Mars lander elastic questions
David Erbas-White
clone-type). What is the recommended method to install the 'elastic' in
the legs such that it can be repaired over time? Is it better to use
some other material, or some lightweight springs? I haven't begun
assembly on this yet, so I'd like to field ideas and feedback from
others before I begin building it.
David Erbas-White
Andy Eng
For some unknown reason, the elastic in my stock 25 year old Estes Mars
Lander still seems to be working fine. Dunno why...
Having said that, I'll open the bidding and suggest springs :-)
Good luck with your project,
Andy
p.s. Flies nice on a D13-4 RMS reload ;-)
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Kevin Trojanowski
intact, but they're not strong enough to hold the rocket up. I have a
Kosrox "you can build a Mars Lander from this collection, if you add a
few bits" Mars Lander kit, and when I assemble it, it will get springs
instead of rubber bands.
-Kevin
David Erbas-White
came last week, and I had some communication with Damian Kostron, and he
says he no longer has access to the laser cutting tools that he used to
make the pieces, so when he runs out, they're gone!
Hmm... Then maybe someone will be able to come out with a clone of the
clone kit...
David Erbas-White
Mark and Kersten Hamilton
Have a look at Jeff Brundt's site on the 2x ML he built from Tom
Prestia's kit. He has some really good ideas on how to do this.
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hall/4501/lander.html
Mark E. Hamilton
NAR #48641-SR
David Erbas-White
how he did the 2X one, though. This is really great work, and I'll
probably use some of his detailing ideas. But for the 'elastic' area, it
looks as though I'll have to find some good, durable, light springs
(best idea so far).
Thanks for the information here, it's much appreciated.
David Erbas-White
Tom Prestia
Mars Lander is by using rubberbands. They are very easy to use, not at all
expensive, and can be found across the country.
Having said that, the way I designed my new 1X Lander kit (yep, I have a 3.9"
kit now available) is the same way I designed the upscale kits. I use a
removeable rear bulkhead to gain access to the legs and hinge area. By doing
this you can replace the bands on every flight if you want and you can repair
any damage done to the legs. The rear bulkhead in my kit is held in plce by 4
removeable plastic rivets that I got from PML. They are perfect for this!!
Drop me a note if you want a 1X Lander kit. I hope to have the info on the
kit on my web site soon. Cost is only $35 plus $7 for shipping. Chutes are
extra ($9 for dual 18" thin-mil chutes or $5.50 for a single thin-mil 24"
chute).
Take care.
Tom P.
Tango Papa Decals
www.tangopapadecals.com
Bob Kaplow
> Drop me a note if you want a 1X Lander kit. I hope to have the info on the
> kit on my web site soon. Cost is only $35 plus $7 for shipping. Chutes are
> extra ($9 for dual 18" thin-mil chutes or $5.50 for a single thin-mil 24"
> chute).
What is a thin-mil chute? Plastic? Nylon? Mylar? Something new and
interesting?
Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Ctrl-Alt-Del"
Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://www.nira.chicago.il.us/Leading_Edge/MayJun00.pdf
NIRA: http://www.nira.chicago.il.us NAR: http://www.nar.org
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Tom Prestia
Nothing exciting, I am afraid. I get my chutes from TopFlight. Gary uses
thin-mil nylon as far as I know. And He told my wife the only color he can get
is orange in the thin-mil stuff.
I sell the chutes for what it costs me for them, in case anyone does not have
any they can use from another rocket. This helps keep the kit's cost lower and
does not make you buy something you don't need.
Tom P.
Tango Papa Decals
www.tangopapadecals.com
Tom P.
http://www.tangopapadecals.com
