Rustoleum wrinkling on 2nd coat!?
Jeffrey Lefstin
I sprayed on a coat of "Painter's Touch" gloss white. Went on fine over
Krlyon primer, looked great, I think "Hey, Rustoleum's good stuff."
24 hours later, I sand out some dust spots and spray another coat on...
... and I get a bunch of wrinkles! Not everywhere - mostly the really
hard to sand places.
The can says recoat within 1 hour or after 24... the only thing I can
think of is that the recoat window is a little longer then they claim.
Especially where the paint is thick. Can I avoid this problem by waiting
more than 24 hours?
The only other thing that touched the rocket was a tack cloth, but I
wiped the rocket pretty thoroughly with the cloth before the 1st coat &
the 1st coat went on fine.
Oh well.. back to the sanding board... and probably to Krlyon "recoat
anytime" for my next project. Any thoughts appreciated.
Mike Burch
Rustoleum can be a real pain in the ass! As for my experience's I would let
it sit a week in between coats. I have trashed up several really nice
paint jobs by applying the second coat too early. This paint has to totally
dry out before the second app. If you don't really need that specific
color stick to krylon. You can get a really nice finish after about 6 to 8
coats. Krylon has been much more user friendly for me.
Good luck.
Mike Burch
Berkley, Michigan.
Greg Cisko
news:efstinlay-82FEE...@news.speakeasy.net...
> Having heard all the "Don't paint your Saturn V with Krylon" warnings:
>
> I sprayed on a coat of "Painter's Touch" gloss white. Went on fine over
> Krlyon primer, looked great, I think "Hey, Rustoleum's good stuff."
>
> 24 hours later, I sand out some dust spots and spray another coat on...
>
> ... and I get a bunch of wrinkles! Not everywhere - mostly the really
> hard to sand places.
Yep... It is a feature.
> The can says recoat within 1 hour or after 24... the only thing I can
I think it should have said that you should recoat after 1-3 hours
or 4-5 days. If you don't do it within 3 hours, it must *COMPLETELY*
dry.
> think of is that the recoat window is a little longer then they claim.
> Especially where the paint is thick. Can I avoid this problem by waiting
> more than 24 hours?
Yes. The problem is the paint was only sort of really dried.
--
Greg Cisko
paint I have tried on my rockets will do this.
--
"Mike Burch" <libert...@home.com> wrote in message
news:3A483DA5...@home.com...
BULLPUPP
Mercury Redstone I received some Rustoleum painters choice for free..........so
I thought I would give it a try. The white went on nicely. Now I masked it off
the next day and sprayed the black. WHAT A MESS! Wrinkles all over but mostly
in the fillet area. I finished this rocket the day before I left for LDRS to
use as a display for my new kit. When I get more time I will sand it down and
try again. Oh well.........live and learn.
Bill Rossi
\\\///
(O)(O)
--oOO----(__)--------------
: I WILL WORK FOR :
: ROCKET MOTORS :
:-------------------oOO-----:
|__| |__|
|~| |~|
ooO Ooo http://members.aol.com/BULLPUPP/index.html
ibe...@my-deja.com
I don't care for 'Rustoleum' because it's so heavy, and I've
experienced results similar to the one you mentioned. Krylon is great
stuff and is available in a wider selection of colors. However, I
prefer 'Plasti-kote' Ultra Enamel. It's a sort of epoxy paint and
behaves like Krylon, but once it's dried you can't hardly remove it
with anything but a hammer. I used to buy it at Checker Auto Parts but
Pep Boys sells it now.
Sent via Deja.com
http://www.deja.com/
Kevin Trojanowski
application.
The paint I've had good luck with is the Ace brand, available at the
local Ace hardware store. It comes in a reasonable variety of colors
and is a LOT less expensive than Krylon, etc. I've had good luck with
2nd and 3rd coats on it, too.
-Kevin
Gordon McGrew
At the risk of enhancing my reputation as a contrarian, I will say that I like
Rustoleum (the regular kind - haven't used Painter's Touch.) I did have a
problem with wrinkling one time but I think I have the hang of using it now. My
secret is to not wait a long time between coats. I got this idea from someone
in this forum.
Start with a fully cured primer coat. The first paint coat is very light
leaving a very blotchy appearance. After five minutes of drying (70F, light
wind) I apply a second, slightly heavier coat concentrating on the thin areas.
After five or ten minutes a third, more thorough coat is applied. Finally,
after another five to ten minutes I apply a heavy coat making sure all surfaces
are left glossy wet. Then the piece goes into the shed where hopefully
temperatures will exceed 80 or 90F over the next 24 hours. The piece can then
be handled gently but I think it takes several days or even a week or two for a
complete cure. This has produced the best finishes that I have achieved so far.
The early light coats seem to prevent the final coat from sagging or running.
On Wed, 27 Dec 2000 00:14:22 GMT, Kevin Trojanowski <tr...@nospam.home.com>
wrote:
Neil Tarasoff
Oh common, Tai Fu comments on stuff he has never tried or used.
Go for it! 8-)
Neil Tarasoff
Leonard Fehskens
wrote
>I've never used Rustoleum on rockets, so I cannot comment on it in that
>application.
I've used it extensively and have had great results. But I do my recoats
within the 1 hour window. Otherwise I wait a week (weekend to weekend).
len.
Andy Waddell
half-dozen cans or so for two reasons, unless I can't get Krylon in a
similar color:
1) The Rustoleum seems to be very prone to plugging the nozzle midway
through the can no matter how much shaking you do before and during. Kind of
a PITA to be halfway through a rocket and have to go out and get another can
of the same thing because the first one plugged up. (Obviously twice as
expensive that way, too).
2) It takes a LOT longer to dry. With Krylon I can handle the rocket in a
few hours, with Rustoleum the next day, minimum. Of course both should be
left for at least a week for good curing, but the Krylon's much faster to
keep working with, IMHO.
I've always had great luck with Krylon; Len's had good luck with Rustoleum.
'Spose it's all a matter of personal taste, but I definitely lean toward the
Krylon.
--
Andrew D. Waddell
PML Online Support Rep
TRA 2043 L2/NAR 52875 L2
EMAIL: ADWa...@home.com
PML: www.publicmissiles.com
"Leonard Fehskens" <len.fe...@compaq.com> wrote in message
news:92dk43$km0$1...@mailint03.im.hou.compaq.com...
Kevin Trojanowski
guy has heard from some Andy Shecter guy that John Cato says that Jerry
Irvine says that Bob Fortune told him about Gene Constanza talking about
some guy who goes by the name of Leonard Fehskens says that Rustoleum
works just fine...
-Kevin "Neil TOLD me to do it!" Trojanowski
Chris Taylor Jr.
a second either in less than X time OR youmust wait to AFTER x time (which i
think is 48 or 72 hours if you miss the X time after first coat)
"Jeffrey Lefstin" <efst...@speakeasy.org> wrote in message
news:efstinlay-82FEE...@news.speakeasy.net...
Chris Taylor Jr.
BUT once you pass that early time YOU MUST wait until it is fully dry
Otherwise it is most wonderful paint. Very nice coating and hard to run
Nice finishes. ALthough it if you put it on too thick is may not run but it
will take anywhere from forever to never to full dry it always seems to be a
little soft for a LOOOOOONG time
"Mike Burch" <libert...@home.com> wrote in message
news:3A483DA5...@home.com...
Crussell51
Paint happens..
Chas, NAR 9790
Steven Piette
>
> I've always avoided Rustoleum after using it a few years ago for a
> half-dozen cans or so for two reasons, unless I can't get Krylon in a
> similar color:
I just want to add that the Rustoleum Metalics paint seems to be quite
different from the rest of the Rustoleum branded paints. It drys quite
quickly, wet sands well, and can be overcoated as soon as it's dry.
Make sure to shake the can well or the flakes will come out all at once
and you flock your rocket...
--
Steve Piette Applied Computer Technology
st...@simon.chi.il.US. 7N852 Phar Lap Drive
(630) 513-6920 St. Charles, IL 60175-6868
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Andy Waddell
to dry VERY quickly, like 10-15 minutes.
--
Andrew D. Waddell
PML Online Support Rep
TRA 2043 L2/NAR 52875 L2
EMAIL: ADWa...@home.com
PML: www.publicmissiles.com
"Steven Piette" <st...@simon.chi.il.us> wrote in message
news:3A4ABB75...@simon.chi.il.us...
Kurt Kesler
cruss...@aol.com says...
Maybe we should start a club...
--
Kurt Kesler
Neil Tarasoff
You left out Tai Fu. 8-)
Neil (I have NOT used Rustoleum) Tarasoff
Gene Costanza
BTW, it's C-O-S-T-A-N-Z-A. :-)>
Like that damn GEORGE, dammit!
I use Painter's Touch whenever I actually PAINT a rocket. (Mark Simpson told me
NEVER to paint a rocket before its first pass.) GOTSTA, GOTSTA, GOTSTA, do a
hair dryer or (low setting) heat gun between coats, though. Makes all the diff.
in the world. Killer coats...
METRA BOD
TRA #07107
NAR #74503
Brian Jarvis
"killer coat"?
--the walrus
Kevin Trojanowski
for $19.99 the other day. Does a GREAT job on its low setting on 3M
window seal kits...
Gonna use that puppy to help kick off epoxy when I fiberglass tubes.
Used a hair dryer last time and it helped reduce the drying time a bit.
-Kevin
Gene Costanza
heat gun, while the better 'tool', generates scads of heat and requires
a lighter touch and assurance you don't locally overheat a spot (it
could delaminate the airframe).
Here's a synopsis (assuming a ready-to-paint airframe):
-Light primer coat
-Heat and 'dry' paint throughout EVENLY (NOTE:paint is NOT dry when the
exposed part seems to be; the lower paint strata are still curing and
need a little bit of time to cure. The ROT I use is that when the
airframe seems to have returned to room temperature (by touch), I move
on.
-LIGHT!!! sanding with 320 or higher sandpaper. Although I don't
necessarily recommend it, I've laid three light coats of primer and two
coats of color on a rocket without sanding and it looked pretty
spankin'. In my guesstimate, sanding between coats may lend to more
longevity. But it can be done otherwise.
-Repeat as many (or few) primer coats with a subsequent 'curing' cycle
of even heat.
-After last coat of primer allow to sit at room temp. for several hours,
then lightly sand with fine sandpaper, wipe with a tack cloth (a clean
cotton T you ain't usin' no mo' follows the tack cloth nice, too) and
spray on a light color coat.
-Do alternating color coats/heat curing cycles until you like how it
looks or you're sick of doing it.
--
TRA #07017 L2
NAR #74503 L2
METRA BOD
Mark Simpson
It's nice to know that you listened to my painting (or lack thereof) advice. Now,
to really surprise you, I do paint...occasionally, and I PREFER Rustoleum to Krylon
every time. No contest. Rustoleum hides better, runs less, give higher gloss with
less work and dries to a harder shell. What else could you ask from a rattle can?
;-)
Mark Simpson
NAR 71503 Level II
BTW, I just finished covering my in-process Bruiser EXP "Woody" in wood-grained
contact paper. It looks great.
Mark Simpson
It's nice to know that you listened to my painting (or lack thereof) advice. Now,
to really surprise you, I do paint...occasionally, and I PREFER Rustoleum to Krylon
every time. No contest. Rustoleum hides better, runs less, give higher gloss with
less work and dries to a harder shell. What else could you ask from a rattle can?
;-)
Mark Simpson
NAR 71503 Level II
BTW, I just finished covering my in-process Bruiser EXP "Woody" in wood-grained
contact paper. It looks great.
Lewis Garrow
like better are automotive lacquers - but they are more expensive and more
toxic.
now how do you paint the contact paper.......8^D
Mark Simpson wrote in message <3A526E1C...@home.com>...
Steven Piette
Since you follow Mark's painting system, when do you apply the kitty litter?
L.C.
(20 minutes, 2 hours?) or not within about 48 hours. Wrinkling
is the price for nonconformance. It's a pain.
-Larry C.
Bruce Kirchner
>Since you follow Mark's painting system, when do you apply the kitty litter?<
Actually, that's one of my techniques, Steve. Interesting texture.
--
Bruce Kirchner
TRA L2 #5888 NAR #69850
Michigan Team 1 HUVARS
Visit My Rocketry Home Page - http://members.aol.com/balthezar/index.html
Proud Gun Owner!
Steven Piette
>
> Steve Piette wrote:
>
> >Since you follow Mark's painting system, when do you apply the kitty litter?<
>
> Actually, that's one of my techniques, Steve. Interesting texture.
How quickly the memory goes. I couldn't quite remember if it was you or Mark.
So you say Mark doesn't actually drop his paint jobs in a box of kitty litter
<(:-)
markws...@my-deja.com
Besides, how on earth would I get such realistic wood-like appearances
on my rockets using paint? Don't answer, it was a rhetorical question.
:-)
I am considering doing a 5.5" diameter rocket using wood veneer in
place of fiberglass and contact paper. Imagine a high performance wood-
grained Phoenix.......... I can see it now.....
Mark Simpson
NAR 71503 Level II
In article <92u0m5$8a7$1...@bob.news.rcn.net>,
markws...@my-deja.com
That would be Bruce. Mine just look like they've been dragged through
the litter box because I hate filling, sanding and painting. <bg>
Mark Simpson
NAR 71503 Level II
In article <3A533B61...@simon.chi.il.us>,
Lewis Garrow
markws...@my-deja.com wrote in message <92vn66$c67$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>...