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airbrushing

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TED TAYLOR

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Dec 2, 2001, 4:17:03 AM12/2/01
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Hi Bill, It is so nice to hear a "good news" bit about airbrushing after all the "moans" and "how do you" posts we normally get. I haven't heard about that additive before but I'll try to find it over here and give it a try when I use my next acrylic paint session, I have demonstrated the Testors/Aztec range before and found the brushes to be quite good and just as capable as the old Badger 200 that I use, although I couldn't sign my name quite as fine as a biro with them as I can with the Badger.
good on ya
William H. Shuey <whs...@starpower.net> wrote in message news:3C09CC24...@starpower.net...
Hi all:

    I thought I would weigh in on the subject of airbrushing Acrylics and using Testor's/Aztec airbrushes. My old Paasche H is getting long in the tooth and needed a rebuilt front end so I went to a model railroad show that occurs in my neighbourhood every year about this time where a tool vendor sets up with all sorts of goodies, including Paasche parts. Bummer!, this year he wasn't there. Wandering down one isle I found a guy with some used model railroad stuff and some used tools for sale. He had a Testor's airbrush on the table. Looked like the Aztec 470 single/double action but without the extra hand grip. Had a couple of extra tips for acrylics with it and the price was cheap enough so I bit.
    My current project is an old 1/48 scale Otaki Grumman Hellcat, but with a True Details resin cockpit replacing the rather limited kit cockpit and an old set of Medallion resin dropped flaps. Color scheme is mid war tri color, Non-specular Sea Blue, Intermediate Blue and off White. Paint is original POLY-S, which is actually formulated for hand brushing. Now you would expect this to be a real challenge for a testor's/Aztec airbrush, considering some of the comments that have been aired on this newsgroup in the past. Not so!
    Two things may be contributing to the good results I'm getting. First, I'm thinning the POLY-S with POLY-S thinner, a bottle of the blue tinted stuff. Second, I'm adding a few drops of "Liquitex Low Viscosity Airbrush Medium" to the thinned paint. Flows beautifully, dries smooth and no clogging of the airbrush what so ever. I've used the off white and the Non-specular Sea Blue so far and the results are nice. I keep a small bucket of water next to the bench and when I'm done painting, I dunk the whole brush in the bucket and spray a lot of water thru it and by holding my finger in front of the nozzle while depressing the trigger I can make paint and water back up thru the paint cup to flush it out real good.
    The airbrush is much lighter than the Paasche I am used to, and I can see why the extra hand grip on the Aztec 470 was put on. I may try to build up something like that on mine with electrical tape or  maybe some Milli-Putt.
    At this point, I'm definitely happy with my purchase. Acrylics drying too fast and gumming up the works can happen with any airbrush, and I suspect the Liquitex stuff has a lot to do with my success. If you are having trouble airbrushing acrylics, it's worth giving this stuff a try. I got my bottle (8 Oz. size) at a Michael's art supplies.

              I have no association with Testor's, Liquitex or Michael's what so ever, etc.

                                                                                Bill Shuey

Randy Cooper

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Dec 2, 2001, 11:54:35 AM12/2/01
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Bill,

I agree that the Liquitex Low Viscosity Acrylic Airbrush Medium is a big
help when spraying acrylic paint. I also find that a little Liquitex
Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder helps when the paint drys before it hits the
model, a drop or two of the retarder usually does the trick.

I have found these products at Art supply stores in my area, but never
in a hobby shop.

Randy Cooper

"William H. Shuey" wrote:

> Hi all:
>
> I thought I would weigh in on the subject of airbrushing Acrylics
> and using Testor's/Aztec airbrushes. My old Paasche H is getting long
> in the tooth and needed a rebuilt front end so I went to a model

> railroad show that occurs in my neighborhood every year about this

--
Reply to: rwco...@mb.sympatico.ca (mail checked week nights and weekends)

Jdruary1

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Dec 2, 2001, 4:26:57 PM12/2/01
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I've been using the Liquitex airbrush medium with those inexpensive cract
paints (Deta Ceramcoat, Folkart, etc.) for some time and have had excellent
results.

I thin the paints with water until they are the viscosity I require, then add a
few drops of the airbrush medium. Clogging is a non-issue.

The craft paints blow beautifully though my Paasche VL and Paasche H with the
"medium" tip.

One caveat, though, is to allow the paints sufficient time to cure..usually 24
to 48 hours. Once fully cured, one can handle them, mask them, wash over them,
whatever, with no problems.

For the price, they cannot be beaten. a 2-ounce bottle usually sells for under
a dollar (US)...generally less than that. Compared to ModelMaster paints at
$2.50 for 1/2 ounce, thay are 1/4 as costly.

Go to your local craft/art supply store and score some airbrush medium. You'll
never go back!

Steve Fowler

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Dec 3, 2001, 1:17:33 PM12/3/01
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Good to read of your positive experience with the Aztec.  I think that brush gets unfairly slammed in the forums.  I've used one for 10 years and love it.
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