So far I've soaked parts in both solutions (separately, of course) for well
over 12 hours, but there's no sign of anything coming off, even with
vigorous scrubbing with a toothbrush. About how long will it take? Or is
this one of those YMMV things?
Thanks in advance,
Hyun Yu
That's too mild, get some fume free oven cleaner, it's not as caustic
as the regular stuff, you don't even need to wear gloves and a mask
though I'd recommend you do. Spray it on and the chrome should come off
in less than an hour.
--
Mike Dougherty
Toronto, Ontario
Canada
>I'm trying to remove chrome finish from a Star Trek kit I've recently
>bought. I did my research via Dejanews, and saw that you could use various
>household chemicals. Not wanting to go for something too abrasive or
>caustic, I settled for Windex (has ammonia) and bleach (Clorox brand).
Your best bet is Strip-A-Kit. It will completely strip the chrome from the
parts, and is biodegradable too. It takes a long time to work, somewhere around
15-20 seconds... ;c)
The best part is, you can "paint" the solution onto just the parts you wish to
strip...it's easy to use, cheap, and cleanup is a snap! No messy, toxic fumes
to worry about either. Safe on your sink pipes too. For me, it's the best stuff
to come along in quite some time!
HTH,
MRLMMD:
Marty Oberman, Jr.
(Pen...@aol.com)
"There is no spoon..."
Be advised that if you use one of the yellow lemon-scented ammonias the
plastic parts may take on the yellow color. If the plastic underneath the
chrome is medium grey, it ends up being a pretty good match for Zinc
Chromate Yellow!
HTH
Thanks for the info about Strip-A-Kit. Looks like I'll have to give it a
go!
Best regards,
Hyun Yu
"Penmod" <pen...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20020406155144...@mb-fy.aol.com...
>Marty,
>
>Thanks for the info about Strip-A-Kit. Looks like I'll have to give it a
>go!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Hyun Yu
Hyun, my apologies for not supplying you with the address where it can be
obtained (although I'm sure my friend Rick Fluke will be happy to give ya the
info!):
And here's a review of SAK you may be interested in:
http://www.modelingmadness.com/ads/sak.htm
Best regards,
"Hyun Yu" <hyun...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:a8ni8q$tpbi4$1...@ID-126468.news.dfncis.de...
Thanks to all who replied!
Hyun.
"Hyun Yu" <hyun...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:a8ni8q$tpbi4$1...@ID-126468.news.dfncis.de...
Just leave parts soaked in it for a weak or two, and all You'll have to do
is just brush them easily with the soap and harder brush (hand brush, or
toothbrush) to remove any leftovers...
Worked even with gold plated AMT TIE Interceptor...
--
9A4Tc
Craig
"Hyun Yu" <hyun...@cox.net> wrote in message news:<a8ni8q$tpbi4$1...@ID-126468.news.dfncis.de>...
> and why, besides the glue not working on chrome, does one have to remove
> chrome?
Lots of reasons:
Sometimes parts aren't suppose to be chrome wind up on a chrome sprue or
chrome has been used as a cheap shortcut to represent another finish like
aluminum.
Sometimes cleaning up or modifying chromed pieces leaves unchromed
portions on a part.
Sometimes the chrome has an unnatural appearance that can be better
simulated using Alcad or other finishes.
Often parts need to be glued together, leaving seams that shouldn't exist.
These can be de-chromed, assembled and refinished.
Tom
--
Tom
> and why, besides the glue not working on chrome, does one have to remove
> chrome?
Everything Tom said plus:
Sometimes they did a bad chroming job. (My Revell new MINI... twwice)
But mostly because of bare spots left by trimming the part off the sprue.
Now that we have the marvelous Alclad II we can smooth the parts to
perfection then put on the finish that we want.
--
Thanks to the spammers, you will need to remove the hot dog in my address to send me email.