Hasegawa Macchi C.202 Folgore
Scott thompson
anyone could give me some help with the cockpit and wheel weel area
colors. I have pretty good references on most WWII Air Forces but my
material is a little lacking for the Italians. I also have a True
Details cockpit set for this aircraft which after viewing the Hasegawa
cockpit seems a little unnecessary. Any tips on building this kit would
also be appreciated.
Thanks:
Scott Thompson
IPMS#36469
Mark C.
Scott thompson wrote:
Glad you asked ... I just finished this little beauty, and this is what
I've found:
1. Watch the wingroots and dihedral. The real thing did have dihedral of
about 2.5 degrees, which may require you to trim the tabs at the bottom of
the fuselage. The wingroots can be mildly tricky, so take your time.
Also, you will probably notice the wing's chord at the root to be wider
than the fillet on the fuselage. This is an easy fix, just sand the wings
a little.
2. Depending on the type of Folgore you're modelling remove the wing
guns. Only late Folgores actually had them, and most were removed in the
field anyway. So if you decide on an example with the (non) armored
windshield (Type I - III) definitely remove the wing guns. Shave them off
carefully, but don't drill any holes to make it seem as if the guns were
absent. Folgores had a metal circular plate over the holes, and H. has
molded those very well on the wing.
3. The hood insert does not fit well. A little patience, dry-fitting, and
sanding should fix that problem - but allow some time to do the job right.
4. Contrary to Hasegawa's instructions, some Folgores *did* have the front
tailwheel fairing. Check the example you're modelling to be certain.
5. Dump the decals - not that they're that bad, they're just so dull
compared to what you can get from Aeromaster. (On that subject, you'll
find that neither H's nor Aero's fuselage band fit at all well. Be
patient, careful, & use LOTS of setting solution).
6. Hasegawa's instructions contain two errors. First, the front air scoop
is shown installed backwards. Second, the inner gear doors are shown
inside-out. Exchange the doors cited in the instructions. Finally, the
antenna post may require a tweak or two to fit properly.
Painting -
6. Aeromaster recently introduced Anticorrosion Green for Italian
aircraft. I'd use that for the interior, wheel wells, inside of gear
doors, etc.
7. The seat should actually be bare aluminum, according to my references.
BTW, the TD set is very nice, except that the H. seat is more accurate than
is TD's. Also, you may want to do as I did with TD's instrument panel -
file it smooth, and replace the instruments with Reheat decals and etched
brass bezels. The IP is black, as is the interior of the windshield and
canopy framing.
8. Since there are so many "Italian" colors available from Polly-Scale and
Aeromaster, check your references to be sure you buy the "right" tan,
green, etc etc etc. They did vary from theatre to theatre.
9. Options - you can buy the Eduard set for this kit, and use the radiator
parts and torque scissors for the landing gear, as well as other bits &
pieces. Eduard does not give you seat belts, oddly enough, and the TD ones
molded into the seat are incorrect. You can also buy the Jaguar set, which
I understand is a beauty (I've never used it).
HTH,
Mark
Dtsquad
for the MC202/205. It is a little bit more than
True Details set but it has all the hoses and piping moulded in to the forward
section of the wheel well. I can't say how well it all fits together but it
sure looks great in the box. (Like most everthing
else that I bought and have yet to assemble!
Todd
Joe Hegedus
> 5. Dump the decals - not that they're that bad, they're just so dull
> compared to what you can get from Aeromaster. (On that subject, you'll
> find that neither H's nor Aero's fuselage band fit at all well. Be
> patient, careful, & use LOTS of setting solution).
Why not just paint the fuselage band? I find that much easier than
trying to get decal bands to line up correctly and snuggle down
properly, plus you don't have to worry about the color under the band
decal showing through.
Joe
Mark C.
Joe Hegedus wrote:
Always an alternative; however, having the fuselage bands at hand, I decided
to try them. Also, some people would rather not try to mask compound curves,
or may simply assume the kit bands work fine. Hence my warning, should the
modeller decide to use the kit-supplied or accessory fuselage bands.
Mark
PSC
>
> Painting -
>
> 6. Aeromaster recently introduced Anticorrosion Green for Italian
> aircraft. I'd use that for the interior, wheel wells, inside of gear
> doors, etc.
>
Vintage color pics in a couple of my references show wheel wells, inside
doors, & L.g. struts in underside grey. Verde anticorrisione in the
cockpit, crinkle black panel, nmf seat, black interior canopy frames as
Mark stated.
Note that only the RCR etched seat harness is correct - that in the TD,
Jaguar, and great new "FM" set seen at the NATS are incorrect. Italian
fighters had a back pad attached to 2 shoulder straps connecting at
belt-buckle level to a single between-the-legs groin belt with no seat
belt.
Pete Chalmers
Randy Lutz
>
> I have just purchased the Hasegawa C.202 Folgore and was wondering if
> anyone could give me some help with the cockpit and wheel weel area
> colors. I have pretty good references on most WWII Air Forces but my
> material is a little lacking for the Italians. I also have a True
> Details cockpit set for this aircraft which after viewing the Hasegawa
> cockpit seems a little unnecessary. Any tips on building this kit would
> also be appreciated.
>
> Thanks:
> Scott Thompson
> IPMS#36469
Hi Scott,
I have recently completed this kit using the Jaguar detail set. I have
copied in to my response, the building/review article I wrote for the
January/98 issue of Scale Modeler magazine. This should give you an
idea of what to watch out for.
THE MODEL
The subject of this article is Hasegawa's Macchi C.202 which
consists of 74 parts and 4 clear pieces. Of the 78 total parts, 7
are not for use with the C.202, but are meant for the C.205 Veltro.
The main parts are moulded in medium grey and display fine recessed
scribing. The kit features a nicely detailed cockpit by injection
moulded standards which would be more than acceptable if built out
of the box. However, modellers being the perfectionists that we
are, I wanted to improve my model by using the Jaguar cockpit set.
The Jaguar set is cast in a tan coloured resin and the 22 parts
display an incredible amount of detail and depth. The set is not
just limited to the cockpit, but also includes replacement exhaust
manifolds, and a wheel well insert which replicates the busy
plumbing found at the back of the engine.
The initial steps involved cleaning up the resin pieces and
modifying the kit fuselage halves to accept the resin cockpit. One
of my most enjoyable aspects of building aircraft is the painting
and detailing of cockpits, and the Jaguar set is an absolute
pleasure to paint. For the most part, the cockpits of Italian
aircraft were painted in Verde Anticorrosion (anti-corrosion
green). The closest FS equivalent is 34558, however to the best of
my knowledge, this colour is not offered by any of the major hobby
paint companies. I mixed my own interpretation of the colour using
Xtra-color enamels, and airbrushed all the interior components.
When mixing this elusive shade, make more than you need and store
it in a jar, as invariably, you will need it again before the model
is finished. A dark wash was applied to the cockpit parts and when
dry, my usual dry-brushing followed. The instrument panel and
some of the smaller cockpit details were painted semi-gloss black,
for which Testors Model Master Black Chrome is ideal. I have come
to use this black to such an extent that I very seldom use flat
black anymore. A little grey dry-brushing and the basic cockpit
components were completed.
Jaguar supplies two seats with their detail set; one with seat
belts cast in place and one without. I used the seat with the
belts as it looked as good, or better than I could make using
photo-etched hardware. The completed cockpit assembly was
installed in the fuselage halves, and it was back to the airframe
construction.
The horizontal stabilizers do not fit well. I found them to be
loose, and wobbly and care must be taken to ensure that they set up
at right angles to the vertical fin. Two parts comprise the
supercharger intake. All that is missing is the intake shutter,
which I made from a small disk of styrene punched out using a
Waldron punch.
Next I moved on to the wing assembly and my first step was to
discard parts C2, C15 and C16. These three parts are replaced with
the Jaguar resin wheel well insert which does a much better job of
reproducing the busy look of the gear bay. My reference sources
indicated that the gear bays on Italian aircraft were finished in
the same colour as the underside of the airframe. For this colour,
I used Xtra-color X134, FS16307 as it generally accepted as the
closest match to the Grigio Azzuro Chiaro 1 (light blue grey 1).
This same grey was airbrushed on the landing gear struts as well as
both sides of the gear covers and the underside of the flying
surfaces. It was followed by a dark wash and then a very light
grey dry-brushing. The resin wheel well insert was first
airbrushed black, then airbrushed with a dark grey, deliberately
not getting into all the small crevices. Next it was airbrushed a
lighter grey which covered less area than the previous dark grey.
I used the colour photographs in the Aero Detail to determine which
hoses should be finished in blue, red, green, yellow and natural
metal. Once all the paint was dry, the insert was given a liberal
wash of black india Ink, and finally flat coated. The unit was
fastened in place and then the tops of the wings were glued to the
one-piece wing bottom. The completed wing was next attached to the
fuselage, and it was at this point that I encountered the major fit
problems with the kit. A small styrene spacer is necessary at the
trailing edge of the wing bottom and fuselage joint. The wing can
be adjusted slightly rearwards, but then a step results at the
leading edge of the wing filet. With the wing in place, I then
discovered that the scribing for the 4 wing spar inspection panels
did not line up. Hasegawa has split the panels with one half of
each scribed in the wing and the corresponding half scribed in the
fuselage filet. To remedy this, I made new panels from .005
styrene and glued them over the originals. This was followed by a
light sanding to tone down the edges of each panel.
Before any airframe painting could begin, I had to determine in
which scheme the model was going to be finished. I would have
preferred something a little flashier, but, as this model was for
review, I was limited to choosing between the two schemes Hasegawa
provided. One is the dark green rings over tan, or the one shown
here, dark green splotches over tan. This type of camouflage is
commonly referred to as Serir, which by definition refers to a
typical North African scenery with small scrubby bushes. In either
case, I first had to spray on the white fuselage band using Testors
Model Master Insignia White, FS17875. When dry, it was masked off
and the base colour of Nicciola Chiaro 4 (light hazel-nut 4) was
applied using Xtra-color X102 Tan Vietnam FS30219. This was
followed by small irregular patches of Verde Oliva Scuro 2 (dark
olive green), which was duplicated by using Xtra-color X109 Marine
Corps Green FS34052. The key with the patches is to keep them
irregular in shape. Check your references, and if possible refer
to a photo of the subject being modelled as in some cases the
patches are more long than round. The intensity also varies from
very small and light to heavy. Note how the upper surface
camouflage colours wrap around the underside of the fuselage and
the leading edge of the wings. While being common on Italian
aircraft, it was not applied in all cases.
Once the paint was dry, I applied the kit supplied decals. These
decals have to rank as the biggest disappointment of the kit. They
are printed by Cartograph, and while displaying perfect
registration and vibrant colours, they are terrible in terms of
adhesion. No matter how much Solvaset was applied, and no matter
how much poking and prodding they were subjected to, I could not
get rid of the silvering. Once all the decals were applied, I had
to make templates and masks to protect all the printed portions of
the national insignia and squadron codes, and go back and re-apply
the camouflage over the model. The problem I encountered may be as
a result of something I did, or did not do, but in any case, I will
not use Cartograph decals again. I would like to say the decals
are unusable, but if you do not care what the finished product
looks like, then I suppose they are usable.
Next, the fiddly bits such as the landing gear, resin exhausts, and
underwing radiator were installed. I mixed up a wash of dark grey
paint and turpentine and applied it to all panel lines, while a
black wash was used for any control surfaces or access panels.
Subtle chipping was next, using a silver paint/Windsor and Newton
Raw Umber oil paint mix thinned with turpentine. This was painted
on using a 000 brush. Once everything was dry, the model was
airbrushed with Testors Dullcoat. The undersides were dusted with
dark grey pastel along all panel lines while the top sides were
treated to a lighter tan pastel on all panel lines which run
perpendicular to the direction of flight. Panel lines which run in
the direction of flight were highlighted with a dark grey pastel.
The wing tip lights were brush painted using Humbrol gloss crimson
#20, and Brunswick green #3. The oleo, or shock portion of the
undercarriage was covered with aluminium foil, which was affixed
using Micro Scale Aluminium Foil adhesive and a stretched sprue
antenna wire was the last item to be added.
Fit problems and lousy decals aside, the Hasegawa Folgore builds up
into a fine replica of one of Italy's finest fighters of the second
world war. If you intend to add one of these fighters to your
collection, this is the unanimous choice over the Tauro or Gull
Models offerings. I thought that it would be a challenge to paint,
but to the contrary, it was one of the easiest subjects I had yet
painted, and ends up being one of the most visually appealing as
well.
REFERENCES
Aero Detail 15, Macchi C.200/202/205. Dai Nippon Kaiga Company
Ltd., Tokyo, Japan.
Ali D’Italia Aer.Macchi C.202. La Bancarella Aeronautica, Torino,
Italy.
Italian Air Force Camouflage in II World War by Nini Arena. Mucchi
Publishing, Modena Italy.
Macchi C.202 in Action. Squadron Signal Publications, Carrollton,
Texas.
Regia Aeronautica Vol. 1, A Pictorial History of the Italian Air
Force 1940-1943. Squadron Signal Publications, Carrollton, Texas.
Randy Lutz
IPMS Canada
Mark C.
PSC wrote:
> Mark C. wrote:
> >
>
> > Painting -
> >
> > 6. Aeromaster recently introduced Anticorrosion Green for Italian
> > aircraft. I'd use that for the interior, wheel wells, inside of gear
> > doors, etc.
> >
>
> Vintage color pics in a couple of my references show wheel wells, inside
> doors, & L.g. struts in underside grey. Verde anticorrisione in the
> cockpit, crinkle black panel, nmf seat, black interior canopy frames as
> Mark stated.
I know, I know... :) this interior/wheel well color business is very
difficult to resolve with Italian aircraft. While I have read that the
interior is AC green, I've also read that a preserved Folgore had a grey
interior, with AC green wheel wells *and* wheel struts.
Mark
>
>
> Note that only the RCR etched seat harness is correct - that in the TD,
> Jaguar, and great new "FM" set seen at the NATS are incorrect. Italian
> fighters had a back pad attached to 2 shoulder straps connecting at
> belt-buckle level to a single between-the-legs groin belt with no seat
> belt.
That is odd - I used the RCR set originally designed for the Tauro Folgore,
and it didn't have the layout above. It was much more conventional, with
what appeared to be seat and shoulder straps - could RCR have issued
corrected hardware?
>
>
> Pete Chalmers
AHorv43767
interior set. Only one question, especially for Randy and Mark: To what scale
of kit do your comments pertain? I note that both the Hase kit and TD detail
set are offered in both 1/72 and 1/48; I ordered the former; are some or all of
you talking about the latter?
August
The Shannons
lot if you look at the aircraft on the field, but it all makes sense if you
realize that there was variation based on the manufacturer and field refits.
Verde Anticorrosion was heavily used by Macchi and Fiat on interiors and wheel
wells, but Breda built Folgore's had underside gray wheel wells and more
aluminium painted interior surfaces. Also, a big clue to the builder of a
Macchi is the style of camouflage applied if its in the "Sand and Spinach"
colors. Macchi painted the green on the sand in "smoke ring" patterns, Breda
used more a pattern of short comma shaped mottles. (Fiat tended to paint
mottling in "Stella" - Star - pattern, roughly rectangular shapes with soft
edges and spiky feathered trailers.) I'm not at my references right now, but
there was also a difference in where the fuselage separation line was for the
colors, with Macchi painting the sides of the radiator bath in the upper
camouflage while Breda painted them Grigio Azzurro Ciarro. Macchi wrapped the
upper surface camouflage over the leading edges of the wings and horizontal
tailplane and wrapped all the way around the fuselage.
Field applied tended to be more in the style of Fiat "stella" patterns, with
variations in the separation lines and wheel wells. Of course, the mix and
match nature of field repairs makes all bets off as to maker, but if you see a
smoke ring patterned aircraft with a grey radiator bath, consider it a Macchi
built example with a replacement radiator.
For temperate schemes, the separation line information is your best bet as to
maker. There are detail differences, as well, depending on maker and early vs.
late built. The main differences, aside from the wing guns, are the shape of
the landing light (early had a squared edge cover, mid-to-late production the
clear part was oval), and the position of the venturi (that double cone shaped
proturbance), with early models having it on the starboard fuselage side and
late under the wing.
There are a few references available in English, though not many. The In
Action on the MC-202 is a good source of photos, and reasonably accurate
description, but it doesn't deal very well with the manufacturer differences.
Mark C.
AHorv43767 wrote:
I'm talking about the 48th-scale offering only. BTW, the 48th scale Folgore is
being sold by Squadron on special for only $14.98 this month, should you be
interested.
Mark
Joe Hegedus
>
> This thread is really timely for me since I just ordered the kit and the TD
> interior set. Only one question, especially for Randy and Mark: To what scale
> of kit do your comments pertain? I note that both the Hase kit and TD detail
> set are offered in both 1/72 and 1/48; I ordered the former; are some or all of
> you talking about the latter?
>
> August
I have both the 1/72 and 1/48 versions, with the cockpit from TD for the
1/48. I've built the 1/72 OOB, and found it to go together easily with
no surprises. The cockpit is a bit bare but that's typical for Hase in
this scale anymore. :-( It looks nice on the shelf, though, but the
kit decals were a bit translucent.
Joe
PSC
>
> PSC wrote:
>
> > Mark C. wrote:
> > >
> >
> > > Painting -
> > >
> > > 6. Aeromaster recently introduced Anticorrosion Green for Italian
> > > aircraft. I'd use that for the interior, wheel wells, inside of gear
> > > doors, etc.
> > >
> >
> > Vintage color pics in a couple of my references show wheel wells, inside
> > doors, & L.g. struts in underside grey. Verde anticorrisione in the
> > cockpit, crinkle black panel, nmf seat, black interior canopy frames as
> > Mark stated.
>
> I know, I know... :) this interior/wheel well color business is very
> difficult to resolve with Italian aircraft. While I have read that the
> interior is AC green, I've also read that a preserved Folgore had a grey
> interior, with AC green wheel wells *and* wheel struts.
>
> Mark
Well, the pics in Replic, Aerofan (c.205), and AL D'italia No.2 are
original WW2 color, and show both Breda and Macchi-built machines with
grey as I stated. Restored aircraft in the Aerodetail ( a MUST HAVE )
have been repainted. Not to say that others were not painted differently
..
>
> >
> >
> > Note that only the RCR etched seat harness is correct - that in the TD,
> > Jaguar, and great new "FM" set seen at the NATS are incorrect. Italian
> > fighters had a back pad attached to 2 shoulder straps connecting at
> > belt-buckle level to a single between-the-legs groin belt with no seat
> > belt.
>
> That is odd - I used the RCR set originally designed for the Tauro Folgore,
> and it didn't have the layout above. It was much more conventional, with
> what appeared to be seat and shoulder straps - could RCR have issued
> corrected hardware?
>
Yes, they did. C.M.P.R. Milano did their homework for the later
"harness" only set.
The RCR set I'm talking about is set "S16" - "Fibbie E Cinture Di
Sicurezza Regia Aeronautica" which has 1:48 harnesses' for 6 aircraft
(plus some ring/bead sights), 2 with the "through the armor plate"
harness restraint/lock typical of the C.202 and C.205 with head/back
armor and a drawing of same, plus drawings of a C.20x installation, a
copy of a factory shot of (I believe) a CR.32 installation, and some
nice p.e. chains ( tough guys !) which were used to adjust the harness.
I got mine from USK - It's in their latest catalog.
Pete Chalmers
Cameron Lynch
Cameron Lynch
Donald K. Merchant December 16, 1974
Donald S. Lopez
Robert C. Mikesh
Painting of Macchi C.202 Folgore
The following guidelines should be included with the original Curatorial Restoration Package, dated 3 October 1974, pertaining to the restoration of this aircraft and rescinds the supplemental memo dated 13 November 1974.
To ensure accuracy for general markings, one specific photograph of an M.C.202 has been selected as the pattern to be followed. Thig is the aircraft marked 90-4 of the 43 Stormo, 100 Gruppo, 90 Squadriglia, as seen in Libya in the summer of 1942. Until a clearer print is obtained, the photo on page 7 of Profile Publication No. 28 has been copied and attached for use.
The basic camouflage will consist of a semi-flat finish that is smooth enough to resist absorption of dust and hand oil, yet does not produce light reflections. Colors to be used do not precisely coincide with Munsell Color Code Numbers, but the closest possible matches have been made as a matter of record.
2.5YY 6/4 to 2.5Y 7/4 Sand Upper surfaces and all of fuselage and vertical stabilizer.
5GY 4/2 to 5GY 5/2 Mottle Green Small splotches of color to be applied over the sand colored surfaces.
10B 6/1 Sky Gray Under surface of wing and stabilizer.
7.5GY 6/2 Interior Green Cockpit area and other structural interiors.
To facilitate proper blending of camouflage lines, the lower surfaces of the wing and stabilizer should be painted Sky Gray first. This should include both sides of the landing gear covers and doors. Unless evidence of paint colors indicates differently, the structure inside the wheel wells will be Sky Gray.
The entire fuselage, fin and rudder, and top surface of the wing and stabilizer is to be painted sand color. This color will come over the leading edge of the wing to 40% of the distance back to the first skin seam lines. This overspray blend line is approximately 50 mm wide. In the area of the wheel well, this sand color will be unblended to this opening. The same proportion of the sand color around the leading edge of the wing will be used for the stabilizer.
The most delicate aspect of this restoration will be the application of the mottle green in small patches over the sand color surface. Too few or too many patches per given surface area will determine the success or failure of this part of the restoration. Further, too intense application of this color would be more damaging than if it were too thin or light.
Practice to ensure success is encouraged before an attempt is made to spray this pattern on the aircraft. It is recommended that a large sheet of metal be painted with the sand finish on which to practice regulating the intensity of the spray pattern as well as the irregularity of the designs themselves. The importance of this aspect of the restoration cannot be over-emphasized.
As a further guide to the application of these green splotches. chalking their location and general shape and size is recommended. The photo that will be used as a pattern should be closely followed at this point. A reversed print will be supplied for similar use for the left side of the aircraft. Prior to the painting of each splotch., reference should be made to the photograph so that the respective technique of overspraying is followed.
Fuselage Band
This will be flat white. Care must be taken to ensure that the band is at right angles to the fuselage centerline and not necessarily matched to rivet or metal seam lines, though this may possibly be the correct alignment. The band will begin at the forward edge of the upper fuselage access panel immediately behind the head rest fairing and will end at the forward edge of the two hinged access panels at the side of the head rest fairing. This will provide a waistband of 60 cm in width.
White Tail Cross
This will be laid out in accordance to the fabric sample from King Victor Emanuel’s M.C. 202 Item 314 of the Mother Tusch Collection. This sample will establish the position and size of the vertical bar and the rear portion of the horizontal bar on the rudder. The forward arm to be applied on the fin will match the arm on the rudder in size and location. Flat white, the same as the fuselage band, will be used.
Propeller Spinner
This will be flat white. The portion of the spinner behind the propeller will be sand finish with a few suggestions of mottle green overspray patches.
Wing Insignia
A sample pattern design of the insignia to be used is attached, and a full-size pattern from which to construct a stencil will follow. This design will he painted in flat black and with no background other than the camouflage colors.
The top insignia will be 90 cm in outside diameter. Note that there is a left and a right in this insignia and that the blades are to point outward. Position the insignia so that the vertical centerline matches the skin mating line that intercepts the aileron cutout. The insignia will be centered fore and aft from the leading edge and the aileron cutout area.
The bottom insignia will be 1 m in outside diameter. The inboard edge will be 40 cm in from the skin mating line that is approximately 1 1/2 m in from the wing tip. The aft portion of the insignia will be 25 mm forward of the aileron cutout.
Propeller
The propeller will need repainting. Before removing the paint, a tracing must be made of the "BREDA" logo. From this, cut a paint spraying stencil and test the pattern by paint spraying to check the accuracy of the newly cut stencil. When it is determined that the width of the letter strokes and the overall design matches the original., the paint can be removed from the propeller.
Respray the propeller with flat black paint. The outer 9 cm of the propeller tip will be flat yellow (FS 595 33538).
The “BREDA” logo will be reapplied to the front face of the propeller blades only. These will be painted with "lemon yellow". They will be 71 cm in from the tip to the back side of the letter "E".
Landing Gear
The landing gear strut and actuating arm will be painted aluminum.
Individualized Detail Markings
The following numbered descriptions match the marking numbers identified on the attached marking guide photo.
1. The 4 Stormo cowl marking’ “4 F. Baracca” is painted on both sides of the engine cowl immediately behind the propeller spinner. Positioning for the left side will be as shown in the photo found in Pictorial History of the Mediterranean Air War, Vol. 3, aircraft marked with “84-12”, of which a nose enlargement photo is attached. For the right side, position as shown in Profile Publication No. 28, page 7.
When the cowl is reattached to the aircraft, the size and location of this marking will be determined from these photographs. This inscription will be in flat white.
2. The fuselage Fasces Insignia copied from Regia Aeronautica: Colori E Insegne 1935-1943 will be used as a pattern. The overall outside diameter is 33 cm for both the left right facing design. The center of this device will be 50 cm to the rear of the forward edge of this panel. This museum’s exhibit department will be asked to assist in preparing this insignia for application to both sides of the fuselage.
3. This device on the fuselage armament access cannot be clearly determined from existing material. Consequently, only the white triangle will be applied until additional information is discovered. Size and design are attached.
4. There are a number of metal placards attached with rivets to the outside of the aircraft that require specialized repainting. These should be removed for painting assistance from our exhibits department. Where left and right side placards exist, they should be so marked on the rear face to ensure correct positioning. The placards requiring this special painting and handling are:
a. Propeller data on left side of cockpit.
b. Electrical jack plug at left lower center of fuselage.
c. Liquid coolant filler at right lower center of fuselage.
d. Left tire pressure placard on landing gear cover.
e. Right tire pressure placard on landing gear cover.
f. Tail wheel tire pressure placard on left side of tail cover.
g. Left fuselage arrow for stabilizer adjustment.
h. Right fuselage arrow for stabilizer adjustment.
i. Left stabilizer arrow for stabilizer adjustment.
j. Right stabilizer arrow for stabilizer adjustment.
5. The placard under the left side canopy is missing. A photograph of this placard is attached. We will request the exhibits department’s assistance to make black lettering, white background ink copy of this to then be photographically reduced so that a film negative of the desired size can be obtained.
Centers between top rivets are 106 mm and the lower rivets are 107 mm.
With this film negative, we will request the Office of Graphics and Exhibits of the National Zoological Park to electrostatically produce a metal placard for the aircraft; black background, silver letters.
6. This will be of the same design and color as number 3., except for the additional mark. A full-size pattern is attached.
7. This appears to be a first aid location marker applied over this access panel. The cross is insignia red within a black circle. This design will be centered on the door on the left side only. A full-size pattern is attached.
8. This is the insignia of the 40 Stormo, "Cavallino Rarnpante", which will be applied on both sides and centered in the fuselage band. The lowest portion of this insignia will be approximately 15 mm above the numbers.
The design of this insignia will be obtained from one of two sources. If Mr. R. Ward forwards his art work on this insignia to us, we will use this. Otherwise, the negative of the attached photo will be used to print a full-size image to be graphically traced for better definition and used for preparing a silk screen copy.
The overall width of the insignia will be 21 cm. The assistance of the exhibits department will be requested for design work and silk screening this in flat black directly on the aircraft. There will be a left and a right insignia with the horse facing forward unless evidence is found which indicates other wise.
9. The numbers "90-4" will be laid out and hand-painted in the fuselage band. The "90" will be in black with the "-4" in insignia red. The horizontal centerline of these numbers will overlay the metal skin seam running horizontally at the approximate fuselage centerline. We will ask
the exhibits department to develop these numbers in a full-size pattern from existing photos.
10. The fictitious serial number will appear on both sides of the aft fuselage, but it will be one within the Series III block numbers. The number to be used is “M.M.7837”, with the letters ‘A.S.” below. (The latter stands for “Africs Settentrconale”, indicating aircraft is equipped for desert warfare, primarily by the addition of the dust filter over the supercharger air intake.) A preliminary pattern is attached, showing the location. These markings will be in flat black on both sides of the fuselage.
11. The aircraft identifying data layout design will be developed from existing photos and a full-size pattern layout of the existing skin layout of the vertical fin will also be developed. This will be in flat black lettering on both sides of the fin.. The data as shown will remain unchanged.
12. The Coat-of-Arms of the House of Savoia will be in decal form and is currently under development by the exhibits department based on an original sample as described in the earlier section concerning the “White Tail Cross”.
13. Alleged stenciling. Content currently unknown.
14. This marking on the tail wheel fork appears to be “A.S.” of the same style as on the side of the aft fuselage. A pattern will be developed.
RCM/klb
Randy Lutz
>
> This thread is really timely for me since I just ordered the kit and the TD
> interior set. Only one question, especially for Randy and Mark: To what scale
> of kit do your comments pertain? I note that both the Hase kit and TD detail
> set are offered in both 1/72 and 1/48; I ordered the former; are some or all of
> you talking about the latter?
>
> August
I am referring to the 1/48 offering.
Randy
Massimo Foti
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/2089
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Massimo Foti
mas...@cybernet.ch
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