Wood finish...
J. Dennis Griffin
"wood" finish...any tips or links to tips would be great...Thanks!
--
-Dennis-
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Mike
> I'm building an Academy 1/32 Sopwith Camel and am wondering how to that
> "wood" finish.
You can buy wood grain decals but I usually just paint it. Obviously
the look you're after will determine what colours to use but for an
example I've started with a tan base, then applied a darker brown using
a not so dry brush technique, with a cheap wide stiff bristled brush, to
apply the grain. After that was dry I applied a clear orange coat to
simulate a lacquered finish that also helps to blend in the colours.
Of course scale will affect the look of the grain and there are also
different types of wood finish but I find that with minor changes the
general technique works.
--
Mike Dougherty
Toronto, Ontario
CANADA
Lee
I posted the same question about 2 years ago. For a compilation of answers I
received, check out ECPM's website at
http://www.ecpmod.com/Articles/article13.html
Lee Rouse
"J. Dennis Griffin" <den...@martinnc.com> wrote in message
news:kVmdnXQ0l62...@beachlink.com...
Michael Cuell
>
> I'm building an Academy 1/32 Sopwith Camel and am wondering how to that
> "wood" finish...any tips or links to tips would be great...Thanks!
> --
> -Dennis-
Given the size and the lines of this model, I would suggest real
wood... if you're adventurous. You can get realy thin veneers from
specialty wood shops. You could make your own wood decals. Or try a
paint technique. Me... I'd give the veneer a try, but that's me.
Regards...
Michael
Stewart Schooley
the cheaper Depression era radios were covered with "photofinish", a paper
or film imitation woodgrain. You will be amazed at how easy and cheap it is
to do and honesty, amazed at how good it looks.
http://pages.cthome.net/ptf/photofin/photoFinish.html
For smaller pieces, Prismacolor colored pencils will do the job. That isn't
covered much on the site so I will come back with more information on that.
I think you might be more interested in the method using an ink jet printer
and it is paricularly good for lighter colored woods. Follow the directions
because ink jet ink alone will fade over time unless covered with the
paint.
If you need thinner paper, the thinnest I've found is "condenser paper".
You can find suppliers by searching "indoor flying models." Another thing
I've done is using a black and white copy machine to print black woodgrain
on the shiny side of Reynolds Freezer Paper, coloring it with oil paints
and then removing the backing paper by using warm water and bleach. Rub it
on with a piece of towel. For a small piece I once cut up a teabag and used
it. Try any thin paper you have.
Nothing beats artist's oil paints for richness and depth of color, but try
what you have, it won't cost much to experiment a little. The paint has to
be thinned so that it is transparent and usually need two coats at least.
Don't use any water based paint over ink jet ink.
Its easy and it works. Give it a go!
Stewart
Stewart Schooley
information. E-mail me if I can be of help to you.
Get woodgrain patterns as directed on the webpage.
You can dampen your paper with paint thinner and start right in with the
pencils. Best way is to give the paper a thin coat of color with wood stains or
oil paint thinned down so if you miss any spots, the color will show through
and not the paper. Do pencil work on the wet stain or paint.
-Important- After the first coat, always dampen the paper on the back before
adding more pencil so you don't rub off the color you already put on. You can
use a tissue, paper towel or rag to wipe the pencil some as you go.
Prismacolor thick lead color pencils cost about a buck apiece in art supply
stores. Sanford has informed me that Prismacolor, Verithin, and Mohawk's
graining pencils are the same composition.
Buy all the browns and include a yellow brown and a reddish brown.
-Prismacolor Verithin pencil- This is the thin lead Prismacolor pencil. You
should buy a dark brown if you don't have a thin graining pencil. Use it to
touch up light spots and to accent grain lines. Have a hard surface under your
paper when accenting lines to avoid indenting the paper. Because they are
thin, Verithin pencils will not work as quickly as the thick lead Prismascolor
for coating the paper.
-Colored Pencil work must get a light spray of finish first. A heavy first
spray of finish can melt the crayon.
-Archival paper- I think copy paper under layers of finish should be permanent,
but you can use archival paper for more certainty. This paper has a higher
"rag" content which means it has more cotton in it and will be labeled Acid
Free. I see it in Staples.
This method works well for medium to dark woods. For lighter, softer grains I
prefer the oil paint method with or without some pencil work over it.
More and more, as I hear from those who want to try the DIY paper, they talk
about larger sizes. Oil paints in combination with wood stains is the best
way to do larger sizes and pencils can be used to accent grains. I find that
pencils are really necessary for accenting lines, small spots and areas when
doing burls. This is done over the paint and is very easy to do.
Stewart Schooley
but if you find something it does work on, let me know. Part of my interest in
having you try this is that you might find some variation of this method that could
benefit us all. I couldn't possibly buy every kind of paint that's out there or try
every kind of paper available.
Stewart
Stewart Schooley
RC Boater
Maybe I'm missing something, though-- will this technique work on decal
paper? As is, I don't see that wood grain paper will go down on a model
very well, because of the curves.
But again, it wouldn't be the first time I've overlooked the obvious....!
-Bill
"Stewart Schooley" <ge...@ncweb.com> wrote in message
news:3E3FD8DA...@ncweb.com...
Stewart Schooley
Let me go back to radios first. There, I was concerned with much larger areas to
cover and also needed a material that was easy to handle and glue down without
difficulty. Plus I needed a way to make subtle color adjustments to match other
areas of the radio. This method does it all really well.
For models, I know thinner paper would be needed, so I mentioned trying any thin
paper you can find. The advantage of paper is that oil paint or colored pencils
go into it and give the black lines just the right look. Also, I talked more
about the color pencils because I figured that would be the easiest way for
people to try this method and see how it works.
My modeling is still confined to balsa and I don't know all the places other
modelers might need woodgrain, but when I saw the post, I added my information
in case it might help in some situations.
As to decals, let me say most emphatically that I wouldn't touch those thicker
decal papers for ink jet printers that need a spray of acrylic. I use
Microscale's TrimFilm and their decal setting solution. With it you could get a
good woodgrain from a color copier. I would try it three different ways;
1- Print a copy of a picture of woodgrain on the decal paper.
2-Use an editing program such as PhotoDeluxe and print out a woodgrain that is
reduced in intensity about 25% and use oil paint over it to bring up the color.
This would give more protection from fading.
3-Paint the area where the decal goes lighter than you want the wood to be.
Print black woodgrain lines only on the decal and then a layer of oil color
over the black lines.
I have to go now, but I'll be back later about a way to use an ink jet printer
on decal papers that won't take ink jet ink.
Stewart
Stewart Schooley
I put a photo on the binaries showing a woodgrain decal done this way. There's
really no sense in doing this when a color copier is quicker, but here has been a
lot of posts where people say they use ink jets or want to, so here goes; Allow
for drying times.
-Cut a piece of decal paper about 2" x 3" or so and give it a spray of acrylic.
-Use Elmer's Washable School Glue-No Run Gel. You can buy it anywhere. Thin it a
little with water so you can brush or wipe an even coat on the decal paper. Don't
brush or wipe so much that you begin to lift it off.
-Tape it to the upper left hand corner of a piece of printer paper so the printing
will hit the decal.
-Print black woodgrain lines on the decal.
-Color with oil paint
-Trim and apply the decal. It will be a very thin decal.
I did this once without the acrylic spray and water got in and ruined part of the
decal.
Because the oil paint can't soak into the decal, it is better to thin it and brush
it on with a soft brush. I buy any of the womens make up brushes I see in garage
sales.
In conclusion, I'd say that if you can use thin paper to make woodgrain, go for it
first. If you want decals, go for the color copier. Use this method with the ink jet
if its the only way you can get it done.
Stewart