Tamiya F-16: wth?
tomcervo
mold line running right down the middle. I know, "it's a simple matter
of sanding down and repolishing"--but what the hell's the point of
that?
Jack G
would have to glue together and then do the sanding and polishing on the
inside and outside...
Jack G.
"tomcervo" <tomc...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1179018589.3...@e65g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
tomcervo
> I think the alternative would have been to mold it in two pieces which you
> would have to glue together and then do the sanding and polishing on the
> inside and outside...
Except that every other f-16 kitter--including garage outfits like
Hasegawa--manage to mold it in one piece, no line.
Rufus
Hmmnnn...I'd look at the cross section on those. An F-16 canopy bulges
over the sides of the frame, and to mold it properly and be able to get
it free of the mold, you need to make at least a three part die - that's
where the seam on the outside of the canopy comes from.
I'd expect that any of the ones without a seam probably aren't molded to
true scale cross section and are cheated to give the part draft for molding.
--
- Rufus
Kelly Quirk
"tomcervo" <tomc...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1179031605.7...@n59g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
Dave Williams
Not sure I'd consider Hasegawa a "garage" outfit, but my Hasegawa 1/48 F-16
kit canopies certainly do have a prominent mold line down the center of both
the canopy and the rear fixed part.
The center mold seam is a result of making the canopy the correct shape.
The F-16, like a number of other aircraft, have a bubble canopy where the
sides pinch in just above the frame. You can't properly make this with a
two part mold (top and bottom) because you wouldn't be able to pull the two
halves apart without breaking the part. You have to use a three part mold
(bottom and two sides). The center seam is where the two side molds come
together. Almost every manufacturer used three part molds for canopies when
necessary including Tamiya, Hasegawa, Trumpeter, Revell, etc. If someone is
making F-16 injection molded canopies without a seam, then the canopy is the
wrong shape, and that would not be uncommon in an older kit. About the only
way to prevent the seam is to make the canopy out of vacuform plastic or
clear resin.
Dave
AM
Not in any of the Hase lawn dart kit's that I have.
ALL have the seam right down the middle of the canopy.
I just don't understand what the big deal is, just do
some of that modeling work stuff we are supposed to
all do, sheesh......
--
AM
tomcervo
�If someone is
> making F-16 injection molded canopies without a seam, then the canopy is the
> wrong shape, and that would not be uncommon in an older kit. About the only
> way to prevent the seam is to make the canopy out of vacuform plastic or
> clear resin.
Okay, that makes sense--and my f-16s were the older ones. What's the
best way to do it?
Rufus
Scrape the seam down lightly with an X-Acto or single edged razor blade.
Then hand polish with a piece of used Bounce fabric softener sheet.
And yes - it has to be once used.
Then polish off any wax residue with a paper towel or piece of cotton
flannel. Best method I've found.
--
- Rufus
George Kapnas
On May 13, 8:40?am, "Dave Williams" <dwill...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
?If someone is
> making F-16 injection molded canopies without a seam, then the canopy is
> the
> wrong shape, and that would not be uncommon in an older kit. About the
> only
> way to prevent the seam is to make the canopy out of vacuform plastic or
> clear resin.
Okay, that makes sense--and my f-16s were the older ones. What's the
best way to do it?
Tamiya produces what they call a "polishing compound", which is alleged to
be quite good for such cases, but I have never tried it myself (although I
do have a tube that must have turned to concrete by now)
Random link I found:
http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=380&osCsid=7ef39f67be05576065d498a145cfdd2b
I think some people use polishing compounds designed for brass-silverware
(brasso & silvo being two brands we have around), I can't comment on that
either, but I'd expect them to be a tad aggressive.
Geo
AM
>
> Okay, that makes sense--and my f-16s were the older ones. What's the
> best way to do it?
Best way ? I don't know...
What *I* do is to use the backside of an Xacto
blade and scrape the seam off. Then work up in
wet sanding till almost clear, than a plastic polish
like NOVUS, or Microscale and after that a fine CLEAN
cloth and gentle rubbing.
They do make sandpaper up 25,000 grit, check a local
auto supply store that sells good automotive paint.
They will have it and or similar materials.
Micro Mark is also a good source.
--
AM
Geo
news:99-dndKIptBsq9fb...@comcast.com...
> Best way ? I don't know...
>
> What *I* do is to use the backside of an Xacto
> blade and scrape the seam off. Then work up in
> wet sanding till almost clear, than a plastic polish
> like NOVUS, or Microscale and after that a fine CLEAN
> cloth and gentle rubbing.
>
> They do make sandpaper up 25,000 grit, check a local
> auto supply store that sells good automotive paint.
> They will have it and or similar materials.
>
> Micro Mark is also a good source.
>
I suppose I should have mentioned that the compound is to be used to restore
the canopy's shine *after* one has scraped and sanded the seam flat. So,
essentially, the method you suggest is what I had in mind, the only
difference being that you use a plasic polish, whereas I have been told to
use Tamiya's compound. I've also heard that denim makes a god rubbing cloth.
And I've never used all that advice, ny Hasegawa F-16 is still in its box
:-)
Geo
25,000 grit sandpaper? Damn.
AM
>
> I suppose I should have mentioned that the compound is to be used to restore
> the canopy's shine *after* one has scraped and sanded the seam flat. So,
> essentially, the method you suggest is what I had in mind, the only
> difference being that you use a plasic polish, whereas I have been told to
> use Tamiya's compound. I've also heard that denim makes a god rubbing cloth.
> And I've never used all that advice, ny Hasegawa F-16 is still in its box
> :-)
>
>
> Geo
>
> 25,000 grit sandpaper? Damn.
The Tamiya polishing compound is just
fine, I have used that also. No problems.
The key (IMHO) is in the wet sanding.
You want to sand as little as possible,
which means really going up in grit gradually.
I started at 350 grit, got the seam remains down
and even, and made sure I didn't flat spot
the canopy. Then it was a simple matter of
working up to 1200 grit +, and than the plastic
polish. Done in a methodical fashion, this should
take between ten and twenty minutes to do.
The other key item is to make sure you have wiped
the canopy down BETWEEN sanding grits so as not to
rub in more scratches as you go up in grit.
Wipe clean with a clean cloth and water before going
up to the next higher grit sandpaper always.
One of the handiest things in the world is a
#25lb box of rags from your local paint store.
Get the highest grade they have. (lint free)
I no longer have the lawn dart that I built,
but will post some pic's of it in the next week.
(a.b.m.s.)
--
AM