Panel line detailing
Andrew Nelles
lightly darken in the lines but im not satisfied with the results. Any noe have
suggestions for me to try on my next kit?
Andrew Nelles
Charles Metz
Hello Andrew,
Appended below is an article that I first posted here a couple of years
ago. I hope that you may find it helpful.
Charles Metz
-----------------------
* Using chalk-based pastels to accentuate panel lines on (and weather)
model aircraft *
In my opinion, by far the easiest (and safest) way to accentuate panel
lines and, more generally, to "weather" aircraft is to use chalk-based
(NOT -- repeat, NOT -- oil-based) Artists' Pastels and a paper "blending
stick." [IMPORTANT NOTE: Oil-based Artists' Pastels will permanently
stain the surface of your model and can't be "feathered" properly.
Chalk-based pastels are more common, but be careful to get the right
kind.] Artists' Pastels and paper blending sticks can be purchased at
any good artists' supply shop, but sets of chalk-based Artists' Pastels
in various shades of gray and in various earth-tone colors (which are
the two color groups you'll use most in modeling) are also available by
mail-order from MicroMark (who have a web site at
http://www.MicroMark.com/index.html). The great advantages of using
Artists' Pastels are that (i) they're very easy to control and (ii) you
can remove what you've applied and start over if you screw up. The
paper "blending sticks" come in various sizes; I recommend the smallest,
which is 2 or 3 inches long and tapers to a rather sharp point, but
larger blending sticks can be useful in some situations (e.g., for
applying exhaust stains).
The basic idea is to rub the tip of the paper blending stick lightly
along a pastel stick of appropriate color and then run it lightly along
a panel line or across a smooth area you want to weather. In the former
situation, this will put pastel dust into the panel line (if it's
engraved) and will smear some on each side of the panel line; you can
then run a "Q-Tip" ("cotton bud" in the UK) along the panel line to
lightly wipe most of the pastel dust off of the surface of your model
while leaving much of it in the panel line (if it's engraved). You
should be striving for a subtle effect here, so start lightly, finish
going over the entire model, look at the results with a fresh eye a few
hours or a few days later, and only then decide whether you want to
darken the shading. You'll be able to remove most or all of the pastels
you've applied by rubbing and/or washing with water if you don't like
the affect you've achieved, but try hard not to apply too much in the
first place. After you're sure you've obtained the effect you want, you
can apply a clear coat to "fix" the pastel dust to your model if you
wish to do so. However, this isn't really necessary unless the model
will be handled where the pastels have been applied, because pastel dust
clings to some degree by itself.
Artists' Pastels also work well for exhaust stains and for "oil
blow-back" stains. To simulate oil blow-back stains that emerge from
between engine-cowling panels, use low-tack masking tape to mask the
forward panel at a panel line; use a fine paper blending stick and black
or dark-gray pastel dust to run a fine line rearward from the tape,
starting your line on the tape; and then remove the masking.
Although I rarely bother to do so, you can mix pastel colors if you wish
by scraping a bit of dust from each of two or more pastel sticks with a
knife blade, mixing thoroughly, and then applying with your paper
blending stick.
As with any new technique, you should practice before using this method
on an important model. However, pastels are very easy to apply and very
"forgiving," so you'll probably need only a little practice before you
develop a clear sense of control. Just remember: keep it subtle.
Charles Metz
Rufus
out engraved panel lines, and I like the effect - t's a bit more subtle.
But I'll agree that it works better with some colors than with others.
I'm planning a trip to an artist's supply store I know of to see if I
can get another color lead...maybe more of an umber shade.
I also have a tendancy to not fill panel lines with paint when I
airbrush...I'm thinking of trying pre-washing (pre-shading) the panel
lines on my next opportunity,
--
- Rufus
Tom Hiett
FSM had an article a few months back where they mixed Pollyscale acrylic
with water and a touch of dish soap. I mixed up one based on I think burnt
umber for my green and brown based planes and dark grey for my grey
planes. On a gloss surface, you brush into the panel lines, let it dry for
a few minutes, them remove the excess by rolling a Q-tip over it. The soap
keeps it from sticking real well to the upper surfaces but well enough to
stay in recesses where no stress is applied to it. I do another once over
to make sure I'm down to glosscoat before flatting. I really like this
method.
Tom
--
Tom Hiett e-mail: thi...@iastate.edu
Designer-Illustrator-Modeler Iowa State University
Check out my vintage race pics at:
www.public.iastate.edu/~thiett
Wayne C. Morris
andr...@aol.com (Andrew Nelles) wrote:
People have already mentioned pastel chalks, pencils, and soapy acrylics.
A few other techniques:
1) Use a fine-tip pigmented ink drawing pen to draw the lines. Check
the label; you want to see the words "pigment", "waterproof", and "fade
proof" or "light-fast". Available in different tip sizes: 005 is the
smallest, followed by 01, 02, etc. Some brands are available in
multiple colors, which are good if you want the panel lines to be more
subtle. You can find these at any good stationery, office supply, or
crafts store. Some common brands are Pigma Micron, Pilot Drawing Pen,
and Staedtler Pigment Liner.
2) Fine-tip Gundam Markers. Similar to the above, but uses an oil-based
paint. Model shops that carry Gundam kits often have these too.
3) Make a "wash" by taking some black, grey, or brown paint, thinning it
a LOT, and slapping it all over the kit. It'll run into the panel
lines. Wipe off the excess.
With the pens and markers, you can use a white eraser to remove any
ink/paint that's not in the grooves. (Make sure you rub across the
panel lines, not along them.)
Note that some of these panel line techniques work best on a gloss
finish, and others work better on a flat finish. Experiment to find
which combination works best for you. You can always apply a clear
gloss/flat coat afterwards.