(GEN) Painting a realistic "wood" finish realistic - Any Ideas?
tony_matteliano
Hello Everyone:
I am in the process of painting an Italeri Bergepanther (ARMOR) and there are
several sections of wood on the vehicle.
Can anyone share any techniques for painting / creating a realistic looking
"wood" finish?
Tanks Alot in advance.
Tony Matteliano (to...@buffnet.net)
Brian Cable
and raw umber separately until I get the shade I'm looking for.
Gustav 109
Tony, I will share a technique that I tried on a 1/72 WWI floatplane on
the wooden floats. I think it could work in 1/35 scale as well. Paint your
panel a dark brown and let it dry thoroughly. Now overpaint that with your
lighter shade of wood. After that dries, get a fine sewing needle and very
lightly scratch through your top layer of light wood color, allowing the
darker shade to show through, simulating wood grain. Perhaps it will help
to look at a piece of plywood to help obtain a realistic wood grain. It
can be tedious but the results are quite good. You might also try gluing a
very thin slice of wood laminate for a VERY realistic wood finish. I have
seen that done with larger scale WWI airplanes.
Wayne Burgess
In article <5buotf$7...@lana.zippo.com> Tony Matteliano writes:
>From: Tony Matteliano
>Subject: (GEN) Painting a realistic "wood" finish realistic - Any Ideas?
>Date: 19 Jan 1997 19:30:55 -0800
Tony
Tim Powers did an excellent article in the October 1996 issue of Scale Auto
Enthusiast for a "woody" wagon. There should be some information applicable to
your project there.
Hope this helps.
Mike Settle
Tony, Matteliano wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone:
>
> I am in the process of painting an Italeri Bergepanther (ARMOR) and there are
> several sections of wood on the vehicle.
>
> Can anyone share any techniques for painting / creating a realistic looking
> "wood" finish?
>
> Tanks Alot in advance.
>
Two or three issues ago, Scale Auto Enthuiast magazine had an article on
how to paint wood finishes. It was aimed specifically at the wood trim
on old cars, but the article was excellent and the results were some of
the best I have seen in photos. Haven't tried it yet, myself, but I am
nearing the point on one of my projects where I am going to give it a
try. The techniques in the article could be used on something other than
car models. Not near my magazines now, but if you need to know the
specific issue, e-mail me back and I will find it.
Mike Settle
--
(Our problems are mostly behind us. What we have to do now is fight the
solutions. --Anon. )
Mike Settle
Don_S...@transarc.com
One of the car model magazines - either Scale Auto Enthusiast or Car Modeler,
had an article on this in the last few months (I'll dig up the exact issue
tonight). They showed some amazing results by using coarse sandpaper to
put in some "grain" and then dry brushing various darker shades over a
lighter base. They recommended various paints to simulate different
types of wood.
Don
Peter
Paint a good base color. Wet a worn out fraying brush with a darker
color - slightly more than when you would dry brush. Delicatly run
over the base. The brush should hardly have ANY fibres touching. The
result - very thin irrregular lines on a wood colored base. Looks
really good, but it might take a few attempts to get the desired
result.
jno...@aol.com
I asked for similar advice several weeks ago and got good suggestions, but
ended up with another method I'd like to share. This was used on some
long bladed wooden props but would probably work as well here:
Paint the base color(s). In my case it was a laminated prop, so I masked
and sprayed several colors to represent the separate sections of wood.
I then used a very fine-toothed razor saw to lightly score the surface of
the paint along the grain lines. This could also be done with a wire
brush, just try to create the effect of a bunch of parallel striations.
I then washed the surface in diluted India ink to highlight the "grain",
allowed it to dry, wiped it off, and dipped the props in Future to
represent the varnish coat.
Looks pretty good!
John Noack
IPMS 23017
RAY MEHLBERGER
CS wrote:
>
> Tony, Matteliano wrote:
> >
> > Hello Everyone:
> >
> > I am in the process of painting an Italeri Bergepanther (ARMOR) and there are
> > several sections of wood on the vehicle.
> >
> > Can anyone share any techniques for painting / creating a realistic looking
> > "wood" finish?
> >
> > Tanks Alot in advance.
> >
>
> Tony,
>
> For your reference, I just replaced those parts with processed soft wood
> (for R/C planes building) and added details back with plastic and metal.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Charles Sum
All the methods for painting plastic to look like wood grain so far have
been for 1/35 scale. How does one do the wood decks of a 1/350 scale
ship?? I have the Tamiya "Bismark". Would the decks have been left a
natural wood or were they painted? If they were bare wood, how would you
do the deck to look more like wood? I doubt any wood graining would be
visible in that scale? Right? Thanks for any thoughts on this,
especially from you ship guys, in advance.
Ray
CS
Mark Shannon
RAY MEHLBERGER wrote:
> been for 1/35 scale. How does one do the wood decks of a 1/350 scale
> ship?? I have the Tamiya "Bismark". Would the decks have been left a
> natural wood or were they painted? If they were bare wood, how would you
> do the deck to look more like wood? I doubt any wood graining would be
> visible in that scale? Right? Thanks for any thoughts on this,
> especially from you ship guys, in advance.
>
> Ray
The best way is to paint a base color, then mask off 'planks' with
strips of tape and paint in a shaded or tinted version of the base
color. Keep doing this, and when the mask is removed, there will be a
contrasting effect looking like plank-to-plank variation.
The real trick is to be SUBTLE. Drastic changes of the base color will
make the deck look like an old, unpainted barn side (the voice of
experience). We're talking one part white in ten to twenty parts base,
and adding grey, green or yellow instead of lots of white, black, or
such.
A final dry-brushing with the base and the ship-side color will help
blend in the effects.
--
This has been Mark and/or Mary Shannon
at Shin...@ix.netcom.com
Remember that every cliche started out as a stroke of genius.
jmaze
In Article<32EA1A...@mcleod.net>, <rese...@mcleod.net> writes:
> Path:
> Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 08:37:01
>
> > CS wrote:
> > Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 04:04:44
>
> > Tony, Matteliano wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello Everyone:
<snip all the important stuff>
>
> Ray
Hey, which one of you guys has your clock set wrong? Ray may be
*good* but can he really answer a question before it is written?
00
/
<>
John
Mike Schatz
Kinda depends on their respective relationships to the International
Date Line, doesn't it?
--
_____________________________________________________________________
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