rec.models.scale Ship Modeling FAQ, Part 01/12 (26K)
John Kopf
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 January 1996 00:00:00 GMT
Last-modified: 29 November 1995
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 1) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
Disclaimer: My personal experience is with traditional, static wooden
ship models. Thus the answers below lean toward that aspect. PLEASE
feel free to provide me with information on other aspects (e.g.,
plastic ship models, etc.). My Email address is:
mailto:ko...@aimnet.com .
NOTE: New material each month is flagged with the string "*NEW*".
The questions being addressed are:
(FAQ Part I):
0. Where is the FAQ?
PREPARATION
1. I don't have the patience to build a ship model (?)
2. Where do I get started in making rc model boats?
3. What is a good beginner's model kit to start with?
4. What's the difference between Beginner, intermediate, or
advanced Kits?
5. What tools do I need to get started?
6. What scale should I use?
7. How does one change the scale of plans?
8. What woods are recommended?
(FAQ Part II):
THE HULL
9. How do I scratch-build a modern hull?
10. How do I bend wood for a ship model?
11. How do I use paper templates to check the hull shape?
12. How do I cutting the bevel(s) on a bulkhead/frame of a model?
13. How do you drill the mast holes in a solid-hull ship model?
DETAILS
14. Should models be painted or left natural wood?
15. I'm looking for a source of sheet copper for plating a model?
(FAQ Part III):
16. How is the copper applied?
17. What is "lead sickness"?
RIGGING
18. What can be used for fine rigging line?
19. How does one assemble rigging?
20. How do I install ratlines?
21. Do ratlines extend beyond the futtock shrouds to the lubbers
hole? Is the futtock shroud tied directly to the main shroud.?
22. How can rigging line be made to hang naturally?
23. How do I build small blocks for model sailing ships?
OTHER STUFF...
24. What is meant by "Museum Quality" ship models?
25. Where can I find plans for the Frigate (HMS) Rose?
26. How do I get a ship model appraised (for insurance purposes)?
27. I'am looking for info or suggestings on model subs?
(FAQ Part IV):
28. Why do <your choice> cost so much?
29. Where can I get 1/72 scale coast guard decals?
30. Am modeling a Fletcher and need up to date colors etc.?
31. How do I make small, inexpensive cast plastic fittings?
32. Is CA glue reliable?
(FAQ Part IV):
33. Does anyone have any experience and/or tips on how to use slide
cover glass to make windows?
(FAQ Part VI):
100. Are there any ship modeling clubs?
(FAQ Part VII & VIII):
101. Where can I find... ?
(FAQ Part IX):
102. Where can I find information... ?
(FAQ Part X):
103. What are some good books... ?
(FAQ Part XI & XII):
104. What's available on the Internet?
(The latter five questions have disjoint numbering so I won't have to
renumber frequently.)
###############################################
0) Where is the FAQ?
A: The FAQ is posted at the beginning of each month, to
rec.models.scale, and also to news.answers and rec.answers,
which most sites tend to keep around for a while.
They are archived at (access via FTP):
ftp://mirrors.aol.com/pub/rtfm/usenet/rec.models.scale -or at-:
ftp://ftp.uu.net/usenet/news.answers/ship-models-faq (.ZIP files)
-or at-:
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.models.scale (.ZIP files)
-- or via WWW at:
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/ship-models-faq/
A more complete list appears in Part 11 of the FAQ.
PREPARATION
===========
1) I don't have the patience to build a ship model (?)
A: First of all, "Patience is that attribute required to do
something you DON'T WANT TO DO!"...if you don't want to build
a model, no one will (or CAN) force you to.
However, there are a number of thing you can do to make it more
likely that your patience will be sustained for the duration of
the project:
o Have some idea what you're doing. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS (if
it's a kit). If you don't understand (and many instructions
are "opaque"), ASK someone (see the list of ship Modeling
Clubs, or ask here)!
o If you've never built a (ship) model before, start with a
SIMPLE one (see 3., below). That will help insure that
you'll finish in a reasonable amount of time, and will help
you understand the terminology (i.e., what you call the
"pointy end of the boat", and all those "sticks" and
"string").
o Build yourself a "kit". Most people start with the hull,
which is typically ~10% of the work/time required, and ~90%
of the visual effect (more than once, I've been asked by a
visitor if I've done anything to a model since they've last
seen it (6 months earlier), because I've spent the 6 months
adding details that you have to LOOK for). Instead, BUILD
SUB-ASSEMBLIES FIRST (e.g., the anchor, ship's boats,
cannon/carriages, etc.) -- these can be added to a row of
parts marching across the "mantlepiece"; every time you
look at them you see you're making progress. When you're
done, THEN assemble them into the model.
o Contact other modelers (even if not ship modelers). Even if
they are not doing the same thing you are, being able to ask
a person questions, and explaining your "tricks' is a
stimulus to get your interest up again.
2) I'm interested in starting to make rc model boats and was
wondering if anyone could help me with some info about a good
starter project or perhaps a good beginners book I could use
to get going with?
A: There are several but the best advice I could provide would be
to post this question in rec.models.rc (that news group is being
superceeded by rec.models.rc.water, but is not carried yet at
all sites) where there are a bunch of boat guys. <Larry
Marshall>
***I can suggest several sources but first a couple of
questions:
What sort of subject matter interests you? Tugs, Warships,
Ocean Liners, Race boats, etc.
What sort of price range can you afford?
How long do you want to spend building the project?
What is your level of experience in other modeling areas?
If you can answer these I will try to steer you in the best
direction I can. <Kurt (SeaPhoto)>
3) What is a good beginner's model kit to start with?
A: The following are often recommended:
Bluejacket: Eastport Pinky, Bluenose
Model Shipways: Phantom, Katy, Sultana
A. J. Fisher: Pilot Schooner, Lark
Model Expo: Gjoa, Swift, Scottish Maid, Pinky
Note that this list does NOT contain any of the popular
European kits - these suffer from poor instructions and plans,
inadequate research, and excessive complexity for a beginner;
only a small fraction of the kits sold are ever completed.
4) What's the difference between Beginner, intermediate, or
advanced Kits?
A: This is a good question and difficult to answer. As a designer
for Model Shipways, I do not always agree with the final
category which appears in the catalog. There is naturally an
effort to categorize a model at intermediate or beginner
level - more sales! The recent Pride of Baltimore II kit was
desired as a beginners kit, I felt it an advanced kit, so we
wound up compromising at intermediate level. Here are some of
my thoughts as a designer and model builder:
Beginners -
Solid wood hull is often difficult to shape properly and it
takes some skill to fit templates and carve correctly. It would
then be an intermediate skill. However, many solid hull models
can be completed by the beginner simply by sanding it without
regard to total accuracy. Consequently, on the smaller models
with a solid hull the beginner can handle it. So, the beginner
should know something about sanding wood, and at least have the
skill to do some "pocket knife" carving.
The beginner should have some basic understanding of a ship,
knowing a deck from a mast and be able to read the plans and
instructions. If the model has rigging, the beginner should be
able to at least tie a knot to fake a seizing.
Since most models are painted, the beginner should have done
some painting with brushes and know how to make reasonably
smooth brush strokes. The beginner also needs to know a little
something about gluing parts together with white glue.
The beginner should possess the ability to stick with the
project a reasonable length of time, understanding that it
cannot be built in a hurry, and understand that a wooden model
will take a longer time and require more part making than say
compared with a plastic model where the parts are basically
complete.
Intermediate-
For solid hulls, the modeler should be able to use gouges and
chisels for removing wood and have the patience to work longer
on a large hull. For the POB hulls, the modeler should have
the skill to use a hobby knife and saw and cut parts accurately
to lines. Cutting bevels on the bulkheads and tapering planking
is important, and use of the tools is essential.
Intermediate models start to have many small parts for deck
furniture. The modeler must be able to handle and assemble
(glue) small parts together accurately and to keep them to
scale. In rigging, there will be more to do, so the modeler
must have the patience to spend the time to complete the rig.
They should have the ability to "think out" the rigging
beforehand, and also know how to push and pull lines about with
rigging tool aids.
The painting of the model is going to be more difficult. The
modeler should know how to plan painting the various parts and
proceed in an orderly fashion, so as not to work their way into
a hole.
Advanced-
Most advanced models are really just more of the same. The same
skills are required for the most part. The name of the game is
patience. The Flying Fish model from Model shipways is an
advanced project. It was always a big seller to beginners and
advanced modelers alike. From old Model Shipways, John Shedd,
I was told that it was a good seller, but less completed model.
Modelers start but never finish the model. My only thought is
that they loose patience and get bored with the project over a
very long time period. So, you must have the patience and
endurance for advanced projects.
Like the intermediate model, the advanced model has even more
rigging involved, but if you can rig a single mast you can
certainly rig two. The skill is the same. An advanced project
will require you to do more detailing and the tying of simple
knots is not likely to be satisfactory. Consequently, you
should have the skill to make seizings of lines, wraping them
with fine thread.
The advanced project will probably get you more into soldering.
The Flying Fish is a good example. There are many iron fittings.
So, you should have the skill to cut, shape, and solder small
brass parts. Sometimes, you can substitute other methods in
lieu of soldering. You should have the ability to make these
decisions and know that the result will be satisfactory.
Painting again will be difficult but should not be any more
involved than on an intermediate model. <Ben Lankford>
5) What tools do I need to get started?
A: In most all of the recent Model Shipways kits, the instruction
book lists those tools that are needed for the particular model.
However, this list has almost become boiler plate in the
instruction books I prepared. Here's a composite of my list:
A. Knives and saws
1. Hobby knife
2. No.11 blades
3. Razor saw or jeweler's saw
B. Files
Set of needle files
C. Clamps
1. A few small C-clamps
2. Wooden clothespins
3. Rubber bands, #16 and #33
D. Tool Set
A small carving tool set or individual gouges and
chisels for carving keel rabbets, tapering the stem,
or carving solid hull models.
E. Sharpening Stone
Necessary to keep tools razor sharp
F. Boring Tools
1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #80
2. 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8" drills
3. Pin vise
G. Miscellaneous
1. Tack hammer
2. Tweezers (a few)
3. Small fine pointed scissors
4. Miniature pliers
a. small round
b. flat nose
5. Bench vise (small)
6. Soldering iron or torch
a. solder
b. flux
7. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire and strip metal)
My response regarding tools was primarily for the "minimum"
needs, obviously addressing hand tools. There is also one power
tool that I keep on my minimum list, for models as well as
large woodworking projects. That is the band saw. I have never
been without one, and never will. To me it is the most useful
power tool in any shop, for fancy cuts, stripping, or just
plain cutting a piece of scrap wood in half.
For model work, a small band saw is desirable. I had been
using a large Sears saw up to a few years ago. However, I
bought a speed reducer for it, and now use it exclusively for
cutting metal. Of course, you can change the reducer, and
change the blade for wood cutting. But I'm to old for wasting
that much time. I decided to invest in a small model band saw.
Well, Micro Mark had just advertised a new Black and Decker
band saw for the modeler. I jumped at it. But boy was I
disappointed. This was a big piece of junk. I think it had
a wooden or rock gear drive. It was so noisy you could not
believe it. It was also not accurate, would not line up, and
the case and other parts pure trash. I was not happy that Micro
Mark sold such a thing. Well, maybe they got the word too,
because they soon dumped it, or maybe B&D did.
What I have now, and good old Micro Mark is selling it also,
is the new Delta 8 inch band saw. This is one dreamboat. It is
so quiet you can hardly hear it running. Very accurate and the
case and all parts are of excellent metal and machined very
well. It cuts smooth as silk. I generally use a 1/8" blade
which is very thin. You can get this saw for a song at the big
stores like Home Depot, and some mail order.
As a model band saw, cutting small stuff, I added a new plastic
laminate table on top of the metal table. Saw a slit to the
center with the blade and you have a nice table without the big
hole around the blade. <Ben Lankford>
***While I now have a pretty good stable of power tools, I have
scratchbuilt hulls using a coping saw. While a jig saw
certainly makes life easier, it is not absolutely essential. I
used thinner lifts, and these actually make shaping the hull
easier anyway, although it is more work cutting more layers.
Of course, that may require re-lofting the waterlines, but that
doesn't take more than a couple of hours.
Of course, this requires that the hull be built bread-and-
butter, but I always do that anyway. Wood gets expensive when
you want a single large block.
The thing I like about scratch building is that I can pick my
own scale, and can build any ship I want, not just the ones
that are kitted. <Don Stauffer>
***The only power tool I have is my dremel! No real workbench,
no large saws, not many tools bigger than an Exacto, I borrowed
a table saw & other tools at a friend's house to do the first
cuts on the Incomparable hull) That's why I don't scratchbuild
more than I do. Kits, even inaccurate ones, require far fewer
facilities, and far less time to make into an acceptable model.
<David R. Wells>
***The producers of model kits supply wood and metal parts for
a completed kit of average detail. A "good" kit will have plans
which allow the dedicated and experienced modeller ample scope
for adding more detail. Generally, you have to supply some
materials yourself.
I think you will add more tools and materials to your workshop
with each kit you build. <Septimus>
6) What scale should I use?
A: Ship models have been built in various scales, from 6"=1' (the
model of the whaling bark Lagoda in the New Bedford Museum) to
1"=100' and even smaller. Obviously, the smaller the scale,
the smaller the model (and all of the details thereon); the
larger the scale, the easier it is to put in fine detail.
A "museum quality" ship model (see # 21, Part II) generally
shows all details that will have a dimension of at least 1/16th
inch on the model.
Common scales are specified in one of two ways, either as a
pair of dimensions (e.g., 1/4 inch = 1 foot), or as a
dimensionless ratio (e.g., 1:48). The latter is probably a
better usage, since one unit on the model corresponds to *n*
units on the actual ship (no matter WHAT units are being used...
inches, feet, metric, "points", etc.; it also avoids confusion
(is a 1/16 model 1:16 or 1"=16' ?)
Probably the most important criteria is: how much room do you
have to display the model? Consider the Queen Mary -- Overall
Length = 1,019.5 ft. (310.74 m.) -- admittedly an extreme
example, and the U.S.S. Constitution ("Old Ironsides") --
length (between perpendiculars) = 175 ft.
Scale Length of model: Q.M. Constitution
1:2 6"=1' 509' 9" 87' 6"
1:3 4"=1' 339' 10" 58' 4"
1:4 3"=1' 254' 10" 43' 9"
1:6 2"=1' 169' 11" 29' 2"
1:12 1"=1' 84' 11" 14' 7"
7:96 7/8"=1' 74' 4" 12' 9"
1:16 3/4"=1' 63' 9" 10' 11"
1:24 1/2"=1" ==> 1" = 2' 42' 6" 7' 3"
1:32 3/8"=1' 31' 10" 5' 6"
1:36 1"=3' 28' 3" 4' 10"
1:48 1/4"=1' (1"=4') 21' 3" 3' 8"
1:60 1"=5' 17' 2' 11"
1:64 3/16"=1' 15' 11" 2' 9"
1:72 1"=6' 14' 2" 2' 5"
1:96 1"=8' 10' 7" 1' 10"
1:128 3/32"=1' 7' 11" 1' 4"
1:196 1/16"=1' 5' 3" 11"
1:384 1/32"=1' 2' 6" 6"
1:500 2' 4"
1:700 1' 6" 3"
1:768 1/64"=1' 1" 4" 3"
1:1000 1' 2"
1:1200 0' 10" 2"
Kits often are to a scale "that fits the box" -- I have an
ancient set of kit plans for the Normandy at 1:686 ! And, of
course, there are other, "bastard" scales (model railroad "HO"
scale is 1:87.1 ==> 3.5 mm = 1"). The "popular" scales seem to
be: 1:500 (plastic warships), 1:96 (modern ships), 1:48
(sailing ships), 1:24 & 1:12 (small boats).
*** How much space do you have to devote to your collection?
1:48, 1:96 and 1:192 are popular (but not exclusive) scales
used in maritime and naval museums in the U.S. In Europe,
Metric scales (e.g., 1:100, 1:200, etc.,) seem to dominate.
-- mailto:ralco...@aol.com (RAlcorn824)
***I have seen various postings on the net proposing a
standard modeling scale for naval ship models, 1/700 being
too small for those of us with crappy vision, and 1/350 being
only great if you have a stadium to display your finished
models (1/500 would be great, too). Well, my humble proposal
is (no surprise) 1/600. <joseph w. reyna <mailto:re...@nosc.mil> >
***To a large extent I agree. Also, most 1/700 scale ships
are waterline models. I hate them. I like working on props,
rudders, bilge keels, etc.
Most of my fleet is between 1/450 and 1/600.
Thanks to the folks on r.m.s., I've been working on more 1/600
Airfixes lately. My British collection is getting to be quite
big, and it will soon outgrow its display box.
Also, Arii makes Yamato class & Iowa class battleships in
1/600.
Keep in mind that Frog, Renwal and Nichimo also put out 1/500
scale ships. Find them if you can. Frog & Renwal are gone,
(the Frog molds are in Russia, and Revellogram has the Renwal
molds) and the Nichimos are rare.
A standard scale is exactly what is needed. Unfortunately,
the standard is now 1/700 waterline. For good, bad, or
indifferent, most of the model kits today come from the Far
East, and they are the staunchest supporters of the 1/700
standard. They aren't going to make all new molds just for us.
There aren't enough ship modelers to make it worth their
while. Similarly, Revellogram is going to continue with their
"box scale", simply because they aren't making any new ship
molds, and they get by with just re-issuing their old stuff.
As much as I would like to see a 1/500 or 1/600 full hull
standard scale, it isn't going to happen. <D. Wells>
***Ever tried Heller's 1:400? Good stuff :-) <John G. Burns>
***That depends on *what* you build. True a 1:350 battleship
may be big but a destroyer or a sub is about the size of a
1:48 airplane.
This scale is not as bad as you may believe. Here are some
dimensions for the ships that we as ship modelers need in
this scale:
USS Pennslyvania BB38 20.84" x 3.43"
USS St. Louis CL49 20.57" x "2.12"
USS Alaska CB1 30.21" x 3.13"
USS Saratoga CV3 32.17" x 3.30"
And the detail to these that someone could do would far exceed
any of these other smaller scales! <REDBOZO6>
7) How does one change the scale of plans?
A: In the past, people made do with pantographs, proportional
dividers, and basically redrew the plans by hand.
Today, people use "copiers" to scale drawings up or down. A
typical copier can enlarge or reduce a drawing by from 64% to
142%. Unfortunately, this doesn't help much if you need to
change the scale more than this amount. However, you can still
get by making partial scale changes -- for example, expanding
by 141% and then expanding the first expanded copy by another
141% gives you 1.41 x 1.41 = 1.9881; expanding it by 142%
instead gives 2.0022...either is probably close enough to 2x to
be acceptable.
When enlarging, lines tend to get broader (and "muddier") --
set the copier to "light" to help reduce this effect.
Copiers tend to "stretch" the drawing more in one direction
than the other (this is supposedly to prevent the copying of
paper money -- the resulting image won't match in change-making
machines). If you are doing multiple expansions/compressions,
try to change the orientation of the drawing each time (from
horizontal to vertical, etc.) so that the error introduced in
one operation is canceled out in the next.
If you anticipate needing multiple copies, do them all at once,
using the same batch of paper -- that way stretching or
shrinking of the paper is more likely to be uniform for all
copies than if you made copies at different times using
different lots of paper.
Finally, commercial copy shops can frequently make larger
copies, and/or bigger scale-changes with one pass. In order to
help them produce a copy of the correct size, draw a pair of
lines somewhere on your source, at right angles to one another,
and properly scaled and annotated with something like "enlarge
to 6 inches long" -- that way you won't have to explain about
the (often obscure) scale that is on the plans themselves. (If
you are using historical foreign sources, make sure what units
are actually being used -- for example, Chapman has scales in
Swedish, French, and English feet...all are different!)
*** Whatever fits, it seems. Plans I use range from 1/2" =
1' to 1/32"=1' much smaller than this becomes self defeating,
even if you are building a model to a smaller scale.
-- mailto:ralco...@aol.com (RAlcorn824)
8) What woods are recommended?
A: A large variety of woods exist...some of these are useful for
ship models:
apple - good for planking...bends easily
balsa - TOO SOFT for ship model use! (At least on
surfaces; occasionally useful for "spacers"
used internally.)
bamboo - tough, easily split; used for trunnels, etc.
basswood - soft but readily available
boxwood - the best for find detail carving
clear pine - for bread-and-butter hulls
cherry - fairly common, fine grain, somewhat brittle
degama - good for masts and spars
ebony - Black! very hard and brittle, doesn't bend
easily
holly - White! good for decking, carving
pear - works like cherry but brown instead of red,
and not brittle.
ANY wood can be stained to look like ebony using black india
ink as a stain. <John O. Kopf>
***At some point you are going to substitute the relatively
soft, weak wood strips supplied in the kit with very dense,
close-grained exotic hardwoods like pearwood, boxwood,
lancewood, and applewood. The kit producers will furnish you
with basswood because it is commercially available and not very
costly. Don't feel badly about upgrading or adding to the
materials supplied in the kit. <Septimus>
John Kopf
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 January 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 3) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part I of the FAQ.
###############################################
16) How is the copper applied? I'm about to copper my first ship
and have some questions:
1. What is the best glue to use on the plates
2. How to I age the plates. I wants to make the coppering
look old rather than shiny
3. Do I copper from the waterline down or the keel up (ship
is British circa 1800
A. According to Harold Underhill's "Plank On Frame Models", the
copper was supplied in sheets 48" long and 15-18" wide. It was
laid brick-work fashion, in three "goring belts", with each
piece overlapping the ones below and theone aft. The objective
was to conserve metal, NOT to look pretty.
On a model, coppering looks best if the nail pattern is
somehow embossed into the individual plates -- un-embossed
plates are visually much less interesting. The coppering also
hides the planks, which frankly looks more interesting than the
plating will.
The first step is to apply the copper to the stem, keel, and
sternpost, "running length-wise along them, the side sheets
being turned down round the outer faces...all of which were
then covered by a wrapper plate extending down the front of the
stem, along the length of the keel, and up the aft side of the
sternpost, put on in 4' sections of course".
Next, successive rows of copper are applied parallel to the
keel and running up the stem and sternpost until about half way
up to the waterline.
From the top of the belt at the bow and stern run a fair
batten around the bilge, and mark this line on the hull.
Continue the first belt up to this line, cutting the individual
plates along this line as necessary.
Lay out a second line parallel and below the waterline, two
strips wide (three wide for larger ships).
Begin the second belt as before, starting at the top of the
lower belt but with the individual plates full size. Continue
this up until the top row the plates as necessary at this line.
Finally, install the two (or three) upper rows to form the
third goring belt ending at the waterline.
You will now have three "belts" of plating; the first at the
bottom, the second above "cutting off" the lower belt, and the
third (top) belt again "cutting off" the middle belt.
<John O. Kopf>
***I use contact cement, particularly Walther's Goo (available
wherever model railroading is sold). I have never had a plate
fall off of this.
Are you starting with individual plates or a whole sheet of
copper. A good way to start making the copper look different
is by heating each individual plate with a propane torch (or
similar device). The plate will discolor and each one will
appear different.
Some washes of white and green over the copper after it is on
the ship will go along way to making it look weathered. Apply
the washes in a downward motion so it streaks from top to
bottom.
Copper the keel, stem, and stern first. Then copper from the
waterline down, fore to aft. Make sure you overlap the plates
slightly. <Dave Loseke>
***I don't know about putting the plates on or which way to go,
but for the weathering, The following worked on a plastic model
with a Copper Metalizer paint. I filled a container with warm
salt water. It must be big enough to set the model in up to the
water line, and I used table salt. I then placed the model in
the salt water up to the waterline. It sat in the water for
about 3 minutes. The model was hung over the bathtub and
allowed to drip dry stern down. This was repeated every other
day for one week. When finished, the hull had been dipped 4
times. I mounted it to the base and continued with the
construction of the deck fittings, masts and rigging. This
took appx 90 days to finish, working about 4 to 5 evemings a
week. By the time I had completed the model, the natural
oxidation of the saltwater on the copper finish had produced a
very worn and greenish looking lower hull. The chemical action
had apparently stopped working by the time I finished the
model, as I did not notice any further color shifts over the
following two years that I had the model in my possition.
<John Huggins>
***why do modelers want to make a copper hull green? did you
ever see a copper hull? When it is new and first done it is of
course copper color. So if you want your model to look new,
leave it copper.
On the other hand, if the ship has been in salt water, and you
remove it, it is a very bright copper color. It only turns
green after its been hauled out and exposed to air for a long
time. An active ship, with a copper bottom has a bright shiney
copper color.
A ship out of the water, high and dry, like maybe CUTTY SARK
will be green. and old model, not properly cared for will be
green. <Ron Ginger>
***I was going to recommend Bare Metal's Copper Foil as well,
but I didn't know if it would work due to the fact that
everything sheet of foil I've seen except for the chrome finish,
is somewhat wrinkled all over, and I don't know if it will lend
itself to chemical weathering, I don't ship model, however, I
liked the propane torch, and salt water tips, very clever.
However, there is a product available (somewhere) that
'antiques' copper to a streaky black finish. I used it in Jr.
High School years ago to age a copper sheet that had been 'awl
punched' with a design. This stuff smells like rotten eggs, and
for some reason, I think it contains ammonia, and possibly
sulfur. <David Cooper>
17) What is "lead sickness"?
A: Model fittings which contain lead have a bad reputation of
frequently "decaying" after 10-20 years. Current thinking is
that the cause is the presence of Antimony in the alloy. This
metal is used to make the molten metal more fluid. Apparently,
it crystalizes out of the melt as the metal solidifies; the
result is that on the crystalline level dissimilar metals are
in contact (if they didn't separate, the metals would be mixed
at the atomic level). The result is that in the presence of
water (or other chemicals) a galvanic reaction is set up (a
tiny battery is formed) which causes chemical reactions to
occur; the lead oxidizes into lead monoxide PbO, accompanied
by the formation of antimony hydride SbH3 (stilbine) which is
a gas and escapes into the atmosphere. Most "soft" solders
and "type metal" contain both lead and antimony.
An alternative is "Brittania metal" which is 93% tin, 5%
antimony, and 2% copper.
"Traditional" Pewter can contain up to 7% antimony, 20% lead,
4% copper, and the rest tin. Modern Pewter is sold as "lead
free", and so probably doesn't have the problem.
(This description is based on a letter by William G. Webb in
Model Shipbuilder #87.)
*** for some reason, many lead compounds commonly used in
making model ship fittings deteriorate after 5 to 20 years,
actually turning to a powdery substance. Therefore, almost
every maritime/naval museum I have had contact with specifies
that no lead alloys may be used in construction of models.
Preferred substitute is called "Britannia Metal," and no, I
don't know the make-up, but Bluejacket, among others, advertise
parts in this metal. -- mailto:ralco...@aol.com (RAlcorn824)
RIGGING
=======
18) What can be used for fine rigging line?
A: Traditionally, linen thread has been proven in use for hundreds
of years.
***I went through the same thing and finally found *the* answer:
nylon monofiliment fishing line. Use 1lb test and drag it across
the top of a permanent ink marker to blacken it, then attach
it w/super glue. You get the tension, it won't pull loose (well,
not easily) and it looks *great*!
(response from Alexander Ishii):
Mono fishing line is available in different colors, including
"black" (no real need for using the permanent marker).
Generally, however, the various colors are more expensive than
regular fishing line; particularly, if the color is only
available as "tippet" material (a particular kind of fishing
line).
***You can also use fine wire. One source I've found locally
(silicon valley) is a "pulse transformer"...these use copper
wire .005 (more or less). They are frequently encapsulated in
epoxy, but the shell can be broken off and the wire salvaged.
I've not used it, but I understand that tungsten wire is made
for light-bulbs in sizes down to .0005 inch! I also understand
that it is dangerous to work with, because it is so strong that
the possibility of amputation is very real! The ultimate in
"paper cuts". Anyway, one might be able to get a couple of
feet of this from a light-bulb manufacturer and try using it.
Of course, how do you CUT it?
19) How does one assemble rigging?
A: Normally, one does the "standing rigging" (that which holds up
the masts, etc.) FIRST, and then the "running rigging" (that
which works the sails -- these lines are the ones with PULLEYS).
Because of the complexity of the rigging, it's best to start at
the bottom and center and work your way up and out...if you put
the outer lines on first, then you have to work THROUGH them to
reach the inner lines.
When possible, it's best to apply as much rigging to a mast on
the workbench BEFORE actually mounting it on the model, and
then finishing it off. "helping hands" are useful for such
tasks as putting strops around blocks, but not much help when
working on the model itself. A couple of hemostats (I find mine
at the local flea market) are useful, but I tend to use them
most to attach to the end of a line as a weight to keep it
straight while working on it. Tweezers are also useful, and
a couple of other tools you can make yourself out of knitting
needles and dowels for handles:
take a needle, mash one end flat, and file a V in the end --
useful to PUSH ropes; Take another, mash the end, and drill a
small hole through it -- useful to thread a line through the
hole to work a line through the rigging; Take a third, flatten
the end, and file a hook on one side -- useful to PULL a line
through the rigging.
***Some of the best little tools I have ever used on boat
rigging came from my mom's sewing basket! Needle threaders are
invaluable for threading the rigging through eyelets. A good
pair of tweezers is a help, but the best kind are the
"reversable" tweezers, the kind that apply pressure when you
are NOT gripping them. Great for guiding tricky threads.
Finally, a good pair of manicuring scissors for the fine
cutting and clipping needed. I have a pair with points so tiny
on them that it is hard to see the cutline they make.
(This paragraph submitted by Aaron Taylor)
20) How do I install ratlines?
A: My current practice is to install the masts without the yards
but including any masthead platforms. After installing the
shrouds in a prototypical manner, I use the "smallest" gauge
needle I can lay my hands on to sew the ratlines through the
shrouds. In any reasonable scale the prototypical knots will
be virtually invisible if you are using appropriately sized
thread. After the tedious sewing job is done I brush a semi-
gloss black enamel to simulate the tarred seizing of the
shrouds. This also cements the ratlines into place permanently,
so make any needed adjustments before reaching for the
paintbrush!
(Answer from: John Bonnett)
Stretching the thread and soaking it with a thin wash of white
glue and letting it dry will stiffen it, which may be an
advantage (but real ratlines were NOT straight -- they hung in
curves between the shrouds).
21) Do ratlines extend beyond the futtock shrouds to the lubbers
hole? Is the futtock shroud tied directly to the main shroud.?
A: Futtock shrouds are terminated at lower ends in a variety of
ways, depending on which mast, and how large a ship. For
larger masts they usually were NOT tied to shrouds of mast
below.
(Answer provided by: Don Stauffer)
22) How can rigging line be made to hang naturally?
A: Try washing the thread on warm soapy water, rinse it out, and
hang up to dry with a weight on the end so it doesn't develop a
lot of kinks. This will remove any "sizing" that makes the line
stiff. The alternative is "spinning" your own rope from fine
threads -- this is a lot of work but results in very "limp"
rope. If neither of these work, you may also be able to mix up
white glue and water with a drop of detergent (as a wetting
agent), soak the thread, and while still wet apply it to the
model; then let it dry in place using a piece of scrap as a
"form" to give it it's shape.
23) Could someone 'in the know' give me advice on how to build small
blocks for model sailing ships? I'm talking about blocks about
1/16 - 3/32 inch in size. What's the recommended technique, what
type of wood is best, etc?
A. Get a long piece of strip stock the same cross section as your
block should look. For instance, if you want a block to be
3/32 high and 1/16 wide as viewed looking straight through the
hole then get a piece of 3/32 x 1/16 x 12 strip stock (or cut
your own!). Round the edges of the strip with sand paper.
Drill the correct number of holes into the stock from the end.
Drill only deep enough to cover the depth of a couple of block.
This will insure that the hole(s) run true. If you try to do
too deep the holes will wander off center.
Now for each block (I usually do 3 - 5 at a time) make a score
around the strip stock to create the groove for stroping the
block. What you are doing is working down the strip stock
creating a few blocks at a time. It is easier to work with
them on the strip.
Now cut each block out seperately and round with sand paper.
Finish with stroping of your choice.
v v v grooves around strip for strops
------------------------------
! ! ! |
==!===!===!== < hole
! ! ! |
-----------------------------
^ ^ ^ cut here when grooves are cut
This is a very simple method but it works for me. If you can
get the hole to run true you can mass produce a number of
blocks at a time this way.
Boxwood is a nice wood to work with but I have has success with
basswood using this method. You need a fine grain so the wood
won't splinter when you drill the hole. <David Loseke>
***Personaly, I cheated and bought the ones for my model of
HMS Victory from Model EXPO. They list single sheaves down
to 3/32. I found that 1/8 was the right size for a 1/98 scale.
<George Wallace>
OTHER STUFF...
==============
24) What is meant by "Museum Quality" ship models?
A. This topic has been discussed regularly in the Journal of the
Nautical Research Guild.
Edward P. Von der Porten, former director of the Army, Navy,
and Coast Guard Museum near San Francisco says "A museum
quality ship model is whatever a museum director accepts for a
museum collection". In general, the model (or artifact) must be
able to convey part of a carefully thought out STORY to a
thoroughly analyzed AUDIENCE. If the exhibit concerns ship
"crafts", sailor-built models, half-models, and ships in bottles
may have a role, even if inaccurate.
In a diorama (for example, in the 2-MILE section of Omaha Beach
to be displayed aboard the Jeremial O'Brian, using 1:1200
models), a uniform scale is important (for this example, detail
is not).
On the other hand, Dana M. Wegner reports that the standards
used by the U. S. Navy and Smithsonian have been relatively
unchanged since 1945:
o It is reasonable for a model to last 100 years before
deterioration becomes visible. Resistance to actions of
temperature, humidity, and light is essential...some recently
developed model-building materials and techniques should be
avoided until sufficient time has passed to properly evaluate
their longevity...It is advised that fiberglass resins,
styrene, expanding foams, casting resins, and cyanoacrylate
glues be avoided when other materials can possibly be used.
o 'Workmanship shall be in accordance, in every respect, with
the best model-building practices. Hulls shall be smooth,
fair, and symmetrical; without blemishes, sap pockets, or tool
marks, and shall be scraped and sand-papered to smooth surface.
Machined parts shall bear no tool marks. Castings shall
contain no visible mold marks.'
o Any item with any SCALE dimension of 1/8" or greater must be
reproduced...work must be consistent [no super-detailing of
one part of the model contrasting with lesser levels of detail
elsewhere].
o A great deal is specified about acceptable and required
materials (e.g., 'Propellers should be cast in bronze...
Plastic propellers are not permitted').
o 'Painting of models shall receive careful attention...All
parts of the model shall have a surface treatment representing
the actual vessel if reduced in scale...models shall be spray
painted with opaque lacquer. Paint shall be applied thinly
and evenly so that fine detail will not be obliterated. The
use of metallic paints such as silver or gold is discouraged.
The use of white enamel or natural varnish is not permitted'...
'Wooden parts shall be sufficiently filled and primed so that
when rubbed down, the wood grain is not visible.'
{ The full set of specifications can be found in: Department
of Ship Model Scales and Service. Ship Model Classification
Guidelines [Mystic, Connecticut: Mystic Seaport Museum Stores,
1983] It was also published in part in Ships in Scale 6-34
(March/April 1989)} -- what this all boils down to is that the
purpose of a ship model is to support a coat of paint of the
correct SHAPE!
*** Write the Mystic Seaport museum. Their definitions are
pretty close to universal, from my experience. By the way,
they also sell your ship models "if" they meet the standards.
Basically, Kit bilt, kit modified,, kit-bashed and completely
scratch. Restrictions also on materials, adhesives, etc. It's
worth the stamp for the information. check your local library
for the mailing address. "directory of American Museums") --
mailto:ralco...@aol.com (RAlcorn824)
25) Where can I find plans for the Frigate (HMS) Rose?
A: There was some interest expressed a few days ago in using the
modern reconstruction of the eighteenth century English frigate
"Rose" as a subject for shipmodeling. My caution is that since
the Rose is a reconstruction rather than a replica (that is,
a general rather than an exact copy), she is not a good subject
for modeling. It would be better to go back to the builders
original research materials, starting with the British Admiralty
plans of 1756, obtainable from the National Maritime Museum at
Greenwich.
For a very interesting article on the building of the
reconstruction, see "HMS Rose and Providence, Some Lessons
Learned the Hard Way", by John Fitzhugh Millar, in "Seaways",
Vol. II, No. 5, Sept-Oct 1991. You can find out about the
modern ship (or even book passage!) at:
HMS Rose Foundation
One Bostwick Ave
Bridgeport CT 06605
(203) 335-1433
***On the net, try: http://www.synergy.net/SeaLore/sealore.html .
<Clayton A. Feldman>
26) How do I get a ship model appraised (for insurance purposes)?
("The Gallery" in Galveston buys and sells only ship models.
The director was the only person I had success locating that
appeared to be able to make an appraisal and issue a certificate
that an insurance company would honor. They appear to be a
reputable outfit and have advertised for quite some time in
"Seaway's Ships in Scale" magazine. IF he is qualified to
perform this duty via photos, I would rather spend $50 and know
my ship is insured than not. I was hoping to hear from others
who may have references for other appraisers and their
respective fees, etc. Although I have never had a model stolen,
I have had plastic models destroyed in moves. The government
only paid the cost of buying a new model, not for the time and
other expenses involved, which is understandable.)
A: Most appraisers are NOT familiar with ship models! As a result,
their "Appraisals" must be taken with a grain of salt. There
are specialists who can do a good job, but they're hard to find.
Several are listed in the FAQ, and if they are not conveniently
located they may be able to steer you to someone in your area.
The fee for an appraisal varies, but is frequently some
percentage of the appraised value.
*** Tricky question, because it's not a heavily populated field.
I would suggest more or less in order the following:
1) curator(s) of the nearest maritime or naval museum.
2) curators of other such museums.
3) Southeby's or other international auction houses. ((Expect
to pay a bill around 10% or the appraised value))
4) Owners/operators of specialty shops in the area
(particularly if you live or sell in a maritime area like
Annapolis, Baltimore, Boston, Charlestown, ...San
Francisco, etc.) If there is a 'port' or 'maritime museum'
nearby, someone has experience selling models.
5) A bank located near a port or historic port area - offer
them one as a 'visual enhancement' to their lobby, etc.,
and find out what the traffic will bear.
-- mailto:ralco...@aol.com (RAlcorn824)
27) I'am looking for a tried and true sub plans, preferably, but
will accept any info or suggestings on model subs. All info
will be appreciated.
A. OK, model subs... As with everything else, depends on what
you're after. There are very few polystyrene kits of US WWII
subs (Revell Lionfish) and several 1:700 scale modern subs of
both US and Soviet (Russian) build. There are a few
polystyrene kits of WWII U-boats, type VII and XXII. Both of
these are available with internal components that are displayed
through cutouts in one side. In resin, MB (Blue Water) makes a
series of kits including WWII Gato class, S boat, and a number
of modern subs (SSN, SSBN and Russian Kilo diesel boat).
Supposedly, Tom's Model Works is going to release a resin of
WWII diesels that can be built as Gato, Balao or Guppy versions.
Coming out real soon now..... (I was told this month). Also
coming up is a rerelease of the Nautilus (SSN-571) in
September, in polystryrene.
If you want to do your own through plans or get a really
large size hull (1:96), contact the Floating Drydock in
Kresgeville, Pa. They stock plans for a large selection of
subs and fiber glass hulls (not cheap) for a building your own
WWII diesel boat. <Tom Dougherty>
John Kopf
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 January 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 2) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part I of the FAQ.
###############################################
THE HULL
========
9) I have some plans I bought from Floating Drydock a few years
ago of the Montana-class battleship and Alaska-class cruiser.
I'd really love to scratchbuild these guys in the future, which
leads me to my inquiry...
None of the articles in the modelling mags show how people have
scratchbuilt their ship hulls. I'm wondering what experiences
others have had in doing it, especially what techniques work
the best for them.
A. A lot depends on the scale you're using, and on the intended
purpose. The best method for a 1:1200 waterline model is
probably carving from the solid; for a large model either
bread-and-butter, planked bulkhead, or some combination of the
two will probably serve best. <John O. Kopf>
***If you are considering building a hull for display on a
fairly large scale check the these references: Scale Ship
Modeler, June 1995, Mike Winters has an article on building a
cruiser (USS Memphis) using bread and butter method using
styrofoam insulation panel instead of wood. I have been working
on a liner at 1:192 and found this material easy to work with
and am quite satisfied with result. I modified Winters
technique, though. Try Scale Ship Modeler March/April 1995
where Jack Melody describes building the battleship USS IOWA
(1896 vintage) at 1/20, 1 inch=20 ft. using a hull made partly
of solid balsa block below waterline and bulkheads above with
balsa sheathing. <Al Rauber>
***Mine is not the approved method, but here's how I always did
it.
1) Take appropriate size chunk of wood.
2) Using saber saw, band saw, whateversaround, cut out the
basic outline of the ship.
3) Make templates from the hull sections on your plans.
4) Carve/file/sand the hull until it conforms to the templates.
OK, that's a gross oversimplification, but the basic technique
is there.
I freely admit that I did not use the bread-and-butter method.
The reason is that I worked in relatively small scales,
(1/500-1/600) and big-enough wood was readily available.
<David R. Wells>
***I seem to recall that the Nov/Dec '94 issue of Model Ship
Builder magazine had an article about scratch-building a hull
of the type you are referring to. I believe the author was a
long-time builder of static-display wooden sailing ship models
(I'm working from memory, here) and he decided to build a model
of a more modern ship as a change of pace. Some scratch builders
construct their hulls with plastic sheet, but his approach was
much like building a sailing ship model, with plywood bulkheads
and wooden strip planking. If you can find a current issue of
MSB, you can probably back-order that issue for about $6.25 or
so. <Brett Denner>
***OK, I'll chime in on this. First and foremost, you're in
real good shape with those plans. In looking at the listings
in The Floating Drydock's catalog, your Alaska plans will have
the hull sections you need for building the hull. As for the
Montana, go out and fing a copy of Dulin & Garzke's "U.S.
Battleships" (ISBN:1-55750-174-2). In the section on the
Montana's you'll find a set of hull lines for her.
Now the fun (?) part. Hull sections (HS) look like a funny
drawing of the hull with one half looking aft and one half
looking forward. On each of these halfs, there are curves
lines that are labeled with either numbers or letters. These
lines are frame references, and they'll correspond to marks
below the outboard profile (OP) view. These marks show where
each of the lines on the HS drawing are located according to
the OP.
To build from these, I use the plank on frame method. What you
want to do is to set out a keel dimensioned to the length of
the bottom of the hull on the OP. It doesn't matter the shape
right now. Next, use the HS drawing to make each of the
bulkheads shown. Now remember, you're looking at half of it,
so duplicate the left (or right) side for each bulkhead.
Number each bulkhead as you make them so that you can keep
track of them. Next. mark the positions of the bulkheads from
the OP on to the keel piece. Attach the bulkheads to the keel
at the proper places, and you'll have the frame of the ship.
Once you have the frame, the next thing to do is to start
placing planking on the outside of it. Use relatively small
pieces to do this, and don't worry about making them fit
exactly since you'll eventually sand them smooth. Once all of
the planking is in place, sand out the rough parts and joints,
and you'll have your scratch hull.
Two words of warning. First, when you're at the point of
attaching the bulkheads to the keel, it'll be very delicate.
But if you break off one of the bulkheads, just glue it back.
Second, make sure that you allow for the width on material
you're using. I use .06" plastic for my hulls, so when I
measure out a bulkhead, I've got my calculator programmed to
automatically subtract .12" from the overall calculation.
<REDBOZO6>
***I can't say which works best, but a long time ship modeller
locally builds his hulls from 1/2" basswood planks. The planks
are first cut to shape to match the widest part of the hull
section, and once all of the layers are glued together the hull
is sanded to shape by removing the "steps" in the planks. He
notes you have to be quite careful not to create convex/concave
surfaces doing this...
***Since many modern ships have a relatively square cross-
section for much of their length, a combination of bread-and-
butter for the ends and planked bulkheads for the center work
relatively well. When I've done this, I start with a plank
cut to the shape of the lowest waterline. The severely curved
ends are build up as bread-and-butter sub-assemblies. The
"central" portion of each is rabbeted for the ends of the
planks. These ends are fastened to the bottom plank. The
intermediate stations are drawn onto plywood, allowing for the
thickness of the planking (I don't use a central "backbone",
although I have seen others use a "box-beam" here - that's
simply a long plywood box that the bulkheads slid onto -- very
rigid and torsion-resistant!).
Also allow for a thick strip at the sheer (and, if the curving
of the bilge is extensive, I also allow for a block there).
The bulkheads are glued to the bottom plank in the appropriate
locations, and the shear strip (and bilge blocks, if used)
are installed. Planking the remainder is now easy, as the planks
will all be relatively straight. <John O. Kopf>
10) How do I bend wood for a ship model?
A: The best method to use depends upon the dimensions of the stock,
and on the degree of bending required. In general, wood
*should* be pre-bent; if it is simply "wrapped" onto the model
the resulting tension can easily tear the model apart after a
few years. Instead, use one the methods listed below to pre-
shape the wood; fasten it after it has "set" and holds the
shape by itself.
First of all, you'll have better luck if you chose your stock
so that the grain runs lengthwise (I've frequently found
commercial strips to be severly cross-grained at some point,
perhaps with the grain running as much as 45 degrees to the
length -- this is often because the strip was cut from a board
near a knot).
A thick or complicated shape may be easiest to form by carving
it from the solid -- perhaps laminating the solid from a number
of pieces so the grain tends to follow the final curve (I use
this technique for sailing ship head-rails, which can be a half-
circle in some cases).
You can also laminate a piece from a number of thinner pieces
bent to a former -- the thinner the individual wood pieces, the
easier they are to bend, an the necesary thickness is achieved
by gluing these side-to-side over a form...the result will hold
it's shape when it's removed from the form. (This method is
frequently used to make "mast hoops" by wrapping a glue-coated
plane-shaving around a waxed dowel and then slicing off the
hoops when it has dried.)
Wood can also be bent more easily if it is wet or hot or both.
Simply soaking a strip in water will make it more pliable. If
you then bend it to shape, and let it dry out it will "spring"
back only a small amount. Hot water works better than cold.
Wood is a "plastic" material, and thus can be deformed under
heat or as a result of chemical softening.
Many people use household ammonia for this purpose (instead of
soaking in water) -- if you can bear the smell. It may also
discolor some woods.
You can also hold the strip over a kettle and steam it. The
trouble with this is that thin strips cool off so fast that
you'll end up working with cold, wet wood by the time you get
it in place.
For reasonably thick work, such as deck beams, I've had some
success either wrapping the stock in wet rags, or floating it
in a dish of water, and then microwaving it for about a minute.
It's relatively easy to wrap planks around a hull. it's much
harder to bend them sideways (i.e., give them an "edge-set").
For some places where I need a plank bent edge-wise (e.g.,
railings), I find it easier to take a WIDE piece of stock whose
thickness is the final width, and bend this piece to shape. I
then saw curved planks from the edge.
Do not use these methods on multi-layer board (e.g., plywood).
Water soaks the glue and causes the board to warp or split.
The best way to bend boards is to score the "inside" curve and
build a jig.
You can also get a good job with the plank-forming pliers and
bending jig from Micro-Mark. Jig is adjustable. Using a plank
bender without heating or soaking the wood will likely just
fracture the wood.
(This includes suggestions from: Chris Maxfield, Clayton A.
Feldman, Rich Gortatowsky, Ron Ginger, Trevor Farrell,
PKAeronaut, Jack Silvia, and Keath Wong.)
MORE---
***In bending planks, I use an old soldering iron I got over
twenty years ago.
It no longer has a label, so I don't know what the wattage is,
but the barrel that holds the nib is about 3/4 of an inch in
diameter and the nib is about 1/2 inch, and I suspect it runs
about 40 watts. I think it might have been used for automotive
body work, but don't know for sure. Scrounge the yard sales
and flea markets...
I find it works better than a plank bender, because a plank
bender, at least the ones I've seen, works the arc in the plank
while holding the plane of the width of the plank constant.
This gives you a nice curve for a plank that would lie on the
hull all in a horizontal plane, but hull planks usually sweep
up in addition to curving toward the bow and stern. With the
soldering iron, I can form both curves at the same time.
Here's the steps I go through:
1 - Cut the bow and stern taper in 4 planks, leaving them about
4 inches (2 on each end) longer than they need to be on the
hull. You use the extra to give you something to hold onto
while you bend them and install them. Cut them in pairs, one
for each side of the hull.
2 - Float them in a soaking tray, (a piece of 4" or 6" pvc
capped on both ends, then cut longitudinally in half works
well for this) for about a half hour. Flip the planks over
and soak for about 15 minutes more. Pay attention to which
planks form a pair. Plain, warm water works fine. For some
woods adding ammonia helps, for others it makes them more
brittle.
3 - While you're waiting, cut two more planks and set them
aside, clamp the soldering iron in a bench vice (by the handle)
so its sticking straight up, and plug it in to heat.
4 - Work the flat of a plank against the side of the nib holder
of the soldering iron, stretching it and pulling it into shape.
For one side of the hull, use the side of the iron opposite to
you and pull the bend toward you and up, for the other, use the
side nearest you and work the bend away from you and up.
Remember that the bends need to be mirror images of one
another. Work fairly quickly, and pay attention to how dry
the wood is getting. If it dries out completely, it will
discolor or burn. Feel free to dunk it into the water if it
does begin to dry out too much. What you're doing is making
steam that penetrates the wood, pulling it into shape, and
cooking the water back out again.
5 - Once you have it close to shape, you can install it on
the hull.
6 - Between installing the first and second planks, put two
more into the soaking tray, and cut two more and set them
aside. Installing two planks, while two planks are new in
the soak tray, seems to work well relative to the timing of
the soak. Just keep track of which are new. You should
have 4 in the tray all the time you're working.
7 - I've been using a cryo based glue (Krazy glue, wood &
leather) as my working glue, and it doesn't seem to care if
there is still a little moisture in the wood. A day later, I
reinforce the joints between the bulkheads and planks with
carpenters (elmer's yellow) for as many strakes as I can reach
before the sides meet the deck. I've got two hulls I did
in 1986 that don't show any signs of separating, even at the
strakes that are held only by cryo, but who knows how they'll
look 100 years from now. I also 'nail' my hulls though, so
that may also be helping to hold them together.
8 - Keep repeating the process from step 4 until you get bored
or tired. Then call it quits. When you do, clamp the keel
into a keel clamp to make sure it doesn't bend while the wood
finishes drying.
Note: The important message here is work one plank on each
side of the hull at a time, even if you're doing the second
layer of a double planked hull. Once the planks are fastened
to the bulkheads or inner hull, their environment is different
from wherever you were storing them. They change shape and
try to straighten back out. Wood is an imperfect medium, so
you can't control the shape change. Working port, then
starboard, with the help of a keel clamp, tends to average
the stresses out by the time you reach the gunnels. You can
hide a slightly bent keel, when the distortion is side to side,
when you mount the model, but if you hog the hull, there's no
way to hide it.
Note 2 (for beginners): A keel clamp is fairly easy to make.
Get some oak flooring, 2" wide and longer then your hull
length, and drill holes about 1/2 of an inch from one edge, so
you can put 1/4-20 bolts through and clamp the boards together.
Slip your keel in along the oposite edge, between the oak
boards. Tighten the nuts down and let it sit overnight. If
you want to get fancy, and have a much easier time rigging,
you can rig a stand to one side of the clamp so you can hold
the finished hull in a bench vice while you're doing the deck
houses and rigging.
11) I am building a solid hull ship; the kit comes with paper
cut-out templates to check the hull shape.
Will these paper templates suffice to check out the shape or
is it intended that one should use the templates to cut out
balsa templates?
A: Typically, the paper templates are too flimsy to use to
accurately verify the shape of the hull. It is better to copy
their pattern to a stiffer cardboard or poster board. You can
also use these patterns to make a stand to keep your model in
while you work on it, and also to make a nice permanent stand
for the finished model.
Ideally, getting a copy of the original ships plans, and
creating patterns from the ships lines is the best. Many people
abandon the solid hull that came with the kit, and create their
own plank-on-frame/plank-on-bulkhead hull (deviating from the
kit in an attempt to create a more accurate/appealing model is
quite a common practice among ship modelers). <Monica Chaban>
***I usually mount paper templates on some sort of card stock,
adding stripwood as needed to stiffen the body. <Kurt (Seaphoto)>
***IMHO stiff white cardboard has the minimal stiffness and
durability for hull templates. Mattboard found in art supply
shops for matting pictures would be ideal.
You would, for example, fix the printed template patterns to
the mattboard with rubber cement (not water-based glue) and
cut as close to the line as you dare with a fine fretsaw or
power jigsaw, then clean it up with sandpaper to the line.
Some hull section diagrams are printed in such a way that you
might need the additional step of tracing them with high
quality tracing paper (also from your art supply shop) and
then cementing the traced pattern onto cardboard. <Septimus>
***...good quality card (file folder stock, etc.) stock (or
thin sheet styrene, or even metal, such as stock from aluminum
soda cans), and trim that to shape.
A good idea is to block up the hull so the waterline *or* keel
is level, and then cut a "tab" on the pattern so it can sit
using the table as a reference plane...that's more work, but
it's also more accurate than trying to fit the pattern to the
hull at the keel and shear line only. <John Kopf>
***Even better for templates is 1/64" thick aircraft ply. The
rubber cement and cut-pout process is just as described above.
It's very durable. <Clay Feldman>
***Regardless, Use something with a bit more stiffness than
paper. Even 'shirt cardboard' works. The pointer about adding
'tabs' which would permit setting all to a horizontal waterline
is very useful. Try to keep the working edge of the template
as thin as possible while retaining the necessary rigidity.
<RAIcorn824>
***...The plywood works great as it is strong and stiff. The
balsa has a tendancy to be soft when pressed against the hull
to check on dimensions. <David Loseke>
***If you're transferring the pattern to thim aircraft plywood,
make a Xerox, lay it face down on the wood and wipe the back
with gasoline or another serious thinner in a rag. (Don't
smoke while you're doing this.) The right amount of soaking
and pressure will transfer the Xerox powder to the wood. <Burl
Burlingame>
***don't use gasoline for anything except motor fuel. A
friend of my sons was burned to death while cleaning dirt bike
parts in a can of gasoline. The spark that ignited the vapor
was over 20 feet away.
A safer method is to heat transfer it. Place the paper on the
wood, with the toner against the wood and iron it with a normal
clothes iron, set to a high temp. Hold the iron on for a few
seconds, then peel the paper off.
Sometimes this will cause the wood to develop a curve - if you
heat only one side of it, so also iron the back side of the
wood and it will flatten out.
There are special toners made to transfer eaisly, but the
standard stuff of a copy machine or laser printer works fine.
<Ron Ginger>
***Actually, ball-point pen works well too...put your drawing
ink-side down onto the wood and iron the ink into it.
<John O. Kopf>
12) I'm a little mystified by the process of cutting the bevel(s)
on a bulkhead or frame of a wooden ship model?
A: Good plans will have three views -- the "plan" (top view),
profile (side), and "section" (slices through the hull
perpendicular to the other two).
From the section view, trace the horizontal and vertical lines
that correspond to the water- and "buttock" lines.
On the plan and profile views, draw a pair of lines that
correspond to the front and back edge of the bulkhead or frame.
Using dividers, transfer each intersection between the drawn
lines and the water lines and buttock lines to the drawing;
fair these up with a smooth curve. You'll now have a single
drawing of the bulkhead showing BOTH the front and back edges.
Glue this to the wood, and saw to the outside line. Now bevel
from the back (*outside*) to the front at the *inner* line --
the bevels are now complete, and it can be put into place.
<John O. Kopf>
***Yes, several methods are available.. First, obtain a copy
of Underhill's book "Plank on Frame Models", volume 1.
Second, get / buy / make about a dozen 'battens' approximately
10% or even 15% longer than the hull oength. Take the first
batten (actually a pair) tack one end to the stem and the other
to the stern, "wherever it fits", providing the midships
section was parallel to your datum line. Take note of the
difference in contact with the 'frame' (actually bulkhead).
Now divide the spaces and insert additional battens. In a very
short time, you will see a pattern developing - the side of the
frame closest to the maximum hull dimension will show maximum
contact with the batten, and there will be a gap fore or aft.
At this point you have a couple of choices: shave down the high
spots on the bulkheads or build up the low spots. (Either will
be a compromise!) What you are shooting for is a batten (or
fairing strip, or whatever you choose to call it) making *solid
contact* along the 'face' of each bulkhead the entire length of
the vessel. In any case, with the exception of the 'dead flat'
(read more about lofting if the term is unknown), the edge
surfaces of the bulkheads should never be parallel to the
longitudinal axis of the vessel (unless you are building a coal
or garbage barge). Repeating myself, but Underhill's book
provides probably the most lucid description ever written for
modellers on how to cope with the thickness of frames/bulkheads.
<RAIcorn824>
13) How do you drill the mast holes in a solid-hull ship model?
A: There are several ways you can try.
For the mast holes, you could jig up the hull so it's
perpendicular side-wise and inclined to the mast angle, and
drill the holes using drill-press (assuming you have access to
one).
A second possibility is to recognize that a drill will tend to
follow a smaller hole, and a small hole is easier to drill and
align -- make one template with short "legs" that will sit on
the deck and has a center-line drawn on it; make a second
"triangle" for the angle between the mast and the deck (NOT the
base). Use these to drill the "Pilot hole" for the mast, and
then drill it out to size using successively larger drills.
A third possibility recognizes that the real ship did not have a
"tight" hole for the mast to go through - they made the hole
over-size and then used wedges between the sides of the hole and
the mast to move the mast into position. You can do the same
thing by drilling a small hole and making a "stub peg" on the
bottom of the mast, and then enlarging the upper portion of the
hole so that the mast is a "rattling" fit to it. The peg will
then locate the bottom of the mast, and wedges can be used to
bring the mast - at the deck level - to the correct position.
The "mast coat" will hide these. The bowsprite is a different
problem. Much depends on whether the bowsprite heel is "buried"
in the hull, or rests on the deck. If the latter, simply drill
a small hole and enlarge it with a rat-tail file. If the
former, you might want to consider either drilling a series of
increasingly larger holes as in method 2 for the mast, or making
the final hole undersize, and then trimming the heel of the
bowsprit to fit.
DETAILS
=======
14) Should models be painted or left natural wood?
A: Indeed, it is an artistic decision that must be made by the
builder. In the same category is whether to paint brass parts.
Very, very few parts on a real ship were brass (bronze, maybe,
but not brass). So, one thing to consider would be consistancy.
Not painting because of the beauty of the construction material
may say no paint on either wood or brass parts.
This is one advantage of building older ships. Many older
merchant ships, and warships earlier than mid seventeenth
century were painted only in a few areas, oiled on top, and
various tallow mixtures applied below the waterline (that stuff
is really ugly if scale!). A similar "artistic choice" is how
to depict rigging. Many modelers do not add sails for two
reasons. One, it is hard to make good sails, second, some feel
the sails hide some of the detail. Yet, the running rigging
adds much detail to ship. So, many people display (particularly
on warships) model with yards raised and much running rigging
displayed, but no sails. Actually, there may have been times
when this was done for a review or special ceremony, but was not
normal. <Don Stauffer>
15) I'm looking for a source of sheet copper about .001 or .002 to
plate the hull a ship model?
A: Call up your local auto parts store (NOT the fuzzy dice dealer
chains) and get a price on shim stock. You should be able to
find it in just about any thickness you want, but it won't be
cheap (sheet copper never is). <mailto:cali...@crl.com>
***Another possibility: Bare Metal Foil - has added copper to
their line of adhesive backed foils. These foils are amazingly
thin - you'll have to have the plastic/wood as smooth as you
want the metal surface to be, but its probably a lot easier to
work than even .001 shim stock. Look for ads for Bare Metal in
your favorite hobby mag. <Don Schmidt>
***Ask your dealer to order you a sheet of Bare-Metal Foil,
Co.'s Copper Foil. It measures 6"x12" and works WONDERFULLY for
coating the hull. (I recommend ordering one sheet (which runs
$6-$8) so that you can try it before you go all the way.) It
usually takes 3 to 4 sheets to cover the entire bottom.
However, I put it on my U.S.S. Constitution and it make all the
difference in the world. It is "wafer" thin, so all of the
surface details on the plastic show up.
BTW, if your supplier can't order it, and you can't get it
through mail order, their address is:
Bare Metal Foil, Co.
P.O. Box 82
Farmington, MI 48332
<William Blakely>
***I've used copper sheathing tape, which is extremely thin and
comes in 1/4 and 5/16 inch widths. If you can't find it, Model
Expo sells it in 15 ft. coils for about $5. Works fine.
<William Nichols>
***Stores that deal in stained glass supplies carry a copper
foil tape in various widths and thicknesses. Already has
adhesive, so just cut to length, peel off the backing, and
apply. <John O. Kopf>
John Kopf
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 January 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 4) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part I of the FAQ.
###############################################
28) Why do <your choice> cost so much?
A: This is an interesting question, for it illustrates the trade
offs inherent when your modeling efforts become a business. I
have had some limited exposure with this (I have done some
pattern work for The Scale Shipyard in the past) - and the time
spent on a master is extrordinary. For the last 3 nights I
have been working on a 1/16" 5" twin gun mount. When it is
finished I will have about 9 hours into the pattern. Will it
be perfect? No, I am leaving off some detail that would be
tedious and even more time consuming to put on (rivets, etc)
simplifying other detail (hinges for doors) and only indicate
where other detail goes if the modeler cares to add it (grab
rails). Why? There is a couple of curves here. One is that
adding complexity to a part shortens mold life when dealing
with RTV rubber. Little pieces degrade over time, and it does
not take long for the mold to be useless. My time to build
masters is limited, and the law of diminishing returns applies
here. Lastly, economics plays a part - there is a finite
amount that most modelers will pay for a certain part.
(The really sad thing is when someone puts hours into making
a part, and a modeler buys one and copies it for his models,
or worse, for his friends. It is only through multiple unit
sales that companies can hope to realize a profit - thus keep
is business - thus produce new stuff. I have been told by
several small casting companies how frustrating it is when a
modeler orders, essentially, one of everything, and then is
never heard from again.)
I hope that the Enterprise kit does well. Chances are even
at that price level he is not planning to retire soon on the
profits. 8-) It remains to be seen what the demand for such
a kit will be. Ultimately modelers have control over the
quality of kits coming out. By supporting ambitious projects
such as this you assure more will follow. If they do not do
well then we must settle for less detailed, simpler kits at a
lesser price.
Aside from the fact that I believe it just about impossible
to 'rip off' someone in the course of a hobby - after all, it
is not a neccesity, just a pastime, and if prices go too high
you can choose another - you have a very simple alternative;
scratchbuild.
When making a pattern I start with a chunk of acrylic, shape
it with metal working machines, finish it with wood working
machines and hand tools to a 2000 grit finish, detail the part
using a combination of brass and plastic pieces, individually
made, and then ship it to the manufacuturer for production. If
you feel that the finished item is worth it, then purchase it.
If you think prices are too high, then make the items yourself
and then market them at a lesser price - that too is what the
free market is all about. <Kurt (SeaPhoto) >
****Not to mention the most overlooked fact of all: If a
modeler really wants to build a $1000 ship kit, rather than just
"acquire" it, the number of dollars per hour of entertainment
is probably cheaper than renting a movie on video. A kit of
this magnitude would likely take at least 500 hours to
complete to a reasonable standard, probably more. That seems
to be pretty cheap fun if you ask me. <Hawk137>
***The price of the kit is not an issue. Most of BWN's
products are out of my range, so my only experience is seeing
them at displays of BWN and other vendors at shows. If the
market will support the costs of BWN's products, then so be it.
Hopefully, the escalating costs of unique ships is not a
trend, but if it is, then all of us must be doing quite well.
I understand that R&D, as well as labor and production, are
expensive propositions in today's market, and a business has
the right to make a profit.
As to the assertion that "everyone wants something for
nothing", this is not true, IMHO. Modelers want high quality
kits at fair and reasonable prices. Some may consider $950 a
fair and reasonable price, and others may not, but this
determination is in the opinion of the modeler, and not the
producer. The criticism of the price should have been
expected, and a reasonable response should have been formed
long before all of this transpired. All of this is in the
past though, and hindsight is 20/20, so I agree with the main
point of RBartolacc in that we should all get back to the
hobby. <REDBOZO6>
***'Twould be great to have more kits available of ships,
boats, and other things that make their way upon the oceans!
Blue Water is OK (no offense intended) but maybe too expensive
for many of us. As I've posted before, I have reached the
point where I absolutely refuse to purchase Japanese (Tamiya,
Fujimi, Hasegawa, Aokii, SkyWave, etc., kits because of
comments I've read about 'charging as much as the market will
bear.'
What *is* the cost of having injection mold masters made?
After all, for any model, someone along the way has to make a
master (or steal parts!). Perhaps. if we as ship modelers want
access to new kits, maybe this is the time to get together and
develop and market our own - at cost or close to it! We want
the models, and I'm sure we can generate a list of preferences
quickly. Let's get some sort of list generated, talk among
ourselves, make the masters, and do it!
things to consider:
Scales: 1:700. 1:350. 1:192 (or 1:200), etc.
Mixed media; resin + aftermarket details; injected moldings;
wood with plastic/pewter/Britannia details, etc.
Most of us tend to model warships. I would personally like to
have access to a *good* Liberty or Victory or T2 or even C1 in
1:350. Other 'wants' include vessels from the transition
(U.S.Navy) from sail to steam, particularly 1865-1905 period.
We're not a big market, face it! Possibly, if we cooperate,
we can do one heck of a lot more for each other than any *major*
kit manufacturer would ever attempt. Any Ideas? <RAIcorn824>
29) Where can I get 1/72 scale coast guard decals? I'm building an
hh-60.
A: Superscale #109 carries US Coast Guard markings for the HC-130,
HU-16 and HH-3F. You may be able to adapt these markings for
the HH-60 (if it's not the most recent paint scheme you're
looking for). <Abe Lynn>
***A generic set of Coast Guard markings are available on
Super Scale sheet No. 72-109. Hope this helps.
<mailto:pbo...@kalmbach.com>
30) Am modeling a Fletcher (Revell 1/305) and was wondering if
anyone could offer some up to date colors, FS numbers, etc.?
A: Floquil has come out with a series of WWII marine paints that
match USN colors:
a. Navy Blue 5-N - (Floquil) 818598 \
b. Ocean Gray 5-O - 818596 |
c. Weather Deck Blue 20-B 818600 |
d. Haze Grey 5-H 818594 | - these are the Floquil
e. Deck House Blue 818704 | part nos.
f. Pale Blue 5-P 818590 |
g. Light Grey 5-L 818592 /
Tom Walkowiak runs The Floating Drydock, a model
shop/reference house (?). He has a vast library of photos of
USN vessels, and can provide 8" x 10" glossies for given hull
numbers and time periods. He also sells U.S. Navy Camouflage
& Markings for $7.99, which lists all the camouflage patterns
used by the USN during WWII. His address is:
The Floating Drydock
c/o General Delivery
Kresgeville, PA 18333
I have his U.S. Navy Camouflage & Markings book. The book is
a fair compendium of everything one would wish to know about
U.S. Navy Camouflage & Markings in WW II. However, if your
worried about ABSOLUTE ACCURACY, you need to determine which of
the hundreds of Fletchers you'll be doing - the camouflage
patterns vary. In fact, The Floating Drydock also sells (for
a few bucks, I think) a list of most USN WWII vessels with the
camouflage measures that each had during the war. The Floating
Drydock sells camouflage sheets for most measures and ship
classes. <Rob Robinson>
***I have both, along with their color chipset. The C&M book
is very useful for things you don't think about until you get
there like the horizontal colors, both decks and undersides of
whatever. Highly recommended, and I only wish there was
something like it for other navies.
BTW, the list of USN vessels/measures is only for those in
measures 31/32/33, not 21 or 22. And they don't mention the
time period. Since ships seemed to change colors like new
dresses, ...
Per the aforementioned "USN Camouflage 1 of the WW2 Era" from
Floating Drydock:
- "After [1946-47] almost all vessels adopted Measure 13,
solid haze gray (5-H) as peacetime paint", until the next set
of regulations came out.
- After March 1953, use either Measure 27 (same as 13, above)
or 17 (also known as 14) which uses Ocean Grey vice Haze Grey.
For both these measures, "all steel decks and all other
horizontal steel surfaces exposed to aerial observation shall
be painted either smooth dark gray deck type A or non-skid
dark gray deck type B. All overheads and the undersides of
all other external horizontal surfaces shall be painted glossy
or base white".
In other words, just like a modern ship, except for details of
the color shades and masting. <Allan "battleships!" Plumb>
***Try Alan Raven's "Fletcher-Class Destroyers", available from
the Naval Institute. There're four different camo schemes
sketched, which show Port and starboard views, deck views, and
sections showing mount & superstructure faces.
<mailto:00jeg...@bsuvc.bsu.edu>
***BTW, new and very excellent reference volume on
Gearing/Sumner class DD's just publiched by USNI. Author is Bob
Sumrall, one of the curators at the USNA Museum. Expensive
book, but Nothing Else Even Comes Close!!! Lots of excellent
photos, drawings, including color renditions. My Dad (departed
now nearly 30 years) was Propulsion Systems Engineer for
members of the class built by consolidated - I have lots of
original white-lines on the ships. Sumrall's book is as good
as, if not better, than having *all* the original documentation,
because he goes into as-built, as-employed details. <RAIcorn824>
***Two good refs: Flush Decks & Four Pipes (a classic, now in
2nd edition, and probably available from USNI, Annapolis, MD)
and "The Destroyer Campbeltown", by Al Ross, one of the
"Anatomy of the Ship" series from Conway Maritime Press /
United States Naval Institute (depends on which continent you
call home). <RAIcorn824>
31) How do I make small, inexpensive cast plastic fittings?
A: How easy it is depends on what shape you want to cast. If the
object is flat on one side (e.g., water-tight doors), or can be
made as a set of components that are flat and assembled later,
it's fairly easy.
The MAJOR expense is the cost of a can of RTV (Room Temperature
Vulcanizing) rubber...get the smallest can you can find. Your
local hobby shop may have it, or can order it for you. Price
this out FIRST -- then decide if you want to continue!
There are a number of ways to do this; I'll describe one that
I've used. I needed to make up a set of 8 steam cargo winches
for a WWI vintage freighter. Each was essentially a rectangular
frame with various "bits" sticking out here and there.
I decided to break the pattern into 10 parts: base, 2 sides, 2
"cranks", 2 cams, 1 spool, 1 "head" and a gear; these would be
assembled using brass rod.
The base was a 1/2 x 5/8 rectangle of .015 styrene, this had
two 3/16 x 3/16 x 1/16 blocks of styrene for steam boxes glued
on, and some of the steam piping.
The two sides (mirror images of one another) were .015 styrene,
properly shaped. A round boss was added as well as a flange
around the top and side, and a steam cylinder (a turned spool
bedded into a carrier, both from lucite). Also, more steam
piping.
The cranks and cams were 3/16 slices off a lucite rod; the
cranks had a couple of notches filed into the edge to become
"T" shaped.
The spool was turned from 1/4 lucite; it had a slice of a 1/4
10-tooth plastic pinion gear salvaged from a slot car.
The head was turned from wood, 3/16 d x 3/16 long.
The gear was a slice of another, 8-tooth pinion.
NONE of these pieces had severe undercuts!
All necesary holes were located, and either drilled through
(on the thin stuff) or at least "dimpled" to locate for later
drilling.
I next took a piece of scrap plate glass (about 3" x 4" -- I
had a lot of that left over after the last earthquake), and
CA'ed the back of all the parts to it in a reasonably close
pattern.
I made a "fence" from cardboard -- just a box without top or
bottom; approximately 1 1/4 x 2 3/4 x 1/2 high. This was
temporarily taped to the glass surrounding the patterns.
I smeared the inside of the box, the glass, and the patterns
with vasoline thinned with a bit of lighter fluid as a release
agent.
Mix up a small amount of the RTV; try not to get any bubbles in
it. Vibration helps -- try one of the Dremel engravers, or a
jig saw -- anything that will vibrate and shake out the bubbles.
Paint a thin coat of the RTV over the patterns...the thinner
the better to avoid bubbles. Do it again. After a couple of
coats, pour the rest of the RTV into the box level with the
top, and let it set up.
Pry the now-solid rubber block off...that's your mould. The
"top" of the mould should be nice and flat (from the glass),
with the "prints" from the patterns as cavities in the surface.
I used 5-minute Epoxy for the castings.
Again paint the rubber with the vasoline mould release, mix up
a small batch of epoxy (post'em note pads make a wonderful
disposable palette for this) and fill all the cavities. Since
it is clear, you can see bubbles and poke them with a toothpick
or pin. Use an old razor blade to level the top of the epoxy
(that will be the back of the individual castings). Once the
epoxy on the palette is hard, you can remove the castings from
the mould. Being rubber, you can flex it to help get the parts
out.
Warning...the epoxy does tend to stick slightly to the mould.
if there is a bubble in the rubber adjacent to this, the rubber
will tear there and leave the bubble exposed. The next casting
you make from the mould will have tiny "beads" at this sites,
as your casting cavity includes the bubbles which WILL fill
with epoxy. A few of these can be sliced off the parts, but
eventually the mould will become unusable.
How long that takes depends on how much care you took to avoid
having bubbles in the rubber. <John Kopf>
*NEW* ***There are two main mold materials that have very different
applications. RTV mold material is great, you can make undercut
molds. But, it is expensive and has limited shelf life. Other
is plaster of paris. Cheap, but parts must have relief angle,
absolutely NO undercuts or straight sides. Limited shelf life
also, but at price this is not a problem.
I tried to do a zero relief cast of a hubcap that had a short,
straight cylinder. Got the mold off the part okay. Then, put
LOTS of release agent in mold. Still, cannot get resin part
out of mold. Resin castings do NOT SHRINK!
For metal parts, you may be able to get away with straight side
sections in simple parts, as metal does shrink a bit.
But basically, we have the dilemma of an excellent material
(RTV) that is expensive, or a cheap material that limits the
type of parts you can cast. <Don Stauffer>
*NEW* ***Other methods of mold-making and casting include the quick
and expediant method of modeling clay (oil clay) and superglue.
If you need a duplicate of an existing part that isn't too
large or complicated, it can be made of cyanoacrylate(sp?). Get
some modeling clay (the greyish sometimes oily stuff that never
hardens), work it up untill its fairly plyable, then simply
press the part to be duplicated into it to make a simple
negative impression. You might need to try it a few times to
get a clean and clear impression. Then, drip in a bit of CA
glue over the whole surface and then a bit of filler
(microbeads, or for both filler and quick setting, baking soda,
which flash cures the CA). A few more layers of CA and filler
will build up the object to the desired thickness. However, it
works best if you don't rush the process with very thick
layers, as they will be very slow to cure, even with soda or
accellerator. Then, pull the clay away from the object, and
with a bit of paint thinner clean off any clay that is still
sticking to the object and there you go.
<Bev Clark/Steve Gallacci>
32) A friend of mine told me that CA glues (superglues, Zap-A-Gap,
etc.) will severely weaken their bonds over time and may
eventually turn to white powder. Can anyone out there confirm
or deny the above statement?
A. I remember a similar scare back in 1968 when I was getting back
into models after college - Krazy Glue hadn't appeared on the
market yet. A local hobby shop was importing the first CA we'd
seen from Japan (Pearl Chemical). The rumor started that it
would only last a year, so many of us went back to epoxies etc.
The rumor was finally discredited and we returned to CA. I used
it mostly on metal military miniatures and plastic armour all
of which were completely painted - and they are still in one
piece. I've known it to fail if you put it on too thick or on
an unprepared dirty surface as and put alot of stress on the
fix. I've also tried to open a tight joint with acetone solvent
with limited success. The stuff does seem to last. It would be
interesting to get a chemists opinion. <V.L. Kraut>
***Regarding CYA's. I am a coatings chemist that uses CYA's
frequently. Couple of points to remember about CYA's is that
they are soluble in many organic solvents (acetone, methanol)
and WATER. Also, if the glue is cured to quickly (by using too
much "accelerator") the heat generated will cause the glue to
foam and reduce its strength. I have had CYA joints exposed
to methanol glow fuels fail, but i have never seen the glues I
have used degrade over time. However, it is very possible that
years of high humidity, sunlight, or solvent exposure could
destroy CYA. <Dave Seuferling>
***I've got two ship models, wood, plank on bulkhead, that I
put together in the winter of 1982-83. I used regular Crazy
Glue on both and reinforced the joints between the bulkheads
and strakes with white glue. All the rest of the glue joints
were strictly Crazy Glue. No joints have separated so far, and
neither of the models are in a glass case, so they are exposed
to whatever the ambient room conditions are. I used the same
glue on a double planked hull, still far from finished, and on
outer layerstrake has separated at the bow (no big deal to fix
it).
Two out of three of the above hulls have extreme compound
curves at both bow and stern, so the joints had to have been
under some stress, even though I hot bent them during
construction.
I have a fouth that I started in 84 and am still working on
that I used Crazy Glue - wood and leather on. The hull is
fully nailed (2000+ nails), so even if the glue lets go, I
don't think the planks are going anywhere. This version of
Crazy Glue turned out to be a lot better to work with than
the original. It's a bit thicker, so its more forgiving about
slight gaps or irregularities in the joints, takes a bit longer
to set up so tricky pieces can be coaxed into place a bit
easier than the "instant"bond of the original allowed.
Even if you don't want to use it as a construction glue, one
place this stuff really shines is in threading small blocks
when you're doing the rigging and setting the knots and
fastenings to belaying pins and cleats. A bit of glue on the
end of a piece of string firms it up so it becomes its own
needle. A long diagonal cut through the glued string creates a
very fine point, and passing the string through the tiny hole
in a block is no problem at all. Rat lines and other knotted
crossings of lines stay put if you dab a bit of glue on them,
and if you use the original formula for this purpose, it
disappears completely into the thread. The W&L formula
sometime stays visible if you use too much.
Be aware that some shops that sell models don't accept cryo
based glues though, so if you're building to market, check with
the shop before you spend a lot of time building a boat they
won't want. <Jack Silvia>
***One thing I have noticed is that alot of people are claiming
to have built models of various types using CA adhesives that
are 20 years old and aren't falling apart.
One thing that HAS become more prevalent in the use of CA
Adhesives is the use of "accelerators" and "ZIP Kickers" with
the slower curing varieties of CA. This can produce quite
different results than the traditional methods of using CA.
The availability of accelerators has also allowed people to use
CA as a filler as well as an adhesive.
Problems can occur when an accelerator is used on a thick
application of CA. The accelerator can instantly cure the
SURFACE of the application, but the center stays liquid, and
MAY not be able to cure properly if the surface hardening
completely seals the center off from air. This results in a
soft core that may never fully cure, and is not structurally
sound as an adhesive.
I ran into this when I used CA to fill all of the windows in a
Heller 1/72 Constellation in order to convert it to a C/EC-121.
Some of the windows fills retained a "bubble" of uncured CA.
It is better to do this type of operation in multiple thin
applications, than trying to do it in one thicker one and use
accelerator!
I wonder how many CA problems are related to the one I had!
Hopefully, we all learn from our mistakes. <Steve Kennedy>
***I've recently had a very strange experience with them that
has me baffled, and I'd like to learn how to not repeat it....
A couple of days ago, I was coating the interiors of cardboard
model rocket tubes with CA in order to strengthen them. I was
using a store brand (I can give you the manufacturer if you
need it) that was a couple of months old. At first I was using
medium, but then I ran out and switched to thick. My finger
was covered with the stuff, and a bit after I switched to the
thick, I started feeling a sharp pain in that finger. I thought
it would go away, but it just getting stronger and stronger --
it started feeling like my finger was on fire.
I put my finger under water, which seemed to help. But a few
minutes after I would take my finger out of the water, the heat
would start coming back. The glue was too thick to wash off,
and not set enough to peel off, so my husband tried cleaning it
off with paint thinner. That hurt too much, so he got some
debonder, and eventually we got it all off, put some burn
medicine on, and wrapped my finger in a bandage. Everything
was fine after that....
I know it wasn't an allergic reaction because my husband got
some on his finger while he was cleaning me up, and he started
burning too. I also know that CA generates heat when it cures
-- but my husband didn't have that much on his finger.... So,
I was curious if you might have any ideas on what caused it to
burn so much? Do you think it might have been mixing the
medium and thick (both from the same manufacturer)??? Could it
have been the age of the stuff??? Or could it just have been
something with the brand???? Or could it have been the fact
that I had so much on my finger????
As I said, I'd like to avoid this in the future (and warn
others about it too), but unless I know what exactly happened,
there's not much that I could do that makes sense.....
<Paul & Victoria Heisner>
***CA was developed as a way to "stitch" wounds together fast
in the field, that's why you shouldn't get it on your fingers,
and the chemical reaction involved probabely caused the burning
of your finger. In short, don't get it on your skin! <Olaf
Kievit>
***Bottom line -- Don't rely on a glue joint alone (ANY type
of glue)...PIN the pieces to gether as well (using screws,
nails, dowels, splines, etc., if at all possible.
Take care when using CA...it was originally developed as an
alternative to sutures in surgery.
However, it IS handy to have somethig set almost instantly...
I regularly use it in conjunction with other glues (white and
yellow) to tack pieces together until the "slow" glue can set
up -- instant clamps! <John Kopf>
John Kopf
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 January 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 5) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part I of the FAQ.
###############################################
33) Does anyone have any experience and/or tips on how to use slide
cover glass to make windows? I have read about using microscope
slide covers to model windows. This sounded great until I tried
to figure out how to cut the pieces to the proper shape. Every
time I try, I just end up destroying the delicate little square
of glass. <Dan Sullivan>
A. I have not specifically tried to cut slide glass but I have a
stained glass company and at times we have been called on to
repair lead light windows 1mm thin.
Use a good quality glasscutter & make sure the wheel is well
lubricated (dip into thin oil or kerosene if it is not the type
with a reservoir in the handle). You will also need a pair of
grozing pliers obtainable from any specialised glass shop.
For such thin glass make sure it is well supported, like on a
thick wad of newspaper. Glass is a solid but has the properties
of a liquid and will break irrationally if there is uneven
pressure.
Mark with a felt tip where you want to cut (can be straight or
curved). Make one even score preferably without stopping. Never
go over the score twice. Exert just enough pressure to hear a
faint scrunching sound. You are not trying to cut the glass,
just to break the surface tension.
With score facing up, hold the glass in one hand and snap off
the piece you have scored with the grozing pliers by placing the
squared off jaws parallel and close to the score. The pliers
have a right and wrong way up. Instructions are usually on the
back of the pack or ask the assistant to explain as wrong way up
will break the glass unpredictably. The movement is downward
away from the score.
score
|
hold V pliers
------------------v-------------------
|
| break
V downward
This is very hard to explain without a pen in my hand so if you
don't come right please send a fax number and I will sketch the
above. Or contact a local Tiffany or stained glass manufacturer.
You can also buy little glass saws like a miniature bandsaw but
they are pricey and we don't use them as the above method works
fine with practice. <Paul Wilson>
***Place the cover slip on a piece of glass, score lightly with
a diamond tipped pencil and break abruptly over the edge of the
glass. Usually works. Any little peninsulas can be ground off
with a small diamond or abrasive wheel in Dremel tool.
<Clayton Feldman>
***Try cutting the glass underwater. I know that this sounds
strange, but it works. The reason that glass shatters is the
breaking of the glass sets up vibrations in the glass that are
transmitted throughout the glass. These vibrations cause the
glass to shatter. If the glass is underwater, the vibrations are
damped out and the glass will not shatter. Believe it or not, I
once cut a piece of glass with a pair of sissors! The cut was
not clean, but the glass did not shatter. <Tim Philp>
***The best and easiest technique that I have seen and used
successfully is contained in an article by N. Roger Cole,
"Seaway's Ships in Scale", Vol. VI, No.1, page 15. The pattern
is drawn on a piece of scrap wood, the roughly cut coverglass is
secured to that pattern with double sided sticky tape and then
the glass is finished to final shape with a disk sander. Wear
eye protection, avoid brerathing the glass dust.
<mailto:WHann...@aol.com>
***I just use 10 thousands plastic sheet for windows. Works
great. <Ben Lankford>
***Put the glass on a very hard surface (I've used a steel
plate) and scribe with a diamond or similar point...then finish
the edges smooth on a fine carborundum paper...you'll still get
a lot of "scrappers". You'll find that, when putting them in
place, a fleck of sawdust in the frame may be enough to crack
the glass.
I now use mica instead; it's flexible, can be split to any
desired thickness, can be cut with scissors, and - being a
mineral that is already millions of years old - is unlikely to
decompose. Unfortunately, it's hard to find - check out your
local "rock-hound" shop. (Many of the admiralty models were
glazed with mica, and it's lasted hundreds of years.)
<John O. Kopf>
***Please be very careful when grinding the edges of glass with
an abrasive (diamond or carborundum) Eye protection is an
absolute must. <Peter Law>
***Thank you all for many excellent suggestions. After some
experimentation, I have found that the "scribe and break" method
works very well as long as the glass is well supported (I have
been using a steel rule as a base). I use the edge of a sharp
chisel pressed along the desired line to support the glass from
above.
Lacking either a diamond scribe or a Dremel, I resorted to
using the tip of a needle file (the hardest tool I have) to do
the scribing. With care, this makes a nice sharp line, and the
glass breaks off very cleanly.
I would never have figured this out myself; thanks again for
all of your inputs. <Dan Sullivan>
Final notes: If you build a model for display or sale, always sign it
in a hidden or at least non-obvious location. Never sell yourself
short. Log your hours building. Never charge less than 3xCurrent
minimum wage per hour plus materials. If your work is quality, it will
sell at those prices, and usually at a premium. If your work doesn't
meet standards (retail, decorative or museum) you will never sell
regularly. Document sources and techniques on everything you build for
(possible) sale or "prestigeous" display. Good Luck
-- mailto:ralco...@aol.com (RAlcorn824)
John Kopf
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 January 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 6) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part I of the FAQ.
###############################################
100) Are there any ship modeling clubs?
List last updated 13 October 1995. (Note: entries sorted by ZIP code)
(Also look in the back of Scale Ship Modeler Magazine. They have a
large listing of the more prominant ship modeling clubs in Canada and
the USA. -- contributed by mailto:dav...@cml.com)
Cape Ann Ship Modelers' Guild Massachusetts
Meetings: 2nd Monday of each month
Contact: Ed Leavitt, 26 Bass Ave., Gloucester, MA 01930
The Marine Modelers Club of New England Massachusetts
Contact: Dean Jernstrom, 838 Pond St., Franklin, MA 02038
(508) 520-0340
Jamaica Pond Modelers' Club Massachusetts
Meetings: Saturdays, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m.
Contact: Joe Perez, P. O. Box 222, Jamaica Plain, MA 02130
USS Constitution Model Shipwright Guild of New England Massachusetts
Meetings: 1st Tuesday of the Month
Contact: George Kaiser, 23 Mermaid Ave., Winthrop, Massachusetts
02152
Down East Shipmodelers Maine
Meetings: 2nd Wednesday of each month, Education Building, The
Maine Maritime Museum, Washington St., Bath, Maine
Contact: John Huff, 12 Kimberly CIrcle, Brunswick, ME 04011
207-725-4233
Connecticut Marine Model Society Connecticut
Meetings: 2nd Friday of each month at 8:00 p.m.
Contact: Maurice P. Clair, 60 Crestwood Road, Milford, CT 06460
South Orange Seaport Society New Jersey
Contact: John Gill, 5 mead St., South Orange, NJ 07079
770-1784
Philadelphia Ship Model Society Pennsylvania
Contact: Richard M. Austin, 21 Lafferty Dr., Cherry Hill, NJ 08002
Garden State Model Boaters New Jersey
Contact: Dave Kammerer, 371 Euclid Ave., Managsquam, NJ 08736
Ship Lore and Model Club New York
Meetings: 2nd Monday of each month
Contact: Norman Brouwer, South Street Seaport Museum, 207 Front
Street, New York NY 10038
The Ship Model Society of Northern New Jersey
Meetings: 4th Tuesday of each month, Millburn Public Library
Contact: Dan Pariser, 75 Livingston St. #10A, Brooklyn, NY 11201
(718) 855-1720
Model Shipcraft Guild of New York New York
Meetings: 3rd Tuesday of each month, 7:30-10:30 p.m., Battery
Park Building (next to Staten Island Ferry Slip in
Manhatten)
Contact: John Mango, 2012 60th St., Brooklyn, NY 11204
-or- George D'Elia 201-332-5631
Long Island Ship Model Society New York
Meetings: 2nd Wednesday of each Month at 8 p.m.
Contact: Hal Bosche, 90 North Ocean Avenue, Islip, NY 11751
Catskill Scale Model Shipwrights New York
Contact: Joe Callejo, 408 A Spillway Road, West Hurley, New York
12491
Buffalo Model Powerboat Club New York
Contact: Karl Kalb, 2960 Pearce Road, North Tonawanda, New York
14120 (716) 731-9717
Task Force 50 Pennsylvania
Contact: Thomas Fooler, RD #6, Box 56, York, PA 17404
(717) 792-1831
Valley Forge Ship Model Society Pennsylvania
Contact: Ernest Morris, R.D. #4, Box 82, Spring City Road,
Phoenixville, PA 19460-1848 (215) 948-8107
Washington Ship Model Society Virginia
Meetings: 2nd Tuesday of each month
Contact: Gene Larson, 9223 Presidential Drive, Alexandria, VA
22309
Hampton Roads Ship Model Society Virginia
Meetings: 20:00 hours, 2nd Friday of each month
Contact: Alan Frazer, 108-G Indian Summer Drive, Yorktown, Virginia
23693-1034
Carolina Maritime Society North Carolina
Meetings: Last Saturday of each month at 2 pm in the North Carolina
Maritime Museum
Contact: North Carolina Maritime Museum, 315 Front Street, Beaufort,
NC 28516-2125 (919) 728-7317
Jacksonville Ship Model Club Florida
Meetings: 2nd Tuesday of each month
Contact: Jacksonville Maritime Museum, 1015 Museum Drive, Unit 2,
Jacksonville, FL 32207
North Palm Beach County Model Club Florida
Contact: Dan Seaman, 119 Brookhaven Ct, Palm Beach Gardens, FL
33418 (407) 622-8358
Tampa Bay Ship Model Society Florida
Meetings: 7:00 p.m., 4th Tuesday of each month in the Bayonet Point
Community Center in Tampa, Florida.
Contact: Walker Roberts, Box 4148, Tampa, FL 33677
(813) 875-3422
Old Frigates Ship Modelers Florida
Meetings: 1st Thursday of each month
Contact: Steve Feinman (904) 873-0663 (day); (904) 237-4968 (eve.)
Suncoast Ship Model Society of Spring Hill Florida
Meetings: 7:00 pm at Week Wuchse Acres Senior Citizen Club
Contact: Ed McCarron, 2209 Glenhurst Ln., New Port Richey, FL
34653
Maritime Modelers Inc. Kentucky
Meetings: Every 2nd Thursday, Fire Fighters Building, Covington
KY 7 p.m.
Contact: Maritime Modelers Inc., 63 Linet, Highland Heights, KY
41076
Columbus Santa Maria Model Ship Builders Guild Ohio
Contact: Columbus Santa Maria Model Ship Builders Guild,
c/o Richard J. Lott, 4567 Westport Road, Apt. 3, Columbus,
OH 43228 (614) 279-3459
Society of Model Shipcrafters of Great Lakes Historical Society Ohio
Meetings: bi-monthly
Contact: Bill Halen, 4038 Ridge Rd. #4, Brooklyn, OH 44144
(216) 351-6632
The Admirals Indiana
Meetings: 2nd Thursday of each month, 6:30 pm, a Nora Public
Library, 8625 Guilford Avenue, Indianapolis, IN 46143
Contact: Earl L. Cotton (317) 888-8575
Midwest Model Shipwrights Illinois
Meetings: 3rd Wednesday of each month
Contact: The Ship Chandler, 518 E. Northwest Highway, Mt. Prospect
IL 60056
Nautical Research and Ship Model Society Illinois
Meetings: 2nd Saturday of each month
Contact: Joh Pocius, 189 Chandler, Elmhurst, IL 60126
North Shore Deadeyes Illinois
Meetings: 1st Tesday of each month
Contact: Robert Evens, 9421 Crawford Ave, Evanston, IL 60203
Gateway Model Ship Crafters Missouri
Meetings: At the Rock Road Library one Monday evening each month,
September through May.
Contact: Irwin Kuehling, 541 Beuford Dr., St. Louis, MO
63122-1413 (314) 644-3905
Ship's Company (Tulsa Ship Modeler's Society) Oklahoma
Contact: Dan Allis 1631 East 31st St., Tulsa, OK 74105-2100
(918) 747-6286
Houston Model Yacht Club Texas
Meetings: weekly; they have scale R/C regattas and race 12M and
36/600 yachts.
Contact: Commodore Ted Cooper, 1003 Country Club Dr., Houston,
TX 77469 (713) 342-1658
Rocky Mountain Shipwrights Colorado
Meetings: 2nd Saturday of each month (9:30-noon) at Castlewood
Public Library in Englewood, CO
Contact: Bruce Bollenbach, 2838 East Eleventh Ave., Denver, CO
80206 (303) 377-3314
-or- Dr. Bob Roberts (719) 481-2449
Maritime Modelers California
Contact: Maritime Modelers, 2554 Lincoln Blvd, Suite 215, Marina
Del Ray, CA 90291
Ship Modelers' Association California
Meetings: 3rd Wednesday of each month, 7 pm, Backs Community Blg.,
201 N. Bradford, Placentia, CA
Contact: Lloyd V. Warner, 2083 Reynosa Drive, Torrance, CA 90501
San Diego Ship Modelers' Guild California
Meetings: 3rd Thursday, 3:00 p.m., Bark STAR OF INDIA
Contact: Danial LePage, 1306 North Harbor Drive, San Diego, CA
92101
Ships-In-Bottles Association Of America California
Contact: Don Hubbard, P. O. Box 180550, Coronado, CA 92178-0550
Ventura County Maritime Museum Model Guld California
Meetings: 3rd Tuesday of the month at 7:00 pm
Contact: Clare Hess, VCMM Model Guild, 2731 South Victoria Ave.,
Oxnard, CA 93035
(805) 684-3673 (evenings and weekends)
South Bay Model Shipwrights California
Meetings: 3rd Friday of Each Month, at the Stamford Linear
Accelerator
Contact: Jean Eckert, 1623 Ben Roe Dr., Los Altos, California 94024
(415) 964-0561
Diablo Model Boat Club California
Contact: Barry A. Roth, DMBC, P. O. Box 30114, Walnut Creek,
California 94598
Metro Marine Modelers Ontario, Canada
Contact: Dan Sinstead, General Delivery, 18 Reid St., Bobcaygeo,
Ontario, Canada K0M 1A0
Provincial Marine 1812 Ontario, Canada
Meetings: 3rd Thursday of each month (except Jun/Jul/Aug) at:
HMCS York, 695 Lakeshore Blvd, West Toronto, Ont., Canada
Contact: Al Griffiths, 57 Thicket Rd., Etobicoke, Ontario,
Canada M9C 2C4
The Kelowna Model Boat Club British Columbia, Canada
Contact: Joh H. Harland, 448 Avery Rd., RR #4 S2C16, Kelowna
BC V1Y 7R3 (604) 764-7364
Victoria Model Shipbuilding Society British Columbia, Canada
Meetings: Second Thursday of each month; In Summer, at large model
pond; in Winter, at Royal Oak Scout Hall.
Contact: Box 45083 Mayfair Postal Outlet, Victoria, BC, Canada
V8Z 7G9
North Western Model Shipwright's Association England
Meetings: Saturdays at 11:00 am at Edge Hill Cottage, Chorley
Contact: H. R. Snape, Chairman, 10 Wendover Rd., Carleton,
Poulton-le-Fylde, England FY6 7PT
The Scale Sailing Association is the national body for scale vessels
and was founded in 1987 to bridge the void between the Model Power
Boat Association and Model Yachting Association here in the United
Kingdom. It was founded to share knowledge plus research and bring sail
skippers together more closely in a pondside atmosphere, much the same
as you enioy at your local pondside.
We cater only for scale sailing vessels as our name suggests i.e.
clippers, ketches, schooners etc of all periods and nationalities.
leaving the other two associations to cover the rest of maritime
activity. Although we do not supply plans, we do know where to get
hold of many and with an SAE or International Reply Coupon, we will
help with building and any other problems a member may be faced with.
The SSA also publish three newsletter type magazines per year full
of nuts and bolts articles written by members which are not only
illustrated but also humerous and easy to read.
Membership subscriptions are rediculously low at just <pound> 5 per year
(UK inland only) and <pound> 6.50 anywhere else in the world. For overseas
(prospective) members, payment must be made by International Money
Order in sterling only from your local Post Office please, as our
theiving banks charge us <pound> 8 per item to change and the Post Office
does IMO's for free. All overseas items are sent snail-mail "surface"
and gets to you about one day later than "air mail". (It goes out on
the next 'plane basically and costs well under half the price!).
The snail-mail address is:
The Scale Sailing Association
14 Palace Road
Crouch End
London N8 8QJ
England
NAUTICAL SOCIETIES
Nautical Research Guild (U. S.) $30.00 membership
Publishes the quarterly journal Nautical Research Journal
Contact: Nautical Research Guild, 19 Pleasant Street, Everett, MA
02149 (617) 389-2505
Scale Ship Modeler's Association
Clubs interested in becomming members should contact:
Matt O'Neill, SSMA Club Director, 1880 Emmanual Church Road,
Huntington, Maryland 20639
Society for Nautical Research
Publishes the quarterly journal The Nariner's Mirror
Contact: Hon. Secretary Derek G. Law, Librarian, King's College
London, University of London, Strand, London WC2 2LS,
England
Nautical Archaeology Society
Publishes the quarterly journal International journal of Nautical
Archaeology and Underwater Exploration in association with
Academic press.
Contact: Institute of Archaeology, Gordon Square, London WC1H OPY,
England
Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau
German. Publishes the quarterly journal Das Logbuch.
Foreningen Allmogebatar
Swedish. Publishes the quarterly journal Trabiten.
Klubb Maritim
Swedish. Publishes the journal Batologen six times per year.
Kontaktudvalget for dansk maritim historie- og samfundsforskning
Danish. Publishes the anual yearbook Martim Kontakt.
Marinehistorisk Selskab
Danish. Publishes the quarterly journal Marinehistorisk Tidskrift.
Contact: Marinehistorisk Selskab, Overgaden oven Vandet 58,
DK-1415 K&oslas; benhaven K, Denmark
Marinarkeologiska Samfundet
Swedish. Publishes the quarterly journal Marinarkeologisk Tidskift.
Sjo Samfundet
Swedish. Publishes the annual yearbook Forum Navale.
John Kopf
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 January 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 8) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part I of the FAQ.
###############################################
101) Where can I find... ?
(This FAQ is a continuation of part VI)
LUMBER & OTHER MATERIALS
------------------------
Ace Resin (John Nitka) 602-886-8051
7481 E. 30th Street
Tucson, AZ 85710
"At this year's IPMS Nationals, I ran across a vendor which
seemed to have a very good product - both the RTV rubber and
the resin. The rubber I have been getting (Dow-Corning 3110,
I think) seems to be similar to theirs, but the resin seems a
whole lot better than anything else that I have worked with.
John Roll"
A&M Wood Specialty, Inc. 519-653-9322
358 Eagle Street North
P.O. Box 3204
Cambridge, Ontario N3H-4S6
Canada
(Boxwood, etc.)
Alumilite Corp. 616-342-1259
225 Parsons Street
Kalamazoo, MI 49007
(Casting products, low viscosity resins; new product:
$PINcaster-9, machine for casting parts in plastic and
low-temperature metals)
American Art Clay Co.
4717 W. 16th Street
Indianapolis, IN 46222
("Brush'n Leaf" liquid metal finishes)
Artistry in Veneers, Inc. 908-668-1430
450 Oak Tree Ave.
South Plainfield, NJ 07080
(Veneers, including Pear, Ebony, etc. Catalog $1.50)
Belmont Metals, Inc. 719-342-4900
Attn: Phil Karmel
330 Belmont Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11207
(Britannia metal $12 + in bulk)
Berea Hardwoods (Warehouse) 216-234-7949
6367 Eastland Rd.
Cleveland OH
- or -
Berea Hardwoods (Office) 216-243-4452
125 Jacqueline Drive,
Berea OH 44017
(specializing in unusual woods, but also a good source for
more mundane species. The proprietor is fun to talk to.)
Circuit Board Supplies, Inc. 708-595-7570
820 Maple Lane
Bentsenville, IL 60106
(Coper foil in bulk)
Constantine 800-223-8087
2050 Eastchester Road
Bronx, NY 10461
(Specialty wood for crafts)
Craft Woods 800-468-7070
2101 Greenspring Drive
P.O. Box 527
Timonium, MD 21093
(Carving woods, tools, books, etc. -- free catalog)
Eager Plastics 312-927-3483
3701 South Halstead
Chicago, IL 60609
(Casting materials, resins, RTV, etc.)
Edmond Scientific Co.
101 East Gloucester Pike
Barrington, NJ 08007-1380
(Gears, motors, etc.)
Evergreen Scale Models
12808 N.E. 125th Way
Kirkland, WA 98034
(Plastic material, sheet, formed shapes)
Flagship Models
2204 Summer Way Lane
Edmond, OK 73013
(1:700 photoetched warship fittings)
Floquil-Polly S Color Corp.
4715 State Hwy 30
Amsterdam, NY 12010-9204
(Model ship scale colors)
FOTOCUT 315-662-3356
F. Hultberg
Box 120
Erieville, NY 13061
(Photo etching from your camera ready copy)
Fowler's Miniatures in Wood 916-478-8919
18175 Blue Tent School Rd.
Nevada City, CA 95959
(A dollhouse supplier, but also carries a variety of woods.
Can also do custom milling of your timber. Free wood price
list.)
Frederick W. Fawcett, Inc. 800-289-9276
1338 Ross St., Petaluma, CA 94954
(hard-laid 100% linen rigging line in many sizes)
Sample card - $1.00
Gold Medal Models
12332 Chapman Ave. #81
Garden Grove, CA 92640
(1/350 to 1/700 photoetch sets for WWII and modern ships)
Gilmor Wood Co. 503-274-1271
2211 N.W. St. Helens Road 503-274-9839 (Fax)
Portland OR 97210
(large variety of unusual woods, such as 16/4 pear, etc.)
GLOBEX (Mike Redman) 510-568-1851
6836 Outlook Ave. 510-521-5409 (Fax)
Oakland, CA 94605
(specializing in laser cutting to your plans! Has the
capability of digitizing from the plans, scaling the resulting
CAM drawings, and cutting the parts for whatever you want --
bulkhead, Hahn system, or dockyard! Also has kits consisting
of ALL parts laser cut for Hahn system, or major parts along
with wood for you to cut. Also does laser cutting for other kit
suppliers.)
H-R Products
P.O. Box 67
McHenry, IL 60051
(Manufacturer of cast naval fittings)
K&S Engineering 312-586-8556
6917 W. 59th Street
Chicago, IL 60638
(Sheet & formed metal shapes, drills, taps, dies -- Catalog
$1.00)
The Lumberyard (Dave Stevens) 216-526-2173
6908 Stadium Dr.
Brecksville, OH 44141
(Pre- and custom-cut hardwoods - pre-cut framing timbers for
HAHN models)
Details - SASE; Catalog $2.00
Northeastern Scale Models, Inc. 508-688-6019
P. O. Box 727SE
Metheun, Mass. 01844
(Laid-up decking, shaped lumber - 1/4 & 1/2 round, double-bead,
stripwood)
Catalog - $1.00
Pelican Wire Co., Inc 813-597-8555
6266 Taylor Road
Naples, FL 33942
(Nichrome wire for laying up wire rope)
Phoenix Model Co. 904-754-8522
(all types of models, some non-main-line manufacturers, 15-25%
sales)
Plastruct 800-666-7015
1020 S. Wallace Place
City of Industry, CA 91748
(Sheet and shaped plastic)
Precision Scale Model Engineering 508-478-3148
33 Harding Street
Milford, MA 01757
(Tools, gears)
Roman Barzana 813-882-4925 (6:30-10 p.m. EST)
8102 N. Sheldon Rd. #1308
Tampa FL 33615
(Fine woods for the serious artist)
Small Parts Inc. 800-423-9009
13980 N.W. 58th Court 303-558-1255 (catalog)
P.O. Box 4650 303-557-7955 (service)
Miami Lakes, FL 33014-0650
(Gears, shapes, parts, etc.)
Special Shapes Co.
P.O. Box 487
Romeoville, IL 60441
(Small brass structural shaoes -- catalog $1.00)
Ron Stetkewicz, minaturist 518-622-8311
HCR-1 Box 61B
Cairo, NY 12413
(Photo etching from your camera ready copy)
Stock Drive Products 516-328-3300
2101 Jerico Turnpike
Box 5416
New Hyde Park, NY 11042
(Belt drives for R/C)
Von Huene Workshop, Inc. 617-232-6288
65 Boylston Street
Brookline, MA 02146
(Boxwood! $3.oo/pound, $45 minimum, + postage. This is a maker
of musical instruments, such as recorders; this wood is of
excellent quality, but consists of pieces he can't use - off
cuts, slabs, pieces with knots and splits; still a great source
- our club bought 40+ lbs and resold individual pieces to
members at $.20/oz.)
Warner Woods West 310-326-5177 (eve. & wkends)
2083 Reynosa Drive
P. O. Box 5173
Torrance, CA 90510
(Dommestic & Imported woods, pre- & custom cuts - single, double
triple blocks)
Details - SASE
MISCELLANEOUS
-------------
AMW 207-633-3698
P.O. Box 384
East Boothbay, ME 04544-0348
(Custom display cases)
BK Engraving Co. 617-451-1483
373 Washington Street
Boston, MA 02108
(Brass nameplates engraved to order)
Gbishop 510-820-1986
Geoffrey Bishop
P.O. Box 874
Danville CA 94526
(Resin "dollhouse" architectural castings, but some of them can
provide sources for carved ornimental mouldings - catalog $2.00)
George M. Creations
Crane Rd. Rd 12
Carmel, NY 10512
(Museum Quality Display Cases - Free Brochure)
H&B Precision Card Models 703-281-0813
2026 Spring Branch Dr. 703-281-0813 (FAX)
Vienna, Virginia 22181-2973
(Paper model kits of ships, planes, cars, gliders, space shuttle
and dinosaurs -- catalog: $5.00 with $5.00 coupon)
H. B. Rusk Company 316-552-7381
1279 S. Minnesota
Wichita, KS 67211
(Custom oak display cases)
Hotchkiss Manufacturing 800-444-5005
484 Pleasant Valley Road 503-476-4418 (in OR)
Merlin, OR 97532
("Case Clear", cleans and glazes glass and plexiglass)
HY-TECH 301-916-2280
P. O. Box 111
Odenten, MD 21113-0111
(Fail safes, automatic light controls, water detectors,
automatic circuit breakers and voltage regulators)
Itty Bitty Builder 510-947-1572
Larry Herman
405 Kirby Court
Walnut Creek, CA 94598
(Doll house stuff, scales 1:12, 1:24, 1:48; some of the latter
might be useful for ship modeling)
J. A. Gates, Cabinet Maker 207-967-2405
P. O. Box 272
Cape Porpoise, ME 04014
(Museum quality hand rubbed cherry cases. Beautifully finished
and reasonably priced. Satisfaction guaranteed)
Jim Campbell, Artist 408-453-6173
335 W. Rosemary St.
San Jose, CA 95110
Microbrush Corporation (Mark Phillips, VP) 813-572-8444
4505 131st Avenue North #8 813-573-1028 (FAX)
Clearwater, FL 34622
(bendable applicators/brushes for reaching those hard-to-reach
places)
Graham K. Salt + 44-329-239561
6 Flamingo Court
Fareham, Hampshire PO16 8PQ England
(Research Historian - Maritime/Military Commissions Accepted)
Stitkewicz Chemical Milling 518-622-8311
HCR 1
Box 61B
Cairo, NY 12413
(Small jobs, Production Jobs, Prototypes)
United States Naval Institute 800-233-USNI
Customer Service 410-224-2406 (FAX)
Operations Center
2062 Generals Highway
Annapolis MD 21401
(best selection of naval books, discounts for members)
SHIP MODEL and MARITIME DEALERS, APPRAISERS, BUILDERS, CONSERVERS
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The Admiralty Model Gallery 409-766-1777
Harbor House #28, Pier 21
Galveston, TX 77550
(Models, gifts, restorations)
Altec Plasstics, Inv. 617-269-1400
116 B Street 617-269-8484 (FAX)
Boston, MA 02127
(Acrylic displays and custom model cases)
ALNAVCO 804-442-2323
Box 9
Belle have, VA 23306
(1:1200 w1 metal warships)
American Marine Model Gallery 508-745-5777
R. Michael Wall, Director
12-N Derby Square
Salem, MA 01970
(Fully Illustrated Catalog $8.00)
Ancient Mariner, Inc.
238 15th Street #13
Atlanta, GA 30309
(Antiques)
Andrew Jacobson Marine Antiques 508-468-6276
P.O. Box 2155
South Hamilton, MA 01982
("Americana . Ship Models . Out-of-print Books . Paintings .
Catalogs at Whim . Vintage Photos")
Antiques of the Sea (by appt.) 310-592-1752
16811 Pacific Coast Hwy
Sunset Beach, CA 90742-0023
Arrangements, Inc., Marine Division 914-238-1300
P.O. Box 126
Mt. Kisco, NY 10549
(Models)
Bill Thomte T/A, St Michaels 410-745-3080
P.O. Box 299
St. Michaels, MD 21663
(Nautical antiques)
David Air (by appt.) 212-925-7867
8 Beach Street
New York, NY 10013
(Model & marine art & artifacts)
Dockyard Ship Model Gallery 315-824-2462
P. O. Box 303
Hamilton, NY 13346
(Museum quality investment grade ship models)
John Johnson's Steel Navy Models 512-839-2134
2310 Lambros
Midland, MI 48642
("Contract models of 20th century ships costom built for the
discriminating collector. Specializing in USN Warships.
For an illustrated brochure send $2.00")
International Marine 800-822-8158
Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17294-0840
(books, videos, etc.) free catalog
Lannan Ship Models 617-451-3650
58 Thayer St.
Boston, MA 02118
("Ship Models Wanted")
Marine Model Gallery (Charles R. Hennigen) 919-261-5977
Duck Waterfofront Shops, Duck, NC
P.O. Box 8234, Duck Sta.
Kitty Hawk, NC 27949
Mystic Maritime Gallery 203-572-8524
Mystic Seaport Museum Stores, Inc.
Mystic, CT 06355
Rob Napier 508-462-6970
62 Marlboro Street
Newburyport, MA 01950-3130
(full- & half-hull ship models; model conservation and consultation)
North Star Gallery 212-794-4277
1120 Lexington Ave at 78th St.
New York, NY 10021
(Models)
Oliphant & Co. 212-439-0007
790 Madison Ave
New York, NY 10021
(Marine arts)
John Pignatelli 310-548-7618
Artist in Residence
L. A. Maritime Museum
Berth 84
San Pedro, CA 90731
(Hand custom crafted ship models built, restored, molds made)
Port & Starboard 207-781-4214
67 Johnson Road
Falmouth, ME 04105
(Antiques & art)
Preston 516-477-1990
Main Street Warf
Greenport, LI, NY 11944
(Dealer, nautical items)
Safe Harbor (Frank A. Wolz) 602-998-8982
5722 E. Corrine Dr.
Scottsdale, AZ 85254
(Model display cases)
Sara Conklin, ISA 415-467-6249
239 Sierra Pt. Rd.
Brisbane, CA 94005-1664
(Ship model appraiser)
Seacraft Classics 800-356-1987
7850 E. Evans Road, Suite 109
Scottsdale, AZ 85260
(Models -- free catalog)
Seafarer Ltd. 609-652-9491
Rt 9, Lily Lake
Oceanville, NJ 08231
(Free brochure, $3.00 for list)
Showcase Model Company
P.O. Box 470
State College, PA 16804-0470
Shuttleworth
P.O.Box 231
West Covina, CA 91792
(Maritime ephemera, models art & antiques)
Tall Ships (Fred E. Tournier) 303-922-9882
Master Model Shipwright
1435 S. Fenton
Lakewood, CO 80226
(Custom-built models, appraisals, repairs)
West Sea Co. 619-296-5356
2495 Congress Street
San Diago, CA 92110
(Nautical antiques and art -- free catalog)
Vallejo 714-642-7945
1610 West Coast Hwy
Newport Beach, CA 92663
(Art & antiques)
Vintage Limited, USA (Joan Scott) 714-249-8687
29761 Weatherwood
Laguna Niguel, CA 92677
(1:1200 w1 metal warships)
John Kopf
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 January 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 12) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part I of the FAQ.
###################################################
104) What's available on the internet?
A. LOTS!
What's available depends on what "access methods" you have
available.
WWW (access using Lynx, Mosiac, Netscape, etc.)
###############################################
{ A note about the addresses presented. When I show:
ftp://ftp.uu.net/usenet/news.answers/ship-models-faq
...that is interpreted as:
ftp:// ftp.uu.net /usenet/news.answers/ship-models-faq
^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
| | |_ the path to the file
| |__ the Internet address
|___ the method - in this case, FTP
....these are shown in this way so that people viewing this FAQ
using a World Wide Web browser -such as Mosaic or Netscape- can
simply click on these addresses to go there.
The organization follows that developed in "Maritime History",
maintained by Lars Bruzelius
}
NOTE: I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
regular basis. Thus, I may not know if they "disappear". If
you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
please send me Email at: mailto:ko...@aimnet.com ; I'll check it
out and delete the reference if it's really gone. Thanks.
"Maritime History": a GREAT!!! WWW location, maintained by Lars
Bruzelius:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/Nautica.html .
(He also has additional resources at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/ ,
...one of which is a set of pointers to other maritime sites at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/www/Nautica/Pointers.html .)
"The Information Seaway" (Clay Feldman's Seaways' Ships in Scale page)
is at:
http://www.seaways.com .
It includes a link to a Seaways "chat room", for exchange of
information.
"ABL SHIP MODELS" 'builds all kinds of scale ship models to order. All
models are from kiln dry mahogany, accurately and carefully hand built.
We have been producing models for 20 years and have been exporting to
the United States for 8 years.', at:
http://www.transend.com.tw/~stuart/abl/index.html .
Fine Scale Modeler has a home page at:
http://biochem.dental.upenn.edu/Mosaic/bill/fsm.html .
"A Guide to Maritime History Information on the Internet", at:
http://ils.unc.edu/maritime/home.html .
"Welcome to East Coast Model Center" (primarily RC models), at:
http://www.peinet.pe.ca/ECMC/ .
"RC-Sailors of Finland" (RC Sailboats):
http://honeybee.helsinki.fi/surcp/rcsail.htm .
"The World of the Vikings": This is an excellent guide to Vikings
resources on the Internet
http://www.demon.co.uk/history/vikings/vikhome.html .
"Viking Navy" home page (thoughts on Viking ships), at (yes, you
actually do use "ftp" - instead of "http" - here to access it with a
browser!):
ftp://ftp.digalog.com/peter/viknavy/vikhome.htm .
"Nautica On Line" (Nautica is the first italian yachting magazine
(over 30 years old) and Nautica On Line is the *first* italian yachting
magazine - perhaps the first in Europe - going on the Web.) At:
http://www.mclink.it/nautica .
"MC-Link Nautical Home Page", at:
http://www.mclink.it/n/nautica/index.htm ;
http://www.mclink.it/n/nautica/indice.htm (Italian Version).
"Minesweeper" (the game), at: *NEW*
http://www.linc.or.jp/~hamano/game/minesweeper.html
"National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS)", at:
http://kingfish.ssp.nmfs.gov/home-page.html .
"Kelsey Museum Educational and Outreach Programs", at:
http://classics.lsa.umich.edu/Kelsey/Outreach.html .
"Library WWW Servers" has a large list of on-line libraries:
http://www.lib.washington.edu/~tdowling/libweb.html .
Thomas Register. Yes! it's online and you can search it too! The URL is:
http://www.thomasregister.com/ .
"The Woodworking Catalog", at:
http://www.woodworking.com/ .
Stuart Wier's Great Encouragement to Shipwrights is at:
http://www.efn.org/~jkohnen/nautical.html -or-
ftp://efn.org/pub/users/jkohnen/nautical/sources.lst
The Story of the Titanic, a recapture of the basic facts about the
ship and the catastrophy. At:
http://www.hooked.net/users/tricoast , or:
http://www.ida.his.se/ida/~a94hango/titanic.chtml .
"Titanic Home Page", at:
http://metro.turnpike.net/T/titanic/titanic.htm .
"RMS Titanic 83 Years Later". The Virginia Newspaper Project examines
the news; covering the sinking of RMS Titanic, April 14, 1912; at:
http://www.lib.virginia.edu/cataloging/vnp/exhibit.html .
"Canadian Maritimes '95" - A cruise of the schooner Black Pearl, the
ketch Christobal, the frigate Rose, and other ships northwards via the
Canadian Maritimes, at:
http://www.image-earth.com .
The rec.models.scale FAQ (the non ship-specific version) is archived at:
http://www.wpi.edu/~elmer/model_faq.html .
"rec.models.scale Home Page", at: *NEW*
http://meteor.anu.edu.au/~dfk/scale_model.html /
For those of you who might be interested, there is now a WWW page
devoted to R/C Combat. Page already contains some pictures, and a FAC.
At:
http://www.glue.umd.edu/~nblattau .
RC Model Ship Combat images on-line. At:
http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/Fils_RC.html .
"Model Boats", (under construction) at:
http://www.bendigo.net.au/~jstein/mboat.html .
"Waterline", Web page devoted entirely to the art of building model
watercraft (under construction) at: *NEW*
http://www.geopages.com/Hollywood/1401/waterlin.html .
Pointers to sites of maritime interest
======================================
"Sailing in France" at:
http://www.res.enst.fr:80/~dubois/ .
"Information on ports", at:
http://www.achilles.net/~cmacd/marine.html .
"The International Guild of Knot Tyers at:
http://fourier.dur.ac.uk:8000/~dds8sgg/SCOUTING/IGKT.html .
"The Knotting Dictionary of Kannet", at:
http://www.ida.his.se/ida/~jan/knopar.eng.html .
"The Miramar" life on board the motor vessel Miramar sailing in the
Pudget Sound. at:
http://www.seanet.com/Users/deanl/miramar.html .
"The NetSailor" a Virtual Boating Environment. at:
http://www.saic.com/employee/davidb/netsailor.html .
"The Pirate Page" at:
http://www2.ecst.csuchico.edu/~beej/pirates/piratepage.html .
"Age of Discovery Web": Renaisance-period Nautical information, and
links to other sites, at:
http://www.synergy.net/Piazza/SeaLore/sealore.html .
A new exhibition at the "Peabody Essex Museum", Salem, MA, USA,
September 14 through December 31, 1995.
http://www.star.net/salem/pem/
"Marine Paintings & Drawings". A marvellous collection of 80 marine
paintings from the collections of the Essex Peabody Museum, Salem, MA,
USA. These pictures are well-known to anyone who have studied the
beautiful catalogues of the collection by the Brewingtons and P.C.F.
Smith. At:
http://www.star.net/salem/pem/maritm3.htm
"The S. S. Canadiana Preservation Society, Inc", at:
http://www.msen.com/~pwmeek/can/canadiana.html .
"Windermere Steamboat Museum", at:
http://newton.otago.ac.nz:808/peterhtdocs/steamboat.html .
Miscellaneous
=============
"The Antique and Classic Boat Society", North West Chapter (of USA).
At:
http://www.halcyon.com/pford/acbsx.htm .
"The American Sail Advancement Program (ASAP)". Information on the new
St. Petersburg ( Florida) Sail Expo trade show, November 2-5, 1995. At:
http://www.paw.com/sail/ASAP/ .
"The Cutty Sark Tall Ships Race:, at:
http://www.ftech.co.uk/~channel/wfest/pages/tsgall.htm .
"CyberCruising on San Francisco Bay", at:
http://www.microtech.com/cybercruise .
"Epcom Communications", a maritime recording studio, at:
http://www.cygnus.nb.ca/epcom//index.html .
"Guillemot Kayaks". Kayak building information includes information on
strip building and stitch and glue, and traditional (baidarka)
techniques from the New England area. The primary emphasis is on sea
kayaks. Also information and pictures from Gail Ferris about paddling
in the arctic. At:
http://www.mindport.net/~schade/Kayak.html .
"MS Estonia disaster", at:
http://www.viabalt.ee/News/sos/ .
"Fishmeal" homepage, at:
http://www.well.com/www/pk/fishmeal.html .
"Great Circle Distance Calculator" at:
http://warpig.cati.csufresno.edu/cs150.html .
"Interactive Marine Observations". A visual interface to the lastest
worldwide marine weather information being reported by automated
weather stations. At:
http://thunder.met.fsu.edu/~nws/buoy/ .
"International Council for the Exploration of the Sea", at:
http://www.ices.inst.dk/ .
"International maritime signal flags", at:
http://155.187.10.12/flags/signal-flags.html ,
and their meaning, at:
http://155.187.10.12/flags/signal-meaning.html .
"International Sailing Page", mainly a jump-list to other well-known
sites. At:
http://www-engr.uvic.ca/~jlsmith/sailingindex.html .
"Museum Information"; at Oxford, UK; links to (general) museums, at:
http://www.comlab.ox.ac.uk/archive/other/museums/info.html .
"Metal Web News" (Metal-working stuf, including that FAQ), at: *NEW*
http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/index.html .
"Nauticus" Norfolk Waterfront Development at:
http://www.nauticus.org/Nauticus/nauticus.html .
"Guide to Museums and Cultural Resources on the Web"; at Natural
History Museum of Los Angeles County; links to (general) museums, at:
http://www.usc.edu/lacmnh/webmuseums .
"King RC Online Hobby Shop", at:
http://www.twinds.com/kingrc/kingrc.htm .
"Bill's Lighthouse Getaway". This travelog of US east and west-coast
lighthouses now includes over 40 lights, plus other info for the
lighthouse fanatic. At:
http://www.lib.utk.edu/lights.html .
"Larry Barker's Boating Page", at:
http://www.teleport.com/~lgbarker/boating.html .
"Liners & Transatlantics", despite the title only pointers to other
places.
http://s2.iway.fr/staff/jcpatat/infos/liners.html .
"Maritime HomePage", at:
http://www.webcom.com/~maritime/welcome.html .
"Miniature Ship Models", at:
http://biochem.dental.upenn.edu/Mosaic/bill/navmod24.html .
"The Miramar," life on board the motor vessel Miramar sailing in
the Pudget Sound. At:l
http://www.seanet.com/Users/deanl/miramar.htm .
"Aguanaut", at:
http://bighorn.terra.net/aquanaut/ ; and:
"The Nautical Art Home Page". Empty so far. At:
http://bighorn.terra.net/artonline/aol/naut.html .
"Det Norske Veritas", a maritime classification society established
1864, at:
http://www.dnv.no/Welcome.html .
"The Poseidon Project", at:
http://velox.stanford.edu/hellas/MailTo_poseidon.html .
Reality Software (mailto:ben...@pipeline.com) has a couple of samples
of a Screen saver; "Tall Ships 1" and "Classic Sailboats", respectively,
at:
http://www.maine.com:80/reality/tallshps.html ; and:
http://www.maine.com:80/reality/sail.html .
"Welcome to Salem, Massachusetts", at:
http://www.star.net/salem/default.htm .
"The Scale Models Forum", at: *NEW*
http://www.startext.net/interact/models.htm
"The Semaphore Flag Signalling System.", at:
http://155.187.10.12/flags/semaphore.html .
"The Steamships of Stockholm", at:
http://sics.se/~jussi/steamer.html .
"Tri-Coast Marine" at:
http://www.hooked.net/users/tricoast/ .
"Ron Ginger's Home Page" A Model Boat builder. Also information on the
"Traditional Small Craft Association", "TSCA of Peabody Museum" and
"North America Model Engineer Show". At:
http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger/
Books and Book Shops
====================
"Stephen's Home Page", mostly pointers to other well known sites. at:
http://gpu.srv.ualberta.ca/~sjones/index.html .
"The Commodore", by Patrick O'Brian. Chapter One. At:
http://freeside.princeton.edu/commodore.html .
"Databoat", boat plans and marine related books. At:
http://www.databoat.com .
"The entire Fernhurst Books catalog". at:
http://www.paw.com/sail/Fernhurst .
"Nautical Brass", a bimonthly illustrated magazine for the collector's
of nautical antiques.
http://www.supernet.net/frankentech/interchange/nbrass.htm .
"Nautical Fiction List". at:
http://www.efn.org/~jkohnen/nautical/nautfic.lst , or:
ftp://efn.org/pub/users/jkohnen/nautical/nautfic.lst .
"Warsash Nautical Bookshop", at:
http://www.aladdin.co.uk/wnbooks/ .
Sailing Ships
=============
"Age of Sail Page" at:
http://www.cs.yale.edu/HTML/YALE/CS/HyPlans/loosemore-sandra/sail.html .
"Angelo Mascaro Sailing Page" at the following url:
http://www.inrete.it/vela/vela.html
English readers might prefer the following:
http://www.inrete.it/vela/sail.html
"Armada de la Libertecute" sail training ships at Rouen, France,
celebrating the 50th anniversary of the D-Day." at:
http://www.cnam.fr/Images/Armada/ .
"A History of Ships Named Enterprise", at:
http://www.ee.umanitoba.ca/~djc/startrek/SNE.html .
"The Continental Sloop Providence Unofficial Home Page", at:
http://shakti.trincoll.edu:80/~jconstan/providence.html .
"BREST 96" The international meeting of ships and sailors,
13 to 20 July 1996. at:
http://www.enst-bretagne.fr:3000/anglais/Home_page_gb.html .
"The Marco Polo reconstruction project" at:
http://www.cygnus.nb.ca/epcom/marcopolo/project.html .
"Sailing Page", at:
http://community.bellcore.com/mbr/sailing-page.html .
"Sail Training Association (STA)" at:
http://www.soton.ac.uk/~sta1/ .
"Salem Builds a Tallship". A re-construction of the Friendship built
in Salem 1797. At:
http://www.star.net/salem/tallship.htm .
"Bluenose II Preservation Trust", at:
http://fox.nstn.ca/~rschofie/bluenoseII.html .
"HMS Bounty", at:
http://www.pictac.com/~jack/bounty.html .
"Carrie E.Phillips" (Schooner, 1887) of Provincetown, at:
http://www.cris.com/~Davemoo/schooner.html .
"Lady Washington". Revisiting Our [American] Maritime Heritage. A
reconstruction of the 1788 brig Lady Washington, which was launched in
1989, is operated by the Grays Harbor Historical Seaport, Aberdeen, WA; at:
http://w3.thegroup.net/~eol/ladywash.html .
"The three-masted schooner Linden", of Mariehamn, Aland (Finland), at:
http://www.aalnet.aland.fi/Hotell/Linden .
"The Maritime Hertitage Alliance" The Madeline is a reconstruction of a
mid 19th century fore and aft schooner built by the non-profit
organisation the Maritime Heritage Alliance, Traverse City, MI, in 1990.
At:
http://ns1.win.net/~torresen/madeline.htm .
"Sailing with the Pride of Baltimore II", at:
http://cvinet.com/pride .
"Thames Barge - Marie May". The restoration of a Thames Barge built by
Hutsons of Maidstone in 1920, at:
http://www.aladdin.co.uk/sihe/mariemay.htm .
"The SS Cherokee Belle", a place for Steamboat Buffs and Mark Twain
fans to share stories and information, at:
http://www.acy.digex.net/~capnmark/home.html .
:The Tugboat Page", restoration of the Wildflower, at:
http://ubmail.ubalt.edu/~bpumphrey/tug.htmlx .
Boat and Ship Building
======================
A collection of links on this subject can be found at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/Pointer/Shipbuilding.html .
Maritime Museums and Research Projects
======================================
"Center for Wooden Boats" at:
http://www.eskimo.com/~cwboats .
"Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum" at:
http://www.washcoll.edu/Museum/bay.html .
"Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic", Lunenburg, NS, Canada. At:
http://rs6000.nshpl.library.ns.ca./nsmuseum/fma.html .
"Florida Underwater Archaeological Preserves", at:
http://199.44.58.12/dostate/dhr/bar .
"Hall of American Maritime Enterprise" (Smithsonian), at:
http://www.si.edu/organiza/museums/nmah/homepage/docs/marit19.htm .
Index to underwater archaeology resources on the Internet, with some
very useful information about Scuba diving and other underwater
archaeology. Its URL is:
http://fiat.gslis.utexas.edu/~trabourn/underwater.html
"Little Salt Spring Underwater Archaeology Project" (In Florida), at:
http://www.rsmas.miami.edu/groups/lss.html .
"L'archaeologie sous les mers, techniques et recherches" une exposition
de la Mission de la recherche et de la Maison des sciences de l'homme au
Muse; archeologique de Nice-Cimiez du 27 mai au 4 septembre 1994 ey ai
siege central du CNRS du 14 novembre au 7 decembre 1994. (The french
ministry of culture is pleased to announce a virtual exhibition on the
Web dedicated to sub-marine archeology.) At:
http://www.culture.fr/culture/archeosm/archeosm.htm .
"Mariner's Museum" (Newport News, VA), at:
http://www.seva.net/sevanet/branch/region/mari_museum/ .
"Maritime Museum of the Atlantic", Halifax, NS, Canada. At:
http://rs6000.nshpl.library.ns.ca./nsmuseum/mma.html
"Detailed Contents for the Mil-Hist Site", "American Civil War", at:
http://kuhttp.cc.ukans.edu/history/milhst/toc.html#civwar .
"Nautical Archaeology Program at Texas A&M University and the *NEW*
Institute of Nautical Arhcaeology", at:
http://nautarch.tamu.edu .
"North Carolina Maritime Museum", at:
http://www.agr.state.nc.us/maritime/index.htm .
SeaLore is the Internet homeport for the Mary Rose Virtual Maritime
Museum, Portsmouth, England the tallship "HMS" Rose, a working example
of a 18th c. British navy frigate. HMS Rose was recently featured in
a two page spread in the July 3rd issue of Forbes magazine. It's at:
http://www.synergy.net/SeaLore/sealore.html , or at:
http://www.synergy.net/homeport.html .
"Shipbuilding on the Delaware" an Exhibition at the Franklin Institute
Science Museum. Nothing much here yet. At:
http://sln.fi.edu/tfi/exhibits/ships.html .
"Hart Nautical Collection" at MIT, Cambridge, MA, USA. At:
http://web.mit.edu/museum/www/collections/hart.html .
"Guide to Historic Ship Wrecks" in Great Britain. Descriptions of 41
wreck sites designated under the Protection of Wrecks Act of 1973. At:
http://www.cru.uea.ac.uk/ukdiving/misc/deswreck.htm .
Michael Dun at the Scottish Institute of Maritime Studies has links to
lists of maritime museums and other information, data on Maritime Fife
in Scotland, and examples of Letters of Marque.
http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_sa/personal/md4/index.html .
"The Steamer William G. Mather Museum" (Cleveland, Ohio). An excellent
presentation of this museum. Includes links to other Great Lakes sites.
At:
http://little.nhlink.net/wgm/wgmhome.html .
"Underwater Shipwreck State Parks and Historic Sites", at:
http://www.indiana.edu:80/~scuba/project.html
"Statens Sjohistoriska Museum", Stockholm. The National Maritime Museum
of Sweden. At:
http://www.telemuseum.se/museer/SSHM/Home.HTML .
"Three of Facets Maritime Archaeology: Society, Landscape and Critique"
by Anthony Firth, University of Southampton. At:
http://avebury.arch.soton.ac.uk/Research/Firth/ .
"U.S. Naval Academy Museum", Annapolis, MD. At:
http://www.nadn.navy.mil/preble.html .
"The "Wasa" Museum", Stockholm. At:
http://www.sunet.se/stockholm/museums/vasa/vasa.html .
"The Western Australian Maritime Museum" this server is still at an
experimental stage. This site is currently overloaded with graphics
which together with a *slow* link gives poor performance. With lots of
info on the Maritime Museum, Dutch and other shipwrecks in this corner
of the globe, and on the Departments of Maritime Archaeology and of
Maritime History in Western Australia, as well as hypertext links
to other sites. At:
http://mm.wa.gov.au/Museum.html .
"Underwater Archaeology", at: *NEW*
http:/www.brown.edu/Research/Underwater_Archaeology/bfd/ .
A related site for "The Australian Institute for Nautical Archaeology"
is at:
http://mm.wa.gov.au/Museum/aima/Bulletin18_2/Index.html .
"Velkommen til Nationalmuseet", The National Museum of Denmarh, at:
HTTP://WWW.NATMUS.MIN.DK/ .
Boating
=======
A collection of links on this subject can be found at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/Pointer/Boating.html .
Yachting
========
A collection of links on this subject can be found at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/Pointer/Yachting.html .
There's also subsections on 'Yacht Clubs', 'Individual Classes', 'Power
Boats, 'Races', and on 'Yachts, Boats and equipment for sale'.
Research Ships
==============
"The cruise A23 of the World Ocean Circulation Experiment (WOCE)" at:
http://www.mth.uea.ac.uk/ocean/a23/welcome.html
The Marine Tech group of Oregon State University College of Oceanographic and
Atmospheric Sciences has brought up a new Mosaic Home Page for their ship R/V
WECOMA. It is available at:
http://lubber.oce.orst.edu/Wecoma/WecomaHome.html
"National Oceanic and Atmospheric Adminstration (NOAA), at:
http://www.noaa.gov ; and:
Fleet Replacement and Modernization" at:
http://www.noaa.gov/cgi-bin/imagemap/noaa_collage?201,324 .
"Research Ship Information and Cruise Schedules" at:
http://diu.cms.udel.edu/ships/ship_menu.html .
"Research Vessels Services" The United Kingdom's Natural Environment
Research Council. At:
file://ua.nrb.ac.uk/pub/rvshome.html .
"US Coast Guard Research and Development Center" Groton, CT." at:
http://138.29.250.20 .
"The Alfred Wegener Institute" for Polar and Marine Research. At:
http://www.awi-bremerhaven.de .
- also, a picture of R/V Polarstern at:
http://www.awi-bremerhaven.de/Pics/Polarstern.jpeg .
Diving
======
A collection of links on this subject can be found at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/Pointer/Diving.html .
Naval
=====
"The Advanced Information Technology Branch of the Naval Research
Laboratory" at:
http://www.ait.nrl.navy.mil/rts/warrior.html .
"Combat Boat 90H", a Swedish assault boat for amphibious landings. At:
http://www.nada.kth.se/~d94-pek/sboat.html .
"Fighting Ships of Pearl Harbor", at:
http://www.autometric.com/AUTO/html/must_see.html#fighting_ships .
"Naval Surface Warfare Center" Carderock Division. Formerly the David
Taylor Model Basin. At:
http://www50.dt.navy.mil .
"Ships & Navy Homepage" maintained by Andrew Toppan
<mailto:el...@wpi.edu> at:
http://www.wpi.edu/~elmer/navy.html .
"NavyOnLine Homepage" at:
http://www.ncts.navy.mil .
"The Naval Postgraduate School", Monterey, CA, at:
http://www.nps.navy.mil .
"Edward Smyth's Shipping and Nautical Info." at:
http://boris.qub.ac.uk/edward/Ships.html .
"Ship Reunions", at:
http://www.ee.pdx.edu/~jgriffin/navy.html .
"State of the Russian Navy", at:
http://webcom.com/~amraam/rnav.html .
"Supreme Allied Commander, Atlantic" at:
http://www.saclant.nato.int .
U. S. Naval Academy at Anapolis is on-line at:
http://www.nadn.navy.mil/
(check out the Preble Museum and the Henry Huddleston Rogers ship
model collection; gallery.html), at:
http://www.nadn.navy.mil/preble.html .
"United States Coast Guard", at:
http://www.webcom.com/~d13www/welcome.html .
"United States Submarine Force: The Silent Service", at:
http://q.continuum.net/~danc/silsrvs.html .
"Ron Martini's Navy Submarine Page" at:
http://wave.sheridan.wy.us/~rontini/ronpage.html .
"U.S. Navy", at:
http://www.navy.mil .
"NAVAL SEA CADETS' WWW site", at:
http://www.tucson.com/nscc
Charters, Cruises & Cruise-lines
================================
A collection of links on this subject can be found at:
http://pc-78-120.udac.se:8001/WWW/Nautica/Pointer/Cruises.html .
##############################################################################
.....And, of course, ***these*** FAQs also go to news.answers and
rec.answers, which most sites tend to keep around for a while.
They are archived at (access via FTP):
ftp://ftp.uu.net/usenet/news.answers/ship-models-faq (.ZIP files)
-or at-:
ftp://mirrors.aol.com/pub/rtfm/usenet/rec.models.scale -or at-:
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.models.scale (.ZIP files)
-- or via WWW at:
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/ship-models-faq/
Alternative FTP sites (these tend to be old copies) are:
Europe: ftp://ftp.uni-paderborn.de/pub/FAQ/rec.models.scale
ftp://ftp.Germany.EU.net/pub/newsarchive/news.answers/ship-models-faq
ftp://ftp.sunet.se/pub/usenet/rec.models.scale
Asia: ftp://hwarang.postech.ac.kr/pub/usenet/news.answers/ship-models-faq
ftp://ftp.hk.super.net/mirror/faqs/ship-models-faq
E-MAIL:
------
If you do not have anonymous ftp access, rtfm.mit.edu can send the FAQ
to you via email. Send e-mail to:
mailto: mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu
...subject ignored, and the body containing:
help
John Kopf
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 January 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 7) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part I of the FAQ.
###############################################
101) Where can I find... ?
RECOMMENDED BEGINNER KITS
=========================
Bluejacket: Eastport Pinky, Bluenose
Model Shipways: Phantom, Katy, Sultana
A. J. Fisher: Pilot Scooner, Lark
Model Expo: Gjoa, Swift, Scottish Maid, pinky
NOTE: This list is provided by the Nautical Research Guild.
This list is provided as a service to model builders, and the
listing of the businesses does not infer an endorsement of the
products or service by the Nautical Research Guild. Specific
references can be obtained by applying directly to the business.
KITS, FITTINGS, ETC.
--------------------
ABCD Industries 410-717-4111
1320 Light Street
Baltimore, MD 21230
(all sorts of rivets. You call & explain what you need. They
will ship to you.)
A. J. Fisher 313-541-0352
1002 Etowah Ave.
Royal Oaks, Michigan 48067
(Solid-hull kits, brass ship & yacht fittings, prints, books)
Catalog - $3.00
Air Land and Sea 703-684-5118
1215 King Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
(Out of production kits)
APC Hobbies 804-973-2705
PO Box 122
Earlysville VA 22936
(General models, 3-4 week service, 25% discount, ~monthly
updates)
Arror Graphics 416-692-4921
R.R. #1
York, Ontario N0A 1R0
canada
(Canadian flags, markings)
Amherst Minatures (W. J. Marshall) 313-485-2855
1220 S. Congress
Ypsilanti, MI 48197
(scale model warships & more)
Catalog - $2.00
Atlas Model Railroad Co., Inc. 908-687-8857
378 Florence Ave.
Hilside, NJ 07205
(Free, Fantastic Layout Booklet. For free copies,
send #10 S.A.S.E. (52 cents). )
Catalog - Free(1994)
BaD Ship Models 607-638-9266
P.O. Box 214
Westford, NY 13488
(NEW ADDRESS!!! 1:96 plank on frame kits; Brochure: $2.00)
Billing Boats A/S
Gejsing
6600 Vejen
Denmark
(makers of kits which allow one to make a model with marvelous
and true lines. Some of their fittings are not that good,
however. Their kits are carried by many US dealers and hobby
shops.
I know Billing as makers of kits which allow one to make a
model with marvelous and true lines. Some of their fittings
are below my standards, however.)
Bluejacket Shipcrafters 800-448-5567
P. O. Box 425-N 207-567-3525
Stockton Springs, Maine 04981-0425
(solid hull & POF kits, brass & britannia fittings, plans,
wood, books, custom casting available)
Catalog - $2.00
Blue Water Navy 803-767-4209
P.O.Box 8421, Festival Center
Charlston, SC 29418
(resin, white metal & etched brass kits - don't know scales;
latest is ~8.5 inch Russian Alfa Class Submarine: $35.00)
Classic Warships
Box 57591
Tucson, AZ 85732
(1:700 Warships USS California, West Virginia, Detroit, Alaska.
Italian Battleships Cavour, Littorio, Zara Cruiser. New, ship
model rulers. $3 catalog. [from Todd Hoogerland])
Cleanline Hulls 403-243-6924
1736 - 49 st 403-246-0582 FAX
Calgary, Alberta Canada T2T 2T9
(Large ship kits for RC)
C H Enterprises 805-684-3673 (Eve. & weekends)
P. O. Box 31146
Santa Barbara, CA 93130-1146
(Kits, books, tools & supplies - "Tattered Ensign")
Catalog - $3.00 (refundable); SASE for current specials
Coast Guard Models 708-437-4687
110 Essex Road
Elk Grove Village, IL 60007
(Hulls & semi-kits)
Cole's Power Models (Betty Cole)
839 E. Front St.
P. O. Box 788
Ventura, CA 93002
(Marine and other steam engines, castings, supplies)
Commander Models
551 Wegman Rd
Rochester, NY 14624
*NEW* (Resin models, including BJ GAMBIER BAY)
Darnel Models +44 (0)923 673107
33 High Street
Watford
Herts
WD3 7AE
England
(Type VII german submarine)
D&E Minatures 804-468-4687
835 Holly Hedge Avenue
Virginia Beach, VA 23452
(1:96 resin subs, including SKIPJACK; Water-tight Cylinders)
Dragon Model & Pattern 206-465-2427
231 Hull Road
Grays River, WA 98621
(1:200 resin subs -- list $1.00)
The Dromedary (Lois Roth) 915-584-2445
Ship Modeler's Center
6324 Belton Drive
El Paso, Texas 79912
(Very complete supply of kits, fittings, plans, books, lumber,
etc.) Catalog - $6.00
Dumas 602-623-3742
909 E. 17th Street
Tucson, AZ 85719
(Manufacturer of static and R/C wood & fiberglass kits)
Dynamic Models
Drawer C
Port Jefferson Station, NY 11776
(Manufacturer of kits & fittings)
Glencoe Models, Inc. 508-869-6877
P.O. Box 864
Northboro, MA 01532
(Plastic 20th century models)
GLEN-L Marine Designs 213-774-2585
9152 Rosecrans, Ca. 90706
(This company sells books, plans, videos, kits and just about
anything you want in the lines of boats. Catalog of boat
designs is ~$4.00.)
Great Planes Model Dist. Co. 217-398-3630
P.O. Box 9021
Champaign, IL 61826-9021
(R/C kit distributer)
Hamilton Hobby Specialists (Susan Bousfield) 905) 549-1226
236 Kenilworth Ave, N.
Hamilton, Ontario L8H 4S5
Canada
(This store serves southern Ontario. Hamilton Hobby
Specialists have been around for 40+ years and carry a
good range of boat kits (wooden and plastics), fittings
(Billing and others), tools, and books. )
Hartman Fiberglass R/C 217-795-2275
P.O. Box 86
Argenta, IL 62501
(Manufacturer of kits)
Hobby House's Quarterdeck
5622 Hwy 153
Chattanooga, TN 37343
(Distributer of US & foreign kits -- Catalog - $2.50)
Hobby Lobby
5614 Franklin Pike Circle
Brentwood, TN 37027
(Mail order hobby shop)
Howard Enterprises
P.O. Box 1387
Torrance, CA 90505
(1:20 Higgens & Elco PT kits; boat upgrades & customizing)
International Marine Exchange 215-357-2163
215 Philmont Avenue
Feasterville, PA 19047
(Kits)
JAC Models 603-778-7280
2800A Lafayette Rd. #199
Porthsmouth, NH 03801
(Balsa wood models, Coast Guard boats and cutters, Victory ship
and tugboat -- Catalog: $1.00)
Laughing Whale (Inc. Midwest Boats) == NOW PART OF BLUEJACKET!
Lindberg
328 N. Westwood Ave
Toledo, OH 43607
(Plastic kit manufacturer -- 32 page catalog)
Lone Star Models
P. O. Box 770954
Houston, TX 77215-0954
(Civil War ironclads, 1/92 cast resin with brass and white
metal parts.)
McKenzie Company 206-881-2352
P.O. Box 2766
Redmond, WA 98073-2766
(McKenzie Drift Boat model kit)
Maritime Models Greenwich + 081-858 5661
7 Nelson Road
Greenwich, London SE10 England
(Good shop, just outside the gates of the Maritime Museum at
Greenwich; catalog is 65p, but you should send a couple of
dollars + International Reply Coupons, as the cost of airmail
is high.)
Maritime Museum Models 310-548-7618
Los Angeles Maritime Museum
P.O. Box 1147
San Pedro, CA 90731
(Fiberglass hulls of warships & commercial vessels)
Masterpieces in Minature
P.O. Box 387
Medford, MA 02155
Midwest Product Co., Inc 219-942-1134
400 S. Indiana St.
P.O. Box 564
Hobart, IN 46342
("Rainbow" - America's Cup J-Boat Class Racer)
call to locate nearest dealer
Model Boats Unlimited 609-783-9163
P.O. Box 1135
Haddonfield, NJ 08033
(Warship & pleasure boats)
The Model Dockyard +44 (0)1872-222120 (Phone & Fax)
Truro, Cornwall
TR1 1NN, England E-Mail: mailto:mo...@dockyard.co.uk
Model Expo, Inc. 800-222-3876
P. O. Box 1000 717-839-2090 FAX
Mt. Pocono Industrial Park
Tobyhanna, PA. 18460-9985
(Specializes in imported plank-on-bulkhead kits, some others,
fittings, books, tools)
Model Shipways Division - (well researched kits - solid hull
& POF, fittings, books specifically covering many of their
models)
Espec. Recommended - "Neophyte Ship Modeler's Jackstay" by
Campbell, and "Historic Ship Models" by zu Mondfelt)
Combined Catalog - $5.00
Model Shipways == ACQUIRED BY MODEL EXPO!
Midwest Products Co 219-942-1134
P.O. Box 564
Hobart, IN 46342
(Manufactured of small craft)
The Naval Base 516-295-9525
558 Willow Avenue
Cedarhurst, NY 11516
(One of the few sources for Nichimo 1/500 scale Japanese
warships, and have a nice catalog; Plastic/resin ships, wide
selection, ~list prices, accessories and a few books.)
Naval Works 714-646-6746
1964 Federal Avenue
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
(1:700 resin kits)
The Naval Base 516-295-9525
560 Willow Avenue
Cedarhurst, NY 11516
(They carry pretty much all of the current-production plastic
ship models. They also list the following Pre-WWII resin kits
(some scratchbuilding is required). [from Todd Hoogerland]).
( Unlike most model catalogs, the kits are grouped by catagory,
i.e. British Battleships, American Aircraft Carriers, Japanese
Subs, etc. Scales and kit manufacturers are all mixed up
within catagories, though. Prices don't look that great, but
they do have a lot of stuff most mail order places don't carry
and the novel organization by ship type is very useful.
[from Matt Melchert]).
North River Scale Models, Inc.(Jim & Marilyn Roberts) 201-328-3833
P. O. Box 426
Dover, N. J. 07802
(POF & solid kits, cannon, linen line, brass & brittiania
fittings, re-issuing Marine Model kits - Catalog - $3.00)
Pacific Front Hobbies 206-821-2564
11804 NE 138th
Kirkland, WA 98034
(Distributer 1:700 resin kits by Naval Works; and (mostly WWII)
aircraft, about list price, wide selections, periodic updates)
Pleasant Cove Models Email: mailto:gin...@pcm.ultranet.com
17-N Potter Rd http://www.ultranet.com/~ginger
Framingham MA 01701
(Wood kits of small craft, built like full size boats. Sea Bird
Yawl, Skiff, Canoes, Lobster Boats, etc. Also made to order
cases and custom machine shop work related to model boats.)
Catalog - $2.00
Precision Scale Model Engineering 508-478-3148
33 Harding Street
Milford, MA 01757
(Precision tools, materials, lights, fiber optics, pneumatics,
motors, gears, bearings, couplings and hardware -- catalog:
$3.00 - payable to Lawrence J. Milo)
The Scale Shipyard / Warship Hulls Unlimited 310-428-5027
5866 Orange Ave. #3
Long Beach, CA. 90805-4146
(WWI-present fiberglass hulls, etc., for radio control models)
Catalog - $6.00
Select Hobby Supplies 203-633-9064
P.O. Box 723
Glastonbury, CT 06033
(Dealer kits & fittings)
Ship Ahoy Models and Minatures 617-233-6134
18 Cooper St. Boston, MA 02133
(models and tools -- catalog $1.00)
The Ship Model Shop 508-255-5373
Deerfield Lane
P.O. Box 536
Eastham, MA 02642
(APPARENTLY OUT OF BUSINESS!!! Manufacturer modern warship kits
-- Designed Fletcher for Bluejacket)
Ships N'Things 908-722-0075
P.O. Box 605-D
Somerville, NJ 08876
(R/C & Static -- Catalog - $5.00 (refundable)
Scaleships (Armand Veronico) 310-822-8945
P O Box 12131
Marina del Rey, CA 90295
(large variety of fiberglass hulls)
Scale Specialties 714-535-7486
P. O. Box 1117
Fullerton, CA
(Wargaming accessories, art prints, archival documents
(declassified) )
Catalog - $5.00
Sirmar Model Ship Fittings +44 384 263252
P.O Box 127
Stourbridge
West midlands
DY8 5XY
England
(1:96 fiberglass model of U.S.S. Farion (56" long), U.S.S.
Ticonderoga (7.5" long). [from Nick Tonkin])
Slagel Models, Inc.
P.O. Box 1639
Longview, WA 98632-7791
(Manufacturer nuclear submarine resin kits)
Squadron Mail Order Phone: 214-242-8663
1115 Crowley Drive Fax: 214-242-3775
Carrollton, TX 75011-5010
(Dealer plastic kits - ships, planes, armor; General models,
fast service, list prices, monthly updates)
SWAMPWORKS MFG 417-831-2309 9-5 CDT Mon-Fri
1810 N. Farm Rd. 197 Email: mailto:SWAM...@aol.com
Springfield, MO 65802
"SWAMPWORKS MFG. offers a complete line of warship kits,
drive gear, bilge pumps, BB cannons, and CO2 delivery systems
designed just for the sport / hobby of R/C Model Warship Combat.
A package consisting of: catalog, price list, a brochure about
the hobby of R/C model warship combat, information about
contacting club members and club membership, and a copy of the
Battling and Construction rules along with the legal ship list
of the INT'L R/C WARSHIP COMBAT CLUB. is available for $6.00.)
Thoroughbred Figures
3833 Buckhorn Place
Virginia Beach, VA 23456
(1:600 white metal Civil War ironclads & ships)
Tower Hobbies 800-637-6050
P.O. Box 9078 800-637-4989 (order asst)
Champaign, IL 61826-9078
(Mail order hobby shop)
Valley Plaza Hobbies 702-887-1027
2211 Mouton Drive 702-887-1027 (FAX)
Carson City, NV 89706-0471
(Model ship kits and supplies)
Catalog - $3.00
VOCO MARINE MODEL
355 Barrington Ridge
Painesville, OH 44077
(Has released 1/87 (HO) scale kits of a Flush Deck 700 footer
and a 450' tanker in the past.)
Westbourne Model Centre 0202-763480
41 Seamoor Road 0202-763480 (FAX too)
Westbourne
Bournemouth
Dorset BH4 9AE
United Kingdom
(A UK source)
32nd Parallel 408-481-3170
P.O. Box 804
Pismo Beach, CA 93448
(manufacturer submarines, R/C)
TOOLS
-----
(Be sure to check out the FAQ for the rec.crafts.jewelery newsgroup,
as well; it's too long to incorporate here.)
Ace R/C 800-322-7121
116 W. 19th Street
P.O. Box 472
Higginsville, MO 64037
(R/C equipment)
Anchor Tools (Bill Schroeter) 201-887-8888
P. O. Box 265
Chathan, N. J. 07928-0265
(Hand tools, jewelers' supplies, Foredom)
Catalog - $4.00 (Refundable; $10 - Europe, $15 - Japan)
Blazer Corporation 212-532-1166
114 E. 32nd St.
New York, NY 10016
(micro torches)
Brookstone 603-924-9541 (ordrs - 24 hr)
127 Vose Farm Road 603-924-9511 (Cus. ser. 9-5 EST)
Peterborough, NH 03458
(Unusual tools with a number of gadgets. Nice catalog.
Brookstone has a number of stores around the country. You can
sometimes find specific items for less elsewhere.)
Calculated Industries, Inc. 800-854-8075
4840 Hytech Drive 702-885-4949 FAX
Carson City, NV 89706.
(A dimensional calculator for proportional scale modelers. The
ModelCalc has a proportional scaling key with 22 common model
scales (i.e., HO, N, G, 1:24, 1:400, +4 Custom Scales) built-in,
allowing users to simply enter the actual or prototype size (in
any dimensional format), and then find the scaled size with the
press of a button. List price of $59.95 and will be distributed
through leading modeling/hobby supply stores nationwide.)
CaRa Products 605-987-5924
P.O. Box 221
Canton, SD 57013
(R/C battery chargers)
Craftwoods 800-468-7070
2101 Greenspring Drive
Timonium, MD 21093
(Power tools, bits, knives, chisels, wood, paint, glues, vises,
wood burners and airbrushes)
Catalog - Free woodworking catalog
Dedeco International 914-887-4840
Rt. 97
Long Eddy, NY 12760-0244
(Dental abrasive tools -- free catalog)
Dremel
4916 21st Street
Racine, WI 53406
(Manufacturer of compact power hand tools, saws, sanders
-- free catalog)
Eastern Tool & Supply Co. 212-925-1006 (orders)
149 Grand Street 212-226-3749 (office)
New York, NY 10013 212-925-1010 (Fax)
(call for catalog)
Euro Tools 913-338-3131
11449 Randall Drive
Lenexa, KS 66205
(Swiss & German tools, new extra fine files -- free catalog)
Excel Hobby Blade Corp. (Mike Hammam, Pres.) 201-278-4000
481 Getty Avenue
Patterson, NJ 07503
(Scissors, vice, blades, gouges, saw blades, etc. -- free
catalog)
Foredom Electric Co.
Bethel, CT 06801
(Flex shaft & handpieces)
Gesswein
P.O. Box 3998
255 Hancock Avenue
Bridgeport, CT 06605
(Jewelers hand tools, casting equipment)
H & R
18 Canal Street
P.O. Box 122
Bristol, PA 19007-0122
(Science, R/C batteries)
Industrial Abrasives Co. 800-428-2222
642 N. 8th Street
Box 14955
Reading, PA 19612
(Sanding tools)
Jarmac, Inc. 217-789-7290
P.O. Box 2785
Springfield, IL 62708
(small table saw, 4" disk sander)
Jim Davis
8038 Oacjard Ave., N.E.
Elk River, MN 55330
(Scale Nautical Tool Co. product line)
J.F. McCaughin Co. 818-573-5781
2628 River Avenue 800-573-5781
Rosemead, Ca 91770-3395
(These people have a good inventory of tools for jewelry
manufacturing and investment casting. A very nice catalog
for the asking.)
K. H. Lee Jewelry & Craft Tools (Kenneth H. Lee) 800-435-4966
9078 Artesia Blvd. 310-920-3834
Bellflower, CA 90706
(New & used tools and equipment, some of which are useful for
modelers)
Klein Design Inc. 206-226-5937
17910 SE 110th Street 206-226-2756 (FAX)
Renton, WA 98059
(Small scale wood turning lathe, tools & videos -- catalog:
free)
Mascot Precision Tools 201-939-6700
750 Washington Ave
Carlstadt, NJ 07072
(Small hand tools) Catalog $2.00
Micro-Mark 800-225-1066
340 Snyder Ave. 908-665-9383 (FAX)
Berkeley Heights, N. J. 07922-1595
(Specializes in tools for minature & model builders; Cat.
excellent)
Catalog - $1.00 (Free with order)
Miracle Point 800-682-4256
P.O.Box 71
Crystal Lake, IL 60039
(Pliers)
NorthWest Short Line 206-932-1087
Box 423 206-935-7106 (FAX)
Seattle, WA 98111
(tools include "chopper", "True Sander", & "Dupli-cutter")
Details - free
PanVise Products (Patric O'Rourke) 702-353-2900
1485 Southern Way 702-353-2929 (FAX)
Sparks, NV 89431
(Vises)
Paul H Gesswein & Co., Inc. 203-366-5400
255 Hancock Ave.
P O Box 3998
Bridgeport, CT 06605-0936
(cutting & grinding bits)
Catalog $5.00
Paasche Airbrush Co. 708-867-9191
744 W. Lawrence Ave.
Harwood Heights, IL 60656-3497
(AIr brushes & paint booths)
PanaVise
1485 Southern Way
Sparks, NV 89431
(vises)
Preac Tool Co., Inc. (Charlie Files) 516-333-1500
512 Main St.
Westbury, N. Y. 11590-Dept. MS
(**EXCELLENT** 4"x6" table saw, small clamps, new thickness
sander) Catalog - SASE
Proedge 201-764-1120
Maple Grange Road
P.O. Box 888
Vernon, NJ 07462
Progress Machine & Tool Corp. 800-227-9775
610 South Broadway Suite 510 213-489-7262
Los Angeles, CA 90014
(cutting & grinding bits)
Royal Products
P.O. Box 453
Running Springs, CA 92382
(Thickness sander - free brochure)
RDA Productions 509-292-8157
P.O. Box 68
Elk, WA 99009-0068
(various parts to convert a Dremel tool into a lathe, saw, etc.)
The Sanding Catalog
P.O. Box 3737
Hickory, NC 28603-3737
(Made to order abrasive sheets)
Sherline Products, Inc (Carl Hammons) 800-541-0735
170 Navajo St. 619-744-3674
San Marcos, CA 92069 619-744-1574 (fax)
(Sherline lathes)
Small Parts Inc. 800-220-4242
P.O. Box 4650 305-557-8222
13980 N.W. 58th Ct.
Miami Lakes, FL 33014-9727
(Small drills - down to .005 inch; "capillary" tubing (hypo
needle stock) in 18-24 in lengths; springs)
Small Parts has a lot of other interesting toys as well, including
very small wire drills (< #80 ).
Syntax Mfg & Distributing 909-589-9811
249 S. Paseo Tesoro
Walnut, CA 91789
(Micro tourches -- free brochure)
Thayer Chandler 708-816-1611
28835 N. Herky Drive
Lake Bluff, IL 60044
(New Vega 2000 airbrush -- catalog available)
Thurston Manufacturing Co.
45 Borden Street
Providence, RI 02903
(Minature saw blades)
Tools for Model Makers
3 Arlington Street, Drawer S/S
Rochester, NY 14607
(minature clamps)
Wood Carvers' Supply, Inc. 800-284-6229
P. O. Box 7500 (813-698-0123 - Inquiries)
Englewood FL 34295
(Fine knives, chisels, Foredom tools, books, sanders)
Woodworkers Supply
1108 North Glenn Road
Casper, WY 82601
(Carvers tools)
Xuron Corporation
60 Industrial Park Road
Saco, ME 04072
(Pliers, scissors, cutters, photo etch cutters -- free catalog)
Zona Tool Company 800-696-3480
P. O. Box 502 800-299-4208 (FAX)
Bethel, CT 06801
(distributer for Berna Assembler, call to locate nearest
retailer)
(This question is continued in Part VII)
John Kopf
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 January 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 9) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part I of the FAQ.
###################################################
102) Where can I find information... ?
A. There are a number of research sources available.
NOTE: This list is provided by the Nautical Research Guild.
This list is provided as a service to model builders, and the
listing of the businesses does not infer an endorsement of the
products or service by the Nautical Research Guild. Specific
references can be obtained by applying directly to the business.
BOOK COMPANIES
--------------
Anthony J. Simmonds 011-44-81-853-1727
23 Nelson Road 44-081-858-4422
Greenwich, London SE10 9JB 44-081-312-6632
England
(antiquarian, new and used books on all aspects of naval and
maritime history)
Antiquarian Archive 415-949-1593
379 State Street
Los ALtos, CA 94022
(Used books, search services)
Armchair Sailor Bookstore
Lee's Warf
Newport, RI 02840
(New and used general maritime)
Bill Corkhill 203-445-0883
21 Country Club Road
Grotton, CT 06340
The Bookstore 800-331-BOOK
Mystic Seaport Museum Store
Mystic, CT 06355
(New and used books)
Centaur Forge Ltd. 414-763-9175
117 North Spring Street 414-763-8350 (FAX)
P.O. Box 340
Burlington, WI 53105-0340
(The company sells blacksmiths & horseshoers' supplies, but the
catalog contians an extensive list of books, some of which --
on topics such as casting, metalworking, engraving, etc. -- may
be of interest -- catalog $5.00)
Coastal Forces
136 West Broadway
Bangor, ME 04401
(Books & plans)
Columbia Trading Company 508-362-8966
504 Main Street (Rt. 6A)
West Barnstable, MA 02668
(Large selection of out-of-print books from stock of 10,000
books) Catalog - Free
Connecticut River Books 203-873-8881
Goodspeed Landing
East Hadam, CT 06423
(Used and rare books)
Contact Market Research Corporation 792-256-4913
9030 West Sahara Avenue #408 702-256-7297
Las Vegas, NE 89117
(book, "HMS Victory - How to Build A Masterpiece in 1:96 Scale")
Cornell Maritime Press 410-758-2478
P.O. Box 456
Centreville, MD 21617
(New books on contemporary maritime)
Crawfords Nautical Books 703-534-8521
5520 North 16th Street
Arlington, VA 22205
Cross Hill Books
P.O. Box 798
Brunswick, ME 04011
Hallenbook 518-392-4526
County Route 9 518-392-4557 (Fax)
P.O. Box 357
Chatham, New York 12037
(Books and videos)
J. Tuttle 608-238-SAIL
1806 Laurel Crest
Madison, WI 53705
(Out-of-print and Rare Books about the Sea, Ship & Sailor)
Jean Boudriot Publications
Ashley Lodge
Rotherfield, East Sussex TN6 3QX, England
(New & facsimily reproductions on European sail)
Edward J. Lefkowitz, Inc. 508-997-6839
Box 630 (508-996-6407 Fax)
Fairhaven MA 02719
(Ships & the sea: rare, antiquarian & select reference books)
Linsey Publications Inc. 815-935-5353
P.O. Box 538 Email: mailto:QBC...@prodigy.com
Bradley, IL 60915-0538
(Specializes in reprints of "unusual technical books of
exceptionally high quality revealing skills and secret
processes almost forgotten." -- free catalog)
Nautical Bookshelf 800-249-9446
1344 Broadway - Suite 123 Email: mailto:st...@nautical.com
Hewlett, NY 11557 gopher://nina.internet.com:2550/11/on-line
(mostly modern books, but - since on-line - worth a look)
Naval Institute Press 800-233-8764
2062 Generals' Highway, Preble Hall
Anapolis, MD 21402
(numerous books, discount to members)
Pier Books (Dave & Sandy Roach) 914-268-5845
P. O. Box 5 mailto:ro...@ldeo.columbia.edu
Piermont, NY 10968
(Excellent selection of used & new ship modeling & nautical
books; knowledgable)
Phoenix Publications, Inc. 414-377-7888
P. O. Box 128
Cedarburg, WI 53012
(Publishers of ship modeling books)
Brochure - free
Rocky Mountain Shipyard 1-800-546-SHIP
590 Ronlin St. 303-434-5327
Grand Junction, CO 81504-5570
(books & plans)
St. Andrews Books 803-772-4551
Tom & Jill Bettendorf
P. O. Box 210756
Columbus, SC 29221
(used books)
catalog (77 p.) - $3.00
Ten Pound Island Book Co. 508-283-5299
76 Langsford St. mailto:tenp...@world.std.com
Gloucester, MA 01930
(books, marine art, antiques & instruments, logbooks, maps
and charts) -- catalog - free
W. Wiegand & Co.
Box 563
Glastonbury, CT 06033
(Out-of-print Maritime Books -- free catalog)
Catalog - free
Wisconsin Maritime Museum Mariner's Gift Shoppe 414-684-0218
75 Maritime Drive 414-684-0219 (Fax)
Manitowoc, WI 54220
(write for book list)
MAGAZINES & PUBLICATIONS
------------------------
American Boat Modeler (R.C.)
P.O.Box 427
Mount Morris, IL 61054
The American Neptune
The Peabody Museum of Salam
161 Essex Street, East India Square
Salem, MA 01970
(Academic)
Fine Scale Modeler
Kalmbach Publishing Co.
P.O. Box 1612
Waukesha, WI 53187
(Mainly plastic -- $19.95)
Live Steam
P.O.Box 169
Traverse City, MI 49685
(Steam Engines, including full-size and model steam boats).
Marine Modelling
Traplet House, Severn Drive
Upton-on-Severn, Worcestershire WR8 0JL
England
The Mariner's Mirror
Derek G. Law, MA Dip.Lib., FLA
Hon. Secretary, The Society for Nautical Research
Librarian, King's College London
University of London, Strand, London WC2R 2LS
England
(Academic)
Model Ship Builder
Phoenix Publications, Inc. 414-377-7888
P. O. Box 128
Cedarburg, WI 53012
Subscription - 1 year (6 issues): $23; 2 years: $43
Model Shipwright
Conway Maritime Press Ltd.
101 Fleet Street
London EC4Y 1DE
England
(English Quarterly)
Subscription - available through The Dromedary; 1 year: $36.00
Nautical Collector 703-550-6609
P.O. Box 16734
Alexandria, VA 22302
(Collectables & maritime history)
Nautical Research Journal
152 Brayton Rd.
Brighton, Mass. 02135-3049
Subscription - 1 year (4 issues): $25; all subscriptions begin
in January.
Plastic Ship Modeler
PO Box 2183
Arvada, CO 80001-2183
*NEW* (Primarily geared to resin builders, but the articles are of
interest to any warship fans - Quarterly; $15.00 US/$20.00
overseas per year.)
Radio Control Boat Modeler
P.O. Box 443
Mount Morris, IL 61054-9858
The Scale Cabinetmaker 703-382-4651
Dorsett Publications, Inc.
P.O. Box 2038
Christiansburg, VA 24073
(Woodworking & tools - dollhouse scale but useful techniques
1 year (4 issues) $22.00)
Scale Ship Modeler
P. O. Box 16149 818-760-8983
No. Hollywood, CA 91606
(mostly modern & RC)
Subscription - 1 year: $26.50
Sea History
National Maritime Historical Society
P.O. Box 68
Peekskill, NY 10566
(Nautical Heritage - $30.00)
Seaways - Ships in Scale
Seaways Publishing, Inc. 408-978-5657
2271 Constitution Dr.
San Jose, CA 95124
Subscription - 1 year: $24.95; 2 years: $46.50
Thw Egregious Steamboat Journal, Inc. 502-778-6784
Steamboat Masters & Associates, Inc. (Jack E. Custer)
P.O. Box 3046
Louisville, KY 40201-3046
(Bi-monthly)
Subscription - 1 year: $20.00
U.S. Boat & Ship Modeler
898 W. 16th Street
Newport Beach, CA 92663
Warship International
5905 Reinwood Drive
Toledo, OH 43613
Wooden Boat 207-359-4651
P.O. Box 78
Brooklin, ME 04616
(Full size boats)
Le Chasse Maree
Scop Le Chasse-Mar'ee
Abri du Marin
B P 159
F-29171 Douarnenez Cedex
FRANCE
(the French journal on traditional watercraft)
PLANS
-----
Americal Merchant Marine Museum
Kings Point, NY 11024
(Photos)
Capt. Pete Culler's Plans, George "S" Kelley 508-775-2679
20 Lookout Lane
Hyannis, MA 02601
(Schooners, contemporary designs)
Cartographic & Arch. Br. (NNSC)
National Archives
Washington, DC 20408
(Naval Plans prior to 1945)
Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum
St. Michaels, MD 21662
(Plans of local boats)
Commander (NSES-09B21)
NavalSea Systems Command
Department of the Navy
Washington, DC 20362-5101
(Naval Plans after 1945)
Computer Lofting
470 Hillcrest Pl. #5
Friday Harbor, WA 98250
(Computer generated plans)
details - SASE
Capt. Pete Culler's Plans 508-775-2679
George "S" Kelley
20 Lookout Lane
Hyannis, MA 02601
(101 traditional designs)
price list - $1.00
John Fryant Plans Service
6508 Dorset Drive
Alexandria, Va. 22310-3018
(Model builders plans for riverboats, tugs, bargs and ferries.
Illustrated catalog & price list available listing plans for
thirty five vessels. Price $4.00 U. S.& Canada; $5.00 overseas.)
Floating Drydock mailto:dry...@postoffice.ptd.net
c/o General Delivery
Kresgeville, PA 18333
(Plans photos & books, mainly warships of WWII; catalog $4.50)
Eric A. R. Ronnberg, Jr.
P.O. Box 410
Rockport, MA 01966-0410
(Boston Pilot Scooner HESPER of 1884)
Essex Shipbuilding Museum
28 Main Street
Box 277
Essex, MA 01929
(Plans for Schooner EVELINE M. GOULART, 1:48, $20.00;
P&S +$3.50)
Great Lakes Historical Society
480 Main St.
Vermillion, OH 44089
(Plans and photos of great lakes shipping)
Harold M. Hahn
1212 Gordon Rd.
Lyndhurst, Ohio 44124
(Plans of a number of Colonial-period ships, drawn by Hahn for
modelers -- Send (business size) SASE for price lists.)
Hart Nautical Collections 617-253-5942
The MIT Museum
265 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, MA 02139
(General archival plans)
Mariners Museum
Newport News, VA. 23606
(Photos, a few plans)
Maryland Silver Company 410-647-9634
P.O. Box 6220
Anapolis, MD 21401
188 p. Catalog - $9.00; Product & Price list - $4.50;
Civil War Maps Catalog - $2.50
Mosquito Boat Hobbies 619-949-9814
Bob Sattler
7173 Locust Ave
Hesperia, CA 92345
(PT Boats)
Mystic Seaport
Mystic, CT 06355
(Plans, photos)
National Maritime Museum Association
Bldg. 275, Crissy Field, Presidio of SF
San Francisco, CA 94129
(plans: Steam Schooner WAPAMA 1:96 $20; Scow Schooner ALMA
1:48 $16; monterey fishing boat WETTON 1:12 $16; + $4
shipping (US), $8 overseas)
New Jersey Historical Society
230 Broadway
Newark, NJ 07104
(Collection of plans for oyster boats of S. New Jersey)
Peabody Museum
East Indoa Square
Salem, MA 01970
(Photos)
Philadelphia Maritime Muesum
321 Chestnut St.
Philadelphia, PA 19106
(Photos)
Public Record Office 0181-876-3444
Kew 0181-878-8905 (FAX)
Richmond
Surrey TW9 4DU
England
Steamship Historical Socciety Collection
University of Baltimore Library
1420 Maryland Ave.
Baltimore, MD 21201
(Photos)
Thousand Islands Shipyard Museum
350 Mary St.
Clayton, NY 13624
(Plans for St. Lawrence Skiffs)
Musee de la Marine (33)-1-45533170
Palais de Chaillot (33)-1-47274967 FAX
17 place du Trocadero (33)-1-47550383 (documentation service)
75116 PARIS
France
(The national maratime museum of France; plans available,
including a number of plans designed for ship modelers)
This (French Navy) organisation of "Musee de la Marine" is in charge of
3 or 4 smaller museums in France like in Brest (Britanny):
Musee de la Marine (33)-98221239
Chateau Prefecture Maritime (33)-98433054 FAX
29200 BREST
Beside of this a French "Mystic Sea Port" (much smaller) is in Britanny at
Port Musee (33)-98926520
place Enfer (33)-98920541 FAX
29100 DOUARNENEZ
Interesting stuff can be found at Marseille (Cote d'Azur) which was a
Greek emporium founded some 2500 years ago. The best is to contact
Mairie (Direction des Musees) (33)-91562838
2 rue Charite (33)-91906301 FAX
13002 MARSEILLE
The Plan Shop (02) 81 2820
64 Victoria Rd, -or- 008 232 705
Drummoyne, (02) 81 3565 (FAX)
Sydney, NSW 2047
AUSTRALIA
(They are actually an arcitectual establishment (houses & the
like), but they order ship plans in from the U.K. (delivery to
anywhere in Australia). The owner aparently has a model ship
interest. )
P. Young
P.O. Box 1228
Lebec, CA 93243
(WWII Subs)
Repla-tech International
P. O. Box 461000, Cole Branch
Los Angeles, CA 90046-4146
(Plans - mostly modern navy - ask for Scale Ship catalog)
Catalog - $3.00
Smithsonian Institution
Division of Transportation, Room 5010, -or- Division of Naval History,
National Musuem of American History room 4017
Washington, DC 20560
Ship Plans
Maritime Collections
NMAH-5010/Mrc 628
Smithsonian Institution
Washington, DC 20560
(ask for The Maritime Administration Collection of Ship Plans
(1939-1970) I think it is $5.00)
Taubman Plans Service International 201-435-5205
11 College Dr., Box 4G
Jersey City, N. J. 07305
Very complete plan service, books, research info., MAP plans
- Catalog - $6.50 + $3.50 1st class or $2.00 3rd class shipping;
also has Wiswesser catalog of Warships, Liners, and Merchant
marine for an additional $1.00. Inquiries - send SASE.
Vanguard Model Marine
P.O. Box 708, Station B
Ottawa, Ontario K1P
Canada
Western River Workboats 606-836-1431
1010 Turley Avenue
Flatwoods, KY 41139
(Plans and videos for Inland River Pushboats and Barges
-- Catalog $4.00)
Wisconsin Maritime Museum 414-684-0218
75 Maritime Drive 414-684-0219 (Fax)
Manitowoc, WI 54220
(write for plan list of 19th & 20th century Great Lakes vessels;
plans are typically $7.00 per sheet)
SOURCES FOR PHOTOGRAPHS
-----------------------
*****Liners
Liner Graphics
P.O.Box 29083
Portland, OR 97229-9083
*****Steamboats
Rock Hill Steamboats
Box 402
Louisville, KY 402?
Ralph R. Dupai
Univ of Wisconsin
LaCross Area Res.
Center Murphy-Murphy Library
LaCross, WI 54601
Public Library of Cincinnati & Hamilton County
800 Vine St.
Cincinnati, OH 45202-2791
*****Tugboats
Tugboat Photo & Research
2861 Bardy Road
Santa Rosa, CA 95494
*****Naval
U. S. Naval Institute
Library & Photographic Service
Annapolis, MD 21401
National Archives & Record Service (GSA)
Still Pictures Branch
Washington, DC 20408
L. C. Van Ginderen
Korte Dykstraat 3
2008 Antwerpen, Belgium
INRO
Warships International
1729 Lois Court
Toledo, OH 43613
Real War Photos
P.O.Box 728-S
Hammond, IN 46320
SeaPhoto mailto:SeaP...@aol.com
1145 Oakwood dr.
Millbrae, CA 94030
(photographs taken on board US Navy and other vessels for the
purpose of modeler's documentation. A catalog is $ 5 US /
$ 8 overseas.)
INSTITUTIONS
------------
Caution: in most cases, these are staffed by archivists and librarians,
sometimes with little actual knowledge of the collection.
Be as explicit as possible when making requests -- "tell me
about Clipper Ships" will get you nowhere, whereas "do you
have any information on the Clipper ship 'Rainbow'" is MUCH
more likely to get some sort of response.
(The majority of the folowing sources are taken from "Naval Historical
Resources in Washington", by Dana M. Wegner, Nautical Research Journal,
V.38 No.2, June 1993.)
Ships Plans
Most existing USN ships' plans 1776-1949:
o U.S. National Archives
NNSC
Washington, DC 20408
(703) 756-6700
The only source for ships' plans within the Navy for ships built
after World War II:
o Director of Congressional and Public Affairs
Naval Sea Systems Command
Washington, DC 20362
(703) 602-1575
Plans of USN ships 1776 to about 1917:
o Division of Military History
Smithsonian Institution
Washington, DC 20560
(202) 357-1781
Plans for USN small boats:
o Small Boats published periodically by BuShips and NAVSEA
since about 1910.
Plans for USN small boats and coastal craft:
o Naval Sea Combat Systems
Engineering Stations
835 Philpotts Road
Norfolk, VA 23513
(804) 444-9160
Plans for commercial ships:
o Division of Water Transportation
Smithsonial Institution
Washington, DC 20560
(202) 357-2025
o National Maritime Museum Association
Bldg. 275, Crissy Field, Presidio of SF
San Francisco, CA 94129
o Essex Shipbuilding Museum
28 Main Street
Box 277
Essex, MA 01929
Records
o U.S. National Archives
Military Records Branch
Washington, DC 20408
(202) 501-5385
Photos and Prints
1776 to about 1945:
o Naval Historical Center
Photo History Archives
Washington, DC 20374
(202)433-2665
o U..S. Naval Academy Museum
Annapolis, MD 21402
(410)267-2108
USN ship, 1945 to present:
o Naval Imaging Command
Washington, DC 20362
Ships, yards, etc.
o National Archives
Military Reference Branch
Washington, DC 20408
Ships:
o The Library of Congress
Washington, DC 20540
Historical Data
Histories of every U.S. Naval ship until publication date:
o Dictionary of American Naval FIghting Ships, 8 volumes,
published by the Government Printing Office 1959-1981
Ships histories 1959 to present:
o Naval Historical Center
Ship's History Branch
Washington Navy Yard
Washington, DC 20374
(202) 433-3643
All unclasified USN log books:
o National Archives
Military Reference Branch
Washington, DC 20408
(202) 523-5385
Some ships' logs to present, clasified operational records:
o Naval Historical Center
Operational Archives Branch
Washington Navy Yard
Washington, DC 20374
(202)433-7230
Interlibrary Loan
o The Navy Library
Washington Navy Yard
Washington, DC 20374
o The Library of Congress
Washington, DC 20540
Other Countries
Belgium
o Nationa Scheepvaartmuseum
Steenplein 1
Antwerp, Belgium
Canada
o Marine Muesum of the Great Lakes at Kingston
55 Ontario Street
Kingston, Ontario K7L 2Y2
Canada
(Plans and photos)
o Public Archives of Canada
Map COllection
295 Wellington
Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0N3
Canada
(Plans and photos)
Denmark
o Rigsarkivet
Rigsdagsgarden 9
1218 Kobenhaven K (the "o" 's actually "o" + "/")
Denmark
England
o National Maratime Muesum
London SE10 9NF
England
(Plans and photos)
o Science Museum
Exhibition Road
South Kensington
London SW7 2DD
o The Glasgow City Archivist
Strathclyde Regional Archives
City Chambers
Glasgow G2 1DL
Scotland
o Museum of Transport
25 Albert Dr.
Glasgow G41 2PE
Scotland
France:
o Musee de la Marine
Palais de Chaillot
Place due Trocadero
F75016 Paris France
Germany
o Bundesarchiv
Wiesentalstrasse
7800 Freiburg
Germany
Italy:
o Ministero della Marina Militare
Ufficio Propaganda e Informazione
Lungotevere Arnaldo Da Brescia
00100 Roma (Italy)
o Marina Militre
Museo Storical Navale
30122 Castella
2148 Venezia, Italy
Holland
o Rijksmuseum Nederlandse Schepvaart Museum
Department of Ship Draughts
Kattenburgerpleing 1
1018 KK Amsterdam
The Netherlands
Norway
o Norsk Sjofartsmuseum
Bygdoynesvn 37
Oslow 2, Norway
(plans and photos)
Spain:
o Museo Naval
C/Montalban #2
28071 Madrid Spain. FAX 5231850. Telephone 3795299
o Disputacion Provincial de Barcelona
Museo Maritimo
Barcelona
Spain
Sweden
o Staten Sjohistorisk Museum
Djurgardsbruunsvagen 24
11527 Stockholm
Sweden
(plans and photos)
o Military Records Office
Krigsarkivet
Box 80038 S-104 50
Stockholm
Sweden
(Naval plans)
John Kopf
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 January 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 11) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part I of the FAQ.
###################################################
104) What's available on the internet?
A. LOTS!
What's available depends on what "access methods" you have
available.
NOTE: I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
regular basis. Thus, I may not know if they "disappear". If
you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
please send me Email at: mailto:ko...@aimnet.com ; I'll check
it out and delete the reference if it's really gone. Thanks.
{ A note about the addresses presented. When I show:
ftp://ftp.uu.net/usenet/news.answers/ship-models-faq
...that is interpreted as:
ftp:// ftp.uu.net /usenet/news.answers/ship-models-faq
^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
| | |_ the path to the file
| |__ the Internet address
|___ the method - in this case, FTP
....these are shown in this way so that people viewing this FAQ
using a World Wide Web browser -such as Mosaic or Netscape- can
simply click on these addresses to go there.
Likewise:
mailto:ko...@aimnet.com
...that is to be interpreted as:
mailto: ko...@aimnet.com
^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
| |_the Email address
|_tells the browser to bring up an Email window for direct Email.
}
LIST SERVERS
These are available via Email; they're essentially newsgroups for Email:
Seaways Publishing, Inc. is pleased to sponsor this multi-specialty
nautical research list,"infonaut-list", in hopes of bringing together the
talents and resources of nautical and maritime historians, shipmodelers,
nautical archaeologists, marine artists, archivists, museum specialists,
full-size replica designers and builders and all others interested in the
design, construction and operation of ships and boats. All eras and types
will be discussed.
To subscribe (or unsubscribe):
mailto:majo...@lists.best.com
In the body of the message, state:
subscribe (or unsubscribe) infonaut-list <your e-mail address>
There is also a bulletin board (it's pretty basic, more like CB radio
than the telephone, but it works! You have to click on the 'chat'
button both to send and to receive messages), at:
http://chat.service.digital.com/cgi-bin/nph-clientgeneric.cgi/Seaways#anchor
1
Questions or suggestions about the list can be sent to Clayton Feldman
at:
mailto:clay...@best.com
###########NAUTARCH IS APPARENTLY CURRENTLY OFF-LINE -- I'LL LET YOU
###########KNOW WHEN IT COMES BACK (IF EVER)
NAUTARCH (nautical/maritime archaeology):
mailto:NAUTARCH...@Santafe.Edu
....saying that you want to subscribe.
You can also access "WWW-page of the NAUTARCH-list" (currently to
subscribe or unsubscribe only):
http://www.helsinki.fi/~vikkula/nautarch.html
(Also has archives of the Nautical Archaeology Discussion List).
There is another nautical archaeology list called SUB-ARCH. I think most
people with an interest in this are are switching to it (from NAUTARCH).
It is also run on a proper list server. To subscribe to SUB-ARCH:
mailto:LIST...@ASUVM.INRE.ASU.EDU
with no subject and the following text:
SUBSCRIBE SUB-ARCH <your name here>
MARHST-L is an INTERNATIONAL electronic discussion group sponsored by
the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston with the assistance of
Queen's University at Kingston. Subscription is free, and subscribers
will automatically receive messages in their computer mailboxes:
mailto:LIST...@QUCDN.QUEENSU.CA
with no subject and the following text:
SUBSCRIBE MARHST-L (your name)
TALLSHIP (Sailing and Operation of Traditional Sailing Vessels):
mailto:LISTSERV%VCCSCEN...@VTBIT.CC.VT.EDU
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
subscribe tallship <your name>
...only.
SHIPS (current maritime activity):
mailto:ships-...@access.digex.net
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
Subscribe Ships <your name>
...only.
SEAROOM-L (discussions of the books of Patrick O'Brian):
mailto: LIST...@NETCOM.COM
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
Subscribe SEAROOM-L
...only.
YACHT-L (sail racing):
mailto:LIST...@HEARN.BITNET
....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
SUBSCRIBE YACHT-L <your name>
....only.
MARITIME NETWORK is a biweekly newsletter focusing on communication,
networking,and database news within the maritime community.
Submissions and articles are welcomed. To subscribeo:
mailto:MARITIME NET...@DIAMONDLT.COM
---I don't know if this is the same as the next item...
OTHER
There is a COMMERCIAL service called Diamond Light Ocean Services, an on-line
marine information provider. If you're interested, contact:
mailto:admini...@diamondlt.com
-- Fee is $12.50 per month, with one hour free access/(24-hour)day.
Advanced Access
===============
USENET NEWS GROUPS
##################
Note: These may not all be carried on all servers!
Check out:
rec.models.scale (english, general topics)
rec.models.rc (english; RC models)
rec.models.rc.water (english; RC models)
de.rec.modelle (German)
t-netz.modelbau (German)
zer.t-znet,modelbahn (German)
fj.rec.models (Japanese)
Useful stuff can also be found in:
rec.woodworking
rec.boats
rec.boats.building
rec.boats.paddle
rec.boats.racing
rec.crafts.metalworking
rec.jewelery
sci.archaeology
FAQs
####
Many of these groups have FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions) available:
The rec.models.scale FAQ (subjects: Colour Matching Table, Model Building
Techniques, and Information Sources) is available through WWW on:
http://www.ki.icl.se/urf/urf_scal.htm
The rec.crafts.metalworking FAQ can be found at:
http://www.paranoia.com:80/~filipg/HTML/LINK/Metal_idx.html
.. and is archived at:
http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/~metal/index.html
The rec.woodworking FAQ's can be found in the directory
ftp://ftp.cs.rochester.edu/pub/archives/rec.woodworking/ .
The archive names are:
Electrical_Wiring_FAQ_[Part_1_2]
Electrical_Wiring_FAQ_[Part_2_2]
FAQ:_Crib_and_Cradle_Safety_Regulations
rec.woodworking_Changes_to_Frequently_Asked_Questions
rec.woodworking_Changes_to_Frequently_Requested_Addresses
rec.woodworking_Electric_Motors_Frequently_asked_Questions
rec.woodworking_Frequently_Asked_Questions
rec.woodworking_Frequently_Requested_Addresses
rec.woodworking_Frequently_Requested_Tool_Reviews
rec.woodworking_Steambending_wood_Frequently_asked_Questions
FAQ's can also be accessed via the WWW. The main WWW FAQ archive
site is at:
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/FAQ-List.html
FTP access
##########
Maritime Museums: List is archived at:
ftp://byrd.mu.wvnet.edu/pub/history/military/navy/naval.museums.txt .
Navy Ships: An (IMMENSE!!) list of current ships, archived at:
ftp://byrd.mu.wvnet.edu/pub/history/military/navy/USN_ships.txt .
UK Maritime Museums: List is archived at:
ftp://mailbase.ac.uk/pub/lists-f-j/history-sources/files/maritime-museums .
"FTP archive of boat pictures" at:
ftp://dell1.dell.com/donate/boats/ .
"Pictures of the 1994 BOC contestants" at:
ftp://dell1.dell.com/pub/boats/Boc .
"BOC Picture Directory" at:
ftp://Polecat.Law.Indiana.Edu/pub/laser/Boc .
"FTP-archive of ships' pictures in Poland" at:
ftp://ftp.uci.agh.edu.pl/pub/misc/gifs/ships .
"R/C OnLine", An Electronic Magazine for the R/C Modeler (R/C OnLine is
published monthly on the 15th, or so; each issue is a .ZIP file), at:
ftp://ftp.gate.net/pub/users/rconline .
GOPHER access
#############
Nautical Bookshelf: They list how-to books, recountings, adventures,
discounts, email ordering, a key-word searchable catalog, *another*
bulletin board, etc. at:
gopher://gopher.internet.com:2550/
"Canoe/Kayak" at:
gopher://ftp.std.com/11/nonprofits/canoe.kayak/ .
"Boating Tips" at:
gopher://gopher.internet.com:2550/11/tips/ .
Greek museum list:
gopher://ithaki.servicenet.ariadne-t.gr:70/11/HELLENIC_CIVILIZATION/MUSEUMS/
MARITIME_MUSEUMS
"US Naval Fighting Ships" at:
gopher://wiretap.spies.com/11/Gov/US-History/Naval .
There is a database on UK Maritime Museums and historic ships, at:
gopher://nisp.ncl.ac.uk:70/00/lists-f-j/history-sources/files/maritime-museums
"Pictures of United States Navy Ships", The navy has a web site that
has a large (>160) collection of images on line. Earliest are
paintings or drawings, but there are photos from surprisingly early.
All ships are pre-WWII. Index at:
gopher://gopher.nara.gov/00/inform/dc/audvis/still/navy.txt
Images at:
gopher://gopher.nara.gov/11/inform/dc/audvis/still/navy .
John Kopf
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 5 January 1996 00:00:00 GMT
This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 10) on ship modeling.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with. The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.
This material should be considered copyright by the author(s). This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).
The questions being addressed are listed in part I of the FAQ.
###############################################
103) What are some good books... ?
A: What you will consider a "good book" repends GREATLY upon the
period and style of modeling you do -- a book on plastic
submarines will prove of little use if you are researching
ships of ancient Egypt.
Instead, the following list(s) are by general topic. Prices,
where shown, indicate the book is currently in print. these
are the LIST price; such books are frequently available for
much less in "remainder" book sales or as used books.
RECOMMENDED BOOKS
-----------------
"The Neophite Shipmodeller's Jackstay", George F. Campbell; Softbound,
62 pages
Probably the best basic introduction to wooden shipmodeling.
"Ship Modeler's Shop Notes", Nautical Research Guild; Softbound, 216
pages, ($19.95)
Practical book for all ship modelers; a compilation of shipmodeling
articles from the Nautical Research Journal.
SHIPMODELING TECHNIQUES
-----------------------
"The Ship Model Builder's Assistant", Charles G. Davis; Softbound, 288
pages ($6.95)
Detailed descriptions and drawings of masts, rigging, and major
fittings of American clippers and packets.
"the Built-Up Ship Model", Charles G. Davis; Softbound, 256 pages
($6.95)
A detailed guide to building a ship model, in this case the brig
Lexington (American, 1775).
"Plank-onFrame Models", Harold A Underhill, Brown, Son, and Ferguson,
1960.
Two volume set detailing the building and rigging of the Brigintine
Leon.
"Modeling the the Brig Irene", E. W. Petrejus, N. V. Uitgeversmasschappi
"Ed Esch", Holland, 1970.
"Boat Modeling the Easy Way A Scratch Builder's Guide", Harold H.
"Dynamite" Payson; Paperback, 195 pages, illustrations, photographs,
8 1/2 x 11 ($19.95) ISBN 0-87742-320-2
"Boat Modeling with Dynamite Payson - A Step-by-step Guide to Building
Models of Small Craft", Harold H. "Dynamite" Payson; Paperback, 182
pages, 280 illustrations, 8 1/2 x 11, ($19.95)
"Ship Modeling from Scratch - Tips and Techniques for Building Without
Kits", Edwin B. Leaf, Paperback, 184 pages, drawings, 7 3/8 x 9 1/8
($17.95) ISBN 0-87742-389-X
"Building Plank-on-Frame Ship Models", Ron McCarthy; 8vo, 192 pages,
illustrated, Conway Maritime Press, London, 1994 ($34.95)
"Shipbuilding in Miniature", by Donald McNarry, New York, Arco 1983
ISBN 0-668-05800-5
"Ships in Miniature", by Lloyd McCaffery, Cedarsburg, Phoenix
Publications 1988 ISBN 0-9615021-3-4
"Building Warship Models", P. C. Coker, 313 pages, illustrated, R. L.
Briant Company, Columbia, South Carolina, 1974; ISBN 0-914432-01-X.
PERIOD SHIP RESEARCH
--------------------
"Navy Board Ship Models, 1650-1750", John Franklin; Hardbound, 192
pages, 150 photos, 16 color plates($36.95)
Survey of dockyard models, their construction and function.
"Shipcarver's Handbook", Jay S. Hanna, Hardcover, 108 pages, 7 1/8 x
10 (17.95) ISBN 0-937822-14-0
Design and lettering, set-up and carving techniques, woods, tool
sharpening, finishing and gold leafing (full-size modern practice).
"Ashley Book of Knots", Clifford W. Ashley, Hardcover, 610 pages, 8 3/4
x 11 1/4 ($50.00) ISBN 0-385-04025-4
Standard reference work on knots, splicing, etc.
RIGGING ETC.
"The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritesail Topmast, 1600-1720",
R. C. Anderson, Conway Maritime Press, England, 1984.
"The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815", Brian Lavery,
Conway Maritime Press, England, 1987.
Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860", James Lees,
Conway Maritime Press, England, 1984.
"The Construction and Fitting of the English Man-of-War 1650-1850",
Peter Goodwin, Conway Maritime Press, England, 1987.
Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier", Harold A.
Underhill, Brown, Son, and Ferguson, Scotland, 1946.
"The Americal FIshing Scooners 1825-1935", Howard I. Chapelle, W. W.
Norton & Company, New York, 1973.
Covers all aspects of the "Glochester" fishing schooners and their
fittings.
SPECIFIC SHIP AND SHIP-TYPE RESEARCH
------------------------------------
"Old Ironsides - The Rise, Decline and Resurrection of the USS
Constitution", Thomas C. Gillmer, Hardcover, 239 pages, photographs,
7 1/2 x 9 1/2 ($24.95) ISBN 0-87742-346-6
"Die Kieler Hansekogge, der Nachbau eines historischen Segelschiffes
von 1380", Baykowski, U., RKE-Verlag, Kiel 1991
"The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships", C. Nepean Longridge, Model & Allied
Publications, England, 1955.
Primarily concerned with building a model of H.M.S. Victory, but
lots of useful information on Napoleonic War practices.
The Anatomy of the Ship series of books. Each volume covers a specific
vessel (list $32.95 each)
The Aircraft Carrier Intrepid
The Aircraft Carrier Victorious
The Type VII U-Boat
The Type XXI U-Boat
The Destroyer Campbeltown
The Cruiser Belfast
The Destroyer Escort England
The 74-Gun Ship Bellona
The Submarine Alliance
The Battleship Warspite
The Battleship Yamato
The Destroyer The Sullivans
The Cruiser Bartolomeo Colleoni
The Frigate Diana
The 20-Gun ship Blandford
The Susan Constant, 1607
The Armed Transport Bounty
The Royal Yacht Caroline
The Bomb Vessel Granado, 1742