help W/ oil wash
buffa...@thegrid.net
When I use oil the whole plane looks too messy. I am covering the plane
with an acrylic glosscote. When I use the oil I use paint thinner,
should I be using turpentine? How thin should I make the oil? It also
seems to turn all the paint a little yellow.
please help.
Mark Foreman
I use future floor wax as my glosscoat. Then my washes can be the same
acrylic paint. Have had the best success with Model Master. For Tamiya
as the wash, use MM acrylic thinner. Never have a problem!
Dlmathe
BBill:
I use primarily Acrylic paints (Gunze/Tamiya) and spray Pactra Gloss cote
over all... Then this makes certin that wash will not affect the
underlying paints. Another point to remember is that the clear cote will
determine how the wash will work.
- Gloss for oil streaks, panel demarcation lines
- Dull will give the dingy, stained look.
use a small fine-tipped brush to apply the wash into the panel lines, and
if you feel you've overdone it, wait until the paint starts to set, then
use a slightly dampened (with mineral spirits) Q-Tip to remove the excess
wash from the plane's surface. The trick then I suppose is to apply very
thin washes with a fine-tip brush in selected areas, thereby avoiding
changing the overall color of the plane... be prepared to use the
different cotes to achieve the desired effects.
good luck,
doug
MODEL HAWK
(overnight is best). I apply my washes. I usually use relatively
inexpensive children's water colors thinned with water and a little
dishwashing detergent (JUST A LITTLE). Other times I use tubed artists
acrylic paint which is available at most craft stores or even
water-soluble ink.
To accent panel lines (and you should do this AFTER decals are applied and
sealed with Future) I don't much worry about it getting out of the
recessed panel line. I just paint it on with about a #1 or 2 brush.
After it dries,I take a piece of old T shirt and working a small area at a
time, clean it up by holding the model close to my mouth and exhaling
heavily on it (this slightly dampens the surface). Then I lightly rub the
surface to remove wash that's gotten out of the recessed areas - it comes
up easily. Works well AND it's quicker than going blind trying to use a 5
"0" or smaller brush to keep it inside the thin lines. After that, other
washes can be applied to simulate oil leaks, etc.
When that's all done and dry, shoot your flat or satin top coat and finish
weathering with pastels (pastels don't stick well to gloss surfaces) and,
if you want, finish with a couple final "fresh" oil leak, etc marks.
However you choose to do it, good luck!!
Happy modeling: ModelHawk