ANY Help in Weathering with Chalks?
UsClintons
effects I have seen others do.
I just picked up my set of Alphacolor Pastel chalks and a can of Fixatif.
I have a vague idea of how to go about this any pointers on applying the chalks
(I have some foam tip applicators and extra brushes), blending colors, etc?
No tip to trivial for my first attempt!
Thanks,
Scott Clinton
Forest Dalton
I prefer pastel chalk sticks to already powdered pastel, as it is much
cleaner and much cheaper. I use a palate made from 4" X 6" index card. I
scrap the stick of the color/s chosen with a utility knife blade until I
have enough powder to work with. I do not like sponges tips, they embed the
powder too deeply. I will usually take a used #3 or #1 round brush and cut
it off in a rounded style with a sharp utility knife blade. This stubble
brush is lightly daubed into the powder and lightly brush onto the model in
the place required. Excess is merely blown off in the direction of the
airstream. Any additional excess is cleaned off with a dry Q-tip. I will do
any pastel weathering last before applying the last flat clear coats. If you
must have a gloss coat, it is recommended that you apply the chalk after
your final gloss coat, because the clear gloss will cover your fine
weathering work and ruin it. Just leave the chalk weathering on the gloss
finish. It ever gets smudged, all you have to do is swab it off with a damp
Q-tip, dry the area, and reweather.
Caz Dalton, IPMS #34765
Forest Dalton
www.imagesoft.net/flags/flags.html.
Caz Dalton, IPMS #34765
Denis Winters
an old winf and paint it in (flats) Pastels stuck best to flat paint and
just goof around with them.
Remember Lighter color to fade and Darker to make it look dirty or stained
most of all have fun
Denis Winters
IPMS 31989<><
Charles Metz
I posted the following back in early '97. Essentially the same
techniques can be used to represent exhaust stains, dust, etc.
Charles Metz
--------------------
SHADING PANEL LINES
by Charles Metz
On Wednesday, 19 March 1997, Dave Williams posted on rec.models.scale:
> I’m looking for info on how to go about darkening
> recessed panel lines on aircraft models like seen on
> some photos. I’m not talking about making sharp,
> distinct panel lines (like by filling the recesses with
> a wash and wiping off the excess so the color only
> is in the recesses), but where it looks like the dark
> panel line color feathers off sideways into the
> surrounding panels.
>
> Is this effect done with a super thin airbrushed line,
> or is it using something like oil paint in the recess
> and then using a brush to feather sideways?
Far and away the easiest (and safest) way to do this, in my humble
opinion, is to use chalk-based (NOT — repeat, NOT — oil-based) Artists’
Pastels and a paper “blending stick.” (Oil-based Artists’ Pastels will
permanently stain the surface of your model and can’t be “feathered”
properly. Chalk-based pastels are more common, but be careful to get
the right kind). Artists’ Pastels and paper blending sticks can be
purchased at any decent artists’ supply shop, but sets of chalk-based
Artists’ Pastels in various shades of gray and in various earth-tone
colors (which are the two color groups you’ll use most in modeling) are
also available by mail-order from MicroMark. The great advantages of
using Artists’ Pastels are that (i) they’re very easy to control and
(ii) you can remove what you’ve applied and start over if you screw up.
The paper “blending sticks” come in various sizes; I recommend the
smallest, which is 2 or 3 inches long and tapers to a rather sharp
point, but larger blending sticks can be useful in some situations
(e.g., for applying exhaust stains).
The basic idea is to rub the tip of the paper blending stick lightly
along a pastel stick of appropriate color and then run it lightly along
a panel line. This will put pastel dust into the panel line (if it’s
engraved) and will smear some on each side of the panel line. Next, run
a “Q-Tip” along the panel line to lightly wipe most of the pastel dust
off of the surface of your model while leaving much of it in the panel
line (if it’s engraved). You should be striving for a subtle effect
here, so start lightly, finish going over the entire model, look at the
results with a fresh eye a few hours or a few days later, and only then
decide whether you want to darken the shading. You’ll be able to remove
most or all of the pastels you’ve applied by rubbing and/or washing with
water if you don’t like the affect you’ve achieved, but try hard not to
apply too much in the first place. After you’re sure you’ve obtained
the effect you want, you can apply a clear coat to “fix” the pastel dust
to your model if you wish. However, this isn’t really necessary unless
the model will be handled where the pastels have been applied, because
pastel dust clings well by itself.
Artists’ Pastels also work well for exhaust stains and for “oil
blow-back” stains. To simulate oil blow-back stains that emerge from
between engine-cowling panels, use low-tack masking tape to mask the
forward panel at a panel line; use a fine paper blending stick and black
or dark-gray pastel dust to run a fine line rearward from the tape,
starting your line on the tape; and then remove the masking.
Though I rarely bother, you can mix pastel colors by scraping a bit of
dust from each of two or more pastel sticks, mixing thoroughly, and then
applying with your paper blending stick.
As with any new technique, you should practice before using this method
on an important model. However, pastels are very easy to apply and very
“forgiving,” so you’ll probably need only a little practice before you
develop a clear sense of control. Just remember: keep it subtle.
Steve Bamford
paper. this creates a pile of very fine powder. then I take a Q
Tip....cotton swab.... and brush it into the pile of chalk dust....being
careful not to pick up very much powder.....going slowly is the trick to
this technique. Then I rub the Q Tip along the areas I want to apply the
chalk. Any mistakes can be removed with a damp Kleenex....facial
tissue..... there are a few problems you have to ponder. If you don't
apply aclear coat on top of the chalk, then you will ahve to be very
careful or you might rub off the chalk when you're handling the model. If
you do clear coat on top of the chalk then the clear coat will reduce the
appearance of your chalk weathering by about 50% (or at least that's been my
experience). If the model is for display purposes only then I would suggest
not applying a clear coat on top of the chalk weathering and just make sure
you handle it very carefully. Without the clear coat, your efforts will
show up much better.
Best of luck...it's actually very easy once you give it a try.
Steve Bamford
Rama Lama Do Dah Day
Official Temple Historian
Grand Creator of :-ş on RMS
Northern Temple
Canada
Andrew Irving
Steve Bamford wrote:
> I take my NON oil based pastel chalk and grind it against some 1 grit sand
> paper. this creates a pile of very fine powder. then I take a Q
> Tip....cotton swab.... and brush it into the pile of chalk
Steve
Where do you get that 1 grit paper, my Driveway is getting kind of rough and
could do with a little touchup
Rama LLama Whathedo
Guardian of the Maidens Tower
Keeper of the Keys
Lord High Offender
Regards
Andy
Aurora, Ontario
Canada
Steve Bamford
keyboard......actually I meant to say 100 or was it 125?....actually either
would do.....say away from the 1 grit paper though.....
Steve Bamford
Rama Lama Do Dah Day
Official Temple Historian
Grand Creator of :-ş on RMS
Northern Temple
Canada
Andrew Irving wrote in message <3777682E...@sympatico.ca>...