Thanks.
Mike O'Neill
The water acts as a lubricant, carrying away the sanding dust. The end
result is s smoother finish and less dust in the process. Yuo do have to use
sandpaper that can handle water. Both the backing material and the adhesive
must be impervious to DHMO. The mylar and cloth backed stuff is OK, the
paper stuff is not.
Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Ctrl-Alt-Del"
Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://www.nira.chicago.il.us/Leading_Edge/MayJun00.pdf
NIRA: http://www.nira.chicago.il.us NAR: http://www.nar.org
Men never do evil so completely and cheerfully as when they do it
with religious conviction. -- Blaise Pascal
Support Freedom: http://www.indefenseoffreedom.org/
It's been a long time, but my experience with epoxy paints was that thye
sand as well as laquers.
Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Ctrl-Alt-Del"
Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://www.nira.chicago.il.us/Leading_Edge/MayJun00.pdf
NIRA: http://www.nira.chicago.il.us NAR: http://www.nar.org
This is a country which stands tallest in troubled times, a country
that clings to fundamental principles, cherishes its constitutional
heritage, and rejects simple solutions that compromise the values
that lie at the roots of our democratic system. -- Supreme Court
Justice Thurgood Marshall, 1972
Support Freedom: http://www.indefenseoffreedom.org/
Jon
"Bob Kaplow" <kapl...@eisner.encompasserve.org.mars> wrote in message
news:j+PTRj...@eisner.encompasserve.org...
Sanding generates heat, which can actually muss up plastic surfaces.
A bit of water helps things cool down.
I sand almost every plastic rocket part I use. First I use the edge of
an Xacto to scrape away the flash and mold lines.
I might follow up with ordinary dry sandpaper, to grind down the
remaining flash, but I try not to actually scratch the surface.
Then I wet sand (actually _underwater sand_, in a basin of clean
dish-water) using black (320 grit) mylar-backed sanding material. With a
little work, you can eliminate all traces of the mold lines and kill the
"phony gloss" of a plastic surface. Sanded and polished plastic isn't
glossy, but it is smooth.
Actually, I routinely wet sand balsa fins and paper tube after several
coats of primer to seal the surface. This isn't a problem, providing
you're careful not to sand through the primer and expose the base
material. One very good way to avoid sanding through the primer: apply
one color for the first one or two primer coats, and then use a
contrasting color for following coats -- I use black for the first, and
gray for following. When I see black, it's time to stop sanding that
area.
After thoroughly drying the water from wet sanding, when applying more
primer, I again apply a witness coat of black before more gray. Works
very well; I haven't sanded through on the paper body tube since the
first time I wet sanded.
--
This space temporarily vacant. Look for more wit and wisdom in the
next iteration.
Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer NAR # 70141-SR Insured
Rocket Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/launches.htm
Telescope Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/astronomy.htm
Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm
Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth
and don't expect them to be perfect.