construction and
operation of ships and boats. Again, all eras and types will be
discussed.
To subscribe (or unsubscribe), send an e-mail message to:
mailto:seaways-shipmode...@lists.best.com
...In the body of the message, state:
subsingle(or unsubscribe); for a digest instead of individual
messages state "subscribe".
...To post a message to the list iteself, send the message to
mailto:seaways-ship...@lists.best.com .
This list is now archived at: *NEW*
http://www.seaways.com/listarc/index.html .
They also have the "The Information Seaways' Real-time Conference Room",
at:
http://www.seaways.com/confctr.html /
Questions or suggestions about the list can be sent to Clayton Feldman
at:
mailto:clay...@best.com
The Cyberspace Model Yacht Club, A Model Boating Forum, courtesy of Dave
Mainwaring.
The focus is on Operational Models powered by Sail, Steam or Electric
power. Marine Modelers, Scale and Semi-scale Model Boat Builders, Radio
Control Yachting (sail) enthusiasts and others interested in model
boating activities are encouraged to take part in the forum.
This is a forum for the recreational modelship builder to discuss model
building, model regattas, and club activities.
TO SUBSCRIBE: send the following email (mailto:majo...@cybercom.net):
TO: majo...@cybercom.net
subject:
text:
subscribe model-boating {your-email-address}
There is an nautical archaeology list called SUB-ARCH. To subscribe to
SUB-ARCH:
mailto:LIST...@ASUVM.INRE.ASU.EDU
with no subject and the following text:
SUBSCRIBE SUB-ARCH {your name here}
MARHST-L is an INTERNATIONAL electronic discussion group sponsored by
the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston with the assistance of
Queen's University at Kingston. Subscription is free, and subscribers
will automatically receive messages in their computer mailboxes:
mailto:LIST...@QUCDN.QUEENSU.CA
with no subject and the following text:
SUBSCRIBE MARHST-L (your name)
TALLSHIP (Sailing and Operation of Traditional Sailing Vessels):
mailto:LISTSERV%VCCSCEN...@VTBIT.CC.VT.EDU
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
subscribe tallship {your name}
...only.
SHIPS (current maritime activity):
mailto:ships-...@access.digex.net
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
Subscribe Ships {your name}
...only.
SEAROOM-L (discussions of the books of Patrick O'Brian):
mailto: LIST...@NETCOM.COM
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
Subscribe SEAROOM-L
...only.
YACHT-L (sail racing):
mailto:LIST...@HEARN.BITNET
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
SUBSCRIBE YACHT-L {your name}
....only.
MARITIME NETWORK is a biweekly newsletter focusing on communication,
networking,and database news within the maritime community.
Submissions and articles are welcomed. To subscribeo:
mailto:MARITIME NET...@DIAMONDLT.COM
---I don't know if this is the same as the next item...
OTHER
There is a COMMERCIAL service called Diamond Light Ocean Services, an on-line
marine information provider. If you're interested, contact:
mailto:admini...@diamondlt.com
-- Fee is $12.50 per month, with one hour free access/(24-hour)day.
Advanced Access
===============
USENET NEWS GROUPS
##################
Note: These may not all be carried on all servers!
Check out:
news:rec.models.scale (english, general topics)
news:rec.models.rc (english; RC models)
news:rec.models.rc.water (english; RC models)
news:de.rec.modelle (German)
news:t-netz.modelbau (German)
news:zer.t-znet,modelbahn (German)
news:fj.rec.models (Japanese)
Useful stuff can also be found in:
news:alt.binaries.models.scale (posting of pictures of models) *NEW*
news:rec.woodworking
news:rec.boats
news:rec.boats.building
news:rec.boats.paddle
news:rec.boats.racing
news:rec.crafts.metalworking
news:rec.jewelery
news:sci.archaeology
FAQs
####
Many of these groups have FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions) available:
FAQ's can also be accessed via the WWW. The main WWW FAQ archive
site is at:
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/FAQ-List.html
FTP access
##########
THIS FAQ can be found at:
ftp://ftp.uu.net/usenet/news.answers/ship-models-faq (.ZIP files)
-or at-:
ftp://mirrors.aol.com/pub/rtfm/usenet/rec.models.scale
-or at-:
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.models.scale (.ZIP files)
The rec.woodworking FAQ's can be found in the directory
ftp://ftp.cs.rochester.edu/pub/archives/rec.woodworking/ .
GOPHER access
#############
"Canoe/Kayak" at:
gopher://ftp.std.com/11/nonprofits/canoe.kayak/ .
"US Naval Fighting Ships" at:
gopher://wiretap.spies.com/11/Gov/US-History/Naval .
"Pictures of United States Navy Ships", The navy has a web site that
has a large (>160) collection of images on line. Earliest are
paintings or drawings, but there are photos from surprisingly early.
All ships are pre-WWII. Index at:
gopher://gopher.nara.gov/00/inform/dc/audvis/still/navy.txt
Images at:
gopher://gopher.nara.gov/11/inform/dc/audvis/still/navy .
The Polynesian Voyaging Society has a site at: *NEW*
gopher://nic2/hawaii.net/11/PVS
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part17
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, January 3 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 17) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###################################################
105. What's available on the WWW?
A. LOTS!
This section is for WWW (Browser access using Lynx, Mosiac,
Netscape, etc.).
NOTE: See part 01 for the interpretation of these addresses.
NOTE: I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
regular basis. Thus, I may not know if they "disappear". If
you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
please send me Email at: mailto:ko...@aimnet.com ; I'll check it
out and delete the reference if it's really gone. Thanks.
This part of the FAQ has sections labeled:
General
FAQs On-line
Lists of Links to Other Sites
Model Boating & Clubs
Ship Model Dealers and Suppliers
Books and Book Shops
Pointers to sites of maritime interest
General
=======
"Maritime History": a GREAT!!! (and one of the first!) WWW location,
maintained by Lars Bruzelius:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/Nautica.html .
"The Information Seaway" (Clay Feldman's Seaways' Ships in Scale page)
is at:
http://www.seaways.com .
This site includes the seaways-shipmodeling-list List-server's archive,
at: *NEW*
http://www.seaways.com/listarc/index.html .
Information on the Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/NRG_New.html .
Information on the "Nautical Research Guild" (brochure, etc.), has been
placed on:
http://www.icubed.net/usr/dbrown .
"Building the Model Yacht Turmoil" (A superb set of photographs of
the construction of a model by a professional) can be found at:
http://www.midcoast.com/~eddy/models/walkthru/workshop1.html .
"Gary Kemper's Ship Model Links", at:
http://users.deltanet.com/users/gkemper/ship.html .
"From Keel to Truck - De la quille a la pomme du mat - Vom Kiel zum
Flaggenknopf - De Quilla a Perilla - Dalla Chiglia al pomo dell'Arbero" =
-- an excerpt of captain Paasch's famous dictionary of maritime terms.
At:
http://www.refer.fr/termisti/data/vergues/index.htm .
"The World of the Vikings" This is an excellent guide to Vikings
resources on the Internet; also selling a CD-ROM on the Subject:
http://www.demon.co.uk/past/vikings .
"Viking Navy" home page (thoughts on Viking ships), at:
http://www.digalog.com/viking/ .
"Leo's Classic Tug Boat", at: *NEW*
http://www.pi.net/~vonkl/tugboat.html .
"MC-Link Nautical Home Page", at:
http://www.mclink.it/n/nautica/indice.htm (Italian Version).
"Merchant Marine and Maritime" (with some nice animations, if your
browser can handle them), at: *NEW*
http://www.pacifier,com/~rboggs/ .
"Minesweeper" (the game), at:
http://www.linc.or.jp/~hamano/game/minesweeper.html
"Modelers To Modelers", a new and friendly place for modelers
to exchange modeling informations on the Web. Check it out at:
http://140.118.103.11/mtm/wwwboard.htm .
"Berkeley Digitak Library SunSite" permits you to search a large list
of on-line libraries:
http://sunsite.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/searchsite .
Thomas Register. Yes! it's online and you can search it too! The URL is:
http://www.thomasregister.com/ .
The Story of the Titanic, a recapture of the basic facts about the
ship and the catastrophy. At:
http://www.ida.his.se/ida/~a94hango/titanic.chtml .
"RMS Titanic 83 Years Later". The Virginia Newspaper Project examines
the news; covering the sinking of RMS Titanic, April 14, 1912; at:
http://www.lib.virginia.edu/cataloging/vnp/titpref.html .
"rec.models.scale WWW Page", at:
http://www.chrer.net/dfk/ .
There's a page on Photo Etching at:
http://phoenix.bath.ac.uk/~justinw/two_mm/etch/etch.html .
"Trireme Olympics", at:
http://www.eng.ox.ac.uk/~cascrd/trireme.html .
"Welcome to Tugboat.COM", at:
http://www.tugboats.com .
"R/C Submarines", at:
http://home.aol.com/dmeriman .
"Ships In Bottles Home Page" (From Artem Popov in Russia);
mailto:ipar...@redline.ru :
http://194.85.117.36/R_CLUB/H_PARK/SHIP/ship_e.htm .
"Scale Models Colour Matching", at:
http://msowww.anu.edu.au/~dfk/tech/colour.html .
"wargames WebPage"; includes some pictures of ship models, at:
http://grognard.com .
FAQs On-line
============
THIS FAQ can be found at:
http://www.seaways.com/faq/faqind.html .
"Frequently-Asked Questions About Ship Model Restoration", at:
http://www.capecod.net/shipmodel/faq.html .
"Metalcasting and MetalSmithing for the Hobby Foundry and Small Business"
Information on Bronze casting can be found at:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster .
"Metal Web News" (Metal-working stuff, including that FAQ), at:
http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/index.html .
The rec.crafts.metalworking FAQ can be found at:
http://www.paranoia.com:80/~filipg/HTML/LINK/Metal_idx.html
.. and is archived at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/~metal/index.html .
The rec.models.scale FAQs are available at:
http://www.dtm-corp.com/~sven/models/rms_tips/rmsfaq.1.html .
"R/C Warship Combat FAQ", at:
http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/HTML/RC/F_Ship_Kombat.html .
Allmost all FAQ's can be accessed via the WWW. The main WWW FAQ
archive site is at:
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/FAQ-List.html
Lists of Links to Other Sites
=============================
Lars Bruzelius also has additional resources at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/ ,
...one of which is a set of pointers to other maritime sites at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/www/Nautica/Pointers.html .)
"Call me Fishmeal", at:
http://www.well.com/www/pk/fishmeal.html .
"48^ North - The Northern Sailing Magazine", at:
http://www.gosailing.com/
"A Guide to Maritime History Information on the Internet", at:
http://ils.unc.edu/maritime/home.html .
"Guide to Museums and Cultural Resources on the Web"; (Natural History
Museum of Los Angeles County); links to (general) museums, at:
http://www.lam.mus.ca.us/webmuseums .
Index to underwater archaeology resources on the Internet, with some
very useful information about Scuba diving and other underwater
archaeology. Its URL is:
http://fiat.gslis.utexas.edu/~trabourn/underwater.html
Larry Barker's "Boating", at:
http://www.teleport.com/~lgbarker/boating.html .
"Mark Rosenstein's Sailing Page", at:
http://community.bellcore.com/mbr/sailing-page.html .
"Museum Information"; at Oxford, UK; links to (general) museums, at:
http://www.comlab.ox.ac.uk/archive/other/museums/info.html .
"The Starting Point for Sailing on the Internet"; mostly pointers to
other well known sites. at:
http://gpu.srv.ualberta.ca/~sjones/index.html .
"Tall Sailing Ships", a collection of pointers to individual ships, at:
http://www.novagate.com/~schoonerman/tall.htm .
"TOP 10 WEB RESOURCES for rec.models.scale"; pointers to other sites.
at:
http://www.phoaks.com/phoaks/rec/models/scale/ .
"Battleship USS TEXAS(BB35)", at:
http://wb5fnd.tech.uh.edu/~scott/bb35.html.
Model Boating & Clubs
=====================
"Art's Home Page" (includes RC boats), at:
http://www.biddeford.com/~agertlof/ .
"Bay Area Electric Boaters" (Tampa Bay, FL), at:
http://members.gnn.com/tinybeetle/baeb.htm .
"CY Online" (Canadian Yachting magazine), is proud to announce its
partnership with the CANADIAN RADIO YACHTING ASSOCIATION, at:
http://www.canyacht.com/canyacht .
"The Cyberspace Model Yacht Club", at:
http://www.cybercom.net/~mainwaring/modelboating.html .
"R/C Electric Mono & Hydro Racing" page from Germany:
http://user.aol.com/matthiasbo/index.html .
"Friends of the Schooner Model Society", at:
http://www.netcharts.com/schooner/ .
"St. Michaels Model Boat Club", at:
http://www.pittelli.com/st.michaels/ .
"Gig Harbor Model Yacht Club", at:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Kelly_Martin .
Ruben King has a web page at:
http://www.compdata.com/~reuben/ .
"Maryland Attack Group" (mainly R/C combat with some scale
and some sail) see National IR/CWCC site at:
http://www.netcharts.com/warship/ .
"Model Boats", at:
http://www.bendigo.net.au/~jstein/mboat.html .
"Miniature Ship Models", 1:2400 and 1:3000 scale waterline
ships, at:
http://www.cabm.rutgers.edu/~hooper/miniatures/bill/navmod24.html .
"The Mesa Model Yacht Club" (Mesa AZ) intends to offer helpful
information about building and sailing model yachts, at:
http://www.ionet.net/~mmyc ; mailto:mm...@juno.com .
"Photos of cardstock model warships", at:
www.halisp.net/community/pub/navmin .
"PMCG's Vicious Model Boat Page", at:
http://www.tiac.net/users/pmcg/boat.html .
"The Home of the Big Gun R/C Warship Combat", at:
http://www.pacificnet.net/~rkehr/big-gun1.htm .
RC-Boat site at:
http://www.in.net/rc-boat/
"R/C Boating", at:
http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~jpreusse/rc-boat_html .
"RC-Sailing Infocenter" (RC Sailboats, from Finland), at:
http://honeybee.helsinki.fi/surcp/rcsail.htm .
"Shipmodeling Page"; Paolo Pizzi includes an extensive 80-page
review of all plastic and resin kits on the market. At:
http://home.earthlink.net/~timeelapsed/ .
"South Bay Model Shipwrights", at:
http://home.earthlink.net/gswiercz1/webdocs/sbms.html .
"South Okanagan Battle Group", R?C naval combat in Canada; at:
http://alpha.ftcnet.com/~wayneg/SOBG/index.html .
"Task Force 72"; A group of RC ship modellers in Australia, who build
scale warships at a constant 1/72 scale have set up a page of info at:
http://www.healey.com.au/~mkear/tf72.html .
Tor Ole has a website (about billings boats), at:
http://home.sn.no/~tranden/index.htm .
"U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group". at:
http://www.swcp.com/usvmyg
"WEST VALLEY R/C MARINERS", at: *NEW*
http://www.primenet.com/~kndbrd/ .
"Wet 1", The UK's Model Yachting Web Site; at:
http://ourworld.Compuserve.com/Homepages/Rob_Vice/ .
Chuck Zender has a very nice model boating home page, dealing
mostly with powered scale model modern warships and boats. At:
http://www.cyberhighway.net~czee/ .
Ship Model Dealers and Suppliers
================================
"Bayou Boats Scale Models", Owned and Operated by Nick Rosselli,
Kenner, LA 70065 (504-443-2268); at:
http://www.gna.com/customers/bayoub/bayoub.htm .
"By-The-Sea" - the site contains the following sections:
Boat Builder's Shop, Cruising The Maine Coast, Columbia Trading
Company, Builders & Boat Yard, Marinas & Service, Education &
Instruction, On The Water, Spin.Sheet, Event Calendar & Links, Boats
For Sale, Boating Bookstore, New Boat Dealers, Boater's Exchange,
Messing About In Boats, Associations & Clubs, Build It Yourself,
Supplies & Accessories, and Boat Motion. At:
http://www.by-the-sea.com .
"Cape Cod Scale Watercraft", at:
http://www.capecod.net/shipmodel/ . mailto:wha...@aol.com
"East Coast Model Center", at:
http://bud.peinet.pe.ca/ECMC/cat_bk.htm .
"Floating Drydock" has a page at: (mailto:dry...@postoffice.ptd.net)
http://www.usbusiness.com/drydock/ .
"FX Models"; operational and static miniatures for movies/productions
and sale of submarine kits for display/operation. At:
http://www.thenerve2.com/fxmodels .
Here are three links to hardwood and "exotic" wood suppliers;
you might try them:
www.hardwoodint.com ,
www.metrolink.net/quality/qwsmain.htm ,
www.commerce.com/badger/pricelist.html .
"Hobby World" in Montreal has a web page at:
http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/ ; in particular, Tool section:
http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/maintool.html ; Ship fittings:
http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/mainship.html .
contact at: mailto:hobb...@odyssee.net .
"King RC Online Hobby Shop", at:
http://www.twinds.com/kingrc/kingrc.htm .
Metal Buyers Mart is your source for small quantity metal
(for catalog, mailto:MBM...@aol.com), at:
http://www.execpc.com/~metal .
"METZLOFF MODEL YACHTS", Fine Yacht Models and Trophies; at:
http://www.torresen.com/kyle.htm .
"Model Dockyard Catalog Index", at:
http://www.netlink.co.uk/users/dockyard/toc.html .
"Nature Coast Hobby Shop" mail order historic wood ship models, at:
http://naturecoast.com/hobby . Catalog at:
http://naturecoast.com/hobby/catalog.htm .
"Nautica On Line" (Nautica is the first Italian yachting magazine
(over 30 years old) and Nautica On Line is the *first* italian yachting
magazine - perhaps the first in Europe - going on the Web.) At:
http://www.mclink.it/nautica/indexeng.htm .
"Pacific Front Hobbies Web page", at:
APPARENTLY TEMPORARILY OFF-LINE! .
"Plans of the Schooner Evelina M. Goulart, with Notes", by Erik A.R.
Ronnberg, Jr., at: *NEW*
http://k12.oit.umass.edu/masag/3208r.html .
Reality Software (mailto:ben...@pipeline.com) has samples of a
Screen Saver; "Tall Ships Classic Sailboats", at:
http://www.realmyth.com/tallshps.html .
"Seaworthy Small Ships" produces a line of unique, inexpensive, and
educational wooden pond model boat kits. They are a company in
southern Maryland (western shore) which produces "model" ships which
are childrens pond boats. The hulls are mainly solid construction
with add on details, masts and rigging. The are meant to be
"representations" of boats rather than true models. At:
http://www.azinet.com/seaw.html .
"Ship models and Nautical salvage" at:
http://www.seajunk.com/nautical .
One of the best known makers of plastic kits is now on the web.
They do produce some ship models in plastic. Their website also
announces new kits and reissues.
http://www.revell-monogram.com .
..They are now owned by Binney-Smith (the crayola people) there is a
link to:
http://www.crayola.com where you can learn the history and
manufacturing process for crayolas.
"Squadron Mail Oorder's Home Page"; this is a supplier of plastic kits
(aviation, armor, and modern warship) they also publish books and
sell other modeling supplies. They import a lot of kits from eastern
europe. At:
http://www.squadron.com
"Seaworthy Small Ships" makes a line of wooden model boat kits
which are designed to be easily constructed and then mounted on a
provided stand or sailed on your local pond. The line includes
sailboats of mostly historic designs such as the Chesapeake bay
Skipjack and "power" boats which have rubber band motors. The models
are between 8 and 16 inches (20 to 40 cm) in length.
They also sell full size plans and patterns for three sailboat models
which are ideal for class projects and youth groups. The 16" "Fiji"
trimaran is designed to be made from styro-foam insulation board. One
sheet of material makes 50 models. At:
http://azinet.com/seacat.html , or send e-mail to:
mailto:seaw...@azinet.com
and they will send you an e-mail
version of the catalog.
You will find the Traplet Publications site (publishers of Marine
Modelling) at:
http://www.traplet.co.uk/traplet/
...and specifically 'Marine Modeling' is at:
http://www.traplet.co.uk/traplet/MMM.html .
"Welcome to East Coast Model Center" (primarily RC models), at:
http://www.peinet.pe.ca/ECMC/ . A list of all model boat kits is at:
http://www.peinet.pe.ca/ECMC/cat_bk.htm .
"The Woodworking Catalog", at:
http://www.woodworking.com/ .
Books and Book Shops
====================
"Amazon Bookstore" -- The main page indicates that they have over
1,000,000 books. It is easy to search. At:
http://www.amazon.com/ .
"The Patrick O'Brian Page", at:
http://www.princeton.edu/~joes/surprise.html .
"Databoat", boat plans and marine related books. At:
http://www.databoat.com .
"Nautical Stuff" (and related files),
"Great Encouragement to Boatwrights",
"Design and Construction of Centerboards and Rudders", and
"Mail-Order Sources for Nautical Books" can all be accessed via:
http://www.cyber-dyne.org/~jkohnen/nautical.html .
"Naval Institute Press", at:
http://www.usni.org .
"Powells Books"; they have a large selection of new and used
books. You can search the store in various subjet areas. At:
http://www.powells.portland.or.us/ .
"Stone & Stone Second World War Books"; includes lists of new books,
lists of books in the site owners' personal inventory, lists of book
publishers, a sell-your-books service, numerous links to other book-
related sites, and a free world-wide book search. At:
http://www.sonic.net/%7Ebstone/books.html ,
or mailto:bst...@sonic.net .
"Warsash Nautical Bookshop" (in England), at:
http://www.aladdin.co.uk/wnbooks/ .
Pointers to sites of maritime interest
======================================
"The Cunard Archives" (University of Liverpool), at:
http://www.liv.ac.uk/~archives/cunard/chome.htm .
Harland and Wolff, the builders of the Titanic/Olympic/Britannic
trio, have a web site at:
http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/hwtech.serv , and an internet
address of: mailto:hwtec...@dial.pipex.com .
"The Knotting Dictionary of Kannet", at:
http://www.netg.se/~jan/old_knot.htm .
"The Miramar" life on board the motor vessel Miramar sailing in the
Pudget Sound. at:
http://www.seanet.com/Users/deanl/miramar.html .
"The Pirate Page" at:
http://www2.ecst.csuchico.edu/~beej/pirates/piratepage.html .
"Peabody Essex Museum", at:
http://www.pem.org/
...includes: "Marine Paintings & Drawings". A marvellous collection of
80 marine paintings from the collections of the Essex Peabody Museum,
Salem, MA, USA. These pictures are well-known to anyone who have
studied the beautiful catalogues of the collection by the Brewingtons
and P.C.F. Smith. At:
http://www.pem.org/maritm3.htm
"The Marine Art Information Center" is a picture gallery of
marine watercolours and paintings supplemented by information on
auctions,galleries, reference materials and museums focusing on
maritime art. Also included are WWW entry points for marine art,
photographs and sounds. At:
http://www.marineart.com .
"The Nautical Mind" Marine Booksellers and Chart Agents, at:
http://www.nauticalmind.com/ .
CONTINUED IN PART 18
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part18
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, January 3 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 18) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###################################################
105. What's available on the WWW?
A. LOTS!
This section is for WWW (BROWSER access using Lynx, Mosiac,
Netscape, etc.).
NOTE: See part 01 for the interpretation of these addresses.
NOTE: I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
regular basis. Thus, I may not know if they "disappear". If
you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
please send me Email at: mailto:ko...@aimnet.com ; I'll check it
out and delete the reference if it's really gone. Thanks.
CONTINUED FROM PART 17
This part of the FAQ has sections labeled:
Miscellaneous
Sailing Ships
"Steam" ships
Maritime Museums and Research Projects (including Nautical Archaeology)
Research Ships
Government / Military
Miscellaneous
=============
"The Antique and Classic Boat Society", Pacific North West Chapter
(of USA). At:
http://www.halcyon.com/pford/acbsx.htm .
"MS Estonia disaster", at:
http://www.viabalt.ee/News/sos/ .
"Interactive Marine Observations". A visual interface to the lastest
worldwide marine weather information being reported by automated
weather stations. At:
http://thunder.met.fsu.edu/~nws/buoy/ .
"International Council for the Exploration of the Sea", at:
http://www.ices.dk/ .
"International maritime signal flags", at:
http://155.187.10.12/flags/signal-flags.html ,
and their meaning, at:
http://155.187.10.12/flags/signal-meaning.html .
"The Semaphore Flag Signalling System.", at:
http://155.187.10.12/flags/semaphore.html .
"British Waterways Official Website", at:
http://www.rscom.com/boat/ .
"Lighthouse Getaway". This travelog of US east and west-coast
lighthouses now includes over 40 lights, plus other info for the
lighthouse fanatic. At:
http://zuma.lib.utk.edu/lights/ .
"Aquanaut" (scuba diving), at:
http://www.aquanaut.com .
"Det Norske Veritas", a maritime classification society established
1864, at:
http://www.dnv.no/Welcome.html .
"The Poseidon Project", at:
http://velox.stanford.edu/hellas/poseidon.html .
"Welcome to Salem, Massachusetts", at:
http://www.star.net/salem/default.htm .
"The Scale Models Forum", at:
http://www.startext.net/interact/models.htm
"Ron Ginger's Home Page" A Model Boat builder. Also information on the
"Traditional Small Craft Association", "TSCA of Peabody Museum" and
"North America Model Engineer Show". At:
http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger/
"Wooden Boat" magazine has a web site, at:
http://www.woodenboat.com .
Sailing Ships
=============
"Age of Sail Page" at:
http://www.cs.yale.edu/HTML/YALE/CS/HyPlans/loosemore-sandra/sail.html .
"Angelo Mascaro Sailing Page" at the following url:
http://www.inrete.it/vela/vela.html (Italian)
English readers might prefer the following:
http://www.inrete.it/vela/sail.html
"Armada de la Libertecute" sail training ships at Rouen, France,
celebrating the 50th anniversary of the D-Day." (17 July, 1994) at:
http://www.cnam.fr/Images/Armada/ .
"BREST 96" The international meeting of ships and sailors,
13 to 20 July 1996. at:
http://www.enst-bretagne.fr:3000/anglais/Home_page_gb.html .
"Battleship Cove", (Fall River, Mass.; USS Kennedy (DD-850),
HMS Bounty ('62) ), at:
http://www.ici.net/cust_pages/jack/mamie.html .
"Bluenose II Preservation Trust", at:
http://fox.nstn.ca:80/~bluenos2/ .
"The Continental Sloop Providence Unofficial Home Page", at:
http://shakti.trincoll.edu:80/~jconstan/providence.html .
"A History of Ships Named Enterprise", at:
http://www.ee.umanitoba.ca/~djc/startrek/SNE.html .
"The Marco Polo reconstruction project" at:
http://www.cygnus.nb.ca/epcom/marcopolo/project.html .
"The Niagara Homepage", at:
http://www.ncinter.net/~niagra/battle.html .
"Sail Training Association (STA)" (Southampton and Salisbury, England)
at:
http://www.soton.ac.uk/~sta1/ .
"Salem Builds a Tallship". A re-construction of the Friendship built
in Salem 1797. At:
http://www.star.net/salem/theship.htm .
"Pandora" (the one associated with the HMS Bounty) is at:
http://wavefront.wavefront.com/~pjlareau/pandora.html .
"The Maritime Hertitage Alliance The Sailing Schooner Madeline".
The Madeline is a reconstruction of a mid 19th century fore and aft
schooner built by the non-profit organisation the Maritime Heritage
Alliance, Traverse City, MI, in 1990. At:
http://ns1.win.net/~torresen/madeline.htm .
"Sailing with the Pride of Baltimore II", at:
http://www.4impact.com/pride/ .
"The SS Cherokee Belle", a place for Steamboat Buffs and Mark Twain
fans to share stories and information, at:
http://www.acy.digex.net/~capnmark/home.html .
"Steam" Ships
=============
"SS John W Brown" (East Coast Liberty Ship), at:
http://www.mma.mass.edu/academic/faculty/jmcgourt/pls/pls.html .
On the west coast, "JEREMIAH O'BRIEN" can be found at:
http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/maritime/jeremiah.html ,
..."Jeremiah O'Brien" can be found at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/www/nautica/Ships/JOBrien.html ,
...and "SS JEREMIAL O'BRIEN NATIONAL LIBERTY SHIP MEMORIAL" is at:
http://www.crl.com/~wefald/obrien.html .
"The Steamships of Stockholm", at:
http://sics.se/~jussi/steamer.html .
"William A. Irvin", was a great lakes steamer that carried iron *NEW*
ore, stone, grain, etc. There is a very good kit available and it is
pictured at:
http://computerpro.com/~pierre/ .
Maritime Museums and Research Projects (including Nautical Archaeology)
=======================================================================
"The Channel Islands Marine Archaeology Resources (CMAR)", along with
their newsletter, Wreckscatter. at:
http://weber.u.washington.edu/~nailgun/cmar .
"Combined Caesarea Expeditions Underwater Excavations", at:
http://www.carleton.ca/~ereinhar/CaesareaHome.html .
"Diana Nemorensis" (The web page for the project to reconstruct the
Roman ship that was brought out of the waters of lake Nemi near Rome
in 1930), at:
http://www.virtual-pc.com/orontes/index.html .
"Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic", Lunenburg, NS, Canada. At:
http://www.ednet.ns.ca./educ/museum/fma.html .
The FSU Underwater Archaeology program; at:
http://www.dos.state.fl.us/sos/divisions/historical_resources/hist.html .
"Historical Diving Society"; at: (mailto:HDS...@AOL.COM)
http://diveweb.com/hds/hds.htm .
"Kelsey Museum Educational and Outreach Programs" (University of
Michigan; Archaeology), at:
http://classics.lsa.umich.edu/Kelsey/Outreach.html .
"La Salle Shipwreck Project WWW site" (the wreck of the French explorer
La Salle's ship Belle) at:
http://www.thc.state.tx.us/belle/index.htm .
"The Life-Saving Museum Scrapbook", at:
http://www.infi.net/~cwt/life-sav.html .
"L'archaeologie sous les mers, techniques et recherches" une exposition
de la Mission de la recherche et de la Maison des sciences de l'homme au
Muse; archeologique de Nice-Cimiez du 27 mai au 4 septembre 1994 ey ai
siege central du CNRS du 14 novembre au 7 decembre 1994. (The french
ministry of culture is pleased to announce a virtual exhibition on the
Web dedicated to sub-marine archeology.) At:
http://www.culture.fr/culture/archeosm/archeosm.htm .
"Mariner's Museum" (Newport News, VA), at:
http://www.infi.net/mariner .
"Maritime Museum of the Atlantic", Halifax, NS, Canada. At:
http://www.ednet.ns.ca./educ/museum/mma.html
"The Maritime Museum of Portugal", at:
http://www.madinfo.pt/museumar/welcomei.htm .
"Mystic Seaport", at:
http://www.mystic.org/ .
"National Maritime Museum" (Greenwich, England), at:
http://ihr.sas.ac.uk/ihr/maritime/maritime.mnu.html .
"North Carolina Maritime Museum", at:
http://www.agr.state.nc.us/maritime/index.htm .
Northern Maritime Research has (mailto:ad...@ccn.cs.dal.ca)
the "Northern Shipwreck Database" (50,000+ record wreck database), at:
http://www.ccn.cs.dal.ca/~ad514/Profile.html .
SeaLore is the Internet homeport for the "Mary Rose Virtual Maritime
Museum", Portsmouth, England the tallship "HMS" Rose, a working example
of a 18th c. British navy frigate. HMS Rose was recently featured in
a two page spread in the July 3rd issue of Forbes magazine. It's at:
http://www.synergy.net/homeport.html , and at:
http://www.compulink.co.uk/~yama/news95.htm , and a site dedicated
to educational visits at:
http://www.compulink.co.uk/~mary-rose/ ;
mailto:mary...@cix.compulink.co.uk .
"Nautical Archaeology Program at Texas A&M University and the
Institute of Nautical Archaeology", at: mailto:naut...@tamu.edu
http://nautarch.tamu.edu . Also publishes "INA Quarterly".
"The American Tallship "HMS" Rose" The Rose's history, construction,
rigging and history, as well as a photo gallery, at:
http://shakti.trincoll.edu/~jconstan/hmsrose/home.html .
"Set Sail on the Delaware" an Exhibition at the Franklin Institute
Science Museum. At:
http://sln.fi.edu/tfi/exhibits/ships.html.
"Hart Nautical Collection" at MIT, Cambridge, MA, USA. At:
http://web.mit.edu/museum/www/collections/hart.html .
"Guide to Historic Ship Wrecks" in Great Britain. Descriptions of 41
wreck sites designated under the Protection of Wrecks Act of 1973. At:
http://www.cru.uea.ac.uk/ukdiving/misc/deswreck.htm .
"Great Lakes Maritime History", at:
http://www.acs.oakland.edu/~ncschult/boatnerd.html .
"Great Lakes Visual/Research, Inc." (GLV/R), a consulting firm in
maritime history and archaeology currently located in Lansing,
Michigan, has opened its web site for visitation, review, and comment.
The GLV/R web page features images from the underwater archaeological
excavation of the Great Lakes scow schooner ROCKAWAY at South Haven,
Michigan. At:
http://www.sojourn.com/~azhran/web/index.html .
"Maine Maritime Museum". at:
http://www.bathmaine.com/ .
Michael Dun at the Scottish Institute of Maritime Studies has links to
lists of maritime museums and other information, data on Maritime Fife
in Scotland, and examples of Letters of Marque.
http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_sa/personal/md4/index.html .
"National Maritime Historical Society", at: *NEW*
http://www.marineart.com/nhms/ .
"Nordic underwater archaeology:, at:
http://www.abc.se:80/~m10354/uwa/ .
"The Steamer William G. Mather Museum" (Cleveland, Ohio). An excellent
presentation of this museum. Includes links to other Great Lakes sites.
At:
http://little.nhlink.net/wgm/wgmhome.html .
The Pan-American Institute for Marine Archaeology is at:
http://www.wbm.ca/users/nfisher/ .
"Underwater Shipwreck State Parks and Historic Sites", at:
http://www.indiana.edu:80/~scuba/project.html
"Statens Sjohistoriska Musett", Stockholm. The National Maritime Museum
of Sweden. At:
http://www.telemuseum.se/museer/SSHM/Home.HTML .
"Three Facets of Maritime Archaeology: Society, Landscape and Critique"
by Anthony Firth, University of Southampton. At:
http://avebury.arch.soton.ac.uk/Research/Firth/ .
"The "Wasa" Museum", Stockholm. At:
http://www.sunet.se/stockholm/museums/vasa/vasa.html .
"The Floating Dock Bermuda - Underwater Archaeology Project", at:
http://www.brown.edu/Research/Underwater_Archaeology/bfd/ .
"Velkommen til Nationalmuseet", The National Museum of Denmark, at:
http://WWW.NATMUS.MIN.DK/ .
...You can select the "Newsletter from Roskilde" (the Museum
Newsletter from Denmark) by selecting the link "Publikationer pe
nettet". You can also select "English Version".
There is a picture of what may be a removable Norman boat head from
the marsh at the Norman Invasion site at Hastings. At:
http://www.cablenet.net/pages/book/corresp/heads2.htm .
Research Ships
==============
"World Ocean Circulation Experiment (WOCE) Cruise A23" at:
http://www.mth.uea.ac.uk/ocean/a23/welcome.html
The Marine Tech group of Oregon State University College of Oceanographic and
Atmospheric Sciences has brought up a new Mosaic Home Page for their ship R/V
WECOMA. It is available at:
http://www.oce.orst.edu/Wecoma/WecomaHome.html .
"Research Ship Information and Cruise Schedules" at:
http://diu.cms.udel.edu/ships/ship_menu.html .
"The Alfred Wegener Institute" for Polar and Marine Research. At:
http://www.awi-bremerhaven.de .
- also, a picture of R/V Polarstern at:
http://www.awi-bremerhaven.de/Pics/Polarstern.jpeg .
Government / Military
=====================
"Allied Command Atlantic" at:
http://www.saclant.nato.int .
"American Merchant Marine Academy: has a web site at:
http://www.usmma.edu .
"U.S. Coast Guard", at:
http://www.dot.gov/dotinfo/uscg/ .
"Combat Boat 90H", a Swedish assault boat for amphibious landings. At:
http://www.nada.kth.se/~d94-pek/sboat.html .
"Imperial Japanese Navy" web page at:
http://www.skypoint.com/members/jbp/kaigun.htm .
"MIL-HIST" (Military History), at:
http://www.olcommerce.com/cadre/milhist/index.html .
"National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS)", at:
http://kingfish.ssp.nmfs.gov/ .
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Adminstration (NOAA), at:
http://www.noaa.gov ; and:
"Fleet Replacement and Modernization" at:
http://www.noaa.gov/fleet.html . This "Fleet Replacement and
Modernization" reference is out of date and should be deleted shortly.
A much better reference and title would be "Ships of the NOAA Fleet" at:
http://www.noaa.gov/nchome/fleet.html ,
or "the NOAA office that manages the Fleet", at:
http://www.noaa.gov/nchome .
A new site is "The MONITOR National Marine Sanctuary", at:
http://www.nos.noaa.gov/ocrm/nmsp/nmsmonitor.html , or, directly
on their home page at:
http://www.cnu.edu/~monitor .
"Naval Historical Center"; contains a LOT of info about where to get
info on ships and naval history from the American Revolution to present,
FAQs, Publication Information, other websites, and commercial resources
for Naval Research; at:
http://www.history.navy.mil .
"NAVSEA Home Page", at: *NEW*
http://www.navsea.navy.mil .
"Hydromechanics Directorate", Carderock Division. Formerly the David
Taylor Model Basin. At:
http://www50.dt.navy.mil .
"Navy Pages" maintained by Andrew Toppan; (mailto:el...@wpi.edu)
(includes weekly photo feature on various topics) at:
http://www.wpi.edu/~elmer/navy/ .
"Welcome to NavyOnLine" at:
http://www.ncts.navy.mil . Also at:
http://www.navy.mil .
"The Naval Postgraduate School", Monterey, CA, at:
http://www.nps.navy.mil .
"Real Time Support for the Warrior", from The Advanced Information
Technology Branch of the Naval Research Laboratory at:
http://www.ait.nrl.navy.mil/rts/warrior.html .
"State of the Russian Navy", at:
http://webcom.com/~amraam/rnav.html .
"Ron Martini's Navy Submarine Base" at:
http://wave.sheridan.wy.us/~rontini/ronpage.html .
"NAVAL SEA CADETS' WWW site", at:
http://www.tucson.com/nscc
"Royal Navy Careers main index", at:
http://www.open.gov.uk/navy/rnhm.htm .
"United States Naval Academy" at Annapolis, MD, is on-line at:
http://www.nadn.navy.mil/
(check out the Preble Museum at:
http://www.nadn.navy.mil/Museum ,
and the Henry Huddleston Rogers ship model collection, at:
http://www.nadn.navy.mil/Museum/gallery.html ).
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part15
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, January 3 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 15) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
103. What are some good books... ?
A: What you will consider a "good book" depends GREATLY upon the
period and style of modeling you do -- a book on plastic
submarines will prove of little use if you are researching
ships of ancient Egypt.
Instead, the following list(s) are by general topic. Prices,
where shown, indicate the book is currently in print. these
are the LIST price; such books are frequently available for
much less in "remainder" book sales or as used books.
RECOMMENDED BOOKS
-----------------
"The Neophite Shipmodeller's Jackstay", George F. Campbell; Softbound,
62 pages
Probably the best basic introduction to wooden shipmodeling.
"Ship Modeler's Shop Notes", Nautical Research Guild; Softbound, 216
pages, ($19.95)
Practical book for all ship modelers; a compilation of shipmodeling
articles from the Nautical Research Journal.
SHIPMODELING TECHNIQUES
-----------------------
"The Ship Model Builder's Assistant", Charles G. Davis; Softbound, 288
pages ($6.95)
Detailed descriptions and drawings of masts, rigging, and major
fittings of American clippers and packets.
"the Built-Up Ship Model", Charles G. Davis; Softbound, 256 pages
($6.95)
A detailed guide to building a ship model, in this case the brig
Lexington (American, 1775).
"Plank-onFrame Models", Harold A Underhill, Brown, Son, and Ferguson,
1960.
Two volume set detailing the building and rigging of the Brigintine
Leon.
"Modeling the the Brig Irene", E. W. Petrejus, N. V. Uitgeversmasschappi
"Ed Esch", Holland, 1970.
"Boat Modeling the Easy Way A Scratch Builder's Guide", Harold H.
"Dynamite" Payson; Paperback, 195 pages, illustrations, photographs,
8 1/2 x 11 ($19.95) ISBN 0-87742-320-2
"Boat Modeling with Dynamite Payson - A Step-by-step Guide to Building
Models of Small Craft", Harold H. "Dynamite" Payson; Paperback, 182
pages, 280 illustrations, 8 1/2 x 11, ($19.95)
"Ship Modeling from Scratch - Tips and Techniques for Building Without
Kits", Edwin B. Leaf, Paperback, 184 pages, drawings, 7 3/8 x 9 1/8
($17.95) ISBN 0-87742-389-X
"Building Plank-on-Frame Ship Models", Ron McCarthy; 8vo, 192 pages,
illustrated, Conway Maritime Press, London, 1994 ($34.95)
"Shipbuilding in Miniature", by Donald McNarry, New York, Arco 1983
ISBN 0-668-05800-5
"Ships in Miniature", by Lloyd McCaffery, Cedarsburg, Phoenix
Publications 1988 ISBN 0-9615021-3-4
"Building Warship Models", P. C. Coker, 313 pages, illustrated, R. L.
Briant Company, Columbia, South Carolina, 1974; ISBN 0-914432-01-X.
PERIOD SHIP RESEARCH
--------------------
"Navy Board Ship Models, 1650-1750", John Franklin; Hardbound, 192
pages, 150 photos, 16 color plates($36.95)
Survey of dockyard models, their construction and function.
"Shipcarver's Handbook", Jay S. Hanna, Hardcover, 108 pages, 7 1/8 x
10 (17.95) ISBN 0-937822-14-0
Design and lettering, set-up and carving techniques, woods, tool
sharpening, finishing and gold leafing (full-size modern practice).
"Ashley Book of Knots", Clifford W. Ashley, Hardcover, 610 pages, 8 3/4
x 11 1/4 ($50.00) ISBN 0-385-04025-4
Standard reference work on knots, splicing, etc.
RIGGING ETC.
"The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritesail Topmast, 1600-1720",
R. C. Anderson, Conway Maritime Press, England, 1984.
"The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815", Brian Lavery,
Conway Maritime Press, England, 1987.
Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860", James Lees,
Conway Maritime Press, England, 1984.
"The Construction and Fitting of the English Man-of-War 1650-1850",
Peter Goodwin, Conway Maritime Press, England, 1987.
Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier", Harold A.
Underhill, Brown, Son, and Ferguson, Scotland, 1946.
"The Americal FIshing Scooners 1825-1935", Howard I. Chapelle, W. W.
Norton & Company, New York, 1973.
Covers all aspects of the "Glochester" fishing schooners and their
fittings.
SPECIFIC SHIP AND SHIP-TYPE RESEARCH
------------------------------------
"Old Ironsides - The Rise, Decline and Resurrection of the USS
Constitution", Thomas C. Gillmer, Hardcover, 239 pages, photographs,
7 1/2 x 9 1/2 ($24.95) ISBN 0-87742-346-6
"Die Kieler Hansekogge, der Nachbau eines historischen Segelschiffes
von 1380", Baykowski, U., RKE-Verlag, Kiel 1991
"The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships", C. Nepean Longridge, Model & Allied
Publications, England, 1955.
Primarily concerned with building a model of H.M.S. Victory, but
lots of useful information on Napoleonic War practices.
"Conway's History of the Ship, The Age of the Galley", originally
published by Brassey's (UK) ltd. 1995. Published in the US/Canada by
the Naval Institue Press, 1995. ISBN 1-55750-024-X.
There are some good articles, with enough reconstructed detail to
use as a basis for modeling bronze age-sixteenth century galleys
(mostly warships).
The Anatomy of the Ship series of books. Each volume covers a specific
vessel (list $32.95 each)
The Aircraft Carrier Intrepid
The Aircraft Carrier Victorious
The Type VII U-Boat
The Type XXI U-Boat
The Destroyer Campbeltown
The Cruiser Belfast
The Destroyer Escort England
The 74-Gun Ship Bellona
The Submarine Alliance
The Battleship Warspite
The Battleship Yamato
The Destroyer The Sullivans
The Cruiser Bartolomeo Colleoni
The Frigate Diana
The 20-Gun ship Blandford
The Susan Constant, 1607
The Armed Transport Bounty
The Royal Yacht Caroline
The Bomb Vessel Granado, 1742
Good reference for old surviving ships:
"International Register of Historic Ships", Norman J. Brouwer, Naval
Institute Press (Orig. Anthony Nelson, Ltd., 1985); ISBN 0-87021-306-7
This is a fascinating read for those of us who like this stuff.
All the vessels we've talked about here are described, as well as
semiintact clipper ships in Argentina and an 1868 monitor, guns in
place, used as a graffiti-covered breakwater in Melbourne.
(Phil Gustafson)
The following reviews are from John Berg:
The 20-Gun Ship Blandford by Peter Goodwin. Naval Institute Press,
Annapolis, 1988. Hardback, 119 pages, 9.5 inches high by 10.5. $36.95.
Drawings, plans, model photos. ISBN 0-87021-058-0.
Provides superb graphics. The Blandford, while not quite the
size of the HMS Surprise, a 5th rate like the Surprise and
gives the detailed drawings of the ship's hull, deck
arrangement, and rigging. Invaluable to modelers, too.
The Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 by Peter Goodwin. Naval Institute Press,
Annapolis, 1989. Hardback, 125 pages, 9.5 inches high by 10.5. $36.95.
Many drawings, plans, model photos. ISBN 0-87021-178-1.
Useful to both the scratch-build modeler and the reader of
Forester who wants to know more about the bomb vessel.
Provides insights about Jack Aubrey's first command, the Sophie,
since the Granado is also a 14 gun, brig-sloop with a
quarterdeck and stern windows. [See also page 6, col. c.]
Captain Cook's Endeavour by Karl Heinz Marquardt, Anatomy of the Ship
Series, 138 pages, hardback, 224 illustrations, $36.95.
The Endeavour, made eternally famous by Captain Cook's first
voyage on her in 1768-71, was chosen by Cook because of her
strong construction. The author describes her build and rig
based on information found in the Endeavour's journals, a mine
of previously unused, primary-source information.
The Armed Transport Bounty by John Mckay, USNI, 1989, 120 pages, many
photos, drawings, plans, and detailed sketches, $36.95.
A member of the Anatomy of the Ship series with the usual
superb graphics. Thanks to a reproduction built in Australia,
the book has many photos as well. Patrick O'Brian uses the
Anatomy of the Ship books and models to visualize action
about ships.
The Schooner Bertha L. Downs by Basil Greenhill and Sam Manning, 1995,
hardback, 128 pages, 250 Illustrations. 9.5 by 10.25 inches. The
Anatomy of the Ship Series, Naval Institute Press, ISBN 1-55750-790-2,
$36.95.
The North American schooner Bertha L. Downs was one of the many
large four-, five-, and six-masted schooners built on the banks
of the Kennebeck River at the end of the nineteenth and the
beginning of the twentieth centuries. These huge wooden
vessels were almost universally employed in the coastal trade,
chiefly taking coal from Virginia to New England. Contains
superb drawings and much new material about the life of the
vessel.
Bertha L. Downs was launched in 1908 and after ten years in
the lumber and coal trade was sold to Danish owners, renamed
the Atlas, and like a number of her contemporaries made a
profitable living through the 1920s and 30s. She was finally
broken up in 1950 in Germany having spent forty-two years
working under five flags.
Close cousins to the Anatomy of a Ship series is the Conway Ship Types
series. Excellent large graphics and superb research
The Bomb Vessel, Shore Bombardment Ships of the Age of Sail by Chris
Ware, 1995, hardback, 128 pages, 100 illustrations, 10.75 by 10.75
inches. Conway Ship Type Series, $38.95.
In the Horatio Hornblower stories, the bomb vessel represented
a specialization of the warship into a floating siege engine
carrying huge shell-firing mortars for the purpose of
bombarding stationary targets.
The Heavy Frigate, Eighteen-pounder Frigates: Volume 1, 1778- 1800 by
Robert Gardiner, 1995, hardback, 128 pages, 80 illustrations, 10.75 by
10.75 inches. Conway Ship Type Series, $38.95.
The first of two volumes specifically devoted to the large
single-decked cruising ships armed with 18-pounder guns. First
introduce during the American Revolution, the frigates grew
rapidly in size, number, importance and becoming the typical
frigate of the Nelson era that we read about Patrick O'Brian's
Aubrey Maturin series.
[Not in the format of the Anatomy series but a superb reference on the
Victory and written specifically for the modeler of HMS Victory: large
foldout drawings.]
ANATOMY OF NELSON'S SHIPS by C. Nepean Longridge, 1956, hardback, 283
pages, 7.5 by 9.75 inches. Naval Institute Press, ISBN 0-87021-077-7,
$39.95.
A truly splendid reference. By creating this book for the
serious model builder of the HMS Victory, Longridge packed an
immense amount of detail about Nelsonian ships in general and
the Victory in particular. A Patrick O'Brian fan will "see"
more clearly the action described after reviewing the hundreds
of illustrations, the scores of clear photographs, and the
detailed plans, many which foldout to the size of 4 and 6 pages
in area, in this book. What is a truck, why catharpings,
where's the kevel, how the channels are supported, what's the
location of the spirketting, and the purpose of the limber
passage.
One photograph shows the wardroom as a bright, attractive room
with officer cabins on either side. Another photograph of the
ship's entry port reminded me of the entry way into aircraft
carriers which have gangways leading into the side rather than
to the weather deck. It made clearer the image of the many at
anchor receptions described by O'Brian and Forester. One
incongruous photograph shows WWII damage suffered by the
Victory from a German aircraft bomb. For the modeler,
everything is included in this one book, hull, standing
rigging, running rigging, modeling tips, and construction of
special tools and jigs. The immense index contains over 1200
entries.
The following is from Clayton A. Feldman, MD:
A Personal Research Library:
============================
Anglo-American Sailing Vessels of the Eighteenth Century (With
Commentary)
The problem confronting beginning and intermediate ship modelers is
quite straight forward: For both, the major pitfall is error
compounding error. Increasing awareness of this negative process tends
to be followed by frustration, wheel-spinning attempts at ongoing
correction and finally exasperation and dropping-out. The problem often
results from the limited availability of readily accessible guidance.
This in turn leads to poor choice of subjects for modeling and rather
random, undirected library building. Without at least a purpose-built
library (and better yet, some form of mentoring in addition), failure
to understand the limits of one's personal knowledge rapidly puts the
modeler into the unfortunate state described above, precluding accurate
and effective work. What then can be done to prevent such talent-wasting
scenarios from developing?
If one could control the entry point into ship modeling for the
beginner, the job would be relatively easy. One would select a simple,
quality kit -- a sloop or schooner from a quality manufacturer and one
book, probably George Campbell's "A Neophyte Ship Modeler's Jackstay", as
the starting package.
This would permit the beginner to get the look and feel of the hobby
with a bit of guidance and see if it appealed to him. If it did, he
would then be encouraged to purchase a bit more advanced kit, together
with a small library consisting of (in this author's opinion) one book
and two articles. The book is the Merritt Edson- edited "Ship Modeler's
Shop Notes"; in it are excellent chapters on research and ship
selection for modeling as well as innumerable articles on construction,
tools and processes.
The two recommended articles are Charles O. McDonald's "Books as a
Key to Modeling Success" (Nautical Research Journal, Vol.31, No.1, pp
17-36) and Peter Sorlien's article "Before the Chips Fly, A Few
Thoughts to Guide the New Ship Modeler" (Scale Woodcraft, No.6, 1986,
pp 23-29). The first article is a master book collector's personal
guide to library building for ship modeling and nautical research. It
philosophically suggests that the library builder is well-served by
sticking to one general era and not many different types of vessels and
by rather ruthlessly limiting his library to that era and type. The
second article is a general introduction and guide to the selection of
kits, the understanding of the basic research process and the general
philosophy of proper ship modeling.
This second ship modeling project and its associated library expansion
would start the process of converting the hobbyist into a sort of
scholar craftsman. From here on, or perhaps after a couple of more kit
models, it would be all library building and scratch modeling or
serious kit bashing, with the personal library being the primary source
for the basic research.
It should be noted that the library suggestions above and those to
follow form a basic library only for mid-late eighteenth century small
and medium-sized Anglo-American vessels, the author's personal area of
interest. Other times and places require different libraries and a bit
of research before beginning book purchases. One must also realize that
much of the information for these smaller vessels is interpreted and
derived from the primary source material for larger vessels, thereby
expanding the library somewhat beyond that which seems 'ruthlessly'
related to the small vessels themselves. In any event, here we go:
First: The Ruthless TWO BOOK Library:
1. Chapelle, Howard I., The Search for Speed Under Sail,
W.W. Norton Co.Inc., New York, 1983.
2. Petrejus, E.W., Building the Brig-of-War Irene. "De Esch",
Holland, 1970.
Outrageous, you say? Not at all. At least half of all the interesting
smaller American vessels of the era are found well-drawn and described
in this particular Chapelle work. They are interesting because they
were fast and therefore were used in interesting applications, mostly
as privateers and smugglers. Although Chapelle's text is almost totally
undocumented, for which he has come under revisionist historian attack
recently, he is extremely detailed, generally authoritative, a
marvelous draftsman and a most adequate source of information gathering-
type basic research. Serious research, however, can never end with
Chapelle.
The Petrejus book is practically a single volume encyclopedia. It
contains historical research, magnificent engravings and prints,
contemporary (always remember, in academic historical parlance,
contemporary means at the time of the historical period under study,
not modern times (eg, then, not now) construction techniques, rigging
and fitting data, spar tables and very detailed modeling techniques all
in one. Applied specifically to the modeling of a Dutch revision of an
early nineteenth century English brig, it applies quite generally to
our era and type and is a very good source for further library research.
And Then: The Compleat (almost) Two Foot Library:
A fairly complete plans source, historical database, and modern and
contemporary practices reference library can be had by the addition of
another fifteen books to those previously described. Carefully placed
notes about the house prior to birthdays and holidays can greatly
assist in the speed of acquisition. The books are:
1. Steel, David, Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging
(1794), Sweetman Reprint, Largo, Fla.,1983.
2. Lever, D'arcy, The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor. (1819),
Sweetman Reprint, New York, 1963.
3. Steel, David, The Elements and Practice of Naval
Architecture, 1805. Sim Comfort Reprint, London, 1977.
4. Chapman, F.H., Architectura Navalis Mercatoria, 1768,
Sweetman Reprint, New York, 1967.
5. Gill, Claude S. (editor), The Old Wooden Walls: Their
Construction, Equipment, etc. Being an abridged edition of
FALCONER'S Celebrated Marine Dictionary. W&G Foyle, Ltd.,
London, 1930.
6. Millar, John F., Early American Ships. Thirteen Colonies=20
Press, Williamsburg, Va., 1986.
7. Chapelle, Howard I., The History of the American Sailing=20
Navy, W.W. Norton Co.Inc., New York, 1949.
8. Chapelle, Howard I., The History of American Sailing Ships,
W.W. Norton Co.Inc., New York, 1935.
9. MacGregor, David R., Fast Sailing Ships, Naval Institute=20
Press, Annapolis, 1988.
10. MacGregor, David R., Merchant Sailing Ships, 1775-1815,=20
Argus Books, Ltd., Watford, Herts, England, 1980.
11. Lees, James, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of=20
War, 1625-1860, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, 1984.
12. Goodwin, Peter, The English Man of War, 1650-1850, Naval=20
Institute Press, Annapolis, 1987.
13. Lavery, Brian, The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of=20
War, 1600-1815, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, 1987.
14. Harland, John and Meyers, Mark, Seamanship in the Age of=20
Sail, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, 1985.
15. Howard, Dr.Frank, Sailing Ships of War, 1400-1860, Mayflower
Books, New York, 1979.
Most of these books are still in print or in re-print editions. The
Gill Falconer, or one of the other Falconer reprints, will have to be
sought out in a nautical used book store. Lacking rich and generous
relatives, one may have to find a library for accessing Steel's Naval
Architecture.
With these volumes added to our historical research and plans sources,
we complete the basic documentation of American naval and private
vessels. The two additional books from Chapelle contain extensive
historical and naval architectural data and scores of the best drafts
of American vessels ever drawn. The Chapman book is the single most
valuable collection of contemporary plans, unfortunately few of which
could be considered American. They are, however, essentially generic
types, divided by nautical design and use, by (European) nation of
origin and by size. Chapman also has very nice sail plan drawings.
A very enjoyable American vessels scrapbook, the Millar book has
over two hundred copied and/or reconstructed drawings of colonial and
Revolutionary era American vessels available for perusal, together with
brief historical summaries of the lives of the vessels. It is often a
good place to begin one's search for a choice of modeling projects. The
two MacGregor contributions are the scholarly delineation of the
English side of our era's smaller vessels as the Chapelle works are for
the American side. To these books must be added the basic primary
contemporary sources on rigging and spar-making (Steel and Lever), the
general mini-encyclopedia of eighteenth century naval architecture
(Falconer), and the not-to-be-done-without (but very expensive) Steel's
Naval Architecture, the only primary source available for actual
dimensions and scantlings (the size of the smaller timbers) for the
smaller vessels. This latter listing is actually a pair of books, the
reference book itself and a magnificent over-size folio of large scale
engravings of interesting ships of the era.
The modern standard compendium of masting and rigging is Lee's book,
that for construction is Goodwin's and for fittings, Lavery. The
Harland-Meyers book provides a great many otherwise missing details by
both describing and sketching a great many processes showing how the
ship and its equipment were actually used. Frank Howard provides a
general overview of the era in a very good book ("Sailing Ships of
War"), which misses being a great book only by lacking an index.
New books for the research library are appearing at a rapid rate, and
the would-be library builder must often decide within a fairly short
span of time whether or not to buy, as single edition production runs
are common. In the past few years alone, we have seen Brian Lavery's
two books on the ships of the line, a whole slew of Conway Publishing
volumes in the Anatomy of the Ship series, the magnificent Jean
Boudriot series on a wide variety of French vessels of this era,
Franklin's book on Navy Board models, and a modest number of reprints
of eighteenth and early nineteenth century reference books -- Steel,
Falconer, Sutherland, Fincham and others, if you want names to look
for. Most of these books are available from the book shops andj mail
order hobby suppliers who advertise in "Seaways' Ships in Scale".
Although these suggestions are mainly for a reference library, one
would be remiss in not mentioning at least a few books that deal
largely with model construction techniques. Of course much valuable
construction information is available in the Edson and Petrejus volumes
mentioned above. "Ship Modeler's Shop Notes" is useful for models of
all types, with information on built-up lift models as well as plank-on-
frame. It also is crammed with time-proven techniques for block and
spar making, casting metal fittings, making rope, painting, coppering
and just about everything else the modeler needs to know. Modeling the
Brig of War Irene is similarly useful and broad-based. The hull
technique described is the lift method of solid hull building, but the
fitting, finishing, spar making, etc. techniques are universal in
application and the details are especially useful for smaller-than-ship-
of-the-line vessels.
For plank-on-frame modelers there are two additional recommendations,
the old favorite "The Built-Up Ship Model" by Charles Davis and the
very well received fairly recent work of Harold Hahn, The Colonial
Schooner. The former is fifty years old, written in a charming style,
and full of very useful construction and research data hints the size
of gunports, the height of sills, the weight of anchors, etc. It is
also full of anachronisms and is itself based on an error of
identification, Davis having substituted an English brig of the turn of
the century for the American Revolutionary War converted merchant brig
"Lexington". The hull construction techniques are universal and very
easy to understand and the drawings are wonderful.
Hahn's work has turned his slightly simplified style of P-O-F building,
admittedly a model maker's convention rather than an exact reproduction
of contemporary practice, into the middle-of-the-road standard. Widely
used by modeler's, this technique, using several jigs for building the
frames and a unique fixture for holding the frames upside down in place
during construction, provides for excellent continuity of form and
alignment of frames as the hull is built.
I picked up a new paperback (magazine size) book last week called:
"The Painters Guide to World War Two Naval Camouflage",
by Patrick Hreachmack. It is published by Clash of Arms Publishers, so
as you might guess it is for 1/2400, 1/1200, up to 1/700 ships. While
not a substitute for the Floating Drydock books, it covers, the US,
British and Commonwealth, German, Italian, Japanese, Dutch, Polish,
and Russian Navies. It gives a description of the colors with matches
to Floquil, Humbrol,and MM paint lines. Notes on deck colors, aircraft
colors, and other tidbits are covered. As an example, Japanese ships
colors depended on the shipyard where they were built or repaired.
There are of course a lot of side views of camouflage schemes. On the
down side, since it is written for war gamers it covers lots of schemes
for ships not produced in plastic (3 pages of Tribal class destryers)
and omits popular plastic ships (Rodney, P of W,....). It also notes
FAA a/c as gray on top, which in that scale I guess XDSG and Slate gray
would look like ...gray. OTOH, the last 4 pages contain an extensive
list of references. At, $18.95 it isn't cheap, but it a good starter
book. (Bob Sigman)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part12
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, January 3 1997 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 12) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
101. Where can I find... ?
101-A. RECOMMENDED BEGINNER KITS
=========================
Bluejacket: Eastport Pinky, Bluenose
Model Shipways: Phantom, Katy, Sultana
A. J. Fisher: Pilot Scooner, Lark
Model Expo: Gjoa, Swift, Scottish Maid, pinky
NOTE: This list is provided by the Nautical Research Guild.
This list is provided as a service to model builders, and the
listing of the businesses does not infer an endorsement of the
products or service by the Nautical Research Guild. Specific
references can be obtained by applying directly to the business.
Note: Catalog prices, where shown, are as listed; many companies will
send updates free once you've bought something, and may send
the first one free if you ask. Some companies will also include
a voucher in the purchased catalog that will apply the catalog
price to the first purchase.
101-B: KITS, FITTINGS, ETC.
--------------------
ABCD Industries 410-717-4111
1320 Light Street
Baltimore, MD 21230
(all sorts of rivets. You call & explain what you need. They
will ship to you.)
A. J. Fisher 810-541-0352
1002 Etowah Ave.
Royal Oaks, Michigan 48067
(Solid-hull kits, brass ship & yacht fittings, prints, books)
Catalog - $3.00
Air Land and Sea 703-684-5118
1215 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
(Out of production kits)
APC Hobbies (Charlie Pace) 804-973-2705
PO Box 122 http://www.esinet.net/apc/apc.htm
Earlysville VA 22936 mailto:A...@ESINET.NET
(General models, 3-4 week service, 25% discount, ~monthly
updates)
Arror Graphics 416-692-4921
R.R. #1
York, Ontario N0A 1R0
canada
(Canadian flags, markings)
Amherst Minatures (W. J. Marshall) 313-485-2855
1220 S. Congress
Ypsilanti, MI 48197
(scale model warships & more)
Catalog - $2.00
Atlas Model Railroad Co., Inc. 908-687-8857
378 Florence Ave.
Hilside, NJ 07205
(Free, Fantastic Layout Booklet. For free copies,
send #10 S.A.S.E. (52 cents). )
Catalog - Free(1994)
BaD Ship Models 607-638-9266
P.O. Box 214
Westford, NY 13488
(NEW ADDRESS!!! 1:96 plank on frame kits; Brochure: $2.00)
Billing Boats A/S
Gejsing
6600 Vejen
Denmark
(makers of kits which allow one to make a model with marvelous
and true lines. Some of their fittings are not that good,
however. Their kits are carried by many US dealers and hobby
shops.
I know Billing as makers of kits which allow one to make a
model with marvelous and true lines. Some of their fittings
are below my standards, however.)
Bluejacket Shipcrafters 800-448-5567
P. O. Box 425-N 207-548-9970
Stockton Springs, Maine 04981-0425 207-548-9974 FAX
(solid hull & POF kits, brass & britannia fittings, plans,
wood, books, custom casting available)
Catalog - $2.00
Blue Water Navy 803-767-4209
P.O.Box 8421, Festival Center mailto:mbish...@aol.com
Charlston, SC 29418
(resin, white metal & etched brass kits - don't know scales;
latest is ~8.5 inch Russian Alfa Class Submarine: $35.00)
Bureau of Small Warships
P.O. Box 288102
San Diego, CA 92128-0993
(They make all the US WW2 destroyer classes. These are 1/700
scale resin kits of outstanding quality. These kits are $26.00
each plus $2.50 shipping)
Classic Warships
Box 57591
Tucson, AZ 85732
(1:700 Warships USS California, West Virginia, Detroit, Alaska.
Italian Battleships Cavour, Littorio, Zara Cruiser. New, ship
model rulers. $3 catalog. [from Todd Hoogerland])
Cleanline Hulls 403-243-6924
1736 - 49 st 403-246-0582 FAX
Calgary, Alberta Canada T2T 2T9
(Large ship kits for RC)
C H Enterprises 805-684-3673 (Eve. & weekends)
P. O. Box 31146
Santa Barbara, CA 93130-1146
(Kits, books, tools & supplies - "Tattered Ensign")
Catalog - $3.00 (refundable); SASE for current specials
Coast Guard Models 708-437-4687
110 Essex Road
Elk Grove Village, IL 60007
(Hulls & semi-kits)
Cole's Power Models (Betty Cole)
839 E. Front St.
P. O. Box 788
Ventura, CA 93002
(Marine and other steam engines, castings, supplies)
Commander Models
551 Wegman Rd
Rochester, NY 14624
(Resin models, including BJ GAMBIER BAY)
Copeland Models
16 Dover Rd.
Hampton, VA 23666-2333
(R/C submarine kits)
Cottage Industry Models
1632-B Ashley River Rd.
Charleston, S.C. 29407
(1:32 multimedia model of the Civil War submarine, the Hunley.
This is a very nice kit; resin kit with about 30 pieces and a
1 piece hull. They intend to make all the Ironclads that were
in Charleston, starting with the Confederates.)
Darnel Models +44 (0)923 673107
33 High Street
Watford
Herts
WD3 7AE
England
(Type VII german submarine)
Deans marine +44 (0)1733 244166
Conquest Drove
Farcet Fen
Peterborough, PE7 3DH
England
(Their adv. states that a catalogue is UKP 4.50 incl p&p.)
Diamond Enterprises & Book Publishers
Division of Yesteryear Toys and Books, Inc.
Box 537
Bailey Settlement Rd
Alexandria, N.Y. 13607
(Steam engines)
Flightpath (David J. Parkins) 44-1348-831-534
Trefacwn Fach
Llanrhian, St. David's
Dyfed, SA62-6DP
Wales
Tel/Fax: 0348-831534
(Flower Class Corvette 1/72 scale detail set. Cost as of late
'92 was 39.90 GBP (Sterling) & 5.64 P&P overseas)
There are also a set of resin replacements available for the corvette
from another British firm....
Sirmar 44(1)384 263252
PO Box 127
Stourbridge, West Midlands
DY8 5XY
D&E Minatures 804-468-4687
835 Holly Hedge Avenue
Virginia Beach, VA 23452
(1:96 resin subs, including SKIPJACK; Water-tight Cylinders)
Dragon Model & Pattern 206-465-2427
231 Hull Road
Grays River, WA 98621
(1:200 resin subs -- list $1.00)
The Dromedary (Lois Roth) 915-584-2445
Ship Modeler's Center
6324 Belton Drive
El Paso, Texas 79912
(Very complete supply of kits, fittings, plans, books, lumber,
etc.) Catalog - $6.00
Dumas 602-623-3742
909 E. 17th Street
Tucson, AZ 85719
(Manufacturer of static and R/C wood & fiberglass kits)
Dynamic Models
Drawer C
Port Jefferson Station, NY 11776
(Manufacturer of kits & fittings)
Engineered Specialties
PO Box 156
Seeley Lake, MT 59868
(Submarines; 1/96 scale SSN-637, 1/72 Alfa, coming 1/48 German
Type XXI. Catalog $ 2)
Glencoe Models, Inc. 508-869-6877
P.O. Box 864
Northboro, MA 01532
(Plastic 20th century models)
GLEN-L Marine Designs 213-774-2585
9152 Rosecrans, Ca. 90706
(This company sells books, plans, videos, kits and just about
anything you want in the lines of boats. Catalog of boat
designs is ~$4.00.)
Great Planes Model Dist. Co. 217-398-3630
P.O. Box 9021
Champaign, IL 61826-9021
(R/C kit distributer)
GULFSTREAM kits are distributed by:
Marco Polo Imports
City of Industry, CA.
(Resin Kits, including 'USS Ward'. GULFSTREAM (Mike Ashey) can
be contacted directly at 2070 Wildridge Drive, Tallahassee, FL
32303.)
Hamilton Hobby Specialists (Susan Bousfield) 905-549-1226
236 Kenilworth Ave, N.
Hamilton, Ontario L8H 4S5
Canada
(This store serves southern Ontario. They have been around for
40+ years and carry a good range of boat kits (wooden and
plastics), fittings (Billing and others), tools, and books. )
Harbor Models 714-435-0716
17457 Appalachian Street
Fountain Valley CA 92708
(The Cheddar Models line of preassembled steam engines, as well
as a large variety of hulls and full kits sutiable for steam.)
Hartman Fiberglass R/C 217-795-2275
P.O. Box 86
Argenta, IL 62501
(Manufacturer of kits)
Hobby House's Quarterdeck
5622 Hwy 153
Chattanooga, TN 37343
(Distributer of US & foreign kits -- Catalog - $2.50)
Hobby Lobby
5614 Franklin Pike Circle
Brentwood, TN 37027
(Mail order hobby shop)
Hobby World of Montreal (Sam Benshir) 514-481-5434
514-481-5468 FAX
mailto:in...@hobbyworld-inc.com
http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/
(Wooden ships, Dollhouses, Plastic models, Custom showcases,
Tools, Books, etc. In particular:
Tool section: http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/maintool.html ;
Model Cases: http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/showcase.html ;
Ship fittings: http://www.hobbyworld-inc.com/mainship.html .)
Howard Enterprises 310-547-3464
Frank's Mosquito Boat Hobbies (Frank DiMeglio)
866 W. 19th Street
San Pedro, CA 90731
(1:20 Higgens & Elco PT kits; boat upgrades & customizing)
International Marine Exchange 215-357-2163
215 Philmont Avenue
Feasterville, PA 19047
(Kits)
JAC Models 603-778-7280
2800A Lafayette Rd. #199
Porthsmouth, NH 03801
(Balsa wood models, Coast Guard boats and cutters, Victory ship
and tugboat -- Catalog: $1.00)
Laughing Whale (Inc. Midwest Boats) == NOW PART OF BLUEJACKET!
Lindberg
328 N. Westwood Ave
Toledo, OH 43607
(Plastic kit manufacturer -- 32 page catalog)
Lone Star Models (Mike & Laurie West) mailto:lsmo...@ix.netcom.com
P. O. Box 770954
13758 Drakewood
Sugarland TX 77478
(Civil War ironclads, 1/192 cast resin with brass and white
metal parts; catalog is $2.00.)
Maritime Models Greenwich 081-858-5661
7 Nelson Rd 081-853-1508 FAX
Greenwich, London, SE10 9JB
(Major british hobby store, specializes in maritime modeling,
and just outside the gates of theGreenwich Maritime Museum!)
The Maryland Silver Company (Duane Borchers) 410-451-2135
PO Box 2368 mailto:mda...@annap.infi.net
Easton MD 21601
(Plans, models of Civil War ironclads; Catalog is about $5
or $6.)
McKenzie Company 206-881-2352
P.O. Box 2766
Redmond, WA 98073-2766
(McKenzie Drift Boat model kit)
Manta Submarines
3300 Apex PL.
North Vancouver BC
Canada V7H2R5
(1:72 Scale SSN-637)
Maritime Models Greenwich + 081-858 5661
7 Nelson Road
Greenwich, London SE10 England
(Good shop, just outside the gates of the Maritime Museum at
Greenwich; catalog is 65p, but you should send a couple of
dollars + International Reply Coupons, as the cost of airmail
is high.)
Maritime Museum Models (John Pignatelli) 310-548-7618
Los Angeles Maritime Museum
Berth 84
P.O. Box 1147
San Pedro, CA 90731
(Fiberglass hulls of warships & commercial vessels)
Masterpieces in Minature
P.O. Box 387
Medford, MA 02155
MCD Model Control Devices 705-738-1335
PO Box 173
18 Reid Street
Bobcaygeon, Ontario
Canada K0M 1AO
(705) 738-1335
(Electronics - Speed controls, monitors, multi-switch devices)
Midwest Product Co., Inc 219-942-1134
400 S. Indiana St.
P.O. Box 564
Hobart, IN 46342
("Rainbow" - America's Cup J-Boat Class Racer)
call to locate nearest dealer
Model Boats Unlimited 609-783-9163
P.O. Box 1135
Haddonfield, NJ 08033
(Warship & pleasure boats, catalog $7.00; current update $4.00)
The Model Dockyard (Nick Tonkin) +44 1872 222120
Tremorvah Barton +44 1872 260073 FAX
Truro Email: mailto:mo...@dockyard.co.uk
Cornwall, TR1 1NN WWW: http://www.dockyard.co.uk
England
1872 260073
(Worldwide mail order. Specialist suppliers to the scale ship
modeller. Period & modern kits, worlds largest selection of
boat fittings, timber, plans, steam plants, hand & power tools,
books, etc etc. Complete catalogue is available on Web site.)
Model Expo, Inc. 800-222-3876
P. O. Box 1000 717-839-2090 FAX
Mt. Pocono Industrial Park http://www.modelexpoinc.com/
Tobyhanna, PA. 18460-9985
(Specializes in imported plank-on-bulkhead kits, some others,
fittings, books, tools)
Model Shipways Division - (well researched kits - solid hull
& POF, fittings, books specifically covering many of their
models)
Espec. Recommended - "Neophyte Ship Modeler's Jackstay" by
Campbell, and "Historic Ship Models" by zu Mondfelt)
Combined Catalog - $5.00
Model Shipways == ACQUIRED BY MODEL EXPO!
Midwest Products Co 219-942-1134
P.O. Box 564
Hobart, IN 46342
(Manufactured of small craft)
Naval Base 718-471-3226
PO Box 207
Cedarhurst, NY 11516
(One of the few sources for Nichimo 1/500 scale Japanese
warships, and have a nice catalog; Plastic/resin ships, wide
selection, ~list prices, accessories and a few books.)
Naval Works 714-646-6746
1964 Federal Avenue
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
(1:700 resin kits)
The Naval Base 516-295-9525
560 Willow Avenue
Cedarhurst, NY 11516
(They carry pretty much all of the current-production plastic
ship models. They also list the following Pre-WWII resin kits
(some scratchbuilding is required). [from Todd Hoogerland]).
( Unlike most model catalogs, the kits are grouped by catagory,
i.e. British Battleships, American Aircraft Carriers, Japanese
Subs, etc. Scales and kit manufacturers are all mixed up
within catagories, though. Prices don't look that great, but
they do have a lot of stuff most mail order places don't carry
and the novel organization by ship type is very useful.
[from Matt Melchert]).
North River Scale Models, Inc.(Jim & Marilyn Roberts)
P. O. Box 426 mailto:SSBNd...@aol.com
Dover, N. J. 07802
(POF & solid kits, cannon, brass & brittiania fittings,
re-issuing Marine Model kits - Catalog - $3.00)
Pacific Front Hobbies (Bill Gruner) 206-821-2564
11804 NE 138th 206-821-9034 (FAX)
Kirkland, WA 98034 http://users.aol.com/pacfront/
(Distributer 1:1250 to 1:192 resin kits; and (mostly WWII)
aircraft and books; list price, wide selections, periodic
updates; Full line catalog is $5.00, UPDATE subscription is
$6.00/year for 6 issues, and new 1250TH FLEET newsletter for
1/1250 collectors is $4.00/year. Accept Visa, Mastercard and
Amex. mailto:pacf...@accessone.com )
Pleasant Cove Models Email: mailto:gin...@pcm.ultranet.com
17-N Potter Rd http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger
Framingham MA 01701
(Wood kits of small craft, built like full size boats. Sea Bird
Yawl, Skiff, Canoes, Lobster Boats, etc. Also made to order
cases and custom machine shop work related to model boats.)
Catalog - $2.00
Precision Scale Model Engineering 508-478-3148
33 Harding Street
Milford, MA 01757
(Precision tools, materials, lights, fiber optics, pneumatics,
motors, gears, bearings, couplings and hardware -- catalog:
$3.00 - payable to Lawrence J. Milo)
Rocky Mountain Scale Subs Unlimited (Lisa Norman) 970-434-5327
4255 South Buckley Road # 120
Aurora, CO 80013
(1:50 Scale Type XXI U-boat; SS-1 HOLLAND, etc.; catalog, $4.00.)
Saturated Steam 1-800-423-9009
A division of Small Parts, Inc.
P.O. Box 4175
Miami Lakes, FL 33014-0175
(steam engines, some suitable for model boats)
The Scale Shipyard / Warship Hulls Unlimited 310-428-5027
5866 Orange Ave. #3
Long Beach, CA. 90805-4146
(WWI-present fiberglass hulls, etc., for radio control models)
Catalog - $6.00
I don't know if this is the same:
The Scale Shipyard
3727 166th Pl. S.W.
Lynnwood WA 98037-7072
(Many different subs, American, German, Japanese; Catalog $6.00)
Seacraft Classics 800-356-1987
(sorry, no address)
(USS Constitution Kit, 1/8th scale. Costs $490 for the kit)
Select Hobby Supplies 203-633-9064
P.O. Box 723
Glastonbury, CT 06033
(Dealer kits & fittings)
Ship Ahoy Models and Minatures 617-233-6134
18 Cooper St. Boston, MA 02133
(models and tools -- catalog $1.00)
Ships N'Things 908-722-0075
P.O. Box 605-D
Somerville, NJ 08876
(R/C & Static -- Catalog - $5.00 (refundable)
Scaleships (Armand Veronico) 310-822-8945
P O Box 12131
Marina del Rey, CA 90295
(large variety of fiberglass hulls)
Scale Specialties 714-535-7486
P. O. Box 1117
Fullerton, CA
(Wargaming accessories, art prints, archival documents
(declassified) )
Catalog - $5.00
Sirmar Model Ship Fittings +44 384 263252
P.O Box 127
Stourbridge
West midlands
DY8 5XY
England
(1:96 fiberglass model of U.S.S. Farion (56" long), U.S.S.
Ticonderoga (7.5" long). [from Nick Tonkin])
Slagel Models, Inc.
P.O. Box 1639
Longview, WA 98632-7791
(Manufacturer nuclear submarine resin kits)
Squadron Mail Order 214-242-8663
1115 Crowley Drive 214-242-3775 FAX
Carrollton, TX 75011-5010 http://www.squadron.com/mailorder/
(Dealer plastic kits - ships, planes, armor; General models,
fast service, list prices, monthly updates)
Sterling Models, Inc. 215-426-4100
3100 C St.
Philadelphia, PA 19134
(Manufactures kits of the Emma Berry and America.)
Super Scale International, Inc. 702-882-8887
P.O. Box 1017
Carson City, NV 89702
(Decals for military aircraft in various scales.)
SWAMPWORKS MFG 417-831-2309 9-5 CDT Mon-Fri
1810 N. Farm Rd. 197 Email: mailto:SWAM...@aol.com
Springfield, MO 65802
{SWAMPWORKS MFG. offers a complete line of warship kits,
drive gear, bilge pumps, BB cannons, and CO2 delivery systems
designed just for the sport / hobby of R/C Model Warship Combat.
A package consisting of: catalog, price list, a brochure about
the hobby of R/C model warship combat, information about
contacting club members and club membership, and a copy of the
Battling and Construction rules along with the legal ship list
of the INT'L R/C WARSHIP COMBAT CLUB. is available for $6.00.)
Thoroughbred Figures (Toby Barrett) 757-471-5918
3833 Buckhorn Place
Virginia Beach, VA 23456
(1:600 white metal Civil War ironclads & ships)
Tom's Modelworks 408-777-TOMS
(No Address)
(1:350 complete PE sheet for the Tamiya Fletcher; $16)
Tower Hobbies 800-637-6050
P.O. Box 9078 800-637-4989 (order asst)
Champaign, IL 61826-9078
(Mail order hobby shop)
The Underground Modeller (Ted Waters) 1-800-808-KITS
*NEW* http://www.pathcom.com/~unmodel
unm...@pathcom.com
(wooden ship models, airplane, and metal car models)
Valley Plaza Hobbies 702-887-1027
2211 Mouton Drive 702-887-1027 (FAX)
Carson City, NV 89706-0471
(Model ship kits and supplies)
Catalog - $3.00
Village Hobby Shop (George Lewis) 512-452-6401
2700 W. Anderson Ln, Suite 402
Austin, TX 78757
(Ship model kits)
Vintage Limited, USA (Joan Scott) 713-249-8687
(No Address)
California.
(1:1200 or 1:1250 models)
VOCO MARINE MODEL
355 Barrington Ridge
Painesville, OH 44077
(Has released 1/87 (HO) scale kits of a Flush Deck 700 footer
and a 450' tanker in the past.)
Westbourne Model Centre 0202-763480
41 Seamoor Road 0202-763480 (FAX too)
Westbourne
Bournemouth
Dorset BH4 9AE
United Kingdom
(A UK source)
White Ensign
Gardener's Cottage
Cowarne Court
Lower Eggleton,
Ledbury, Herefordshire HR8 2UF England
(1/700 Dido. The list price is 43.75 pounds. Others in the
works.)
32nd Parallel 408-481-3170
P.O. Box 804
Pismo Beach, CA 93448
(manufacturer submarines, R/C)
101-C. TOOLS
-----
(Be sure to check out the FAQ for the rec.crafts.jewelery newsgroup,
as well; it's too long to incorporate here.)
Ace R/C 800-322-7121
116 W. 19th Street
P.O. Box 472
Higginsville, MO 64037
(R/C equipment)
Anchor Tools (Bill Schroeter) 908-245-7888
P. O. Box 265
Chathan, N. J. 07928-0265
(Hand tools, jewelers' supplies, Foredom)
Catalog - $4.00 (Refundable; $10 - Europe, $15 - Japan)
Blazer Corporation 212-532-1166
114 E. 32nd St.
New York, NY 10016
(micro torches)
Brookstone 603-924-9541 (ordrs - 24 hr)
127 Vose Farm Road 603-924-9511 (Cus. ser. 9-5 EST)
Peterborough, NH 03458
(Unusual tools with a number of gadgets. Nice catalog.
Brookstone has a number of stores around the country. You can
sometimes find specific items for less elsewhere.)
Calculated Industries, Inc. 800-854-8075
4840 Hytech Drive 702-885-4949 FAX
Carson City, NV 89706.
(A dimensional calculator for proportional scale modelers. The
ModelCalc has a proportional scaling key with 22 common model
scales (i.e., HO, N, G, 1:24, 1:400, +4 Custom Scales) built-in,
allowing users to simply enter the actual or prototype size (in
any dimensional format), and then find the scaled size with the
press of a button. List price of $59.95 and will be distributed
through leading modeling/hobby supply stores nationwide.)
CaRa Products 605-987-5924
P.O. Box 221
Canton, SD 57013
(R/C battery chargers)
Craftwoods 800-468-7070
2101 Greenspring Drive
Timonium, MD 21093
(Power tools, bits, knives, chisels, wood, paint, glues, vises,
wood burners and airbrushes)
Catalog - Free woodworking catalog
Dedeco International 914-887-4840
Rt. 97
Long Eddy, NY 12760-0244
(Dental abrasive tools -- free catalog)
Dremel
4916 21st Street
Racine, WI 53406
(Manufacturer of compact power hand tools, saws, sanders
-- free catalog)
Eastern Tool & Supply Co. 212-925-1006 (orders)
149 Grand Street 212-226-3749 (office)
New York, NY 10013 212-925-1010 (Fax)
(call for catalog)
Euro Tools 913-338-3131
11449 Randall Drive
Lenexa, KS 66205
(Swiss & German tools, new extra fine files -- free catalog)
Excel Hobby Blade Corp. (Mike Hammam, Pres.) 201-278-4000
481 Getty Avenue
Patterson, NJ 07503
(Scissors, vice, blades, gouges, saw blades, etc. -- free
catalog)
Foredom Electric Co.
Bethel, CT 06801
(Flex shaft & handpieces)
Gesswein
P.O. Box 3998
255 Hancock Avenue
Bridgeport, CT 06605
(Jewelers hand tools, casting equipment)
H & R
18 Canal Street
P.O. Box 122
Bristol, PA 19007-0122
(Science, R/C batteries)
Industrial Abrasives Co. 800-428-2222
642 N. 8th Street
Box 14955
Reading, PA 19612
(Sanding tools)
Jarmac, Inc. 217-789-7290
P.O. Box 2785
Springfield, IL 62708
(small table saw, 4" disk sander)
Jim Davis
8038 Oacjard Ave., N.E.
Elk River, MN 55330
(Scale Nautical Tool Co. product line)
J.F. McCaughin Co. 818-573-5781
2628 River Avenue 800-573-5781
Rosemead, Ca 91770-3395
(These people have a good inventory of tools for jewelry
manufacturing and investment casting. A very nice catalog
for the asking.)
K. H. Lee Jewelry & Craft Tools (Kenneth H. Lee) 800-435-4966
9078 Artesia Blvd. 310-920-3834
Bellflower, CA 90706
(New & used tools and equipment, some of which are useful for
modelers)
Klein Design Inc. 206-226-5937
17910 SE 110th Street 206-226-2756 (FAX)
Renton, WA 98059
(Small scale wood turning lathe, tools & videos -- catalog:
free)
Mascot Precision Tools 201-939-6700
750 Washington Ave
Carlstadt, NJ 07072
(Small hand tools) Catalog $2.00
Micro-Mark 800-225-1066
340 Snyder Ave. 908-665-9383 (FAX)
Berkeley Heights, N. J. 07922-1595
(Specializes in tools for minature & model builders; Cat.
excellent)
Catalog - $1.00 (Free with order)
Miracle Point 800-682-4256
P.O.Box 71
Crystal Lake, IL 60039
(Pliers)
NorthWest Short Line 206-932-1087
Box 423 206-935-7106 (FAX)
Seattle, WA 98111
(tools include "chopper", "True Sander", & "Dupli-cutter")
Details - free
PanVise Products (Patric O'Rourke) 702-353-2900
1485 Southern Way 702-353-2929 (FAX)
Sparks, NV 89431
(Vises)
Paul H Gesswein & Co., Inc. 203-366-5400
255 Hancock Ave.
P O Box 3998
Bridgeport, CT 06605-0936
(cutting & grinding bits)
Catalog $5.00
Paasche Airbrush Co. 708-867-9191
744 W. Lawrence Ave.
Harwood Heights, IL 60656-3497
(AIr brushes & paint booths)
PanaVise
1485 Southern Way
Sparks, NV 89431
(vises)
Preac Tool Co., Inc. (Charlie Files) 516-333-1500
512 Main St.
Westbury, N. Y. 11590-Dept. MS
(**EXCELLENT** 4"x6" table saw, small clamps, new thickness
sander) Catalog - SASE
Proedge 201-764-1120
Maple Grange Road
P.O. Box 888
Vernon, NJ 07462
Progress Machine & Tool Corp. 800-227-9775
610 South Broadway Suite 510 213-489-7262
Los Angeles, CA 90014
(cutting & grinding bits)
Royal Products 909-867-9272
P.O. Box 453 909-867-5629 FAX
31354 Firwood Dr.
Running Springs, CA 92382
(Thickness sander - free brochure)
RDA Productions 509-292-8157
P.O. Box 68
Elk, WA 99009-0068
(various parts to convert a Dremel tool into a lathe, saw, etc.)
The Sanding Catalog
P.O. Box 3737
Hickory, NC 28603-3737
(Made to order abrasive sheets)
Sherline Products, Inc (Craige V. Libuse) 800-541-0735
170 Navajo St. 619-744-3674 (outside US)
San Marcos, CA 92069 619-744-1574 (fax)
(Sherline lathes) http://www.sherline.com/sherline
Small Parts Inc. 800-220-4242
P.O. Box 4650 305-557-8222
13980 N.W. 58th Ct.
Miami Lakes, FL 33014-9727
(Small drills - down to .005 inch; "capillary" tubing (hypo
needle stock) in 18-24 in lengths; springs)
Small Parts has a lot of other interesting toys as well, including
very small wire drills ( < #80 ).
Syntax Mfg & Distributing 909-589-9811
249 S. Paseo Tesoro
Walnut, CA 91789
(Micro tourches -- free brochure)
Thayer Chandler 708-816-1611
28835 N. Herky Drive
Lake Bluff, IL 60044
(New Vega 2000 airbrush -- catalog available)
Thurston Manufacturing Co.
45 Borden Street
Providence, RI 02903
(Minature saw blades)
Tools for Model Makers
3 Arlington Street, Drawer S/S
Rochester, NY 14607
(minature clamps)
Wood Carvers' Supply, Inc. 800-284-6229
P. O. Box 7500 (813-698-0123 - Inquiries)
Englewood FL 34295
(Fine knives, chisels, Foredom tools, books, sanders)
Woodworkers Supply
1108 North Glenn Road
Casper, WY 82601
(Carvers tools)
Xuron Corporation
60 Industrial Park Road
Saco, ME 04072
(Pliers, scissors, cutters, photo etch cutters -- free catalog)
Zona Tool Company 800-696-3480
P. O. Box 502 800-299-4208 (FAX)
Bethel, CT 06801
(distributer for Berna Assembler, call to locate nearest
retailer)
(This question is continued in Part 13)
rev...@aol.com
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