Miniature Terrain/Scenery FAQ - v.1.0 (initiated June 9-/97)
Grey Knight
O.K...Here goes.
The following is the first draft of the Terrain/Scenery FAQ.
It is definately work in progress so any and all comments are very
much appreciated. I am intending to submit it to rec.answers and
news.answers in July in order to make it "official" (or at least to
get it archived at mit.edu)
Please snip aggressively to reduce size of responses and email back to
me.
Fire away,
TVMIA
David Lawson (Grey Knight)
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NOTICE: This document is Copyright Š 1997 by David Lawson.
ŻŻŻŻŻŻ Use and copying of this information is permitted, so
long as the following conditions are met:
no fees or compensation are charged for use, copies or
access to this information beyond the Internet
this copyright notice is included intact
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Subject: 1.0 Table of Contents
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
1.0 Table of Contents
2.0 Introduction
3.0 What type of terrain should I make?
3.1 Types
3.1.1 Tables
3.1.2 Permenant
3.1.3 Modular
3.1.4 Freeform
3.1.5 Simple / Instant
3.2 Environments
3.2.1 Temperate
3.2.2 Desserts and Dust
3.2.3 Tropical
3.2.4 Snow and Ice
3.2.5 Marine
3.2.6 Urban
3.2.7 Other
4.0 Materials
4.1 Common Materials
4.2 Glues
4.3 Paints
5.0 Tools
6.0 Basic Techniques
7.0 How do I make ...
7.1 Hills, Dunes, Drifts and Craters
7.2 Rocks and Cliffs
7.3 Water
7.4 Plants
7.4.1 Grass
7.4.2 Trees and Shrubs
7.4.2 Hedges
7.4.3 Succulents
7.5 Barriers
7.5.1 Walls
7.5.2 Fences
7.5.3 Barricades
7.6 Roads and Paths
7.7 Bridges
7.8 Buildings
8.0 Off the Shelf ...
9.0 Finishing Touches
9.1 Adding Life ...
9.2 Protecting you investment
10.0 Other sources of help
11.0 Thanks go to ...
12.0 Concluding Thoughts
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Subject: 2.0 Introduction
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
This guide will help inexperienced modellers to start building
terrain and scenery. The hints and tips included here were
culled from books, magazines, across the Internet and the
experiences of many terrain builders on
rec.games.miniatures.*
I will post this FAQ regularly, around the first Friday of
each month. It is formatted for publication on news.answers
and conforms to the Minimal Digest Format. At this early stage
in its growth there will be many changes (and many mistakes!)
Please feel free to suggest changes and additional data.
Note: TBD = To Be Developed (not finished yet.)
ŻŻŻŻ GW = Games Workshop
2.1 General Advice
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
My best advice is creativity. This is not a smartass comment,
but a suggestion to look at everyday things from a different
viewpoint. It is amazing what you can do with a couple of
drops of creativity...
Keep in mind the purpose of your scenery. Always keep a couple
of your figures around to check you can get them into your
buildings or between the trees in your woods.
Unless you're an experienced modelmaker I recommend starting
small. Build up your experience and scenery collection before
you put a lot of effort into your masterpiece.
2.2 Getting Started
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
ˇ Decide what type of terrain you're going to build
ˇ Decide on your environment
ˇ Get your supplies and tools. Nothing will stop a project
faster than running out of materials.
ˇ Start building
ˇ Add finishing touches
ˇ Play!
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Subject: 3.0 What type of terrain should I make?
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
3.1 Types
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There are several types of terrain. The choice of which to make
depends on your time, the space you have and your budget.
3.1.1 Tables
Dinning tables are most common, but you could use a table
tennis table for bigger games If you're building your own
(usually 4x8 sheet plywood on frames), think about providing
lots of storage space underneath to protect all of your
carefully made scenery.
3.1.2 Permenant
Model railway type, can be highly detailed and realistic. A
permenantly built-in-place landscape. Some have the ability to
change buildings or to rearrange trees planted in drilled
holes to give some flexibility. The major disadvantages are
that they take up space, aren't very flexible and can be
difficult to move.
3.1.3 Modular
Combines the finish quality of a permenant terrain with
greater flexibility. Some modellers prefer 600x600 mm
squares or 600x1200 rectangles. I have seen some commercial
and handmade hexagons.
3.1.4 Freeform
Individual, small bases of trees, buildings, sections of roads
and rivers allow a wide variety of different terrain each time
you play. This is perhaps the most common for of scenery as it
allows you to build up a collection without becoming
overwhelmed by the size of your project. Most projects can,
and probably should, be finished in an evening. The elements
can also be combined with most other types of scenery if you
wish.
3.1.5 Simple / Instant
Table cloth or baise over books can make a very playable
terrain. Other books or foam polystyrene can represent
buildings. Toy buildings can also be very effective here (try
Playmobil.)
3.2 Environments
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Decide on the environment you want to create before you go much
further. Most people have Temperate scenery but other zones may get
your creative juices going. Your choice will affect the way you build
your scenery ... its not just plants or ground treatment that changes
but buildings, roads and even the uniforms your armies wear.
At its simplest level, just use a coloured table cloth or paint your
gaming table the base colour of your environment. Some gamers
supplement this with flock or grass powder which can increase the
effect (as long as you don't sneeze.)
3.2.1 Temperate
Predominately green landscape with buildings, roads, rivers,
hills and mountains. Plants grow well but have usually been
cut back to allow farming as this is the most predominately
settled and cultivated environment. As a result, there are
usually plenty of signs of habitation. This is probably the
most commonly modelled and the reason most manufacturers like
GW suggest your figure bases be painted green.
3.2.2 Desserts and Dust
Predominately brown, yellow or grey landscape with few
buildings and roads. Dunes, drifts and mountains are common
but water and plants (other than cactii) are uncommon. Plants
are common only where water occurs, either as rivers, wells or
springs.
3.2.3 Tropical
Usually very green with large quantities of thick vegetation.
Heavily forested areas are rarely well populated. When
population is high, there is usually a lot of deforrestation.
An interesting terrain type here is the rice paddy. Hills and
mountains in this environment are often cut into terraces {not
unlike to most wargamming hills.)
3.2.4 Snow and Ice
Usuually white with very pale greys and blues. Almost non
existant vegetation unless you're below the "tree line".
Generally sparsely populated. Has potential if you include
house rules for movement over ice and risk of heavy vehicles
falling through!
3.2.5 Marine
Predominately water (or other liquids!) Could include islands
or coast lines. Great for beachhead type assaults.
3.2.6 Urban
TBD
3.2.7 Other
Volcanic, Deep Space Vacuum etc
TBD
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Subject: 4.0 Materials
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4.1 Common Materials
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The following is a list of the more common terrain and scenery
materials. There are many others, but hopefully the following will
give you enough to get started. Where there are a number of similar
materials (like flock or plaster) I refer to them by the following
names in the FAQ.
Aquarium Plants:
Plastic ones, not the real ones unless you like slime and rot!
Pick some with small leaves to make excellent jungle plants.
Brushes:
Old ones that someone has let paint dry in (who, me?) can be
cut up to make clumps of long grasses or reeds. Stiff broom
bristles can be made into trees.
Cardboard:
Come in a vast range of thicknesses and textures. You can
probably get offcuts of the thicker and textured varieties
from picture framing stores. Don't forget your own supply from
the recycling bin!
Cardboard Tubes:
Any you can find. The ones from the centre of toilet rolls are
usually too thin, but there are many other sources including
the now famous "Pringles" cans (yum!) Use the bigger ones to
build towers and huts.
Corrugated Cardboard:
The coarse stuff may be used for making hills or buildings.
Finer stuff is sometimes available and makes excellent
corrugated metal sheets.
Dirt:
Get it anywhere, it's free! I usually dry it out first and
then add it to my "dirt box" which contains particles of
different sizes as well as foliage pieces and "battlefield
debris."
Drinking Straws:
Bendy ones are great. All can be used to make pipes, ducts and
chimneys.
Epoxy Putty: (Milliput, Green Stuff)
Two-part epoxy putty available in modelling grades from some
model shopes, and in construction grades from many hardware
stores. Most are green but some are white. Usually work by
mixing equal part of two separate colours together and sets
rock hard. As it is capable of withstanding the heat and
pressure of vulcanised rubber mould making, this material is
used to make the masters that most of our metal miniatures are
made from.
Epoxy Resin:
Two-part liquids used to represent water. Very effective if
you want to embed something or are modelling shallow water
courses. Most will melt foam plastic though.
Gravel:
Fine gravel, aquarium gravel, kitty litter (unused!) Used to
represent smaller rocks
Ground Foam:
Precoloured ground foan rubber made by Woodland Scenics and
available in a wide range of coulours and mixes from most
model shops. Used to represent turned soil, grass, coarse
turf, weeds, leafs, ballast and talus (rocks at the base of
cliffs.)
Lichen:
Available from most model stores it is used to represent
plants. Alternatively you can harvest your own from under
evergreen trees, it seems that the acid from the trees
encourages Lychen growth. Fresh lichen will dry out and become
brittle so it must be treated it with a solution of glycerine
and water. alternatively, dip them in varnish.
Plaster: (Plaster of Paris, Pollyfilla, Spackle, Drywall Compound,
Texture Paint Hydrocal.)
Adds texture and strength to foam terrain and is the basis of
many model railway techniques. Hydrocal is most commonly used.
Many modellers add dye or powdered paint to plaster before
mixing to colour it so that glaring white doesn't show through
the finish if scenery is damaged.
Plastic Card:
Polystyrene is most common but you may find acrylic and other
plastics. More expensive than cardboard, but more versatile
and stronger. Polystyrene is best glued with liquid rather
than tube glue. Other plastics usually require special
adhesives. Model Railroad stores sell a wide range of textured
plastic cards at different scales for brick, stone, corrugated
metal etc.
Plastic Packaging and Bottles:
Many kids toys now come packaged on card and held in place by
clear thermoplastic. This stuff frequently has interesting
shapes. I usually prime the back/inside with black paint
before I assemble something. It's also worth supporting the
plastic (meat trays again!) to give the piece greater
strength. I have seen some impressive Eldar/Elf structures. I
myself have made some very effective Necromunda scenary from
this material.
Plastic Sprue:
The stuff that your plastic models come attached to that most
people throw away. When heated gently over a candle and pulled
will make rods which can then be used as cable or sliced to
represent tivets.
Polystyrene Foam: (StyroFoam SM, Foamular 250, etc...)
This is mana from heavon for terrain/scenarybuilding. At its
simplest level, I use foam plastic meat trays to build all
manner of flat slab structures from Ork buildings to SM
firebases (it's cheaper than Foamcore.) At its most complex, I
have used the packing foam around consumer electronics to make
fortresses, strongholds, aircraft hangers, power plants ...
The only caveat is to protect the foam before you apply any
solvent based paint unless you want that "thermonuclear
meltdown" look. so you need to protect it with a layer of
white glue or plaster. Alternatively, spray with latex paint
instead.
Some people use the extruded foam without the beads (used in
the construction industry as better quality insulation than
"beadboard") for a better texture.
Pot Scouring Pads:
Available flat and twisted into pads (avoid the ones
impregnated with soap!) Makes all manner of foliage clumps.
Sand:
From very fine to coarse and available from beaches
everywhere. A very useful texturing material usually mixed
with white glue and paint to represent leaves, grass, stucco
and dirt.
String:
A wide variety of thicknesses and coarseness. Sisal string can
be pulled apart and used as long grasses. Others can be used
to model rope and can be stiffened with white glue or CA.
Varnish:
Solvent based and acrylic. The acrylic type isn't as tough but
won't dissolve foam plastics.
Wire:
Used to represent pipes and cables and can be twisted into
trunks and branches to make trees. Florists wire is coated
green or brown
which may save som time.
Wood:
Balsa wood is an old standby but any wood can be used. Run a
wire brush along the grain to open it up and add texture
before using it will make drybrushing a breeze.
4.2 Glues
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Caulking:
I find latex and modified latex is best. Holds virtually
anything together yet remains flexible enough to avoid
breakage. Dries reasonably quickly and can be painted.
Cyanoacrylate: (CA, Super or Crazy glue, Zap-a-Gap)
Please note that one of the original uses of this material
were to glue human skin and tissue together in place of
sutures. This stuff will glue you to virtually anything so be
carefull! Cyanoacrylate adhesives (superglue) are easily
soluble in pure acetone. Warn soapy watter and a spoon can
also be used to pry apart your fingers if needed.
PVA: (Polyvinyl Acrylate - white glue, carpenter's glue)
Soak fabrics and string in it to make them stiff. Dilute and
spray to set flock and ground foam foliage. Paint onto
expanded foam before spraying.
4.3 Paints
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Drybrushing:
Terrain builders most valued technique. dip brush in paint
then wipe almost all of it off before lightly dragging it over
your scenery. I usually brush from the top down to recreate
the effects of light.
------------------------------
Subject: 5.0 Tools
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Floracraft Wonder Cutter: Available in many craft stores and from
their Internet site this battery operated tool cuts
polystyrene foam like a hot knife through butter.
TBD
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Subject: 6.0 Basic Techniques
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
TBD
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Subject: 7.0 How do I make ...
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
7.1 Hills, Dunes, Drifts and Craters
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
There are two basic techniques for building hills as follows:
Hint: Don't forget to make a selection of hills of different sizes
ŻŻŻ then you can stack them up to make taller hills or mountains.
Layered: Cut sheets of foam or corrugated cardboard into
ŻŻŻŻŻŻ roughly circular pieces and carve or sand to shape.
Polystyrene roughens up nicely if you want rocky
edges. Test to make sure your models will stand on the
terrain.
Hard Shell: Cardboard or wood is cut to profiles and then covered
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ with a web of masking tape, thin card strips or mesh,
Paper towels or strips of brown paper or newsprint are
soaked in plaster (hydrocal best at a thin creamy
consistency) and layered over the formwork to make a
thin, hard shell.
Texturing: Both methods of construction require some degree of
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ texturing. The simplest method is to apply a layer of
white glue and sand, but I prefer to add a layer of
plaster as this makes the terrain stronger. Paint a
thin mix of plaster and either sprinkle on dirt, or
mix dirt into your plaster before application.
The plaster could be coloured to avoid the glaring
white spots when terrain is damaged.
7.2 Rocks and Cliffs
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Materials:
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Use tree bark chips for rough boulders (available at most home
landscaping stores.)
7.3 Water
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Materials:
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Paint the banks into the water then paint the darker middle of
the water with spray paint. This effectively shades it for
you!
TBD
7.4 Plants
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Many plants can be reproduced in miniature from full size plant
material. Honeysuckle, caspia, and baby's breath can be dried very
effectively.
7.4.1 Grass
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Materials:
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Simplest: Green cloth cut into shapes and placed on table.
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Simple: Sand applied to white glue or mixed into paint,
ŻŻŻŻŻ drybrush with yellow and lighter green.
Off the Shelf: Grass Mat. Can be torn into rough outlines to
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ add interest.
Sand Method: Mix sand with white glue and dark grass coloured paint
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ and apply to terrain. Drybrush highlights with light
grass, yellow and white.
7.4.2 Trees and Shrubs
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Materials:
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Trunks: Twigs, twisted wires wrapped in bandage, epoxy putty,
ŻŻŻŻŻ plastic or metal trunks from kits, drinking straws
textured with hot glue.
Foliage: Wire wool, lichen, teased foam scouring pads, foliage
ŻŻŻŻŻŻ cloth, loofas, pinecones.
Leaves: Flock, sand, dry tea leaves, cut from card, etched
ŻŻŻŻŻŻ metal, plastic aquarium plants, ground foam.
Forests: Rather than making large numbers of individual trees,
ŻŻŻŻŻŻ make sections of forest. These are bases edged with
trees. GW actually suggest that you define the forest
and then any model inside it is hidden from view. This
reduces the number of trees you have to model and
allows easier placement of figures (don't forget
reduced movement rules.)
Very Simple: Pine Cones - collect cones which have opened (you have
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ to hunt for those which are strong enough as they tend
to go soft.) Pull out some of the segments to make a
less symetrical tree. Glue them to you base and spray
black. Dip in glue and roll in ground foliage sponge
(available from most model railroad stores). Dry brush
some highlights. Spray with white glue if you're
concerned about the sponge rubbing off.
Simple: Trees can be made from wire and broom bristles. The
ŻŻŻŻŻ birstles are place between wire doubled over on
itself. The loop end of the wire is placed over a hook
and the loose ends are place in the chuck of a drill
and twisted (I suggest a hand drill unless you want to
have fun with a power drill!) The wire is then cut in
half to make 2 trees. The bristles can be trimmed to
make a variety of different shapes, usually
conifers. The whole thing can then be sprayed black
and leaves applied.
Basing: Smaller individual trees could be mounted on heavy
ŻŻŻŻŻ metal washers to give them stability. I have seen Some
permenant and modular scenery made with pre-drilled
holes so trees may be placed in different places.
Complex: Take a bundle of florests wire as thick as you want
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ the trunk to be and twist them together. As the trunk
gets higher of your model "ground, twist some lengths
off as side branches, Keep going until you have a
trunk of reduced branches. Trim and attach foliage
material, then add leaves.
Shrubs: Basically make small trees.
ŻŻŻŻŻ
Hedges: Fold scouring pads in half, glue and roughen before
ŻŻŻŻŻŻ flocking. Glue to bases with angled ends to allow them
to be combined at different angles. You can make tall
topiary hedges with this method, but they're probably
best modelled at waist height of your average
miniature and roughened up to look more realistic.
7.4.3 Succulents
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Simple: Pipe cleaners coated in plaster
ŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Foam balls covered in flock with red toothpicks has
almost become a GW trademark
7.5 Walls and Fences
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Materials:
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
TBD
7.6 Roads and Paths
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Materials:
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
TBD
7.7 Bridges
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Materials:
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
TBD
7.8 Buildings
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Materials:
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Easiest: Pieces of expanded foam packaging from consumers
ŻŻŻŻŻŻ electronic equipment. Paint them black and drybrush in
your choice of colours.
Card: Cardboard or Foamcore.
ŻŻŻŻ
Plaster can be applied to represent stucco and can be
scored when dry to model bricks or stone blocks. It
can also be modelled when wet into rougher stone
construction. I usually add powder pigments to avoid
the harsh white colour that shows with damage.
A layering technique using geometric shapes cut out of
card will improve the look of your buildings.
Resin: Used in some commercial kits. Can be used to cast
ŻŻŻŻ repeating elements to make complex or mudular
buildings.
Painting: I usually spray buildings black and paint using a
ŻŻŻŻŻŻ drybrush technique. This is the fastest way I know to
recreate very effective light effects and emphasise
textures. If you are using a very light or bright
colour scheme, I suggest a drybrush coat of white or
primer first. Remember to stroke over the model in the
direction of the light for best effect.
------------------------------
Subject: 8.0 Off the Shelf ...
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Woodland Scenics: Make a wide range of landscaping materials for
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ railway modelling. Supply grass mat, trees of various
types in various sizes
TBD
------------------------------
Subject: 9.0 Finishing Touches
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
9.1 Adding Life ...
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
TBD
9.2 Protecting you investment
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
TBD
------------------------------
Subject: 10.0 Other sources of help
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10.1 Books
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
TBD
10.2 Magazines
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
TBD
10.3 Internet
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Gamer's World <http://www.gamerwld.com>
------------------------------
Subject: 11.0 Thanks go to ...
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Cagliostro <le...@pilot.infi.net>
Chtorrr <cht...@aol.com>
D <haki...@sprintmail.com>
John A Dalton <jape...@worldnet.att.net>
Rob Dean <rob...@access4.digex.net>
Demandred <dema...@compusmart.ab.ca>
Eric Jome
Shane Lambert <shane....@homemail.com>
Kirk MacDonald <hag...@gte.net
Andy O'Neill <An...@l-25.demon.co.uk>
Michael J. Sauer <saue...@gold.tc.umn.edu>
Mike Tennent <wbru...@gatenet.net>
Peter Witt <ud...@rzstud1.rz.uni-karlsruhe.de>
------------------------------
Subject: 12.0 Concluding Thoughts
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
Creativity ...