Ship Modeling FAQ, Part 01/15 (Contents, where to find FAQ: 10K)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part01
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
Last-modified: 28 May 1996
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 01) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The set of FAQs is, quite frankly, oriented toward access using a
"World Wide Web Browser" (e.g, Netscape, Mosaic, Internet Explorer,
etc.); reading it with such a tool you'll find "links" to other sites
of interest.
{ A note about the addresses presented. When I show:
http://www.seaways.com/faq/faqind.html
...that is interpreted as:
http:// www.seaways.com /faq/faqind.html
^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
| | |_ the path to the file
| |__ the Internet address
|___ the method - in this case, HTTP
....these are shown in this way so that people viewing this FAQ
using a World Wide Web browser -such as Netscape or Mosaic- can
simply click on these addresses to go there.
NOTE: I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
regular basis. Thus, I may not know if they "disappear". If
you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
please send me Email at: mailto:ko...@aimnet.com ; I'll check it
out and delete the reference if it's really gone. Thanks.
}
Disclaimer: My personal experience is with traditional, static wooden
ship models. Thus the answers below lean toward that aspect. PLEASE
feel free to provide me with information on other aspects (e.g.,
plastic ship models, etc.).
NOTE: New material each month is flagged with the string "*NEW*".
CONTENTS
========
(FAQ Part 01):
Table of Contents
0. Where is the FAQ?
Contributers
(FAQ Part 02):
PREPARATION
1. I don't have the patience to build a ship model (?)
2. Where do I get started in making rc model boats?
3. What is a good beginner's model kit to start with?
4. Whats the difference between "bread-and-butter", plank-on-
bulkhead, and plank-on-frame construction?
5. What's the difference between Beginner, intermediate, or
advanced Kits?
6. What experience have other modelers had with the European kits?
7. What tools do I need to get started?
(FAQ Part 03):
8. What scale should I use?
9. How does one change the scale of plans?
10. What woods are recommended?
THE HULL
11. How do I scratch-build a modern hull?
(FAQ Part 04):
12. How do I bend wood for a ship model?
13. How do I use paper templates to check the hull shape?
14. How do I cutting the bevel(s) on a bulkhead/frame of a model?
(FAQ Part 05):
15. How do you drill the mast holes in a solid-hull ship model?
DETAILS
16. Should models be painted or left natural wood?
17. I'm looking for a source of sheet copper for plating a model?
18. How is the copper applied?
19. How do you paint and mask camouflage detail?
20. Does anyone have any experience and/or tips on how to use slide
cover glass to make windows?
(FAQ Part 06):
21. How does one work with "real" scale rivets?
22. What is "lead sickness"?
RIGGING
23. What can be used for fine rigging line?
24. How does one assemble rigging?
25. How do I install ratlines?
26. Do ratlines extend beyond the futtock shrouds to the lubbers
hole? Is the futtock shroud tied directly to the main shroud.?
27. How can rigging line be made to hang naturally?
28. How do I build small blocks for model sailing ships?
OTHER STUFF...
29. What is meant by "Museum Quality" ship models?
30. Where can I find plans for the Frigate (HMS) Rose?
31. How do I get a ship model appraised (for insurance purposes)?
32. I'am looking for info or suggestings on model subs?
(FAQ Part 07):
33. Why do {your choice} cost so much?
34. Where can I get 1/72 scale coast guard decals?
35. Am modeling a Fletcher and need up to date colors etc.?
36. How do I make small, inexpensive cast plastic fittings?
37. Is CA glue reliable?
(FAQ Part 08):
38. How do I clean a model?
39. What do I use for sails?
40. What are the correct USN Camouflage Measures?
41. What is accurizing?
42. How do I Clean up Ship Decks?
43. How do I eliminate the fuzz on model rigging?
(FAQ Part 09):
100. Are there any ship modeling clubs?
(FAQ Part 10 & 11):
(FAQ Part 10):
101. Where can I find... ?
101-A. RECOMMENDED BEGINNER KITS
101-B: KITS, FITTINGS, ETC.
101-C. TOOLS
(FAQ Part 11):
101-D. LUMBER & OTHER MATERIALS
101-E. MISCELLANEOUS
101-F. SHIP MODEL and MARITIME DEALERS, APPRAISERS, BUILDERS,
CONSERVERS
(FAQ Part 12):
102. Where can I find information... ?
(FAQ Part 13):
103. What are some good books... ?
(FAQ Part 14):
104. What's available on the Internet?
(FAQ Part 15):
105. What's available on the WWW?
(The latter six questions have disjoint numbering so I won't have to
renumber frequently.)
###############################################
0. Where is the FAQ?
A: The FAQ is posted at the beginning of each month. It goes to
news:rec.models.scale. The FAQs also go to news:news.answers
and news:rec.answers, which most sites tend to keep around for
a while. They are archived at (access via FTP):
ftp://ftp.uu.net/usenet/news.answers/ship-models-faq (.ZIP files)
-or at-:
ftp://mirrors.aol.com/pub/rtfm/usenet/rec.models.scale
-or at-:
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.models.scale (.ZIP files)
-- or via WWW at:
http://www.seaways.com/faq/faqind.html *NEW*
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/ship-models-faq/
Alternative FTP sites (these tend to be old copies) are:
Europe: ftp://ftp.uni-paderborn.de/pub/FAQ/rec.models.scale
ftp://ftp.Germany.EU.net/pub/newsarchive/news.answers/ship-models-faq
ftp://ftp.sunet.se/pub/usenet/rec.models.scale
-- or via WWW at:
*NEW* href=http://www.cs.ruu.nl/wais/html/na-dir/ship-models-faq/.html
Asia: ftp://ftp.hk.super.net/mirror/faqs/ship-models-faq
E-MAIL:
------
If you do not have http or anonymous ftp access, RTFM.MIT.EDU can send
the FAQ to you via email. Send e-mail to:
mailto:MAIL-...@RTFM.MIT.EDU
...subject ignored, and the body containing:
HELP
...for instructions.
CONTRIBUTERS
============
The following people have contributed to this FAQ:
John Berg mailto:p00...@psilink.com
Mike Bishop mailto:mbish...@aol.com
William Blakely
John Beaderstadt mailto:be...@together.net
John Bonnett
John Buehler mailto:joh...@microsoft.com
Thomas Burkman Sr. mailto:BWF...@prodigy.com
Burl Burlingame
PhilCampbell mailto:pcam...@netside.com
Monica Chaban
Bev Clark
Derek Conlon mailto:der...@infobahnos.com
David Cooper
Chuck Cowman mailto:nn...@bcstec.ca.boeing.com
Simon Craven mailto:scle...@aol.com
Kerry David mailto:knd...@indirect.com
Brett Denner
Tom Dougherty
Sten Ekedahl mailto:rt...@mn.medstroms.se
Clayton A. Feldman mailto:clay...@best.com
Steve Gallacci
Ron Ginger mailto:gin...@pcm.ultranet.com
Robert Godfrey mailto:rgod...@sound.net
J. J. Gordon Jr. mailto:ma...@ix.netcom.com
David C Graf mailto:graf...@gold.tc.umn.edu
Kurt Greiner (Seaphoto) mailto:SeaP...@gnn.com
W. Hannan mailto:WHann...@aol.com
Paul & Victoria Heisner
John Huggins
Dan Johnston mailto:Dan.Jo...@nrc.ca
Steve Kennedy
Olaf Kievit
John O. Kopf mailto:ko...@aimnet.com
V.L. Kraut
Kevin Lambie mailto:ke...@gwnsys.ca
Ben Langford mailto:BEN...@aol.com
Mark Lardas mailto:MLa...@ptxecrc.com
Pete Law mailto:ll...@iu.net
Michael Long mailto:ML...@UConnVM.UConn.Edu
David Loseke
Abe Lynn
Andrew Madison mailto:mad...@nexen.com
Dave Mainwaring mailto:mainw...@cybercom.net
Bob Marek mailto:bo...@loc3.tandem.com
William Nichols
Peng F. Mok mailto:pm...@nyquist.ee.ualberta.ca
Allan "battleships!" Plumb
Tim Philp
Paolo Pizzi mailto:pi...@crl.com
Joseph W. Reyna mailto:re...@nosc.mil
RAlcorn824 mailto:ralco...@aol.com
Albert P. Rauber mailto:ara...@emory.edu
Robert Robinson mailto:rro...@astro.ge.com
SALT 6 mailto:sa...@aol.com
Staale Sannerud mailto:sst...@oslonett.no
Bob Santos mailto:San...@aol.com
Don Schmidt mailto:Don_S...@transarc.com
Septimus mailto:f...@world.std.com
Dave Seuferling
Cookie Sewell mailto:amp...@aol.com
Jack Silvia
David Shein mailto:she...@servtech.com
Don Stauffer mailto:stau...@htc.honeywell.com
Dan Sullivan
George Swierczynski mailto:gswi...@earthlink.net
Stephen Tontoni mailto:ton...@halcyon.com
Aaron Taylor
George Wallace
Jon Warneke (REDBOZO6) mailto:mont...@usit.net
David R. Wells
Mark S. Wheeler mailto:ma...@waterw.com
Dave Wilke dave...@netcom.com
Paul Wilson
Woody Vondracek mailto:cor...@nando.net
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part02
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 02) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
PREPARATION
===========
1. I don't have the patience to build a ship model (?)
A: First of all, "Patience is that attribute required to do
something you DON'T WANT TO DO!"...if you don't want to build
a model, no one will (or CAN) force you to.
However, there are a number of thing you can do to make it more
likely that your patience will be sustained for the duration of
the project:
o Have some idea what you're doing. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS (if
it's a kit). If you don't understand (and many instructions
are "opaque"), ASK someone (see the list of ship Modeling
Clubs, or ask here)!
o If you've never built a (ship) model before, start with a
SIMPLE one (see 3., below). That will help insure that
you'll finish in a reasonable amount of time, and will help
you understand the terminology (i.e., what you call the
"pointy end of the boat", and all those "sticks" and
"string").
o Build yourself a "kit". Most people start with the hull,
which is typically ~10% of the work/time required, and ~90%
of the visual effect (more than once, I've been asked by a
visitor if I've done anything to a model since they've last
seen it (6 months earlier), because I've spent the 6 months
adding details that you have to LOOK for). Instead, BUILD
SUB-ASSEMBLIES FIRST (e.g., the anchor, ship's boats,
cannon/carriages, etc.) -- these can be added to a row of
parts marching across the "mantlepiece"; every time you
look at them you see you're making progress. When you're
done, THEN assemble them into the model.
o Contact other modelers (even if not ship modelers). Even if
they are not doing the same thing you are, being able to ask
a person questions, and explaining your "tricks" is a
stimulus to get your interest up again. (John Kopf)
2. I'm interested in starting to make rc model boats and was
wondering if anyone could help me with some info about a good
starter project or perhaps a good beginners book I could use
to get going with?
A: There are several but the best advice I could provide would be
to post this question in news:rec.models.rc (that news group is
being superceeded by news:rec.models.rc.water, but is not
carried yet at all sites) where there are a bunch of RC boat
guys. (Larry Marshall)
***I can suggest several sources but first a couple of
questions:
o What sort of subject matter interests you? Tugs, Warships,
Ocean Liners, Race boats, etc.
o What sort of price range can you afford?
o How long do you want to spend building the project?
o What is your level of experience in other modeling areas?
If you can answer these I will try to steer you in the best
direction I can. (Kurt Greiner)
3. What is a good beginner's model kit to start with?
A: The following Wooden Ship Models are often recommended:
Bluejacket: Eastport Pinky, Bluenose
Model Shipways: Phantom, Katy, Sultana
A. J. Fisher: Pilot Schooner, Lark
Model Expo: Gjoa, Swift, Scottish Maid, Pinky
Note that this list does NOT contain any of the popular
European kits - these suffer from poor instructions and plans,
inadequate research, and excessive complexity for a beginner;
only a small fraction of the kits sold are ever completed.
(John Kopf)
***Most modelers enter the hobby from plastic kits. (They
migrate to sailing ships from plastic a/c or modern ships). To
many, the jump from plastic non-sailing ships to a wooden
sailing ship is too big. They become intimidated.
Some good plastic kits do exist, that are suitable as beginner
kits. These include the Heller 1:75 NINA and PINTA. (Little
jewels, although some filling is required. Also, I suspect
they are really 1:90 -- compare the hulls to the 1:100 plans in
Pastor's "Ships of Chistopher Columbus"). Don't waste time on
the Revell Columbus ships. They are useful for fittings, but
of much lower quality than the Heller kits.
Another possiblity is the Airfix 1:72 "Golden Hind." This has
more complex rigging, but simpler than say, the Revell 1:96
Constitution. If you do not mind using stretched sprue, the
Airfix "Great Western" is fun, too. The sail plan is simplified
because it is a paddle steamer, but there is enough to be fun.
I would recommend that only to an experience plastic modeler
who is a neophyte in sailing ships.
An advantage to plastic kits is that you rig them just like
the wooden kits. Rigging tends to be the biggest challenge in
a sailing ship model. Get comfortable with rigging, and going
to wood doesn't seem so scary. (Mark Lardas)
***A good point...If you're unfamiliar with ships (either
sailing OR power), an inexpensive plastic model will help you
recognize the various parts of the ships, and help begin to
familiarize you with some of the problems you'll encounter (such
as few straight lines, flat surfaces, and the need to review the
plans and instructions before you "paint your self into a corner"
by installing one part that blocks the installation of a second
part. (John Kopf)
***I recommend you obtain a wood ship model kit that comes with
an instruction book which describes the DETAILS of the prototype
vessel, or vessels of the very type you are modelling. In other
words, the plans and general instructions rarely give a novice
enough information on what the rigging details look like, or
how to reproduce them in scale.
Start out with a fishing vessel which has one or two masts,
and is not square-rigged. I have a modest library of ship
model books from the 1970s, but none of them is likely to be
of a lot of help in completing a particular model, so I won't
recommend any.
Bear in mind that experienced ship modellers often junk the
wood strips supplied in the kit and replace it with strips sawn
from very hard, fine-grained wood like maple, apple, pearwood
and boxwood.
Good quality woodworking tools tend to be lot more costly than
the tools required for plastic kits. (Septimus)
4. Whats the difference between "bread-and-butter", plank-on-
bulkhead, and plank-on-frame construction?
A: In bread-and-butter ("B&B"), successive "slices" (sawn out of
planks) of the hull (either parallel to the keel or to the
waterline) are stacked and then carved to final shape, using
templates (see Question 11 about use of templates). The
individual planks are frequently "hollowed" so that the
resulting hull is only a thick shell of wood -- this make the
hull lighter, and helps prevent cracking which might result
from a solid hull.
Plank-on-bulkhead ("POB") uses cross-wise slices of the hull
to shape "bulkheads", which are fastened to a "backbone" with
the profile of the hull; these are normally made from plywood
and are common in the European kits.
Plank-on-frame ("POF") models actual "frames", fastened to the
keel.
The latter two methods are then planked (although nothing
prevents one from planking a bread-and-butter hull). Both
methods require beveling the surfaces of the bulkheads or
frames (see Question 12 about beveling).
POB models have excessive spacing of the bulkheads to support
the planking; these are normally double-planked, so that the
first layer of planks (the "learning layer") can be sanded fair
to produce a smooth surface for the second layer (the "finish
layer"). Unfortunately, the bulkheads are often so far apart
that the planks "sag" between fastening points -- many modelers
get around this by filling in the surface between the bulkheads
with some soft wood (balsa is fine for this) and sanding this
to the shape of the hull before planking...this essentially
results in a more-or-less solid hull (like B&B, with the
bulkheads serving as built-in templates).
One side advantage of POF is that the fastenings ("trunnels")
of the planks are properly located and have a solid backing to
connect to. (John Kopf)
***I guess "plank on frame" in a strict sense would imply that
the ship is built with a hollow set of frames as opposed to a
set of massive plywood-style bulkheads, as you say. However, it
is commonly referred to as plank-on-frame whether you use
massive bulkheads or proper frames.
Proper plank-on-frame could be used if you wanted a complete
interior in the ship, or at least on the gun-decks. This is
rather hard to do with massive bulkheads. Also, I am convinced
that adding a complete internal structure with deck-beams et al
will make it easier to get the outside right - you will have
far more references to the placing of wales, gun-ports etc
(always assuming that the internal structure is put in the
right places :) It has certainly been a problem with my massive-
bulkhead Neptunus, 80.
I haven't tried building proper plank-on-frame myself, but
from what I gather it a) is a lot more work than plank-on-
bulkhead (all those frames to build and put in place), and b)
makes for a better hull shape and a more solid model. Think
about it - you would be defining the hull shape for each and
every frame, instead of just at the bulkheads, and the external
planking will be supported by an almost continuous array of
frames instead of just the occasional bulkhead.
(Staale Sannerud)
***Most of the plank-on-frame models I have seen omit the
planking on the lower hull, in order to show the detail of the
keel and futtocks and all that. I suppose you could do a fully
planked plank-on-frame model just for your own satisfaction,
but there would be little other point.
As I understand it, the actual planking process is a little
easier, because there is more material underneath the planks to
support them. However, this is more than outweighed by the
extra time and effort (not to mention material) necessary to
accurately model the frames. Unless you want to demonstrate
the construction of the original ship, you might as well go
plank-on-bulkhead. (David C Graf)
***Look at it this way. A 200' ship might have only 10
bulkheads, but 100 frames. If you were doing an admiralty
model, you would want to show all of the frames, so any
planking would be plank on frame. If you are building what
would be considered a completely finished hull, then you are
depending on the bulkheads ( as defined in the ship's lines)
to give you the hull shape.
Here is a tip for you, if you fill in the space between the
bulkheads with pieces of balsa wood, and sand them down to the
ship's lines, you have the equivalent of a solid hull to plank.
(Thomas Burkman Sr.)
***Why would anyone plank a model anyway? By that, I mean
after the hull is planked you cannot see bulkheads either.
There are at least two reasons for plank on frame that I am
aware of. One, that's the way a real ship is made, so I want
to do it that way. Two, maybe I am going to put in some
internal detail, leave hatches uncovered, etc., and don't want
to have bulkheads visible (that were not there on prototype).
With large warships this internal detail might be the guns, and
the interior is clearly visible through open ports.
I might point out that there are a number of hybrids that are
neither fish nor fowl. Some POB kits feature the bulkheads cut
back to look like frames starting at the lower gundeck.
It is also possible to build a hybrid with a solid hull up to
the lower gundeck, with frames above that, this whole structure
then planked. In this case, of course, the hull is smaller by
the dimension of the thickness of the planks from what it would
be if it were a carved hull not planked over. (Don Stauffer)
***A scale plank-on-frame model is the highest expression of
the wood modelmaker's art: The keel, stem, sternpost, frames
and ALL hull timbers are accurate scale reproductions of the
prototype vessel. In some British "Admiralty" models, the
planking was purposely left incomplete to allow the viewer to
examine the hull timbers. (Septimus)
5. What's the difference between Beginner, intermediate, or
advanced Kits?
A: This is a good question and difficult to answer. As a designer
for Model Shipways, I do not always agree with the final
category which appears in the catalog. There is naturally an
effort to categorize a model at intermediate or beginner
level - more sales! The recent Pride of Baltimore II kit was
desired as a beginners kit, I felt it an advanced kit, so we
wound up compromising at intermediate level. Here are some of
my thoughts as a designer and model builder:
Beginners -
Solid wood hull is often difficult to shape properly and it
takes some skill to fit templates and carve correctly. It would
then be an intermediate skill. However, many solid hull models
can be completed by the beginner simply by sanding it without
regard to total accuracy. Consequently, on the smaller models
with a solid hull the beginner can handle it. So, the beginner
should know something about sanding wood, and at least have the
skill to do some "pocket knife" carving.
The beginner should have some basic understanding of a ship,
knowing a deck from a mast and be able to read the plans and
instructions. If the model has rigging, the beginner should be
able to at least tie a knot to fake a seizing.
Since most models are painted, the beginner should have done
some painting with brushes and know how to make reasonably
smooth brush strokes. The beginner also needs to know a little
something about gluing parts together with white glue.
The beginner should possess the ability to stick with the
project a reasonable length of time, understanding that it
cannot be built in a hurry, and understand that a wooden model
will take a longer time and require more part making than say
compared with a plastic model where the parts are basically
complete.
Intermediate-
For solid hulls, the modeler should be able to use gouges and
chisels for removing wood and have the patience to work longer
on a large hull. For the POB hulls, the modeler should have
the skill to use a hobby knife and saw and cut parts accurately
to lines. Cutting bevels on the bulkheads and tapering planking
is important, and use of the tools is essential.
Intermediate models start to have many small parts for deck
furniture. The modeler must be able to handle and assemble
(glue) small parts together accurately and to keep them to
scale. In rigging, there will be more to do, so the modeler
must have the patience to spend the time to complete the rig.
They should have the ability to "think out" the rigging
beforehand, and also know how to push and pull lines about with
rigging tool aids.
The painting of the model is going to be more difficult. The
modeler should know how to plan painting the various parts and
proceed in an orderly fashion, so as not to work their way into
a hole.
Advanced-
Most advanced models are really just more of the same. The same
skills are required for the most part. The name of the game is
patience. The Flying Fish model from Model shipways is an
advanced project. It was always a big seller to beginners and
advanced modelers alike. From old Model Shipways, John Shedd,
I was told that it was a good seller, but less completed model.
Modelers start but never finish the model. My only thought is
that they loose patience and get bored with the project over a
very long time period. So, you must have the patience and
endurance for advanced projects.
Like the intermediate model, the advanced model has even more
rigging involved, but if you can rig a single mast you can
certainly rig two. The skill is the same. An advanced project
will require you to do more detailing and the tying of simple
knots is not likely to be satisfactory. Consequently, you
should have the skill to make seizings of lines, wraping them
with fine thread.
The advanced project will probably get you more into soldering.
The Flying Fish is a good example. There are many iron fittings.
So, you should have the skill to cut, shape, and solder small
brass parts. Sometimes, you can substitute other methods in
lieu of soldering. You should have the ability to make these
decisions and know that the result will be satisfactory.
Painting again will be difficult but should not be any more
involved than on an intermediate model. (Ben Lankford)
6. What experience have other modelers had with the European kits?
A: The following originally was with reference to an Artesania
Latina kit, but in general applies to ANY of the European kits.
(John Kopf)
***I bought a 1:48 model of the U.S.S. Charles W. Morgan (three-
masted Whaler) about 8 years ago for $180. I've been working
on it off and on over that time (with multi-year breaks of 'off'
time). Lately I've been 'on' and progress has been pretty
steady.
But during the work on the whole beast, I've been surprised at
how poor the instructions are and, despite fairly extensive
diagram sheets, how incredibly easy it is to screw up. This
was my first foray into model ships and I've obviously bitten
off a huge chunk, but it's been lots of fun. Except for the
part where I botched the stern. And the part in the bow where
the planks don't really form to the first layer of the hull.
And where the...
I doubt I'd have done a second one if I'd built something
simple. There's something epic about building this monster.
But to return to my question... Is Artesania Latina a reputable
outfit or not? And do they still exist? I'd like to talk to
them about getting some more stock for the ship (not enough
doweling for the spars). Anybody got an address on these guys?
To any fellow novices who are working on an Artesania Latina
model, here are my words of advice:
The guys who did the instructions are laughing their collective
behinds off at the thought of somebody following what they
wrote down. The order of steps is horrendous and frequently
leaves out dependencies between various pieces. Look at the
plans about 8 times, look ahead in the directions about 5 steps,
measure everything twice, dry fit it to the model a couple
times and then, only then, do it all over again before you even
think about cutting or shaping anything.
But in all honesty, the kit has been buckets of fun. I can't
imagine getting more enjoyment per dollar in any other way.
I know this much - the whales are safe from this baby...
(John Buehler)
***Like you, John, I'm working on my first Latina kit (it's
the Swift pilot boat) and I have to agree, the instructions
leave much to be desired. In my case there's no mention of when,
of even if, the keel should be attached. But you're right, by
reading the instructions thoroughly at least three times and
comparing the written word to the diagrams, you should be able
to manage.
I wanted to let the company know what I thought of its
instructions and tried to find the company on the net, but it
didn't turn up with Netscape Search.
As for spare parts, my local hobby shop is able to get
Artisania Latina parts (even for the Swift which has been
discontinued), but any quality hobby shop should carry the
dowels and the proper types of wood needed.
I've completed a couple of solid-hull wood ships this past
year and the Swift is my first attempt at planking a hull. I
have no gripe with the quality of the parts and fittings in the
Latina kit but I'm glad my first planking job is on their
beginner kit.
The company does still exist and I've recently seen their new
catalogue. The finished ships look great and I'm considering
buying their version of the Blue Nose II, but I'll wait until
I've experienced more of their Swift. I may opt for Model
Shipways version of the original Blue Nose. (Derek Conlon)
***I saw a review of Artesania's top of the line kit in an
English boat modelling magazine a couple of years ago. The ship
in question is the Spanish 74-gun San Juan de Nepomuceno, in
1:90 scale or something like that. Here are a couple of points
that I remember from the review.
The belaying pins were all out of scale, and had to be
replaced. The rigging plan was ALL wrong, and had to be
scrapped - time to dig out "Masting and Rigging" again...
The kit in itself got pretty good reviews, though. Good
materials, sensible layout and so on. I can't remember
anything about the building instructions, apart from the
rigging foul-up, but they can't have been too horrible or I
think I would have remembered.
From what the review photos showed, the Nepomuceno kit made a
pretty lovely model once it was finished - those Spaniards made
some beautiful ships back in the 1760s. (Staale Sannerud)
7. What tools do I need to get started?
A: In most all of the recent Model Shipways kits, the instruction
book lists those tools that are needed for the particular model.
However, this list has almost become boiler plate in the
instruction books I prepared. Here's a composite of my list:
A. Knives and saws
1. Hobby knife
2. No.11 blades
3. Razor saw or jeweler's saw
B. Files
Set of needle files
C. Clamps
1. A few small C-clamps
2. Wooden clothespins
3. Rubber bands, #16 and #33
D. Tool Set
A small carving tool set or individual gouges and
chisels for carving keel rabbets, tapering the stem,
or carving solid hull models.
E. Sharpening Stone
Necessary to keep tools razor sharp
F. Boring Tools
1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #80
2. 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8" drills
3. Pin vise
G. Miscellaneous
1. Tack hammer
2. Tweezers (a few)
3. Small fine pointed scissors
4. Miniature pliers
a. small round
b. flat nose
5. Bench vise (small)
6. Soldering iron or torch
a. solder
b. flux
7. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire and strip metal)
My response regarding tools was primarily for the "minimum"
needs, obviously addressing hand tools. There is also one power
tool that I keep on my minimum list, for models as well as
large woodworking projects. That is the band saw. I have never
been without one, and never will. To me it is the most useful
power tool in any shop, for fancy cuts, stripping, or just
plain cutting a piece of scrap wood in half.
For model work, a small band saw is desirable. I had been
using a large Sears saw up to a few years ago. However, I
bought a speed reducer for it, and now use it exclusively for
cutting metal. Of course, you can change the reducer, and
change the blade for wood cutting. But I'm to old for wasting
that much time. I decided to invest in a small model band saw.
Well, Micro Mark had just advertised a new Black and Decker
band saw for the modeler. I jumped at it. But boy was I
disappointed. This was a big piece of junk. I think it had
a wooden or rock gear drive. It was so noisy you could not
believe it. It was also not accurate, would not line up, and
the case and other parts pure trash. I was not happy that Micro
Mark sold such a thing. Well, maybe they got the word too,
because they soon dumped it, or maybe B&D did.
What I have now, and good old Micro Mark is selling it also,
is the new Delta 8 inch band saw. This is one dreamboat. It is
so quiet you can hardly hear it running. Very accurate and the
case and all parts are of excellent metal and machined very
well. It cuts smooth as silk. I generally use a 1/8" blade
which is very thin. You can get this saw for a song at the big
stores like Home Depot, and some mail order.
As a model band saw, cutting small stuff, I added a new plastic
laminate table on top of the metal table. Saw a slit to the
center with the blade and you have a nice table without the big
hole around the blade. (Ben Lankford)
***While I now have a pretty good stable of power tools, I have
scratchbuilt hulls using a coping saw. While a jig saw
certainly makes life easier, it is not absolutely essential. I
used thinner lifts, and these actually make shaping the hull
easier anyway, although it is more work cutting more layers.
Of course, that may require re-lofting the waterlines, but that
doesn't take more than a couple of hours.
Of course, this requires that the hull be built bread-and-
butter, but I always do that anyway. Wood gets expensive when
you want a single large block.
The thing I like about scratch building is that I can pick my
own scale, and can build any ship I want, not just the ones
that are kitted. (Don Stauffer)
***The only power tool I have is my dremel! No real workbench,
no large saws, not many tools bigger than an Exacto, I borrowed
a table saw & other tools at a friend's house to do the first
cuts on the Incomparable hull) That's why I don't scratchbuild
more than I do. Kits, even inaccurate ones, require far fewer
facilities, and far less time to make into an acceptable model.
(David R. Wells)
***The producers of model kits supply wood and metal parts for
a completed kit of average detail. A "good" kit will have plans
which allow the dedicated and experienced modeller ample scope
for adding more detail. Generally, you have to supply some
materials yourself.
I think you will add more tools and materials to your workshop
with each kit you build. (Septimus)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part03
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 03) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
8. What scale should I use?
A: Ship models have been built in various scales, from 6"=1' (the
model of the whaling bark Lagoda in the New Bedford Museum) to
1"=100' and even smaller. Obviously, the smaller the scale,
the smaller the model (and all of the details thereon); the
larger the scale, the easier it is to put in fine detail.
A "museum quality" ship model (see # 29, Part 06) generally
shows all details that will have a dimension of at least 1/16th
inch on the model.
Common scales are specified in one of two ways, either as a
pair of dimensions (e.g., 1/4 inch = 1 foot), or as a
dimensionless ratio (e.g., 1:48). The latter is probably a
better usage, since one unit on the model corresponds to *n*
units on the actual ship (no matter WHAT units are being used...
inches, feet, metric, "points", etc.; it also avoids confusion
(is a 1/16 model 1:16 or 1"=16' ?)
Probably the most important criteria is: how much room do you
have to display the model? Consider the Queen Mary -- Overall
Length = 1,019.5 ft. (310.74 m.) -- admittedly an extreme
example, and the U.S.S. Constitution ("Old Ironsides") --
length (between perpendiculars) = 175 ft.
Scale Length of model: Q.M. Constitution
1:2 6"=1' 509' 9" 87' 6"
1:3 4"=1' 339' 10" 58' 4"
1:4 3"=1' 254' 10" 43' 9"
1:6 2"=1' 169' 11" 29' 2"
1:12 1"=1' 84' 11" 14' 7"
7:96 7/8"=1' 74' 4" 12' 9"
1:16 3/4"=1' 63' 9" 10' 11"
1:24 1/2"=1" ==> 1" = 2' 42' 6" 7' 3"
1:32 3/8"=1' 31' 10" 5' 6"
1:36 1"=3' 28' 3" 4' 10"
1:48 1/4"=1' (1"=4') 21' 3" 3' 8"
1:60 1"=5' 17' 2' 11"
1:64 3/16"=1' 15' 11" 2' 9"
1:72 1"=6' 14' 2" 2' 5"
1:96 1"=8' 10' 7" 1' 10"
1:128 3/32"=1' 7' 11" 1' 4"
1:196 1/16"=1' 5' 3" 11"
1:384 1/32"=1' 2' 6" 6"
1:500 2' 4"
1:700 1' 6" 3"
1:768 1/64"=1' 1" 4" 3"
1:1000 1' 2"
1:1200 0' 10" 2"
Kits often are to a scale "that fits the box" -- I have an
ancient set of kit plans for the Normandy at 1:686 ! And, of
course, there are other, "bastard" scales (model railroad "HO"
scale is 1:87.1 ==> 3.5 mm = 1"). The "popular" scales seem to
be: 1:700 (plastic warships), 1:96 (modern ships), 1:48
(sailing ships), 1:24 & 1:12 (small boats).
*** How much space do you have to devote to your collection?
1:48, 1:96 and 1:192 are popular (but not exclusive) scales
used in maritime and naval museums in the U.S. In Europe,
Metric scales (e.g., 1:100, 1:200, etc.,) seem to dominate.
(RAlcorn824)
***I have seen various postings on the net proposing a
standard modeling scale for naval ship models, 1:700 being
too small for those of us with crappy vision, and 1:350 being
only great if you have a stadium to display your finished
models (1:500 would be great, too). Well, my humble proposal
is (no surprise) 1:600. (Joseph W. Reyna)
***To a large extent I agree. Also, most 1:700 scale ships
are waterline models. I hate them. I like working on props,
rudders, bilge keels, etc.
Most of my fleet is between 1:450 and 1:600.
Thanks to the folks on r.m.s., I've been working on more 1:600
Airfixes lately. My British collection is getting to be quite
big, and it will soon outgrow its display box.
Also, Arii makes Yamato class & Iowa class battleships in
1:600.
Keep in mind that Frog, Renwal and Nichimo also put out 1:500
scale ships. Find them if you can. Frog & Renwal are gone,
(the Frog molds are in Russia, and Revellogram has the Renwal
molds) and the Nichimos are rare.
A standard scale is exactly what is needed. Unfortunately,
the standard is now 1:700 waterline. For good, bad, or
indifferent, most of the model kits today come from the Far
East, and they are the staunchest supporters of the 1:700
standard. They aren't going to make all new molds just for us.
There aren't enough ship modelers to make it worth their
while. Similarly, Revellogram is going to continue with their
"box scale", simply because they aren't making any new ship
molds, and they get by with just re-issuing their old stuff.
As much as I would like to see a 1:500 or 1:600 full hull
standard scale, it isn't going to happen. (D. Wells)
***Ever tried Heller's 1:400? Good stuff :-) (John G. Burns)
***That depends on *what* you build. True a 1:350 battleship
may be big but a destroyer or a sub is about the size of a
1:48 airplane.
This scale is not as bad as you may believe. Here are some
dimensions for the ships that we as ship modelers need in
this scale:
USS Pennslyvania BB38 20.84" x 3.43"
USS St. Louis CL49 20.57" x "2.12"
USS Alaska CB1 30.21" x 3.13"
USS Saratoga CV3 32.17" x 3.30"
And the detail to these that someone could do would far exceed
any of these other smaller scales! (REDBOZO6)
9. How does one change the scale of plans?
A: In the past, people made do with pantographs, proportional
dividers, and basically redrew the plans by hand.
Today, people use "copiers" to scale drawings up or down. A
typical copier can enlarge or reduce a drawing by from 64% to
142%. Unfortunately, this doesn't help much if you need to
change the scale more than this amount. However, you can still
get by making partial scale changes -- for example, expanding
by 141% and then expanding the first expanded copy by another
141% gives you 1.41 x 1.41 = 1.9881; expanding it by 142%
instead gives 2.0022...either is probably close enough to 2x to
be acceptable.
When enlarging, lines tend to get broader (and "muddier") --
set the copier to "light" to help reduce this effect.
Copiers tend to "stretch" the drawing more in one direction
than the other (this is supposedly to prevent the copying of
paper money -- the resulting image won't match in change-making
machines). If you are doing multiple expansions/compressions,
try to change the orientation of the drawing each time (from
horizontal to vertical, etc.) so that the error introduced in
one operation is canceled out in the next.
If you anticipate needing multiple copies, do them all at once,
using the same batch of paper -- that way stretching or
shrinking of the paper is more likely to be uniform for all
copies than if you made copies at different times using
different lots of paper.
Finally, commercial copy shops can frequently make larger
copies, and/or bigger scale-changes with one pass. In order to
help them produce a copy of the correct size, draw a pair of
lines somewhere on your source, at right angles to one another,
and properly scaled and annotated with something like "enlarge
to 6 inches long" -- that way you won't have to explain about
the (often obscure) scale that is on the plans themselves. (If
you are using historical foreign sources, make sure what units
are actually being used -- for example, Chapman has scales in
Swedish, French, and English feet...all are different!)
(John Kopf)
*** Whatever fits, it seems. Plans I use range from 1/2" =
1' to 1/32"=1' much smaller than this becomes self defeating,
even if you are building a model to a smaller scale. (RAlcorn824)
10. What woods are recommended?
A: A large variety of woods exist...some of these are useful for
ship models:
apple - good for planking...bends easily
balsa - TOO SOFT for ship model use! (At least on
surfaces; occasionally useful for "spacers"
used internally.)
bamboo - tough, easily split; used for trunnels, etc.
basswood - soft but readily available
boxwood - the best for find detail carving
clear pine - for bread-and-butter hulls
cherry - fairly common, fine grain, somewhat brittle
degama - good for masts and spars
ebony - Black! very hard and brittle, doesn't bend
easily
holly - White! good for decking, carving
pear - works like cherry but brown instead of red,
and not brittle.
ANY wood can be stained to look like ebony using black india
ink as a stain. (John O. Kopf)
***At some point you are going to substitute the relatively
soft, weak wood strips supplied in the kit with very dense,
close-grained exotic hardwoods like pearwood, boxwood,
lancewood, and applewood. The kit producers will furnish you
with basswood because it is commercially available and not very
costly. Don't feel badly about upgrading or adding to the
materials supplied in the kit. (Septimus)
THE HULL
========
11. I have some plans I bought from Floating Drydock a few years
ago of the Montana-class battleship and Alaska-class cruiser.
I'd really love to scratchbuild these guys in the future, which
leads me to my inquiry...
None of the articles in the modelling mags show how people have
scratchbuilt their ship hulls. I'm wondering what experiences
others have had in doing it, especially what techniques work
the best for them.
A. A lot depends on the scale you're using, and on the intended
purpose. The best method for a 1:1200 waterline model is
probably carving from the solid; for a large model either
bread-and-butter, planked bulkhead, or some combination of the
two will probably serve best. (John O. Kopf)
***If you are considering building a hull for display on a
fairly large scale check the these references: Scale Ship
Modeler, June 1995, Mike Winters has an article on building a
cruiser (USS Memphis) using bread and butter method using
styrofoam insulation panel instead of wood. I have been working
on a liner at 1:192 and found this material easy to work with
and am quite satisfied with result. I modified Winters
technique, though. Try Scale Ship Modeler March/April 1995
where Jack Melody describes building the battleship USS IOWA
(1896 vintage) at 1/20, 1 inch=20 ft. using a hull made partly
of solid balsa block below waterline and bulkheads above with
balsa sheathing. (Al Rauber)
***Mine is not the approved method, but here's how I always did
it.
1) Take appropriate size chunk of wood.
2) Using saber saw, band saw, whatever's around, cut out the
basic outline of the ship.
3) Make templates from the hull sections on your plans.
4) Carve/file/sand the hull until it conforms to the templates.
OK, that's a gross oversimplification, but the basic technique
is there.
I freely admit that I did not use the bread-and-butter method.
The reason is that I worked in relatively small scales,
(1:500-1:600) and big-enough wood was readily available.
(David R. Wells)
***I seem to recall that the Nov/Dec '94 issue of Model Ship
Builder magazine had an article about scratch-building a hull
of the type you are referring to. I believe the author was a
long-time builder of static-display wooden sailing ship models
(I'm working from memory, here) and he decided to build a model
of a more modern ship as a change of pace. Some scratch builders
construct their hulls with plastic sheet, but his approach was
much like building a sailing ship model, with plywood bulkheads
and wooden strip planking. If you can find a current issue of
MSB, you can probably back-order that issue for about $6.25 or
so. (Brett Denner)
***OK, I'll chime in on this. First and foremost, you're in
real good shape with those plans. In looking at the listings
in The Floating Drydock's catalog, your Alaska plans will have
the hull sections you need for building the hull. As for the
Montana, go out and fing a copy of Dulin & Garzke's "U.S.
Battleships" (ISBN:1-55750-174-2). In the section on the
Montana's you'll find a set of hull lines for her.
Now the fun (?) part. Hull sections (HS) look like a funny
drawing of the hull with one half looking aft and one half
looking forward. On each of these halfs, there are curves
lines that are labeled with either numbers or letters. These
lines are frame references, and they'll correspond to marks
below the outboard profile (OP) view. These marks show where
each of the lines on the HS drawing are located according to
the OP.
To build from these, I use the plank on frame method. What you
want to do is to set out a keel dimensioned to the length of
the bottom of the hull on the OP. It doesn't matter the shape
right now. Next, use the HS drawing to make each of the
bulkheads shown. Now remember, you're looking at half of it,
so duplicate the left (or right) side for each bulkhead.
Number each bulkhead as you make them so that you can keep
track of them. Next. mark the positions of the bulkheads from
the OP on to the keel piece. Attach the bulkheads to the keel
at the proper places, and you'll have the frame of the ship.
Once you have the frame, the next thing to do is to start
placing planking on the outside of it. Use relatively small
pieces to do this, and don't worry about making them fit
exactly since you'll eventually sand them smooth. Once all of
the planking is in place, sand out the rough parts and joints,
and you'll have your scratch hull.
Two words of warning. First, when you're at the point of
attaching the bulkheads to the keel, it'll be very delicate.
But if you break off one of the bulkheads, just glue it back.
Second, make sure that you allow for the width on material
you're using. I use .06" plastic for my hulls, so when I
measure out a bulkhead, I've got my calculator programmed to
automatically subtract .12" from the overall calculation.
(REDBOZO6)
***I can't say which works best, but a long time ship modeller
locally builds his hulls from 1/2" basswood planks. The planks
are first cut to shape to match the widest part of the hull
section, and once all of the layers are glued together the hull
is sanded to shape by removing the "steps" in the planks. He
notes you have to be quite careful not to create convex/concave
surfaces doing this...
***Since many modern ships have a relatively square cross-
section for much of their length, a combination of bread-and-
butter for the ends and planked bulkheads for the center work
relatively well. When I've done this, I start with a plank
cut to the shape of the lowest waterline. The severely curved
ends are build up as bread-and-butter sub-assemblies. The
"central" portion of each is rabbeted for the ends of the
planks. These ends are fastened to the bottom plank. The
intermediate stations are drawn onto plywood, allowing for the
thickness of the planking (I don't use a central "backbone",
although I have seen others use a "box-beam" here - that's
simply a long plywood box that the bulkheads slid onto -- very
rigid and torsion-resistant!).
Also allow for a thick strip at the sheer (and, if the curving
of the bilge is extensive, I also allow for a block there).
The bulkheads are glued to the bottom plank in the appropriate
locations, and the shear strip (and bilge blocks, if used)
are installed. Planking the remainder is now easy, as the planks
will all be relatively straight. (John O. Kopf)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part04
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 04) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
12. How do I bend wood for a ship model?
A: The best method to use depends upon the dimensions of the stock,
and on the degree of bending required. In general, wood
*should* be pre-bent; if it is simply "wrapped" onto the model
the resulting tension can easily tear the model apart after a
few years. Instead, use one the methods listed below to pre-
shape the wood; fasten it after it has "set" and holds the
shape by itself.
First of all, you'll have better luck if you chose your stock
so that the grain runs lengthwise (I've frequently found
commercial strips to be severly cross-grained at some point,
perhaps with the grain running as much as 45 degrees to the
length -- this is often because the strip was cut from a board
near a knot).
A thick or complicated shape may be easiest to form by carving
it from the solid -- perhaps laminating the solid from a number
of pieces so the grain tends to follow the final curve (I use
this technique for sailing ship head-rails, which can be a half-
circle in some cases).
You can also laminate a piece from a number of thinner pieces
bent to a former -- the thinner the individual wood pieces, the
easier they are to bend, an the necesary thickness is achieved
by gluing these side-to-side over a form...the result will hold
it's shape when it's removed from the form. (This method is
frequently used to make "mast hoops" by wrapping a glue-coated
plane-shaving around a waxed dowel and then slicing off the
hoops when it has dried.)
Wood can also be bent more easily if it is wet or hot or both.
Simply soaking a strip in water will make it more pliable. If
you then bend it to shape, and let it dry out it will "spring"
back only a small amount. Hot water works better than cold.
Wood is a "plastic" material, and thus can be deformed under
heat or as a result of chemical softening.
Many people use household ammonia for this purpose (instead of
soaking in water) -- if you can bear the smell. It may also
discolor some woods.
You can also hold the strip over a kettle and steam it. The
trouble with this is that thin strips cool off so fast that
you'll end up working with cold, wet wood by the time you get
it in place.
For reasonably thick work, such as deck beams, I've had some
success either wrapping the stock in wet rags, or floating it
in a dish of water, and then microwaving it for about a minute.
It's relatively easy to wrap planks around a hull. it's much
harder to bend them sideways (i.e., give them an "edge-set").
For some places where I need a plank bent edge-wise (e.g.,
railings), I find it easier to take a WIDE piece of stock whose
thickness is the final width, and bend this piece to shape. I
then saw curved planks from the edge.
Do not use these methods on multi-layer board (e.g., plywood).
Water soaks the glue and causes the board to warp or split.
The best way to bend boards is to score the "inside" curve and
build a jig.
You can also get a good job with the plank-forming pliers and
bending jig from Micro-Mark. Jig is adjustable. Using a plank
bender without heating or soaking the wood will likely just
fracture the wood.
(This includes suggestions from: Chris Maxfield, Clayton A.
Feldman, Rich Gortatowsky, Ron Ginger, Trevor Farrell,
PKAeronaut, Jack Silvia, and Keath Wong.)
MORE---
***In bending planks, I use an old soldering iron I got over
twenty years ago.
It no longer has a label, so I don't know what the wattage is,
but the barrel that holds the nib is about 3/4 of an inch in
diameter and the nib is about 1/2 inch, and I suspect it runs
about 40 watts. I think it might have been used for automotive
body work, but don't know for sure. Scrounge the yard sales
and flea markets...
I find it works better than a plank bender, because a plank
bender, at least the ones I've seen, works the arc in the plank
while holding the plane of the width of the plank constant.
This gives you a nice curve for a plank that would lie on the
hull all in a horizontal plane, but hull planks usually sweep
up in addition to curving toward the bow and stern. With the
soldering iron, I can form both curves at the same time.
Here's the steps I go through:
1 - Cut the bow and stern taper in 4 planks, leaving them about
4 inches (2 on each end) longer than they need to be on the
hull. You use the extra to give you something to hold onto
while you bend them and install them. Cut them in pairs, one
for each side of the hull.
2 - Float them in a soaking tray, (a piece of 4" or 6" pvc
capped on both ends, then cut longitudinally in half works
well for this) for about a half hour. Flip the planks over
and soak for about 15 minutes more. Pay attention to which
planks form a pair. Plain, warm water works fine. For some
woods adding ammonia helps, for others it makes them more
brittle.
3 - While you're waiting, cut two more planks and set them
aside, clamp the soldering iron in a bench vice (by the handle)
so its sticking straight up, and plug it in to heat.
4 - Work the flat of a plank against the side of the nib holder
of the soldering iron, stretching it and pulling it into shape.
For one side of the hull, use the side of the iron opposite to
you and pull the bend toward you and up, for the other, use the
side nearest you and work the bend away from you and up.
Remember that the bends need to be mirror images of one
another. Work fairly quickly, and pay attention to how dry
the wood is getting. If it dries out completely, it will
discolor or burn. Feel free to dunk it into the water if it
does begin to dry out too much. What you're doing is making
steam that penetrates the wood, pulling it into shape, and
cooking the water back out again.
5 - Once you have it close to shape, you can install it on
the hull.
6 - Between installing the first and second planks, put two
more into the soaking tray, and cut two more and set them
aside. Installing two planks, while two planks are new in
the soak tray, seems to work well relative to the timing of
the soak. Just keep track of which are new. You should
have 4 in the tray all the time you're working.
7 - I've been using a cryo based glue (Krazy glue, wood &
leather) as my working glue, and it doesn't seem to care if
there is still a little moisture in the wood. A day later, I
reinforce the joints between the bulkheads and planks with
carpenters (elmer's yellow) for as many strakes as I can reach
before the sides meet the deck. I've got two hulls I did
in 1986 that don't show any signs of separating, even at the
strakes that are held only by cryo, but who knows how they'll
look 100 years from now. I also 'nail' my hulls though, so
that may also be helping to hold them together.
8 - Keep repeating the process from step 4 until you get bored
or tired. Then call it quits. When you do, clamp the keel
into a keel clamp to make sure it doesn't bend while the wood
finishes drying.
Note: The important message here is work one plank on each
side of the hull at a time, even if you're doing the second
layer of a double planked hull. Once the planks are fastened
to the bulkheads or inner hull, their environment is different
from wherever you were storing them. They change shape and
try to straighten back out. Wood is an imperfect medium, so
you can't control the shape change. Working port, then
starboard, with the help of a keel clamp, tends to average
the stresses out by the time you reach the gunnels. You can
hide a slightly bent keel, when the distortion is side to side,
when you mount the model, but if you hog the hull, there's no
way to hide it.
Note 2 (for beginners): A keel clamp is fairly easy to make.
Get some oak flooring, 2" wide and longer then your hull
length, and drill holes about 1/2 of an inch from one edge, so
you can put 1/4-20 bolts through and clamp the boards together.
Slip your keel in along the oposite edge, between the oak
boards. Tighten the nuts down and let it sit overnight. If
you want to get fancy, and have a much easier time rigging,
you can rig a stand to one side of the clamp so you can hold
the finished hull in a bench vice while you're doing the deck
houses and rigging.
***Another easy way is to heat up an old style electric
soldering iron, clamp it vertically in a vise, and bend your
hot water soaked planking strips around it, moving the strip
slowly into the curve you need with second or two of contact
at each mm along the way. Experiment with a bit of scrap to
determine the correct contact time for bending and before
scorching. (Clayton A. Feldman, MD)
***This method can certainly be used - but you had better not
try to use the soldering iron for soldering afterwards! I found
that my iron was covered with a sooty residue after bending
planks (of course, the iron may have been too hot. An iron on
which you could regulate the temperature would be the best for
the purpose.)
Anyway, the point is that wood can be bent using heat, and
water will keep it from scorching. You can also use live steam
to bend planks, as a lot of modellers do, but it would involve
a bit of gear (heater, water container etc) and I guess you
could easily get burnt. What I like about the water/candle
method is that it doesn't involve a lot of equipment - and you
don't have to have an electrical outlet within arm's reach.
(Staale Sannerud)
***I just use the 100w light bulb on my bench lamp...it's
plenty hot for stripwood. (John Kopf)
***I used to attend the very active Alberta Ship Modellers'
Society meetings and the modellers have two methods.
1. Use a (.5in or .75in dia) copper pipe to contain the plank
strips and run live steam from a kettle through the pipe. Pin
planks to hull formers until dry then glue.
2. Soak the planks in laundry ammonia to soften them. You will
have to do this in the garage or outdoors on account of the
stink. (Peng F. Mok)
***I find that the candle-and-water technique I have mentioned
earlier on this group works well - I basically first bend the
planks one way for sheer and then bend it the other way to lie
against the frames - it takes time, though:)
I would guess that any bending technique can be applied in
this manner: First sheer, and then the other way. If you use
steam, I guess the whole plank will become wet and flexible -
pin it in place while it dries and it should fit pretty well
when it dries! Anyway. the important thing is to make the
plank fit naturally in place, so the pins and glue don't have
to force it to keep in place!
Different woods behave differently, too. I used obeche for
wales on my Neptunus model (80 guns, 1789) and I found that it
was much easier to bend and handle than pine, not to mention
balsa. If the planks on the Golden Hind won't behave, you might
consider bying planks of a different wood and using them
instead - it is available if you know where to look.
(Staale Sannerud)
***Several years ago Philips made a travel steamer; a small
hand held container which you fill with water. Plug it in and
steam comes out of a row of small holes. The steam issued at a
high temperature and with a bit of pressure. The purpose of
the device was to steam the wrinkles out of clothing when
traveling.
I found that the row of steam holes was just right for ship
model planks. A few moments in front of the device and you can
bend a plank to fit any stern curve. Hold the curve until the
wood cools, let the plank dry, and then glue it in.
There must be similar units on the market now. (Dan Johnston)
13. I am building a solid hull ship; the kit comes with paper
cut-out templates to check the hull shape.
Will these paper templates suffice to check out the shape or
is it intended that one should use the templates to cut out
balsa templates?
A: Typically, the paper templates are too flimsy to use to
accurately verify the shape of the hull. It is better to copy
their pattern to a stiffer cardboard or poster board. You can
also use these patterns to make a stand to keep your model in
while you work on it, and also to make a nice permanent stand
for the finished model.
Ideally, getting a copy of the original ships plans, and
creating patterns from the ships lines is the best. Many people
abandon the solid hull that came with the kit, and create their
own plank-on-frame/plank-on-bulkhead hull (deviating from the
kit in an attempt to create a more accurate/appealing model is
quite a common practice among ship modelers). (Monica Chaban)
***I usually mount paper templates on some sort of card stock,
adding stripwood as needed to stiffen the body.
( Kurt (Seaphoto) )
***IMHO stiff white cardboard has the minimal stiffness and
durability for hull templates. Mattboard found in art supply
shops for matting pictures would be ideal.
You would, for example, fix the printed template patterns to
the mattboard with rubber cement (not water-based glue) and
cut as close to the line as you dare with a fine fretsaw or
power jigsaw, then clean it up with sandpaper to the line.
Some hull section diagrams are printed in such a way that you
might need the additional step of tracing them with high
quality tracing paper (also from your art supply shop) and
then cementing the traced pattern onto cardboard. (Septimus)
***...good quality card (file folder stock, etc.) stock (or
thin sheet styrene, or even metal, such as stock from aluminum
soda cans), and trim that to shape.
A good idea is to block up the hull so the waterline *or* keel
is level, and then cut a "tab" on the pattern so it can sit
using the table as a reference plane...that's more work, but
it's also more accurate than trying to fit the pattern to the
hull at the keel and shear line only. (John Kopf)
***Even better for templates is 1/64" thick aircraft ply. The
rubber cement and cut-pout process is just as described above.
It's very durable. (Clay Feldman)
***Regardless, Use something with a bit more stiffness than
paper. Even 'shirt cardboard' works. The pointer about adding
'tabs' which would permit setting all to a horizontal waterline
is very useful. Try to keep the working edge of the template
as thin as possible while retaining the necessary rigidity.
(RAIcorn824)
***...The plywood works great as it is strong and stiff. The
balsa has a tendancy to be soft when pressed against the hull
to check on dimensions. (David Loseke)
***If you're transferring the pattern to thim aircraft plywood,
make a Xerox, lay it face down on the wood and wipe the back
with gasoline or another serious thinner in a rag. (Don't
smoke while you're doing this.) The right amount of soaking
and pressure will transfer the Xerox powder to the wood.
(Burl Burlingame)
***don't use gasoline for anything except motor fuel. A
friend of my sons was burned to death while cleaning dirt bike
parts in a can of gasoline. The spark that ignited the vapor
was over 20 feet away.
A safer method is to heat transfer it. Place the paper on the
wood, with the toner against the wood and iron it with a normal
clothes iron, set to a high temp. Hold the iron on for a few
seconds, then peel the paper off.
Sometimes this will cause the wood to develop a curve - if you
heat only one side of it, so also iron the back side of the
wood and it will flatten out.
There are special toners made to transfer eaisly, but the
standard stuff of a copy machine or laser printer works fine.
(Ron Ginger)
***Actually, ball-point pen works well too...put your drawing
ink-side down onto the wood and iron the ink into it.
(John Kopf)
14. I'm a little mystified by the process of cutting the bevel(s)
on a bulkhead or frame of a wooden ship model?
A: Good plans will have three views -- the "plan" (top view),
profile (side), and "section" (slices through the hull
perpendicular to the other two).
From the section view, trace the horizontal and vertical lines
that correspond to the water- and "buttock" lines.
On the plan and profile views, draw a pair of lines that
correspond to the front and back edge of the bulkhead or frame.
Using dividers, transfer each intersection between the drawn
lines and the water lines and buttock lines to the drawing;
fair these up with a smooth curve. You'll now have a single
drawing of the bulkhead showing BOTH the front and back edges.
Glue this to the wood, and saw to the outside line. Now bevel
from the back (*outside*) to the front at the *inner* line --
the bevels are now complete, and it can be put into place.
(John Kopf)
***Yes, several methods are available.. First, obtain a copy
of Underhill's book "Plank on Frame Models", volume 1.
Second, get / buy / make about a dozen 'battens' approximately
10% or even 15% longer than the hull oength. Take the first
batten (actually a pair) tack one end to the stem and the other
to the stern, "wherever it fits", providing the midships
section was parallel to your datum line. Take note of the
difference in contact with the 'frame' (actually bulkhead).
Now divide the spaces and insert additional battens. In a very
short time, you will see a pattern developing - the side of the
frame closest to the maximum hull dimension will show maximum
contact with the batten, and there will be a gap fore or aft.
At this point you have a couple of choices: shave down the high
spots on the bulkheads or build up the low spots. (Either will
be a compromise!) What you are shooting for is a batten (or
fairing strip, or whatever you choose to call it) making *solid
contact* along the 'face' of each bulkhead the entire length of
the vessel. In any case, with the exception of the 'dead flat'
(read more about lofting if the term is unknown), the edge
surfaces of the bulkheads should never be parallel to the
longitudinal axis of the vessel (unless you are building a coal
or garbage barge). Repeating myself, but Underhill's book
provides probably the most lucid description ever written for
modellers on how to cope with the thickness of frames/bulkheads.
(RAIcorn824)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part05
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 05) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
15. How do you drill the mast holes in a solid-hull ship model?
A: There are several ways you can try.
For the mast holes, you could jig up the hull so it's
perpendicular side-wise and inclined to the mast angle, and
drill the holes using drill-press (assuming you have access to
one).
A second possibility is to recognize that a drill will tend to
follow a smaller hole, and a small hole is easier to drill and
align -- make one template with short "legs" that will sit on
the deck and has a center-line drawn on it; make a second
"triangle" for the angle between the mast and the deck (NOT the
base). Use these to drill the "Pilot hole" for the mast, and
then drill it out to size using successively larger drills.
A third possibility recognizes that the real ship did not have a
"tight" hole for the mast to go through - they made the hole
over-size and then used wedges between the sides of the hole and
the mast to move the mast into position. You can do the same
thing by drilling a small hole and making a "stub peg" on the
bottom of the mast, and then enlarging the upper portion of the
hole so that the mast is a "rattling" fit to it. The peg will
then locate the bottom of the mast, and wedges can be used to
bring the mast - at the deck level - to the correct position.
The "mast coat" will hide these. The bowsprite is a different
problem. Much depends on whether the bowsprite heel is "buried"
in the hull, or rests on the deck. If the latter, simply drill
a small hole and enlarge it with a rat-tail file. If the
former, you might want to consider either drilling a series of
increasingly larger holes as in method 2 for the mast, or making
the final hole undersize, and then trimming the heel of the
bowsprit to fit. (John Kopf)
***Drilling oversized holes is closer to the real way of doing
things than is a tight fit, at least for American built ships.
Charles G. Davis describes the setting of a mast in "The Ship
Model Builder's Assistant" speaking to the hole being larger
than the mast, the bottom of the mast from the step to a little
above the deck being cut to an octagonal shape, and wedges
being hammered in between the mast and the edges of the hole to
stabilize the mast in the hole. ( The mast also had a tenon in
its foot that fit into a mortice in the mast step, also for
stability). The hole and mast was then fit with a skirt of
sail cloth and lead sheathing at deck level to seal it against
the weather. Ergo, you can really screw up drilling the hole
and claim it was for "historical accuracy".
In model building though, you usually can't get at the part of
the mast below the deck to insure that it's held by more than
just the deck, so the usual plank on bulkhead builders method
is to put a solid block between the bulkheads where the mast
goes through and rely on a pretty snug fit between the hole
drilled through the deck and block to hold the mast. Given I'm
too chicken to do it "the real way", absolutely the best method
I've come up with for dealing with the setting of the masts is
as follows:
(1) Build a wooden box with open tops and ends that is about
as long as the hull and at least as high as the widest part of
the ship's sides are when sitting on her keel. The unassembled
bottom should be a couple inches wider than the widest part of
the hull since the sides will be mounted on top of the bottom.
(2) Tack some battens on the bottom of the box to receive the
keel, one batten on each side of the keel, snug enough
together so the keel fits between them, but can't walk around
on you.
(3) Put the ship into the slot for the keel, then glue the
sides of the box on so that they sandwich the hull in, and in
an attitude that is plumb to an imaginary vertical line drawn
through the center of the deck and keel. A round bubble level
like is used for leveling kitchen applicances, bridged up on a
couple of pieces of strake stock set equal distance from the
center line of the deck helps if your eye isn't good enough.
Also slide a block of wood under one end of the box to help
center the bubble fore and aft if the drag of the keel keeps
the bubble too far off center. I put the sides on dry, then
tack them with super glue when I have them where I want them.
(4) If too little of the sides of the hull touch the sides of
the box to stabilize it, put some wedges in between the hull
and the box sides, out toward the stem and stern. The whole
point is to get the hull stabilized and plumb, port to
starboard. Once in the box, the hull shouldn't move at all.
(5) Buy a drill press. I kid you not. A passable drill press
can be bought from one of the chain "Builders Square" type of
store for less money than a decent (and not so) ship kit costs,
and certainly cheaper than a fully scratch built hull
calculated at minimum wage. And you can do lots of other stuff
besides setting masts, like small turnings, with it if you
have enough imagination and some sharp wood carvers chisels.
(6) Use a soft pencil with a good point to mark a cross where
the center of each mast should be on deck and an awl to dimple
the deck at the mast hole centers. Check your references,
Davis is good, because masts are not usually evenly spaced,
and if you set them up like pickets in a fence, the end result
may not be worth the effort. If the plans are good, I trace
the deck and mark the mast positions on a piece of mylar, then
cut it out so it fits inside the bulwarks. Makes it easy to
transfer the center point of the masts with an awl.
(7) Also check your plans for the amount of rake each mast
will have relative to a straight line drawn to the average
fore and aft line of the deck (your base line). Typically,
the rake increases as you move aft, and starting with a slight
exageration to the rake is usually a good idea since the stays
will draw them forward if you follow the usual sequence of
setting the standing rigging from the bow working aft. A
protractor based on the deck base line of the plans at the
base of the mast and read on the center line of the mast will
give you the right reading. I've gotten reasonably good
results, at 1:36 and 1:50 scale, by adding one degree to the
measurement I took off the plans. If you really want to get
picky, the rake should probably be measured from the waterline,
particularly if you're working from a table, rather than plans,
but I've gotten by with a somewhat arbitrary base line.
(8) Set the boxed hull on the drill press table and tilt the
table until the deck is level, fore and aft. The bubble level
helps here too, but make sure you put it on the deck at a
place where your base line and the deck are parallel. Record
the measurement on the protractor of the drill press at this
point. This is your base angle for the masts. Note: If you
took your angles from the waterline, you have to adjust for
the difference in angle between the waterline and the base
line.
(9) Add the rake of the foremast to your base angle and adjust
the tilt of the table accordingly. Make sure the adjustment
moves the bow in the right direction for the rake you're
trying to get in the mast.
(10) Clamp a fence to the table top so that when the box is
pushed against it, the drill bit hits the center line of the
deck and the center line is square across the table. If
you're off on this, the resulting angle of the hole will also
be off.
(11) Using a drill bit approximately 1/3 the diameter of the
final hole, and with the drill press set at a slow speed,
drill the center of the foremast hole. Before you touch the
drill bit to the deck, turn the drill on and look at how the
bit is turning. If there's any wobble at all to the drill,
reset or replace it.
(12) Stick a dowel into the hole and see how it looks. This
is your last chance before you blow the whole exercise. Make
sure you check both perspectives, fore and aft rake when
viewed from the side, and plumb when viewed from the bow and
stern. If the bow/stern perspective is off, there's something
wrong with the set of the hull in the box, your fence isn't
square to the table, or there's something seriously wrong with
your drill press.
(13) Work the size of the hole up to the final size with a
drill 2/3 then 3/3 the final size. If the first or second
hole shows some splintering of the deck planks, buy a new
drill bit and/or tape a square of masking tape over the hole
before you move up to the next sized drill. A shredded deck
doesn't add a whole lot to the finished product.
(14) Move on to the next mast hole, keeping in mind that your
measurements of the angle of rake is relative to the base
line, not the last place you had the drill press table set to.
I've been trying to sort out a clamping jig that I could
substitute for the wooden box, but haven't sat down and really
tried to work it out. The box goes together in five minutes so
the incentive hasn't really been there, and the left over box
makes great kindling for my wood furnace.
Also, any legend that has a better method, or is willing to
let the rest of us in on how this might be done without
investing in a drill press, go for it.
Also 2, are the tables published by Davis on rake of mast
really relative to water line or have I missed something in my
reading? (Jsi...@aol.com)
*NEW* ***I built the "Swift" years ago. It was my first plank on
frame effort. What I did wasn't even close to what Don
described, except that I did use a drill. I used a cardboard
template to guide an extremely long 3/16" bit to drill the pilot
hole. The template was cut to the fore/aft angle, the port/
starboard angle was held by eye. I put the hull, minus deck
cabins, into a vise and leveled it. Using the template to
describe the right angle I gently drilled the pilot hole to the
proper depth. I then made sure that this hole did in fact have
the right angles by sticking 3/16 dowel in the hole and
measuring. Seeing this gave me the angles I was looking for, I
increased the drill bit dia. to 1/4" and "reamed" the hole
larger. I then went to the drill bit closest to the mast dia.
and made my final cut. Very acceptable results! (Michael Long)
DETAILS
=======
16. Should models be painted or left natural wood?
A: Indeed, it is an artistic decision that must be made by the
builder. In the same category is whether to paint brass parts.
Very, very few parts on a real ship were brass (bronze, maybe,
but not brass). So, one thing to consider would be consistancy.
Not painting because of the beauty of the construction material
may say no paint on either wood or brass parts.
This is one advantage of building older ships. Many older
merchant ships, and warships earlier than mid seventeenth
century were painted only in a few areas, oiled on top, and
various tallow mixtures applied below the waterline (that stuff
is really ugly if scale!). A similar "artistic choice" is how
to depict rigging. Many modelers do not add sails for two
reasons. One, it is hard to make good sails, second, some feel
the sails hide some of the detail. Yet, the running rigging
adds much detail to ship. So, many people display (particularly
on warships) model with yards raised and much running rigging
displayed, but no sails. Actually, there may have been times
when this was done for a review or special ceremony, but was not
normal. (Don Stauffer)
17. I'm looking for a source of sheet copper about .001 or .002 to
plate the hull a ship model?
A: Call up your local auto parts store (NOT the fuzzy dice dealer
chains) and get a price on shim stock. You should be able to
find it in just about any thickness you want, but it won't be
cheap (sheet copper never is). {mailto:cali...@crl.com}
***Another possibility: Bare Metal Foil - has added copper to
their line of adhesive backed foils. These foils are amazingly
thin - you'll have to have the plastic/wood as smooth as you
want the metal surface to be, but its probably a lot easier to
work than even .001 shim stock. Look for ads for Bare Metal in
your favorite hobby mag. (Don Schmidt)
***Ask your dealer to order you a sheet of Bare-Metal Foil,
Co.'s Copper Foil. It measures 6"x12" and works WONDERFULLY for
coating the hull. (I recommend ordering one sheet (which runs
$6-$8) so that you can try it before you go all the way.) It
usually takes 3 to 4 sheets to cover the entire bottom.
However, I put it on my U.S.S. Constitution and it make all the
difference in the world. It is "wafer" thin, so all of the
surface details on the plastic show up.
BTW, if your supplier can't order it, and you can't get it
through mail order, their address is:
Bare Metal Foil, Co.
P.O. Box 82
Farmington, MI 48332
(William Blakely)
***I've used copper sheathing tape, which is extremely thin and
comes in 1/4 and 5/16 inch widths. If you can't find it, Model
Expo sells it in 15 ft. coils for about $5. Works fine.
(William Nichols)
***Stores that deal in stained glass supplies carry a copper
foil tape in various widths and thicknesses. Already has
adhesive, so just cut to length, peel off the backing, and
apply. (John Kopf)
18. How is the copper applied? I'm about to copper my first ship
and have some questions:
1. What is the best glue to use on the plates
2. How to I age the plates. I wants to make the coppering
look old rather than shiny
3. Do I copper from the waterline down or the keel up (ship
is British circa 1800
A. According to Harold Underhill's "Plank On Frame Models", the
copper was supplied in sheets 48" long and 15-18" wide. It was
laid brick-work fashion, in three "goring belts", with each
piece overlapping the ones below and theone aft. The objective
was to conserve metal, NOT to look pretty.
On a model, coppering looks best if the nail pattern is
somehow embossed into the individual plates -- un-embossed
plates are visually much less interesting. The coppering also
hides the planks, which frankly looks more interesting than the
plating will.
The first step is to apply the copper to the stem, keel, and
sternpost, "running length-wise along them, the side sheets
being turned down round the outer faces...all of which were
then covered by a wrapper plate extending down the front of the
stem, along the length of the keel, and up the aft side of the
sternpost, put on in 4' sections of course".
Next, successive rows of copper are applied parallel to the
keel and running up the stem and sternpost until about half way
up to the waterline.
From the top of the belt at the bow and stern run a fair
batten around the bilge, and mark this line on the hull.
Continue the first belt up to this line, cutting the individual
plates along this line as necessary.
Lay out a second line parallel and below the waterline, two
strips wide (three wide for larger ships).
Begin the second belt as before, starting at the top of the
lower belt but with the individual plates full size. Continue
this up until the top row the plates as necessary at this line.
Finally, install the two (or three) upper rows to form the
third goring belt ending at the waterline.
You will now have three "belts" of plating; the first at the
bottom, the second above "cutting off" the lower belt, and the
third (top) belt again "cutting off" the middle belt.
(John Kopf)
***I use contact cement, particularly Walther's Goo (available
wherever model railroading is sold). I have never had a plate
fall off of this.
Are you starting with individual plates or a whole sheet of
copper. A good way to start making the copper look different
is by heating each individual plate with a propane torch (or
similar device). The plate will discolor and each one will
appear different.
Some washes of white and green over the copper after it is on
the ship will go along way to making it look weathered. Apply
the washes in a downward motion so it streaks from top to
bottom.
Copper the keel, stem, and stern first. Then copper from the
waterline down, fore to aft. Make sure you overlap the plates
slightly. (Dave Loseke)
***I don't know about putting the plates on or which way to go,
but for the weathering, The following worked on a plastic model
with a Copper Metalizer paint. I filled a container with warm
salt water. It must be big enough to set the model in up to the
water line, and I used table salt. I then placed the model in
the salt water up to the waterline. It sat in the water for
about 3 minutes. The model was hung over the bathtub and
allowed to drip dry stern down. This was repeated every other
day for one week. When finished, the hull had been dipped 4
times. I mounted it to the base and continued with the
construction of the deck fittings, masts and rigging. This
took appx 90 days to finish, working about 4 to 5 evemings a
week. By the time I had completed the model, the natural
oxidation of the saltwater on the copper finish had produced a
very worn and greenish looking lower hull. The chemical action
had apparently stopped working by the time I finished the
model, as I did not notice any further color shifts over the
following two years that I had the model in my possition.
(John Huggins)
***why do modelers want to make a copper hull green? did you
ever see a copper hull? When it is new and first done it is of
course copper color. So if you want your model to look new,
leave it copper.
On the other hand, if the ship has been in salt water, and you
remove it, it is a very bright copper color. It only turns
green after its been hauled out and exposed to air for a long
time. An active ship, with a copper bottom has a bright shiney
copper color.
A ship out of the water, high and dry, like maybe CUTTY SARK
will be green. and old model, not properly cared for will be
green. (Ron Ginger)
***I was going to recommend Bare Metal's Copper Foil as well,
but I didn't know if it would work due to the fact that
everything sheet of foil I've seen except for the chrome finish,
is somewhat wrinkled all over, and I don't know if it will lend
itself to chemical weathering, I don't ship model, however, I
liked the propane torch, and salt water tips, very clever.
However, there is a product available (somewhere) that
'antiques' copper to a streaky black finish. I used it in Jr.
High School years ago to age a copper sheet that had been 'awl
punched' with a design. This stuff smells like rotten eggs, and
for some reason, I think it contains ammonia, and possibly
sulfur. (David Cooper)
19. How do you paint and mask camouflage detail?
Okay: How do you do it? I can see that once I assemble my
1/350 DD, BB, and CVE and add all the details, adding the
camouflage measures will be very difficult. How do you mask
fine photo-etched details without breaking them? Is it
necessary to cave in and use a brush (which will reach around
some of the obstructions)? I am a new air-brush user trying to
plan ahead, and I'm darned if I can see how it's done. I want
to add three- and four-colored 1944 camouflage measures to a
Fletcher DD and a Casablanca CVE but I cannot see how to do it
without marring the result, either by over-spray or by pre-
spraying sub-assemblies and then "touching up" after final
assembly. Please, a few hints for a newbie from some of the
more experienced hands? (Rob Robinson)
***I don't do modern warships myself, being more the sailing
man-of-war fan, but from what I have read in magazines, etc. on
the subject, I guess that the best thing to do is to complete
the basic structure of your model (hull, funnel, superstructure,
gun turrets and so on) and camouflage it *before* adding all
the fancy detail.
Of course, this leaves you with the problem of painting the
fancy details...:) (Staale Sannerud)
***Pretty easy, you paint the "fancy details" with a fine brush
after you've airbrushed the rest. (Paolo Pizzi)
20. Does anyone have any experience and/or tips on how to use slide
cover glass to make windows? I have read about using microscope
slide covers to model windows. This sounded great until I tried
to figure out how to cut the pieces to the proper shape. Every
time I try, I just end up destroying the delicate little square
of glass. (Dan Sullivan)
A. I have not specifically tried to cut slide glass but I have a
stained glass company and at times we have been called on to
repair lead light windows 1mm thin.
Use a good quality glasscutter & make sure the wheel is well
lubricated (dip into thin oil or kerosene if it is not the type
with a reservoir in the handle). You will also need a pair of
grozing pliers obtainable from any specialised glass shop.
For such thin glass make sure it is well supported, like on a
thick wad of newspaper. Glass is a solid but has the properties
of a liquid and will break irrationally if there is uneven
pressure.
Mark with a felt tip where you want to cut (can be straight or
curved). Make one even score preferably without stopping. Never
go over the score twice. Exert just enough pressure to hear a
faint scrunching sound. You are not trying to cut the glass,
just to break the surface tension.
With score facing up, hold the glass in one hand and snap off
the piece you have scored with the grozing pliers by placing the
squared off jaws parallel and close to the score. The pliers
have a right and wrong way up. Instructions are usually on the
back of the pack or ask the assistant to explain as wrong way up
will break the glass unpredictably. The movement is downward
away from the score.
score
|
hold V pliers
------------------v-------------------
|
| break
V downward
This is very hard to explain without a pen in my hand so if you
don't come right please send a fax number and I will sketch the
above. Or contact a local Tiffany or stained glass manufacturer.
You can also buy little glass saws like a miniature bandsaw but
they are pricey and we don't use them as the above method works
fine with practice. (Paul Wilson)
***Place the cover slip on a piece of glass, score lightly with
a diamond tipped pencil and break abruptly over the edge of the
glass. Usually works. Any little peninsulas can be ground off
with a small diamond or abrasive wheel in Dremel tool.
(Clayton Feldman)
***Try cutting the glass underwater. I know that this sounds
strange, but it works. The reason that glass shatters is the
breaking of the glass sets up vibrations in the glass that are
transmitted throughout the glass. These vibrations cause the
glass to shatter. If the glass is underwater, the vibrations are
damped out and the glass will not shatter. Believe it or not, I
once cut a piece of glass with a pair of sissors! The cut was
not clean, but the glass did not shatter. (Tim Philp)
***The best and easiest technique that I have seen and used
successfully is contained in an article by N. Roger Cole,
"Seaway's Ships in Scale", Vol. VI, No.1, page 15. The pattern
is drawn on a piece of scrap wood, the roughly cut coverglass is
secured to that pattern with double sided sticky tape and then
the glass is finished to final shape with a disk sander. Wear
eye protection, avoid brerathing the glass dust. (W. Hannan)
***I just use 10 thousands plastic sheet for windows. Works
great. (Ben Lankford)
***Put the glass on a very hard surface (I've used a steel
plate) and scribe with a diamond or similar point...then finish
the edges smooth on a fine carborundum paper...you'll still get
a lot of "scrappers". You'll find that, when putting them in
place, a fleck of sawdust in the frame may be enough to crack
the glass.
I now use mica instead; it's flexible, can be split to any
desired thickness, can be cut with scissors, and - being a
mineral that is already millions of years old - is unlikely to
decompose. Unfortunately, it's hard to find - check out your
local "rock-hound" shop. (Many of the admiralty models were
glazed with mica, and it's lasted hundreds of years.)
>>>there's now a supplier listed in the FAQ! (John Kopf)
***Please be very careful when grinding the edges of glass with
an abrasive (diamond or carborundum) Eye protection is an
absolute must. (Peter Law)
***Thank you all for many excellent suggestions. After some
experimentation, I have found that the "scribe and break" method
works very well as long as the glass is well supported (I have
been using a steel rule as a base). I use the edge of a sharp
chisel pressed along the desired line to support the glass from
above.
Lacking either a diamond scribe or a Dremel, I resorted to
using the tip of a needle file (the hardest tool I have) to do
the scribing. With care, this makes a nice sharp line, and the
glass breaks off very cleanly.
I would never have figured this out myself; thanks again for
all of your inputs. (Dan Sullivan)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part06
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 06) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
21. I am currently assembling a steam ferry boat model which, as
one can gather from the FAQ, doesn't come with "complete"
instructions. I have been provided with a brass tube for the
ship's smokestack, and brass flat wire to make bands around the
stack. The plans tell me to rivet the ends of the flat wire to
the stack. Rivets were not included in the kit. I have
managed to locate 1/32" X 5/32" copper rivets to accomplish
this task, but have no idea how to actually do the riveting. I
do have experience with larger rivets (patching holes in my
car) but the scale rivets look nothing like the larger ones I
am used to. The scale rivets appear to be nothing more than
straight copper pins with a round head on one end.
I would appreciate any help in riveting the bands to the tube.
(Mark S. Wheeler)
A: Riveting with solid rivets is simple supporting the "head" in
the proper sized holder. If it is a rounded head (I'm using
simplistic terms here, so no smart ass remarks from other metal
workers, please.) you need to support it in a rounded recess in
a steel block to keep from deforming it. Once this is figured
out you either hammer the other end causing it to bulge. Or
squeeze it. Vise grips are good for squeezing rivets. Ideally
the part of the rivet that sticks through the material to be
riveted should be about one and a half times it's diameter. A
properly set rivet should measure one and a half diameters
round and half a diameter high.
(Woody Vondracek)
***A tip in a recent Scale Auto Enthusiast suggested using a
mechanical pencil to cut tiny disks out of aluminum duct tape
(this is actually adhesive backed, heavy gauge aluminum foil -
NOT silver plastic tape - find it at the hardware store). The
details were:
- sharpen the outside of the pencil barrel with a file. BTW,
you can readily find mech pencils (at an art/drafting/
stationery store) in 0.3, 0.5, 0.7 and 0.9 mm diameters, so
you have a choice of rivet sizes.
- put the "tape" on a slightly soft surface, like a piece of
foam, cloth, etc.
- make sure the lead is retracted into the pencil, then punch
it through the foil with a slight twisting motion.
- apply the "rivet" with the pencil, clicking the lead out a
tick to eject the rivet, and as a bonus adding a nice indent
in the center. (Don Schmitz)
***Sounds like it might also be useful for punching porthole
"lights" as well. (John Kopf)
***A clever way to make rivets is to use old fashion (very)
teletype tape as a template. Teletype machines were used in the
50's to transmit messages over phone lines. You typed a message
at one end and the machine at the other end typed out the
message. I believe that beside the military they were primarly
used by the news services hence the name wire service. They
used a paper tape on a reel ot record the message you were
typing out and the tape had a series of small round holes down
the middle so the tape could be tractor fed. Using this tape as
a template and either white or carpenter's yellow glue
(depending on wether not the model will get wet) uniformly
sized evenly spaced rivets can be made. Tape the teletype tape
down and put a small glob of glue over each hole. Before the
glue completely dries lift off the TTY tape and you are left
with a row of neat rivits. Now comes the hard part -- where do
you find TTY tape? I would suggest surplus stores that deal in
electronics, somebody at a local IPMS chapter may have a source
or possibly a hobby shop thet caters to scratch builders of
plastic models.
Good luck. If this technique intrerest you and you find a
ready source for TTY tape be sure and post it to this list.
(Pete Law)
22. What is "lead sickness"?
A: Model fittings which contain lead have a bad reputation of
frequently "decaying" after 10-20 years. Current thinking is
that the cause is the presence of Antimony in the alloy. This
metal is used to make the molten metal more fluid. Apparently,
it crystalizes out of the melt as the metal solidifies; the
result is that on the crystalline level dissimilar metals are
in contact (if they didn't separate, the metals would be mixed
at the atomic level). The result is that in the presence of
water (or other chemicals) a galvanic reaction is set up (a
tiny battery is formed) which causes chemical reactions to
occur; the lead oxidizes into lead monoxide PbO, accompanied
by the formation of antimony hydride SbH3 (stilbine) which is
a gas and escapes into the atmosphere. Most "soft" solders
and "type metal" contain both lead and antimony.
An alternative is "Brittania metal" which is 93% tin, 5%
antimony, and 2% copper.
"Traditional" Pewter can contain up to 7% antimony, 20% lead,
4% copper, and the rest tin. Modern Pewter is sold as "lead
free", and so probably doesn't have the problem.
(This description is based on a letter by William G. Webb in
Model Shipbuilder #87.) (John Kopf)
*** for some reason, many lead compounds commonly used in
making model ship fittings deteriorate after 5 to 20 years,
actually turning to a powdery substance. Therefore, almost
every maritime/naval museum I have had contact with specifies
that no lead alloys may be used in construction of models.
Preferred substitute is called "Britannia Metal," and no, I
don't know the make-up, but Bluejacket, among others, advertise
parts in this metal. (RAlcorn824)
RIGGING
=======
23. What can be used for fine rigging line?
A: Traditionally, linen thread has been proven in use for hundreds
of years.
***I went through the same thing and finally found *the* answer:
nylon monofiliment fishing line. Use 1lb test and drag it across
the top of a permanent ink marker to blacken it, then attach
it w/super glue. You get the tension, it won't pull loose (well,
not easily) and it looks *great*! (Alexander Ishii):
Mono fishing line is available in different colors, including
"black" (no real need for using the permanent marker).
Generally, however, the various colors are more expensive than
regular fishing line; particularly, if the color is only
available as "tippet" material (a particular kind of fishing
line).
***You can also use fine wire. One source I've found locally
(silicon valley) is a "pulse transformer"...these use copper
wire .005 (more or less). They are frequently encapsulated in
epoxy, but the shell can be broken off and the wire salvaged.
I've not used it, but I understand that tungsten wire is made
for light-bulbs in sizes down to .0005 inch! I also understand
that it is dangerous to work with, because it is so strong that
the possibility of amputation is very real! The ultimate in
"paper cuts". Anyway, one might be able to get a couple of
feet of this from a light-bulb manufacturer and try using it.
Of course, how do you CUT it? (John Kopf)
*NEW* ***Yesterday I went to a fly fishing store to get some rigging
material. They carry a product called "Tippet line" or something
like that. Its a monofilament and you can get it in various
widths. I bought two spools; one was .003" (8X) and the other
.005" (6X). The spools at the place I went (Kaufman's Streamborn
in Seattle) cost US$3.75 each and carry 30 meters of line per
spool. In other words: enough.
I wandered around the store some to see what other things might
be good. I found lead wire of various diameters there also. I
bought two spools of that; one .01" the other .02" for US$1.50
each.
Check out your local resources or Kaufman's has a mail order
service. You can call them at 1(800)442-4359 or FAX (503)
684-7025. (Stephen Tontoni)
24. How does one assemble rigging?
A: Normally, one does the "standing rigging" (that which holds up
the masts, etc.) FIRST, and then the "running rigging" (that
which works the sails -- these lines are the ones with PULLEYS).
Because of the complexity of the rigging, it's best to start at
the bottom and center and work your way up and out...if you put
the outer lines on first, then you have to work THROUGH them to
reach the inner lines.
When possible, it's best to apply as much rigging to a mast on
the workbench BEFORE actually mounting it on the model, and
then finishing it off. "helping hands" are useful for such
tasks as putting strops around blocks, but not much help when
working on the model itself. A couple of hemostats (I find mine
at the local flea market) are useful, but I tend to use them
most to attach to the end of a line as a weight to keep it
straight while working on it. Tweezers are also useful, and
a couple of other tools you can make yourself out of knitting
needles and dowels for handles:
take a needle, mash one end flat, and file a V in the end --
useful to PUSH ropes; Take another, mash the end, and drill a
small hole through it -- useful to thread a line through the
hole to work a line through the rigging; Take a third, flatten
the end, and file a hook on one side -- useful to PULL a line
through the rigging.
***Some of the best little tools I have ever used on boat
rigging came from my mom's sewing basket! Needle threaders are
invaluable for threading the rigging through eyelets. A good
pair of tweezers is a help, but the best kind are the
"reversable" tweezers, the kind that apply pressure when you
are NOT gripping them. Great for guiding tricky threads.
Finally, a good pair of manicuring scissors for the fine
cutting and clipping needed. I have a pair with points so tiny
on them that it is hard to see the cutline they make.
(Aaron Taylor)
25. How do I install ratlines?
A: My current practice is to install the masts without the yards
but including any masthead platforms. After installing the
shrouds in a prototypical manner, I use the "smallest" gauge
needle I can lay my hands on to sew the ratlines through the
shrouds. In any reasonable scale the prototypical knots will
be virtually invisible if you are using appropriately sized
thread. After the tedious sewing job is done I brush a semi-
gloss black enamel to simulate the tarred seizing of the
shrouds. This also cements the ratlines into place permanently,
so make any needed adjustments before reaching for the
paintbrush!
Stretching the thread and soaking it with a thin wash of white
glue and letting it dry will stiffen it, which may be an
advantage (but real ratlines were NOT straight -- they hung in
curves between the shrouds). (John Bonnett)
*NEW* ***Here are some things I have picked up over the years.
Most shroud/ratline jigs, or preformed shroud/ratline sets,
don't really work all that well. It is very hard to get uniform
tension when installing them. Go for true, independent shrouds
and ratlines.
Get a book on rigging - several books on model ships in my
local library have sections on rigging.
Tools -
Several sets of tweezers, including; long set, and
"normally closed" ones.
A hook. Something like a crochet hook (I make my own
out of coat hanger wire, pound the end flat and file
in the hook).
A fork, about same length as hook, made same way.
Both hook and fork should be six to eight inches long.
Work sessions. Do not work too long at any one time, even
when more experienced. If I have not been doing ship rigging
for awhile, I limit myself to 1/2 hour sessions. Never more
than one hour at a time.
Simplify rigging. For a novice, concentrate on standing
rigging. If you are not going to be adding sails, the ship
would appear as in port, or at anchor for an extended period.
One can then omit much of the running rigging. If you do a
fair job at the standing rigging, adding just a minimal running
rigging can result in a very nice looking model.
One problem on plastic models is that you cannot put as much
tension as you might like on lines. So getting EVEN tension is
important. HOWEVER, if you look at photos of sailing ships in
their day, only navy ships were all square and nice. Masts
were really askew on many merchant ships. So if your masts
look more like corkscrews, just claim it is prototypical.
(Don Stauffer)
26. Do ratlines extend beyond the futtock shrouds to the lubbers
hole? Is the futtock shroud tied directly to the main shroud.?
A: Futtock shrouds are terminated at lower ends in a variety of
ways, depending on which mast, and how large a ship. For
larger masts they usually were NOT tied to shrouds of mast
below. (Don Stauffer)
27. How can rigging line be made to hang naturally?
A: Try washing the thread in warm soapy water, rinse it out, and
hang up to dry with a weight on the end so it doesn't develop a
lot of kinks. This will remove any "sizing" that makes the line
stiff. The alternative is "spinning" your own rope from fine
threads -- this is a lot of work but results in very "limp"
rope. If neither of these work, you may also be able to mix up
white glue and water with a drop of detergent (as a wetting
agent), soak the thread, and while still wet apply it to the
model; then let it dry in place using a piece of scrap as a
"form" to give it it's shape.
28. Could someone 'in the know' give me advice on how to build small
blocks for model sailing ships? I'm talking about blocks about
1/16 - 3/32 inch in size. What's the recommended technique, what
type of wood is best, etc?
A. Get a long piece of strip stock the same cross section as your
block should look. For instance, if you want a block to be
3/32 high and 1/16 wide as viewed looking straight through the
hole then get a piece of 3/32 x 1/16 x 12 strip stock (or cut
your own!). Round the edges of the strip with sand paper.
Drill the correct number of holes into the stock from the end.
Drill only deep enough to cover the depth of a couple of block.
This will insure that the hole(s) run true. If you try to do
too deep the holes will wander off center.
Now for each block (I usually do 3 - 5 at a time) make a score
around the strip stock to create the groove for stroping the
block. What you are doing is working down the strip stock
creating a few blocks at a time. It is easier to work with
them on the strip.
Now cut each block out seperately and round with sand paper.
Finish with stroping of your choice.
v v v grooves around strip for strops
------------------------------
! ! ! |
==!===!===!== < hole
! ! ! |
-----------------------------
^ ^ ^ cut here when grooves are cut
This is a very simple method but it works for me. If you can
get the hole to run true you can mass produce a number of
blocks at a time this way.
Boxwood is a nice wood to work with but I have has success with
basswood using this method. You need a fine grain so the wood
won't splinter when you drill the hole. (David Loseke)
***Personaly, I cheated and bought the ones for my model of
HMS Victory from Model EXPO. They list single sheaves down
to 3/32. I found that 1/8 was the right size for a 1/98 scale.
(George Wallace)
OTHER STUFF...
==============
29. What is meant by "Museum Quality" ship models?
A. This topic has been discussed regularly in the Journal of the
Nautical Research Guild.
Edward P. Von der Porten, former director of the Army, Navy,
and Coast Guard Museum near San Francisco says "A museum
quality ship model is whatever a museum director accepts for a
museum collection". In general, the model (or artifact) must be
able to convey part of a carefully thought out STORY to a
thoroughly analyzed AUDIENCE. If the exhibit concerns ship
"crafts", sailor-built models, half-models, and ships in bottles
may have a role, even if inaccurate.
In a diorama (for example, in the 2-MILE section of Omaha Beach
to be displayed aboard the Jeremial O'Brian, using 1:1200
models), a uniform scale is important (for this example, detail
is not).
On the other hand, Dana M. Wegner reports that the standards
used by the U. S. Navy and Smithsonian have been relatively
unchanged since 1945:
o It is reasonable for a model to last 100 years before
deterioration becomes visible. Resistance to actions of
temperature, humidity, and light is essential...some recently
developed model-building materials and techniques should be
avoided until sufficient time has passed to properly evaluate
their longevity...It is advised that fiberglass resins,
styrene, expanding foams, casting resins, and cyanoacrylate
glues be avoided when other materials can possibly be used.
o 'Workmanship shall be in accordance, in every respect, with
the best model-building practices. Hulls shall be smooth,
fair, and symmetrical; without blemishes, sap pockets, or tool
marks, and shall be scraped and sand-papered to smooth surface.
Machined parts shall bear no tool marks. Castings shall
contain no visible mold marks.'
o Any item with any SCALE dimension of 1/8" or greater must be
reproduced...work must be consistent [no super-detailing of
one part of the model contrasting with lesser levels of detail
elsewhere].
o A great deal is specified about acceptable and required
materials (e.g., 'Propellers should be cast in bronze...
Plastic propellers are not permitted').
o 'Painting of models shall receive careful attention...All
parts of the model shall have a surface treatment representing
the actual vessel if reduced in scale...models shall be spray
painted with opaque lacquer. Paint shall be applied thinly
and evenly so that fine detail will not be obliterated. The
use of metallic paints such as silver or gold is discouraged.
The use of white enamel or natural varnish is not permitted'...
'Wooden parts shall be sufficiently filled and primed so that
when rubbed down, the wood grain is not visible.'
{ The full set of specifications can be found in: Department
of Ship Model Scales and Service. Ship Model Classification
Guidelines [Mystic, Connecticut: Mystic Seaport Museum Stores,
1983] It was also published in part in Ships in Scale 6-34
(March/April 1989)} -- what this all boils down to is that the
purpose of a ship model is to support a coat of paint of the
correct SHAPE! (John Kopf)
*** Write the Mystic Seaport museum. Their definitions are
pretty close to universal, from my experience. By the way,
they also sell your ship models "if" they meet the standards.
Basically, Kit bilt, kit modified,, kit-bashed and completely
scratch. Restrictions also on materials, adhesives, etc. It's
worth the stamp for the information. check your local library
for the mailing address. "directory of American Museums") --
(RAlcorn824)
30. Where can I find plans for the Frigate (HMS) Rose?
A: There was some interest expressed a few days ago in using the
modern reconstruction of the eighteenth century English frigate
"Rose" as a subject for shipmodeling. My caution is that since
the Rose is a reconstruction rather than a replica (that is,
a general rather than an exact copy), she is not a good subject
for modeling. It would be better to go back to the builders
original research materials, starting with the British Admiralty
plans of 1756, obtainable from the National Maritime Museum at
Greenwich.
For a very interesting article on the building of the
reconstruction, see "HMS Rose and Providence, Some Lessons
Learned the Hard Way", by John Fitzhugh Millar, in "Seaways",
Vol. II, No. 5, Sept-Oct 1991. You can find out about the
modern ship (or even book passage!) at:
HMS Rose Foundation (203) 335-1433
One Bostwick Ave
Bridgeport CT 06605
***On the net, try: http://www.synergy.net/homeport.html .
(Clayton A. Feldman)
31. How do I get a ship model appraised (for insurance purposes)?
("The Gallery" in Galveston buys and sells only ship models.
The director was the only person I had success locating that
appeared to be able to make an appraisal and issue a certificate
that an insurance company would honor. They appear to be a
reputable outfit and have advertised for quite some time in
"Seaway's Ships in Scale" magazine. IF he is qualified to
perform this duty via photos, I would rather spend $50 and know
my ship is insured than not. I was hoping to hear from others
who may have references for other appraisers and their
respective fees, etc. Although I have never had a model stolen,
I have had plastic models destroyed in moves. The government
only paid the cost of buying a new model, not for the time and
other expenses involved, which is understandable.)
A: Most appraisers are NOT familiar with ship models! As a result,
their "Appraisals" must be taken with a grain of salt. There
are specialists who can do a good job, but they're hard to find.
Several are listed in the FAQ, and if they are not conveniently
located they may be able to steer you to someone in your area.
The fee for an appraisal varies, but is frequently some
percentage of the appraised value. (John Kopf)
*** Tricky question, because it's not a heavily populated field.
I would suggest more or less in order the following:
1) curator(s) of the nearest maritime or naval museum.
2) curators of other such museums.
3) Southeby's or other international auction houses. ((Expect
to pay a bill around 10% or the appraised value))
4) Owners/operators of specialty shops in the area
(particularly if you live or sell in a maritime area like
Annapolis, Baltimore, Boston, Charlestown, ...San
Francisco, etc.) If there is a 'port' or 'maritime museum'
nearby, someone has experience selling models.
5) A bank located near a port or historic port area - offer
them one as a 'visual enhancement' to their lobby, etc.,
and find out what the traffic will bear. (RAlcorn824)
32. I'am looking for a tried and true sub plans, preferably, but
will accept any info or suggestings on model subs. All info
will be appreciated.
A. OK, model subs... As with everything else, depends on what
you're after. There are very few polystyrene kits of US WWII
subs (Revell Lionfish) and several 1:700 scale modern subs of
both US and Soviet (Russian) build. There are a few
polystyrene kits of WWII U-boats, type VII and XXII. Both of
these are available with internal components that are displayed
through cutouts in one side. In resin, MB (Blue Water) makes a
series of kits including WWII Gato class, S boat, and a number
of modern subs (SSN, SSBN and Russian Kilo diesel boat).
Supposedly, Tom's Model Works is going to release a resin of
WWII diesels that can be built as Gato, Balao or Guppy versions.
Also a rerelease of the Nautilus (SSN-571), in polystryrene.
If you want to do your own through plans or get a really
large size hull (1:96), contact the Floating Drydock in
Kresgeville, Pa. They stock plans for a large selection of
subs and fiber glass hulls (not cheap) for building your own
WWII diesel boat. (Tom Dougherty)
>>>When it dives below water, and you can't see it, what do you
do? Just drive around under water, not kowing where the sub is
or what it is doing, until you decide to surface again?
***This is one of the two most often asked questions about R/C
submarining, the other being "How does it receive radio signals
below the surface?". First, depending upon the clarity of the
water you can easily see the sub at periscope depth (one reason
why we usually have raised scopes), and even lower depths close
in to shore. If you go under too deep then you either surface
(if it's an "active ballast" boat) or you "plane" it to the
surface using either bow or stern planes. In either case, if
the sub stays down too long you want to "blow" ballast, or if
it's a dynamic diver, just stop the motor and let the positive
ballast bring it to the surface.
Second, depending upon the chemical composition of the water,
the boat will receive signals down to as much as ten feet below
the surface if it's fresh water, and 3-5 feet it it's salt
water or chlorinated pool water. (Kerry David)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part07
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 07) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
33. Why do [your choice] cost so much?
A: This is an interesting question, for it illustrates the trade
offs inherent when your modeling efforts become a business. I
have had some limited exposure with this (I have done some
pattern work for The Scale Shipyard in the past) - and the time
spent on a master is extrordinary. For the last 3 nights I
have been working on a 1/16" 5" twin gun mount. When it is
finished I will have about 9 hours into the pattern. Will it
be perfect? No, I am leaving off some detail that would be
tedious and even more time consuming to put on (rivets, etc)
simplifying other detail (hinges for doors) and only indicate
where other detail goes if the modeler cares to add it (grab
rails). Why? There is a couple of curves here. One is that
adding complexity to a part shortens mold life when dealing
with RTV rubber. Little pieces degrade over time, and it does
not take long for the mold to be useless. My time to build
masters is limited, and the law of diminishing returns applies
here. Lastly, economics plays a part - there is a finite
amount that most modelers will pay for a certain part.
(The really sad thing is when someone puts hours into making
a part, and a modeler buys one and copies it for his models,
or worse, for his friends. It is only through multiple unit
sales that companies can hope to realize a profit - thus keep
is business - thus produce new stuff. I have been told by
several small casting companies how frustrating it is when a
modeler orders, essentially, one of everything, and then is
never heard from again.)
I hope that the Enterprise kit does well. Chances are even
at that price level he is not planning to retire soon on the
profits. 8-) It remains to be seen what the demand for such
a kit will be. Ultimately modelers have control over the
quality of kits coming out. By supporting ambitious projects
such as this you assure more will follow. If they do not do
well then we must settle for less detailed, simpler kits at a
lesser price.
Aside from the fact that I believe it just about impossible
to 'rip off' someone in the course of a hobby - after all, it
is not a neccesity, just a pastime, and if prices go too high
you can choose another - you have a very simple alternative;
scratchbuild.
When making a pattern I start with a chunk of acrylic, shape
it with metal working machines, finish it with wood working
machines and hand tools to a 2000 grit finish, detail the part
using a combination of brass and plastic pieces, individually
made, and then ship it to the manufacuturer for production. If
you feel that the finished item is worth it, then purchase it.
If you think prices are too high, then make the items yourself
and then market them at a lesser price - that too is what the
free market is all about. (Kurt Greiner)
****Not to mention the most overlooked fact of all: If a
modeler really wants to build a $1000 ship kit, rather than just
"acquire" it, the number of dollars per hour of entertainment
is probably cheaper than renting a movie on video. A kit of
this magnitude would likely take at least 500 hours to
complete to a reasonable standard, probably more. That seems
to be pretty cheap fun if you ask me. (Hawk137)
***The price of the kit is not an issue. Most of BWN's
products are out of my range, so my only experience is seeing
them at displays of BWN and other vendors at shows. If the
market will support the costs of BWN's products, then so be it.
Hopefully, the escalating costs of unique ships is not a
trend, but if it is, then all of us must be doing quite well.
I understand that R&D, as well as labor and production, are
expensive propositions in today's market, and a business has
the right to make a profit.
As to the assertion that "everyone wants something for
nothing", this is not true, IMHO. Modelers want high quality
kits at fair and reasonable prices. Some may consider $950 a
fair and reasonable price, and others may not, but this
determination is in the opinion of the modeler, and not the
producer. The criticism of the price should have been
expected, and a reasonable response should have been formed
long before all of this transpired. All of this is in the
past though, and hindsight is 20/20, so I agree with the main
point of RBartolacc in that we should all get back to the
hobby. (REDBOZO6)
***'Twould be great to have more kits available of ships,
boats, and other things that make their way upon the oceans!
Blue Water is OK (no offense intended) but maybe too expensive
for many of us. As I've posted before, I have reached the
point where I absolutely refuse to purchase Japanese (Tamiya,
Fujimi, Hasegawa, Aokii, SkyWave, etc., kits because of
comments I've read about 'charging as much as the market will
bear.'
What *is* the cost of having injection mold masters made?
After all, for any model, someone along the way has to make a
master (or steal parts!). Perhaps. if we as ship modelers want
access to new kits, maybe this is the time to get together and
develop and market our own - at cost or close to it! We want
the models, and I'm sure we can generate a list of preferences
quickly. Let's get some sort of list generated, talk among
ourselves, make the masters, and do it!
things to consider:
Scales: 1:700. 1:350. 1:192 (or 1:200), etc.
Mixed media; resin + aftermarket details; injected moldings;
wood with plastic/pewter/Britannia details, etc.
Most of us tend to model warships. I would personally like to
have access to a *good* Liberty or Victory or T2 or even C1 in
1:350. Other 'wants' include vessels from the transition
(U.S.Navy) from sail to steam, particularly 1865-1905 period.
We're not a big market, face it! Possibly, if we cooperate,
we can do one heck of a lot more for each other than any *major*
kit manufacturer would ever attempt. Any Ideas? (RAIcorn824)
34. Where can I get 1/72 scale coast guard decals? I'm building an
hh-60.
A: Superscale #109 carries US Coast Guard markings for the HC-130,
HU-16 and HH-3F. You may be able to adapt these markings for
the HH-60 (if it's not the most recent paint scheme you're
looking for). (Abe Lynn)
***A generic set of Coast Guard markings are available on
Super Scale sheet No. 72-109. Hope this helps.
{mailto:pbo...@kalmbach.com}
35. Am modeling a Fletcher (Revell 1/305) and was wondering if
anyone could offer some up to date colors, FS numbers, etc.?
A: Floquil has come out with a series of WWII marine paints that
match USN colors:
a. Navy Blue 5-N - (Floquil) 818598 \
b. Ocean Gray 5-O - 818596 |
c. Weather Deck Blue 20-B 818600 |
d. Haze Grey 5-H 818594 | - these are the Floquil
e. Deck House Blue 818704 | part nos.
f. Pale Blue 5-P 818590 |
g. Light Grey 5-L 818592 /
Tom Walkowiak runs The Floating Drydock, a model
shop/reference house (?). He has a vast library of photos of
USN vessels, and can provide 8" x 10" glossies for given hull
numbers and time periods. He also sells U.S. Navy Camouflage
& Markings for $7.99, which lists all the camouflage patterns
used by the USN during WWII. His address is:
The Floating Drydock
c/o General Delivery
Kresgeville, PA 18333
I have his U.S. Navy Camouflage & Markings book. The book is
a fair compendium of everything one would wish to know about
U.S. Navy Camouflage & Markings in WW II. However, if your
worried about ABSOLUTE ACCURACY, you need to determine which of
the hundreds of Fletchers you'll be doing - the camouflage
patterns vary. In fact, The Floating Drydock also sells (for
a few bucks, I think) a list of most USN WWII vessels with the
camouflage measures that each had during the war. The Floating
Drydock sells camouflage sheets for most measures and ship
classes. (Rob Robinson)
***I have both, along with their color chipset. The C&M book
is very useful for things you don't think about until you get
there like the horizontal colors, both decks and undersides of
whatever. Highly recommended, and I only wish there was
something like it for other navies.
BTW, the list of USN vessels/measures is only for those in
measures 31/32/33, not 21 or 22. And they don't mention the
time period. Since ships seemed to change colors like new
dresses, ...
Per the aforementioned "USN Camouflage 1 of the WW2 Era" from
Floating Drydock:
- "After [1946-47] almost all vessels adopted Measure 13,
solid haze gray (5-H) as peacetime paint", until the next set
of regulations came out.
- After March 1953, use either Measure 27 (same as 13, above)
or 17 (also known as 14) which uses Ocean Grey vice Haze Grey.
For both these measures, "all steel decks and all other
horizontal steel surfaces exposed to aerial observation shall
be painted either smooth dark gray deck type A or non-skid
dark gray deck type B. All overheads and the undersides of
all other external horizontal surfaces shall be painted glossy
or base white".
In other words, just like a modern ship, except for details of
the color shades and masting. (Allan "battleships!" Plumb)
***Try Alan Raven's "Fletcher-Class Destroyers", available from
the Naval Institute. There're four different camo schemes
sketched, which show Port and starboard views, deck views, and
sections showing mount & superstructure faces.
{mailto:00jeg...@bsuvc.bsu.edu}
***Two good refs: Flush Decks & Four Pipes (a classic, now in
2nd edition, and probably available from USNI, Annapolis, MD)
and "The Destroyer Campbeltown", by Al Ross, one of the
"Anatomy of the Ship" series from Conway Maritime Press /
United States Naval Institute (depends on which continent you
call home).
BTW, new and very excellent reference volume on Gearing/Sumner
class DD's just publiched by USNI. Author is Bob Sumrall, one
of the curators at the USNA Museum. Expensive book, but
Nothing Else Even Comes Close!!! Lots of excellent photos,
drawings, including color renditions. My Dad (departed now
nearly 30 years) was Propulsion Systems Engineer for members of
the class built by consolidated - I have lots of original
white-lines on the ships. Sumrall's book is as good as, if not
better, than having *all* the original documentation, because
he goes into as-built, as-employed details. (RAIcorn824)
36. How do I make small, inexpensive cast plastic fittings?
A: How easy it is depends on what shape you want to cast. If the
object is flat on one side (e.g., water-tight doors), or can be
made as a set of components that are flat and assembled later,
it's fairly easy.
The MAJOR expense is the cost of a can of RTV (Room Temperature
Vulcanizing) rubber...get the smallest can you can find. Your
local hobby shop may have it, or can order it for you. Price
this out FIRST -- then decide if you want to continue!
There are a number of ways to do this; I'll describe one that
I've used. I needed to make up a set of 8 steam cargo winches
for a WWI vintage freighter. Each was essentially a rectangular
frame with various "bits" sticking out here and there.
I decided to break the pattern into 10 parts: base, 2 sides, 2
"cranks", 2 cams, 1 spool, 1 "head" and a gear; these would be
assembled using brass rod.
The base was a 1/2 x 5/8 rectangle of .015 styrene, this had
two 3/16 x 3/16 x 1/16 blocks of styrene for steam boxes glued
on, and some of the steam piping.
The two sides (mirror images of one another) were .015 styrene,
properly shaped. A round boss was added as well as a flange
around the top and side, and a steam cylinder (a turned spool
bedded into a carrier, both from lucite). Also, more steam
piping.
The cranks and cams were 3/16 slices off a lucite rod; the
cranks had a couple of notches filed into the edge to become
"T" shaped.
The spool was turned from 1/4 lucite; it had a slice of a 1/4
10-tooth plastic pinion gear salvaged from a slot car.
The head was turned from wood, 3/16 d x 3/16 long.
The gear was a slice of another, 8-tooth pinion.
NONE of these pieces had severe undercuts!
All necesary holes were located, and either drilled through
(on the thin stuff) or at least "dimpled" to locate for later
drilling.
I next took a piece of scrap plate glass (about 3" x 4" -- I
had a lot of that left over after the last earthquake), and
CA'ed the back of all the parts to it in a reasonably close
pattern.
I made a "fence" from cardboard -- just a box without top or
bottom; approximately 1 1/4 x 2 3/4 x 1/2 high. This was
temporarily taped to the glass surrounding the patterns.
I smeared the inside of the box, the glass, and the patterns
with vasoline thinned with a bit of lighter fluid as a release
agent.
Mix up a small amount of the RTV; try not to get any bubbles in
it. Vibration helps -- try one of the Dremel engravers, or a
jig saw -- anything that will vibrate and shake out the bubbles.
Paint a thin coat of the RTV over the patterns...the thinner
the better to avoid bubbles. Do it again. After a couple of
coats, pour the rest of the RTV into the box level with the
top, and let it set up.
Pry the now-solid rubber block off...that's your mould. The
"top" of the mould should be nice and flat (from the glass),
with the "prints" from the patterns as cavities in the surface.
I used 5-minute Epoxy for the castings.
Again paint the rubber with the vasoline mould release, mix up
a small batch of epoxy (post'em note pads make a wonderful
disposable palette for this) and fill all the cavities. Since
it is clear, you can see bubbles and poke them with a toothpick
or pin. Use an old razor blade to level the top of the epoxy
(that will be the back of the individual castings). Once the
epoxy on the palette is hard, you can remove the castings from
the mould. Being rubber, you can flex it to help get the parts
out.
Warning...the epoxy does tend to stick slightly to the mould.
if there is a bubble in the rubber adjacent to this, the rubber
will tear there and leave the bubble exposed. The next casting
you make from the mould will have tiny "beads" at this sites,
as your casting cavity includes the bubbles which WILL fill
with epoxy. A few of these can be sliced off the parts, but
eventually the mould will become unusable.
How long that takes depends on how much care you took to avoid
having bubbles in the rubber. (John Kopf)
***There are two main mold materials that have very different
applications. RTV mold material is great, you can make undercut
molds. But, it is expensive and has limited shelf life. Other
is plaster of paris. Cheap, but parts must have relief angle,
absolutely NO undercuts or straight sides. Limited shelf life
also, but at price this is not a problem.
I tried to do a zero relief cast of a hubcap that had a short,
straight cylinder. Got the mold off the part okay. Then, put
LOTS of release agent in mold. Still, cannot get resin part
out of mold. Resin castings do NOT SHRINK!
For metal parts, you may be able to get away with straight side
sections in simple parts, as metal does shrink a bit.
But basically, we have the dilemma of an excellent material
(RTV) that is expensive, or a cheap material that limits the
type of parts you can cast. (Don Stauffer)
***Other methods of mold-making and casting include the quick
and expediant method of modeling clay (oil clay) and superglue.
If you need a duplicate of an existing part that isn't too
large or complicated, it can be made of cyanoacrylate(sp?). Get
some modeling clay (the greyish sometimes oily stuff that never
hardens), work it up untill its fairly plyable, then simply
press the part to be duplicated into it to make a simple
negative impression. You might need to try it a few times to
get a clean and clear impression. Then, drip in a bit of CA
glue over the whole surface and then a bit of filler
(microbeads, or for both filler and quick setting, baking soda,
which flash cures the CA). A few more layers of CA and filler
will build up the object to the desired thickness. However, it
works best if you don't rush the process with very thick
layers, as they will be very slow to cure, even with soda or
accellerator. Then, pull the clay away from the object, and
with a bit of paint thinner clean off any clay that is still
sticking to the object and there you go.
(Bev Clark/Steve Gallacci)
37. A friend of mine told me that CA glues (superglues, Zap-A-Gap,
etc.) will severely weaken their bonds over time and may
eventually turn to white powder. Can anyone out there confirm
or deny the above statement?
A. I remember a similar scare back in 1968 when I was getting back
into models after college - Krazy Glue hadn't appeared on the
market yet. A local hobby shop was importing the first CA we'd
seen from Japan (Pearl Chemical). The rumor started that it
would only last a year, so many of us went back to epoxies etc.
The rumor was finally discredited and we returned to CA. I used
it mostly on metal military miniatures and plastic armour all
of which were completely painted - and they are still in one
piece. I've known it to fail if you put it on too thick or on
an unprepared dirty surface as and put alot of stress on the
fix. I've also tried to open a tight joint with acetone solvent
with limited success. The stuff does seem to last. It would be
interesting to get a chemists opinion. (V. L. Kraut)
***Regarding CYA's. I am a coatings chemist that uses CYA's
frequently. Couple of points to remember about CYA's is that
they are soluble in many organic solvents (acetone, methanol)
and WATER. Also, if the glue is cured to quickly (by using too
much "accelerator") the heat generated will cause the glue to
foam and reduce its strength. I have had CYA joints exposed
to methanol glow fuels fail, but i have never seen the glues I
have used degrade over time. However, it is very possible that
years of high humidity, sunlight, or solvent exposure could
destroy CYA. (Dave Seuferling)
***I've got two ship models, wood, plank on bulkhead, that I
put together in the winter of 1982-83. I used regular Crazy
Glue on both and reinforced the joints between the bulkheads
and strakes with white glue. All the rest of the glue joints
were strictly Crazy Glue. No joints have separated so far, and
neither of the models are in a glass case, so they are exposed
to whatever the ambient room conditions are. I used the same
glue on a double planked hull, still far from finished, and on
outer layerstrake has separated at the bow (no big deal to fix
it).
Two out of three of the above hulls have extreme compound
curves at both bow and stern, so the joints had to have been
under some stress, even though I hot bent them during
construction.
I have a fouth that I started in 84 and am still working on
that I used Crazy Glue - wood and leather on. The hull is
fully nailed (2000+ nails), so even if the glue lets go, I
don't think the planks are going anywhere. This version of
Crazy Glue turned out to be a lot better to work with than
the original. It's a bit thicker, so its more forgiving about
slight gaps or irregularities in the joints, takes a bit longer
to set up so tricky pieces can be coaxed into place a bit
easier than the "instant"bond of the original allowed.
Even if you don't want to use it as a construction glue, one
place this stuff really shines is in threading small blocks
when you're doing the rigging and setting the knots and
fastenings to belaying pins and cleats. A bit of glue on the
end of a piece of string firms it up so it becomes its own
needle. A long diagonal cut through the glued string creates a
very fine point, and passing the string through the tiny hole
in a block is no problem at all. Rat lines and other knotted
crossings of lines stay put if you dab a bit of glue on them,
and if you use the original formula for this purpose, it
disappears completely into the thread. The W&L formula
sometime stays visible if you use too much.
Be aware that some shops that sell models don't accept cryo
based glues though, so if you're building to market, check with
the shop before you spend a lot of time building a boat they
won't want. (Jack Silvia)
***One thing I have noticed is that alot of people are claiming
to have built models of various types using CA adhesives that
are 20 years old and aren't falling apart.
One thing that HAS become more prevalent in the use of CA
Adhesives is the use of "accelerators" and "ZIP Kickers" with
the slower curing varieties of CA. This can produce quite
different results than the traditional methods of using CA.
The availability of accelerators has also allowed people to use
CA as a filler as well as an adhesive.
Problems can occur when an accelerator is used on a thick
application of CA. The accelerator can instantly cure the
SURFACE of the application, but the center stays liquid, and
MAY not be able to cure properly if the surface hardening
completely seals the center off from air. This results in a
soft core that may never fully cure, and is not structurally
sound as an adhesive.
I ran into this when I used CA to fill all of the windows in a
Heller 1/72 Constellation in order to convert it to a C/EC-121.
Some of the windows fills retained a "bubble" of uncured CA.
It is better to do this type of operation in multiple thin
applications, than trying to do it in one thicker one and use
accelerator!
I wonder how many CA problems are related to the one I had!
Hopefully, we all learn from our mistakes. (Steve Kennedy)
***I've recently had a very strange experience with them that
has me baffled, and I'd like to learn how to not repeat it....
A couple of days ago, I was coating the interiors of cardboard
model rocket tubes with CA in order to strengthen them. I was
using a store brand (I can give you the manufacturer if you
need it) that was a couple of months old. At first I was using
medium, but then I ran out and switched to thick. My finger
was covered with the stuff, and a bit after I switched to the
thick, I started feeling a sharp pain in that finger. I thought
it would go away, but it just getting stronger and stronger --
it started feeling like my finger was on fire.
I put my finger under water, which seemed to help. But a few
minutes after I would take my finger out of the water, the heat
would start coming back. The glue was too thick to wash off,
and not set enough to peel off, so my husband tried cleaning it
off with paint thinner. That hurt too much, so he got some
debonder, and eventually we got it all off, put some burn
medicine on, and wrapped my finger in a bandage. Everything
was fine after that....
I know it wasn't an allergic reaction because my husband got
some on his finger while he was cleaning me up, and he started
burning too. I also know that CA generates heat when it cures
-- but my husband didn't have that much on his finger.... So,
I was curious if you might have any ideas on what caused it to
burn so much? Do you think it might have been mixing the
medium and thick (both from the same manufacturer)??? Could it
have been the age of the stuff??? Or could it just have been
something with the brand???? Or could it have been the fact
that I had so much on my finger????
As I said, I'd like to avoid this in the future (and warn
others about it too), but unless I know what exactly happened,
there's not much that I could do that makes sense.....
(Paul & Victoria Heisner)
***CA was developed as a way to "stitch" wounds together fast
in the field, that's why you shouldn't get it on your fingers,
and the chemical reaction involved probabely caused the burning
of your finger. In short, don't get it on your skin!
(Olaf Kievit)
***Bottom line -- Don't rely on a glue joint alone (ANY type
of glue)...PIN the pieces to gether as well (using screws,
nails, dowels, splines, etc., if at all possible.
Take care when using CA...it was originally developed as an
alternative to sutures in surgery.
However, it IS handy to have somethig set almost instantly...
I regularly use it in conjunction with other glues (white and
yellow) to tack pieces together until the "slow" glue can set
up -- instant clamps! (John Kopf)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part11
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
Last-modified: 28 May 1996
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 11) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
101. Where can I find... ?
(This FAQ is a continuation of part 09)
101-D. LUMBER & OTHER MATERIALS
------------------------
Ace Resin (John Nitka) 602-886-8051
7481 E. 30th Street
Tucson, AZ 85710
"At this year's IPMS Nationals, I ran across a vendor which
seemed to have a very good product - both the RTV rubber and
the resin. The rubber I have been getting (Dow-Corning 3110,
I think) seems to be similar to theirs, but the resin seems a
whole lot better than anything else that I have worked with.
John Roll"
A&M Wood Specialty, Inc. 519-653-9322
358 Eagle Street North 519-653-3441 FAX
P.O. Box 32040
Cambridge, Ontario N3H 5M2
Canada
(They carry an extensive line of all kinds of woods including
boxwood (Castello and English), pear (swiss and domestic),
ebony, lignum vitae, cherry, holly, etc. They publish a
quarterly inventory sheet.)
Alumilite Corp. 616-342-1259
225 Parsons Street
Kalamazoo, MI 49007
(Casting products, low viscosity resins; new product:
$PINcaster-9, machine for casting parts in plastic and
low-temperature metals)
American Art Clay Co.
4717 W. 16th Street
Indianapolis, IN 46222
("Brush'n Leaf" liquid metal finishes)
American Science & Surplus 847-982-0870 *NEW*
(Mica sheets - for windows, etc.)
Artistry in Veneers, Inc. 908-668-1430
450 Oak Tree Ave.
South Plainfield, NJ 07080
(Veneers, including Pear, Ebony, etc. Catalog $1.50)
Belmont Metals, Inc. 719-342-4900
Attn: Phil Karmel
330 Belmont Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11207
(Britannia metal $12 + in bulk)
Berea Hardwoods (Warehouse) 216-234-7949
6367 Eastland Rd.
Cleveland OH
- or -
Berea Hardwoods (Office) 216-243-4452
125 Jacqueline Drive,
Berea OH 44017
(specializing in unusual woods, but also a good source for
more mundane species. The proprietor is fun to talk to.)
Circuit Board Supplies, Inc. 708-595-7570
820 Maple Lane
Bentsenville, IL 60106
(Coper foil in bulk)
Clotilde 800-772-2891
2 Sewsmart Way
B8031
Stevens Point, WI 54481-8031
(source for silk thread)
Constantine 800-223-8087
2050 Eastchester Road
Bronx, NY 10461
(Specialty wood for crafts)
Craft Woods 800-468-7070
2101 Greenspring Drive
P.O. Box 527
Timonium, MD 21093
(Carving woods, tools, books, etc. -- free catalog)
Deknatel
Queen's Village
New York, 11429
(Supplies braided surgical silk (non-sterile). Available in
spools pf 25 yards or 100 yards in black or white. '7-0'
measures as .003" and '6-0' measures as .0045".)
Eager Plastics 312-927-3483
3701 South Halstead
Chicago, IL 60609
(Casting materials, resins, RTV, etc.)
Edmond Scientific Co.
101 East Gloucester Pike
Barrington, NJ 08007-1380
(Gears, motors, etc.)
Evergreen Scale Models
12808 N.E. 125th Way
Kirkland, WA 98034
(Plastic material, sheet, formed shapes)
Flagship Models
2204 Summer Way Lane
Edmond, OK 73013
(1:700 photoetched warship fittings)
Floquil-Polly S Color Corp.
4715 State Hwy 30
Amsterdam, NY 12010-9204
(Model ship scale colors)
FOTOCUT 315-662-3356
F. Hultberg
Box 120
Erieville, NY 13061
(Photo etching from your camera ready copy)
Fowler's Miniatures in Wood 916-478-8919
18175 Blue Tent School Rd.
Nevada City, CA 95959
(A dollhouse supplier, but also carries a variety of woods.
Can also do custom milling of your timber. Free wood price
list.)
Frederick W. Fawcett, Inc. 800-289-9276
1338 Ross St., Petaluma, CA 94954
(hard-laid 100% linen rigging line in many sizes)
Sample card - $1.00
Gold Medal Models
12332 Chapman Ave. #81
Garden Grove, CA 92640
(1/350 to 1/700 photoetch sets for WWII and modern ships)
Gilmor Wood Co. 503-274-1271
2211 N.W. St. Helens Road 503-274-9839 (Fax)
Portland OR 97210
(large variety of unusual woods, such as 16/4 pear, etc.)
GLOBEX (Mike Redman) 510-568-1851
6836 Outlook Ave. 510-521-5409 (Fax)
Oakland, CA 94605
(specializing in laser cutting to your plans! Has the
capability of digitizing from the plans, scaling the resulting
CAM drawings, and cutting the parts for whatever you want --
bulkhead, Hahn system, or dockyard! Also has kits consisting
of ALL parts laser cut for Hahn system, or major parts along
with wood for you to cut. Also does laser cutting for other kit
suppliers.)
H-R Products
P.O. Box 67
McHenry, IL 60051
(Manufacturer of cast naval fittings)
K&S Engineering 312-586-8556
6917 W. 59th Street
Chicago, IL 60638
(Sheet & formed metal shapes, drills, taps, dies -- Catalog
$1.00)
The Lumberyard (Dave Stevens) 216-526-2173
6908 Stadium Dr.
Brecksville, OH 44141
(Pre- and custom-cut hardwoods - pre-cut framing timbers for
HAHN models)
Details - SASE; Catalog $2.00
Nancy's Notions, Ltd. 800-833-0690
P.O. Box 683
Beaver Dam, WI 53916-0683
(source for silk thread)
Newark 800-736-6783
6473 Ruch Road
P.O. Box 27030
Lehigh Valley, PA 18002-0730
(source for silk thread)
Northeastern Scale Models, Inc. 508-688-6019
P. O. Box 727SE
Metheun, Mass. 01844
(Laid-up decking, shaped lumber - 1/4 & 1/2 round, double-bead,
stripwood)
Catalog - $1.00
Pelican Wire Co., Inc 813-597-8555
6266 Taylor Road
Naples, FL 33942
(Nichrome wire for laying up wire rope)
Phoenix Model Co. 904-754-8522
(all types of models, some non-main-line manufacturers, 15-25%
sales)
Plastruct 800-666-7015
1020 S. Wallace Place
City of Industry, CA 91748
(Sheet and shaped plastic)
Precision Scale Model Engineering 508-478-3148
33 Harding Street
Milford, MA 01757
(Tools, gears)
Roman Barzana 813-882-4925 (6:30-10 p.m. EST)
8102 N. Sheldon Rd. #1308
Tampa FL 33615
(Fine woods for the serious artist)
The Scale Shipyard 310-428-5027
5866 Orange Ave. # 3 mailto:Scals...@aol.com
Long Beach, CA 90805
(Makes fiberglass hulls for both the Gato & Balao class subs of
WW II in 1/8"=1', 1/4"=1' and 1:72 scales. These are hulls with
the fiberglass conning tower, cast resin dive planes and cast
metal guns and fittings, alot of scratch building is required
to build these and they are for the more advanced modeler but
plenty of novices have built these, they have good accuracy and
the 2 larger boats are suitable for R/C. It should be noted that
these are not kits. Their 1996 submarine only catalog is now
available for $3.00. The full catolog of the surface ships in
these same scales is available for $6.00.)
Small Parts Inc. 800-423-9009
13980 N.W. 58th Court 303-558-1255 (catalog)
P.O. Box 4650 303-557-7955 (service)
Miami Lakes, FL 33014-0650
(Gears, shapes, parts, etc.)
Special Shapes Co.
P.O. Box 487
Romeoville, IL 60441
(Small brass structural shaoes -- catalog $1.00)
Ron Stetkewicz, minaturist 518-622-8311
HCR-1 Box 61B
Cairo, NY 12413
(Photo etching from your camera ready copy)
Stock Drive Products 516-328-3300
2101 Jerico Turnpike
Box 5416
New Hyde Park, NY 11042
(Belt drives for R/C)
Van Dyke's Restorers 605-796-4425
4th Ave & 6th St. 1-800-843-3320 (orders only)
PO Box 278
Woonsocket, SD 57385
(primarily house/furniture restoration supplies, but some
odd item hard to find elsewhere -- such as MICA...useful for
model ports, windows, etc.)
Von Huene Workshop, Inc. 617-232-6288
65 Boylston Street
Brookline, MA 02146
(Boxwood! $3.oo/pound, $45 minimum, + postage. This is a maker
of musical instruments, such as recorders; this wood is of
excellent quality, but consists of pieces he can't use - off
cuts, slabs, pieces with knots and splits; still a great source
- our club bought 40+ lbs and resold individual pieces to
members at $.20/oz.)
Warner Woods West 310-326-5177 (eve. & wkends)
2083 Reynosa Drive
P. O. Box 5173
Torrance, CA 90510
(Dommestic & Imported woods, pre- & custom cuts - single, double
triple blocks)
Details - SASE
101-E. MISCELLANEOUS
-------------
AMW 207-633-3698
P.O. Box 384
East Boothbay, ME 04544-0348
(Custom display cases)
BK Engraving Co. 617-451-1483
373 Washington Street
Boston, MA 02108
(Brass nameplates engraved to order)
Eclectic Products, Inc 1-800-767-4667
(Information on contact cement (!) )
Gbishop 510-820-1986
Geoffrey Bishop
P.O. Box 874
Danville CA 94526
(Resin "dollhouse" architectural castings, but some of them can
provide sources for carved ornimental mouldings - catalog $2.00)
George M. Creations
Crane Rd. Rd 12
Carmel, NY 10512
(Museum Quality Display Cases - Free Brochure)
H&B Precision Card Models 703-281-0813
2026 Spring Branch Dr. 703-281-0813 (FAX)
Vienna, Virginia 22181-2973
(Paper model kits of ships, planes, cars, gliders, space shuttle
and dinosaurs -- catalog: $5.00 with $5.00 coupon)
H. B. Rusk Company 316-552-7381
1279 S. Minnesota
Wichita, KS 67211
(Custom oak display cases)
Hotchkiss Manufacturing 800-444-5005
484 Pleasant Valley Road 503-476-4418 (in OR)
Merlin, OR 97532
("Case Clear", cleans and glazes glass and plexiglass)
HY-TECH 301-916-2280
P. O. Box 111
Odenten, MD 21113-0111
(Fail safes, automatic light controls, water detectors,
automatic circuit breakers and voltage regulators)
Itty Bitty Builder 510-947-1572
Larry Herman
405 Kirby Court
Walnut Creek, CA 94598
(Doll house stuff, scales 1:12, 1:24, 1:48; some of the latter
might be useful for ship modeling)
J. A. Gates, Cabinet Maker 207-967-2405
P. O. Box 272
Cape Porpoise, ME 04014
(Museum quality hand rubbed cherry cases. Beautifully finished
and reasonably priced. Satisfaction guaranteed)
Jim Campbell, Artist 408-453-6173
335 W. Rosemary St.
San Jose, CA 95110
Microbrush Corporation (Mark Phillips, VP) 813-572-8444
4505 131st Avenue North #8 813-573-1028 (FAX)
Clearwater, FL 34622
(bendable applicators/brushes for reaching those hard-to-reach
places)
Rick S. Fortenberry, Owner (508) 385-4019
Cape Cod Scale Watercraft mailto:Wha...@aol.com
Construction & Restoration of Fine Watercraft Models
1335 Route 134 -POB 1459
East Dennis MA 02641-1459
("Construction & Restoration of Fine Watercraft Models")
Graham K. Salt + 44-329-239561
6 Flamingo Court
Fareham, Hampshire PO16 8PQ England
(Research Historian - Maritime/Military Commissions Accepted)
Stitkewicz Chemical Milling 518-622-8311
HCR 1
Box 61B
Cairo, NY 12413
(Small jobs, Production Jobs, Prototypes)
United States Naval Institute 800-233-USNI
Customer Service 410-224-2406 (FAX)
Operations Center
2062 Generals Highway
Annapolis MD 21401
(best selection of naval books, discounts for members)
101-F. SHIP MODEL and MARITIME DEALERS, APPRAISERS, BUILDERS, CONSERVERS
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The Admiralty Model Gallery 409-766-1777
Harbor House #28, Pier 21
Galveston, TX 77550
(Models, gifts, restorations)
All Hands On Deck 212-748-8668
Model Shipbuilding- Restorations & Repair
at The Maritime Crafts Center
South Street Seaport Museum
New York, NY 10038
Atten: Gregory J. Williams
(Build from scratch or kit scale model ships. All Hands On
Deck also builds ships-in-bottles, scale musical instruments,
and dioramas. Also repair or restore damaged models.)
Altec Plasstics, Inv. 617-269-1400
116 B Street 617-269-8484 (FAX)
Boston, MA 02127
(Acrylic displays and custom model cases)
ALNAVCO 804-442-2323
Box 9
Belle have, VA 23306
(1:1200 w1 metal warships)
American Marine Model Gallery 508-745-5777
R. Michael Wall, Director 508-745-5778 (FAX)
12-IN Derby Square mailto:wall...@aol.com
Salem, MA 01970
(Since 1975: Offering an extensive selection of fully
documented, investment grade, one of a kind ship models, by
the world's finest marine model artists. Each model is
constructed to museum quality standards. Restorations,
Appraisals, Display cases, Lighting and Custom built models.
Fully Illustrated Catalog $10.00 US, $15.00 overseas)
Ancient Mariner, Inc.
238 15th Street #13
Atlanta, GA 30309
(Antiques)
Andrew Jacobson Marine Antiques 508-468-6276
P.O. Box 2155
South Hamilton, MA 01982
("Americana . Ship Models . Out-of-print Books . Paintings .
Catalogs at Whim . Vintage Photos")
Antiques of the Sea (by appt.) 310-592-1752
16811 Pacific Coast Hwy
Sunset Beach, CA 90742-0023
Arrangements, Inc., Marine Division 914-238-1300
P.O. Box 126
Mt. Kisco, NY 10549
(Models)
Bill Thomte T/A, St Michaels 410-745-3080
P.O. Box 299
St. Michaels, MD 21663
(Nautical antiques)
David Air (by appt.) 212-925-7867
8 Beach Street
New York, NY 10013
(Model & marine art & artifacts)
Dockyard Ship Model Gallery 315-824-2462
P. O. Box 303
Hamilton, NY 13346
(Museum quality investment grade ship models)
John Johnson's Steel Navy Models 512-839-2134
2310 Lambros
Midland, MI 48642
("Contract models of 20th century ships costom built for the
discriminating collector. Specializing in USN Warships.
For an illustrated brochure send $2.00")
International Marine 800-822-8158
Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17294-0840
(books, videos, etc.) free catalog
Lannan Ship Models 617-451-3650
58 Thayer St.
Boston, MA 02118
("Ship Models Wanted")
The Military Bookman 212-348-1280
29 East 93rd Street
New York, NY 10128
Mystic Maritime Gallery 203-572-8524
Mystic Seaport Museum Stores, Inc.
Mystic, CT 06355
Rob Napier 508-462-6970
62 Marlboro Street
Newburyport, MA 01950-3130
(full- & half-hull ship models; model conservation and consultation)
North Star Gallery 212-794-4277
1120 Lexington Ave at 78th St.
New York, NY 10021
(Models)
Oliphant & Co. 212-439-0007
790 Madison Ave
New York, NY 10021
(Marine arts)
John Pignatelli 310-548-7618
Artist in Residence
L. A. Maritime Museum
Berth 84
San Pedro, CA 90731
(Hand custom crafted ship models built, restored, molds made)
Port & Starboard 207-781-4214
67 Johnson Road
Falmouth, ME 04105
(Antiques & art)
Preston 516-477-1990
Main Street Warf
Greenport, LI, NY 11944
(Dealer, nautical items)
Safe Harbor (Frank A. Wolz) 602-998-8982
5722 E. Corrine Dr.
Scottsdale, AZ 85254
(Model display cases)
Sara Conklin, ISA 415-467-6249
239 Sierra Pt. Rd.
Brisbane, CA 94005-1664
(Ship model appraiser)
Seacraft Classics 800-356-1987
7850 E. Evans Road, Suite 109
Scottsdale, AZ 85260
(Models -- free catalog)
Seafarer Ltd. 609-652-9491
Rt 9, Lily Lake
Oceanville, NJ 08231
(Free brochure, $3.00 for list)
Showcase Model Company
P.O. Box 470
State College, PA 16804-0470
Shuttleworth
P.O.Box 231
West Covina, CA 91792
(Maritime ephemera, models art & antiques)
Tall Ships (Fred E. Tournier) 303-922-9882
Master Model Shipwright
1435 S. Fenton
Lakewood, CO 80226
(Custom-built models, appraisals, repairs)
West Sea Co. 619-296-5356
2495 Congress Street
San Diago, CA 92110
(Nautical antiques and art -- free catalog)
Vallejo 714-642-7945
1610 West Coast Hwy
Newport Beach, CA 92663
(Art & antiques)
Vintage Limited, USA (Joan Scott) 714-249-8687
29761 Weatherwood
Laguna Niguel, CA 92677
(1:1200 w1 metal warships)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part08
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 08) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
38. I have a 24-inch wood scale model of a Baltimore clipper that
has accumulated a layer of dust, etc, over the past three
years. Is there any way to clean this (full rigged) model.
One way I was told was to immerse the model in warm soapy
water, then in warm rinse water. However, I have used non-
waterproof glue in building this model. Any one out there have
alternative suggestions? Thanks {mailto:radi...@aol.com}
A: NO NO! Don't immerse it! There are three main regions you
need to clean, and each requires a different technique.
1) Hull. This is usually not the worst anyway, but a damp (not
wet, damp) rag with just a drop of soap is fine here.
2) Decks, Deckhouses. If you have an airbrush, use it with
just the jet of air. Simultaneously, sweep surfaces VERY
carefully with soft camel hair brush.
3) Rigging. Use airbrush as above. Only very reluctantly, use
a small brush for any really stubborn pieces of lint or dust.
But be even more careful than for deck areas.
If you do not have an airbrush, go to a photo store and buy
one of those cans of compressed air used to clean negatives
before printing. (Don Stauffer)
***I have been watching conservators working on ship models in
the museum I work at. They use one of the cheapest cleaning
fluids available - saliva. Basically, you use a cotton swab on
the end of a toothpick (Q-tip), roll it on your tongue and wipe
the model gently. It takes a while, but you will find it works
amazingly well. It also will prevent water from destroying
your wooden model that may (probably will) happen if you
immerse it in water. I would say that a few hours of
saliva/cotton swabs would be well worth the effort if the model
is valued by you and I bet it is.
These are my views and not the museums. {mailto:acol...@mi.net}
***I would be concerned that the enzymes in the saliva might
eventually do harm to organic materials...remember the 5th
grade science demonstration where we were each handed a cracker
and told to chew it up and then hold it in our mouth for 5
minutes? The enzymes started turning the starch into sugar.
Might not the same thing hold for cellulose (perhaps working
slower)? (John Kopf)
***The enzymes in the saliva break down relatively quickly.
When you use this technique, you only use a "very" thin layer
of saliva. (I'd hate to see a big old greener on the ship).
The saliva dries in a matter of seconds and leaves only minute
quantities of enzymes. The enzymes themselves only attack
starch molecules and convert the starch to simple sugars.
Saliva should not pose any harm to wood if used in application
I described earlier. As long as the paint is not water based,
(or used starch) there should be no damage.
Interesting comment though. I might see what our conservator
has to say about about a lot of expectorate on a wooden ship
model. {mailto:acol...@mi.net}
***Just a reminder: Few if any animals have cellulose. Both
bovines and termites depend on microorganisms in their gut to
turn cellulose into simple sugars. The likely problem with
using saliva instead of water (deionized or distilled) is that
a dried mucous film may make the next layer of dust cling a bit
more tenaciously and tap water (like the hard water here in KY)
may leave a mineral haze. {mailto:sir...@iglou.com}
39: In the past I have left sails off my scale ship models because
I have yet to find a suitable material to make them out of.
If anybody has any suggestions, I would appreciate hearing
them. (Chuck Cowman)
A: A traditional material is "drafting linen"; fine linen cloth
'sized' with starch...just wash the Heck out of it and iron it
flat.
Unfortunately, it's almost impossible to find these days,
having been replaced by drafting mylar. (John Kopf)
***We static modeling type use drafting linen. Should just be
perfect at pond scales. The sizing needs to be scraped off
after boiling, though. The linen can be lightly spray-starched,
cut into bolt-wide cloths and sewed together full-size fashion.
It's great stuff. (Clayton A. Feldman, MD)
***On really small scale ships Tissue paper that you find in
shoe boxes can work well if your really careful. You fix them
to yardarm jig, turn on a fan, and set with a clear lacquer.
In larger scales I've used fine linen hankys with some sucess.
These can also be set on a yardarm jig.
{mailto:star...@tir.com}
***I think I just found a solution to this very problem. In my
case it was a set of sails for a RC schooner. I couldn't get
the sails right. I used a tight weave cotton, pure white.
Then to get the ribbing I traced the lines I wanted with a
pencil and sewed along them. Then I dyed the lot with some
stale coffee to get the right color. They really look great.
The only part I'm not satisfied with are the edge seams which I
did with a hem stitch. When I find a way around that, they'll
be perfect, but for now I will say that they look really good.
There is also a guy in rec.models.rc.water who makes sails for
people...you can look him up. (David Shein)
***You forgot to tell what scale your sailing ships are; that
makes a lot of difference. For actual pond sailing models
(about 30") of Gloucester fishing schooners I have had good
success with some plastic cut from shopping bags - not the
opaque white or colored stuff but there are some made from a
transluscent (not transparent) sort of gray, tough plastic that
is quite thin. The nice part is that you can use cement rather
than sewing. I lay a bolt rope around the edge and cement a
folded over hem leaving cringles at the corners. Such sails can
be reefed when desired, are light, do not absorb water and
avoid making the boat top heavy.
For ships in bottles, of course, nose tissues work well, can
be stained with tea, stiffened a bit with thinned shellac, and
can be drawn upon.
Unless you are working on a very large scale I expect it would
be hard to find a fabric with fine enough weave and then sew it
finely enough to avoid getting out of scale. (Albert P. Rauber)
40. ***The following section is contributed by Jon Warneke:
USN Camouflage Measures
The U.S. Navy of WWII developed numerous camouflage measures
for its ships. These were numbered from 1 to 33. These
measures were contained in a manual known as SHIPS-2,
distrubuted by the Bureau of Construction and Repair (BuC&R),
USN.
1. SHIPS-2 was first distributed in January 1941, containing
Measures 1 through 9. The colors used for these measures
are as follows:
Light Grey 5-L (replaced Standard Navy Grey of the prewar
period)
Ocean Grey 5-O
Dark Grey 5-D
Black #82
White 5-U
All of these colors were mixed from base colors of white
and black, forming greys of varying hues. The measures which
used these colors are as follows:
Measure (Ms) 1: Dark Grey System. All vertical surfaces
Dark Grey 5-D below the funnel tops, Light Grey 5-L above the
funnel tops.
Ms 2: Graded System. All superstructure parts 5-L, hull
graded with 5-L the top band, 5-O the middle band, and 5-d on
the bottom band. Each band is to be of equal width.
Ms 3: Light Grey System. All vertical surfaces Light Grey
5-L.
Ms 4: Black System. All vertical surfaces Black #82.
Ms 5: Painted Bow Wave. To be used with Ms. 1, 2 or 3, but
not Ms. 4. Upper edge of the wave is to be painted in 5-U,
and the body of the wave in either dark blue or 5-D
Ms. 6 through 8 were to use paint to made a ship look like
another (i.e. a Omaha-class CL look like a four stack DD)
with the color of the deception to be the opposite of the
general color of the ship (i.e. the ship painted in 5-D would
use 5-L for the deception).
Ms 9: Black System for Subs. Paint the entire area above
the waterline black.
2. SHIPS-2 was revised in September 1941 after testing found
that blues were more effective in camoflauge than were the
greys of the Jan. 1941 edition. The new colors were as
follows:
Haze Grey 5-H
Ocean Grey 5-O (not the same as above)
Sea Blue 5-S
Deck Blue 20-B
Black #82
White 5-U
The colors were mixed from 5-U and tinting material known as
5-TM (Author's note: I am unaware of any references
available to the modeler of the actual tint of either 5-TM or
20-TM, which was used for making Deck Blue). The measures
which were authorized under the Sept. 1941 edition are as
follows:
Ms 1 through 8: Discontinued
Ms 9: Same as above
Ms 11: Sea Blue System. All verticle surfaces Sea Blue 5-S
Ms 12: Graded System. Paint hull 5-S to the level of the
main deck (Carriers to the level of the hangar deck). Paint
superstructure to the tops of the funnels Ocean Grey 5-O.
Above the funnels Haze Grey 5-H.
Ms 13: Haze Grey System. All verticle surfaces Haze Grey
5-H.
Ms 14: Ocean Grey System. All verticle surfaces Ocean
Grey 5-O.
In all measures except Ms. 9, the decks were to be painted
in Deck Blue 20-B.
3. In June, 1942, SHIPS-2 was again revised, and new colors
were introduced, using the same ingredients as the Sept 1941
edition. The colors authorized were:
Thayer Blue 5-B
Haze Grey 5-H (not the same tint as above)
Ocean Grey 5-O (not the same tint as above)
Navy Blue 5-N
Deck Blue 20-B
Black #82
White 5-U
The measures authorized under this edition are as follows:
Ms 9: Black System for Subs. Same as above
Ms 10: Gray System for Subs. Paint all surfaces above
waterline 5-O
Ms 11 and 12: Discontinued
Ms 13: Haze Grey System. Same as above
Ms 14: Ocean Grey System. Same as above
Ms 16: Thayer System. For use in arctic regions. All
vertical surfaces White 5-U with patterns of Thayer Blue 5-B.
Ms 21: Navy Blue System. Paint all vertical surfaces Navy
Blue 5-N.
Ms 22: Graded System. 5-N from the waterline to an
imaginary line parallel to the waterline which runs through
the deepest part of the main deck, 5-O from this point up.
4. In March, 1943, SHIPS-2 was again revised, and new colors
were introduced again. The colors authorized were:
Pale Gray 5-P FS 35526
Light Gray 5-L FS 36320
Haze Gray 5-H FS 35237
Ocean Gray 5-O FS 35164
Navy Blue 5-N FS 35044
Deck Blue 20-B FS 35042
Dull Black BK FS 37040
(The FS numbers are estimates based on the author's
comparison of color chips to FS chips. The new Floquil Marine
colors provide the builder with accurate representations of
these colors.)
The Measures which used these colors are as follows:
Ms 21: Navy Blue System. Same as above
Ms 22: Graded System. Same as above
Ms 23: Light Grey System. Paint all vertical surfaces
light grey, and paint the undersides of all overhangs White
5-U.
Ms 31: Dark Pattern System. Paint all vertical surfaces
with patterns of 5-H, 5-O, and BK.
Ms 31a: Dark Pattern System. Same as Ms. 31, except that
5-N replaces BK.
2 color schemes used 5-H and 5-N
3 color schemes used 5-H, 5-O, and 5-N
Ms 32: Medium Pattern System. Paint all vertical surfaces
with patterns of:
2 color schemes used 5-L and BK
3 color schemes used 5-L, 5-O, and BK
Ms 33: Light Pattern System. Paint all vertical surfaces
with patterns of:
2 color schemes used 5-L and 5-O
3 color schemes used 5-P, 5-H, and 5-N
Measures 31, 31a, 32, and 33 were used with various geometric
patterns that were assigned design numbers reflecting the
pattern and what type of ship they were created for. Thus
"Measure 32/18d" would use the colors of Measure 32, be
geometric design number 18, and have been designed for a
destroyer ("d"). Decks were to be painted in 20-B, but many
Ms. 31 and 32 designs also had patterns of 20-B and 5-O on
the decks.
Also authorized under this edition were green colors for use
on ships. These colors corresponded with the blue colors
and were:
Pale Green 5-PG
Light Green 5-LG
Haze Green 5-HG
Ocean Green 5-OG
Navy Green 5-NG
Deck Green 20-G
These colors can also be found in the Floquil Line of Marine
Paints. The greens were interchangable with the blues in the
measures, but were mostly used on amphibious force units and
coastal forces.
5. Upon the end of the war, most of the dazzle measures were
discontinued, and those ships were repainted in Ms. 13. Other
ships in Ms. 21 and Ms. 22 remained in those mesures until
about 1947 or 1948 when they were also repainted in Ms. 13.
41. What is accurizing?
A: Accurizing is the achievement of a level of detailing and
*NEW* accuracy which the model kit does not provide. In most cases,
it means things like:
- Drilling out all the openings and gun barrels
- Making thin parts thin (aircraft cowl flaps, tank fenders,
ship railings, etc.)
- Getting square shapes square and round shapes round (this is
harder than you would think)
- Getting dimensions right, even if it means scratchbuilding
95% of the model (rare but there are times when it is the
only way)
- Getting angles and proportions right
- Getting surface detail right (with tanks and ships, this
means adding nuts, bolts, and rivets; with aircraft and
cars, taking them off) (AMPSOne {mailto:amp...@aol.com})
***Basically, accurization kits attempt (and usually succeed)
at correcting some deficiency in the injected styrene kit. In
some cases, the accurization kit is maybe a bit of resin or two
and some photo-etch. For instance I've bought a DML
accurization kit for M-48/M-60 tanks that fits this description.
In the realm of photo-etch this usually makes a lot of sense.
Replicating sheet metal vents in 1/72 or even 1/35 in injected
styrene is all but impossible.
When large amounts of resin gets involved, the accurization
kit is tackling a much more ambitious problem with the kit. A
woefully inaccurate profile of an aircraft nose, or totally
incorrect pairing of turret with tank chasis (for a particular
variant).
The only problem with these accurization kits is that most of
them are as expensive as the original kit. So in a measure of
accurization, you can easily double the price you pay for
building a particular kit. I'm not claiming that accuracy
isn't a good thing. Its just that I built more models per year
when I just built things out of the box. Admittedly, what I
was building were starships made by a company that only
believes in making toys, not accurate replicas.
(Andrew Madison)
42. I've got a 1/350 IJN Yamato that I am redoing to match a
*NEW* different configuration than that provided by Tamiya. This
involves hacking out a half-dozen gun tubs and restoring the
deck. Unfortunately, Tamiya saw fit to build the deck in two
pieces and to place parallel ridges in the deck area where the
original was wooden.
This leaves me with problem of somehow adding ridges to the
areas where I am restoring the deck, and trying to make the
ridges match seamlessly across the spot where the deck halves
join, or to somehow remove all those ridges (which would
probably not be visible in reality anyway).
My questions are:
Does anyone have experience with or suggestions for restoring
such ridges?
or:
What is the best way to remove them without damaging the rest
of the details? (Some of the wooden deck area is located down
behind various superstructure elements and would be extremely
difficult to reach.) (Robert Robinson)
***If it were me I would do the whole deck in brass!!!!!!!.
(MikeBishop)
A: ***1. Since the ridges are supposed to simulate the space
between wooden deck slats, sand down the ridges and scribe
the cracks. Plan to finish sometime after 2000 AD.
2. Use very thin stretched sprue or invisible thread. Use CA
glue sparingly to stick the thread down where the ridge
was removed.
3. Use progressively finer grades of sandpaper to remove all
ridges. After painting the deck, use a straightedge and
a very fine technical pen to draw the slots. (Bob Marek)
***I'm doing a Montana and replaced the deck with evergreen
scribed sheet. This can be found at railroad hobby shops.
It's used to make wooden buildings from scatch. Find the
sheets with the narrowest scribing. You won't find it's to
scale but looks pretty good. (Steve {mailto:sa...@aol.com})
***An interesting idea I've tried with startling results...
Replace the entire deck with real wood.
Model Railroad shops sell scribed basswood sheet that can
easily be cut to fit the hull. Cut the superstructure components
from the model's deck and cement them onto the new deck. Many
of the smaller deck details will have to be scratchbuilt, but
if you're already doing a major conversion this implies you
have the skills necessary.
Before the new deck is glued in place it should be antique
stained. Then give it a coat of tung oil. You will be pleased.
(Dave Wilke)
43. Does anyone have any really good ways to get the fuzz on model
*NEW* rigging (silk, nylon or cotton) to lay down and smooth out
without varnishing the threads so they become stiff and shiny?
(Robert Godfrey)
A: The traditional method is to draw the lines through a lump of
beeswax; this will bond all of the fibers to the line.
On the other hand, if you're talking about lines ALREADY on a
model, that IS a problem. You might want to try dissolving
some beeswax in turpentine, and paint it on the lines.
Beeswax can be found in fabric / sewing stores - used to
smooth and lubricate sewing thread. (John Kopf)
***Your friendly neighborhood notions shop (i.e. Jo-Ann
Fabrics, So-Fro, or any others of that ilk, to include Wal-Mart)
sell a bee's-wax applicator just for waxing thread. It takes
off the fuzz, gives it a semigloss shine rather than a bright
shine, and leaves the thread pliable and fuzzless. They run
less than two bucks. (Cookie Sewell {mailto:amp...@aol.com})
***The conventional way is to run the line across the edge of
a beeswax block, For very bad line, run the line *quickly*
through a candle *flame*, then do the wax treatment.
(Clayton A. Feldman, MD)
***How about pulling the threads across a wax candle and then
running them between thumb & finger?
(Simon Craven)
You could try Armor All or a like product. It has worked for
me when cleaning up older uncased models. (J. J. Gordon Jr.)
***You can also find wax at any store selling fly fishing
equipment. It is also used for waxing the thread when tying
fishing flies. (Sten Ekedahl)
***Well, what about "painting" each line with a diluted
solution of white glue? This should "harden" any fuzzballs to
the point where they'd be easier to trim, and any shininess
could be defeated with dullcoat. (John Beaderstadt)
***Thanks for the several responses and good ideas. As John
Kopf observed, I was talking about rigging already on a model,
which, as he says, is quite a different matter and more
difficult problem indeed. For example, I don't know about the
burning off fuzz with a candle flame on the rigging of a
finished model, although the idea sounds good if one were
compelled to use fuzzy line so bad beeswax wouldn't smooth it
down. (Robert Godfrey)
Final notes: If you build a model for display or sale, always sign it
in a hidden or at least non-obvious location. Never sell yourself
short. Log your hours building. Never charge less than 3xCurrent
minimum wage per hour plus materials. If your work is quality, it will
sell at those prices, and usually at a premium. If your work doesn't
meet standards (retail, decorative or museum) you will never sell
regularly. Document sources and techniques on everything you build for
(possible) sale or "prestigeous" display. Good Luck (RAlcorn824)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part09
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 09) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
100. Are there any ship modeling clubs?
List last updated 3 March 1996. (Note: entries sorted by ZIP code)
***(Also look in the back of Scale Ship Modeler Magazine. They have a
large listing of the more prominant ship modeling clubs in Canada and
the USA. -- contributed by: mailto:dav...@cml.com)
USS Constitution Model Shipwright Guild of New England Massachusetts
Meetings: 1st Tuesday of the Month
Contact: Robert D. Laslocky
16A Mayberry Dr.
Westborough, MA 01581-1342
mailto:74562...@compuserve.com
Cape Ann Ship Modelers' Guild Massachusetts
Meetings: 2nd Monday of each month, 7:30 pm
Contact: Secretary, Cape Ann Ship Modelers' Guild, Inc.
R57 Washington St.
Gloucester, MA 01930
The Marine Modelers Club of New England Massachusetts
Contact: Dean Jernstrom
838 Pond St.
Franklin, MA 02038 (508) 520-0340
Jamaica Pond Modelers' Club Massachusetts
Meetings: Saturdays, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m.
Contact: Joe Perez
P. O. Box 222
Jamaica Plain, MA 02130
Connecticut Marine Model Society Connecticut
Meetings: 2nd Friday of each month at 8:00 p.m., in Maxie Hall,
Room 103 at the University of New Haven, New Haven, CT
Contact: Richard Alexander
15 Ferryview Dr.
Gales Ferry, CT 06335 (203) 464-7462
South Orange Seaport Society New Jersey
Contact: John Gill
5 Mmead St.
South Orange, NJ 07079 770-1784
Philadelphia Ship Model Society Pennsylvania
Contact: Richard M. Austin
21 Lafferty Dr.
Cherry Hill, NJ 08002
Garden State Model Boaters New Jersey
Contact: Dave Kammerer
371 Euclid Ave.
Managsquam, NJ 08736
Ship Lore and Model Club New York
Meetings: 2nd Monday of each month
Contact: Norman Brouwer
South Street Seaport Museum
207 Front Street
New York NY 10038
The Ship Model Society of Northern New Jersey New Jersey
Meetings: 4th Tuesday of each month, Millburn Public Library
Contact: Dan Pariser
75 Livingston St. #10A
Brooklyn, NY 11201 (718) 855-1720
Model Shipcraft Guild of New York New York
Meetings: 3rd Tuesday of each month, 7:30-10:30 p.m., Battery
Park Building (next to Staten Island Ferry Slip in
Manhattan)
Contact: John Mango
2012 60th St.
Brooklyn, NY 11204
-or- George D'Elia 201-332-5631
Long Island Ship Model Society New York
Meetings: 2nd Wednesday of each Month at 8 p.m.
Contact: Hal Bosche
90 North Ocean Avenue
Islip, NY 11751
Catskill Scale Model Shipwrights New York
Contact: Joe Callejo
408 A Spillway Road
West Hurley, NY 12491
Buffalo Model Powerboat Club New York
Contact: Karl Kalb
2960 Pearce Road
North Tonawanda, NY 14120 (716) 731-9717
Task Force 50 Pennsylvania
Contact: Thomas Fooler
RD #6, Box 56
York, PA 17404 (717) 792-1831
Valley Forge Ship Model Society Pennsylvania
Contact: Ernest Morris
R.D. #4, Box 82
Spring City Road,
Phoenixville, PA 19460-1848 (215) 948-8107
Washington Ship Model Society Virginia
Meetings: 2nd Tuesday of each month
Contact: Gene Larson
9223 Presidential Drive
Alexandria, VA
22309
Hampton Roads Ship Model Society Virginia
Meetings: 20:00 hours, 2nd Friday of each month
Contact: Alan Frazer
108-G Indian Summer Drive
Yorktown, VA 23693-1034
Carolina Maritime Society North Carolina
Meetings: Last Saturday of each month at 2 pm in the North Carolina
Maritime Museum
Contact: North Carolina Maritime Museum
315 Front Street
Beaufort, NC 28516-2125 (919) 728-7317
Jacksonville Ship Model Club Florida
Meetings: 2nd Tuesday of each month
Contact: Jacksonville Maritime Museum
1015 Museum Drive, Unit 2
Jacksonville, FL 32207
North Palm Beach County Model Club Florida
Contact: Dan Seaman
119 Brookhaven Ct.
Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33418 (407) 622-8358
Tampa Bay Ship Model Society Florida
Meetings: 7:00 p.m., 4th Tuesday of each month in the Bayonet Point
Community Center in Tampa, Florida.
Contact: Walker Roberts
Box 4148
Tampa, FL 33677 (813) 875-3422
Old Frigates Ship Modelers Florida
Meetings: 1st Thursday of each month
Contact: Steve Feinman (904) 873-0663 (day); (904) 237-4968 (eve.)
Suncoast Ship Model Society of Spring Hill Florida
Meetings: 7:00 pm at Week Wuchse Acres Senior Citizen Club
Contact: Neil A Brothers
9096 Jena Rd.
Spring Hill, FL 34608 (352) 686-8640
Maritime Modelers Inc. Kentucky
Meetings: Every 2nd Thursday, Covington Fire Fighters Building
Howell Ave. and 23rd St, Covington KY 7 p.m.
Contact: Maritime Modelers Inc.
63 Linet
Highland Heights, KY 41076
Columbus Santa Maria Model Ship Builders Guild Ohio
Contact: Columbus Santa Maria Model Ship Builders Guild
c/o Richard J. Lott
4567 Westport Road, Apt. 3
Columbus, OH 43228 (614) 279-3459
Society of Model Shipcrafters of Great Lakes Historical Society Ohio
Contact: Bill Halen
4038 Ridge Rd. #4
Brooklyn, OH 44144 (216) 351-6632
The Admirals Indiana
Meetings: 2nd Thursday of each month, 6:30 pm, at Nora Public
Library, 8625 Guilford Avenue, Indianapolis, IN 46143
Contact: Earl L. Cotton (317) 888-8575
Midwest Model Shipwrights Illinois
Meetings: 3rd Wednesday of each month
Contact: The Ship Chandler
518 E. Northwest Highway
Mt. Prospect, IL 60056
Nautical Research and Ship Model Society Illinois
Meetings: 2nd Saturday of each month, @ 7:30 pm at the Rich Port
YMCA at Ogden Avenue at LaGrange Road, LaGrange, Il
Contact: Joh Pocius
189 Chandler
Elmhurst, IL 60126
North Shore Deadeyes Illinois
Meetings: 1st Tesday of each month
Contact: Lee Baur, 437 Provident Ave.,Winnetka, IL 60093
Gateway Model Ship Crafters Missouri
Meetings: At the Rock Road Library one Monday evening each month,
September through May.
Contact: Irwin Kuehling
541 Beuford Dr.
St. Louis, MO 63122-1413 (314) 644-3905
Tulsa Ship Modeler's Society Oklahoma
Contact: Dan Allis
1631 East 31st St.
Tulsa, OK 74105-2100 (918) 747-6286
Houston Model Yacht Club Texas
Meetings: weekly; they have scale R/C regattas and race 12M and
36/600 yachts.
Contact: Commodore Ted Cooper
1003 Country Club Dr.
Houston, TX 77469 (713) 342-1658
Rocky Mountain Shipwrights Colorado
Meetings: 2nd Saturday of each month (9:30-noon) at Castlewood
Public Library in Englewood, CO
Contact: Bruce Bollenbach
2838 East Eleventh Ave.
Denver, CO 80206 (303) 377-3314
-or- Dr. Bob Roberts (719) 481-2449
Maritime Modelers California
Contact: Maritime Modelers
2554 Lincoln Blvd, Suite 215
Marina Del Ray, CA 90291
Ship Modelers' Association California
Meetings: 3rd Wednesday of each month, 7 pm, Backs Community Blg.,
201 N. Bradford, Placentia, CA
Contact: Lloyd V. Warner
2083 Reynosa Drive
Torrance, CA 90501
San Diego Ship Modelers' Guild California
Meetings: 3rd Thursday, 3:00 p.m., Bark STAR OF INDIA
Contact: Danial LePage
1306 North Harbor Drive
San Diego, CA 92101
Ventura County Maritime Museum Model Guld California
Meetings: 3rd Tuesday of the month at 7:00 pm
Contact: Clare Hess, VCMM Model Guild, 2731 South Victoria Ave.,
Oxnard, CA 93035
(805) 684-3673 (evenings and weekends)
South Bay Model Shipwrights California
Meetings: 3rd Friday of Each Month, at the Stamford Linear
Accelerator
Contact: Jean Eckert
1623 Ben Roe Dr.
Los Altos, CA 94024 (415) 964-0561
=or= http://home.earthlink.net/free/gswiercz1/webdocs/sbms.html.
Diablo Model Boat Club California
Contact: Bill Vanderslick
Diablo Model Boat Club
411 Melinda Court
Pittsburg, CA 94585-3424
Metro Marine Modelers Ontario, Canada
Contact: Dan Sinstead
General Delivery
18 Reid St.
Bobcaygeo
Ontario, Canada K0M 1A0
Provincial Marine 1812 Ontario, Canada
Meetings: 3rd Thursday of each month (except Jun/Jul/Aug) at:
HMCS York, 695 Lakeshore Blvd, West Toronto, Ont., Canada
Contact: Al Griffiths
57 Thicket Rd.
Etobicoke
Ontario, Canada M9C 2C4
Winnipeg Model Boat Club Manitoba, Canada
Contact: Bob Russell 204-775-9887
Alberta Ship Model Society Alberta, Canada
Meetings: 2nd Tuesday of each month, 7 pm, NMSC NUNSUCH,
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Contact: Alan Thain
5 Gilmore Ave.
Sherwood Park
Alberta, Canada T8A 2X7
The Kelowna Model Boat Club British Columbia, Canada
Contact: Joh H. Harland
448 Avery Rd.
RR #4 S2C16
Kelowna BC V1Y 7R3 (604) 764-7364
Victoria Model Shipbuilding Society British Columbia, Canada
Meetings: Second Thursday of each month; In Summer, at large model
pond; in Winter, at Royal Oak Scout Hall.
Contact: Box 45083
Mayfair Postal Outlet
Victoria, BC, Canada V8Z 7G9
North Western Model Shipwright's Association England
Meetings: Saturdays at 11:00 am at Edge Hill Cottage, Chorley
Contact: H. R. Snape, Chairman
10 Wendover Rd.
Carleton
Poulton-le-Fylde, England FY6 7PT
The Scale Sailing Association England
Contact: The Scale Sailing Association
14 Palace Road
Crouch End
London N8 8QJ
England
NAUTICAL SOCIETIES
==================
Nautical Research Guild (U. S.) $30.00 membership
Publishes the quarterly journal Nautical Research Journal
Contact: Nautical Research Guild
19 Pleasant Street
Everett, MA 02149 (617) 389-2505
Scale Ship Modeler's Association
Clubs interested in becoming members should contact:
Matt O'Neill, SSMA Club Director
1880 Emmanual Church Rdd
Huntington, Maryland 20639
Ships-In-Bottles Association Of America California
Contact: Don Hubbard
P. O. Box 180550
Coronado, CA 92178-0550
SubCommittee
Deals with submarines of all nations and all eras, including
Science Fiction.
Contact: Lester E. Hopper, Membership Chairman
3530 Mimosa Court
New Orleans, LA 70131-8305 (504) 392-8937 FAX
Society for Nautical Research
Publishes the quarterly journal The Nariner's Mirror
Contact: Hon. Secretary Derek G. Law, Librarian
King's College London, University of London
Strand
London WC2 2LS
England
Nautical Archaeology Society
Publishes the quarterly journal International journal of Nautical
Archaeology and Underwater Exploration in association with
Academic press.
Contact: Institute of Archaeology
Gordon Square
London WC1H OPY
England
Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau
German. Publishes the quarterly journal Das Logbuch.
Foreningen Allmogebatar
Swedish. Publishes the quarterly journal Trabiten.
Klubb Maritim
Swedish. Publishes the journal Batologen six times per year.
Kontaktudvalget for dansk maritim historie- og samfundsforskning
Danish. Publishes the anual yearbook Martim Kontakt.
Marinehistorisk Selskab
Danish. Publishes the quarterly journal Marinehistorisk Tidskrift.
Contact: Marinehistorisk Selskab, Overgaden oven Vandet 58,
DK-1415 K&oslas; benhaven K, Denmark
Marinarkeologiska Samfundet
Swedish. Publishes the quarterly journal Marinarkeologisk Tidskift.
Sjo Samfundet
Swedish. Publishes the annual yearbook Forum Navale.
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part10
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 10) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
101. Where can I find... ?
101-A. RECOMMENDED BEGINNER KITS
=========================
Bluejacket: Eastport Pinky, Bluenose
Model Shipways: Phantom, Katy, Sultana
A. J. Fisher: Pilot Scooner, Lark
Model Expo: Gjoa, Swift, Scottish Maid, pinky
NOTE: This list is provided by the Nautical Research Guild.
This list is provided as a service to model builders, and the
listing of the businesses does not infer an endorsement of the
products or service by the Nautical Research Guild. Specific
references can be obtained by applying directly to the business.
Note: Catalog prices, where shown, are as listed; many companies will
send updates free once you've bought something, and may send
the first one free if you ask. Some companies will also include
a voucher in the purchased catalog that will apply the catalog
price to the first purchase.
101-B: KITS, FITTINGS, ETC.
--------------------
ABCD Industries 410-717-4111
1320 Light Street
Baltimore, MD 21230
(all sorts of rivets. You call & explain what you need. They
will ship to you.)
A. J. Fisher 313-541-0352
1002 Etowah Ave.
Royal Oaks, Michigan 48067
(Solid-hull kits, brass ship & yacht fittings, prints, books)
Catalog - $3.00
Air Land and Sea 703-684-5118
1215 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
(Out of production kits)
APC Hobbies 804-973-2705
PO Box 122
Earlysville VA 22936
(General models, 3-4 week service, 25% discount, ~monthly
updates)
Arror Graphics 416-692-4921
R.R. #1
York, Ontario N0A 1R0
canada
(Canadian flags, markings)
Amherst Minatures (W. J. Marshall) 313-485-2855
1220 S. Congress
Ypsilanti, MI 48197
(scale model warships & more)
Catalog - $2.00
Atlas Model Railroad Co., Inc. 908-687-8857
378 Florence Ave.
Hilside, NJ 07205
(Free, Fantastic Layout Booklet. For free copies,
send #10 S.A.S.E. (52 cents). )
Catalog - Free(1994)
BaD Ship Models 607-638-9266
P.O. Box 214
Westford, NY 13488
(NEW ADDRESS!!! 1:96 plank on frame kits; Brochure: $2.00)
Billing Boats A/S
Gejsing
6600 Vejen
Denmark
(makers of kits which allow one to make a model with marvelous
and true lines. Some of their fittings are not that good,
however. Their kits are carried by many US dealers and hobby
shops.
I know Billing as makers of kits which allow one to make a
model with marvelous and true lines. Some of their fittings
are below my standards, however.)
Bluejacket Shipcrafters 800-448-5567
P. O. Box 425-N 207-548-9970
Stockton Springs, Maine 04981-0425 207-548-9974 FAX
(solid hull & POF kits, brass & britannia fittings, plans,
wood, books, custom casting available)
Catalog - $2.00
Blue Water Navy 803-767-4209
P.O.Box 8421, Festival Center mailto:mbish...@aol.com
Charlston, SC 29418
(resin, white metal & etched brass kits - don't know scales;
latest is ~8.5 inch Russian Alfa Class Submarine: $35.00)
Classic Warships
Box 57591
Tucson, AZ 85732
(1:700 Warships USS California, West Virginia, Detroit, Alaska.
Italian Battleships Cavour, Littorio, Zara Cruiser. New, ship
model rulers. $3 catalog. [from Todd Hoogerland])
Cleanline Hulls 403-243-6924
1736 - 49 st 403-246-0582 FAX
Calgary, Alberta Canada T2T 2T9
(Large ship kits for RC)
C H Enterprises 805-684-3673 (Eve. & weekends)
P. O. Box 31146
Santa Barbara, CA 93130-1146
(Kits, books, tools & supplies - "Tattered Ensign")
Catalog - $3.00 (refundable); SASE for current specials
Coast Guard Models 708-437-4687
110 Essex Road
Elk Grove Village, IL 60007
(Hulls & semi-kits)
Cole's Power Models (Betty Cole)
839 E. Front St.
P. O. Box 788
Ventura, CA 93002
(Marine and other steam engines, castings, supplies)
Commander Models
551 Wegman Rd
Rochester, NY 14624
(Resin models, including BJ GAMBIER BAY)
Copeland Models
16 Dover Rd.
Hampton, VA 23666-2333
(R/C submarine kits)
Cottage Industry Models *NEW*
1632-B Ashley River Rd.
Charleston, S.C. 29407
(1:32 multimedia model of the Civil War submarine, the Hunley.
This is a very nice kit; resin kit with about 30 pieces and a
1 piece hull. They intend to make all the Ironclads that were
in Charleston, starting with the Confederates.)
Darnel Models +44 (0)923 673107
33 High Street
Watford
Herts
WD3 7AE
England
(Type VII german submarine)
Flightpath (David J. Parkins) 44-1348-831-534 *NEW*
Trefacwn Fach
Llanrhian, St. David's
Dyfed, SA62-6DP
Wales
Tel/Fax: 0348-831534
(Flower Class Corvette 1/72 scale detail set. Cost as of late
'92 was 39.90 GBP (Sterling) & 5.64 P&P overseas)
There are also a set of resin replacements available for the corvette
from another British firm....
Sirmar 44(1)384 263252 *NEW*
PO Box 127
Stourbridge, West Midlands
DY8 5XY
D&E Minatures 804-468-4687
835 Holly Hedge Avenue
Virginia Beach, VA 23452
(1:96 resin subs, including SKIPJACK; Water-tight Cylinders)
Dragon Model & Pattern 206-465-2427
231 Hull Road
Grays River, WA 98621
(1:200 resin subs -- list $1.00)
The Dromedary (Lois Roth) 915-584-2445
Ship Modeler's Center
6324 Belton Drive
El Paso, Texas 79912
(Very complete supply of kits, fittings, plans, books, lumber,
etc.) Catalog - $6.00
Dumas 602-623-3742
909 E. 17th Street
Tucson, AZ 85719
(Manufacturer of static and R/C wood & fiberglass kits)
Dynamic Models
Drawer C
Port Jefferson Station, NY 11776
(Manufacturer of kits & fittings)
Engineered Specialties
PO Box 156
Seeley Lake, MT 59868
(Submarines; 1/96 scale SSN-637, 1/72 Alfa, coming 1/48 German
Type XXI. Catalog $ 2)
Glencoe Models, Inc. 508-869-6877
P.O. Box 864
Northboro, MA 01532
(Plastic 20th century models)
GLEN-L Marine Designs 213-774-2585
9152 Rosecrans, Ca. 90706
(This company sells books, plans, videos, kits and just about
anything you want in the lines of boats. Catalog of boat
designs is ~$4.00.)
Great Planes Model Dist. Co. 217-398-3630
P.O. Box 9021
Champaign, IL 61826-9021
(R/C kit distributer)
GULFSTREAM kits are distributed by: *NEW*
Marco Polo Imports
City of Industry, CA.
(Resin Kits, including 'USS Ward'. GULFSTREAM (Mike Ashey) can
be contacted directly at 2070 Wildridge Drive, Tallahassee, FL
32303.)
Hamilton Hobby Specialists (Susan Bousfield) 905-549-1226
236 Kenilworth Ave, N.
Hamilton, Ontario L8H 4S5
Canada
(This store serves southern Ontario. They have been around for
40+ years and carry a good range of boat kits (wooden and
plastics), fittings (Billing and others), tools, and books. )
Harbor Models 714-435-0716
17457 Appalachian Street
Fountain Valley CA 92708
(The Cheddar Models line of preassembled steam engines, as well
as a large variety ofhulls and full kits sutiable for steam.)
Hartman Fiberglass R/C 217-795-2275
P.O. Box 86
Argenta, IL 62501
(Manufacturer of kits)
Hobby House's Quarterdeck
5622 Hwy 153
Chattanooga, TN 37343
(Distributer of US & foreign kits -- Catalog - $2.50)
Hobby Lobby
5614 Franklin Pike Circle
Brentwood, TN 37027
(Mail order hobby shop)
Howard Enterprises 310-547-3464
Frank's Mosquito Boat Hobbies (Frank DiMeglio)
866 W. 19th Street
San Pedro, CA 90731
(1:20 Higgens & Elco PT kits; boat upgrades & customizing)
International Marine Exchange 215-357-2163
215 Philmont Avenue
Feasterville, PA 19047
(Kits)
JAC Models 603-778-7280
2800A Lafayette Rd. #199
Porthsmouth, NH 03801
(Balsa wood models, Coast Guard boats and cutters, Victory ship
and tugboat -- Catalog: $1.00)
Laughing Whale (Inc. Midwest Boats) == NOW PART OF BLUEJACKET!
Lindberg
328 N. Westwood Ave
Toledo, OH 43607
(Plastic kit manufacturer -- 32 page catalog)
Lone Star Models
P. O. Box 770954
Houston, TX 77215-0954
(Civil War ironclads, 1/192 cast resin with brass and white
metal parts; catalog is $2.00.)
McKenzie Company 206-881-2352
P.O. Box 2766
Redmond, WA 98073-2766
(McKenzie Drift Boat model kit)
Manta Submarines
3300 Apex PL.
North Vancouver BC
Canada V7H2R5
(1:72 Scale SSN-637)
Maritime Models Greenwich + 081-858 5661
7 Nelson Road
Greenwich, London SE10 England
(Good shop, just outside the gates of the Maritime Museum at
Greenwich; catalog is 65p, but you should send a couple of
dollars + International Reply Coupons, as the cost of airmail
is high.)
Maritime Museum Models (John Pignatelli) 310-548-7618
Los Angeles Maritime Museum
Berth 84
P.O. Box 1147
San Pedro, CA 90731
(Fiberglass hulls of warships & commercial vessels)
Masterpieces in Minature
P.O. Box 387
Medford, MA 02155
MCD Model Control Devices 705-738-1335
PO Box 173
18 Reid Street
Bobcaygeon, Ontario
Canada K0M 1AO
(705) 738-1335
(Electronics - Speed controls, monitors, multi-switch devices)
Midwest Product Co., Inc 219-942-1134
400 S. Indiana St.
P.O. Box 564
Hobart, IN 46342
("Rainbow" - America's Cup J-Boat Class Racer)
call to locate nearest dealer
Model Boats Unlimited 609-783-9163
P.O. Box 1135
Haddonfield, NJ 08033
(Warship & pleasure boats)
The Model Dockyard +44 (0)1872-222120 (Phone & Fax)
Truro, Cornwall
TR1 1NN, England E-Mail: mailto:mo...@dockyard.co.uk
Model Expo, Inc. 800-222-3876
P. O. Box 1000 717-839-2090 FAX
Mt. Pocono Industrial Park
Tobyhanna, PA. 18460-9985
(Specializes in imported plank-on-bulkhead kits, some others,
fittings, books, tools)
Model Shipways Division - (well researched kits - solid hull
& POF, fittings, books specifically covering many of their
models)
Espec. Recommended - "Neophyte Ship Modeler's Jackstay" by
Campbell, and "Historic Ship Models" by zu Mondfelt)
Combined Catalog - $5.00
Model Shipways == ACQUIRED BY MODEL EXPO!
Midwest Products Co 219-942-1134
P.O. Box 564
Hobart, IN 46342
(Manufactured of small craft)
Naval Base 718-471-3226
PO Box 207
Cedarhurst, NY 11516
(One of the few sources for Nichimo 1/500 scale Japanese
warships, and have a nice catalog; Plastic/resin ships, wide
selection, ~list prices, accessories and a few books.)
Naval Works 714-646-6746
1964 Federal Avenue
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
(1:700 resin kits)
The Naval Base 516-295-9525
560 Willow Avenue
Cedarhurst, NY 11516
(They carry pretty much all of the current-production plastic
ship models. They also list the following Pre-WWII resin kits
(some scratchbuilding is required). [from Todd Hoogerland]).
( Unlike most model catalogs, the kits are grouped by catagory,
i.e. British Battleships, American Aircraft Carriers, Japanese
Subs, etc. Scales and kit manufacturers are all mixed up
within catagories, though. Prices don't look that great, but
they do have a lot of stuff most mail order places don't carry
and the novel organization by ship type is very useful.
[from Matt Melchert]).
North River Scale Models, Inc.(Jim & Marilyn Roberts)
P. O. Box 426
Dover, N. J. 07802
(POF & solid kits, cannon, linen line, brass & brittiania
fittings, re-issuing Marine Model kits - Catalog - $3.00)
Pacific Front Hobbies (Bill Gruner) 206-821-2564
11804 NE 138th 206-821-9034 (FAX)
Kirkland, WA 98034 http://users.aol.com/pacfront/
(Distributer 1:700 resin kits by Naval Works; and (mostly WWII)
aircraft and books; list price, wide selections, periodic
updates)
Pleasant Cove Models Email: mailto:gin...@pcm.ultranet.com
17-N Potter Rd http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger
Framingham MA 01701
(Wood kits of small craft, built like full size boats. Sea Bird
Yawl, Skiff, Canoes, Lobster Boats, etc. Also made to order
cases and custom machine shop work related to model boats.)
Catalog - $2.00
Precision Scale Model Engineering 508-478-3148
33 Harding Street
Milford, MA 01757
(Precision tools, materials, lights, fiber optics, pneumatics,
motors, gears, bearings, couplings and hardware -- catalog:
$3.00 - payable to Lawrence J. Milo)
Rocky Mountain Scale Subs Unlimited
4255 South Buckley Road # 120
Aurora, CO 80013
(1:50 Scale Type XXI U-boat)
The Scale Shipyard / Warship Hulls Unlimited 310-428-5027
5866 Orange Ave. #3
Long Beach, CA. 90805-4146
(WWI-present fiberglass hulls, etc., for radio control models)
Catalog - $6.00
I don't know if this is the same:
The Scale Shipyard
3727 166th Pl. S.W.
Lynnwood WA 98037-7072
(Many different subs, American, German, Japanese; Catalog $6.00)
Seacraft Classics 800-356-1987
(sorry, no address)
(USS Constitution Kit, 1/8th scale. Costs $490 for the kit)
Select Hobby Supplies 203-633-9064
P.O. Box 723
Glastonbury, CT 06033
(Dealer kits & fittings)
Ship Ahoy Models and Minatures 617-233-6134
18 Cooper St. Boston, MA 02133
(models and tools -- catalog $1.00)
Ships N'Things 908-722-0075
P.O. Box 605-D
Somerville, NJ 08876
(R/C & Static -- Catalog - $5.00 (refundable)
Scaleships (Armand Veronico) 310-822-8945
P O Box 12131
Marina del Rey, CA 90295
(large variety of fiberglass hulls)
Scale Specialties 714-535-7486
P. O. Box 1117
Fullerton, CA
(Wargaming accessories, art prints, archival documents
(declassified) )
Catalog - $5.00
Sirmar Model Ship Fittings +44 384 263252
P.O Box 127
Stourbridge
West midlands
DY8 5XY
England
(1:96 fiberglass model of U.S.S. Farion (56" long), U.S.S.
Ticonderoga (7.5" long). [from Nick Tonkin])
Slagel Models, Inc.
P.O. Box 1639
Longview, WA 98632-7791
(Manufacturer nuclear submarine resin kits)
Squadron Mail Order Phone: 214-242-8663
1115 Crowley Drive Fax: 214-242-3775
Carrollton, TX 75011-5010 http://www.squadron.com/mailorder/
(Dealer plastic kits - ships, planes, armor; General models,
fast service, list prices, monthly updates)
SWAMPWORKS MFG 417-831-2309 9-5 CDT Mon-Fri
1810 N. Farm Rd. 197 Email: mailto:SWAM...@aol.com
Springfield, MO 65802
{SWAMPWORKS MFG. offers a complete line of warship kits,
drive gear, bilge pumps, BB cannons, and CO2 delivery systems
designed just for the sport / hobby of R/C Model Warship Combat.
A package consisting of: catalog, price list, a brochure about
the hobby of R/C model warship combat, information about
contacting club members and club membership, and a copy of the
Battling and Construction rules along with the legal ship list
of the INT'L R/C WARSHIP COMBAT CLUB. is available for $6.00.)
Thoroughbred Figures
3833 Buckhorn Place
Virginia Beach, VA 23456
(1:600 white metal Civil War ironclads & ships)
Tower Hobbies 800-637-6050
P.O. Box 9078 800-637-4989 (order asst)
Champaign, IL 61826-9078
(Mail order hobby shop)
Valley Plaza Hobbies 702-887-1027
2211 Mouton Drive 702-887-1027 (FAX)
Carson City, NV 89706-0471
(Model ship kits and supplies)
Catalog - $3.00
VOCO MARINE MODEL
355 Barrington Ridge
Painesville, OH 44077
(Has released 1/87 (HO) scale kits of a Flush Deck 700 footer
and a 450' tanker in the past.)
Westbourne Model Centre 0202-763480
41 Seamoor Road 0202-763480 (FAX too)
Westbourne
Bournemouth
Dorset BH4 9AE
United Kingdom
(A UK source)
32nd Parallel 408-481-3170
P.O. Box 804
Pismo Beach, CA 93448
(manufacturer submarines, R/C)
101-C. TOOLS
-----
(Be sure to check out the FAQ for the rec.crafts.jewelery newsgroup,
as well; it's too long to incorporate here.)
Ace R/C 800-322-7121
116 W. 19th Street
P.O. Box 472
Higginsville, MO 64037
(R/C equipment)
Anchor Tools (Bill Schroeter) 201-887-8888
P. O. Box 265
Chathan, N. J. 07928-0265
(Hand tools, jewelers' supplies, Foredom)
Catalog - $4.00 (Refundable; $10 - Europe, $15 - Japan)
Blazer Corporation 212-532-1166
114 E. 32nd St.
New York, NY 10016
(micro torches)
Brookstone 603-924-9541 (ordrs - 24 hr)
127 Vose Farm Road 603-924-9511 (Cus. ser. 9-5 EST)
Peterborough, NH 03458
(Unusual tools with a number of gadgets. Nice catalog.
Brookstone has a number of stores around the country. You can
sometimes find specific items for less elsewhere.)
Calculated Industries, Inc. 800-854-8075
4840 Hytech Drive 702-885-4949 FAX
Carson City, NV 89706.
(A dimensional calculator for proportional scale modelers. The
ModelCalc has a proportional scaling key with 22 common model
scales (i.e., HO, N, G, 1:24, 1:400, +4 Custom Scales) built-in,
allowing users to simply enter the actual or prototype size (in
any dimensional format), and then find the scaled size with the
press of a button. List price of $59.95 and will be distributed
through leading modeling/hobby supply stores nationwide.)
CaRa Products 605-987-5924
P.O. Box 221
Canton, SD 57013
(R/C battery chargers)
Craftwoods 800-468-7070
2101 Greenspring Drive
Timonium, MD 21093
(Power tools, bits, knives, chisels, wood, paint, glues, vises,
wood burners and airbrushes)
Catalog - Free woodworking catalog
Dedeco International 914-887-4840
Rt. 97
Long Eddy, NY 12760-0244
(Dental abrasive tools -- free catalog)
Dremel
4916 21st Street
Racine, WI 53406
(Manufacturer of compact power hand tools, saws, sanders
-- free catalog)
Eastern Tool & Supply Co. 212-925-1006 (orders)
149 Grand Street 212-226-3749 (office)
New York, NY 10013 212-925-1010 (Fax)
(call for catalog)
Euro Tools 913-338-3131
11449 Randall Drive
Lenexa, KS 66205
(Swiss & German tools, new extra fine files -- free catalog)
Excel Hobby Blade Corp. (Mike Hammam, Pres.) 201-278-4000
481 Getty Avenue
Patterson, NJ 07503
(Scissors, vice, blades, gouges, saw blades, etc. -- free
catalog)
Foredom Electric Co.
Bethel, CT 06801
(Flex shaft & handpieces)
Gesswein
P.O. Box 3998
255 Hancock Avenue
Bridgeport, CT 06605
(Jewelers hand tools, casting equipment)
H & R
18 Canal Street
P.O. Box 122
Bristol, PA 19007-0122
(Science, R/C batteries)
Industrial Abrasives Co. 800-428-2222
642 N. 8th Street
Box 14955
Reading, PA 19612
(Sanding tools)
Jarmac, Inc. 217-789-7290
P.O. Box 2785
Springfield, IL 62708
(small table saw, 4" disk sander)
Jim Davis
8038 Oacjard Ave., N.E.
Elk River, MN 55330
(Scale Nautical Tool Co. product line)
J.F. McCaughin Co. 818-573-5781
2628 River Avenue 800-573-5781
Rosemead, Ca 91770-3395
(These people have a good inventory of tools for jewelry
manufacturing and investment casting. A very nice catalog
for the asking.)
K. H. Lee Jewelry & Craft Tools (Kenneth H. Lee) 800-435-4966
9078 Artesia Blvd. 310-920-3834
Bellflower, CA 90706
(New & used tools and equipment, some of which are useful for
modelers)
Klein Design Inc. 206-226-5937
17910 SE 110th Street 206-226-2756 (FAX)
Renton, WA 98059
(Small scale wood turning lathe, tools & videos -- catalog:
free)
Mascot Precision Tools 201-939-6700
750 Washington Ave
Carlstadt, NJ 07072
(Small hand tools) Catalog $2.00
Micro-Mark 800-225-1066
340 Snyder Ave. 908-665-9383 (FAX)
Berkeley Heights, N. J. 07922-1595
(Specializes in tools for minature & model builders; Cat.
excellent)
Catalog - $1.00 (Free with order)
Miracle Point 800-682-4256
P.O.Box 71
Crystal Lake, IL 60039
(Pliers)
NorthWest Short Line 206-932-1087
Box 423 206-935-7106 (FAX)
Seattle, WA 98111
(tools include "chopper", "True Sander", & "Dupli-cutter")
Details - free
PanVise Products (Patric O'Rourke) 702-353-2900
1485 Southern Way 702-353-2929 (FAX)
Sparks, NV 89431
(Vises)
Paul H Gesswein & Co., Inc. 203-366-5400
255 Hancock Ave.
P O Box 3998
Bridgeport, CT 06605-0936
(cutting & grinding bits)
Catalog $5.00
Paasche Airbrush Co. 708-867-9191
744 W. Lawrence Ave.
Harwood Heights, IL 60656-3497
(AIr brushes & paint booths)
PanaVise
1485 Southern Way
Sparks, NV 89431
(vises)
Preac Tool Co., Inc. (Charlie Files) 516-333-1500
512 Main St.
Westbury, N. Y. 11590-Dept. MS
(**EXCELLENT** 4"x6" table saw, small clamps, new thickness
sander) Catalog - SASE
Proedge 201-764-1120
Maple Grange Road
P.O. Box 888
Vernon, NJ 07462
Progress Machine & Tool Corp. 800-227-9775
610 South Broadway Suite 510 213-489-7262
Los Angeles, CA 90014
(cutting & grinding bits)
Royal Products 909-867-9272
P.O. Box 453 909-867-5629 FAX
31354 Firwood Dr.
Running Springs, CA 92382
(Thickness sander - free brochure)
RDA Productions 509-292-8157
P.O. Box 68
Elk, WA 99009-0068
(various parts to convert a Dremel tool into a lathe, saw, etc.)
The Sanding Catalog
P.O. Box 3737
Hickory, NC 28603-3737
(Made to order abrasive sheets)
Sherline Products, Inc (Craige V. Libuse) 800-541-0735
170 Navajo St. 619-744-3674 (outside US)
San Marcos, CA 92069 619-744-1574 (fax)
(Sherline lathes) http://www.sherline.com/sherline
Small Parts Inc. 800-220-4242
P.O. Box 4650 305-557-8222
13980 N.W. 58th Ct.
Miami Lakes, FL 33014-9727
(Small drills - down to .005 inch; "capillary" tubing (hypo
needle stock) in 18-24 in lengths; springs)
Small Parts has a lot of other interesting toys as well, including
very small wire drills ( < #80 ).
Syntax Mfg & Distributing 909-589-9811
249 S. Paseo Tesoro
Walnut, CA 91789
(Micro tourches -- free brochure)
Thayer Chandler 708-816-1611
28835 N. Herky Drive
Lake Bluff, IL 60044
(New Vega 2000 airbrush -- catalog available)
Thurston Manufacturing Co.
45 Borden Street
Providence, RI 02903
(Minature saw blades)
Tools for Model Makers
3 Arlington Street, Drawer S/S
Rochester, NY 14607
(minature clamps)
Wood Carvers' Supply, Inc. 800-284-6229
P. O. Box 7500 (813-698-0123 - Inquiries)
Englewood FL 34295
(Fine knives, chisels, Foredom tools, books, sanders)
Woodworkers Supply
1108 North Glenn Road
Casper, WY 82601
(Carvers tools)
Xuron Corporation
60 Industrial Park Road
Saco, ME 04072
(Pliers, scissors, cutters, photo etch cutters -- free catalog)
Zona Tool Company 800-696-3480
P. O. Box 502 800-299-4208 (FAX)
Bethel, CT 06801
(distributer for Berna Assembler, call to locate nearest
retailer)
(This question is continued in Part 10)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part14
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 14) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###################################################
104. What's available on the internet?
A. LOTS!
What's available depends on what "access methods" you have
available.
NOTE: I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
regular basis. Thus, I may not know if they "disappear". If
you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
please send me Email at: mailto:ko...@aimnet.com ; I'll check
it out and delete the reference if it's really gone. Thanks.
NOTE: See part 01 for the interpretation of these addresses.
LIST SERVERS
############
These are available via Email; they're essentially newsgroups for Email:
Seaways Publishing, Inc. is pleased to sponsor this multi-specialty
nautical research list,"infonaut-list", in hopes of bringing together
the talents and resources of nautical and maritime historians,
shipmodelers, nautical archaeologists, marine artists, archivists,
museum specialists, full-size replica designers and builders and all
others interested in the design, construction and operation of ships
and boats. All eras and types will be discussed.
To subscribe (or unsubscribe):
mailto:infonaut-l...@lists.best.com
To subscribe, send the one-word message "subsingle"; this
request format will get you each individual message. If you
would rather get the list messages in groups, send the message
"subscribe" instead, and you will get the digest form of the
list (It will be mailed out about once a day).
Questions or suggestions about the list can be sent to Clayton Feldman
at:
mailto:clay...@best.com
They also sponsor a second special e-mail list for shipmodelers,
"shipmodel-list", in hopes of bringing together the talents and
resources of all kinds of shipmodelers in one place to discuss workshop
problems. All eras and types will be discussed, static and operational,
and all materials will be welcome. This should be the perfect place to
compare construction techniques, materials, adhesives, fixing and
finishing agents, sources for plans, data and materials, tools and so
forth. This is the nuts and bolts list (or rather the treenails and
rivets list). To subscribe (or unsubscribe):
mailto:shipmodel-l...@lists.best.com
...In the body of the message, state:
To subscribe, send the one-word message "subsingle"; this
request format will get you each individual message. If you
would rather get the list messages in groups, send the message
"subscribe" instead, and you will get the digest form of the
list (It will be mailed out about once a day).
The Cyberspace Model Yacht Club, A Model Boating Forum, courtesy of Dave
Mainwaring. *NEW*
The focus is on Operational Models powered by Sail, Steam or Electric
power. Marine Modelers, Scale and Semi-scale Model Boat Builders, Radio
Control Yachting (sail) enthusiasts and others interested in model
boating activities are encouraged to take part in the forum.
This is a forum for the recreational modelship builder to discuss model
building, model regattas, and club activities.
TO SUBSCRIBE: send the following email (mailto:majo...@cybercom.net):
TO: majo...@cybercom.net
subject:
text:
subscribe model-boating {your-email-address}
There is an nautical archaeology list called SUB-ARCH. To subscribe to
SUB-ARCH:
mailto:LIST...@ASUVM.INRE.ASU.EDU
with no subject and the following text:
SUBSCRIBE SUB-ARCH {your name here}
MARHST-L is an INTERNATIONAL electronic discussion group sponsored by
the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston with the assistance of
Queen's University at Kingston. Subscription is free, and subscribers
will automatically receive messages in their computer mailboxes:
mailto:LIST...@QUCDN.QUEENSU.CA
with no subject and the following text:
SUBSCRIBE MARHST-L (your name)
TALLSHIP (Sailing and Operation of Traditional Sailing Vessels):
mailto:LISTSERV%VCCSCEN...@VTBIT.CC.VT.EDU
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
subscribe tallship {your name}
...only.
SHIPS (current maritime activity):
mailto:ships-...@access.digex.net
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
Subscribe Ships {your name}
...only.
SEAROOM-L (discussions of the books of Patrick O'Brian):
mailto: LIST...@NETCOM.COM
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
Subscribe SEAROOM-L
...only.
YACHT-L (sail racing):
mailto:LIST...@HEARN.BITNET
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
SUBSCRIBE YACHT-L {your name}
....only.
MARITIME NETWORK is a biweekly newsletter focusing on communication,
networking,and database news within the maritime community.
Submissions and articles are welcomed. To subscribeo:
mailto:MARITIME NET...@DIAMONDLT.COM
---I don't know if this is the same as the next item...
OTHER
There is a COMMERCIAL service called Diamond Light Ocean Services, an on-line
marine information provider. If you're interested, contact:
mailto:admini...@diamondlt.com
-- Fee is $12.50 per month, with one hour free access/(24-hour)day.
Advanced Access
===============
USENET NEWS GROUPS
##################
Note: These may not all be carried on all servers!
Check out:
news:rec.models.scale (english, general topics)
news:rec.models.rc (english; RC models)
news:rec.models.rc.water (english; RC models)
news:de.rec.modelle (German)
news:t-netz.modelbau (German)
news:zer.t-znet,modelbahn (German)
news:fj.rec.models (Japanese)
Useful stuff can also be found in:
news:rec.woodworking
news:rec.boats
news:rec.boats.building
news:rec.boats.paddle
news:rec.boats.racing
news:rec.crafts.metalworking
news:rec.jewelery
news:sci.archaeology
FAQs
####
Many of these groups have FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions) available:
The rec.crafts.metalworking FAQ can be found at:
http://www.paranoia.com:80/~filipg/HTML/LINK/Metal_idx.html
.. and is archived at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/~metal/index.html .
The rec.woodworking FAQ's can be found in the directory
ftp://ftp.cs.rochester.edu/pub/archives/rec.woodworking/ .
FAQ's can also be accessed via the WWW. The main WWW FAQ archive
site is at:
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/FAQ-List.html
...and This FAQ is maintained at:
http://www.seaways.com/faq/faqind.html !!!
FTP access
##########
Navy Ships: An (IMMENSE!!) list of current ships by type, archived at:
ftp://byrd.mu.wvnet.edu/pub/history/military/USN .
"R/C OnLine", An Electronic Magazine for the R/C Modeler (R/C OnLine is
published monthly on the 15th, or so; each issue is a .ZIP file), at:
ftp://ftp.gate.net/pub/users/rconline .
GOPHER access
#############
"Canoe/Kayak" at:
gopher://ftp.std.com/11/nonprofits/canoe.kayak/ .
"US Naval Fighting Ships" at:
gopher://wiretap.spies.com/11/Gov/US-History/Naval .
"Pictures of United States Navy Ships", The navy has a web site that
has a large (>160) collection of images on line. Earliest are
paintings or drawings, but there are photos from surprisingly early.
All ships are pre-WWII. Index at:
gopher://gopher.nara.gov/00/inform/dc/audvis/still/navy.txt
Images at:
gopher://gopher.nara.gov/11/inform/dc/audvis/still/navy .
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part13
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 13) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###############################################
103. What are some good books... ?
A: What you will consider a "good book" depends GREATLY upon the
period and style of modeling you do -- a book on plastic
submarines will prove of little use if you are researching
ships of ancient Egypt.
Instead, the following list(s) are by general topic. Prices,
where shown, indicate the book is currently in print. these
are the LIST price; such books are frequently available for
much less in "remainder" book sales or as used books.
RECOMMENDED BOOKS
-----------------
"The Neophite Shipmodeller's Jackstay", George F. Campbell; Softbound,
62 pages
Probably the best basic introduction to wooden shipmodeling.
"Ship Modeler's Shop Notes", Nautical Research Guild; Softbound, 216
pages, ($19.95)
Practical book for all ship modelers; a compilation of shipmodeling
articles from the Nautical Research Journal.
SHIPMODELING TECHNIQUES
-----------------------
"The Ship Model Builder's Assistant", Charles G. Davis; Softbound, 288
pages ($6.95)
Detailed descriptions and drawings of masts, rigging, and major
fittings of American clippers and packets.
"the Built-Up Ship Model", Charles G. Davis; Softbound, 256 pages
($6.95)
A detailed guide to building a ship model, in this case the brig
Lexington (American, 1775).
"Plank-onFrame Models", Harold A Underhill, Brown, Son, and Ferguson,
1960.
Two volume set detailing the building and rigging of the Brigintine
Leon.
"Modeling the the Brig Irene", E. W. Petrejus, N. V. Uitgeversmasschappi
"Ed Esch", Holland, 1970.
"Boat Modeling the Easy Way A Scratch Builder's Guide", Harold H.
"Dynamite" Payson; Paperback, 195 pages, illustrations, photographs,
8 1/2 x 11 ($19.95) ISBN 0-87742-320-2
"Boat Modeling with Dynamite Payson - A Step-by-step Guide to Building
Models of Small Craft", Harold H. "Dynamite" Payson; Paperback, 182
pages, 280 illustrations, 8 1/2 x 11, ($19.95)
"Ship Modeling from Scratch - Tips and Techniques for Building Without
Kits", Edwin B. Leaf, Paperback, 184 pages, drawings, 7 3/8 x 9 1/8
($17.95) ISBN 0-87742-389-X
"Building Plank-on-Frame Ship Models", Ron McCarthy; 8vo, 192 pages,
illustrated, Conway Maritime Press, London, 1994 ($34.95)
"Shipbuilding in Miniature", by Donald McNarry, New York, Arco 1983
ISBN 0-668-05800-5
"Ships in Miniature", by Lloyd McCaffery, Cedarsburg, Phoenix
Publications 1988 ISBN 0-9615021-3-4
"Building Warship Models", P. C. Coker, 313 pages, illustrated, R. L.
Briant Company, Columbia, South Carolina, 1974; ISBN 0-914432-01-X.
PERIOD SHIP RESEARCH
--------------------
"Navy Board Ship Models, 1650-1750", John Franklin; Hardbound, 192
pages, 150 photos, 16 color plates($36.95)
Survey of dockyard models, their construction and function.
"Shipcarver's Handbook", Jay S. Hanna, Hardcover, 108 pages, 7 1/8 x
10 (17.95) ISBN 0-937822-14-0
Design and lettering, set-up and carving techniques, woods, tool
sharpening, finishing and gold leafing (full-size modern practice).
"Ashley Book of Knots", Clifford W. Ashley, Hardcover, 610 pages, 8 3/4
x 11 1/4 ($50.00) ISBN 0-385-04025-4
Standard reference work on knots, splicing, etc.
RIGGING ETC.
"The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritesail Topmast, 1600-1720",
R. C. Anderson, Conway Maritime Press, England, 1984.
"The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815", Brian Lavery,
Conway Maritime Press, England, 1987.
Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860", James Lees,
Conway Maritime Press, England, 1984.
"The Construction and Fitting of the English Man-of-War 1650-1850",
Peter Goodwin, Conway Maritime Press, England, 1987.
Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier", Harold A.
Underhill, Brown, Son, and Ferguson, Scotland, 1946.
"The Americal FIshing Scooners 1825-1935", Howard I. Chapelle, W. W.
Norton & Company, New York, 1973.
Covers all aspects of the "Glochester" fishing schooners and their
fittings.
SPECIFIC SHIP AND SHIP-TYPE RESEARCH
------------------------------------
"Old Ironsides - The Rise, Decline and Resurrection of the USS
Constitution", Thomas C. Gillmer, Hardcover, 239 pages, photographs,
7 1/2 x 9 1/2 ($24.95) ISBN 0-87742-346-6
"Die Kieler Hansekogge, der Nachbau eines historischen Segelschiffes
von 1380", Baykowski, U., RKE-Verlag, Kiel 1991
"The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships", C. Nepean Longridge, Model & Allied
Publications, England, 1955.
Primarily concerned with building a model of H.M.S. Victory, but
lots of useful information on Napoleonic War practices.
"Conway's History of the Ship, The Age of the Galley", originally
published by Brassey's (UK) ltd. 1995. Published in the US/Canada by
the Naval Institue Press, 1995. ISBN 1-55750-024-X.
There are some good articles, with enough reconstructed detail to
use as a basis for modeling bronze age-sixteenth century galleys
(mostly warships).
The Anatomy of the Ship series of books. Each volume covers a specific
vessel (list $32.95 each)
The Aircraft Carrier Intrepid
The Aircraft Carrier Victorious
The Type VII U-Boat
The Type XXI U-Boat
The Destroyer Campbeltown
The Cruiser Belfast
The Destroyer Escort England
The 74-Gun Ship Bellona
The Submarine Alliance
The Battleship Warspite
The Battleship Yamato
The Destroyer The Sullivans
The Cruiser Bartolomeo Colleoni
The Frigate Diana
The 20-Gun ship Blandford
The Susan Constant, 1607
The Armed Transport Bounty
The Royal Yacht Caroline
The Bomb Vessel Granado, 1742
The following reviews are from John Berg:
The 20-Gun Ship Blandford by Peter Goodwin. Naval Institute Press,
Annapolis, 1988. Hardback, 119 pages, 9.5 inches high by 10.5. $36.95.
Drawings, plans, model photos. ISBN 0-87021-058-0.
Provides superb graphics. The Blandford, while not quite the
size of the HMS Surprise, a 5th rate like the Surprise and
gives the detailed drawings of the ship's hull, deck
arrangement, and rigging. Invaluable to modelers, too.
The Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 by Peter Goodwin. Naval Institute Press,
Annapolis, 1989. Hardback, 125 pages, 9.5 inches high by 10.5. $36.95.
Many drawings, plans, model photos. ISBN 0-87021-178-1.
Useful to both the scratch-build modeler and the reader of
Forester who wants to know more about the bomb vessel.
Provides insights about Jack Aubrey's first command, the Sophie,
since the Granado is also a 14 gun, brig-sloop with a
quarterdeck and stern windows. [See also page 6, col. c.]
Captain Cook's Endeavour by Karl Heinz Marquardt, Anatomy of the Ship
Series, 138 pages, hardback, 224 illustrations, $36.95.
The Endeavour, made eternally famous by Captain Cook's first
voyage on her in 1768-71, was chosen by Cook because of her
strong construction. The author describes her build and rig
based on information found in the Endeavour's journals, a mine
of previously unused, primary-source information.
The Armed Transport Bounty by John Mckay, USNI, 1989, 120 pages, many
photos, drawings, plans, and detailed sketches, $36.95.
A member of the Anatomy of the Ship series with the usual
superb graphics. Thanks to a reproduction built in Australia,
the book has many photos as well. Patrick O'Brian uses the
Anatomy of the Ship books and models to visualize action
about ships.
The Schooner Bertha L. Downs by Basil Greenhill and Sam Manning, 1995,
hardback, 128 pages, 250 Illustrations. 9.5 by 10.25 inches. The
Anatomy of the Ship Series, Naval Institute Press, ISBN 1-55750-790-2,
$36.95.
The North American schooner Bertha L. Downs was one of the many
large four-, five-, and six-masted schooners built on the banks
of the Kennebeck River at the end of the nineteenth and the
beginning of the twentieth centuries. These huge wooden
vessels were almost universally employed in the coastal trade,
chiefly taking coal from Virginia to New England. Contains
superb drawings and much new material about the life of the
vessel.
Bertha L. Downs was launched in 1908 and after ten years in
the lumber and coal trade was sold to Danish owners, renamed
the Atlas, and like a number of her contemporaries made a
profitable living through the 1920s and 30s. She was finally
broken up in 1950 in Germany having spent forty-two years
working under five flags.
Close cousins to the Anatomy of a Ship series is the Conway Ship Types
series. Excellent large graphics and superb research
The Bomb Vessel, Shore Bombardment Ships of the Age of Sail by Chris
Ware, 1995, hardback, 128 pages, 100 illustrations, 10.75 by 10.75
inches. Conway Ship Type Series, $38.95.
In the Horatio Hornblower stories, the bomb vessel represented
a specialization of the warship into a floating siege engine
carrying huge shell-firing mortars for the purpose of
bombarding stationary targets.
The Heavy Frigate, Eighteen-pounder Frigates: Volume 1, 1778- 1800 by
Robert Gardiner, 1995, hardback, 128 pages, 80 illustrations, 10.75 by
10.75 inches. Conway Ship Type Series, $38.95.
The first of two volumes specifically devoted to the large
single-decked cruising ships armed with 18-pounder guns. First
introduce during the American Revolution, the frigates grew
rapidly in size, number, importance and becoming the typical
frigate of the Nelson era that we read about Patrick O'Brian's
Aubrey Maturin series.
[Not in the format of the Anatomy series but a superb reference on the
Victory and written specifically for the modeler of HMS Victory: large
foldout drawings.]
ANATOMY OF NELSON'S SHIPS by C. Nepean Longridge, 1956, hardback, 283
pages, 7.5 by 9.75 inches. Naval Institute Press, ISBN 0-87021-077-7,
$39.95.
A truly splendid reference. By creating this book for the
serious model builder of the HMS Victory, Longridge packed an
immense amount of detail about Nelsonian ships in general and
the Victory in particular. A Patrick O'Brian fan will "see"
more clearly the action described after reviewing the hundreds
of illustrations, the scores of clear photographs, and the
detailed plans, many which foldout to the size of 4 and 6 pages
in area, in this book. What is a truck, why catharpings,
where's the kevel, how the channels are supported, what's the
location of the spirketting, and the purpose of the limber
passage.
One photograph shows the wardroom as a bright, attractive room
with officer cabins on either side. Another photograph of the
ship's entry port reminded me of the entry way into aircraft
carriers which have gangways leading into the side rather than
to the weather deck. It made clearer the image of the many at
anchor receptions described by O'Brian and Forester. One
incongruous photograph shows WWII damage suffered by the
Victory from a German aircraft bomb. For the modeler,
everything is included in this one book, hull, standing
rigging, running rigging, modeling tips, and construction of
special tools and jigs. The immense index contains over 1200
entries.
The following is from Clayton A. Feldman, MD:
A Personal Research Library:
============================
Anglo-American Sailing Vessels of the Eighteenth Century (With
Commentary)
The problem confronting beginning and intermediate ship modelers is
quite straight forward: For both, the major pitfall is error
compounding error. Increasing awareness of this negative process tends
to be followed by frustration, wheel-spinning attempts at ongoing
correction and finally exasperation and dropping-out. The problem often
results from the limited availability of readily accessible guidance.
This in turn leads to poor choice of subjects for modeling and rather
random, undirected library building. Without at least a purpose-built
library (and better yet, some form of mentoring in addition), failure
to understand the limits of one's personal knowledge rapidly puts the
modeler into the unfortunate state described above, precluding accurate
and effective work. What then can be done to prevent such talent-wasting
scenarios from developing?
If one could control the entry point into ship modeling for the
beginner, the job would be relatively easy. One would select a simple,
quality kit -- a sloop or schooner from a quality manufacturer and one
book, probably George Campbell's "A Neophyte Ship Modeler's Jackstay", as
the starting package.
This would permit the beginner to get the look and feel of the hobby
with a bit of guidance and see if it appealed to him. If it did, he
would then be encouraged to purchase a bit more advanced kit, together
with a small library consisting of (in this author's opinion) one book
and two articles. The book is the Merritt Edson- edited "Ship Modeler's
Shop Notes"; in it are excellent chapters on research and ship
selection for modeling as well as innumerable articles on construction,
tools and processes.
The two recommended articles are Charles O. McDonald's "Books as a
Key to Modeling Success" (Nautical Research Journal, Vol.31, No.1, pp
17-36) and Peter Sorlien's article "Before the Chips Fly, A Few
Thoughts to Guide the New Ship Modeler" (Scale Woodcraft, No.6, 1986,
pp 23-29). The first article is a master book collector's personal
guide to library building for ship modeling and nautical research. It
philosophically suggests that the library builder is well-served by
sticking to one general era and not many different types of vessels and
by rather ruthlessly limiting his library to that era and type. The
second article is a general introduction and guide to the selection of
kits, the understanding of the basic research process and the general
philosophy of proper ship modeling.
This second ship modeling project and its associated library expansion
would start the process of converting the hobbyist into a sort of
scholar craftsman. From here on, or perhaps after a couple of more kit
models, it would be all library building and scratch modeling or
serious kit bashing, with the personal library being the primary source
for the basic research.
It should be noted that the library suggestions above and those to
follow form a basic library only for mid-late eighteenth century small
and medium-sized Anglo-American vessels, the author's personal area of
interest. Other times and places require different libraries and a bit
of research before beginning book purchases. One must also realize that
much of the information for these smaller vessels is interpreted and
derived from the primary source material for larger vessels, thereby
expanding the library somewhat beyond that which seems 'ruthlessly'
related to the small vessels themselves. In any event, here we go:
First: The Ruthless TWO BOOK Library:
1. Chapelle, Howard I., The Search for Speed Under Sail,
W.W. Norton Co.Inc., New York, 1983.
2. Petrejus, E.W., Building the Brig-of-War Irene. "De Esch",
Holland, 1970.
Outrageous, you say? Not at all. At least half of all the interesting
smaller American vessels of the era are found well-drawn and described
in this particular Chapelle work. They are interesting because they
were fast and therefore were used in interesting applications, mostly
as privateers and smugglers. Although Chapelle's text is almost totally
undocumented, for which he has come under revisionist historian attack
recently, he is extremely detailed, generally authoritative, a
marvelous draftsman and a most adequate source of information gathering-
type basic research. Serious research, however, can never end with
Chapelle.
The Petrejus book is practically a single volume encyclopedia. It
contains historical research, magnificent engravings and prints,
contemporary (always remember, in academic historical parlance,
contemporary means at the time of the historical period under study,
not modern times (eg, then, not now) construction techniques, rigging
and fitting data, spar tables and very detailed modeling techniques all
in one. Applied specifically to the modeling of a Dutch revision of an
early nineteenth century English brig, it applies quite generally to
our era and type and is a very good source for further library research.
And Then: The Compleat (almost) Two Foot Library:
A fairly complete plans source, historical database, and modern and
contemporary practices reference library can be had by the addition of
another fifteen books to those previously described. Carefully placed
notes about the house prior to birthdays and holidays can greatly
assist in the speed of acquisition. The books are:
1. Steel, David, Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging
(1794), Sweetman Reprint, Largo, Fla.,1983.
2. Lever, D'arcy, The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor. (1819),
Sweetman Reprint, New York, 1963.
3. Steel, David, The Elements and Practice of Naval
Architecture, 1805. Sim Comfort Reprint, London, 1977.
4. Chapman, F.H., Architectura Navalis Mercatoria, 1768,
Sweetman Reprint, New York, 1967.
5. Gill, Claude S. (editor), The Old Wooden Walls: Their
Construction, Equipment, etc. Being an abridged edition of
FALCONER'S Celebrated Marine Dictionary. W&G Foyle, Ltd.,
London, 1930.
6. Millar, John F., Early American Ships. Thirteen Colonies=20
Press, Williamsburg, Va., 1986.
7. Chapelle, Howard I., The History of the American Sailing=20
Navy, W.W. Norton Co.Inc., New York, 1949.
8. Chapelle, Howard I., The History of American Sailing Ships,
W.W. Norton Co.Inc., New York, 1935.
9. MacGregor, David R., Fast Sailing Ships, Naval Institute=20
Press, Annapolis, 1988.
10. MacGregor, David R., Merchant Sailing Ships, 1775-1815,=20
Argus Books, Ltd., Watford, Herts, England, 1980.
11. Lees, James, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of=20
War, 1625-1860, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, 1984.
12. Goodwin, Peter, The English Man of War, 1650-1850, Naval=20
Institute Press, Annapolis, 1987.
13. Lavery, Brian, The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of=20
War, 1600-1815, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, 1987.
14. Harland, John and Meyers, Mark, Seamanship in the Age of=20
Sail, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, 1985.
15. Howard, Dr.Frank, Sailing Ships of War, 1400-1860, Mayflower
Books, New York, 1979.
Most of these books are still in print or in re-print editions. The
Gill Falconer, or one of the other Falconer reprints, will have to be
sought out in a nautical used book store. Lacking rich and generous
relatives, one may have to find a library for accessing Steel's Naval
Architecture.
With these volumes added to our historical research and plans sources,
we complete the basic documentation of American naval and private
vessels. The two additional books from Chapelle contain extensive
historical and naval architectural data and scores of the best drafts
of American vessels ever drawn. The Chapman book is the single most
valuable collection of contemporary plans, unfortunately few of which
could be considered American. They are, however, essentially generic
types, divided by nautical design and use, by (European) nation of
origin and by size. Chapman also has very nice sail plan drawings.
A very enjoyable American vessels scrapbook, the Millar book has
over two hundred copied and/or reconstructed drawings of colonial and
Revolutionary era American vessels available for perusal, together with
brief historical summaries of the lives of the vessels. It is often a
good place to begin one's search for a choice of modeling projects. The
two MacGregor contributions are the scholarly delineation of the
English side of our era's smaller vessels as the Chapelle works are for
the American side. To these books must be added the basic primary
contemporary sources on rigging and spar-making (Steel and Lever), the
general mini-encyclopedia of eighteenth century naval architecture
(Falconer), and the not-to-be-done-without (but very expensive) Steel's
Naval Architecture, the only primary source available for actual
dimensions and scantlings (the size of the smaller timbers) for the
smaller vessels. This latter listing is actually a pair of books, the
reference book itself and a magnificent over-size folio of large scale
engravings of interesting ships of the era.
The modern standard compendium of masting and rigging is Lee's book,
that for construction is Goodwin's and for fittings, Lavery. The
Harland-Meyers book provides a great many otherwise missing details by
both describing and sketching a great many processes showing how the
ship and its equipment were actually used. Frank Howard provides a
general overview of the era in a very good book ("Sailing Ships of
War"), which misses being a great book only by lacking an index.
New books for the research library are appearing at a rapid rate, and
the would-be library builder must often decide within a fairly short
span of time whether or not to buy, as single edition production runs
are common. In the past few years alone, we have seen Brian Lavery's
two books on the ships of the line, a whole slew of Conway Publishing
volumes in the Anatomy of the Ship series, the magnificent Jean
Boudriot series on a wide variety of French vessels of this era,
Franklin's book on Navy Board models, and a modest number of reprints
of eighteenth and early nineteenth century reference books -- Steel,
Falconer, Sutherland, Fincham and others, if you want names to look
for. Most of these books are available from the book shops andj mail
order hobby suppliers who advertise in "Seaways' Ships in Scale".
Although these suggestions are mainly for a reference library, one
would be remiss in not mentioning at least a few books that deal
largely with model construction techniques. Of course much valuable
construction information is available in the Edson and Petrejus volumes
mentioned above. "Ship Modeler's Shop Notes" is useful for models of
all types, with information on built-up lift models as well as plank-on-
frame. It also is crammed with time-proven techniques for block and
spar making, casting metal fittings, making rope, painting, coppering
and just about everything else the modeler needs to know. Modeling the
Brig of War Irene is similarly useful and broad-based. The hull
technique described is the lift method of solid hull building, but the
fitting, finishing, spar making, etc. techniques are universal in
application and the details are especially useful for smaller-than-ship-
of-the-line vessels.
For plank-on-frame modelers there are two additional recommendations,
the old favorite "The Built-Up Ship Model" by Charles Davis and the
very well received fairly recent work of Harold Hahn, The Colonial
Schooner. The former is fifty years old, written in a charming style,
and full of very useful construction and research data hints the size
of gunports, the height of sills, the weight of anchors, etc. It is
also full of anachronisms and is itself based on an error of
identification, Davis having substituted an English brig of the turn of
the century for the American Revolutionary War converted merchant brig
"Lexington". The hull construction techniques are universal and very
easy to understand and the drawings are wonderful.
Hahn's work has turned his slightly simplified style of P-O-F building,
admittedly a model maker's convention rather than an exact reproduction
of contemporary practice, into the middle-of-the-road standard. Widely
used by modeler's, this technique, using several jigs for building the
frames and a unique fixture for holding the frames upside down in place
during construction, provides for excellent continuity of form and
alignment of frames as the hull is built.
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part12
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 12) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###################################################
102. Where can I find information... ?
A. There are a number of research sources available.
NOTE: This list is provided by the Nautical Research Guild.
This list is provided as a service to model builders, and the
listing of the businesses does not infer an endorsement of the
products or service by the Nautical Research Guild. Specific
references can be obtained by applying directly to the business.
BOOK COMPANIES
--------------
Antheil Booksellers
2177 Isabelle Court
N. Bellmore, NY 11710
Anthony J. Simmonds 011-44-81-853-1727
23 Nelson Road 44-081-858-4422
Greenwich, London SE10 9JB 44-081-312-6632
England
(antiquarian, new and used books on all aspects of naval and
maritime history)
Antiquarian Archive 415-949-1593
379 State Street
Los ALtos, CA 94022
(Used books, search services)
Armchair Sailor Bookstore
Lee's Warf
Newport, RI 02840
(New and used general maritime)
Bill Corkhill 203-445-0883
21 Country Club Road
Grotton, CT 06340
The Bookstore 800-331-BOOK
Mystic Seaport Museum Store
Mystic, CT 06355
(New and used books)
Centaur Forge Ltd. 414-763-9175
117 North Spring Street 414-763-8350 (FAX)
P.O. Box 340
Burlington, WI 53105-0340
(The company sells blacksmiths & horseshoers' supplies, but the
catalog contians an extensive list of books, some of which --
on topics such as casting, metalworking, engraving, etc. -- may
be of interest -- catalog $5.00)
Coastal Forces
136 West Broadway
Bangor, ME 04401
(Books & plans)
Columbia Trading Company 508-362-8966
504 Main Street (Rt. 6A)
West Barnstable, MA 02668
(Large selection of out-of-print books from stock of 10,000
books) Catalog - Free
Connecticut River Books 203-873-8881
Goodspeed Landing
East Hadam, CT 06423
(Used and rare books)
Contact Market Research Corporation 792-256-4913
9030 West Sahara Avenue #408 702-256-7297
Las Vegas, NE 89117
(book, "HMS Victory - How to Build A Masterpiece in 1:96 Scale")
Cornell Maritime Press 410-758-2478
P.O. Box 456
Centreville, MD 21617
(New books on contemporary maritime)
Crawfords Nautical Books 703-534-8521
5520 North 16th Street
Arlington, VA 22205
Cross Hill Books
P.O. Box 798
Brunswick, ME 04011
Hallenbook 518-392-4526
County Route 9 518-392-4557 (Fax)
P.O. Box 357
Chatham, New York 12037
(Books and videos)
J. Tuttle 608-238-SAIL
1806 Laurel Crest
Madison, WI 53705
(Out-of-print and Rare Books about the Sea, Ship & Sailor)
Jean Boudriot Publications
Ashley Lodge
Rotherfield, East Sussex TN6 3QX, England
(New & facsimily reproductions on European sail)
Edward J. Lefkowitz, Inc. 508-997-6839
Box 630 (508-996-6407 Fax)
Fairhaven MA 02719
(Ships & the sea: rare, antiquarian & select reference books)
Linsey Publications Inc. 815-935-5353
P.O. Box 538 Email: mailto:QBC...@prodigy.com
Bradley, IL 60915-0538
(Specializes in reprints of "unusual technical books of
exceptionally high quality revealing skills and secret
processes almost forgotten." -- free catalog)
Naval Institute Press 800-233-8764
2062 Generals' Highway, Preble Hall
Anapolis, MD 21401-6780
(numerous books, discount to members)
Pier Books (Dave & Sandy Roach) 914-268-5845
P. O. Box 5 mailto:ro...@ldeo.columbia.edu
Piermont, NY 10968
(Excellent selection of used & new ship modeling & nautical
books; knowledgable)
Phoenix Publications, Inc. 414-377-7888
P. O. Box 128
Cedarburg, WI 53012
(Publishers of ship modeling books)
Brochure - free
Rocky Mountain Shipyard 970-434-0703
590 Ronlin St. mailto:rlno...@iti2.net
Grand Junction, CO 81504-5570
(books & plans; new books from several publishers, including
Naval Institute Press, Conway, Jean Boudriot, Dover,
International Marine, Phoenix, Pictorial Histories, Mystic
Seaport, and Brown, Son & Ferguson. Stock plans from and/or
by: David MacGregor, Portia Takakjian, Edward Neubauer, Alan
Bates, John Fryant, William Crothers, Computer Lofting, Al
Ross, Edward Wiswesser, Robert McCandliss, Vanguard Model
Marine, plus plans for R/C combat (1:144 scale). )
catalog is $4.00
St. Andrews Books 803-772-4551
Tom & Jill Bettendorf
P. O. Box 210756
Columbus, SC 29221
(used books)
catalog (77 p.) - $3.00
Ten Pound Island Book Co. 508-283-5299
76 Langsford St. mailto:tenp...@world.std.com
Gloucester, MA 01930
(books, marine art, antiques & instruments, logbooks, maps
and charts) -- catalog - free
W. Wiegand & Co.
Box 563
Glastonbury, CT 06033
(Out-of-print Maritime Books -- free catalog)
Catalog - free
Wisconsin Maritime Museum Mariner's Gift Shoppe 414-684-0218
75 Maritime Drive 414-684-0219 (Fax)
Manitowoc, WI 54220
(write for book list)
MAGAZINES & PUBLICATIONS
------------------------
American Boat Modeler (R.C.)
P.O.Box 427
Mount Morris, IL 61054
The American Neptune
The Peabody Museum of Salam
161 Essex Street, East India Square
Salem, MA 01970
(Academic)
Fine Scale Modeler
Kalmbach Publishing Co.
P.O. Box 1612
Waukesha, WI 53187
(Mainly plastic -- $19.95)
The Flag Bulletin 617-729-9410
The Flag Research Center 617-721-4817 (FAX)
P.O. Box 580
Winchester, MA 01980
(bi-monthly journal on flag research; offer asistance to identify
or locate a particular flag)
Live Steam
P.O.Box 169
Traverse City, MI 49685
(Steam Engines, including full-size and model steam boats).
Marine Modelling
Traplet House, Severn Drive
Upton-on-Severn, Worcestershire WR8 0JL
England
The Mariner's Mirror
Derek G. Law, MA Dip.Lib., FLA
Hon. Secretary, The Society for Nautical Research
Librarian, King's College London
University of London, Strand, London WC2R 2LS
England
(Academic)
Model Ship Builder
Phoenix Publications, Inc. 414-377-7888
P. O. Box 128
Cedarburg, WI 53012
Subscription - 1 year (6 issues): $23; 2 years: $43
Model Shipwright
Conway Maritime Press Ltd.
101 Fleet Street
London EC4Y 1DE
England
(English Quarterly)
Subscription - available through The Dromedary; 1 year: $36.00
Nautical Collector 703-550-6609
P.O. Box 16734
Alexandria, VA 22302
(Collectables & maritime history)
Nautical Research Journal
152 Brayton Rd.
Brighton, Mass. 02135-3049
Subscription - 1 year (4 issues): $25; all subscriptions begin
in January.
Plastic Ship Modeler
PO Box 2183
Arvada, CO 80001-2183
(Primarily geared to resin builders, but the articles are of
interest to any warship fans - Quarterly; $15.00 US/$20.00
overseas per year.)
Radio Control Boat Modeler
P.O. Box 443
Mount Morris, IL 61054-9858
The Scale Cabinetmaker 703-382-4651
Dorsett Publications, Inc.
P.O. Box 2038
Christiansburg, VA 24073
(Woodworking & tools - dollhouse scale but useful techniques
1 year (4 issues) $22.00)
Scale Ship Modeler
P. O. Box 16149 818-760-8983
No. Hollywood, CA 91606
(mostly modern & RC)
Subscription - 1 year: $26.50
Sea History
National Maritime Historical Society
P.O. Box 68
Peekskill, NY 10566
(Nautical Heritage - $30.00)
Seaways - Ships in Scale
Seaways Publishing, Inc. 408-978-5657
2271 Constitution Dr.
San Jose, CA 95124
Subscription - 1 year: $24.95; 2 years: $46.50
The Egregious Steamboat Journal, Inc. 502-778-6784
Steamboat Masters & Associates, Inc. (Jack E. Custer)
P.O. Box 3046
Louisville, KY 40201-3046
(Bi-monthly)
Subscription - 1 year: $20.00
SubCommittee
Colonel Lester E. Hopper, AUS(Ret)
SubCommittee Membership Chairman
3530 Mimosa Count
New Orleans, LA 70131-8305
RC Submarines - Subscription: $26.00.
U.S. Boat & Ship Modeler
898 W. 16th Street
Newport Beach, CA 92663
Warship International
5905 Reinwood Drive
Toledo, OH 43613
Wooden Boat 207-359-4651
P.O. Box 78
Brooklin, ME 04616
(Full size boats)
Le Chasse Maree
Scop Le Chasse-Mar'ee
Abri du Marin
B P 159
F-29171 Douarnenez Cedex
FRANCE
(the French journal on traditional watercraft)
PLANS
-----
Americal Merchant Marine Museum
Kings Point, NY 11024
(Photos)
Capt. Pete Culler's Plans, George "S" Kelley 508-775-2679
20 Lookout Lane
Hyannis, MA 02601
(Schooners, contemporary designs)
Cartographic & Arch. Br. (NNSC)
National Archives
Washington, DC 20408
(Naval Plans prior to 1945)
Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum
St. Michaels, MD 21662
(Plans of local boats)
Commander (NSES-09B21)
NavalSea Systems Command
Department of the Navy
Washington, DC 20362-5101
(Naval Plans after 1945)
Computer Lofting
470 Hillcrest Pl. #5
Friday Harbor, WA 98250
(Computer generated plans)
details - SASE
Capt. Pete Culler's Plans 508-775-2679
George "S" Kelley
20 Lookout Lane
Hyannis, MA 02601
(101 traditional designs)
price list - $1.00
John Fryant Plans Service
6508 Dorset Drive
Alexandria, Va. 22310-3018
(Model builders plans for riverboats, tugs, bargs and ferries.
Illustrated catalog & price list available listing plans for
thirty five vessels. Price $4.00 U. S.& Canada; $5.00 overseas.)
Floating Drydock mailto:dry...@postoffice.ptd.net
c/o General Delivery http://www.usbusiness.com/drydock/
Kresgeville, PA 18333 (Tom Walkowiak) 610-381-2004 FAX
(Plans photos & books, mainly warships of WWII; catalog $4.50)
Eric A. R. Ronnberg, Jr.
P.O. Box 410
Rockport, MA 01966-0410
(Boston Pilot Scooner HESPER of 1884)
Essex Shipbuilding Museum
28 Main Street
Box 277
Essex, MA 01929
(Plans for Schooner EVELINE M. GOULART, 1:48, $20.00;
P&S +$3.50)
Great Lakes Historical Society
480 Main St.
Vermillion, OH 44089
(Plans and photos of great lakes shipping)
Harold M. Hahn
1212 Gordon Rd.
Lyndhurst, Ohio 44124
(Plans of a number of Colonial-period ships, drawn by Hahn for
modelers -- Send (business size) SASE for price lists.)
Hart Nautical Collections 617-253-5942
The MIT Museum
265 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, MA 02139
(General archival plans)
Mariners Museum
Newport News, VA. 23606
(Photos, a few plans)
The Mariners' Museum Research Library 804-596-2222 *NEW*
100 Museum Drive 804-591-7310 FAX
Newport News, Virginia 23606-3759 mailto:tmm...@infi.net
http://www.mariner.org/mariner
(There is a $10.00 (US dollars) charge for all Library research
requests. There is a minimum Chris-Craft research fee of $15.00
(US dollars). )
Maryland Silver Company 410-647-9634
P.O. Box 6220
Anapolis, MD 21401
188 p. Catalog - $9.00; Product & Price list - $4.50;
Civil War Maps Catalog - $2.50
Mosquito Boat Hobbies 619-949-9814
Bob Sattler
7173 Locust Ave
Hesperia, CA 92345
(PT Boats)
Mystic Seaport
Mystic, CT 06355
(Plans, photos)
National Maritime Museum Association
Bldg. 275, Crissy Field, Presidio of SF
San Francisco, CA 94129
(plans: Steam Schooner WAPAMA 1:96 $20; Scow Schooner ALMA
1:48 $16; monterey fishing boat WETTON 1:12 $16; + $4
shipping (US), $8 overseas)
New Jersey Historical Society
230 Broadway
Newark, NJ 07104
(Collection of plans for oyster boats of S. New Jersey)
Peabody Museum
East Indoa Square
Salem, MA 01970
(Photos)
Philadelphia Maritime Muesum
321 Chestnut St.
Philadelphia, PA 19106
(Photos)
Public Record Office 0181-876-3444
Kew 0181-878-8905 (FAX)
Richmond
Surrey TW9 4DU
England
Steamship Historical Socciety Collection
University of Baltimore Library
1420 Maryland Ave.
Baltimore, MD 21201
(Photos)
Thousand Islands Shipyard Museum
350 Mary St.
Clayton, NY 13624
(Plans for St. Lawrence Skiffs)
Musee de la Marine (33)-1-45533170
Palais de Chaillot (33)-1-47274967 FAX
17 place du Trocadero (33)-1-47550383 (documentation service)
75116 PARIS
France
(The national maratime museum of France; plans available,
including a number of plans designed for ship modelers)
This (French Navy) organisation of "Musee de la Marine" is in charge of
3 or 4 smaller museums in France like in Brest (Britanny):
Musee de la Marine (33)-98221239
Chateau Prefecture Maritime (33)-98433054 FAX
29200 BREST
Beside of this a French "Mystic Sea Port" (much smaller) is in Britanny at
Port Musee (33)-98926520
place Enfer (33)-98920541 FAX
29100 DOUARNENEZ
Interesting stuff can be found at Marseille (Cote d'Azur) which was a
Greek emporium founded some 2500 years ago. The best is to contact
Mairie (Direction des Musees) (33)-91562838
2 rue Charite (33)-91906301 FAX
13002 MARSEILLE
The Plan Shop (02) 81 2820
64 Victoria Rd, -or- 008 232 705
Drummoyne, (02) 81 3565 (FAX)
Sydney, NSW 2047
AUSTRALIA
(They are actually an arcitectual establishment (houses & the
like), but they order ship plans in from the U.K. (delivery to
anywhere in Australia). The owner aparently has a model ship
interest. )
P. Young
P.O. Box 1228
Lebec, CA 93243
(WWII Subs)
Repla-tech International
P. O. Box 461000, Cole Branch
Los Angeles, CA 90046-4146
(Plans - mostly modern navy - ask for Scale Ship catalog)
Catalog - $3.00
Smithsonian Institution
Division of Transportation, Room 5010, -or- Division of Naval History,
National Musuem of American History room 4017
Washington, DC 20560
Ship Plans
Maritime Collections
NMAH-5010/Mrc 628
Smithsonian Institution
Washington, DC 20560
(ask for The Maritime Administration Collection of Ship Plans
(1939-1970) I think it is $5.00)
Taubman Plans Service International 201-435-5205
11 College Dr., Box 4G 201-985-0438 FAX
Jersey City, N. J. 07305
Very complete plan service, books, research info., MAP plans
- Catalog - $6.50 + $3.50 1st class or $2.00 3rd class shipping;
also has Wiswesser catalog of Warships, Liners, and Merchant
marine for an additional $1.00. Inquiries - send SASE.
Vanguard Model Marine
P.O. Box 708, Station B
Ottawa, Ontario K1P
Canada
Western River Workboats 606-836-1431
1010 Turley Avenue
Flatwoods, KY 41139
(Plans and videos for Inland River Pushboats and Barges
-- Catalog $4.00)
Wisconsin Maritime Museum 414-684-0218
75 Maritime Drive 414-684-0219 (Fax)
Manitowoc, WI 54220
(write for plan list of 19th & 20th century Great Lakes vessels;
plans are typically $7.00 per sheet)
SOURCES FOR PHOTOGRAPHS
-----------------------
*****Liners
Liner Graphics
P.O.Box 29083
Portland, OR 97229-9083
*****Steamboats
Rock Hill Steamboats
Box 402
Louisville, KY 402?
Ralph R. Dupai
Univ of Wisconsin
LaCross Area Res.
Center Murphy-Murphy Library
LaCross, WI 54601
Public Library of Cincinnati & Hamilton County
800 Vine St.
Cincinnati, OH 45202-2791
*****Tugboats
Tugboat Photo & Research
2861 Bardy Road
Santa Rosa, CA 95494
*****Naval
U. S. Naval Institute
Library & Photographic Service
Annapolis, MD 21401
National Archives & Record Service (GSA)
Still Pictures Branch
Washington, DC 20408
L. C. Van Ginderen
Korte Dykstraat 3
2008 Antwerpen, Belgium
INRO
Warships International
1729 Lois Court
Toledo, OH 43613
Real War Photos
P.O.Box 728-S
Hammond, IN 46320
SeaPhoto mailto:SeaP...@aol.com
1145 Oakwood dr.
Millbrae, CA 94030
(photographs taken on board US Navy and other vessels for the
purpose of modeler's documentation. A catalog is $ 5 US /
$ 8 overseas.)
INSTITUTIONS
------------
Caution: in most cases, these are staffed by archivists and librarians,
sometimes with little actual knowledge of the collection.
Be as explicit as possible when making requests -- "tell me
about Clipper Ships" will get you nowhere, whereas "do you
have any information on the Clipper ship 'Rainbow'" is MUCH
more likely to get some sort of response.
Also, these institutions have been hard-hit by the
government "down-sizing", expect LONG delays in responses!
(The majority of the following sources are taken from "Naval History
Resources in Washington DC", by Dana M. Wegner, Western Ship Model
Conference, 23 March, 1996.)
Ships Plans
Most existing USN ships' plans 1776-1949, gun plans, maps, and
patent drawings:
o U.S. National Archives
Cartographic Archives (NNSC)
Washington, DC 20408
(301) 713-7040
{mailing address; documents are located at the National
Archive II, 8601 Adelphi Road, College Park, MD 20740-6001}
The only source for ships' plans within the Navy for ships built
after 1949:
o Director of Congressional and Public Affairs
Naval Sea Systems Command
Washington, DC 20362
(703) 602-1575 (703) 602-4982 FAX
Plans of some USN ships 1776 to about 1917, full sized copies
of Hiward I. Chappelle plans (catalog available):
o Division of Armed Forces History
Museum of American History
Smithsonian Institution
Washington, DC 20560
(202) 357-2250
Plans for USN small boats:
o Small Boats published periodically by BuShips and NAVSEA
since about 1910.
o The book, Standard Boat Designs for the U.S. Navy, 1900
Reprint by Elliot Press, 1995/96
Plans for USN small boats and coastal craft:
o Naval Sea Combat Systems
Engineering Stations
835 Philpotts Road
Norfolk, VA 23513
(804) 444-9160
Plans of regional and commercial ships including Liberty,
Victory, and MarAd vessels (catalogs available):
o Division of Water Transportation
Museum of American History
Smithsonial Institution
Washington, DC 20560
(202) 357-2025 (202) 357-4356 FAX
Plans for commercial ships:
o National Maritime Museum Association
Bldg. 275, Crissy Field, Presidio of SF
San Francisco, CA 94129
(415) 556-3002 FAX (415) 556-1624
EMAIL: mailto:SAFR_Marit...@nps.gov
o Essex Shipbuilding Museum
28 Main Street
Box 277
Essex, MA 01929
Records
For pension records, steamship inspection reports, census
records, historic motion pictures, etc.:
o U.S. National Archives
Washington, DC 20408
(202) 501-5400
{mailing address; some documents may be located at the
National Archive IIor regional archives nationwide}
Military service records before 1917, agency correspondence,
official reports, etc.:
o U.S. National Archives
Military Records Branch
Washington, DC 20408
(202) 501-5385
Military service records after 1917. You must be related to the
person. Write only:
o National Personnel Records Center
9700 Page Avenue
St Louis, MO 63132
Photos and Prints
Ships, people, and places, 1776 to about 1949:
o Naval Historical Center
Photographic Branch
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374-5060
(202) 433-2765 (202( 433-3593 FAX
o U..S. Naval Academy Museum
118 Maryland Avenue
Annapolis, MD 21402
(410) 293-2108 (410) 269-7940 FAX
{Not a Federal agency}
USN ship, 1945 to present:
o Naval Imaging Command
Washington, DC 20362
Ships, yards, etc.
o U.S. National Archives
Still Picture Branch (NNSP)
Washington, DC 20408
(310) 713-6800
{mailing address; documents are located at the National
Archive II, 8601 Adelphi Road, College Park, MD 20740-6001}
Ships:
o The Library of Congress
Washington, DC 20540
Historical Data
Histories of every U.S. Naval ship until publication date:
o Dictionary of American Naval FIghting Ships, 9 volumes,
published by the Government Printing Office 1959-1991
Ships histories after Dictionary (above):
o Naval Historical Center
Ship's History Branch
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374
(202) 433-3643 (202) 433-3593 FAX
U.S. Navy deck logs:
o Naval Historical Center
Deck Log Section
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374-5060
(202) 433-0824
All unclasified USN log books (index available):
o National Archives
Military Records Branch (NNR1)
Washington, DC 20408
(202) 523-5385
Navy classified operational records post WWII:
o Naval Historical Center
Operational Archives Branch
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374-5060
(202) 433-3224
Navy cruise books:
o Naval Historical Center
Navy Department Library
901 M Street SE
Washington, DC 20374-5060
(202) 433-4133
Interlibrary Loan
o The Navy Library
Washington Navy Yard
Washington, DC 20374
o The Library of Congress
Washington, DC 20540
Individual ships/ship types
o National Liberty Ship Memorial
(supports the liberty ship SS Jeremial O'Brian)
415-441-3101
Other Sources
o Maritime Archaeology and Historical Society
PO Box 44382
L'enfant Plaza
Washington, DC. 20026
o Lake Champlain Maritime Museum
RR#3 Box 4092
Vergennes, VT 05491
(802)475-2022
o Society for Historical Archaeology
P.O. Box 30446
Tuscon, AZ 85751-0446
Other Countries
Belgium
o Nationa Scheepvaartmuseum
Steenplein 1
Antwerp, Belgium
Canada
o Marine Muesum of the Great Lakes at Kingston
55 Ontario Street
Kingston, Ontario K7L 2Y2
Canada
(Plans and photos)
o B.C. Museum Association
514 Goverment St.
Victoria, B.C.
V8V 4X4
Canada
o Public Archives of Canada
Map COllection
295 Wellington
Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0N3
Canada
(Plans and photos)
Denmark
o Rigsarkivet
Rigsdagsgarden 9
1218 Kobenhaven K (the "o" is actually "o" + "/")
Denmark
England
o National Maritime Muesum
London SE10 9NF
England
(Plans and photos)
o Liverpool Maritime Museum
Albert Dock
LIVERPOOL, L3 4BB., UK.,
telephone 051 207 0001.
o Science Museum
Exhibition Road
South Kensington
London SW7 2DD
o The Boat Museum
Dockyard Road, Ellesmere Port
South Wirral, Cheshire L65 4EF
Phone: (0151) 355 5017
Fax: (0151) 3554079
Open: Daily in the summer; closed Thurs & Fridays in
winter
Displays: A big dock complex at ends of the Shropshire
Union & Manchester Ship Canals was restored
from dereliction. It is now a museum with a
collection of over 50 inland waterway boats,
with little coracles, barges, narrow-boats,
ice-boats, tugs & dredgers.
o National Waterways Museum
Llantony Warehouse
The Docks, Gloucester GL1 2EH
Phone: (01452) 318054
Fax: (01452) 318075
Open: daily
Displays: Models, engines & machinery, hands-on exhibits,
illustrate 200 year history of inland waterways.
Historic craft at quayside. Boat trips, horse-
wagon tours, crafts displays, cargo handling &
storage. AV shows. Shop. British Waterways
Archives.
o The Glasgow City Archivist
Strathclyde Regional Archives
City Chambers
Glasgow G2 1DL
Scotland
o Museum of Transport
25 Albert Dr.
Glasgow G41 2PE
Scotland
France:
o Musee de la Marine
Palais de Chaillot
Place due Trocadero
F75016 Paris France
Germany
o Bundesarchiv
Wiesentalstrasse
7800 Freiburg
Germany
Italy:
o Ministero della Marina Militare
Ufficio Propaganda e Informazione
Lungotevere Arnaldo Da Brescia
00100 Roma (Italy)
o Marina Militre
Museo Storical Navale
30122 Castella
2148 Venezia, Italy
Holland
o Rijksmuseum Nederlandse Schepvaart Museum
Department of Ship Draughts
Kattenburgerpleing 1
1018 KK Amsterdam
The Netherlands
Norway
o Norsk Sjofartsmuseum
Bygdoynesvn 37
Oslow 2, Norway
(plans and photos)
Spain:
o Museo Naval
C/Montalban #2
28071 Madrid Spain. FAX 5231850. Telephone 3795299
o Disputacion Provincial de Barcelona
Museo Maritimo
Barcelona
Spain
Sweden
o Staten Sjohistorisk Museum
Djurgardsbruunsvagen 24
11527 Stockholm
Sweden
(plans and photos)
o Military Records Office
Krigsarkivet
Box 80038 S-104 50
Stockholm
Sweden
(Naval plans)
John Kopf
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part15
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 July 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 15) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.
###################################################
105. What's available on the WWW?
A. LOTS!
This section is for WWW (access using Lynx, Mosiac, Netscape,
etc.).
NOTE: See part 01 for the interpretation of these addresses.
NOTE: I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
regular basis. Thus, I may not know if they "disappear". If
you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
please send me Email at: mailto:ko...@aimnet.com ; I'll check it
out and delete the reference if it's really gone. Thanks.
"Maritime History": a GREAT!!! WWW location, maintained by Lars
Bruzelius:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/Nautica.html .
(He also has additional resources at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/ ,
...one of which is a set of pointers to other maritime sites at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/www/Nautica/Pointers.html .)
"The Information Seaway" (Clay Feldman's Seaways' Ships in Scale page)
is at:
http://www.seaways.com .
It includes a link to a Seaways "chat room", for exchange of
information.
"South Bay Model Shipwrights", at:
http://home.earthlink.net/free/gswiercz1/webdocs/sbms.html .
"The Cyberspace Model Yacht Club", at: *NEW*
http://www.cybercom.net/~mainwaring/modelboating.html .
"Gig Harbor Model Yacht Club", at: *NEW*
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Kelly_Martin .
Information on the "Nautical Research Guild" (brochure, etc., have been
placed on:
http://www.icubed.net/usr/dbrown .
Information on Bronze casting can be found at: *NEW*
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/brnzcaster ,and at
http://plains.uwyo.edu/~metal/casting.html .
"Miniature Ship Models", 1/2400 and 1/3000 scale waterline *NEW*
ships, at:
http://www.cabm.rutgers.edu/~hooper/miniatures/bill/navmod24.html .
"Seattle Model Yacht Club", at: *NEW*
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Larry_Robinson/homepage.htm .
"CY Online" (Canadian Yachting magazine), is proud to announce its
partnership with the CANADIAN RADIO YACHTING ASSOCIATION, at:
http://www.canyacht.com/canyacht .
You will find the Traplet Publications site (publishers of Marine
Modelling) at:
http://www.traplet.co.uk/traplet/
...and specifically Marine is at:
http://www.traplet.co.uk/traplet/MMM.html .
"A Guide to Maritime History Information on the Internet", at:
http://ils.unc.edu/maritime/home.html .
"RC-Sailing Infocenter" (RC Sailboats, from Finland), at:
http://honeybee.helsinki.fi/surcp/rcsail.htm .
"From Keel to Truck - De la quille a la pomme du mat - Vom Kiel zum
Flaggenknopf - De Quilla a Perilla - Dalla Chiglia al pomo dell'Arbero" =
-- an excerpt of captain Paasch's famous dictionary of maritime terms.
At:
http://www.refer.fr/termisti/data/vergues/index.htm .
"The World of the Vikings" This is an excellent guide to Vikings
resources on the Internet:
http://www.demon.co.uk/history/vikings/vikhome.html .
"Viking Navy" home page (thoughts on Viking ships), at:
http://www.digalog.com/viking/ .
"Nautica On Line" (Nautica is the first italian yachting magazine
(over 30 years old) and Nautica On Line is the *first* italian yachting
magazine - perhaps the first in Europe - going on the Web.) At:
http://www.mclink.it/nautica .
"MC-Link Nautical Home Page", at:
http://www.mclink.it/n/nautica/indice.htm (Italian Version).
"Minesweeper" (the game), at:
http://www.linc.or.jp/~hamano/game/minesweeper.html
"National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS)", at:
http://kingfish.ssp.nmfs.gov/ .
"Berkeley Digitak Library SunSite" permits you to search a large list
of on-line libraries:
http://sunsite.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/searchsite .
Thomas Register. Yes! it's online and you can search it too! The URL is:
http://www.thomasregister.com/ .
"The Woodworking Catalog", at:
http://www.woodworking.com/ .
"The Nautical Fiction List" (and related files),
"Great Encouragement to Boatwrights",
"Design and Construction of Centerboards and Rudders", and
"Mail-Order Sources for Nautical Books" can all be accessed via:
http://www.efn.org/~jkohnen/nautical.html .
The Story of the Titanic, a recapture of the basic facts about the
ship and the catastrophy. At:
http://www.ida.his.se/ida/~a94hango/titanic.chtml .
"RMS Titanic 83 Years Later". The Virginia Newspaper Project examines
the news; covering the sinking of RMS Titanic, April 14, 1912; at:
http://www.lib.virginia.edu/cataloging/vnp/titpref.html .
"Canadian Maritimes '95" - A cruise of the schooner Black Pearl, the
ketch Christobal, the frigate Rose, and other ships northwards via the
Canadian Maritimes, at:
http://www.image-earth.com .
The rec.models.scale FAQ (the non ship-model specific version) is
archived at:
http://msowww.anu.edu.au/~dfk/scale-model.html .
"rec.models.scale Home Page", at:
http://meteor.anu.edu.au/~dfk/scale_model.html .
There's a page on Photo Etching at: *NEW*
http://phoenix.bath.ac.uk/~justinw/two_mm/etch/etch.html .
"Bay Area Electric Boaters" (Tampa Bay, FL), at: *NEW*
http://members.gnn.com/tinybeetle/baeb.htm .
"Trireme Olympics", at:
http://www.eng.ox.ac.uk/~cascrd/trireme.html .
"U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group". at:
http://www.swcp.com/usvmyg
"Art's Home Page" (includes RC boats), at:
http://www.biddeford.com/~agertlof .
"The Home of the Big Gun R/C Warship Combat", at:
http://www.pacificnet.net/~rkehr/big-gun1.htm .
"R/C Warship Combat FAQ", at: *NEW*
http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/HTML/RC/F_Ship_Kombat.html .
"R/C Ship Combat Scenes" (Note: This display is temporary) at: *NEW*
http://alpha.smi.med.pitt.edu:9000/combat/welcome.html .
"Model Boats", at:
http://www.bendigo.net.au/~jstein/mboat.html .
"Welcome to Tugboat.COM", at:
http://www.tugboats.com .
A group of RC ship modellers in Australia, who build scale *NEW*
warships at a constant 1/72 scale have set up a page of info at:
http://www.healey.com.au/~mkear/tf72.html .
"PMCG's Vicious Model Boat Page", at:
http://www.tiac.net/users/pmcg/boat.html .
"electric Racing" page from Germany: *NEW*
http://user.aol.com/matthiasbo/index.html .
"Friends of the Schooner Model Society", at:
http://www.pittelli.com/schooner/ . While there, check out:
http://www.pittelli.com/warship , and:
http://www.pittelli.com/st.michaels/ .
R/C Submarines, at:
http://home.aol.com/dmeriman .
"Ships In Bottles Home Page" (From Artem Popov in Russia);
mailto:ipar...@redline.ru :
http://194.85.117.36/R_CLUB/H_PARK/SHIP/ship_e.htm .
"TOP 10 WEB RESOURCES for rec.models.scale"; pointers to other sites.
at:
http://www.phoaks.com/phoaks/rec/models/scale/ .
"Urban Fredriksson's paint matching tables", at: *NEW*
http://msowww.anu.edu.au/~dfk/tech/colour.html .
Ship Model Dealers and Suppliers
================================
"ABL SHIP MODELS" 'builds all kinds of scale ship models to order. All
models are from kiln dry mahogany, accurately and carefully hand built.
We have been producing models for 20 years and have been exporting to
the United States for 8 years.', at:
http://www.transend.com.tw/~stuart/abl/index.html .
"Billing Boats" of Denmark featuring a model kit of the Bounty *NEW*
and their Wasa model kit, at:
http://bud.peinet.pe.ca/ECMC/bil490.html ;
A five plan set by Erik A.R. Ronnberg, Jr, of the fishing *NEW*
schooner Evelina M. Goulart, built in 1927, at:
http://k12.oit.umass.edu/masag/3208r.html .
"Epcom Communications", a maritime recording studio, at:
http://www.cygnus.nb.ca/epcom//index.html .
"Floating Drydock" has a page at:
http://www.usbusiness.com/drydock/ .
(email:dry...@postoffice.ptd.net) .
"FX Models"; operational and static miniatures for movies/productions
and sale of submarine kits for display/operation. At:
http://www.thenerve2.com/fxmodels .
"Hobby Link Japan", at:
http://msowww.anu.edu.au/~dfk/companies/HLJ/hlj.html .
"King RC Online Hobby Shop", at:
http://www.twinds.com/kingrc/kingrc.htm .
Metal Buyers Mart is your source for small quantity metal
(for catalog, mailto:MBM...@aol.com), at:
http://www.execpc.com/~metal .
"Nature Coast Hobby Shop" mail order historic wood ship models, at:
http://naturecoast.com/hobby . *NEW*
"Pacific Front Hobbies Web page", at:
http://users.aol.com/pacfront/ .
Reality Software (mailto:ben...@pipeline.com) has a couple of samples
of a Screen saver; "Tall Ships 1" and "Classic Sailboats", respectively,
at:
http://www.maine.com:80/reality/tallshps.html ; and:
http://www.maine.com:80/reality/tallshps.html .
"Seaworthy Small Ships" makes a line of wooden model boat kits *NEW*
which are designed to be easily constructed and then mounted on a
provided stand or sailed on your local pond. The line includes
sailboats of mostly historic designs such as the Chesapeake bay
Skipjack and "power" boats which have rubber band motors. The models
are between 8 and 16 inches (20 to 40 cm) in length.
They also sell full size plans and patterns for three sailboat models
which are ideal for class projects and youth groups. The 16" "Fiji"
trimaran is designed to be made from styro-foam insulation board. One
sheet of material makes 50 models. At:
http://azinet.com/seacat.html ,or send e-mail to:
mailto:seaw...@azinet.com and they will send you an e-mail
version of the catalog.
"the most beautiful half hulls ever made", at:
http://www.ezone.com/model/ .
"Welcome to East Coast Model Center" (primarily RC models), at:
http://www.peinet.pe.ca/ECMC/ .
Pointers to sites of maritime interest
======================================
"The Cunard Archives", at: *NEW*
http://www.liv.ac.uk/~archives/cunard/chome.htm .
"The Knotting Dictionary of Kannet", at:
http://www.netg.se/~jan/0ld_knot.htm .
"The Miramar" life on board the motor vessel Miramar sailing in the
Pudget Sound. at:
http://www.seanet.com/Users/deanl/miramar.html .
"The Pirate Page" at:
http://www2.ecst.csuchico.edu/~beej/pirates/piratepage.html .
"Peabody Essex Museum", at:
http://www.pem.org/
...includes: "Marine Paintings & Drawings". A marvellous collection of
80 marine paintings from the collections of the Essex Peabody Museum,
Salem, MA, USA. These pictures are well-known to anyone who have
studied the beautiful catalogues of the collection by the Brewingtons
and P.C.F. Smith. At:
http://www.pem.org/maritm3.htm
Plans ???, at: *NEW*
http://www.uni-duisburg.de/THP/WeitereFF/schiff.html
"The Marine Art Information Center" is a picture gallery of *NEW*
marine watercolours and paintings supplemented by information on
auctions,galleries, reference materials and museums focusing on
maritime art. Also included are WWW entry points for marine art,
photographs and sounds. At:
http://www.marineart.com .
"The S. S. Canadiana Preservation Society, Inc", at:
http://www.localnet.com/~fbaker/canadiana/canadiana.html .
Miscellaneous
=============
"The Antique and Classic Boat Society", Pacific North West Chapter
(of USA). At:
http://www.halcyon.com/pford/acbsx.htm .
"The Cutty Sark Tall Ships Race:, at:
http://www.ftech.co.uk/~channel/wfest/pages/tsgall.htm .
"Guillemot Kayaks". Kayak building information includes information on
strip building and stitch and glue, and traditional (baidarka)
techniques from the New England area. The primary emphasis is on sea
kayaks. Also information and pictures from Gail Ferris about paddling
in the arctic. At:
http://www.mindport.net/~schade/Kayak.html .
"MS Estonia disaster", at:
http://www.viabalt.ee/News/sos/ .
"Call me Fishmeal", at:
http://www.well.com/www/pk/fishmeal.html .
"Interactive Marine Observations". A visual interface to the lastest
worldwide marine weather information being reported by automated
weather stations. At:
http://thunder.met.fsu.edu/~nws/buoy/ .
"International Council for the Exploration of the Sea", at:
http://www.ices.inst.dk/ .
"International maritime signal flags", at:
http://155.187.10.12/flags/signal-flags.html ,
and their meaning, at:
http://155.187.10.12/flags/signal-meaning.html .
"The Semaphore Flag Signalling System.", at:
http://155.187.10.12/flags/semaphore.html .
"Museum Information"; at Oxford, UK; links to (general) museums, at:
http://www.comlab.ox.ac.uk/archive/other/museums/info.html .
"Metal Web News" (Metal-working stuff, including that FAQ), at:
http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/index.html .
"Guide to Museums and Cultural Resources on the Web"; at Natural
History Museum of Los Angeles County; links to (general) museums, at:
http://www.lam.mus.ca.us/webmuseums .
"British Waterways Official Website", at:
http://www.rscom.com/boat/ .
"Bill's Lighthouse Getaway". This travelog of US east and west-coast
lighthouses now includes over 40 lights, plus other info for the
lighthouse fanatic. At:
http://zuma.lib.utk.edu/lights/ .
"Larry Barker's Boating Page", at:
http://www.teleport.com/~lgbarker/boating.html .
"Maritime HomePage", at:
http://www.webcom.com/~maritime/welcome.html .
"Aquanaut" (scuba diving), at:
http://bighorn.terra.net/aquanaut/ ; and:
"The Nautical Art Home Page". Empty so far. At:
http://bighorn.terra.net/artonline/aol/naut.html .
"Det Norske Veritas", a maritime classification society established
1864, at:
http://www.dnv.no/Welcome.html .
"The Poseidon Project", at:
http://velox.stanford.edu/hellas/poseidon.html .
"Welcome to Salem, Massachusetts", at:
http://www.star.net/salem/default.htm .
"The Scale Models Forum", at:
http://www.startext.net/interact/models.htm
"The Steamships of Stockholm", at:
http://sics.se/~jussi/steamer.html .
"Ron Ginger's Home Page" A Model Boat builder. Also information on the
"Traditional Small Craft Association", "TSCA of Peabody Museum" and
"North America Model Engineer Show". At:
http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger/
There's collection of pointers to individual ships, at: *NEW*
http://www.novagate.com/~schoonerman/tall.htm .
"Stephen's Home Page", mostly pointers to other well known sites. at:
http://gpu.srv.ualberta.ca/~sjones/index.html .
"Wooden Boat" magazine now has a web site, at: *NEW*
http://www.woodenboat.com .
Books and Book Shops
====================
"The Patrick O'Brian Page", at:
http://www.princeton.edu/~joes/surprise.html .
"Databoat", boat plans and marine related books. At:
http://www.databoat.com .
"The entire Fernhurst Books catalog". at:
http://www.paw.com/sail/Fernhurst .
"Nautical Brass", a bimonthly illustrated magazine for the collector's
of nautical antiques.
http://www.supernet.net/commerce/nbrass.htm .
"Warsash Nautical Bookshop" (in England), at:
http://www.aladdin.co.uk/wnbooks/ .
Sailing Ships
=============
"Age of Sail Page" at:
http://www.cs.yale.edu/HTML/YALE/CS/HyPlans/loosemore-sandra/sail.html .
"Angelo Mascaro Sailing Page" at the following url:
http://www.inrete.it/vela/vela.html (Italian)
English readers might prefer the following:
http://www.inrete.it/vela/sail.html
"Armada de la Libertecute" sail training ships at Rouen, France,
celebrating the 50th anniversary of the D-Day." (17 July, 1994) at:
http://www.cnam.fr/Images/Armada/ .
"A History of Ships Named Enterprise", at:
http://www.ee.umanitoba.ca/~djc/startrek/SNE.html .
"The Continental Sloop Providence Unofficial Home Page", at:
http://shakti.trincoll.edu:80/~jconstan/providence.html .
"BREST 96" The international meeting of ships and sailors,
13 to 20 July 1996. at:
http://www.enst-bretagne.fr:3000/anglais/Home_page_gb.html .
"The Marco Polo reconstruction project" at:
http://www.cygnus.nb.ca/epcom/marcopolo/project.html .
"Mark Rosenstein's Sailing Page", (lots of links here) at:
http://community.bellcore.com/mbr/sailing-page.html .
"Sail Training Association (STA)" (Sout Hampton and Salisbury, England)
at:
http://www.soton.ac.uk/~sta1/ .
"Salem Builds a Tallship". A re-construction of the Friendship built
in Salem 1797. At:
http://www.star.net/salem/tallship.htm .
"Bluenose II Preservation Trust", at:
http://fox.nstn.ca:80/~bluenos2/ .
"Battleship Cove", (Fall River, Mass.), at: *NEW*
http://www.ici.net/cust_pages/jack/mamie.html .
"Pandora" (the one associated with the HMS Bounty) is at:
http://wavefront.wavefront.com/~pjlareau/pandora.html .
"Carrie E.Phillips" (Schooner, 1887) of Provincetown, at:
http://www.cris.com/~Davemoo/schooner.html .
"48^ North - The Northern Sailing Magazine", at:
http://www.gosailing.com/
...it contains "Lady Washington - Revisiting Our [American] Maritime
Heritage". A reconstruction of the 1788 brig Lady Washington, which
was launched in 1989, is operated by the Grays Harbor Historical
Seaport, Aberdeen, WA; at:
http://www.gosailing.com/ladywash.html .
"The three-masted schooner Linden", of Mariehamn, Aland (Finland), at:
http://www.aalnet.aland.fi:80/Hotell/linden .
"The Maritime Hertitage Alliance" The Madeline is a reconstruction of a
mid 19th century fore and aft schooner built by the non-profit
organisation the Maritime Heritage Alliance, Traverse City, MI, in 1990.
At:
http://ns1.win.net/~torresen/madeline.htm .
"Sailing with the Pride of Baltimore II", at:
http://cvinet.com/pride/del/ .
"Thames Barge - Marie May". The restoration of a Thames Barge built by
Hutsons of Maidstone in 1920, at:
http://www.aladdin.co.uk/sihe/mariemay.htm .
"The SS Cherokee Belle", a place for Steamboat Buffs and Mark Twain
fans to share stories and information, at:
http://www.acy.digex.net/~capnmark/home.html .
Boat and Ship Building
======================
A collection of links on this subject can be found at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/Pointers/Shipbuilding.html .
Maritime Museums and Research Projects (including Nautical Archaeology)
=======================================================================
"The Channel Islands Marine Archaeology Resources (CMAR)", along with
their newsletter, Wreckscatter. at:
http://weber.u.washington.edu/~nailgun/cmar .
"Combined Caesarea Expeditions Underwater Excavations", at:
http://www.carleton.ca/~ereinhar/CaesareaHome.html .
"Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic", Lunenburg, NS, Canada. At:
http://www.ednet.ns.ca./educ/museum/fma.html .
The FSU Underwater Archaeology program; at:
http://www.dos.state.fl.us/sos/divisions/historical_resources/hist.html .
"Historical Diving Society" (mailto:HDS...@AOL.COM); at:
http://diveweb.com/hds/hds.htm .
Index to underwater archaeology resources on the Internet, with some
very useful information about Scuba diving and other underwater
archaeology. Its URL is:
http://fiat.gslis.utexas.edu/~trabourn/underwater.html
"Kelsey Museum Educational and Outreach Programs" (University of
Michigan; Archaeology, at:
http://classics.lsa.umich.edu/Kelsey/Outreach.html .
"The Life-Saving Museum Scrapbook", at:
http://www.infi.net/~cwt/life-sav.html .
"L'archaeologie sous les mers, techniques et recherches" une exposition
de la Mission de la recherche et de la Maison des sciences de l'homme au
Muse; archeologique de Nice-Cimiez du 27 mai au 4 septembre 1994 ey ai
siege central du CNRS du 14 novembre au 7 decembre 1994. (The french
ministry of culture is pleased to announce a virtual exhibition on the
Web dedicated to sub-marine archeology.) At:
http://www.culture.fr/culture/archeosm/archeosm.htm .
"Mariner's Museum" (Newport News, VA), at:
http://www.infi.net/mariner .
"Maritime Museum of the Atlantic", Halifax, NS, Canada. At:
http://www.ednet.ns.ca./educ/museum/mma.html
"The Maritime Museum of Portugal", at: *NEW*
http://www.madinfo.pt/museumar/ .
"Mystic Seaport", at:
http://www.mystic.org/ .
"MIL-HIST" (Military History), at:
http://www.olcommerce.com/cadre/milhist/index.html .
"National Maritime Museum" (Greenwich, England...not much there yet),
at: *NEW*
http://ihr.sas.ac.uk/ihr/maritime/maritime.mnu.html .
"North Carolina Maritime Museum", at:
http://www.agr.state.nc.us/maritime/index.htm .
Northern Maritime Research (mailto:ad...@ccn.cs.dal.ca) has
the "Northern Shipwreck Database" (50,000+ record wreck database),
at:
http://www.ccn.cs.dal.ca/~ad514/Profile.html .
SeaLore is the Internet homeport for the "Mary Rose Virtual Maritime
Museum", Portsmouth, England the tallship "HMS" Rose, a working example
of a 18th c. British navy frigate. HMS Rose was recently featured in
a two page spread in the July 3rd issue of Forbes magazine. It's at:
http://www.synergy.net/homeport.html , and at:
http://www.compulink.co.uk/~yama/news95.htm , and a site dedicated
to educational visits at:
http://www.compulink.co.uk/~mary-rose/ ;
mailto:mary...@cix.compulink.co.uk .
"Nautical Archaeology Program at Texas A&M University and the
Institute of Nautical Archaeology", at:
http://nautarch.tamu.edu .
"The American Tallship "HMS" Rose", at:
The Rose's history, construction, rigging and history, as well as a
photo gallery:
http://shakti.trincoll.edu/~jconstan/hmsrose/home.html .
"Set Sail on the Delaware" an Exhibition at the Franklin Institute
Science Museum. At:
http://sln.fi.edu/tfi/exhibits/ships.html.
"Hart Nautical Collection" at MIT, Cambridge, MA, USA. At:
http://web.mit.edu/museum/www/collections/hart.html .
"Guide to Historic Ship Wrecks" in Great Britain. Descriptions of 41
wreck sites designated under the Protection of Wrecks Act of 1973. At:
http://www.cru.uea.ac.uk/ukdiving/misc/deswreck.htm .
Michael Dun at the Scottish Institute of Maritime Studies has links to
lists of maritime museums and other information, data on Maritime Fife
in Scotland, and examples of Letters of Marque.
http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_sa/personal/md4/index.html .
"The Steamer William G. Mather Museum" (Cleveland, Ohio). An excellent
presentation of this museum. Includes links to other Great Lakes sites.
At:
http://little.nhlink.net/wgm/wgmhome.html .
"Newsletter from Roskilde", with articles about the testing of a full-
scale replica of a medieval cargo carrier from the Baltic, about recent
excavations in an 8th century military canal in Denmark, and more. You
will find the edition on:
http://www.natmus.min.dk ,
by selecting the headlines "Publikationer pe nettet", "Nyhedsbrev fra
Roskilde" and "Nr. 5 - December 1995". You can also select "English
Version".
The Pan-American Institute for Marine Archaeology is at:
http://www.wbm.ca/users/nfisher/ .
"Underwater Shipwreck State Parks and Historic Sites", at:
http://www.indiana.edu:80/~scuba/project.html
"Statens Sjohistoriska Musett", Stockholm. The National Maritime Museum
of Sweden. At:
http://www.telemuseum.se/museer/SSHM/Home.HTML .
"Three Facets of Maritime Archaeology: Society, Landscape and Critique"
by Anthony Firth, University of Southampton. At:
http://avebury.arch.soton.ac.uk/Research/Firth/ .
"The "Wasa" Museum", Stockholm. At:
http://www.sunet.se/stockholm/museums/vasa/vasa.html .
"Underwater Archaeology", at:
http://www.brown.edu/Research/Underwater_Archaeology/bfd/ .
"Velkommen til Nationalmuseet", The National Museum of Denmark, at:
http://WWW.NATMUS.MIN.DK/ .
NOTE...The folliwng sites are believed to concern Nautical Archaeology.
However, the access is so SLOW!! that I have NEVER been able to
connect to them and verify this..
Australian Institute for Maritime Archaeology and the Department of
Maritime Archaeology is operating an experimental Australian National
Shipwreck Database whic is available for access on the www using
FileMaker Pro and WebFM. In addition there is a maritime archaeological
bibliographic database working on the system. at:
http://www.mm.wa.gov.au/WEBFM/hotlist/ssearch.html - Shipwrecks;
http://www.mm.wa.gov.au/WEBFM/hotlist/bsearch.html - Bibliography.
"The Western Australian Maritime Museum" this server is still at an
experimental stage. This site is currently overloaded with graphics
which together with a SLOW!! link gives poor performance. With lots of
info on the Maritime Museum, Dutch and other shipwrecks in this corner
of the globe, and on the Departments of Maritime Archaeology and of
Maritime History in Western Australia, as well as hypertext links
to other sites. At:
http://www.mm.wa.gov.au/Museum.html .
A related site for "The Australian Institute for Nautical Archaeology"
is at:
http://www.mm.wa.gov.au/Museum/aima/Bulletin18_2/Index.html .
Boating
=======
A collection of links on this subject can be found at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/Pointers/Boating.html .
Yachting
========
A collection of links on this subject can be found at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/Pointers/Yachting.html .
There's also subsections on 'Yacht Clubs', 'Individual Classes', 'Power
Boats, 'Races', and on 'Yachts, Boats and equipment for sale'.
Research Ships
==============
"World Ocean Circulation Experiment (WOCE) Cruise A23" at:
http://www.mth.uea.ac.uk/ocean/a23/welcome.html
The Marine Tech group of Oregon State University College of Oceanographic and
Atmospheric Sciences has brought up a new Mosaic Home Page for their ship R/V
WECOMA. It is available at:
http://www.oce.orst.edu/Wecoma/WecomaHome.html .
"National Oceanic and Atmospheric Adminstration (NOAA), at:
http://www.noaa.gov ; and:
"Fleet Replacement and Modernization" at:
http://www.noaa.gov/fleet.html .
"Research Ship Information and Cruise Schedules" at:
http://diu.cms.udel.edu/ships/ship_menu.html .
"The Alfred Wegener Institute" for Polar and Marine Research. At:
http://www.awi-bremerhaven.de .
- also, a picture of R/V Polarstern at:
http://www.awi-bremerhaven.de/Pics/Polarstern.jpeg .
Diving
======
A collection of links on this subject can be found at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/Pointers/Diving.html .
Naval
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"Real Time Support for the Warrior", from The Advanced Information
Technology Branch of the Naval Research Laboratory at:
http://www.ait.nrl.navy.mil/rts/warrior.html .
"Combat Boat 90H", a Swedish assault boat for amphibious landings. At:
http://www.nada.kth.se/~d94-pek/sboat.html .
"Fighting Ships of Pearl Harbor", at:
http://www.autometric.com/AUTO/html/must_see.html#fighting_ships .
"Naval Surface Warfare Center" Carderock Division. Formerly the David
Taylor Model Basin. At:
http://www50.dt.navy.mil .
"Ships & Navy Homepage" maintained by Andrew Toppan
(mailto:el...@wpi.edu); (includes weekly photo feature on various
topics) at:
http://www.wpi.edu/~elmer/navy.html ;
...also has the ShipModeling and rec.models.scale FAQs at:
http://www.wpi.edu/~elmer/Faqs.html .
"Welcome to NavyOnLine" at:
http://www.ncts.navy.mil .
"The Naval Postgraduate School", Monterey, CA, at:
http://www.nps.navy.mil .
"Edward Smyth's Shipping and Nautical Info." at:
http://boris.qub.ac.uk/edward/Ships.html .
"Operation Deadlight", the name assigned the operation which resulted
in the scuttling of over 100 German U-boats by the Royal Navy; at:
http://rvik.ismennt.is/~gummihe/Uboats/dlight.htm .
"Ship Reunions", at:
http://www.eas.pdx.edu/~jgriffin/ .
"State of the Russian Navy", at:
http://webcom.com/~amraam/rnav.html .
"Supreme Allied Commander, Atlantic" at:
http://www.saclant.nato.int .
U. S. Naval Academy at Annapolis, MD, is on-line at:
http://www.nadn.navy.mil/
(check out the Preble Museum at:
http://www.nadn.navy.mil/Museum ,
and the Henry Huddleston Rogers ship model collection, at:
http://www.nadn.navy.mil/Museum/gallery.html .
"United States Coast Guard", at:
http://www.dot.gov/dotinfo/uscg/ .
"Ron Martini's Navy Submarine Page" at:
http://wave.sheridan.wy.us/~rontini/ronpage.html .
"U.S. Navy", at:
http://www.navy.mil .
"NAVAL SEA CADETS' WWW site", at:
http://www.tucson.com/nscc