Tamiya T-34/76 winter camo question

[mx...@my-deja.com]

Hi guys,

I'm new to modeling and want to know what would be the best way to
apply winter white camo for Tamiya's T-34 kit. Can anyone describe the
process in detail or refer me to a web site that would have this. I
also would like to know how to do weathering on the model.

Thanks a lot for help.

Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.

[Bill Boyanton]

I paint & apply marking etc the model just as normal, in this case some
shade of Russian green, since winter camouflage would be applied over that
base. I then use a cost of water soluble paint, let it dry a bit then go
over it with a wet brush to thin it out at the wear points. A lot of winter
camouflage was just a white wash that would wash off with water, and would
weather with age, rarely would they use a normal paint in white color, to
much effort to repaint once snow was gone. If your scheme does not turn out
like you want with the water base stuff you can just wash it off and start
over.
Bill

<mx...@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:8epg8s$5il$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...

[mx...@my-deja.com]

Alright lets see if I got this correct.

1) Paint model in regular summer camouflage and apply decals.
2) Apply water based white paint (acrylics you mean?) over the whole
model
3) Use wet brush to take away some paint.

I've got couple of questions on this method.

If I apply paint over my decals, they will disappear under the coat of
paint. How do I make them visible again?
I use acrylics paints on my T-34, so when I will be going over the
model with a wet brush, won't my green color be take off too?

I suspect that I missed something important, can anyone clarify things
to me a bit more please.
Also some AFV modeling site that I been on to, was talking about
applying white chalk as winter camouflage (sorry don't remember the URL
now). Can anyone describe this process to me?

Thanks

In article <rk_P4.6051$4O2.4...@newshog.newsread.com>,

"Bill Boyanton" <boya...@clipper.net> wrote:
> I paint & apply marking etc the model just as normal, in this case
some
> shade of Russian green, since winter camouflage would be applied over
that
> base. I then use a cost of water soluble paint, let it dry a bit
then go
> over it with a wet brush to thin it out at the wear points. A lot of
winter
> camouflage was just a white wash that would wash off with water, and
would
> weather with age, rarely would they use a normal paint in white
color, to
> much effort to repaint once snow was gone. If your scheme does not
turn out
> like you want with the water base stuff you can just wash it off and
start
> over.
> Bill
>

[Bill Boyanton]

I first let the model 'cure' - base color paint and decals, etc. I use a
white waterbased (true water colors type paint, look at art stores not your
local hobby / model shop) poster paint, not acrylics. I then let this dry a
bit and take a wet brush - wet with just plain water, and lightly scrub the
white paint, to the desired effect letting the standard paint show if I
want. You can ether scrub off the white paint on the markings or just paint
the white paint around the markings. Rinse off wet brush once in a while.
The whitewash would normally wear off grab handles, hatch edges, etc. If it
rained it would bleed off the whitewash showing the base coat.
The Americans, Germans and Russians used standard whitewash for winter camo.
I don't think ether side used standard paint. In combat there was no time
to take tanks back to the rear and clean them and repaint in a winter
scheme, that winter scheme was applied in the field as soon as snow started
to fall, as winter progressed the whitewash would start to fade / wear off
as the snow melted, once all the snow was gone they would wash down the
tanks with water to remove any existing whitewash. Most of the time the
whitewash would be gone at the end of winter, since by then it would be
raining, muddy, etc.
Calk was used sometimes when whitewash was not available, the crews would
just rub the calk all over the tank, straight over the base color. I
suppose you could try this on a model, but I like the white water color
paint way myself, I can leave like a fresh 'paint job' or apply what ever
amount of wear I wish.
A lot of the time the Germans would be short of white wash, only frontal
areas / vertical sides of the tank would be covered since this was the side
facing the enemy, this way they could stretch their supplies are far as
possible. Take a look at some photos of winter camouflage, you'll see what
I mean.

<mx...@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:8epv6s$nbh$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...

> Alright lets see if I got this correct.
>
> 1) Paint model in regular summer camouflage and apply decals.
> 2) Apply water based white paint (acrylics you mean?) over the whole
> model

No true Water colors not acrylics.

> 3) Use wet brush to take away some paint.

Wet with water, rinse off brush once in a while in a small cup of water, use
a soft bigger brush scrub lightly until you get the effect you like.

>
> I've got couple of questions on this method.
>
> If I apply paint over my decals, they will disappear under the coat of
> paint. How do I make them visible again?

If you want the marking to reappear just scrub off more of the water color
white paint off with a wet (water) brush, or just apply white around
markings.

> I use acrylics paints on my T-34, so when I will be going over the
> model with a wet brush, won't my green color be take off too?

I use enamels mostly, I'm not that used to arcylics, once it dries two or
three days isn't it then 'waterproof' ?

[AMPSOne]

There is a new book out called "Camouflage of the Tanks of the Soviet Army
1930-45" which covers a lot of different ways this was done. You may want to
get a copy and look at some of the examples.

While I translated this beast, I get no cut of the profits so am not "shilling"
for anyone.

However, you can get a copy from Eastern Front Hobbies in Alabama (check their
website).

Cookie Sewell
AMPS

[Lafimprov]

For a water-based winter whitewash, either tube-type white watercolors or white
tempera (poster colors) could be used. Both should be available from an arts
and crafts store. You can also find it at Walmart in the art section. Before
you apply it, dirty the white just a bit with a tiny amount of black or earth
color to kill the brightness (pure white is too white for a model).
Other tube watercolors like sienna, burnt sienna, raw umber, and burnt umber
are useful earth colors for weathering. They can be applied as washes or
drybrushed. What's nice is you can take chances and experiment. If you don't
like the final effect, they can always be washed off. Seal watercolors with a
clear flat overspray to make them permanent.

[mx...@my-deja.com]

In article <20000503195005...@ng-bk1.aol.com>,

Hi,

When buying watercolor, can I buy them of any manufacturer, or there is
a particular one that I should look for?

Thanks a lot